gf'by'W'G- J?cTmi;m,TirKW-"^t^Xfe"m  a.1>rjwmg'by-E.3ain.tin  . 


^/i4^ 


TWE^iTY  YEARS 


lEOTJI^D  THE  ^yOELD, 


BY 

JOHN    GUY   VASSAR. 


NEW  YORK: 
RUDD  &    CARLETON,  130  GRAND  STREET. 

M  DCCC  LXI. 


^0 

vr. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  In  the  year  eighteen  hundred  and  sixty-one,  by 

JOHN     GUY      VASSAE 

In  the  Clerk's  office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  Southern  District  of 

New  York. 


B.   CRAIGHEAD, 
Printer,  Stereotyper,  and  Electrolyper, 

daiton  iSuilliing, 

81,  83,  and  85  Centre  Street. 


MATTHEW    VASSAR,     ESQ., 

FOUNDER   OF    THE    VASSAR    FEMALE    COLLEGE,    AT    PO0GHKEEPSIE, 
WHOSE  FRIENDSHIP  AND  COUNSEL 

HAVE   BEEN   AMONG   THE   CUIEF  PLEASURES   OF  MY  LITE, 

Qltfse  3Lclltrs 

AKE  AFFECTIONATELT   AND   RESPECTFULLY 

DEDICATED. 


y^.^ 


^ 


PREFACE. 


Early  in  life  the  author  of  these  letters  suffered  from  ill- 
health,  and  necessity  obliged  him  to  seek  more  genial  climes 
in  order  to  escape  the  rigors  of  our  northern  winters.  Duty 
towards  his  only  brother  and  a  beloved  uncle  induced  him  to 
sketch  his  travels,  and  keep  them  advised  of  his  movements. 
His  letters  passing  into  the  hands  of  kind  friends,  for  perusal, 
led  to  further  inquiries  ;  and  demands  for  publication  in  a  weekly 
paper  in  his  native  city,  were  the  result. 

He  has  always  hesitated  to  come  before  the  Public,  although 
constantly  solicited  and  urged  by  his  friends  to  do  so,  as  a  duty 
he  owed  to  society ;  at  length,  through  constant  importuning, 
and  to  avoid  the  clamors  of  those  he  loves  and  esteems,  he  has 
concluded  to  accede  to  their  wishes.     This  book  is  the  result. 

Travelling  becomes  a  passion  with  some,  and  in  this  instance, 
a  decided  one.  Necessity  at  first,  with  improvement  in  health, 
and  finding  himself  better  on  the  move  than  when  quiet,  sight- 
seeing and  obtaining  general  information  became  more  and  more 
desirable. 

After  having  seen  every  State  and  Capital  in  his  own  country, 
his  desire  was  to  visit  every  Capital  in  Europe.  After  having 
seen  the  antiquities  and  works  of  art  of  Italy,  Grreece,  and  Tur- 
key, his  ambition  led  him  to  see  the  older  objects  of  Egypt  and 
Asia  Minor.  Then  came  the  desire  to  visit  the  Celestial  Empire, 
and  the  East  Indian  world. 

The  West  Indian  Islands  brought  a  disposition  to  see  those 
of  the  Pacific,  and  those  of  the  Mediterranean,  the  Levant,  and 
the  Polynesian,  Canary,  Cape  de  Verde,  Azores.    North  America, 


VI  PREFACE. 

including  the  Canadas,  having  been  seen,  South  America  in  all 
parts  could  not  be  neglected.  Northern  Africa,  Egypt,  Syria, 
Algeria,  and  Morocco  had  been  visited ;  but  the  western  and 
south-western  coast  of  Africa,  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  demanded 
their  share  of  effort  and  exposure.  When  in  China,  he  desired 
to  visit  Japan,  but  Commodore  Perr}'-  had  not  yet  made  a  treaty. 
While  at  Singapore,  he  wished  to  embark  for  Australia ;  but  no 
opportunity  offering  during  the  typhoon  season,  he  was  obliged  to 
renounce  the  idea.  Last  Spring  he  made  an  attempt  to  get 
around  from  the  south  coast  of  Africa,  but  without  success.  Had 
he  succeeded,  his  twenty-one  years  of  travel  would  have  probably 
closed  his  extended  wanderings,  as  the  whole  world  would  have 
been  seen,  large  portions  of  it  having  been  repeatedly  visited. 

He  has  great  reason  to  be  thankful  to  the  Almighty  for  his 
preservation  of  life  and  health.  Surrounded  by  dangers  of 
every  name  and  nature,  while  scores  of  his  companions  have 
been  swept  off  by  shipwreck,  cholera,  fever,  assassins,  and  bar- 
barous tribes  of  savages,  or  Indians,  he  has  passed  unscathed 
and  unharmed. 

J.  G.  V. 


CONTENTS. 


LETTER 

I.  Havana,     . 
II.  Matanzas,  . 
III.  Balize, 
lY.  Mobile, 

V.  Trip  from  Alabama  throuoh  Florida  and  Georgia, 
VI.  Trip  from  Augusta,  Georgia,  to  New  York, 
VII.  A  Trip  to  Europe, 
VIII.  Naples,      . 
IX.  Messina,     . 
X.  Catania,'    . 
XI.  Rome, 
XII.  Vienna,    ,  . 

XIII.  Pestii, 

XIV.  Prague, 
XV.  Dresden, 

XVI.  "Wittemberg, 
•      XVII.  Berlin, 

XVIII.  Frankfort-ox-the-Maine, 
XIX.  Cologne,     . 
XX.  Amsterdam, 
XXI.  Rotterdam, 
XXII.  Milan, 

XXIII.  Trieste,      . 

XXIV.  Athens,     . 
XXV.  Athens, 

XXVI.  Constantinople, 
XXVII.  Smyrna,     . 
XXVIII.  Alexandria, 
XXIX.  Grand  Cairo, 

XXX.  Thebes, 
XXXI.  Djirjeh,      . 
XXXII.  African  Desert, 
XXXHI.  Gaza, 
XXXIV.  Jerusalem, 
XXXV.  Jaffa, 
XXXVI.  Valetta,     . 
XXXVII.  Summer  Trip,  1842, 
XXXVIII.  Rome, 
XXXIX.  Geneva,      . 
XL.  Munich, 


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Vlll 


CONTENTS. 


XLI.  Frankfort, 
XLII.  Baths  op  Ems, 
XLIII.  Copenhagen,    . " 
•    XLIV.  Christiania, 
XLV.  Stockholm, 
XLVI.  St.  Petersburg, 
XLVII.  Moscow,   . 
XLVIII.  Cracow,  .        .        . 
XLIX.  Island  ot  St.  Thomas, 
L.  Caracas,  . 
'  L*.  Island  of  Beatti,    . 
LI.  Jacmel,     . 
LII.  Havana,  . 
LIII.  Havana,  . 
LIV.  Trip  to  California, 
LV.  Trips  to  Benecia,  Sacramento,  &c, 
LVI.  Oregon  Territory 
LVII.  San  Francisco, 
LVIII.  Lahaina,  . 
LIX.  Honolulu, 
LX.  Honolulu, 
LXI.  Ladrone  Islands, 
LXII.  Canton,     . 
LXIII.  Hong  Kong,     . 
LXIV.  Singapore, 
LXV.  Kandt,     . 
LXVI.  Kandy,     . 
LXVII.  Calcutta, 
LXVIII.  For  Bombay,    . 
LXIX.  Bombay,    . 
LXX.  Alexandria,     . 
LXXI.  Island  o?  Teneriffe, 
LXXII.  Bahia,       . 
LXXIII.  Rio  Janeiro,    . 
LXXIV.  Monte  Video,  . 
LXXV.  Buenos  Ayres, 
LXXVI.  Off  Monte  Video, 
LXXVII.  Pacific  Coast, 
LXXVIII.  Santiago, 
LXXIX.  Lima, 
'  LXXX.  Quito, 
LXXXL  Paris, 
LXXXII.  Barcelona, 
LXXXIIL  Palma,     . 
LXXX  IV.  Valencia, 
LXXXV.  Murcia,    . 
LXXXVI.  Madrid,    . 
LXXXVII.  The  Escorial, 
LXXXVIII.  Valladolid, 


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TWENTY  YEAPiS  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 


1839. 
I. 

Havana,  February  10,  1839. 

By  the  advice  of  m j  physicians  my  second  sea  voyage  was  by 
the  ship  Norma,  which  sailed  from  the  port  of  New  York  on 
the  20th  of  January.  After  a  passage  of  fourteen  days,  with 
alternate  gales  and  calms,  we  sighted  Abaco,  and  the  Hole  in  the 
Wall.  We  crossed  the  Bahama  Banks ;  the  water  was  of  a 
bright  blue  color,  with  a  clay  bottom,  which  was  distinctly  seen. 
The  thermometer  went  up  to  72°,  so  we  threw,  off  our  winter- 
garments,  and  put  ourselves  in  summer  apparel. 

A  cheerful  sight  was  the  old  Moro  Castle,  at  the  entrance  of 
the  harbor.  It  has  three  hundred  guns,  and  is  built  upon 
a  rock.  Opposite  stands  a  new  fort  called  the  Punta,  and 
three  hundred  yards  from  the  Moro  Castle  is  a  gigantic 
work  called  the  Cabana.  These  defences  are  on  an  immense 
scale,  with  heavy  rock  excavations,  and  are  said  to  have  cost 
eighteen  millions  of  dollars.  When  the  bill  was  presented  to 
the  Court  of  Madrid,  the  old  King  Ferdinand  asked  if  they  were 
made  of  silver.  The  passport  system  is  onerous  and  rigorous 
here ;  but  time  and  progress  will  produce  a  change. 

The  landing,  or  shipping-port,  is  a  stout,  well -planked  wharf, 
of  great  length,  sufficient  for  the  landing  of  cargoes  :  vessels  lie 
head  on,  and  discharge  and  receive  over  their  bows.  Our  ship 
anchored  in  the  stream,  and  boats  took  our  baggage  to  the 
Custom-house.  We  were  struck  by  the  novel  sights  on  land- 
ing. A  large  number  of  negroes  was  employed  in  unloading 
ships,   and   transporting   merchandize,  singing   the  while  their 

1 


I  APPEARANCE   OF  HAVANA. 

merry  sailor  songs.  Mules  with  heavy  saddles,  and  small  trucks 
on  two  wheels,  were  waiting  for  our  effects.  Huge  carts  for 
heavy  goods  were  drawn  by  oxen,  with  rings  in  their  noses,  and 
yokes  resting  on  their  horns.  Next  comes  the  Volante,  or  plea- 
sure carriage,  which  is  universally  adopted,  and,  although  odd- 
looking  at  first,  it  is  extremely  comfortable,  and  is  adapted  to 
the  climate.  Figure  to  yourself  a  pair  of  wheels  from  seven  to 
eight  feet  high,  and  shafts  eighteen  feet  long.  Upon  these  shafts 
a  chaise  body  suspended  with  leather-straps.  At  the  extreme 
end  of  the  shaft  the  horse  or  mule,  with  his  braided  tail  tied  up 
to  a  large  Mameluke  saddle.  Upon  that  saddle  a  shiny,  black 
negro,  with  leather  leggings  strapped  up  to  his  knees  ;  shoes  and 
spurs,  and  coat  and  hat  of  livery.  The  hacks,  which  are  rather 
rusty,  stand  about  the  squares  for  customers ;  but  the  equipages 
of  the  nobility  and  wealthy  citizens  are  really  magnificent,  and 
the  sight  of  the  fair  sex,  in  full  dress,  on  a  gala-day  when 
hundreds  are  seen  on  the  Paseo,  is  one  of  the  most  pleasing  and 
beautiful  to  be  found  in  any  country. 

I  have  just  witnessed  a  display  of  the  kind ;  some  three 
hundred  Yolantes  were  present  with  a  band  of  music.  The 
vehicles  go  up  on  one  side  of  the  Paseo  and  return  by  the  other, 
driving  through  a  paradise  of  garden.  An  accident  occurred  ; 
the  lancers  on  horseback  were  instantly  on  hand  to  preserve 
order.  The  police  is  numerous  and  efficient ;  the  men  carry 
spears,  and  a  lantern  in  the  night.  The  military  force  is  large, 
and  belongs  to  the  regular  troops  from  Old  Spain. 

The  style  of  building  strikes  a  stranger  with  surprise  as  he 
enters  the  city.  The  houses  are  generally  of  stone,  one  or 
two  stories  high,  and  are  covered  with  fluted  tiles,  or  flat  roofs 
of  cement.  Many  of  the  residences  of  the  wealthy  are  commo- 
dious and  magnificent.  The  building  material  is  a  yellow, 
calcareous  stone,  which  is  easily  shaped  by  an  axe  to  any  form, 
and  being  porous  it  receives  cement  readily.  The  fronts  of  the 
houses  are  painted  with  gay  colors,  yellow,  pink,  or  blue. 
They  have  low  windows,  with  iron  bars  for  shutters,  and 
curtains  supply  the  place  of  glass,  which  is  yet  almost  unknown 
here.  No  chimneys  are  needed,  as  the  cooking  is  mostly  done 
with  earthen  furnaces. 

Havana  is  well  supplied  with  market  buildings  of  a  quadran- 
gular form :    the  outer  structure  is  for  the  butchers,  and  the 


A  VISIT  TO  A  PLANTATION.  3 

interior  for  venders  of  fruits  and  vegetables.  The  fisb-market 
is  tastefully  ornamented  with  marble  and  porcelain  slab  counters, 
and  the  various  kinds  of  fish  thereon  have  all  the  hues  of  the 
rainbow.  The  fish  market  is  in  the  hands  of  a  monopoly,  who 
employ  many  vessels  along  the  Florida  coast  for  supplies. 

A  grand  masquerade-charity  ball  has  just  taken  place  at  the 
Tacon  Theatre,  outside  the  city  walls,  and  it  is  computed  that 
seven  thousand  tickets  were  sold.  The  great  variety  of 
costumes,  within  and  without,  representing  all  the  characters 
that  could  be  suggested  to  one's  mind,  the  multitude  of  the 
dances,  and  the  diiferent  strains  of  music,  the  five  tiers  of  boxes 
of  open  bronze-work,  displaying  the  rich  robes  and  dazzling 
gems  of  the  lady  spectators,  gave  it  additional  charms. 

I  have  just  returned  from  the  plantation  of  a  fellow  passenger, 
and  am  much  pleased  with  the  rack  or  gait  of  my  horse,  which  is 
peculiar  to  the  island  of  Cuba.  The  road,  which  was  rough,  was 
of  calcareous  stone.  The  shell,  which  is  easily  discovered  in  the 
rock,  can  be  cut  in  any  shape  ;  it  hardens  with  age.  The  house 
which  I  visited  was  comfortable,  and  pleasantly  situated,  wuth 
negro-houses  among  groves  of  oranges,  citron  and  lemon  trees, 
and  fields  of  sugar-cane  in  the  background.  The  reception  was 
a  warm  one,  for  the  mistress  of  the  place,  an  affectionate  old 
lady,  was  delighted  at  the  return  of  her  son  ;  I  witnessed  her 
kindness  towards  her  negroes.  The  Bishop's  Garden  gave  me 
an  opportunity  of  seeing  tropical  plants  and  fruits  in  their  per- 
fection. It  seemed  neglected,  however,  while  the  Tacon  Garden 
is  a  splendid  affair. 


11. 

Matanzas,  March  1,  1839. 

This  is  a  considerable  shipping  port.  Large  quantities  of 
lumber  are  brought  hither  by  New  England  vessels,  which  in 
return  take  cargoes  of  sugar,  molasses,  and  coffee.  I  saw  a 
drove  of  mules  and  horses  with  pack-saddles,  fifty  in  number^ 
all  laden  with  these  articles,  coming  to  market.  Twenty-eight 
of  them  were  laden  with  four  kegs,  each  containing  five  gallons 
of  molasses,  and  were  tied  head  and  tail  together.  One  man  had 
charge  of  that  number.     In  this  warm  climate  they  stop  and 


4  THE   COFFEE   TREE. 

wash  or  swim  their  animals  in  the  streams  to  refresh  them  ;  the 
drivers  drink  the  fresh  milk  from  the  cocoa.  The  number  of 
game-cocks  owned  here  attracted  my  attention ;  cock-fighting 
takes  place  frequently.  I  noticed,  in  passing  an  inclosure,  an 
arena  for  practising,  and  stakes  were  driven  for  forty  of  them, 
to  which  they  were  attached  by  the  leg ;  some  are  even  valued  as 
high  as  six  ounces,  or  a  hundred  dollars ;  two  negroes  were 
cracking  corn  with  their  teeth  to  feed  them,  and  others  were 
sprinkling  aguardiente  or  Cuba  rum  over  their  heads  and 
bodies;  it  gives  them  a  reddish  color  after  the  feathers  are 
plucked  out.  If  game,  they  fight  until  they  die.  In  the  pit 
they  take  them  up  and  blow  in  their  mouths,  lick  their  heads, 
raise  their  wings,  run  their  bills  together,  and  then  put  them 
down  to  see  who  will  conquer. 

In  the  vicinity  are  found  very  extensive  caves,  inhabited  by 
bats,  which  are  well  worth  a  visit.  Myself  and  a  fellow-traveller 
hired  a  Yolante  to  visit  a  coffee  estate  on  the  banks  of  the  little 
Cauaimar  river.  The  weather  w^as  warm  ;  the  rays  of  the  sun 
were  oppressive  like  one  of  our  July  days ;  it  was  dry  and 
dusty.  We  met  with  droves  of  muzzled  mules  laden  with  pro- 
ducts ;  we  crossed  the  river  in  scow  boats,  drawn  by  a  rope.  The 
coffee-tree  grows  about  three  or  five  feet  high,  and  is  lopped 
to  make  the  branches  expand,  otherwise  it  grows  seven  or 
eight  feet  in  height.  The  blossom  is  white,  the  leaf  resembles 
the  laurel  of  our  country,  only  larger ;  there  is  a  fragrant  but 
insipid  flavor  to  the  blossom ;  the  berry  is  red,  and  tastes  sweet. 
On  opening  it  you  discover  two  grains  of  coffee.  It  is  gathered 
in  baskets,  and  carried  to  the  yard  where  they  have  large 
earthen  floors  with  descents  both  ways  to  carry  off"  the  rain ; 
here  it  remains  until  perfectly  dry,  then  it  passes  through  a 
machine  which  completes  it.  It  is  then  put  up  in  sacks  for 
market.  They  commence  picking  about  the  1st  of  November, 
and  continue  until  they  have  finished,  often  as  late  as  February. 
The  tree  lasts  fifteen  or  twenty  years,  if  well  attended  to. 

The  Canaimar  is  a  beautiful  stream,  with  high  banks  covered 
with  trees,  and  is  from  fifty  to  eighty  yards  wide :  it  is  navigable 
some  fifteen  or  twenty  miles,  for  schooners  up  to  Barcadero. 
For  pretty  scenery  it  reminds  me  of  the  Hudson,  but  decidedly 
in  miniature. 

We  saw  several  fine  coffee  jDlantations,  and  others  exhausted, 


SUGAR  AND   FRUIT.  5 

devoted  to  the  production  of  sugar.  Our  Calesero  with  his 
droll  costume  wore  his  sword,  which  he  flattered  himself  was 
a  great  protection  after  nightfall.  The  roads  were  rough,  and 
little  travelled  by  carriages ;  but  it  was  amusing  the  way  we 
rattled  over  the  hills  with  three  horses  attached  to  our  odd- 
looking  vehicle.  We  have  followed  up  our  visits  to  sugar  and 
coffee  plantations  in  other  directions.  Some  of  the  latter  are 
most  beautiful  with  avenues  of  palms,  interspersed  with  orange 
and  mj^rtle  trees.  One  sugar  estate  of  three  hundred  acres 
turned  off  three  hundred  hogsheads  of  sugar.  The  owuer 
had  one  hundred  and  fifty  negroes,  one  hundred  of  whom  were 
working  hands ;  we  visited  their  cabins  and  the  sugar- works. 
He  had  seventy  yoke  of  oxen,  thirty  on  the  grinding  mill ;  they 
work  night  and  day,  five  pair  at  a  time,  cracking  the  cane  with 
three  large  rollers.  The  juice  is  insipid  but  healthful ;  it  soon 
becomes  acid  when  exposed  to  the  sun.  It  runs  direct  from  the 
mill  in  reservoirs,  and  in  the  iron  boilers  with  sides  of  brick- 
work. It  is  dipped  from  one  pot  to  the  other,  and  boiled 
until  the  guarappa  or  syrup  passes  into  reservoirs  or  granu- 
lators,  after  which  it  is  put  into  hogsheads,  and  stands  over 
vats  to  allow  the  escape  of  the  treacle  or  molasses,  which  is 
pumped  up  and  forwarded  to  market.  The  crushed  stalk  is 
dried  and  used  for  fuel,  when  engines  are  in  vogue  as  they  now 
are.  The  cane  may  be  used  up  entirely.  In  the  cutting  the 
cattle  follow  and  consume  the  tops ;  the  balance  decays  and 
enriches  the  soil.  The  negroes  cut  the  cane  systematically  with 
long  knives  in  the  fields.  The  cane  here  springs  up  again 
without  replanting,  and  lasts  from  five  to  seven  years. 

In  the  gardens  were  guava  trees,  from  which  the  delicious 
jelly  is  made,  and  pomegranates,  oranges,  and  other  fruits. 
The  most  graceful  tree  is  the  palm :  it  grows  straight  to  a  great 
height,  with  rings  from  the  root,  and  looks  like  a  column  of 
marble  of  greyish  blue  color  until  within  fifteen  feet  of  the  top, 
when  it  lessens  in  size,  and  is  of  a  bright  green  color,  with  an 
offshoot  or  thread  that  grows  up.  like  the  winding-sheet  of  a 
candle,  about  four  feet  to  the  top,  from  which  spread  the 
branches,  like  an  umbrella.  From  the  green  spot  spring  bunches 
of  berries  which  are  green,  but  ripen  red,  and  are  used  by 
the  negroes  to  feed  their  hogs.  The  mango,  shaddocks,  sweet 
oranges,  and  forbidden-fruit,  are  interesting  to  the  stranger.    We 


b  A   FKESH   CARGO   OF   SLAVES. 

have  just  paid  the  sad  rites  to  one  of  our  Northern  invalids; 
only  four  of  us  followed  him  to  the  grave.  The  funeral  of  a 
child  three  years  old  has  just  passed  ;  this  beautiful  infant  lies 
in  a  half  coffin,  with  face  and  hands  exposed,  a  wreath  of 
flowers  about  its  head,  and  a  bouquet  in  its  little  hand.  One 
half  of  the  coffin  is  supported  by  four  boys  in  fashionably  cut 
garments,  and  bright  coat-buttons ;  the  other  half  is  supported 
by  other  boys.  The  friends  of  the  dead  do  not  go  to  the  grave. 
The  manner  of  burial  being  so  diffiirent  from  ours,  one  is  struck 
with  every  peculiarity.  Some  distinguished  person  who  died 
recently  had  ten  negro  bearers  dressed  in  military  apparel, 
red  and  grey  livery  trimmed  with  lace,  with  black  chapeaux  and 
feathers.  Ten  Volantes  followed.  The  bodies  are  buried  in 
trenches,  with  all  their  clothing  on,  which  is  cut  before  interment. 
They  are  put  in  the  ground  without  the  coffin,  quick-lime  is 
thrown  upon  them  with  a  little  earth ;  others  are  buried  over 
them.  When  room  is  required,  the  ground  is  dug  over,  and 
the  fragments  are  burned. 

The  convicts  here  are  employed  upon  the  public  works,  and 
in  the  streets,  pounding  stone  and  regulating  the  thoroughfares ; 
they  are  guarded  b}^  soldiers,  and  wear  chains  on  one  side  from 
the  waist  to  the  ankle.  I  recently  accompanied  a  planter  who 
wanted  to  add  to  his  stock  of  negroes.  A  cargo  of  two  hun- 
dred and  eighty-five  had  just  arrived  from  Africa.  They 
were  in  the  Barracoons,  men,  women,  and  children.  I  had 
some  oranges,  which  I  cut  up  and  gave  them ;  they  did  not 
know  what  they  were  at  first,  but  soon  found  out,  and  flocked 
around  me  and  drove  me  to  the  door,  with  their  hands  all  up, 
clamoring  for  more.  It  was  amusing  to  see  the  scampering  and 
jubilee  when  the  fruit  was  thrown  among  them.  They  were 
fond  of  snuff,  tobacco,  and  pipes.  The  planter  made  a  selection 
of  twenty,  at  twenty-four  ounces,  or  four  hundred  and  eight 
dollars  each,  and  they  seemed  happy  to  get  out  of  the  barracks. 


III. 

South- West  Pass,  Balize,  April  1,  1839. 
The    steamer  Tacon   brought   me  down  from  Matanzas  to 
Havana.     The  renowned  Ravels  were  drawin<2;  immense  houses 


NEW   ORLEANS.  7 

at  the  Tacon  theatre.  I  took  the  railway  for  Guines,  a  small 
town,  towards  the  south  side  of  the  island,  much  resorted  to 
by  invalids.  We  made  many  excursions  on  horseback,  visiting 
different  cafetals  and  sugar  plantations,  passing  through  orange 
groves,  the  eye  resting  upon  acres  of  pineapples.  I  attended 
high  mass  at  the  Cathedral  in  Havana,  where  rest  the  ashes  of 
Columbus,  which  are  said  to  have  been  brought  from  St. 
Domingo.  Our  passengers  returning  to  the  States  have  con- 
verted our  brig  into  a  sort  of  Noah's  ark  ;  it  has  twenty  poodle 
dogs,  quantities  of  pigeons,  doves,  Guinea  pigs,  game  cocks,  etc., 
and  about  ninety  thousand  oranges  on  deck.  No  steamer 
offering,  we  were  obliged  to  take  this  brig.  We  should  have 
made  the  passage  in  five  days,  but  a  norther  came  on  within 
twelve  hours'  sail  of  the  Balize,  and  we  were  among  the  Chande- 
leur  Islands  at  one  time  without  a  chronometer,  and  the  officers 
could  not  tell  our  course.  The  first  appearance  of  two  rival 
tug-boats,  the  Lion  and  Mohican,  in  the  distance,  running  for 
us,  was  a  grateful  sight.  We  are  now  rapidly  ascending  the 
river,  whose  water  is  charged  with  alluvial  deposit,  and  is  very 
muddv.  The  low  banks,  covered  with  grass  and  cane-brakes, 
arrest  the  floating  logs  from  the  undermined  forests  of  the  upper 
rivers,  brought  down  by  the  freshets ;  alligators  are  seen  crawl- 
ing upon  them,  and  basking  in  the  sun's  rays.  Further  up,  we 
come  in  sight  of  sugar  plantations,  with  the  whitewashed  huts 
of  the  negroes.  The  appearance  of  a  high-pressure  steamer, 
with  hurricane  deck,  is  very  striking  at  first  sight  ;  and  the 
eternal  puff  of  the  escaping  steam,  may  be  heard  distinct!}'' 
for  miles.  Towing  on  the  Mississippi,  against  a  current  six 
miles  per  hour,  requires  enormous  power.  The  shipping  at 
New  Orleans  is  immense,  extending  for  six  miles  along  the 
Levee,  which  is  of  a  semicircular  form,  and  gives  New  Orleans 
the  name  of  the  Crescent  City.  The  cotton  warehouses  and 
presses  are  of  gigantic  size,  to  meet  the  demands  of  the  trade. 
Many  of  the  public  buildings  are  substantial,  and  in  good  archi- 
tectural taste.  The  St.  Charles  and  St.  Louis  hotels  are  of  a 
superior  order,  and  are  among  the  largest  in  the  United  States. 
The  exhibition  of  merchandize  on  the  levees,  consisting  of 
cotton,  sugar,  molasses,  tobacco,  lard,  flour,  grain,  and  all  the 
products  of  the  Western  and  Southern  states  bordering  on  the 
rivers,  is  immense,  and  connectina:  here  from  a  hundred  steamers 


8  A   MOCK  TRIAL   AT  SEA. 

with  a  fleet  of  shipping  for  most  of  the  ports  in  the  world,  gives 
a  faint  idea  of  the  trade  of  this  commercial  city. 

A  drive  over  the  shell  road,  along  the  banks  of  the  canal,  to 
the  Lake  House,  and  the  return  by  rail  from  Lake  Ponchartrain 
— a  peep  at  the  French  opera  in  the  second  municipality — a  drive 
to  Carrolton,  the  new  and  upper  portion  of  the  city — a  walk 
over  the  battle-field  below  the  city,  where  General  Jackson  de- 
feated the  British — will'  suffice  for  this  visit,  as  I  return  again. 
I  now  take  the  steamer  for  the  tieiv  Republic  of  Texas  ! 


IT. 

Mobile,  Alabama,  April  27,  1839. 

The  steamship  New  York  carried  us  to  Galveston  in  fifty-six 
hours.  The  fine  weather  promised  us  a  shorter  passage,  but  our 
ship  grounded  for  several  hours  at  the  south-west  Mississippi 
pass.  When  we  sighted  the  few  masts  in  the  distance  from  the 
harbor  of  Galveston,  a  gay  wag  pointed  them  out  to  a  verdant 
passenger  as  the  steeples  of  the  city.  Only  a  limited  number  of 
buildings  are  yet  erected.  A  wrecked  steamer  on  the  beach 
with  upper  cabins  answered  the  purposes  of  a  hotel.  Levees 
will  be  made  for  the  protection  of  the  city  from  inundation ;  the 
city  lies  on  Galveston  island  at  the  foot  of  Galveston  Bay, 
which  situation,  with  an  energetic  and  increasing  population,  will 
render  it  in  time  a  place  of  great  trade  and  commerce.  A  small 
high-pressure  steamer  took  us  up  to  the  Capital  of  the  Republic, 
Houston,  named  in  honor  of  the  late  president  and  hero  of 
San  Jacinto. 

We  had  a  fair  number  of  cabin  passengers,  and  a  goodly  num- 
ber in  the  steerage,  migrating  to  the  new  settlements. 

One  of  those  amusing  mock  criminal  cases  which  help  to 
beguile  the  tedious  hours  at  sea,  came  off  on  the  charge  of  a 
slight  indiscretion  against  a  New  Orleans  merchant.  Counsel  in 
behalf  of  the  state  and  defence  of  the  prisoner  was  procured  ; 
the  judge  took  his  seat ;  the  sheriff  arrested  the  prisoner  ;  wit- 
nesses were  subpoenaed ;  special-pleading  began,  and  the  examina- 
tion of  defence  before  the  jury,  half  of  them  ladies,  being  the 
entire  number  of  our  fair  passengers,  contributed  not  a  little  to 
the  amusements,  in  which  Finn,  the  renowned  punster  and  come- 


THE    CITY   OF   HOUSTON.  9 

dian,  took  part.  The  jury  retired  to  the  ladies'  cabin,  dropped 
the  curtains  upon  the  court,  rendered  a  champagne  verdict,  which 
resulted  in  a  similar  sentence  upon  the  judge,  advocates,  and 
sheriff,  the  consequence  of  which  was  no  want  of  exhilarating 
material  for  the  voyage. 

A  beautiful  sail  up  the  bay ;  a  view  of  the  battle-ground  of 
San  Jacinto ;  a  description  of  the  positions  occupied  by  the 
Mexican  forces  of  Santa  Anna,  and  the  Texans  in  hot  pur- 
suit ;  the  perfect  slaughter  of  the  former ;  the  finding  of  the 
Mexican  leader  up  a  tree,  and  many  other  details  from  an  old 
Texan  who  was  engaged  in  the  combat,  passed  the  time  agreea- 
bly, and  we  were  in  the  narrow  Buffalo  Bayou,  the  branches  of 
tne  trees  grazmg  our  wheel-houses.  The  little  town  of  Harris- 
burg,  fifteen  miles  below  Houston,  was  burnt  by  the  Mexicans. 
It  should  have  been  the  head  of  navigation,  it  was  remarked,  but 
the  Aliens  founded  the  city  as  it  now  is,  and  built  a  capital 
and  engaged  the  settlers  to  occupy  it.  There  are  some  thirty 
frame  houses  being  erected  per  month.  I  visited  the  log 
cabin  still  standing,  occupied  formerly  by  Sam  Houston.  Took 
a  ride  on  the  seven-mile  prairie ;  visited  General  Hunt,  Secretary 
of  the  Navy,  President  Lamar,  and  was  presented  to  Sam 
Houston,  Ex-President,  at  New  Orleans,  on  my  return  to  that 
city.  The  accommodations,  of  course,  in  a  new  country  just 
opened,  cannot  be  expected  to  equal  those  of  old  settled  cities. 
Carriages  are  not  yet  introduced ;  stumps  still  stand  in  the 
streets.  Time  has  scarcely  permitted  to  make  foundation  wallSj 
but  the  buildings  are  set  up  on  blocks,  giving  the  pigs  and 
chickens  free  ingress  underneath. 

My  luggage  was  taken  on  a  wheelbarrow,  and  at  the  first 
hotel  I  stopped  at  I  verdantly  called  for  a  single  room  ;  the  land- 
lord smiled,  and  said  that  he  had  only  a  single  one,  which  was  a 
fifty -bedded  room,  and  all  occupied.  My  curiosity  induced  me  to 
see  it.  There  were  rows  of  bunks,  not  unlike  coffins  in  size,  a 
little  raised  from  the  floor.  I  then  proceeded  to  another  hotel, 
which  was  also  full,  the  rush  of  emigrants,  land-purchasers,  and 
speculators,  being  great. 

I  found  a  private  house,  but  did  not  ask  for  a  single  room ; 
there  were  three  apartments  for  three  beds  each,  with  two  and 
three  in  a  bed.  My  Mississippi  companion  and  myself  were 
obliged  to  double  up ;  we  could  lie  upon  our  backs  and  study 


10  MOBILE. 

astronomj^  througli  the  roof,  and  in  case  of  rain  put  our  clothes 
under  the  bed. 

Our  single  rough  pine  table  was  well  covered  with  arms, 
which  travellers  use  largely  for  safety  and  shooting.  Deer 
are  found  in  great  abundance,  consequently  venison,  as  well 
as  fish  and  oysters,  in  the  vicinity  of  Galveston,  is  abundant. 

After  some  few  excursions  I  returned  to  New  Orleans,  much 
gratified  with  my  trip,  and  the  exhibition  of  American  energy 
in  adapting  itself  to  the  settlement  of  a  new  country. 

I  asked  a  Mississippi  land  speculator  what  he  thought  of 
Houston.  He  unhesitatingly  replied  :  "It  is  the  largest  three- 
year-old  1  ever  saw." 

The  steamer  Merchant  brought  me  through  Lake  Pontchar- 
train,  sighting  Fort  Pike  in  the  pass  to  Lake  Bourgne,  passing 
the  mouth  of  Pearl  river  and  the  Dauphin  Island,  into  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico,  and  up  Mobile  Bay  to  the  city.  The  shipping  lies 
thirty  miles  below ;  light  draught  ships  and  brigs  come  up  to 
the  city ;  heavy  vessels  load  by  lighters ;  large  numbers  of 
steamers  are  at  the  wharves  from  the  Upper  Tombigbee  and 
Alabama  rivers.  It  is  an  agreeable  citj^  with  hospitable  inha- 
bitants, and  an  extensive  cotton  trade  ;  many  broad  fine  avenues 
and  streets  are  studded  with  the  Pride  of  India,  a  tree  filling  the 
air  with  fragrance. 

My  friends  have  driven  me  out  to  Spring  Hill  in  the  suburbs, 
with  its  pretty  private  residences,  the  race-course,  Choctaw  point, 
and  other  localities.  The  hotel  is  comfortable ;  the  markets  and 
restaurants  are  well  supplied,  and  lunches  at  the  saloons  supply 
the  inner  man  with  game,  Barataria  Bay  oj^sters,  and  all 
their  accompaniments.  The  South  prides  itself  upon  its  choice 
imported  liquors,  and  the  genuine  leaf  Havana  cigars.  The  sab- 
bath is  well  observed  here ;  attendance  at  church  is  general. 
The  negro  population  is  well  dressed  and  happy. 


N".  B.  Some  years  since  the  writer  visited  Galveston.  Hous- 
ton, and  many  other  portions  of  Texas  in  the  interior,  and  was 
highly  gratified  at  the  great  growth  of  the  cities  named,  the 
st3de  of  brick  dwellings  which  had  replaced  frame  buildings,  the 
march  of  civilization,  and  the  general  comfort.  In  the  interim  of 
time  since  his  first  visit  he  had  seen  the  early  settlement  of  Cali- 
fornia and  Oregon,  as  well  as  the  new  states  of  Iowa,  Minnesota, 


BY   THE   WAY.  11 

Missouri,    Illinois,    and    watched    the    progress    of   American 
advancement. 


V. 

TRIP   FROM  ALABAMA  THROUGH   FLORIDA  AND  GEORGIA. 

The  steamer  Champion  brought  us  in  nine  hours  to  Pensa- 
cola,  well  known  as  a  United  States'  Naval  Station.  We  took 
the  steamer  Leroy  for  Lagrange,  with  three  passengers,  passing 
through  Santa  Eosa  sound ;  the  island  of  the  same  name  rose 
in  the  distance,  by  moonlight,  like  a  walled  city,  with  some  ver- 
dure and  shrub  trees,  and  the  beach  of  white  sand  appeared 
like  snow  ;  the  main  land,  covered  with  live  oak,  has  been  pur- 
chased by  Government,  for  ship  building.  We  left  Pensacola  at 
five  P.M.  and  arrived  at  Lagrange  in  time  for  breakfast,  and  took 
stage  for  Choctahatchie,  Dead  Lake,  where  we  left  the  convey- 
ance and  went  a  mile  and  a  half  in  small  boats  to  connect 
with  another  stage  coach.  This  Dead  Lake  is  surrounded 
with  cypress  trees,  and  abounds  with  alligators ;  a  huge  fellow, 
with  distended  jaws,  showed  himself  beside  our  little  canoe ; 
we  fired  a  musket  shot  and  he  sank.  We  crossed  the  Chocta- 
hatchie, a  rapid  stream,  in  a  small  boat,  walked  up  the  hill  to  a 
barn,  and  found  a  stage  to  proceed.  Magnolias  of  immense 
height  were  found  in  the  everglades  in  abundance,  and  in  full 
bloom.  A  day's  ride  from  Lagrange  brought  us  to  the  village  of 
Mariana ;  we  stopped  at  Holmes'  Village,  P.  0.,  and  dined  by  the 
road  in  a  log-house,  in  a  wilderness  of  pines;  we  could  look 
through  the  sides  and  roof  of  this  dwelling.  The  woman  said 
she  had  nothing  in  the  house  for  dinner,  which  was  true  :  salt 
bacon,  corn  bread,  and  buttermilk,  were  the  prominent  articles. 
At  Mariana,  twent}- -seven  miles  from  the  Chattahoochie,  we 
found  supper  and  the  first  signs  of  a  town  since  we  left  Pensacola. 
Leaving  Mariana,  the  stage  had  seven  passengers  inside  and 
three  outside,  with  heav}^  luggage;  coming  down  Chipola  hill, 
the  equilibrium  was  almost  lost ;  we  were  going  over  when  the 
driver  let  the  horses  go  to  save  an  upset,  and  they  ran  away.  A 
refractory  horse  has  given  us  a  good  fright.    We  crossed  the  Apa- 


12  A  YARIETY   OF  SIGHTS. 

lacliicola  river  in  a  flat,  poled  up  the  stream,  and  took  the  cur- 
rent to  the  opposite  bank ;  negroes  lay  by  a  camp  fire  waiting 
for  the  boat.  Walked  a  mile  to  Mount  Yernon,  and  stopped  at 
Scott's  new  Arsenal  and  Magazine  ;  the  steamer  coming  in  view, 
we  heard  the  puff  of  steam  fifteen  miles,  I  took  the  steamer 
Commerce  for  Apalachicola;  we  had  undertaken  to  haul  a  raft 
of  timber,  when  we  saw  the  Irvington  coming.  Come  on, 
boys,  says  the  Irvington.  Don't  be  alarmed,  says  the  Capt. 
of  the  Commerce,  Firemen  all  anxious,  passengers  hurried 
on  board.  Cut  the  hawser,  cries  the  Capt. ;  now  go  it.  The 
vibration  of  the  boat  was  excessive ;  we  could  scarcely  raise 
a  cup  to  the  lips  at  table ;  boilers  and  flues  almost  red  hot, 
the  upper  deck  grew  so  hot  that  my  clothing  in  the  trunk  was 
heated  through.  The  scenery  is  pretty,  the  trees  and  growth  of 
underbrush  and  cane-brake,  down  to  river  bank  of  this  serpen- 
tine river,  are  picturesque. 

We  beat  our  enemy,  and  he  was  obliged  to   round  to,  as  a 
make-believe,  for  wood. 

I  found  Apalachicola  a  small  place,  with  some  good  brick 
stores;  the  shipping  lies  below,  brigs  and  schooners  only  get 
over  the  bar.  They  are  trying  to  make  St.  Joseph  a  rival, 
wath  a  railway  from  lola  to  the  junction  of  the  Chattahoochie 
and  Flint  rivers,  but  it  is  not  probable  that  the  river  trade 
can  be  diverted  from  its  natural  channel.  I  visited  cotton 
plantations  to  see  the  young  plant  growing,  and  the  gins  for 
dressing  ;  saw  the  poisonous  moccasin  snakes,  five  feet  long, 
and  alligators  in  abundance.  Visited  Quincy,  a  county  seat,  in 
Florida ;  the  stage  had  eleven  passengers,  nine  inside,  among  the 
rest  a  gentleman's  black  servant ;  in  the  night  I  found  him  fast 
asleep,  quietly  resting  on  my  shoulder.  I  supped  at  Bainbridge, 
and  tolerably  well,  and  one  man  offered  a  Watumpka  bill,  to 
which  the  woman  objected,  and  he  said  he  could  pay  when  he 
came  along  again.  He  left  his  card  to  the  amusement  of  all  con 
cerned.  We  halted  at  a  place  in  the  piny  woods,  wliere  the 
man  had  his  wife  and  a  dozen  white-headed,  flaxy  cliildren, 
dirty  as  pigs ;  he  said  he  was  from  North  Carolina,  and  could 
give  us  corn  bread  and  molasses,  fat  bacon,  and  three  cups  of 
coffee,  for  the  whole  party. 

At  twelve  at  night  coming  to  a  station,  I  found  a  part  of  my 
baggage  and  valise  missing;  I  put  a  negro  on  the  track  and  went 


IN   GEOEGIA.  13 

myself  in  searcli  through  the  woods ;  detached  one  of  the  lead 
horses  and  sent  another  negro  in  hot  pursuit.  I  heard  or  saw 
some  wild  animals  in  the  brush,  and  hurried  up  and  found  the 
boys  who  had  found  my  baggage  by  the  roadside,  where  it  had 
fallen.  Arrived  at  Macon,  on  the  Ocmulgee  river  ;  it  is  a  pretty 
city,  with  several  churches,  a  young  ladies'  seminary,  one  of  the 
largest  in  the  Union,  besides  several  banks.  Eode  from  thence 
to  Milledgeville,  the  capital  of  Georgia,  thirty-six  miles;  a  rough 
country,  scenery  different  from  that  of  Florida.  A  State  Con- 
vention was  being  held  to  reduce  the  number  of  representatives 
in  the  Legislature.  The  public-houses  were  crowded.  The 
Government  House  and  States  Prison  are  prominent' buildings. 

The  heat  and  dust  were  overpowering,  I  took  supper  at 
Sparta  at  twelve  at  night,  arrived  at  Warrenton  at  fourA.M., 
went  to  bed  and  slept  for  the  first  time  in  three  days.  I  was 
rejoiced  to  find  the  first  railroad  since  I  left  New  Orleans  ;  rode 
fifty-one  miles  to  Augusta,  on  the  Savannah  river.  The  yel- 
low nankeen  cotton  is  produced  in  this  section.  They  are  now 
raising  20,000  bales  of  staple  annually.  The  city  has  ten 
thousand  population.  There  are  many  northern  people  among 
the  residents ;  the  markets,  wharfs,  public  buildings,  and  society 
give  evidence  of  thrift  and  progress.  The  Morus  multicaulis 
speculation  is  now  the  rage.  This  reminds  me  of  meeting  a 
northern  man  in  Matanzas,  who  proposes  taking  out  plants  to 
get  the  winter  growth  and  profit  by  the  advance  of  the  cuttings. 
The  bubble  will  soon  burst.  Hamburg,  in  South  Carolina,  lies 
on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Savannah,  connecting  with  a  bridge, 
where  are  seen  the  fortifications  of  nullification  days. 


YI. 

TRIP   FROM  AUGUSTA,   GEORGIA,   TO  NEW  YORK. 

I  LEFT  Augusta  by  the  South  Carolina  Eailroad  for  Charles- 
ton, stopping  at  Aiken,  a  dining  station  on  the  road,  where  a 
hurried  dinner  was  taken,  and  the  bell  rung  when  the  party 
was  half  through,  which  induced  one  of  the  number  to  snatch  a 
roasted  fowl,  to  the  amusement  of  the  passengers  and  chagrin 


14  WILMINGTOiSr,   NORTH   CAROLINA. 

of  the  landlord.  The  distance  was  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
six  miles,  mostly  in  light  soil  and  pine  wood  region.  There 
were  some  good  plantations.  When  in  sight  of  the  Four  Mile 
House  I  recognised  the  spot  which  I  had  visited  some  years 
previous.  The  great  oak  trees  were  still  standing  as  if  clad  in 
mourning,  with  the  moss  three  or  four  feet  in  length  hanging 
from  the  branches. 

In  the  low  humid  regions  of  Texas,  and  upon  the  banks  of 
rivers,  are  found  large  quantities  of  this  material,  which  is  dried 
and  used  for  mattresses,  cushions,  etc.,  and  is  quite  an  article  of 
commerce.  My  mind  was  carried  back  to  my  former  retreat  on 
Sullivan's  Island,  upon  which  is  situated  Fort  Moultrie,  and 
which  is  the  resort  and  residence  of  many  who  fly  thither  to 
enjoy  the  sea  air,  and  to  escape  the  fevers  produced  from  the  low 
banks  of  the  Ashley  and  Cooper  rivers,  and  the  marshes  in  the 
neighborhood. 

I  tarried  six  days  enjoying  the  hospitalities  of  numerous 
friends  whom  I  had  known  there,  and  in  Cuba.  My  health  had 
suffered  some  from  exposure,  and  I  was  happy  to  repose  myself. 
The  steamer  Gov.  Dudley  took  me  to  Wilmington,  N.  C,  upon 
Cape  Fear  river. 

The  great  quantity  of  saw-dust  from  the  steam  mills  and  bark 
from  the  tannery,  filled  up  the  low  places.  The  tratle  of  the 
place  is  in  pitch,  tar,  and  turpentine.  I  crossed  over  the  river 
to  look  at  the  rice  fields,  which  at  will  are  flooded  from  the  river. 
Gangs  of  negroes  were  engaged  in  hoeing  and  pulling  out 
weeds. 

Our  landlord  gave  us  the  best  the  place  afforded.  But  he  was 
a  wag,  and  had  placed  the  sharpest-breasted  turkey  I  had  ever 
met  with  on  the  table.  Standing  at  the  head,  he  disarmed  all 
complaint  by  saying:  "Now,  gentlemen,  I  wish  to  call  your 
attention  to  this  bird.  He  was  kept  for  the  races,  and  could 
outrun  any  turkey  in  all  Wilmington."  A  burst  of  laughter 
ensued,  and  all  were  delighted  with  the  dinner.  We  proceeded 
from  Wilmington  to  Waynesburg  on  the  Neuse  river,  eighty 
miles,  and  were  obliged  to  take  stage  over  a  corduroy  road,  the 
railway  not  being  yet  constructed  within  seventy  miles  of 
Abbeville. 

Such  a  horrible  jolting  I  had  never  experienced,  except  in 
the  low  grounds  along  the  Bay  of  Quinte  in  Canada.     Eails 


IN  THE   doctor's   ROOM.  15 

and  logs  were  thrown  across  marshy  soil  with  but  little  earth 
upon  them,  and  from  time  to  time  one  found  himself  with  his 
hat  over  his  eyes,  striking  the  top  of  the  stage.  At  three  in  the 
morning  we  found  ourselves  at  the  point  where  the  railway  was 
progressing.  The  little  tavern  had  only  one  bed  left.  What 
was  to  be  done?  I  had  made  application  and  secured  it.  We 
were  all  exhausted  with  the  ride,  and  six  passengers  had  equal 
claims  for  a  portion. 

The  bed  was  taken  off,  placed  upon  the  floor,  and  occupied  by 
three.  Two  took  the  bed  cords,  with  some  of  the  covering^ 
and  I  reconnoitred  the  house.  I  found  a  country  doctor's  room 
with  his  pharmacy  and  some  anatomical  remains;  as  good  luck 
would  have  it  for  once,  his  services  had  been  required  elsewhere, 
So  the  doctor's  room  was  occupied,  and  Morpheus's  subject  lost 
sight  of  dry  bones.  Twenty  miles  by  rail  brought  us  to  Wel- 
don,  and  from  thence  to  Petersburgh,  Virginia,  on  the  Appoma- 
tox  river.  Here  I  visited  some  friends  whom  I  had  formerly 
known  at  Tappahanock,  on  the  Rappahannock  river,  when  I 
first  visited  the  Old  Dominion. 


The  writer  of  these  Letters,  finding  his  health,  which  had 
improved  from  his  last  winter's  trip  to  Cuba,  again  suffering 
in  a  northern  climate,  left  the  cold  weather  behind  him,  and 
proceeded  south,  via  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Washington, 
Richmond,  and  thence  to  Charleston.  He  made  the  outside 
passage  to  Savannah  by  steamer,  and  thence  proceeded  by 
steamboats  to  Brunswick,  in  Georgia,  passing  through  the  Flo- 
rida wilds  to  Tallahassee,  at  imminent  risk  from  the  Seminole 
Indians.  From  Tallahassee  he  proceeded  to  St.  Joseph,  and 
embarked  for  Mobile  and  New  Orleans,  which  cities  he  had  left 
the  spring  before.  He  revisited  the  island  of  Cuba  during  the 
winter,  and  returned  in  the  spring  to  the  Crescent  City.  He 
took  steamer  bound  up  the  Red  river  to  Natchitoches  and 
Alexandria;  returned  and  visited  Natchez,  Mississippi,  a  few  days 
after  the  great  tornado,  which  destroyed  a  large  portion  of  the 
city  under  the  hill,  and  did  immense  damage  in  the  city  on  the 
bluff.  Many  lives  were  lost,  and  a  fleet  of  flat-boats  and  steam- 
ers sunk.     He  then  proceeded  np  the  Mississippi  to  Memphis, 


16  AT  HOME. 

Tennessee,  and  St.  Louis,  Missouri ;  from  the  latter  place  be  em- 
barked for  Louisville,  Kentucky,  and  Cincinnati.  His  next 
route  was  via  Wheeling,  Virginia,  over  the  beautiful  Cumberland 
pass  of  the  Alleghany  mountains  to  Hagerstown  and  Frederick, 
Maryland ;  thence  to  Baltimore ;  up  to  Philadelphia,  and  so 
home. 

To  avoid  repetition,  and  inasmuch  as  the  cities  and  countries 
of  our  Union  are  so  generally  known,  and,  not  to  tax  the 
reader,  he  has  avoided  the  recounting  of  the  thousand  incidents 
of  travel  which  would  require  too  much  space  in  this  limited 
work.  Suffice  it  to  say,  he  returned  in  improved  health,  with 
a  superficial  knowledge,  at  least,  of  the  products  and  resources 
of  our  country. 


A  TRIP  TO  EUKOPE.  17 


1840. 

yn. 

A  TRIP   TO   EUROPE. 

Dec.  V,  1840. 

I  LEFT  by  the  Britisli  Queen,  in  bad  health,  on  Tuesday,  upon 
two  days'  notice,  as  I  had  intended  to  go  to  Santa  Cruz.  The 
weather  was  cool  but  pleasant,  until  Friday,  which  was  stormy  ; 
it  continued  blowing  a  gale  until  Sunday,  which  was  very  rough 
and  boisterous.  I  was  very  sea-sick,  and  was  afraid  of  raising 
blood.  We  had  a  cold,  disagreeable  passage,  and  were  on  the 
ocean  three  Sundays ;  we  reached  Southampton  on  the  twenty- 
first  of  December.  The  ship  arrived  at  London  on  the  twent}^- 
third.  Our  coal  was  exhausted,  and  we  burned  up  all  the  spare 
wood  we  could  find  to  carry  us  to  Southampton. 

I  was  rejoiced  to  get  ashore  in  a  comfortable  English  hotel, 
with  kind  and  attentive  servants,  I  left  for  London  the  follow- 
ing day,  and  was  struck  with  the  style  of  the  English  farm-houses 
and  cottages — stacks  of  grain — thatched  roofs — hedge  fences — 
the  straight  furrows  in  ploughing — draining  of  lands — the  old 
style  of  brick  buildings  with  pot  chimneys,  and  the  dense  smoke 
from  the  bituminous  coal. 

Our  captain  had  promised  us  to  land  at  Plymouth,  if  could 
not  work  up  to  Cowes ;  the  ship  was  out  of  trim,  and  short  of 
water.  A  little  tug-boat  came  alongside  for  passengers  and 
luggage ;  a  heavy  sea  was  on,  and  it  was  difficult  to  get  transferred. ' 
I  took  cold,  and  was  fearful  I  could  not  proceed  south,  but  soon 
improved. 

On  approaching  London,  it  appeared  as  if  a  cloud  of  smoke 
enveloped  it  as  from  a  great  conflagration.  I  remained  in  Lon- 
don ten  days,  visiting  all  the  great  works  of  art  and  public 
buildings ;  St.  Paul's  Church — four  hundred  steps  to  the  cupola 
— occupying  one  square — forty  years  in  building,  and  said  to 
have  cost  seventy  million  dollars,  our  money — remarkable  echo 

2 


18  ALL  ABOUT  LONDON. 

in  dome,  the  closing  of  a  door  producing  a  report  like  the  discharge 
of  cannon.  The  statues  of  Lord  Nelson  and  scores  of  others 
are  contained  therein.  The  tunnel  under  the  Thames  is  one 
thousand  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  through  ;  thirty-eight  feet 
wide,  for  two  carriage  ways.  Looked  in  at  Drury  Lane,  Co- 
vent  Grarden,  and  Haymarket  Theatre.  Visited  St.  James's 
Park,  Waterloo  Barracks,  Kegent's  Park,  Houses  of  Lords  and 
Commons,  and  Westminster  Abbej^  Made  an  excursion  to  Wind- 
sor Castle,  Virginia  Water,  and  drove  through  the  extensive  Park 
ground.  Visited  the  West  India  Docks,  with  basins  of  immense 
extent,  and  massive  stone  wharfs,  solid  as  rocks.  Keturned  from 
South  wark  by  railway,  three  and  one-half  miles,  upon  arches 
over  the  tops  of  houses.  Visited  the  armory  rooms  in  the  old 
Tower,  and  saw  the  crown  jewels,  of  great  value.  The  spot  was 
pointed  out  where  Lady  Jane  Grey  and  Anne  Boleyn  were 
beheaded.  Was  in  the  cell  where  Walter  Raleigh  was  confined 
and  wrote  his  history. 

Newgate  Prison  and  St.  Giles's  were  not  neglected — the 
latter  dirty  and  filthy  to  a  degree — low  buildings,  black  as 
night— streets  ten  to  twelve  feet  wide — carts  blocking  up  the 
way — no  living  animal  inside  except  pigs — shavings  for  fuel — 
men  cutting  up  old  wood  in  little  bundles  to  sell  to  the  poor 
wretches.  Decent-looking  men  hurried  rapidly  through.  I 
was  almost  afraid  some  wretch  would  sally  out  upon  me — signs 
in  the  windows  "  Shaving  half-penny — hair-cutting  one  penny  " 
— "  Travellers'  lodgings,  and  rooms  for  single  persons" — rooms 
like  so  many  hog-sties — looked  in  at  Goldsmiths'  Hall,  and  saw 
statues  of  Gog  and  Magog.  The  sights  of  London  would  demand 
a  volume  itself  for  description. 

I  left  London  for  Dover  by  the  mail  coach,  which  is  com- 
fortable and  fast  when  railways  are  not  spoken  of.  Rode  alone 
to  Gravesend,  twenty  miles;  it  is  much  resorted  to  by  the 
Londoners  in  summer.  Passed  through  Stroud,  Rochester,  and 
Chatham ;  the  three  towns  almost  join ;  the  latter  has  dock- 
yards on  the  river  Mersey.  Passed  Canterbury,  and  many  other 
towns,  and  came  in  sight  of  the  chalk  hills  of  Dover.  At  every 
change  the  coachman  presents  himself,  "I  leave  you  here, 
sir,"  which  means  a  fee.  The  servants  in  hotels,  if  not  taxed  in 
the  bill,  array  themselves  in  line  at  the  door,  "  Remember  the 
chambermaid,  sir."     "Boots,  sir,  if  you  please."     "I   am  the 


IN"  FRANCE.  19 

waiter,  sir,  if  you  will  be  so  kind."  The  guineas  vanish  rapidly 
in  England.  A  little  iron  mail  steamer  carried  us  over  the  Bri- 
tish Channel  in  three  hours  to  Calais  in  France.  Sea  so  rough,  we 
could  not  land  for  some  hours.  Passengers  very  sick.  When 
the  tide  rose  we  run  in  harbor.  At  next  day's  low  tide  I  saw  brigs, 
schooners,  and  steamers  floundering  in  the  mud  all  aground; 
good  substantial  docks.  Walled  city  ;  population,  ten  thousand 
inside,  seven  or  eight  thousand  outside  ;  garrisoned  by  a  regi- 
ment of  soldiery  ;  luggage  taken  to  custom-house,  and  examined 
closely.  Visited  Notre  Dame  Church ;  no  pews ;  chairs  all 
around  upon  the  paved  floor,  with  tops  to  lean  upon  ;  payment 
is  exacted  for  use  of  them.  The  streets  are  narrow ;  the  women 
wear  caps,  few  bonnets,  and  perform  all  the  menial  service  of  men. 
Coming  from  America  and  England  it  strikes  one's  attention. 
Left  with  the  diligence  in  the  coupe  or  front  part,  with  glass 
windows,  and  a  good  look-out ;  pleasant  ride  to  Boulogne.  We 
were  overtaken  by  the  phenomena  of  a  violent  storm,  thunder  and 
lightning,  hail  and  snow.  We  passed  through  Montreuil  and 
Abbeville,  prominent  towns.  The  roads  were  in  bad  order, 
and  it  took  thirty-three  hours  for  the  one  hundred  and  sixty 
miles  to  Paris.  To  cross  some  of  the  hills  we  were  obliged  to  put 
on  nine  horses,  and  look  like  a  caravan.  As  soon  as  I  got 
settled  in  the  French  capital  I  found  constant  occupation 
in  sight-seeing,  all  being  new  to  me.  The  remains  of  Napo- 
leon, brought  back  from  the  island  of  St.  Helena,  by  order  of 
Louis  Philippe,  have  just  been  deposited  with  extraordinary 
pomp  at  the  Hotel  des  Invalides.  I  am  not  prepared  to  describe 
the  sights  of  Paris  in  detail  on  this  occasion.  My  health  had 
suffered  from  cold,  and  I  found  it  necessary  to  push  off  south. 
My  passport  being  prepared  at  the  Prefecture  de  Police,  and  all 
the  necessary  vises  of  ministers  from  the  different  countries 
which  I  may  visit,  obtained,  I  took  the  lumbering  diligence  ea 
route  for  Marseilles,  a  distance  of  some  five  hundred  miles. 
We  reached  Chalon  on  the  Saone,  where  I  had  hoped  to  get  a 
steamer,  but  the  freshet  prevented  our  passing  the  bridges.  Pro- 
ceeded to  Lj^ons,  tlie  great  manufacturing  city  of  France,  and 
rejoiced  to  get  in  quarters  with  a  good  fire  and  comfortable  bed. 
The  ravages  of  the  flood  and  inundation  of  the  country  were 
distressing  to  behold.  Left  Lyons,  in  a  little  steamer,  for  Avig- 
non upon  the  Ehone,  not  much  wider  than   a  canal  boat,  but 


20  ON  THE   KHOlSrE. 

very  long  in  proportion,  say  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  It  was 
cold  and  blustering,  blowing  a  hard  gale.  We  descended  rapidly. 
The  steamer  had  no  wheel,  but  four  men  at  the  rudder;  it  was  hard 
to  keep  her  straight.  Passed  the  bridges  and  stone  arches  over 
the  river  with  lightning  speed,  the  inundation  and  current  being 
tremendous.  Struck  an  arch,  and  came  near  being  dashed  to 
pieces;  all  hands  frightened;  the  engineer  said  that  he  had  been 
on  the  river  for  years,  but  never  had  seen  such  a  blow.  Dust 
flew  so,  we  could  scarcely  see  the  shore;  clouds  of  it  covered  rig- 
ging and  deck.  Passed  Vienne,  Yalence,  Tournon,  and  arrived 
at  St.  Esprit.  Great  doubt  expressed  if  we  could  pass  through 
the  arches  of  the  stone  bridge,  but  it  was  done  safely  and 
splendidly.  There  being  no  sleeping  accommodation,  we  went 
ashore  to  get  the  best  lodgings  we  could.  We  found  an  old 
castle  of  a  hotel ;  arched  entrance,  stone  steps  worn  by  time, 
and  replaced  in  part  with  wood;  heavy,  massive  doors  and 
windows  ;  large  chimney  and  fire-places  ;  grape-vines  and  green 
wood  for  fuel ;  violent  wind,  and  cold.  In  the  morning  looked 
around  the  ancient  town,  around  the  fort,  and  crossed  the  nar- 
row stone  bridge,  with  solid,  heavy  abutments,  the  work  of  the 
monks  in  the  middle  ages.  The  steamer  started  at  two  p.m., 
much  to  our  relief,  for  our  wants  were  better  supplied  in  her 
than  ashore.  The  gale  was  over,  and  we  arrived  at  Avignon, 
and  thence  proceeded  to  Aix  and  Marseilles,  where  I  was 
obliged  to  rest  myself  for  a  few  days.  A  funeral  service  next 
door  attracted  my  attention.  First  came  the  Catholic  clergy,  in 
full  robes  ;  next  sisters  of  charity  and  little  girls  ;  then  charity 
boys ;  the  bearers,  all  sturdy,  clod-hoofed  fellows,  covered  with 
coarse  cloth,  and  sacks  over  their  heads,  with  holes  only  for  the 
eyes  ;  candles  and  torches  burning  in  their  hands. 

Passing  through  the  south  of  France,  I  was  struck  with  the 
immense  resources  of  the  country  in  the  vine.  Millions  of  acres 
are  cultivated  with  it  as  the  products  of  the  cereals  are  in  our  own 
country.  The  refuse  and  dried  branches  are  sold  for  fuel  and 
lighting  fires.  The  beauty  of  the  Ehone,with  its  old  towers  and 
castles,  high  peaks  and  mountain  scenery,  amphitheatred  walls, 
and  hanging  gardens,  covered  with  the  vine,  is  remarkable. 
The  limestone  country  approaching  Marseilles  produces  the 
olive  and  fig  in  great  abundance.  The  houses  in  southern 
France  generally  have  tile  or  porcelain  floors,  and  are  very  cold 


MARSEILLES.  21 

at  this  season.  At  Marseilles,  I  saw  the  column  of  Napoleon ; 
it  is  at  the  head  of  the  promenade,  with  a  fine  view  of  the 
harbor. 

A  great  variety  of  character  and  costume  is  found  in  this 
seaport,  and  all  the  different  dialects  are  spoken  ;  Arabs,  Italians, 
Greeks,  Germans,  and  Swiss  abound ;  and  it  is  quite  amusing, 
to  stroll  upon  the  quays. 

I  looked  about  the  city,  and  saw  all  there  was  of  interest.  I 
stopped  at  the  Hotel  d'Orient,  recently  opened,  and  was  glad 
to  get  where  comfort  was  to  be  found.  The  floors  are  all 
of  hexagonal  tile,  glazed  or  polished,  and  slippery ;  the  stairs 
of  the  same,  except  the  projecting  part  of  wood.  Good  table- 
d'hote ;  a  dozen  dishes  of  meat  and  vegetables  come  on  in 
succession,  all  hot.  The  cuisine  in  the  south  of  France  will 
not  compare  with  that  of  Paris.  Dessert  of  native  fruits,  prunes, 
olives,  pears,  apples,  raisins,  figs.  Visited  the  theatre ;  large 
house,  but  poorly  supported  ;  no  style  in  fitting  up  ;  the  outside 
presents  a  fine  front,  but  miserable  inside.  Opera-glasses  in 
general  use.  On  entering,  you  see  women  with  stands  for  coats, 
hats,  sticks,  etc.,  and  a  table  filled  with  opera-glasses  for  hire,  all 
of  which  gives  a  small  emolument  to  these  honest  people.  The 
civility  and  politeness  of  the  French  are  proverbial :  a  glove  or 
a  handkerchief  left  on  your  seat  is  sure  to  be  respected,  and 
your  right  of  place  maintained.  In  comedy  the  French  excel. 
With  two  American  gentlemen,  with  whom  I  crossed  the 
Atlantic,  and  whom  I  now  met  here,  I  dined  at  the  house  of 
our  Consul,  Mr.  Fitch,  who  entertained  us  handsomely. 

The  steamer  Maria  Antoinette  takes  me  to  Genoa. 


22  GENOA. 


184  1. 
YIII. 

Naples,  February  22,  1841. 

After  landing  at  Marseilles  I  proceeded  hj  steamer  to 
Genoa.  On  approaching  the  city  from  the  sea  it  shows  to  great 
advantage.  Its  numerous  and  stately  edifices  resemble  the  seats 
of  a  vast  amphitheatre  placed  on  the  declivity  of  the  Apennines. 
It  is  termed  the  City  of  Palaces,  and  deservedly  so,  as  its 
palaces  are  very  numerous,  and  composed  of  beautiful  marble, 
splendidl}^  adorned  with  noble  entrances  and  elegant  staircases, 
with  floors  of  marble.  Among  the  most  prominent  sights  of  the 
city  are  the  palaces  and  churches.  The  cathedral  of  St.  Lorenzo  is 
an  ancient  Gothic  structure,  built  of  marble,  and  paved  with  the 
same  material.  The  sacristy  contains  an  emerald  vase,  found  at 
Cesarea  when  the  Genoese  captured  that  town,  and  they  chose  it 
in  preference  to  any  other  tribute  offered.  (A.D.  1101.)  This 
vase  is  said  to  have  been  presented  by  the  Queen  of  Sheba  to 
Solomon,  and  deposited  by  him  in  the  temple  at  Jerusalem. 
Napoleon  carried  it  to  Paris  when  he  conquered  the  Genoese, 
but  it  was  afterwards  returned.  I  was  shown  the  mortal  remains 
of  St.  John  the'Baptist,  brought  from  Lycia  and  placed  in  the 
cathedral,  inclosed  in  a  silver  sarcophagus.  The  plate  of  beautiful 
agate  and  gold  which  held  the  head  of  the  saint,  when  presented 
to  Herod,  is  also  exhibited.  The  cross  of  gold  worn  by  Con- 
stantine  was  also  shown.  It  is  two  feet  long,  one  foot  wide,  and 
weighs  almost  ten  pounds,  and  is  filled  with  precious  stones,  and 
contains  a  small  fragment  of  the  true  cross.  I  visited  the  palace 
of  the  king  of  Sardinia,  which  is  a  large  and  magnificent  edifice, 
and  contains  a  large  collection  of  ])aintings,  among  the  most 
remarkable  of  which  is  one  representing  Mary  Magdalen  at  the 
feet  of  our  Saviour  in  the  house  of  the  Pharisee,  by  Paul  Vero- 
nese ;  also  one  of  Titian's,  representing  Christ  bearing  his  cross. 
I  visited  several  other  palaces  where  are  to  be  seen  beautiful  col- 


PISA.  23 

lections  of  paintings.  The  rooms  are  gorgeous.  One  saloon  in 
tlie  palazzo  Serra  is  lined  with  the  most  costly  materials,  white 
marljle,  large  mirrors,  etc.,  with  ornaments  of  precious  stones  and 
the  richest  gilding ;  in  short,  it  combines  taste  with  splendor  in 
its  gorgeous  decorations,  and  is  considered  equal  to  any  single 
saloon  in  Europe. 

From  Genoa  I,  with  two  travelling  companions,  took  private 
carriage  to  Pisa,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles,  pass- 
ing through  several  interesting  towns,  visiting  the  marble  mines 
of  Carrara,  where  are  eighty-five  work-shops,  preparing  statuary 
and  various  kinds  of  work  for  foreign  markets. 

The  scenery  on  this  route  is  enchanting.  Genoa  is  left  in  the 
distance  as  you  wind  along  the  coast  of  the  Mediterranean,  at 
the  base  of  the  Apennines.  Villages  are  continually  presenting 
themselves ;  the  walled  hills  and  mountains  are  filled  with  olives 
and  the  vine,  and  cultivated  to  their  tops.  The  valleys,  beauti- 
fied with  gardens,  produce  an  abundance  of  the  orange,  lemon, 
&c.  On  arriving  at  Pisa,  which  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
Arno,  fourteen  miles  from  Leghorn,  I  visited  all  the  objects 
worthy  of  notice.  One  of  the  most  remarkable  is  the  Leaning 
Tower.  It  is  of  a  circular  form,  one  hundred  and  ninetj^  feet 
high,  and  declines  thirteen  feet  from  perpendicular.  This 
beautiful  structure  was  commenced  in  the  year  1174,  and 
consists  of  eight  stories,  adorned  with  two  hundred  and  seven 
columns  of  granite  and  marble,  many  of  which  have  evidently 
been  taken  from  other  buildings.  The  stairs  leading  up  are 
easy  of  ascent,  and  the  view  extensive. 

The  Campo  Santo,  or  ancient  burial  ground,  a  beautiful 
edifice,  is  a  vast  rectangle,  surrounded  by  sixty-two  light  and 
elegant  Gothic  arcades  of  the  Greco- Arabic  school,  built  of  white 
marble,  and  paved  with  the  same.  It  is  founded  on  a  part  of 
the  earth  brought  from  Mount  Calvary,  by  two  warriors  from 
the  Holy  Land,  and  was  commenced  in  the  year  1200.  The 
interior  walls  are  decorated  with  ancient  fresco-paintings,  statues, 
and  monuments  of  the  best  artists,  bearing  testimony  of  the 
most  distinguished  characters. 

From  Pisa  I  went  to  Leghorn,  a  fine  commercial  city,  with  a 
population  of  sixty  thousand,  and  took  steamer  for  this  city. 

On  entering  the  harbor  of  Naples,  the  city  presents  itself 
beautifully  to  view,  rising  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre,  and 


24  NAPLES. 

crowned  by  the  castle  of  St.  Elmo ;  with  its  noble  bay,  thirty 
miles  in  diameter ;  and  the  island  of  Capri,  rising  in  the  centre. 
The  towns  of  Sorento,  Portici,  Castellamare,  Pozzuoli,  and 
others,  stretching  along  tlie  promontory  right  and  left,  with 
Mount  Vesuvius  "eternally  smoking  in  the  distance,"  at  the  base 
of  which  lie  the  ill  fated  cities  of  Pompeii  and  Ilerculaneum,  all 
of  which  I  shall  visit  in  a  few  days,  and  describe  in  my  next. 
Naples  is  nine  miles  in  circumference,  and  contains  a  population  of 
three  hundred  and  fifty  thousand,  but  with  the  towns  in  the  sub- 
urbs is  said  to  contain  five  hundred  thousand.  On  the  summit  of 
the  hill,  which  is  difiicult  of  ascent,  and  adjoining  the  castle  of  St. 
Elmo,  is  a  convent,  and  the  church  of  San  Martino,  which  is  more 
magnificent  than  any  other  sacred  edifice  in  Naples,  being  rich 
in  gilding,  paintings,  precious  marbles  and  jewels.  The  view 
from  this  spot  is  enchanting.  The  flat-roofed  city,  whose  streets 
appear  like  narrow  footpaths  ;  the  buzz  of  the  inhabitants  who 
seem  like  pigmies ;  carriages  appearing  no  larger  than  children's 
toys,  and  with  difficulty  distinguished ;  on  one  side  the  rich 
Neapolitan  country,  on  another  the  majestic  Apennines,  with 
Vesuvius  in  front,  and  on  the  other  side  the  bay  covered  with 
boats,  and  its  shores  lined  with  villages — the  whole  produces  a 
rich  and  beautiful  sio;ht. 


IX. 

Messina  (Sicily),  March  10,  1841. 
In  my  last,  from  Naples,  I  promised,  after  having  visited 
Mount  Vesuvius  and  the  entombed  cities  of  Pompeii  and  Her- 
culaneum,  to  describe  them.  On  arriving  at  Kesina,  about  five 
miles  distant  from  Naples,  our  party  took  mules  and  donkeys 
and  ascended  to  the  hermitage  by  a  good  mule  path,  occupying 
about  two  hours  time.  Here  we  were  compelled  to  leave  our 
animals,  and  ascend  slowly  and  cautiously  through  masses  of 
lava  for  about  an  hour — an  exceedingly  fatiguing  task.  At 
times  we  were  almost  suffocated  with  the  sulphurous  smoke 
which  seemed  to  burst  forth  in  different  directions.  The  most 
difficult  task  was  in  returning  from  the  mouth  of  the  crater  after 
having  descended  about  twelve  hundred  feet.  It  is  rare  that 
persons  descend  to  the  verge  or  the  mouth  of  the  crater,  and  our 


POMPEII   AND   HERCULANEUM.  25 

guide  was  quite  unwilling  to  attempt  it,  but  our  party  persisted, 
and  it  was  accomplished  with  great  labor.  The  top  of  the 
crater  is  computed  at  two  and  a  half  miles  in  circumference,  and 
at  the  bottom  the  opening  is  about  thirty  feet  in  dia- 
meter, and  ejects  forth  sulphurous  smoke,  with  a  loud  rum- 
bling noise,  resembling  the  escape  of  steam  of  a  Mississippi 
steamer. 

The  distance  from  Naples  to  Pompeii  is  about  twelve  miles. 
The  city  of  Pompeii  was  buried  under  ashes  and  pumice  stones, 
and  deluged  with  showers  of  boiling  water,  in  the  year  79  of  the 
Christian  era,  and  accidentally  discovered  in  1775  by  a  peasant 
while  planting  a  vineyard. 

On  arriving  at  the  gate  we  were  conducted  by  a  guide  through 
part  of  the  town,  already  excavated.  The  streets  are  straight 
and  well  paved  with  lava,  which  prove  an  eruption  previous  to 
the  destruction  of  the  city.  Traces  of  carriage  wheels  still 
remain  in  the  pave.  The  houses  were  generally  two  stories 
high,  and  had  flat  roofs.  The  walls  of  most  of  the  rooms  were 
stuccoed,  painted  and  polished ;  many  of  the  paintings  and 
frescoes  are  in  a  good  state  of  preservation.  The  apartments 
were  paved  with  mosaic,  some  very  magnificently  executed. 
On  many  houses  are  seen  the  name  and  occupation  of  the  owner, 
written  in  deep  red ;  on  the  walls  of  some  public  buildings 
advertisements  of  gladiatorial  shows,  festivals,  &c. 

Here  are  seen  remnants  of  public  baths,  theatres,  amphi- 
theatres, the  Basilica,  the  houses  of  Sallust,  Diomede,  the  temples 
of  Isis,  Hercules,  and  other  gods. 

We  also  visited  Herculaneum,  which  lies  about  five  miles 
from  Naples.  Some  portions  of  the  city  were  buried  six  feet 
deep,  others  one  hundred  feet.  The  towers  of  Resina  and  Portici 
are  built  over  the  city,  which  prevents  much  excavation.  We 
descended  by  torch-light  a  narrow  and  winding  staircase  a  con- 
siderable depth  below  the  surface,  where  part  of  the  theatre  is  exhi- 
bited. It  is  said  that  it  was  capable  of  containing  ten  thousand 
persons.  After  having  visited  most  of  the  objects  of  antiquity  in 
the  city,  I  made  an  excursion  along  the  coast,  visiting  the  tomb  of 
Yirgil,  and  passing  through  the  grotto  of  Posilippo,  which  is  two 
thousand  three  hundred  and  sixty  feet  long,  twenty-three  feet 
broad,  and  eighty-nine  feet  high,  to  the  small  town  of  Pozzuoli, 
where  St.  Paul  lauded  and  remained  seven  da3's  before  com- 


26  PCESTUM. 

mencing  liis  journey  to  Rome.  I  also  visited  tlie  rums  of  the 
ancient  city  of  Baiie,  near  whicli  are  the  ruins  of  Nero's  villa, 
and  the  hot  vapor  baths,  which  will  boil  an  egg  in  two  minutes. 
One  of  my  most  interesting  excursions  was  to  the  ruins  of 
Poestum,  about  forty  miles  from  Naples.  The  disease  called 
malaria,  which  exists  to  an  alarming  extent  in  the  vicinity  of 
this  ruined  city,  prevents  travellers  from  visiting  it  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year.  Persons  should  not  sleep  there,  nor  approach  until 
an  hour  after  sunrise.  We  took  our  supplies  with  us,  as  nothing 
can  be  obtained  in  this  land  of  solitude  and  silence.  Our  sym- 
pathies were  excited  and  charity  exercised  by  seeing  many 
squalid  and  wretched  objects  of  malaria  lying  in  huts  upon  the 
bare  ground.  This  city  was  supposed  to  have  been  built  seven 
hundred  and  twenty  years  before  Christ,  and  to  have  been 
destro^^ed  in  the  tenth  century  by  the  Saracens.  Here  are  some 
of  the  finest  ruins  of  temples  in  Europe.  One,  called  the  temple 
of  Neptune,  is  very  majestic.  Its  shape  is  quadrilateral,  length 
one  hundred  and  ninety-four  feet,  and  breadth  seventy-eight 
feet ;  and  it  has  two  fronts,  with  six  minute  fluted  columns 
of  the  Grecian  Doric  order.  The  exterior  columns,  thirty-six  in 
number,  are  twenty-seven  feet  high,  and  there  is  a  Doric  frieze 
and  cornice  all  round  the  building.  The  situation  of  the  high 
altar,  and  those  on  which  victims  were  sacrificed  and  offerings 
made,  is  still  visible.  Fragments  of  sea-green  and  dark  blue 
mosaic  are  still  found  on  the  spot.  The  temple  of  Ceres  and  the 
Basilica  are  still  quite  perfect  and  very  beautiful.  On  our  return 
through  this  gloomy  tract  of  country  and  pestilent  swamps  we  saw 
herds  of  buffalo,  which  are  the  only  animals  that  inhabit  it.  I 
next  visited  the  towns  of  Salerno  and  Amalfi,  situated  along  the 
shores  of  the  Mediterranean.  The  latter  is  bounded  by  lofty 
mountains  on  three  sides,  with  beautiful  cascades  running 
through  the  town.  The  front  opens  on  the  sea.  On  the  summit 
of  a  lofty  wall  is  the  Capuchin  convent,  which  we  visited,  and 
then  crossed  the  mountain  of  St.  Angelo,  over  a  height  of  four 
or  five  thousand  feet.  The  route  was  difficult,  but  we  were 
compensated  for  the  fatigue  by  the  many  picturesque  scenes 
constantly  presented.  At  times  the  ascent  was  so  rough  among 
the  craggy  rocks  I  was  compelled  to  dismount  my  donkey ;  at 
other  times  he  would  wind  his  course  along  the  brink  of  a  fright- 
ful precipice,  where  one  mis-step  would  launch  me  into  eternity. 


MESSINA.  27 

He  proved  as  sure-footed  as  the  herds  of  goats  we  frequently 
passed,  jumping  from  one  crag  to  another  on  the  verge  of  a  pre- 
cipice. 

I  left  Naples  by  steamer,  stopping  at  Tropea,  in  Calabria,  for 
a  short  time  ;  then,  passing  down  through  the  straits  of  Messina, 
we  saw  Scylla  and  Charybdis,  which  have  been  the  dread  of 
mariners  so  long,  and  about  which  so  much  has  been  said  and 
sung.  It  is  said  that  during  tempestuous  gales,  the  noise  of  the 
waves  dashing  violently  against  Scylla,  and  then  precipitating 
themselves  in  the  cavern,  still  resembles  the  howl  of  dogs  and 
beasts  of  prey.  The  rapidity  of  the  current  here  is  very  great, 
and  the  boiling  eddies  very  strong.  On  passing  the  mountain 
of  Stromboli,  not  far  distant  from  Scylla,  situated  in  the  sea,  I 
was  struck  with  the  beautiful  eruption  and  ejection  of  fire, 
smoke,  and  red-hot  stones,  thrown  up  at  intervals  of  fifteen 
minutes — a  beautiful  sight  in  the  nisrht. 


X. 

Catania,  Sicily,  March  27,  1841. 

I  wrote  you  at  Messina  on  the  10th  inst.  That  city  is  delight- 
fully situated,  partly  on  an  eminence  and  partly  on  a  plain, 
surrounded  by  a  luxuriant  country,  abounding  with  oranges, 
lemons,  and  many  other  tropical  fruits.  The  population  was, 
at  one  time,  eighty  thousand,  but  it  is  now  somewhat  reduced. 
It  is  said  that  the  plague  of  1743  carried  off  fifty  thousand  of 
its  inhabitants,  and  the  earthquake  of  1783  nearly  destroyed  its 
beautiful  quays  in  a  few  minutes,  levelled  its  finest  buildings, 
and  killed  one  thousand  persons.  The  city,  as  now  rebuilt,  has 
magnificent  quays  and  a  very  pretty  harbor.  The  walls  of  the 
present  buildings  are  very  massive,  and  usually  from  two  to 
three  stories  high,  to  resist  the  shocks  of  earthquakes,  which 
they  are  still  subject  to.  I  omitted  to  state  in  my  last  that  I  had 
experienced  one  slight  shock  since  I  had  been  in  this  latitude. 

After  remaining  a  sufiiciently  long  time  at  Messina  to  see  all 
the  objects  of  interest,  and  its  beautiful  sunrises,  I  took  a 
steamer  for  the  city  of  Palermo,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles.  The  approach  to  the  city  presents  fine  scenery. 
The  mountains  which  form  the  background,  the  deep  blue  sea. 


28  PALERMO. 

whence  rise  tlie  most  picturesque  rocks  imaginable,  the  luxu- 
riant plains  immediately  surrounding  the  city,  altogether,  are 
peculiarly  striking.  The  city  has  a  gay  and  Asiatic  appearance, 
and  the  architecture  is  of  the  Saracenic,  Grreek,  and  Eoman 
styles.  It  is  one  of  the  most  regular  built  cities  I  have  yet  seen, 
and  has  a  population  of  two  hundred  thousand.  The  Strada 
Toledo,  which  is  about  a  mile  in  length,  wide,  clean,  and  well 
paved,  intersects  another  street  of  the  same  character  at  right 
angles,  and  leads  into  a  handsome  octangular  piazza  called 
Quatro  Cantori,  from  the  centre  of  which  both  parts  of* each 
street  and  the  four  principal  gates  of  the  city,  are  visible.  The 
number  of  nunneries  is  immense.  The  basements  of  these — 
many  of  ttiem  in  the  principal  streets — are  occupied  as  shops, 
while  the  upper  stories  are  the  apartments  of  the  nuns,  as  may 
be  discovered  by  the  long,  grated,  projecting  galleries. 

The  church  of  the  Capuchins,  about  a  mile  distant  from  the 
city,  attracts  the  attention  of  travellers.  Here  we  descended 
into  an  immense  vault,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in 
length,  and  probably  sixty  in  width,  which  is  used  as  a  dejDOsi- 
tory  for  the  defunct  brethren.  They  are  dried,  dressed,  and 
placed  upright  in  railings  against  the  wall,  that  their  friends  may 
visit  and  pray  by  them  annually,  on  the  second  of  November. 
These  catacombs  also  contain  the  vaults  with  iron  doors  where 
the  body  is  placed  and  dried  for  six  months ;  at  the  end  of 
which  time  it  is  clad  in  its  usual  habiliments,  and  placed  with 
the  general  assembly.  The  floors  are  covered  with  coffins  inclos- 
ing the  remains  of  persons  not  in  holy  orders.  In  one  cofiin  I 
saw  the  late  viceroy,  who  had  been  embalmed  seven  months, 
and  was  in  good  preservation.  In  one  apartment  are  shelves 
devoted  to  females,  who  are  disposed  of  in  glass  cases,  and  are 
richly  dressed,  and  decorated  with  ornaments.  This  apartment 
must  contain  several  thousands.  The  atmosphere  is  not  alto- 
gether agreeable,  and  the  grim-visaged  defunct  monks  contribute 
not  a  little  to  make  the  sight  appalling  and  disgusting. 

Having  finished  our  observations  with  the  dead,  we  next 
visited  the  palace  of  the  king,  which  is  rich  in  marbles,  mosaics, 
fresco  paintings,  tapestry,  &c.,  and  then  made  an  excursion  to 
the  Chinese  villa,  called  "  La  Favorif.a,^^  the  summer  residence 
of  the  king  of  Naples  and  Sicily,  while  at  Palermo.  Tlie 
grounds  are  beautiful,  inclosing  splendid  drives,  four  miles  in 


CATANIA.  29 

extent,  embellished  with  fountains,  thickets,  labyrinths,  all  varie- 
ties of  tropical  fruits,  &c.  The  palace  is  purely  Chinese  in 
construction,  in  furniture,  and  in  decorations. 

After  having  examined  most  of  the  prominent  sights  of  the 
city,  we  chartered  a  private  carriage,  to  take  the  route  from 
Palermo  to  Catania,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  sixty-eight 
miles.  The  tour  of  Sicily  is  not  generally  made  by  travelling 
about  the  island,  as  it  is  attended  with  great  fatigue  and  expos- 
ure, and  want  of  accommodation ;  the  usual  mode  of  travel 
being  on  mules  and  donkeys. 

In  the  principal  cities  all  the  comforts  required  by  a  traveller 
can  be  obtained,  but  in  the  interior  the  estates  are  large  and 
owned  by  few,  the  peasants  poor  and  living  mostly  in  villages, 
going  for  miles  to  perform  the  labors  of  the  day,  instead  of 
having  farm-houses  scattered  along  the  road.  The  accommoda- 
tions to  be  found  are  of  the  worst  character.  But  we  passed  through 
a  delightful  country,  with  all  the  variety  of  mountain  scenery. 
Sicily  was  once  denominated  the  granary  of  Eome,  and  some 
writers  say  that  hounds  lost  their  scent  in  hunting  over  Sicilian 
heaths,  on  account  of  the  odoriferous  floM'ers  which  perfumed 
the  air.  This  is  the  most  delightful  season  of  the  year  for  tra- 
velling here,  as  the  green  almond  trees  are  in  blossom,  the 
weather  delightfully  warm,  and  the  flowers  abundant.  On 
our  route  we  saw  immense  pasturages  and  herds  of  sheep  on 
the  mountains,  attended  by  faithful  shepherds  with  their  crooks 
and  watch-dogs.  At  sunset  the  sheep  are  all  gathered  to  the 
folds. 

The  city  of  Catania  was  greatly  injured  by  an  eruption  of 
Mount  Etna  in  1669,  and  almost  destroyed  by  the  earthquake 
of  1693,  when  most  of  the  inhabitants  were  buried  under  the 
ruins  of  their  houses  and  churches.  But  it  rose  rapidly,  and 
now  has  a  population  of  seventy  thousand.  It  is  regularly  and 
handsomely  built,  and  the  streets  are  paved  with  the  lava  of 
Mount  Etna. 

So  terrible  have  been  the  eruptions  that  parts  of  the  city 
have  been  buried  sixty  feet  deep  with  the  burning  lava.  Ex- 
cavations have  been  made  in  many  places,  and  one  of  the  number 
I  visited,  and  descended  sixty-three  steps,  when  I  came  to  the 
original  earth  and  a  spring  of  water.  In  another  place  the  ex- 
cavation exhibits  the  ancient  Greek  Theatre  with  its  corridors, 


30  MOUNT   ETNA. 

rows  of  seats,  and  other  fixtures.  In  another  place  may  be  seen 
the  remains  of  an  amphitheatre,  with  its  dens  for  wild  beasts, 
and  aqueducts  for  water,  far  below  the  surface  on  which  the 
present  city  is  built.  It  is  necessary  to  descend  with  torches. 
All  these  things  render  it  probable,  if  not  certain,  that  Catania 
shared  the  fate  of  Herculaueum  and  Pompeii,  in  ancient  times 
as  well  as  in  modern. 

Since  our  party  arrived  here  we  have  made  an  excursion  up 
Mount  Etna.  Having  each  provided  ourselves  with  a  mule, 
and  one  extra  to  carry  supplies,  we  set  out  on  a  lovely  morning 
for  Nicholosi,  a  small  settlement,  twelve  miles  up  the  mountain 
from  Catania.  The  first  part  of  the  route  presented  a  luxuriant 
and  beautiful  country  abounding  with  vineyards,  olives,  figs, 
oranges,  limes,  and  almonds.  Vegetation  was  far  advanced ;  the 
soil  was  very  rich  from  the  vast  quantity  of  lava,  cinders,  and  ashes 
which  covered  this  extensive  tract  of  country  at  the  time  of  the 
eruption,  and  the  destruction  of  Catania.  On  starting  the  wea- 
ther appeared  highly  favorable  for  the  entire  ascent,  but  on 
arriving  at  Mcholosi  the  guide  declined  going  up  to  the  summit, 
as  the  sky  indicated  a  snow-storm,  in  which,  if  caught,  we  could 
not  possibly  be  saved  at  this  season  of  the  year.  We  therefore 
only  ascended  to  the  top  of  what  is  called  Monte  Eossi,  the 
volcano  that  destroyed  Catania  in  1669,  and  covered  the  country 
with  lava  for  thirty  or  forty  miles. 

The  summit  of  Mount  Etna  is  always  covered  with  snows. 
Before  we  returned  we  found  that  the  snow-storm  had  com- 
menced, and  rejoiced  that  we  had  escaped.  At  the  height  we 
attained  we  lost  sight  of  all  vegetation,  nothing  being  visible 
but  lava,  cinders,  and  ashes. 


XI. 

Rome,  April,  1841. 
I  wrote  you  last  from  Catania,  Sicily.  On  leaving  that  city 
for  Messina  we  passed  through  a  fine  country  bordering  on  the 
Mediterranean,  and  stopped  at  Gardina,  a  small  fishing  town, 
prettily  situated,  with  a  fine  view  of  the  Straits  of  Messina  and 
the  shores  of  Calabria.  The  following  morning  we  took  don- 
keys, which  were  simjDly  provided  with  rope  halters  and  sheep- 


ALBANO.  31 

skins  for  saddles,  and  proceeded  to  Taormina,  an  ancient  Roman 
city,  celebrated  for  its  antiquities.  It  is  situated  on  the  top  of 
a  high  rock,  crowned  with  an  ancient  Saracenic  castle.  Pre- 
eminent among  the  antiquities  is  the  theatre,  a  colossal  edifice 
located  in  a  singular  hollow  in  the  upper  part  of  the  rock.  The 
ascent  to  the  top  is  about  two  miles,  and  is  very  steep. 

We  next  arrived  at  Messina,  passing  through  a  luxuriant 
country  abounding  in  all  the  tropical  fruits,  and  from  Messina 
came  by  steamboat  to  Naples.  On  the  route  from  Naples  to 
Rome  the  first  object  of  particular  interest  was  in  diverging 
from  the  present  town  of  Capua  to  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  city, 
where  are  the  remains  of  one  of  the  largest  amphitheatres  I 
have  yet  seen,  and  a  part  of  it  is  quite  perfect.  It  is  said  to 
have  contained  four  hundred  gladiators,  and  the  school  of  gladia- 
tors amounted  to  four  thousand  in  number.  Cicero  described 
it  as  holding  one  hundred  thousand  spectators.  It  was  one 
thousand  seven  hundred  and  eighty  feet  in  circuit,  one  hundred 
and  forty  feet  high  ;  length  of  arena  two  hundred  and  ninety-four 
feet,  width  one  hundred  and  seventy-six.  On  the  road  we  saw  the 
cenotaph  of  Cicero,  placed  on  the  spot  where  he  was  murdered 
while  endeavoring  to  escape  from  his  enemies. 

On  entering  the  Pope's  dominions  we  had  our  baggage  rigo- 
rously examined.  We  halted  at  the  town  of  Albano,  fourteen 
miles  from  Rome.  Here  are  several  subjects  worthy  of  atten- 
tion. A  large  monument  supposed  to  have  been  erected  by 
Pompey,  to  inclose  the  ashes  of  his  wife  Julia,  daughter  of 
Caesar ;  the  lake  of  Albano,  an  extinct  volcano,  six  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, and  four  hundred  and  eighty  feet  in  depth ;  castle 
Gendolfo,  a  village  built  in  the  lava,  stands  on  the  top  of  the 
hill,  and  here  the  Pope  has  a  summer  residence.  It  is  a  beauti- 
ful location,  and  the  walks  through  the  avenues  of  shady  trees 
are  delightful.  From  this  point  I  first  caught  sight  of  St. 
Peter's,  the  first  view  of  Rome.  On  arriving  in  the  truly 
wonderful  city  my  first  desire  was  to  see  the  great  Basilica,  St. 
Peter's,  far  surpassing  any  other  in  the  world,  in  size,  splendor, 
and  magnificence.  The  length  of  the  church  in  the  interior  is 
six  hundred  and  fourteen  feet ;  the  front  is  three  hundred  and 
seventy  feet,  and  one  hundred  and  forty-nine  feet  high,  orna- 
mented with  columns  of  the  Corinthian  order,  each  column 
eight   feet   in    diameter   and  eighty-eight  feet  in  height.     The 


32  ST.  Peter's  and  the  Vatican 

front  terminates  with  a  balustrade  surmounted  by  thirteen  colos- 
sal statues,  seventeen  feet  high,  representing  our  Saviour  and 
his  Apostles.  The  width  of  the  nave  is  two  hundred  and  seven 
feet ;  diameter  of  cupola  one  hundred  and  thirty-nine ;  height 
from  the  pavement  to  first  gallery  one  hundred  and  seventy- 
four;  to  second  gallery  two  hundred  and  forty;  to  the  repre- 
sentation of  the  Deity  in  the  Lantern  three  hundred  and  ninety- 
three  ;  and  to  the  summit  of  the  eastern  cross  four  hundred  and 
thirty-eight  feet. 

The  interior  is  adorned  with  rare  marble,  columns,  statuary, 
gilding,  and  solid  bronze,  gold  and  silver,  the  sacred  Confession- 
al with  one  hundred  superb  and  elegant  lamps,  always  burning. 
In  the  year  1694  this  edifice  was  supposed  to  have  cost  forty- 
seven  millions  dollars,  since  which  time  immense  amounts  have 
been  expended  in  mosaics,  statuar}^,  &c. 

Under  St.  Peter's  is  a  subterranean  church  built  by  Constan- 
tine.  Here  are  many  tombs  of  the  Popes,  and  that  of  Char- 
lotte, Queen  of  Jerusalem.  The  height  of  this  subterranean 
church  is  twelve  feet,  and  the  pavement  the  same  as  in  the  days 
of  Constantine.  The  ascent  to  the  top  of  St.  Peter's  is  not  dif- 
ficult, and  there  may  be  liad  a  magnificent  view  of  the  city  and 
country. 

The  Vatican,  which  is  a  city  of  itself,  contiguous  to  St.  Peter's, 
contains  some  thousands  of  rooms,  variously  estimated.  It  is 
seventy  thousand  feet  in  circumstances.  Some  writera  suppose 
it  was  erected  by  Nero,  others  are  of  opinion  that  it  was  built 
by  Constantine ;  but  every  sovereign  extended  it.  It  is  the 
residence  of  the  Popes,  in  which  are  the  Latin  Chapel,  the  Pau- 
line Chapel,  also  occupied  with  the  most  extensive  collection  of 
statuary,  paintings,  bronzes,  &c.,  in  the  world ;  and  here  we  saw 
the  master-pieces  of  the  world,  as  Eome  may  justly  be  called 
the  mistress  of  the  globe  in  the  arts.  Here  are  rooms  twelve 
hundred  feet  long  used  as  libraries,  and  for  the  collections 
of  the  museums. 

Eome  contains  such  a  vast  variety  of  antiquities  that  one  is 
compelled  to  be  very  industrious  to  accomplish  much  in  seeing 
the  objects  of  interest  unless  two  or  three  months  are  spent  in  the 
work.  It  is  impossible  to  give  an  adequate  description  of  the 
manifold  objects  of  curiosity  in  this  wonderful  city. 

I  visited  the  Coliseum  first  by  moonlight,  which  gives  a  very 


THE   COLISEUM   AND   PANTHEON.  33 

pretty  effect ;  the  pale  light  throws  a  beautiful  shadow,  and 
leaves  the  imagination  to  cover  the  defects.  It  is  an  immense 
edifice,  Titus  at  the  consecration  exhibited  gladiatorial  shows 
ten  days,  and  five  thousand  wild  beasts  with  some  thousands  of 
gladiators  are  said  to  have  been  sacrificed  at  the  horrid  festival. 
It  was  opened  in  the  year  80.  It  is  of  an  oval  form,  one  thousand 
six  hundred  and  forty-one  feet  in  circumference,  and  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty-seven  feet  high ;  the  arena  is  four  hundred  and 
eighty-five  feet  long,  and  one  hundred  and  eighty-two  wide.  It 
was  four  years  in  building.  The  benches  held  eighty-seven 
thousand,  and  the  gallery  twenty  thousand  spectators. 

The  Pantheon  is  a  beautiful  structure,  and  has  so  well  resisted 
the  ravages  of  time  that  it  is  in  quite  a  perfect  state.  The  front 
and  sides  of  the  portico  contain  sixteen  Corinthian  columns  of 
red  ornamented  granite,  each  fourteen  feet  in  circumference  and 
thirty-nine  feet  high,  with  bases  and  capitals  of  white  marble. 
The  portico  is  surmounted  by  an  entablature  and  pediment 
finely  proportioned.  The  inside  is  circular,  one  hundred  and 
thirty-four  feet  in  diameter;  the  walls  are  nineteen  feet  thick, 
with  an  opening  in  the  top  twenty -six  feet  wide.  Verde-antique, 
porphyry,  and  other  valuable  marbles  are  everywhere  promi*- 
nent.  The  dome  was  originally  lined  with  bronze,  but  it  was 
taken  by  Pope  Urban  Eighth  to  make  the  great  canopy  over  the 
high  altar  of  St.  Peter's. 

Among  the  many  other  objects  of  interest  the  most  conspicu- 
ous are  the  ancient  Forum,  the  arch  of  Constantine,  the  arch  of 
Titus,  temples  of  various  heathen  gods,  the  tombs  of  Scipio, 
the  palaces  of  the  Ctesars,  the  baths  of  Titus  and  Caracalla, 
Trajan's  column,  the  Mausoleum  of  Augustus,  and  the  Mauso- 
leum of  Adrian.  The  latter  was  erected  by  the  Emperor  Adrian 
to  be  a  deposit  for  his  remains;  it  is  now  converted  into  the 
Castle  of  San  Angelo,  and  occupied  by  the  military  on  the 
banks  of  the  Tiber.  The  bridge  that  leads  to  it  is  surmounted 
by  the  figures  of  many  angels,  bearing  in  their  hands  the  instru- 
ments of  torture  said  to  have  been  used  at  the  crucifixion  of 
our  Savior.  Near  the  Campidolio,  which  contains  a  vast  collec- 
tion of  antiquities,  is  the  Tarpeian  Eock,  celebrated  as  the  place 
from  which  the  ancient  Komans  executed  their  criminals  by 
throwing  them  headlong  down  the  precipice. 

Near  the  Temples  of  Concord,  Jupiter,  and  Fortune,  is  situat- 


34  ROME. 

ed  the  prison  in  which  St.  Peter  and  St,  Paul  were  confined 
with  forty-seven  other  prisoners.  A  hght  is  kept  burning  con- 
tinually in  one  of  the  cells,  in  which  are  an  altar,  and  figures  of 
the  saints  on  a  side  screen.  You  descend  by  torchlight  into  a 
vault  or  prison,  on  one  side  of  which  in  passing  down  you  see 
the  grated  iron  window  through  which  the  prisoners  looked, 
and  near  it  is  the  iron  frame  to  which  they  were  bound.  Here 
also,  far  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  is  the  living  stream 
which  gushed  up  for  the  baptism  of  the  convicts  after  their  con- 
version, and  which  now  in  case  of  severe  droughts  never  fails  to 
flow. 

In  visiting  the  immense  ruins  of  the  palace  of  Caesar  we 
descended  by  torchlight  to  the  baths  of  Livia,  where  are  seen 
the  remains  of  stucco  and  fresco  work  in  the  wall,  arabesques, 
medallions,  &c,  Near  this  place  on  the  hill,  we  had  a  view  of 
the  seven  hills  of  Eome,  and  looked  down  upon  the  Forum, 
Senate  House,  and  on  the  other  side  the  Circus  Maximus,  which 
extended  for  miles,  and  held  in  the  time  of  Constantino  three 
hundred  and  eighty  thousand  persons.  It  was  used  for  horse 
and  chariot  races,  as  well  as  feats  of  wrestling,  boxing,  combats 
with  wild  beasts,  and  other  exercises  to  improve  the  Roman 
youth. 

Rome,  according  to  the  published  statistics,  contains  six  hun- 
dred and  thirty-five  palaces,  three  hundred  and  twenty-eight 
churches,  fifty  public  fountains,  one  hundred  small  fountains, 
thirty-four  bishops,  one  thousand  four  hundred  and  sixty-eight 
priests,  two  thousand  one  hundred  and  eighteen  monks,  one 
thousand  four  hundred  and  seventeen  young  monks,  one  hun- 
dred and  fourteen  convents,  thirteen  obelisks,  and  sixteen  city 
gates.  The  ancient  Romans  had  aqueducts  to  convey  to  the 
city  eight  hundred  tons  of  water  daily.  Three  of  them  still 
remain,  one  of  which  supplies  the  Vatican  and  the  fountains  in 
front  of  St.  Peter's,  and  is  thirty  miles  in  length.  Another  is 
twenty-two  miles  long.  The  ancient  mistress  of  the  world, 
reduced  as  she  now  is  in  size,  population,  wealth,  and  power,  still 
has  her  stately  palaces,  noble  churches,  splendid  fountains,  stu- 
pendous obelisks  of  Egyptian  character,  matchless  amphithea- 
tres, and  almost  innumerable  antiquities,  with  their  classical 
associations,  which  can  never  fail  to  attract  strangers  from  all 
enlightened  quarters  of  the  globe,  to  say  nothing  of  the  finest 


VIENNA.  35 

modern  works  of  art,  to  be  found  almost  everywhere,  and  in 
which  she  is  unrivalled. 


XIL 

Vienna,  Austria,  Jum  25,  1841. 

I  PROMISED  to  give  you  some  account  of  this  beautiful  city 
and  the  characteristics  of  the  government  and  people.  The 
registers  kept  at  the  police  are  so  accurate  and  full  that  the  his- 
tory of  a  person  from  his  birth,  his  changes  of  abode,  his  jour- 
neyings,  in  fact  all  his  movements,  are  ascertained  with  perfect 
precision,  so  arbitrary  and  jealous  is  the  government.  No  Aus- 
trian is  allowed  to  leave  the  empire  unless  by  making  a  deposit 
of  five  hundred  florins,  or  giving  security  to  that  amount,  to 
indemnify  his  return.  The  consequence  is  that  we  seldom  see 
them  in  America.  I  find  no  Americans  here  at  present.  It  is 
a  fine  country  for  a  stranger  to  reside  in,  but  he  must  not  meddle 
with  affairs  of  state — if  he  does  so  he  must  not  be  surprised  if  an 
officer  hands  him  his  passport  with  orders  to  leave  the  empire 
instantl}''. 

The  expenses  of  living  are  one  third  higher  here  than  in 
Paris.  You  find  no  table  dlwtc  at  the  hotels,  but  merely  take  a 
lodging  room,  and  then  have  your  meals  at  the  restauraunt  con- 
nected with  the  hotel,  or  where  you  please.  The  city  abounds 
with  cafes^  which  are  resorted  to  by  all  classes.  In  these  esta- 
blishments you  are  almost  constantly  enveloped  in  smoke,  as 
every  one  uses  a  pipe  or  cigars.  There  are  some  cafes  in  which 
smoking  is  not  allowed. 

At  this  season  of  the  year,  to  escape  the  heat,  a  general  resort 
is  had  to  the  different  gardens,  where  you  find  innumerable 
tables  spread  in  the  open  air  under  the  trees,  in  the  hearing  of 
bands  of  music,  and  occupied  by  well  dressed,  orderly  people  df 
both  sexes.     The  city  is  highly  favored  with  shade  trees. 

Vienna  has  been  pronounced  by  travellers  the  most  dissolute 
capital  in  Europe.  But  in  this  I  should  think  there  was  much 
exaggeration.  There  is,  at  all  events,  none  of  that  open  display 
of  vice  that  disgraces  Paris  and  London.  Violations  of  the  peace 
are  said  to  be  rare,  and  you  seldom  see  a  drunken  man.  No 
public  gambling  is  allowed.     In  the  public  walks  and  gardens 


36  THE   JEWEL   OFFICE. 

all  seem  to  be  alike  merry  and  happy — feasting,  dancing,  and 
amusements  being  the  order  of  the  day.  London  is  celebrated 
for  its  wealth,  Paris  for  its  beauty  and  gaiety,  but  Vienna  for 
all  these  characteristics. 

In  a  former  letter  I  stated  that  I  had  visited  the  vault  of  a 
Capuchin  convent,  where  the  remains  of  the  royal  family  are 
deposited.  There  are  in  all  seventy  metal  coffins ;  the  oldest  is 
of  the  Emperor  Matthias ;  the  most  splendid  is  that  of  Margaret 
of  Spain,  being  of  pure  silver ;  the  most  interesting  is  that  of 
young  Napoleon,  Duke  of  Reichstadt.  A  singular  custom 
they  have  here  in  disposing  of  the  remains  of  the  royal  family. 
The  body  is  deposited  in  one  place,  the  bowels  in  the  cathedral, 
and  the  heart  in  a  silver  urn  in  the  church  of  the  Augustins.  I 
visited  the  latter,  and  had  the  urn  containing  the  young  Napo- 
leon's heart  in  my  hand,  and  also  that  having  the  heart  of  his 
grandfather,  the  late  Emperor. 

The  imperial  jewel  office  surpasses  all  sights  of  that  kind  I 
have  ever  witnessed.  Here  are  riches  unbounded.  Among  the 
prominent  objects  is  the  crown  of  Charlemagne,  consisting  of 
gold,  diamonds,  and  precious  stones,  taken  from  his  grave  at 
Aix-la-Chapelle.  It  was  used  at  the  coronation  of  many  Roman 
Emperors.  There  are  also  the  crown  worn  by  Napoleon  at  his 
coronation  at  Milan  as  King  of  Lombardy,  the  entire  Austrian 
crown,  necklaces,  and  jewels  of  all  kinds.  Six  large  rooms  are 
used  to  display  them,  with  many  other  articles,  including  robes, 
sceptres,  orbs,  and  shelves  filled  with  precious  stones — the 
largest  diamond  in  the  world,  weighing  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
three  carats,  gold  vases,  basins,  the  gold  and  silver  cradle  of 
young  Napoleon,  &c.  Here  is  also  preserved  a  variety  of 
sacred  relics,  a  piece  of  the  holy  cross,  the  spear  and  nails  of  the 
cross  used  at  the  coronation  of  the  Roman  Emperor,  a  piece  of 
the  table-cloth  spread  for  the  Lord's  Supper,  three  links  of  the 
chain  of  St.  Peter,  Paul,  and  John,  and  so  many  other  objects 
displaying  the  superstitions  of  the  people  and  the  extravagance 
of  the  government,  that  a  mere  enumeration  of  them  is  out 
of  the  question. 

The  Imperial  Arsenal  is  the  finest  I  ever  saw,  far  surpassing 
anything  of  the  kind  in  London  or  Paris.  It  is  an  immense 
building,  the  court  of  which  is  filled  with  cannon  of  all  sizes,  the 
largest  being  twenty-four  feet  long,  and  carrying  one  hundred 


THE   ROYAL   CARRIAGES.  37 

and  twenty-four  pound  balls.  A  chain  goes  round  the  entire 
square  where  the  building  stands,  hung  in  festoons  of  immense 
size ;  it  contains  eight  thousand  links,  and  was  taken  from  the 
Turks,  who  had  thrown  it  across  the  Danube. 

In  the  upper  rooms  of  the  building  are  tastefully  displayed 
one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  stand  of  arms,  in  all  forms  and 
figures,  so  as  to  present  a  beautiful  decoration,  while  at  tlie  same 
time  they  are  ready  for  use.  Columns  which  to  appearance  sup- 
port the  halls,  are  all  of  warlike  instruments.  You  see  the  large 
double-headed  eagle,  the  arms  of  Austria,  from  twelve  to  fifteen 
feet  long,  with  out-stretched  wings,  all  composed  of  instruments 
of  warfare  beautifully  arranged. 

The  coach  establishment  of  the  royal  family  is  scarcely  less 
magnificent  than  the  great  arsenal.  I  thought  the  coaches  and 
equipages  of  the  Pope  of  Rome  must  be  superior  to  tliose  of  any 
other  potentate,  but  those  of  the  Emperor  of  Austria  surpass 
them.  There,  are  about  thirty  large  and  small  coaches,  all  glit- 
tering with  gold.  The  largest  of  the  number  corresponds  in  size 
with  an  American  stage  coach  ;  the  wheels,  pole,  and  all  but  the 
body,  being  covered  with  plated  gold,  the  driver's  and  footmen's 
seats  covered  with  scarlet  velvet,  the  inside  lined  with  the  same 
material,  and  the  body  painted  after  the  design  of  Rubens,  with 
beautiful  characters  and  emblematic  figures,  and  finished  in  a 
style  that  cannot  be  excelled  in  beauty.  On  the  top  is  an 
immense  crown  of  gold,  which  serves  as  a  grand  finish  of  the 
efforts  for  grandeur.  The  painting  alone  cost  thirty  thousand 
dollars,  the  whole  vehicle  ninety  thousand  dollars !  It  is  used 
but  twice  a  year,  and  is  one  hundred  and  twenty  years  old. 
Such  is  some  of  the  pomp  and  pageantry  of  crowned  heads,  and, 
after  all,  what  wretched  governments,  compared  with  our 
enlightened  republic,  do  they  give  the  people  ! 

The  Emperor  is,  however,  a  plain  man,  beloved  by  his  people. 
He  gives  audience  one  day  in  the  week  to  all  who  choose  to 
make  application  beforehand  in  writing.  He  usually  sets  the 
example  of  dining  at  one  o'clock,  and,  as  a  consequence,  that  is 
the  fashionable  dinner  hour  in  the  city.  He  is  a  regular  attend- 
ant on  Divine  service  in  his  own  chapel  connected  with  the 
palace.  But  any  citizen  can  go  and  see,  at  certain  times,  what  is 
called  his  private  side-box,  where  he  do2S  no  business  and 
observes  few  ceremonies. 


88  AUSTRIAN"  APPRENTICES. 

Since  my  arrival  liere  I  have  tested  tlie  qualities  of  the 
mineral  baths,  which  are  the  resort  of  thousands  at  this  season 
of  the  year.  The  warm  springs  contain  large  portions  of 
sulphur,  are  strongly  impregnated  with  carbonic  acid  gas,  and 
are  very  extensive. 

Among  other  curiosities  worthy  of  attention,  in  a  public 
square  near  the  centre  of  the  city,  is  the  trunk  of  an  old  tree, 
the  only  one  remaining  of  an  ancient  forest,  which  occupied  half 
the  ground  now  covered  with  buildings.  It  has  several  iron 
hoops  to  aid  in  preserving  it,  and  as  it  has  been  the  custom  of 
apprentices  on  setting  out  on  a  journey  to  drive  a  nail  in  it  by 
way  of  memorial,  it  has  become  so  filled  with  nails  that  there 
is  no  place  left  to  drive  another.  It  has  the  appearance  of,  and 
is  called,  "the  tree  of  iron,"  and  gives  its  name  to  the  square  in 
which  it  stands. 

"With  regard  to  apprentices,  Austria  has  some  peculiar  regula- 
tions. The  law  compels  them  to  travel  in  the  empire  two  years 
in  search  of  employment,  and  to  gain  information.  They  can 
enter  any  city  and  apply  to  the  head  of  a  committee  for  employ- 
ment. If  none  can  be  obtained  they  are  provided  for,  but  can 
remain  only  two  days,  before  they  must  travel  again.  They  are 
required  to  keep  a  journal  of  all  the  places  visited  and  bring 
back  testimonials  of  character.  When  their  time  has  expired 
they  return  home  and  pass  an  examination ;  if  pronounced  wor- 
thy, they  are  then  allowed  to  open  a  shop.  In  consequence  of 
this  regulation  it  is  not  uncommon  to  see  fine-looking  young 
men,  with  packs  on  their  backs,  come  up  to  a  coach  door  and 
beg  for  any  trifle  of  money,  which  their  necessities  drive  them 
to  solicit,  and  it  is  a  rule  with  the  Austrians  always  to  aid  them 
liberallv. 


xin. 

Pest,  Hungary,  July  2,  1841. 
My  last  letter  was  from  Vienna,  which  city  we  left  a  few  days 
since  for  the  capital  of  Hungary.  We  took  a  steamer  on  the 
Danube,  about  three  miles  from  Vienna,  and  descended  to  Pres- 
burg,  about  fifty  miles.  The  navigation  of  this  part  of  the 
Danube  is  diflicult.  owing  to  the  shoals  and  rapidity  of  the  cur 


PRESBURG.  39 

rents.  On  the  route  we  passed  the  memorable  battle-ground  of 
"Wagram.  Traces  of  the  works  of  Napoleon's  fortified  camp  on 
the  island  of  Lobau,  still  remain.  This  narrow  island — two  and 
one-third  miles  long,  and  three-quarters  of  a  mile  broad — it  is 
said  contained  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  foot  and  thirty 
thousand  horse,  and  seven  hundred  pieces  of  cannon,  concen- 
trated from  all  parts  of  Europe.  We  also  passed  the  villages  of 
Aspern  and  Essling,  the  scene  of  a  memorable  engagement  in 
1809,  when  the  Austrians,  under  the  Archduke  Charles,  gained 
a  temporary  but  important  advantage  over  Napoleon.  Aspern 
was  reduced  to  ruins ;  and  scarcely  any  traces  now  remain  of 
it,'  save  the  marks  of  cannon  and  shot  in  the  walls  of  the  church- 
yard. 

We  soon  arrived  at  Presburg,  the  place  of  coronation  of  the 
king  of  Hungary,  with  a  population  of  forty  thousand,  plea- 
santly situated  on  the  Danube.  The  most  conspicuous  edifice  to 
be  seen  here  is  the  royal  palace  on  the  hill  above  the  city.  It 
was  here  that  Maria  Theresa,  the  youthful  queen,  at  the  com- 
mencement of  her  reign,  when  attacked  on  all  sides,  appeared 
in  deep  mourning,  with  the  cross  of  St.  Stephen  in  her  hand, 
and  girt  with  his  sword,  and  delivered  a  speech,  stating  the 
disastrous  condition  of  her  affairs,  and  throwing  herself  on  the 
fidelity  of  her  people.  The  Hungarians  could  not  resist  the 
appeal,  but  in  the  excitement  of  feeling  voted  supplies  to  carry 
on  the  war,  and  summoned  the  wild  tribes  from  the  remote 
quarters  of  Hungary,  to  carry  terror  to  all  parts  of  the  continent. 
Near  the  city  an  artificial  mound  is  pointed  out,  about  forty  feet 
high,-  called  Konigsburgh,  to  which  every  new  king  of  Hungary 
has  heretofore  repaired  on  horseback,  after  his  coronation,  and 
from  its  summit  made  the  sign  of  the  cross  in  the  air  with  the 
sword  of  St.  Stephen,  and  waved  it  towards  the  four  points  of 
the  compass,  signifying  thus  his  intention  to  protect  the  land  on 
all  sides. 

We  visited  the  Jews'  quarter,  where,  to  the  number  of  seven 
thousand,  they  are  inclosed  along  the  slope  of  the  castle  hill. 
They  are  restricted  to  that  part  of  the  city.  The  shores  here 
are  connected  by  a  bridge  of  boats  which  rise  and  fall  with  the 
tide.  Along  the  river  may  be  seen,  constantly,  barges  rudely 
constructed,  mostly  flat  bottoms,  with  produce  destined  for  the 
Black  Sea,  and  descending  rapidly  with  a  current  very  like  the 


40  BUDA. 

Mississippi ;  others  ascending,  with  supplies  for  the  cities,  or 
with  merchandize,  and  towed  by  twenty  to  thirty  horses,  which 
traverse  the  banks,  or  up  to  the  middle  in  water.  We  repeatedly 
passed  fleets  of  water-mills,  driven  by  the  current,  stretching 
obliquely  in  long  lines  from  the  shore  into  the  middle  of  the 
river.  They  consist  of  a  water-wheel  suspended  between  two 
large  boats  moored  in  the  line  of  the  current ;  one  boat,  with  a 
temporary  dwelling,  used  by  the  miller.  Heretofore,  about  the 
only  use  this  mighty  river  was  applied  to,  was  propelling  the 
mills.  Steamers,  to  a  limited  extent,  have  been  introduced 
within  the  last  twelve  years.  The  scenery  along  its  banks  is 
rather  monotonous  until  you  arrive  at  the  town  of  Gran,  num- 
bering a  population  of  twelve  thousand :  here  is  seen  a  chain  of 
hills,  the  sides  of  which  are  planted  with  vineyards,  producing 
some  of  the  finest  Hungarian  wines.  The  town  is  celebrated  as 
being  the  birthplace  of  St.  Stephen,  and  for  a  long  time  the 
residence  of  the  Hungarian  monarchs,  and  was  the  finest  city  in 
Turkey  until  it  was  nearly  annihilated  by  the  Turks. 

After  passing  many  towers  and  battlemented  walls,  all  full  of 
interest  as  connected  with  the  history  of  the  country,  we  arrived 
at  this  city,  one  hundred  and  eighty-two  miles  from  Vienna. 

Buda,  the  old  town  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Danube,  is  the 
residence  of  the  Palatine,  and  seat  of  government ;  and  Pest  on 
the  left,  connected  by  a  bridge  of  boats  one  thousand  two  hun- 
dred feet  long — both  places  containing  a  population  of  one 
hundred  and  twenty  thousand.  In  1838,  a  sudden  rise  of  the 
Danube  destroyed  three  thousand  eight  hundred  dwellings. 
Since  that  time  the  city  has  improved  rapidly,  and  I  was  agreea- 
bly surprised  to  see  here,  in  almost  the  extreme  Eastern  part  of 
Europe,  a  city  that  would  compare  with,  and  remind  me  of  a 
new  American  city  in  many  respects.  The  chief  languages  are 
the  Hungarian  and  German,  but  I  find  the  people  in  the  cities 
of  Hungary  apt  in  the  acquirement  of  languages.  Many  of 
them  speak  five  languages.  Their  own  is  of  an  oriental  charac- 
ter, differing  from  all  European  ones,  and  most  difficult  to  acquire. 

On  crossing  the  bridge  of  boats,  we  passed  without  any  de- 
mand being  made ;  but  observed  that  others  were  stopped,  and 
toll  demanded.  On  inquiry,  the  reply  from  a  traveller  was,  that 
all  persons  who  had  good  coats  to  their  backs  were  allowed  to 
pass  free ;    while  those  who,  from  their  costume,  appeared  to 


TRAVELLING   IN   HUNGARY.  41 

belong  to  the  class  of  peasants  of  the  poorer  and  lower  orders, 
especially  beggars  in  rags,  are  compelled  to  pa3^  The  nobleman 
in  every  part  of  Hungary  is  free  from  all  taxes.  This  is  the 
Hungarian  constitution !  All  the  taxes  of  Hungary,  which 
contains  five  millions  of  people,  are  wrung  from  the  hard  earn- 
ings of  the  peasants.  The  nobleman  may  have  millions  of 
acres,  and  immense  revenues,  and  does  not  contribute  a  dollar. 
The  excuse  offered  for  this  monstrous  abuse  is,  that  the  peasant 
has  a  right  in  the  land  in  consequence  of  his  paying  taxes,  and 
that  the  tax  is  a  part  of  the  rent  paid  to  government  instead  of 
to  the  lord. 


xiy. 

Prague,  Bohemia,  July  12,  1841. 

I  WILL  give  you  some  idea  of  the  mode  of  travel  in  Hungary. 
Between  Vienna  and  Pest  there  is  a  separate  posting  establish- 
ment, set  on  foot  by  peasants,  who  drive  their  own  horses,  and 
travel  twice  as  expeditiously  as  an  ordinary  post.  Their  only 
carriage  is  a  light  wagon,  which  is  furnished  with  an  abundance 
of  straw  or  hay  to  make  it  comfortable,  with  a  rude  temporary 
cover  of  matting  thrown  over  it,  to  protect  from  the  rays  of  the 
sun,  and  rain.  The  pace  at  which  these  conveyences  travel  is 
absolutely  wonderful,  especially  some  of  the  stages.  One  of 
these  stages,  of  forty  miles,  was  performed  within  four  hours, 
with  a  stop  of  fifteen  minutes  to  water.  Most  of  the  time  they 
went  at  the  most  rapid  speed,  keeping  the  horses,  of  which  there 
were  four,  at  a  full  gallop. 

It  is  a  curious,  but  attractive  sight,  to  see  the  wild  looking 
driver,  with  his  long  black  hair  floating  in  the  breeze,  his  broad- 
brimmed  hat  and  feather,  as  he  turns  around  to  ask  for  your 
admiration  when  his  four,  little,  clean-limbed  nags  are  rattling 
away  over  hills  and  through  hollows,  at  a  rate  absolutely  fright- 
ful. Go  slow  he  will  not ;  and  if  you  escape  being  overturned, 
and  left  by  the  road-side,  you  are  fortunate. 

Hungary  is  a  rich  agricultural  country,  producing  immense 
quantities  of  grain  of  different  kinds.  In  the  opinion  of  some, 
it  is  not  uncommon  for  travellers  to  exaggerate ;  and  when  I 
say  that  we  passed  through  fields  ten  miles  in  extent,  with  wheat 


42  BRUNN. 

on  both  sides  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  it  will  scarcely 
appear  credible.  The  small  Hungarian  towns  present  a  singular 
appearance,  having  mostly  one  long  and  very  broad  street.  The 
houses  all  stand  with  their  gables  to  the  street,  are  one  story 
high,  and  about  eighteen  feet  wide,  with  but  one  front  window, 
but  extending  very  deep  to  the  rear.  In  towns  of  three  or  four 
hundred  houses,  you  will  scarcely  discover  two  with  any  other 
covering  than  a  thatched  straw  roof,  but  they  are  all  well  white- 
washed, and  have  a  greater  appearance  of  comfort  and  neatness 
than  one  would  suppose. 

The  estates  are  very  large,  and  most  of  the  peasants  are  mere 
slaves.  It  is  amusing  to  see  them  on  Sunday,  or  a  holiday, 
with  their  gay  attire ;  their  round-topped  broad-brimmed  hats 
filled  with  feathers  and  gay  flowers,  and  the  rest  of  their  peculiar 
dresses  decked  in  corresponding  style,  with  gaudy  finery,  re- 
mind one  of  our  American  Indians. 

On  our  route  to  this  city  from  Vienna,  we  stopped  at  Brunn, 
the  capital  of  Moravia,  a  city  with  a  population  of  forty  thou- 
sand. The  sect  called  Moravians  originated  in  this  country.  It 
is  a  manufacturing  city,  and  may  be  regarded  as  the  Austrian 
Leeds  for  its  cloths  and  woollen  stuffs.  Baron  Trenck,  the 
savage  leader  of  the  Pandours,  the  wild  vanguard  of  the  Aus- 
trian army,  died  here,  and  is  buried  in  the  church  of  the 
Capuchins.  About  ten  miles  from  Brunn  lies  the  famous  battle- 
field of  Austerlitz. 

This  city  stands  in  a  basin-shaped  valley,  cut  in  two  by  the 
river  Moldau.  It  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  rocks  or  emi- 
nences, upon  which  slope  the  buildings  of  the  city,  rising  tier 
above  tier  as  they  recede  from  the  water's  edge.  There  is  some- 
thing of  Asiatic  splendor  in  the  aspect  and  form  of  the  domes, 
turrets,  spires,  and  minarets,  which  rise  up  without  number  on 
all  sides.  The  most  imposing  building  is  the  ancient  palace  of 
the  Bohemian  kings,  which  stands  upon  the  crest  of  an  eminence, 
and  overlooks  all  the  other  buildings  of  the  city.  The  popula- 
tion is  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand. 

The  city  contains  much  to  interest  strangers.  The  Aldstadt, 
as  its  name  imports,  is  connected  with  the  new  part  of  the  town 
by  a  bridge  of  massive  stone,  which  was  begun  in  the  year 
1356,  by  the  emperor  Charles  IV.,  and  finished  in  1507 ;  it  is 
one  thousand  seven  hundred  and  ninety  feet  long,  and  is  orna- 


ST.   JOHN  NEPOMUCK.  43 

merited  with  fifty-six  statues  of  saints,  twentj-eiglit  on  eacli  side, 
— one  of  them  a  bronze  statue  of  St.  Nepomuck,  who,  according 
to  the  Popish  legend,  was  thrown  from  this  bridge  into  the  river 
and  drowned,  in  1383,  by  king  Wenceslaus,  because  he  refused 
to  betray  the  secrets  confided  to  him  by  his  queen  in  the  holy 
rite  of  confession.  The  spot  is  now  marked  by  five  stars  and  a 
cross,  in  imitation  of  the  miraculous  flames  which  for  three  days 
after  he  was  drowned,  were  seen  flickering  over  the  place  where 
his  body  lay  under  water.  The  river  was  dragged,  his  body 
found  and  encased  in  a  gorgeous  silver  shrine,  and  placed  in  the 
cathedral.  From  this  circumstance,  he  became  the  patron  saint 
of  bridges ;  and  wherever  I  have  travelled  in  Catholic  countries, 
I  find  the  statue  of  St.  John  Nepomuck  occupying  the  same 
situation  by  the  bridges.  The  shrine  and  chapel  in  the  cathe- 
dral are  among  the  most  richly  finished  in  the  world.  The 
body  is  contained  in  a  crystal  coffin,  inclosed  in  one  of  silver, 
and  held  aloft  by  angels  as  large  as  life,  also  of  silver.  The  can- 
delabra which  stand  around,  the  ever-burning  lamps  which 
hang  above,  are  of  the  same  precious  metal,  weighing  altogether 
two  thousand  five  hundred  pounds.  About  three  miles  from  the 
city  is  the  field  of  the  famous  battle  of  Prague,  won  by  Frederick 
the  Great,  in  the  celebrated  Seven  Years'  "War.  The  cathedral 
is  still  standing  at  which  Frederick  aimed  his  cannon  when  he 
attacked  the  city,  and  is  now  a  perfect  museum  of  antiquities. 
Two  hundred  and  fifteen  balls  passed  through  the  roof  It  is  an 
interesting  place  to  visit.  The  Jews  quarter  here,  and  occupy  a 
part  of  the  city  by  themselves,  but  are  not  locked  up  at  night 
as  in  Rome  and  some  other  places  that  I  have  visited.  It  is 
recorded  that  in  1290  they  were  almost  exterminated  here  by 
the  fanaticism  of  the  ignorant  part  of  the  people,  who  charged 
them  with  insulting  the  Host. 

The  most  ancient  synagogue  here,  the  Jews  assert,  is  nine 
hundred  years  old ;  the  dust  of  ages  remains  undisturbed  in  it, 
and  brooms,  water,  or  whitewash  would  be  considered  sacrilege. 
It  is  a  small  apartment,  supported  on  arches  by  three  pillars, 
dingy  with  age  and  smoke.  In  some  of  their  festivals  they  bear 
torches  and  lamps  for  days  and  nights,  which  accounts  for  the 
smoky  and  gloomy  walls.  The  burial-ground,  not  flxr  from  the 
synagogue,  is  a  singular  spot.  It  is  a  large  inclosure  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  Jewish  city,  filled  with  the  dead  of  centuries.     One  old 


44  PALACE   OF   WALLENSTEIN. 

headstone  was  pointed  out  wliicli  bears  the  date  of  the  twelfth 
century.  Many  of  them  bear  symbols  of  the  tribes  to  which  the 
departed  belonged ;  a  pitcher  marks  Levi,  and  so  on. 

We  visited  the  palace  of  the  Bohemian  Kings.  It  is  said  to 
contain  one  thousand  four  hundred  and  forty  apartments,  and 
some  are  very  splendid  in  size  and  decorations.  The  window  is 
shown  where  three  nobles  were  thrown  out  and  fell  eighty  feet, 
having  issued  tyrannical  edicts  against  the  Protestants,  which 
gave  rise  to  the  Thirty  Years'  War  that  ended  in  1640.  We 
next  visited  the  palace  of  the  great  chieftain  Wallenstein.  It  is 
stated  that  one  hundred  houses  were  purchased  and  pulled  down 
to  make  room  for  building  the  palace  and  clearing  the  grounds 
around  it.  It  is  now  occupied  by  the  descendants  of  Wallen- 
stein. Those  who  visited  the  palace  in  his  lifetime  have  left 
behind  a  surprising  account  of  its  splendor,  and  the  regal  style 
kept  up  by  the  proprietor.  His  stables  contained  three  hundred 
saddle  and  carriage  horses,  fed  out  of  marble  mangers.  Sixty 
pages,  of  noble  families,  were  kept  in  the  establishment  to  wait 
upon  him,  and  when  he  went  from  home  fifty  carriages  each 
drawn  by  four  or  six  horses  conveyed  himself  and  suite,  and 
fifty  wagons  carried  his  baggage,  while  the  whole  train  was  fol- 
lowed by  fifty  extra  horses.  His  fortune  was  enormous,  and 
yet  during  the  wars  he  was  often  at  a  loss  for  means  to  raise  a 
few  thousand  florins,  so  terribly  did  the  country  suffer. 

The  monastery  of  Straliew,  whose  library  contains  fifty  thou- 
sand volumes,  has  scarcely  its  equal  in  this  part  of  the  world  for 
its  splendor,  being  lined  throughout  with  walnut  wood,  and 
richly  ornamented  with  gilding.  It  contains,  among  other 
things  of  interest,  the  autograph  of  Tycho  Brahe,  the  great  astro- 
nomer, and  a  portrait  of  the  famous  Ziska,  who,  it  is  said, 
bequeathed  his  skin  to  his  followers  with  directions  that  it 
should  be  tanned  and  stretched  upon  a  drum,  in  order  that  its 
sound  might  inflict  upon  his  enemies  a  portion  of  that  terror 
which  his  presence  while  living  had  invariably  produced  among 
them. 


THE   BATHS  OF  ToPLITZ.  45 


XY. 

Dresden,  Saxont,  July  18,  1841. 

It  was  one  day's  ride  from  Prague  to  Toplitz,  celebrated 
above  all  other  watering  places  in  Austria  for  its  baths.  It  is 
pleasantly  located  on  a  small  stream,  and  contains  two  thousand 
seven  hundred  and  fifty  inhabitants,  and  four  hundred  houses, 
sixty  of  which  are  inns.  There  is  hardly  a  house  in  the  town 
that  is  not  used  at  times  as  a  lodging-house.  A  great  part  of 
the  place  belongs  to  Prince  Clary,  who  has  such  very  extensive 
possessions  in  this  part  of  the  Austrian  empire  that  he  is  put 
down  as  the  proprietor  of  sixty  villages!  On  the  way  from 
Vienna  to  Prague  we  passed  for  fifty  or  sixty  miles  through  the 
estate  of  Prince  Lichtenstein,  whose  entire  possessions  extend 
two  hundred  miles,  the  land  being  nearly  all  of  the  choicest 
quality. 

Attached  to  the  palace  of  Prince  Clary  in  Toplitz  are  parks 
and  gardens  abounding  with  tall  groves  of  fruit  trees,  and  long 
promenades,  fountains  of  water,  lakes  with  beautiful  flocks  of 
swans  gliding  over  the  surface,  and  within  the  circuit  lie  the 
theatre,  reading,  dining,  and  ball  rooms,  which  are  thrown  open 
for  the  use  of  visitors  who  wish  to  jiatronize  the  baths.  The 
hot  springs  are  seventeen  in  number,  their  temperature  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  degrees  Fah.  During  the  summer  there  are 
thuosands  of  persons  at  these  baths.  Being  one  of  the  most 
fashionable  watering  places,  it  is  frequented  not  only  by  the 
nobility  of  Eussia,  Prussia,  and  Austria,  but  by  the  sovereigns 
of  those  countries,  dukes,  and  princes  of  smaller  estate,  &c. 
There  are  six  public  baths  and  eighty  private  ones,  which  are 
in  requisition  from  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  until  late  at 
night.  Each  bathing  establishment  is  placed  under  the  direc- 
tion of  a  "  Badmeister"  and  his  wife,  and  at  the  entrance  hangs 
a  list,  where  the  hours  at  which  every  bath  is  engaged  are  noted 
down. 

The  visitor  must  be  punctual  in  occupying  only  three  quar- 
ters of  an  hour,  and  before  the  time  is  up  he  is  notified  by  the 
ringing  of  a  bell  to  prepare  to  dress. 

On  the  route  from  Toplitz  leading  to  Aussig,  on  the  banks  of 
the  Elbe,  at  which  place  the  steamer  starts  for  Dresden,  we 


46  THE   ELBE. 

passed  tlirougli  the  battle-ground  of  Kulin,  near  the  Nollendorf 
pass,  which  will  always  be  famous  in  history.  The  French 
forces  under  Vandamme,  and  the  allied  forces  under  Count  Col- 
leredo  Mansfield,  fought  a  battle  here  that  had  a  vast  influence 
upon  the  fortunes  of  Napoleon.  He  had  despatched  Vandamme, 
with  forty  thousand  men,  under  strict  orders  not  to  descend  into 
the  plain ;  but,  contrary  to  those  orders,  he  attacked  Count  Oster- 
mann,  who  had  with  him  eight  thousand  guards,  chiefly  Eussians, 
and  the  Prussian  and  Austrian  forces  came  up  in  time  to  rout 
the  entire  French  force  before  any  aid  could  reach  them,  killing 
and  making  prisoners  all  except  a  few  thousands  who  threw 
away  their  arms  and  fled  across  the  mountain.  The  Prussian, 
Eussian,  and  Austrian  governments  have  each  erected  a  monu- 
ment in  the  field.  The  Prussian  is  inclosed  within  an  iron  rail- 
ing, and  is  of  cast  iron,  with  the  inscription  in  German — "  A 
grateful  King  and  country  honor  the  heroes  that  fell  f  the  Austrian 
is  dedicated  to  Prince  Colleredo  Mansfield,  who  was  wounded  in 
the  battle ;  the  Eussian  was  placed  by  the  Emperor  Nicholas  in 
the  centre  of  the  field.  It  is  an  obelisk,  surmounted  by  a  figure 
of  Fame,  with  a  lion  reposing  at  its  base. 

From  Aussig,  a  small  town  on  the  Elbe,  we  descended  rapidly, 
touching  at  Teschen,  a  small  village  most  romantically  situated, 
where  commences  the  country  called  "  Saxon  Switzerland." 
The  village  lies  at  the  foot  of  a  high  rock,  on  which  stands  the 
castle  of  Teschen,  owned  by  Count  Thurn,  who  is  also  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  village  and  a  district  of  country  around  occupied 
by  eighteen  thousand  inhabitants. 

The  Elbe  here  seems  pent  up  between  bold  cliffs  and  huge 
rocks,  clothed  in  rich  foliage  wherever  it  is  possible  for  a  tree  to 
hang ;  but  it  finds  its  way  through  them  into  a  most  romantic 
and  picturesque  country.  In  passing  along  we  had  a  view  of 
the  Bartec,  a  rock  that  rises  near  the  margin  of  the  river  to  the 
height  of  eight  hundred  feet,  and  commands  an  extensive  view 
of  the  surrounding  country.  The  Konigstein  rock,  which  is  a 
fortress  seven  hundred  and  seventy-nine  feet  above  the  river,  is 
deemed  impregnable,  and  has  never  yet  been  taken.  It  is  sur- 
rounded on  all  sides  by  perpendicular  rocks,  and  so  isolated 
that  it  cannot  be  commanded  by  artillery  from  any  point. 
Napoleon  tried  to  batter  it  from  Lilienstein,  the  nearest  emi- 
nence, but  the  shot  fell  short.     The   treasures   of  the   Saxon 


DRESDEN.  '47 

government  were  fortunately  placed  here,  and  were  tlius  kept 
secure.  A  space  of  two  miles  in  circumference  on  the  top  of 
the  rock,  is  laid  out  in  fields  and  gardens,  and  is  finely  cultivated. 
The  present  garrison  numbers  only  six  hundred  men. 

The  scenery  on  the  banks  of  the  Elbe,  until  within  a  few  mile:J 
of  Dresden,  is  of  the  most  enchanting  character.  Dresden  has  a 
population  of  seventy  thousand.  It  is  delightfully  situated  on 
the  bank  of  the  river,  and  ranks  high  among  European  cities  for 
its  attractions,  and  the  number  and  objects  calculated  to  gratify 
the  intelligent  traveller.  It  is  the  residence  of  the  king,  and 
has  consequently  all  the  accompaniments  of  a  national  capital. 
Its  picture  gallery  has  the  finest  collection  of  paintings  to  be 
found  north  of  the  Alps.  "When  Frederic  the  Great  bom- 
barded Dresden,  battered  down  its  churches,  and  laid  its  streets 
in  ruins,  he  commanded  his  troops  to  keep  clear  of  the  picture 
gallery.  Napoleon  treated  Dresden  well,  and  respected  its  pic- 
tures. The  collection  is  very  extensive,  consisting  of  many 
thousands,  one  of  which,  by  Eaphael,  cost  forty  thousand  dollars. 
It  represents  the  Virgin  soaring  up  to  Heaven,  bearing  in  her 
arms  the  Divine  Child,  while  Pope  Sixtus  is  represented  as  gaz- 
ing upon  the  scene  and  trembling  with  pious  awe ;  opposite  to 
him  kneels  St.  Barbara,  and  below  the  group  stand  two  angelic 
children,  their  countenances  beaming  with  innocence  and  intelli- 
gence.    It  is  considered  the  best  picture  out  of  Italy. 

The  Green  Vaults,  so  styled,  are  a  range  of  vaulted  apart- 
ments on  the  ground  floor  of  the  royal  palace,  containing  a  vast 
and  rich  collection  of  valuables.  The  Saxon  princes  in  former 
times  were  among  the  richest  sovereigns  in  Europe.  This  col- 
lection is  probably  the  richest  in  Europe,  amounting  to  many 
millions  in  value.  The  treasures  are  contained  in  eight  apart- 
ments, each  surpassing  the  other,  as  you  reach  them  successively, 
in  richness  and  splendor.  The  objects  are  so  numerous  that  it  is 
quite  impossible  to  allude  to  more  than  a  few  of  the  most  promi- 
nent :  A  large  quantity  of  gold  and  silver  plate  which  adorn  the 
banquets  of  the  Saxon  palace ;  vessels  formed  of  agates,  precious 
stones,  &c. ;  goblets  composed  entirely  of  cut  gems,  valued  at 
six  hundred  dollars  each ;  vessels  cut  out  of  solid  rock  crystal. 
Among  the  wonders  of  the  cabinet  are  the  works  of  Durglinger,  an 
artist  formerly  employed  exclusively  by  the  Electors  of  Saxony. 
One  piece  is  called  the  Court  of  the  Great  Mogul,  and  representa 


48  HISTOEICAL   MUSEUM. 

the  Emperor  Aurungzebe  upon  his  throne,  surrounded  by  his 
guards  and  courtiers  in  the  most  appropriate  costume,  in  all 
one  hundred  and  thirty  figures  of  pure  gold  enamelled.  It 
employed  three  persons  eight  years  to  complete  it,  and  cost 
eighty-five  thousand  dollars.  Last  of  all  comes  the  eighth  room, 
in  which  is  one  case  containing  valuables  sufficient  to  pay  off  the 
national  debt  of  Saxony,  amounting  to  many  millions ;  compris- 
ing the  most  precious  jewels,  sapphires,  rubies,  pearls,  diamonds, 
&c.  The  diamond  decorations  of  the  gala  dress  of  the  Elector 
consist  of  buttons,  collar,  sword  hilt  and  scabbard,  all  of  dia- 
monds. The  most  remarkable  in  the  mass  of  chains,  bracelets, 
orders  of  the  Golden  Fleece,  and  so  on,  is  a  green  brilliant, 
weighing  forty  carats,  and  of  great  value. 

The  Historical  Museum  of  Dresden  contains  all  the  weapons, 
offensive  and  defensive,  of  chivalrous  warfare,  all  the  trappings 
and  accoutrements  of  tournaments,  and  other  wild  sports  of  feu- 
dal times.  Here  are  whole  suits  of  armor  for  man  and  horse, 
ornamented  in  great  profusion  with  gold  and  silver.  The  entire 
armory  occupies  nine  long  galleries,  and  excels  that  of  the 
Tower  of  London.  One  suit  of  armor  is  covered  with  reliefs 
representing  the  labors  of  Hercules,  and  other  subjects,  in  gold 
and  steel. 

Among  the  historical  relics  in  the  last  apartment  are  the  robes 
worn  by  Augustus  the  Strong  at  his  coronation  as  King  of 
Poland ;  the  little  cocked  hat  of  Peter  the  Great,  and  a  wooden 
bowl  turned  by  his  own  hand ;  the  saddle  of  red  velvet  upon 
which  Napoleon  rode,  the  boots  he  wore  in  the  battle  of  Dres- 
den, and  the  satin  shoes  worn  at  his  coronation. 

The  bridge  over  the  Elbe  here  is  considered  one  of  the  finest 
of  stone  in  Germany.  It  is  very  solid,  in  order  to  resist  the  ice 
in  the  spring.  There  is  a  bronze  crucifix  on  one  of  the  arches, 
denoting  the  part  blown  up  by  the  French  Marshal  Davoust  in 
1813,  to  cover  his  retreat  to  Leipsic.  One  church  here  is  com- 
posed of  solid  stone  to  the  top  of  the  dome,  and  is  of  such  solid 
construction  that  cannon  balls  directed  against  it  by  Frederic 
the  Great  rebounded  from  its  surface  without  doing  the  least 
injury. 


LUTHER  AND   MELANCTHON".  49 


XYI. 

■WiTTEMBERG,  PRUSSIA,  July  23,  1841. 

We  this  morning  arrived  in  tliis  interesting  town.  I  say 
interesting,  from  historical  association  only,  as  the  town  itself  is 
dull  and  lifeless,  with  a  population  of  seven  thousand.  It  has 
been  termed  the  Protestant  Mecca;  it  was  the  cradle  of  the 
Keformation,  as  Martin  Luther  openly  engaged  here  in  opposition 
to  the  Church  of  Rome. 

After  procuring  a  valet-de-place,  we  proceeded  to  the  market- 
place, where,  beneath  a  Gothic  canopy  of  cast  iron,  is  a  bronze 
statue  of  Luther,  inscribed  with  these  words  in  German  :  "If 
it  be  the  work  of  God,  it  will  endure ;  if  of  man,  it  will  perish." 

We  next  visited  the  town  hall,  where  are  preserved  several 
paintings,  among  the  number  one  of  Luther  and  one  of  Melanc- 
thon ;  also  the  drinking  cup  of  Luther,  and  several  other  relics. 
On  passing  up  the  street  to  visit  the  ancient  Augustine  convent, 
where  Luther  meditated  the  change  of  the  religion  of  Europe, 
we  passed  the  house  of  Melancthon,  on  which  are  inscribed  these 
words,  "  Hier  wohrite,  lehrie,  und  siarh  Melandliony — (Here  lived, 
taught,  and  died  Melancthon.)  On  arriving  at  Luther's  cell, 
we  found  the  old  chair  and  table  at  which  he  wrote,  and  the  jug 
from  which  he  drank.  The  wall  bears  the  name  of  Peter  the 
Great,  written  with  his  own  hand.  Outside  of  the  gate  of  the 
town  is  an  oak  tree  surrounded  by  a  railing,  marking  the  spot 
where  Luther  burnt  publicly  the  Papal  bull,  by  which  Pope 
Leo  X.  condemned  his  doctrines  and  excommunicated  him  as  an 
obstinate  heretic,  in  Dec.  1520.  Luther  and  his  friend  Melanc- 
thon are  both  buried  in  one  church  here.  Two  tablets  of  bronze 
inserted  in  the  pavement  mark  their  graves.  Here  are  also  the 
tombs  of  Frederic  the  Wise  and  John  the  Steadfast,  Electors 
of  Saxony,  who  were  great  friends  of  Luther  and  the  Refor- 
mation. Against  the  doors  of  this  church  Luther  hung  up 
his  ninety-five  arguments,  which  condemned  the  doctrine  of 
Papal  indulgence,  and  which  he  offered  to  defend  against  all 
comers. 

We  leave  here  to-morrow  m9rning  for  Berlin,  the  capital  of 
Prussia.  I  wrote  you  last  from  Dresden,  and  next  visited  Leip- 
sig,  interesting  as  a  commercial   place,  and   celebrated  for  its 

4 


60  LEIPSIG. 

memorable  battle — the  battle  of  the  nations — one  of  the  longest, 
sternest,  and  bloodiest  actions  of  the  war,  and  one  of  the 
largest  battles  recorded  in  history  ;  the  number  of  troops  on  the 
side  of  Bonaparte  being  one  hundred  and  thirty-six  thousand, 
and  on  the  part  of  the  allies  two  hundred  and  thirty  thousand 
— two  thousand  cannon  and  eighty  thousand  horse.  It  is 
said  that  after  the  battle  had  raged  three  days  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  city,  on  the  19th  of  Oct.  1813,  it  reached  up  to  the  walls, 
and  cannon  shot  fell  in  showers  in  the  streets.  The  castle  of 
Plazenburg,  the  ancient  citadel,  is  lofty,  and  from  the  obser- 
vatory the  guide  gave  us  an  accurate  description  of  the  position 
of  all  the  armies.  I  visited  the  spot  where  the  bridge  was,  un- 
fortunately for  the  French,  blown  up,  whereby  twenty-five 
thousand  soldiers  were  lost  or  taken.  The  river  Elster  runs 
through  the  city,  and  by  this  mistake  many  thousands  of  French, 
on  the  retreat,  were  precipitated,  with  wagons,  cannon,  and  horses, 
into  the  stream.  The  gallant  Pole,  Poniatowski,  whose  tomb 
I  found  near  the  bank  of  the  river,  lost  his  life  here.  Leipsig 
contains  a  population  of  forty-seven  thousand  five  hundred,  and 
its  sale  of  books  forms  one  of  the  chief  branches  of  commerce, 
said  to  amount  to  twenty  million  francs  yearly.  Three  fairs 
are  held  here  during  the  year,  and  while  they  continue  Leipsig  is 
said  to  be  the  mart  of  central  Europe,  and  is  visited  by  foreigners 
from  all  quarters,  sometimes  to  the  extent  of  thirty  thousand. 
Then  every  hotel  and  lodging-house  is  filled  to  overflowing,  and 
temporary  booths  occupy  the  streets.  The  old  walls  of  the  city 
have  long  since  been  demolished,  and  instead  of  them  the  city  is 
now  encircled  with  a  belt  of  trees,  forming  delightful  pro- 
menades bordered  with  flowers.  It  is  said  that  in  the  year 
1834,  eighty  thousand  names  of  strangers  were  enrolled  on  the 
police  books,  and  during  the  fair  the  streets  were  thronged  with 
Jews,  Tyrolese,  Persians,  Armenians,  Turks,  and  Greeks,  mingled 
together  in  a  masquerade.  Our  valet  took  us  to  a  cellar  for 
refreshments,  where,  according  to  tradition,  the  famous  magician 
Dr.  Faustus  performed  his  feats,  which  are  represented  by  rude 
daubs  upon  the  wall.  Goethe  has  laid  iu  the  ceflar  a  scene  of 
the  tragedy  of  Faust.  It  is  said  that  the  poet,  as  well  as  his  hero, 
not  unfrequently  caroused  here  while  a  student. 

On  leaving  Leipsig  we  took  passage  for  Dessau,  the  residence 
of  Prince  Anhalt  Dessau,  a  separate  and  distinct  principality. 


WORLITZ.  51 

There  is  nothing  remarkable  on  this  route  except  the  palace  of 
gardens,  at  "Worlitz,  belonging  to  this  prince.  The  grounds  are 
very  extensive  and  beautifully  laid  out,  as  is  usually  the  case 
with  those  of  the  titled  nobility — adorned  with  artificial  caves 
and  grottoes,  miniature  Gothic  castles,  a  temple  of  Venus,  an 
imitation  in  miniature  of  the  Pantheon  at  Rome,  lakes,  labyrinths, 
&c.  The  church  and  chapel  are  very  pretty ;  the  palace  is  mag- 
nificently arranged,  and  filled  with  statuary,  paintings,  antiqui- 
ties, &c.;  it  is  only  used  as  a  summer  retreat.  While  attending 
service  recently  we  were  struck  with  the  fine  vocal  music 
produced  by  about  thirty  young  boys.  On  inquiry,  I  found 
that  singing  is  a  part  of  Prussian  education,  and  in  no  country, 
perhaps,  is  the  system  of  general  knowledge  so  extended  as  in 
Prussia.  By  law  every  child,  at  the  age  of  eight  years,  must 
attend  school. 

In  most  states,  although  every  man  is  obliged  to  serve  in  the 
army,  a  substitute  may  be  had ;  not  so  in  Prussia ;  every  able- 
bodied  man,  from  prince  to  peasant,  must  serve  in  person. 
Three  years  is  the  usual  time,  but  as  an  encouragement  for 
superior  education,  on  the  meeting  of  the  board  of  military 
examination,  young  men  showing  proof  of  superior  education 
may  claim  the  right  of  serving  only  one  year.  All  are  liable  to 
duty  in  case  of  war.  By  this  system  it  is  said  that  Prussia  can, 
in  a  short  period,  furnish  over  half  a  million  of  men  for  the 
defence  of  its  wide-spread  frontier. 


XVII. 

Berlin,  Prussia,  July  30,  1841. 

I  ARRIVED  in  this  city  the  day  following  my  last  letter 
from  Wittemberg.  Our  approach  to  the  capital  of  Prussia  was 
through  a  dreary  plain  of  sand,  destitute  of  either  beauty  or 
fertility,  and  differing  widely  from  the  rich  agricultural  country- 
through  which  I  had  been  travelling.  It  is  surprising  that  the 
foundation  of  a  city  should  have  been  laid  in  so  uninteresting  a 
spot,  and  still  more  surprising  that  it  should  have  grown  to  be 
the  capital  of  a  great  kingdom. 

Frederic  the  Great,  ambitious  to  have  a  capital  in  proportion 
to  his  extended  dominions,  inclosed  a  vast  space  with  walls,  and 


62  BERLIN. 

ordered  it  to  be  filled  with  houses ;  the  consequence  is  that  the 
streets  are  very  broad,  and  regularly  laid  out.  One  street, 
called  Friederichstrasse,  is  two  miles  long,  and  has  not  a  foot  of 
descent  from  one  end  to  the  other.  Berlin  has  been  termed  a 
city  built  for  effect,  all  that  is  exceedingly  beautiful  being  con- 
centrated in  one  focus.  The  palaces,  museum,  arsenal,  opera- 
houses,  some  of  the  finest  churches,  and  other  magnificent 
buildings,  are  quite  contiguous.  The  street  on  which  they 
stand  is  at  least  two  hundred  feet  wide,  with  four  rows  of  linden 
trees  running  the  entire  length  of  it.  The  central  grand  pro- 
menade for  pedestrians  has  rows  of  trees  on  each  side,  then 
comes  the  equestrian  road  on  the  right  and  left,  with  one  row  of 
trees  on  each  side,  after  which  are  the  carriage  roads  and  side 
walks,  on  both  sides  of  this  great  avenue.  The  river  Spree,  a 
small  stream  which  runs  through  the  city,  communicates  with 
the  Elbe,  and  by  means  of  canals  with  the  Oder,  the  Baltic,  and 
the  German  Sea,  and  is  navigated  by  boats. 

The  population  of  Berlin  is  three  hundred  thousand.  Owing 
to  the  scarcity  of  stone  the  city  is  mostly  built  of  brick,  stuccoed 
and  painted,  or  colored  in  a  variety  of  ways,  which  gives  it  a 
light  and  beautiful  appearance.  Notwithstanding  all  its  dis- 
advantages of  situation  Berlin  is  one  of  the  most  splendid  cities 
in  Europe.  Few  can  show  so  much  architectural  splendor  as  is 
seen  in  the  colossal  palace,  the  beautiful  colonnade  of  the  new 
museum,  and  many  other  buildings.  The  Brandenburg  Gate, 
one  of  the  principal  ornaments  of  the  city,  is  probably  the 
most  splendid  portal  in  Europe,  built  after  the  model  of  the 
Propylseum  at  Athens,  but  larger.  The  Car  of  Victorj^  on  the 
top,  drawn  by  three  horses,  with  the  goddess  in  a  standing- 
position,  was  taken  to  Paris  b}^  Napoleon,  but  the  Prussians 
recovered  it  after  the  battle  of  Waterloo. 

The  royal  palace  is  of  vast  size,  and  gorgeously  furnished. 
One  apartment,  which  is  very  splendid,  and  called  the  Knights' 
Hall,  has  a  throne  and  sideboard  covered  with  massive  old  plate 
of  gold  and  silver,  large  collections  of  paintings,  one  large  chan- 
delier of  solid  crystal,  the  ball  suspended  from  the  bottom  of 
which  cost  twenty-four  thousand  dollars,  and  is  larger  than  the 
crown  of  ni}^  hat.  In  the  attic  story  of  the  palace  is  the  Cabinet 
of  Art,  occupying  several  rooms.  Among  the  most  prominent 
objects   of  the   large  collection   are   Japanese   and  Australian 


THE   NEW    MUSEUM.  53 

weapons,  Chinese  collections,  cloaks  of  feathers  from  the  Sand- 
wich Islands,  works  of  art  in  ivor}'^  and  gold,  vast  collections  of 
jewels,  a  model  of  a  windmill  made  by  Peter  the  Great  with  his 
own  hands  while  working  as  a  ship  carpenter  in  Holland,  the 
robes  of  the  Order  of  the  Grarter,  given  by  Greorge  IV.,  and  those 
of  the  Order  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  given  by  Louis  XVIII,,  to  the  late 
Prussian  king.  Some  of  the  relics  are  entirely  national.  The 
bullet  that  wounded  Frederic  the  Great  in  the  battle  of  Eossbach 
in  1760 ;  a  wax  figure,  said  to  resemble  him,  as  a  cast  was  taken 
after  his  death ;  he  is  clothed  in  the  same  rusty  and  tarnished 
uniform  he  wore  on  the  day  of  his  death ;  the  scabbard  of  his 
sword  is  mended  with  sealing-wax  by  his  own  hand ;  his  books, 
flute,  and  cane  lay  before  him  on  the  table,  also  his  pocket- 
handkerchief,  which  is  ragged  and  patched,  and  which  he  used 
to  the  last. 

Frederic  the  Great  was  certainly  a  singular  character.  Dr. 
Moore  says  his  whole  wardrobe  consisted  of  two  blue  coats  faced 
with  red,  the  lining  of  one  a  little  torn ;  two  yellow  waistcoats, 
considerably  soiled  with  snuff,  and  three  pairs  of  yellow  breeches. 
Here  is  also  a  glass  case  containing  the  stars,  orders,  and  decora- 
tions presented  to  Napoleon  by  the  diiferent  sovereigns  of 
Europe,  except  England.  They  were  taken  by  the  Prussians 
after  the  battle  of  Waterloo,  in  his  carriage,  from  which  he 
escaped  so  narrowly  that  he  left  his  cap  behind  him,  which  is 
also  preserved  here. 

The  new  museum  is  liberally  thrown  open  to  the  public.  It 
contains  a  very  extensive  picture  gallery ;  some  of  the  paintings 
are  good  originals,  but  most  of  them  are  copies,  and  in  this 
branch  of  the  arts  Berlin  bears  no  comparison  to  the  Italian 
cities.  There  are  also  sculpture  galleries,  galleries  of  antiquities, 
collections  of  vases,  bronzes,  &c.  The  vases  amount  to  one 
thousand  six  hundred  in  number.  The  ornithological  collec- 
tion in  the  University  is  one  of  the  richest  and  most  extensive 
in  Europe,  comprising  all  classes  of  birds  from  every  quarter  of 
the  globe,  the  collections  of  Baron  von  Humboldt  and  others. 
The  Egyptian  museum  ranks  very  high,  and  is  said  to  be  the 
most  curious  in  Europe.  Among  the  figures  are  those  of  various 
Egyptian  deities,  with  the  symbols  belonging  to  each,  and  worn 
on  the  image.  Among  the  mummies  are  not  only  those  of 
human  beings,  but  of  the  animals  worshipped  by  the  Egyptians, 


54  CHARLOTTENBUEG. 

sucli  as  cats,  young  crocodiles,  frogs,  and  lizards,  all  embalmed 
and  wrapped  in  fine  cloths.  The  most  interesting  object  is  the 
contents  of  the  tomb  of  an  Egyptian  High  Priest,  discovered  and 
opened  in  the  Necropolis  of  Thebes.  The  body  was  inclosed  in 
a  triple  coffin,  the  work  of  which  is  most  intricate  and  extra- 
ordinary. All  the  specimens  shown  here  of  the  produce  of 
different  trades  are  calculated  to  give  a  good  idea  of  the  extent  of 
civilization  and  progress  of  the  arts  three  thousand  years  ago  in 
that  country. 

The  Arsenal  here  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  as  specimens  of  the 
arms  and  accoutrements  used  in  all  parts  of  Europe  are  seen  in 
great  abundance.  Fire-arms  used  from  the  first  invention  of 
gunpowder  to  the  present  time ;  two  leather  cannons  used  by 
the  great  Grustavus  in  the  Thirty  Years'  "War,  are  shown ;  many 
ancient  weapons  and  suits  of  armor ;  and  against  the  walls  hang 
upwards  of  one  thousand  standards  taken  during  the  campaigns 
that  overthrew  Napoleon.  About  five  miles  from  the  city  is 
Charlottehburg,  a  small  village  on  the  Spree,  made  mostly  of 
villas,  for  the  summer  residence  of  the  rich,  and  taverns  to 
accommodate  others  who  resort  there  from  Berlin. 

At  Charlottenburg  is  a  palace  built  by  Frederic  the  Gr^at, 
the  grounds  about  which  are  exceedingly  beautiful,  and  open  to 
the  public,  being  finely  laid  out  and  constantly  thronged. 
Arms  of  the  Spree  run  through  them,  and  the  waters  abound 
with  carp  as  large  as  shad,  which  come  up  to  the  surface  on  the 
ringing  of  a  bell,  and  are  so  tame  that  any  one  may  feed  them. 
The  interior  of  the  palace,  w^hich  may  be  seen  by  feeing  the 
Castellan,  as  he  is  called,  is  very  interesting,  and  gorgeous  in 
silver  and  gold  decorations,  Gobelin  and  Prussian  tapestry, 
statuary  and  paintings.  The  length  of  the  entire  building, 
furnished  complete,  is  six  hundred  feet.  We  were  shown  the 
room  that  Napoleon  occupied  during  his  stay  here.  It  had  been 
previously  occupied  by  the  queen,  but  she  never  would  stay 
there  afterwards,  but  took  another  apartment.  One  of  the  most 
attractive  objects  is  the  beautiful  statue  of  Queen  Louisa,  said  to 
have  been  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  amiable  princesses  of 
her  day.  She  is  buried  within  a  small  Doric  temple,  at  the 
extremity  of  a  shady  walk,  in  a  retired  part  of  the  garden 
The  work  is  by  Eauch,  of  Berlin,  and  is  not  surpassed  by  any 
modern  work  of  art.     The  figure  of  the  queen  reposes  on  a 


POTSDAM.  55 

sarcophagus  of  beautiful  white  marble,  and  as  Russell  describes 
it,  "  it  is  a  form  and  face  of  the  most  exquisite  beauty,  but  at 
the  same  time  a  most  perfect  resemblance."  The  expression  is 
not  that  of  cold  death,  but  of  undisturbed  repose,  the  hands 
being  modestly  folded  on  the  breast,  and  the  attitude  easy, 
graceful,  and  natural.  Only  the  countenance  and  part  of  the 
neck  are  bare,  tlie  rest  of  the  figure  is  shrouded  in  drapery 
beautifully  wrought.  There  is  no  inscription,  or  catalogue  of 
titles,  but  simply  the  Prussian  eagle  at  the  head  and  foot  of  the 
sarcophagus,  with  four  lions  at  the  corners  to  support  it. 


XVIII. 

Frankfort-on-the-Maine,  Aug.  6,  1841. 
On  leaving  Berlin  our  party  proceeded  to  Potsdam,  deno- 
minated the  Prussian  Versailles,  lying  on  the  bank  of  the  river 
Havel,  about  twenty  miles  from  Berlin.  It  may  be  called  a 
town  of  palaces,  not  only  from  the  four  royal  residences  in  and 
about  it,  but  because  the  private  residences  are  copied  from 
celebrated  edifices.  It  has  a  population  of  thirty-three  thousand, 
including  a  large  garrison.  The  principal  objects  that  attract 
travellers  are  the  grounds  and  extensive  palaces ;  also.  Peacock 
Island,  in  German,  "  Pfauen  lusel."  This  island  was  the  late 
king's  hobby,  and  he  made  it  an  enchanting  spot.  The  distance 
of  four  or  five  miles  from  Potsdam  is  soon  accomplished,  where 
the  island  is  reached  by  a  boat.  It  is  beautifully  situated  in  the 
centre  of  a  lake,  and  is  about  three  miles  in  circumference,  and 
what  was  a  wilderness  of  sand  and  fir  trees,  is  now  converted 
into  the  most  delightful  pleasure  grounds,  adorned  with  rare 
plants,  shrubbery,  and  groves  of  trees  of  all  varieties.  Here  is 
every  variety  of  building  which  enlivens  English  or  French 
gardens ;  fancy  Gothic  buildings,  pavilions,  menageries,  and  ani- 
mals of  all  kinds,  from  the  noble  lion  to  the  innocent  lama,  the 
deer  and  the  elk,  running  at  large.  A  great  variety  of  birds, 
from  the  vulture,  eagle,  and  ostrich,  to  the  owl  and  parrot,  may 
be  seen  in  their  different  habitations.  The  king  was  engaged 
twenty  years  in  bringing  it  to  perfection,  and  it  was  his  favorite 
retreat  during  summer.  The  mounted  frigate,  presented  by 
William  IV.  of  Ensfland  to  the  king,  is  stationed  here  in  the 


56  MAGDEBURGH. 

lake,  and  its  proportions  suit  well  the  scenery  by  which  it  is 
surrounded. 

We  visited  Sans  Souci,  the  residence  of  the  king,  beautifully 
situated  on  the  top  of  a  flight  of  steps  like  terraces.  The  ter- 
races are  fronted  with  glass,  beneath  which  grow  vines,  olives, 
and  orange  trees.  Frederic  the  Great,  who  took  great  pride  in 
his  grounds  as  well  as  in  his  faithful  dogs  and  horses,  had  a  favor- 
ite spot  of  resort  at  the  extremity  of  the  terrace,  and  just  before 
his  death  was  brought  out  to  bask  in  the  sun.  He  desired  to  be 
buried  in  this  spot,  with  his  favorite  animals,  but  this  request 
was  not  granted,  although  the  graves  of  his  favorites  were  shown 
to  us.  We  saw  the  remains  of  this  great  man  in  the  garrison 
church,  beneath  the  pulpit,  in  a  plain  metal  sarcophagus  above 
ground.  His  sword,  which  originally  lay  upon  it,  was  taken 
by  Napoleon  ;  but  in  place  of  that  there  hung  on  each  side 
the  pulpit  the  standards  taken  by  the  Prussian  armies  from 
Napoleon. 

The  new  palace,  about  two  miles  from  Potsdam,  was  built 
at  enormous  cost  by  Frederic  the  Great  at  the  end  of  the 
Seven  Years'  War,  by  way  of  bravado,  to  show  that  his  funds 
were  not  exhausted.  It  contains  two  hundred  apartments.  One 
large  room  is  floored  with  marble  and  entirely  lined  with  shells 
and  minerals  of  all  kinds — a  very  peculiar  taste.  As  usual 
with  tbese  stately  palaces,  a  vast  amount  of  money  was  lavished 
in  marble,  gold  and  silver,  gilding,  &c. 

On  leaving  Potsdam  we  took  extra  post  to  Magdeburgh,  a 
distance  of  seventy  miles.  It  is  situated  on  the  Elbe,  with  a 
population  of  fifty-two  thousand.  It  has  a  fortress  of  the  first 
class,  and  owing  to  its  vast  extent  would  require  from  fifty  to 
seventy-five  thousand  men.  The  citadel  on  the  island  serves  as  a 
state  prison.  Gen.  Lafayette  was  confined  in  it.  The  famous 
Baron  Trenck  was  also  confined  in  one  of  the  prisons  here.  In 
1552  Magdeburgh  was  besieged  and  taken  b}^  Maurice,  king  of 
Saxony.  During  the  Thirty  Years'  War  it  resisted  the  army  of 
Wallenstein  seven  months,  but  was  afterwards  taken  by  the 
ferocious  Tilly,  who  murdered  thirty  thousand  inhabitants  with- 
out distinction  of  sex,  and  left  only  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
nine  houses  standing.  In  his  despatch  he  says,  "  never  was  vic- 
tory so  complete  since  the  destruction  of  Jerusalem  and  Troy," 

The  cathedral,  one  of  the  noblest  Gothic  buildings  in   Ger 


CASSEL.  57 

many,  built  in  1211,  and  recently  repaired  by  the  Prussian 
government  at  a  cost  of  three  hundred  thousand  dollars^  was 
saved  by  one  Bake,  a  schoolmate  of  Tilly.  It  contains  many 
curiosities  of  art.  At  this  city  we  regretted  parting  with  one  of 
our  travelling  companions,  who  took  a  steamer  for  Hamburgh, 
to  go  from  thence  to  London  or  Amsterdam.  My  present 
American  companion  and  myself  next  proceeded  to  Cassel,  the 
capital  of  the  Electorate  of  Hesse-Cassel,  one  hundred  and  forty 
miles  from  Magdeburgh.  In  passing  through  this  rich  agricul- 
tural country  I  observed,  in  addition  to  all  the  products  of  our 
northern  country,  vast  quantities  of  poppies  for  the  manufacture 
of  oil,  and  large  fields  of  beets  to  be  made  into  sugar. 

Fences  in  the  interior  of  this  country  are  unknown.  The 
same  may  be  said  of  most  parts  of  Austria  and  Prussia.  The 
farmers  cultivate  large  tracts  of  land,  but  live  in  villages.  All 
the  varieties  of  the  products  are  seen  from  the  road  in  passing, 
as  the  width  or  front  of  each  growing  crop  is  ordinarily  quite 
narrow  on  the  road,  and  so  arranged  in  most  instances  as  to 
extend  back  in  strips  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 

Cassel,  for  a  town  with  a  population  of  thirty  thousand,  con- 
tains much  to  attract  the  attention  of  a  traveller  for  a  few  days. 
In  the  Frederic  Platz,  a  very  large  square,  is  placed  a  statue 
of  the  Elector  Frederic,  who  was  one  of  the  number  that  elected 
the  Emperor  of  Germany  in  former  times.  To  that  prince 
Cassel  owes  its  embellishments  and  extravagant  works.  He  dis- 
graced himself  and  his  people  by  trafficking  in  the  lives  of  his 
subjects,  when  he  hired  them  out  to  the  King  of  Great  Britain 
to  fight  his  battle  in  America.  It  is  said  also  that  five  thousand 
Hessian  troops  were  hired  in  England,  with  the  consent  of  Par- 
liament, to  fight  against  the  Pretender  in  Scotland. 

Some  of  the  Hessians  are  still  living  who  went  to  America  in 
our  revolution.  I  have  seen  two  of  the  old  veterans  passing 
along  the  road,  with  ancient  chapeaux  that  reminded  me  of 
prints  I  had  seen  many  years  since.  Among  the  extravagances 
of  the  Elector,  was  the  construction  of  the  cascade  of  Carlsburgh, 
about  three  miles  from  the  town,  in  the  rear  of  the  palace  and 
grounds,  and  on  the  top  of  a  high  hill.  You  ascend  a  flight  of 
nine  hundred  and  two  steps  from  the  base  to  the  top  of  the  hill. 
A  carriage  road  leads  by  the  side  of  this  gigantic  staircase,  in 
zigzags,  to  the  summit.     To  the  left  of  the  steps,  ascending,  are 


58  MAKBURG. 

■flat  stones  laid  one  above  another,  very  like  a  huge  stairs,  but 
with  a  greater  acclivity,  from  the  top  of  which  the  water  is  per- 
mitted to  fall  whenever  it  is  desired,  forming  a  beautiful  cascade. 
The  summit  is  surmounted  by  an  octagon  temple,  called  the 
Temple  of  the  Winds,  on  which  is  raised  an  obelisk,  serving  as 
a  j)edestal  for  a  colossal  Hercules,  thirty-one  feet  high,  of  beaten 
copper.  It  is  possible  to  get  np  into  the  figure,  and  eight  per- 
sons can  stand  in  the  hollow  of  the  club,  and  out  of  a  little 
window  is  one  of  the  most  extended  views  imaginable.  The  aqua- 
tic staircase,  octagon  temple  and  statue,  altogether,  employed  two 
thousand  men  twenty -four  years.  When  finished,  the  expenses 
were  found  to  be  so  enormous  that  the  accounts  were  burned  to 
destroy  all  record  of  them. 

Attached  to  the  palace  is  a  theatre,  which  was  built  by  Joseph 
Bonaparte,  in  which  he  himself  used  to  act.  The  grounds  and 
walks  are  very  beautiful,  and  once  a  week  the  principal  fountain 
plays.  It  is  the  highest  in  Europe,  and  throws  up  a  jet  of  water 
two  hundred  feet  perpendicular,  and  twelve  inches  in  diameter. 
It  is  supplied  from  reservoirs  three  hundred  feet  higher  up  the 
hill.  Here  are  also  artificial  waterfalls,  bridges,  aqueducts,  &c., 
finished  at  great  cost. 

From  Cassel  to  Frankfort  we  travelled  by  Lohnkutch,  which 
is  a  private  conveyance,  making  the  distance,  one  hundred  and 
six  miles,  in  two  days,  stopping  to  dine  and  lodge.  We  had 
also  an  opportunity  to  examine  any  remarkable  church,  manu- 
facturing establishment,  or  other  curiosity  that  might  be  attrac- 
tive. Through  Austria,  Hungar}^,  Saxony,  and  Prussia,  we  had 
all  the  varieties  of  travelling  conveyances,  known  by  such  titles 
as  Eilwagen,  Schnellpost,  Stellwagen,  Bauernpost,  Eisenbahnen, 
Railroad,  Extra  post,  Zugkutcher,  &c. 

On  the  route  from  Cassel  to  Frankfort,  we  stopped  over 
night  at  the  town  of  Marburg.  Its  only  object  of  curiosity  is 
the  church  of  St.  Elizabeth,  a  beautiful  specimen  of  the  early 
Grothic  pointed  style  of  architecture,  and  in  most  perfect  preser- 
vation, begun  in  the  year  1231,  and  completed  in  forty-eight 
years.  In  one  part  of  the  church  is  the  richly  ornamented 
Gothic  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Elizabeth,  the  Landgravine  of 
Ilesse,  who  was  canonized  for  the  sanctity  of  her  life  in  1231. 
The  carved  tablet  represents  the  saint  lying  on  her  coffin,  sur- 
rounded by  cripples  and  sick  persons,  the  objects  of  her  bounty 


FKANKFORT.  59 

Her  soul  is  seen  hovering  above,  on  its  way  to  Heaven,  whence 
Christ  extends  his  hands  to  receive  her.  The  stone  steps  around 
it  are  worn  hollow  by  the  knees  of  pilgrims,  who  have  resorted 
here  for  ages.  There  is  now  a  partition  through  the  church, 
for  the  accommodation  of  Catholics  and  Lutherans,  -who  will 
never  meet  together. 

In  some  parts  of  Bavaria  and  Austria,  the  pilgrimages  are 
still  kept  up.  Thousands  and  tens  of  thousands  every  year 
make  a  journey  to  the  shrine  of  some  favorite  saint,  to  kiss 
some  precious  relic,  or  worship,  in  all  but  pagan  idolatry, 
before  some  miracle-working  picture  or  statue  of  the  Virgin. 
At  one  place  I  saw  as  many  as  a  thousand  men,  women,  and 
girls,  who  were  setting  out  on  a  journey  to  Maria  Zella,  a 
celebrated  pilgrimage  place  in  the  Styrian  Alps.  They  entered 
the  cathedral  from  which  they  started,  in  procession,  kissed  the 
cross,  made  their  prayers,  and  then  marched  forth  on  their  pious 
tour  on  foot,  many  with  scanty  clothing  to  protect  them  from 
the  storms,  and  with  miserable  supplies  of  food,  carried  in  sacks 
or  baskets,  to  sustain  them  on  their  fatiguing  march.  But  such 
are  the  severe  burdens  that  superstition,  ignorance,  and  bigotry 
impose  upon  their  wretched  subjects. 


XIX. 

Cologne,  Prussia,  Aug.  16,  1841. 
Frankfort,  from  which  I  wrote  last,  is  one  of  the  free  towns 
of  Europe,  being  governed  by  a  senate  of  its  own ;  but  it  is 
considerably  influenced  by  Austria  and  Prussia.  Its  territory 
is  limited,  not  exceeding  ten  square  miles,  and  the  city  and 
environs  contain  a  population  of  fifty-two  thousand — five  thou- 
sand of  whom  are  Jews.  It  is  quite  a  lively  city,  the  walls  of 
which  were  levelled  many  years  since  and  planted  with  trees, 
which  now  afford  a  delightful  shade  and  promenade,  being  inter- 
spersed with  a  variety  of  plants  and  flowers.  The  desire  for 
shade  and  fine  promenades  is  an  admirable  feature  in  the  Euro- 
pean character,  and  in  almost  all  cities  I  have  yet  visited  on  the 
Continent,  I  find  the  taste  for  agreeable  and  shady  public  walks 
to  be  prevalent;  and  I  regret  that  their  utility  is  so  little 
considered   in  our  own'  beautiful   country,  especially  as   thej* 


60  THE   ROTHSCHILDS. 

are  greatly  conducive  to  health,  as  well  as  comfort  and  plea- 
sure. 

Frankfort  is  the  seat  of  the  German  diet,  and  the  deliberations 
of  the  Confederation  of  the  German  States  are  held  there.  It 
is  the  residence  of  many  foreign  ambassadors  and  wealthy  mer- 
chants, and  from  the  extent  of  its  monied  transactions,  may  be 
called  the  city  of  bankers ;  the  most  prominent  of  them  is 
Baron  Rothschild,  who  lives  in  princely  style,  having  a  magnifi- 
cent villa  and  pleasure  grounds  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city. 
Frankfort  was  the  cradle  of  the  Rothschild  family  ;  the  house  in 
which  they  were  born  is  in  the  Judenstrasse,  or  Jews'  street, 
which  is  narrow,  with  gaunt  old  buildings  and  gable  ends  to  the 
street.  The  houses  never  having  been  cleaned  or  painted,  the 
dust  and  smoke  of  centuries  are  upon  them.  I  was  directed  to 
the  house,  which  the  mother  of  the  Rothschilds  still  occupies, 
and  which,  since  it  is  the  old  homestead  of  the  family,  narrow 
and  confined  as  it  is,  she  refuses  to  leave  for  the  palace  of  her 
son,  not  far  distant. 

The  condition  of  the  Jews  here  is  much  ameliorated.  For- 
merly, the  part  of  the  city  they  occupy  was  closed  by  gates  at 
an  early  hour ;  and  another  tyrannical  law  restricted  the  number 
of  marriages  among  them  to  thirteen  yearly.  Both  of  those 
oppressions  are  now  removed. 

There  are  many  objects  of  interest  to  occupy  the  attention  at 
Frankfort.  The  banker  to  whom  my  letter  was  addressed,  had 
a  gallery  of  works  of  art.  Among  the  sculpture,  a  piece  repre- 
senting Ariadne  is  the  most  prominent,  and  considered  the  lion 
of  Frankfort ;  it  is  the  figure  of  a  female  resting  gracefully  on 
the  back  of  a  tiger,  beautifully  executed,  of  pure  Carrara  mar- 
ble. The  gallery  is  liberally  thrown  open  to  the  public.  Before 
leaving  the  city,  I  thought  it  would  not  be  unprofitable  or  unin- 
teresting to  visit  the  new  cemetery,  and  take  a  melancholy  but 
impressive  w£ilk  among  the  abodes  of  the  dead,  as  I  had  done 
while  at  Leipsig  and  some  other  German  cities,  as  the  cemeteries 
are  places  of  public  resort  at  all  hours,  and  the  gates  always 
stand  open  during  the  day.  One  of  the  peculiarities  of  the 
German  character  is  their  veneration  for  the  abodes  of  the  dead. 
The  grounds  are  beautifully  and  tastefully  laid  out,  with  walks 
adorned  with  shade  trees  and  every  variety  of  flowers.  At  one 
end  of  the  inclosure  is  a  long  and  beautiful  arcade,  under  which 


WIESBADEN.  61 

repose,  beneath  pompous  monuments,  the  rich  and  noble.  Other 
parts  of  the  ground  are  thickly  studded  with  crosses,  grave- 
stones, and  monuments,  among  which  may  be  seen  groups  of 
young  and  old,  entwining  wreaths  of  flowers  and  evergreens 
around  the  monuments  of  those  they  loved,  or  perhaps  placing 
a  basin  of  holy  water,  or  arranging  a  little  border  of  flowers,  by 
the  side  of  some  new-made  grave.  I  saw  many  new  graves 
strewed  over  with  strips  of  lace,  with  tassels  of  gold  and  silver 
attached,  on  many  of  which  the  name  and  age  of  the  deceased 
were  imprinted. 

A  police  regulation  here  requires  that  all  bodies  for  interment 
shall  be  placed  in  the  dead-house  for  a  certain  length  of  time,  to 
guard  against  accidents  by  burial  in  cases  of  suspended  anima- 
tion. The  building  contains  ten  rooms  for  the  bodies,  and  a 
room  in  the  centre  for  a  watchman  ;  also  a  room  provided  with 
beds,  medicines,  and  all  other  necessary  articles,  in  case  of  the 
reviving  of  a  subject.  The  fingers  of  the  prostrate  corpses  are 
placed  in  the  loops  of  a  string  attached  to  an  alarm  clock ;  and 
on  the  slightest  motion  or  pulsation  of  the  body,  it  gives  the 
alarm  to  the  watchman,  who  immediately  summons  assistance. 
But  I  will  dwell  no  longer  in  the  places  of  the  dead,  but  return 
to  the  ways  of  the  living. 

On  leaving  Frankfort  I  visited  Wiesbaden,  which  is  the 
capital  of  the  Duchy  of  Nassau,  and  has  a  population  of  ten 
thousand.  Thousands  resort  thither  for  health  and  pleasure,  and 
the  efficacy  of  its  baths ;  it  being  favorably  situated,  and  con- 
nected with  Mayence  on  the  Ehine,  and  Frankfort,  by  railroad, 
it  is  more  frequented  than  any  of  the  German  watering-places. 
My  stay  at  this  place  of  bustle  and  high  life  was  short,  but  to 
give  an  idea  of  it,  I  will  state  that  on  our  arrival  at  the  junction 
of  the  railroad,  we  pursued  our  way  to  the  Kurrsaal,  the  promi- 
nent hotel  of  the  town,  through  a  long  line  of  beautiful  sycamore 
trees.  Having  arrived  at  the  usual  dinner  hour  (one  o'clock), 
we  found  a  magnificent  saloon,  with  three  hundred  guests  at 
table,  and  a  band  of  music  playing  in  the  same  room.  As  there 
were  no  vacancies,  we  ordered  dinner  at  a  later  hour,  and  in  the 
meantime  visited  the  springs,  and  strolled  through  the  beautiful 
grounds  by  the  side  of  a  lake,  on  which  white  swans  were  seen 
gliding  gracefully  over  the  surflice  ;  the  banks  were  lined  with 
dahlias  and  other  flowers.     One  spring  has  the  appearance  of  a 


62  MAYENCE. 

boiling  cauldron,  with  a  temperature  of  one  hundred  and  fifty- 
six  degrees  Fahrenheit.  Its  waters  are  used  for  drinking,  and 
taste  very  much  like  weak  chicken  broth.  It  supplies  many 
baths,  and  the  quantity  that  runs  to  waste  is  very  considerable. 
In  addition  to  this  principal  one,  there  are  thirteen  other  springs. 

On  returning  from  our  interesting  walk,  we  saw  many  groups 
descending  the  hill  on  donkeys,  which  are  always  ready  to 
convey  visitors  to  the  heights  about  Wiesbaden,  to  enjoy  the 
fine  view  up  and  down  the  Ehine.  To  my  surprise,  on  returning 
to  the  hotel,  I  found  the  grand  saloon  converted  to  a  use  which 
is  not  tolerated  publicly  at  any  of  the  Austrian  and  Prussian 
watering-places  that  I  have  yet  visited.  Here  they  have  a 
special  privilege  from  the  government  to  gamble  in  public. 
Among  the  many  hundreds  of  visitors,  some  were  occupied  in 
promenading,  or  in  sipping  coffee  and  ices  under  the  shade  of 
the  trees ;  others  were  engaged  in  play  at  the  different  games, 
and  among  them  were  many  well  dressed  ladies  taking  part 
with  all  the  coolness  and  gravity  possible.  Such  are  the  cus- 
toms, and  such  is  life,  among  the  gentry  who  collect  here.  The 
grand  saloon  of  the  hotel  I  found  to  be  occupied  regularly  for 
four  distinct  purposes ;  that  of  a  dining,  a  ball,  an  assembly, 
and  a  gambling  room. 

I  next  visited  Mayence  on  the  Rhine,  a  town  with  a  popula- 
tion of  thirty-one  thousand.  It  is  strongly  garrisoned  with  Aus- 
trian and  Prussian  troops,  being  the  chief  fortress  of  the  German 
confederation.  The  troops  stationed  here  vary  from  eight  thou- 
sand to  sixteen  thousand.  Every  town  or  city  has  something 
peculiar,  or  some  attractive  sights  command  the  attention  of  the 
visitor;  but  there  are  few  remarkable  things  about  Mayence. 
Its  cathedral,  which  was  built  in  the  tenth  century,  is  noted  for 
its  antiquity.  Europe  is  indebted  to  Mayence  for  two  things, 
which  have  had  the  greatest  influence  in  effecting  human 
improvement — free  trade  and  the  printing-press.  The  art  of 
printing  was  first  known  in  Mayence,  and  it  was  the  birthplace 
of  John  Guttenberg,  one  of  the  associates  of  the  celebrated  Faust 
in  the  invention  and  early  promotion  of  the  art.  The  town  is 
connected  with  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  by  a  bridge  of  boats 
one  thousand  six  hundred  and  sixty-six  feet  long. 

At  Mayence  I  took  the  steamer  for  Coblentz,  and  visited 
Ehrenbreitstein,  the  Gibraltar  of  the  Rhine,  an  immense  fortifica 


RHINE  SCENERY.  63 

tion  on  the  opposite  side,  about  eight  hundred  feet  high,  on  a 
rock  with  steep  slopes.  It  has  cost  the  Prussian  government 
four  milhons  of  dollars.  Capable  of  holding  fourteen  thousand 
men,  the  magazines  are  large  enough  to  contain  provisions  for 
eight  thousand  men  ten  years.  The  view  from  the  heights  is 
splendid,  the  banks  of  the  "  Blue  Moselle,"  with  the  bridge  of 
boats,  and  other  interesting  sights,  being  directly  opposite. 

But  the  scenery  along  the  Rhine,  so  celebrated  throughout 
Europe,  and  so  worthy  of  admiration,  no  pen  can  justly  describe. 
It  is  of  such  a  varied,  delightful,  and  interesting  character  that  it  is 
impossible  to  convey  an  adequate  idea  of  its  beauties.  No  river 
in  the  world  combines  so  many  picturesque  and  magnificent 
views  with  so  many  historical  associations.  Its  variety  of  wild 
and  precipitous  rocks,  thick  and  gloomy  forests,  ruined  castles, 
strongholds  of  the  robber  knights  of  former  times,  ruins  of  all 
descriptions,  monuments,  fortresses  frowning  from  the  lofty  sum- 
mits of  the  rocky  elevations,  with  fertile  plains,  wide-spreading 
vineyards,  towns  and  villages  almost  line  the  banks  between 
Mayence  and  Coblentz.  But  this  is  the  most  interesting  part  of 
the  river. 

The  vine  is  very  extensively  cultivated  along  the  Ehine,  pro- 
ducing some  of  the  most  celebrated  wines.  In  some  places  the 
vineyards  are  nothing  more  than  a  succession  of  terraces,  extend- 
ing from  five  hundred  to  one  thousand  feet  high,  up  the  face  of 
a  hill,  and  frequently  comprising  from  fifteen  to  twenty,  each 
supported  by  a  front  wall  from  five  to  eight  feet  high. 


XX. 

Amsterdam,  Holland,  Aug.  24,  1841. 
In  my  last  from  Cologne  I  promised  to  say  something  descrip- 
tive of  its  attractions,  and  its  being  termed  the  Rome  of  the 
north.  For  its  origin  and  antiquity  it  is  deserving  of  notice ; 
besides,  it  is  a  commercial  city,  and  the  largest  on  the  Rhine. 
History  says  Cologne  was  founded  by  the  Romans,  and  that 
Agrippina,  the  mother  of  Nero,  was  born  here.  The  cathedral, 
which  was  commenced  in  the  year  1248,  by  the  Elector  and 
Archbishop  of  Cologne,  has  remained  up  to  the  present  between 
a  fragment  and  a  ruin.     If  it  had  been  finished,  it  would  have 


64  THE  CATHEDEAL  OF  COLOGNE. 

been  one  of  the  prettiest  Gothic  edifices  existing.  Tlie  choir  is 
the  only  part  completed.  It  is  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet 
high,  and  internally,  from  its  height,  size,  and  disposition  of 
arches,  chapels,  and  beautifully  colored  windows,  strikes  one 
with  awe  and  astonishment.  The  entire  length  of  the  cathedral 
is  four  hundred  feet,  its  breadth  one  hundred  and  sixty.  The 
towers,  which  were  only  partly  finished,  were  to  have  been  five 
hundred  feet  high.  In  a  small  chapel  is  the  celebrated  shrine 
of  the  three  kings  of  Cologne,  or  the  Magi,  who  came  from  the 
East  with  rich  gifts  for  the  infant  Jesus.  The  bones  were 
obtained  by  the  Emperor  Barbarossa  and  presented  to  the 
Bishop  of  Cologne.  By  a  payment  to  the  sacristan  we  entered 
the  inclosure,  which  is  under  double  locks.  The  case,  or  coffin, 
in  which  they  are  deposited,  is  of  solid  silver  gilt,  about  six  feet 
long,  three  high,  and  three  wide,  and  is  curiously  wrought — sur- 
rounded by  small  arcades,  supported  by  silver  pillars,  and  by 
figures  of  the  apostles.  The  case  is  enriched  with  cameos, 
enamels,  antique  gems,  diamonds,  rubies,  and  other  precious 
stones  in  abundance.  The  skulls  of  the  three  kings,  inserted 
with  their  names,  Gaspar,  Melchior,  and  Balthazar,  written  in 
rubies,  are  exhibited  to  view  through  an  opening  in  the  shrine, 
crowned  with  diadems.  The  sacristan  says  the  treasures  are 
worth  six  million  francs.  There  are  many  other  relics  of  saints, 
church  plate,  &c.,  exhibited. 

The  church  of  St.  Ursula  and  of  the  eleven  thousand  vir- 
gins is  too  singular  to  be  forgotten.  As  the  legend  goes, 
St,  Ursula,  with  eleven  thousand  virgins,  set  sail,  in  the 
second  or  third  century,  I  think,  from  Britain  for  Armenia, 
and  was  carried  by  tempest  up  the  Rhine,  where  the  whole  l^arty 
were  slaughtered  by  the  barbarian  Huns  because  they  refused  to 
break  their  vows  of  chastity.  In  the  church,  which  is  large  and 
commodious,  in  cases  beneath  and  around  the  altars,  inclosed 
and  built  in  the  walls,  are  these  hideous  bones.  They  are  dis- 
played in  gaunt  array,  in  glass  cases,  about  the  choir  and  the 
altar.  In  the  golden  chamber,  encased  in  silver,  a  select  few  of 
the  number  are  deposited,  while  St.  Ursula  reposes  in  a  coffin 
behind  the  altar.  The  walls  in  this  church  are  decorated  with 
bones,  flishioned  in  all  fantastic  shapes.  One  of  the  stone  ves- 
sels is  here  shown  which  Christ  used  at  the  marriage  supper,  and 
in  which  he  converted  water  into  wine. 


CLEANING  DAY.  65 

On  leaving  Cologne,  by  steamer,  we  descended  to  Nymwegen, 
the  first  frontier  fortress  of  Holland,  which  we  entered  without 
a  very  strict  examination  of  luggage.  On  sallying  forth  the 
morning  following  my  arrival,  I  was  forcibly  struck  with  the 
unusual  cleanliness  and  neatness  of  the  Dutch,  particularly  as 
the  day  previous  I  had  left  Cologne,  which  is  not  only  cele- 
brated for  Eau  de  Cologne,  but  for  its  filth.  We  left  Nymwe- 
gen for  Utrecht  by  diligence,  and  it  being  Saturday,  the  general 
"  schoonmaking,"  or  cleaning  day,  I  had  a  fine  opportunity  of 
witnessing  what  may  be  termed  an  excess  of  cleanliness,  in  pass- 
ins;  through  several  small  villages  before  arriving  at  Utrecht, 
Almost  every  house  presented  a  scene  of  the  utmost  activity. 
The  brushing,  scrubbing,  and  mopping  are  not  confined  to  the 
inside  of  the  house,  the  steps,  and  door-ways,  but  the  windows, 
walls,  and  sidewalks  must  undergo  a  course  of  ablution. 
Scarcely  a  domestic  is  seen  without  a  water-pail  and  broom,  or 
a  small  engine  pump  for  throwing  water  to  wash  the  windows, 
and  a  traveller  stands  a  small  chance  of  avoiding  a  shower  bath, 
if  he  walks  carelessly  along  the  sidewalks.  The  drawing-room 
is  a  sort  of  sanctum,  and  is  said  to  be  rarely  entered  oftener  than 
once  a  week,  and  then  only  by  the  housewife  and  her  maid, 
with  list  shoes,  to  avoid  scratching  the  polished  floors.  After 
having  finished  washing  and  dusting,  the  door  is  closed,  and 
windows  fastened  for  another  week.  Sabots,  or  wooden  shoes, 
are  generally  worn  during  the  purification,  and  after  the  work 
is  finished  they  must  undergo  a  regular  wash  as  well  as  the 
brooms  and  other  articles  used  in  cleaning. 

One  of  the  peculiarities  of  the  Dutch  towns  is  the  little  mirrors 
projecting  in  front  of  the  windows  of  almost  all  the  houses. 
Ordinarily  they  are  two  pieces  of  looking-glass  framed  at  an 
angle  of  forty -five  degrees  from  each  other,  the  one  reflecting  up 
the  street  and  the  other  down,  whereby  the  Dutch  ladies  may 
sit  ensconced  behind  the  blinds  or  curtains,  and  see  all  that  is 
passing  'in  the  street,  and  not  expose  themselves  to  the  gaze  of 
the  public. 

At  Utrecht,  a  city  with  a  population  of  forty-four  thousand, 
we  found  sufficient  to  entertain  us  for  a  day.  On  ascending  the 
steeple  of  the  cathedral,  three  hundred  and  eighty-eight  feet 
high,  we  obtained  a  view  of  the  surrounding  country,  which  is  a 
perfect   flat,    watered    by   canals    in    different    directions,    and 

5 


bb  UTRECHT. 

avenues  of  trees,  all  planted  bj  the  rule,  witli  an  occasional 
windmill  and  steeple  in  the  distance,  to  break  the  monotony  of 
a  Dutch  landscape.  Half  way  up  to  the  top  we  were  introduced 
into  a  room  where  refreshments  are  furnished,  and  found  the 
family  of  the  sexton,  who  had  lived  there  thirty  years  and  reared 
a  family.  While  resting  we  enjoyed  the  merry  chime  of  thirty 
or  forty  bells  in  the  steeple,  which  is  repeated  every  hour. 

On  leaving  Utrecht  we  took  the  national  conveyance,  the 
treckschuite,  or  canal  boat,  which  does  not  differ  very  materially 
in  size  from  our  Erie  canal  boats,  with  the  exception  of  having 
separate  apartments  for  the  accommodation  of  different  classes 
of  passengers.  The  towing  horse  is  ridden  by  a  lad,  who  is 
very  dexterous,  in  passing  bridges  and  other  vessels,  in  disengag- 
ing the  tow  rope  without  impeding  the  progress  of  the  boat. 
The  canals  in  Holland  run  in  all  directions  through  the  country 
and  through  the  towns  and  cities,  and  are  the  great  highroad 
for  the  transportation  of  goods  and  passengers.  The  conse- 
quence is,  that  in  the  vicinity  of  large  towns  and  cities,  on  the 
principal  canals,  which  are  about  sixty  feet  wide  and  six  feet 
deep,  are  located  many  beautiful  villas,  country  seats,  and  plea- 
sure gardens. 

On  the  entire  route  to  this  city,  since  I  have  entered  Holland, 
either  along  the  highway  or  along  the  canal,  especially  in  the  vici- 
nity of  populous  cities,  I  have  discovered  the  abodes  of  those  who 
seemed  to  study  cleanliness  and  comfort.  In  the  suburbs  of  the 
cities  you  will  find  those  country-seats  where  great  wealth  is 
expended.  At  the  end  of  the  gardens  overlooking  the  canal,  or 
naain  road,  is  always  placed  a  small  temple,  pagoda,  or  snug,  com- 
fortable building,  where  you  will  see  the  men  smoking  their  pipes 
and  sipping  their  beer,  or  the  ladies  their  tea  and  coffee,  engaged  in 
knitting,  or  criticising  the  passers-by.  Perhaps  there  is  no  coun- 
try in  the  world  where  flowers  grow  to  such  perfection  as  in 
Holland,  and  nowhere  have  I  seen  such  an  array  of  plants  and 
flowers  as  these  gardens  contain.  The  roads  for  wagons  and 
diligences  run  along  the  line  of  the  canal,  or  upon  the  dykes 
which  are  thrown  up  to  protect  the  influx  of  the  sea.  The  soil 
is  of  such  a  nature  that  roads  are  constructed  with  difficulty,  and 
at  an  expense  of  seven  thousand  dollars  per  mile,  all  of  hard 
burned  brick  placed  edgeways.  In  traversing  the  canals  in 
many  instances,  you  look  down  upon  the  "polders"  (so  called) 


AMSTERDAM.  67 

on  both  sides,  with  the  cattle  grazing  flir  below  the  surface  of  the 
water  jou  are  navigating.  Those  polders  are  frequently  liable 
to  inundation  during  the  winter  season.  You  observe  hundreds 
of  windmills  employed  in  sawing  timber,  grinding  wheat,  and 
other  occupations,  and  among  the  number,  in  passing  along,  you 
discover  many  pumping  the  water  from  low  grounds,  or  polders, 
that  lie  below  you,  and  throwing  it  into  the  canal.  It  may  well 
be  said  that  the  Hollander  has  made  the  wind  his  slave,  for  not 
a  puff  of  air  is  suffered  to  escape  without  turning  a  windmill. 

Amsterdam  is  a  large  commercial  city,  with  a  population  of 
over  two  hundred  thousand,  and  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
cities  in  Europe  for  its  peculiar  location,  being  intersected  by 
various  small  canals,  which  divide  it  into  ninety-five  islands 
with  two  hundred  and  ninety  bridges.  Had  I  not  seen  Venice, 
which  is  still  more  remarkable,  I  should  have  considered  it  very 
extraordinary.  The  entire  city,  quays  and  sluices,  are  all 
founded  on  piles,  which  are  driven  through  the  upper  stratum  of 
mud  and  loose  sand  until  they  reach  the  firm  sand  below.  The 
palace  of  the  king  is  a  large  and  imposing  building  of  stone, 
standing  upon  thirteen  thousand  six  hundred  and  ninety-five 
piles.  The  second  day  after  my  arrival  a  grand  fete  took  place, 
and  towards  evening  I  strolled  up  the  main  street,  crossing 
many  bridges,  to  the  suburbs  of  the  city,  passing  through  an 
immense  crowd  of  persons,  and  among  the  number  I  should 
think  there  were  all  of  ten  thousand  females,  most  of  them 
without  bonnets.  I  seldom  attempt  a  description  of  costume, 
but  I  must  here  observe  that  the  females  in  Holland  are  parti- 
cularly distinguished  for  neatness  and  gracefulness  of  cos- 
tume, as  well  as  clearness  of  complexion.  To  see  such  an 
immense  group,  very  many  of  whom  were  domestics,  all  in 
tastefully  arranged  caps  and  head-dresses,  was  a  novel  sight. 
Numbers  have  the  back  of  the  head  encircled  by  a  broad  fillet 
of  gold,  shaped  like  the  letter  U,  which  confines  the  hair  and 
terminates  on  each  side  of  the  temple  with  two  long  rosettes, 
also  of  gold.  Over  this  is  worn  a  cap,  or  veil,  of  finest  lace, 
hanging  down  the  neck,  with  a  pair  of  enormous  gold  earrings. 
Among  the  group  I  discovered  many  orphan  children,  who  have 
their  particular  dresses  to  distinguish  them. 

The  people  of  Amsterdam  are  celebrated  for  their  charitable 
institutions.     One  particular  costume,  for  male  and    female,    I 


68  ROTTERDAM. 

observed,  was  red  and  black  cloth,  extending  from  the  shoulders 
to  the  feet,  which  reminded  me  of  the  dress  of  a  clown,  red  one 
side  and  black  the  other;  and  I  could  not  but  pity  the  wearers, 
especially  young  females,  who  were  thus  made  so  conspicuous 
in  the  eyes  of  strangers. 


XXI. 

Rotterdam,  August  30,  1841. 

Well,  at  last  I  am  in  Rotterdam,  and  I  assure  you  I  was 
heartily  glad  to  reach  this  city,  as  one  may  rest  quietly  for  a  few 
days  without  seeing  extraordinary  sights.  Rotterdam  is  a  fine 
commercial  city,  with  a  population  of  seventy-four  thousand, 
and  exceedingly  novel  and  interesting  to  a  stranger  who  has 
just  arrived  in  the  country ;  but  to  one  who  has  made  the  tour 
of  Holland  it  possesses  none  of  those  extraordinary  sights  which 
a  traveller  is  in  duty  bound  to  see.  The  remark  may  appear 
strange  that  one  becomes  tired  and  exhausted  with  sights ;  but  in 
a  long  line  of  travel,  in  visiting  cities  in  rapid  succession,  where  a 
sort  of  obligation  is  imposed  upon  every  good  traveller  to  see  all 
that  is  remarkable,  it  becomes  laborious. 

During  tbe  time  we  tarried  at  Amsterdam,  we  made  an  ex- 
cursion to  Broeck,  celebrated  as  the  cleanest  village  in  the 
world.  It  has  a  population  of  eight  hundred  persons.  In  making 
this  excursion  we  passed  through  a  part  of  the  great  ship  canal, 
which  is  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  wide,  twenty-one  feet 
deep,  and  fifty  miles  long.  Two  ships  can  enter  side  by  side. 
After  leaving  this  we  took  a  conveyance  which  runs  by  the  side 
of  a  lateral  canal,  on  which  are  seen  men  and  women,  harnessed 
like  horses,  trailing  the  canal  boats  to  market.  On  arriving  at 
this  extraordinary  village  our  carriage  was  left  outside,  as  nei- 
ther horse  nor  wheel  is  permitted  within  the  precincts.  Our 
valet  leading  the  way,  we  proceeded,  in  pattens,  through  the 
various  passages  or  lanes,  which  are  paved  with  brick  or  little 
stones,  the  paths  being  composed  of  shells.  I  had  formed  an  idea 
of  the  extraordinary  neatness  of  the  place  from  the  accounts  I 
had  heard  of  it,  but  the  fantastical  arrangement  and  construction 
of  the  houses  exceeded  my  expectation.  The  houses  are  mostly 
wood  with  tile  roofs,  painted  and  varnished,  which  glitter  in  the 


SAAEDAM.  69 

sun.  The  buildings  are  most  scrupulously  painted  witli  dif- 
ferent colors,  many  representing  dijBferent  temples,  and  all  sorts 
of  architecture.  We  were  taken  to  the  garden  of  the  rich  cler- 
gyman of  the  village,  and  the  guide-book  describes  it  as  sur- 
passing all  the  others  in  its  absurdities,  and  in  the  miscellaneous 
nature  of  its  contents,  beating  the  "  groves  of  Blarney"  all  to 
nothing.  Here  are  pavilions,  arbors,  summer-houses,  pagodas, 
temples,  bridges,  &c.,  the  small  canals  running  through  the 
garden,  and  indeed  through  every  part  of  the  village.  Most  of 
the  front  doors  are  closed  during  the  week  until  the  housewife 
opens  the  door,  takes  down  the  shutters,  dusts  the  china  and  the 
furniture,  and  arranges  everything,  then  closes  it  for  another 
week,  unless  in  case  of  a  marriage,  a  funeral,  or  christening. 
The  residents  are  mostly  retired  merchants,  landed  proprietors, 
stockbrokers,  or  other  persons  who  have  made  fortunes.  In 
one  part  of  the  village  are  made  many  Dutch  cheeses.  We 
went  into  the  apartments  of  the  cows  in  one  house,  the  animals 
being  absent  from  home  in  the  fields.  The  pavement  was  of 
Dutch  tiles,  the  walls  and  partitions  of  boards,  scrubbed  as  clean 
as  a  dining  table.  We  were  permitted  to  enter  the  front  door  of 
one  of  the  sanctums  after  having  placed  our  feet  in  list  slippers 
to  avoid  soiling  the  floor,  and  it  is  said  that  the  Emperor  Alex- 
ander, on  visiting  Broeck,  was  compelled  to  comply  with  this 
usage ! 

Having  finished  our  excursion,  we  next  went  to  Saardam,  a 
place  with  a  population  of  nine  thousand,  and  remarkable  for  its 
four  hundred  windmills,  which  are  applied  to  all  uses.  Some 
of  them  are  of  immense  size,  with  wings  eighty  feet  in  diameter, 
and  have  houses  attached  to  them.  One  street  of  windmills  is 
five  miles  in  length.  The  next  remarkable  object  for  a  stranger 
is  the  hut  of  Peter  the  Great,  in  which  he  lived  while  working 
as  a  ship-carpenter,  in  1696.  The  building  is  of  rough  plank, 
and  consists  of  two  rooms;  in  one  is  a  cupboard,  used  as  his 
sleeping-place,  above  a  loft  entered  by  a  ladder.  The  property 
was  bought  by  the  sister  of  the  Emperor  Alexander,  and  is  now 
inclosed  in  a  case  of  brick-work,  with  shutters  to  close  in  bad 
weather.  Here  you  find  registers  filled  with  names,  and  the 
walls  of  the  hut  are  so  completely  covered  that  it  is  almost 
impossible  to  register  another  name. 

On  quitting  Amsterdam  we  took  the  railroad   to   Haarlem, 


70  HAARLEM. 

■which  route  is  accomplished  in  thirty  minutes.  It  has  a  popula- 
tion of  twenty-four  thousand,  and  its  environs  are  very  pretty. 
The  main  attraction  here  is  the  great  organ,  which  is  celebrated 
over  the  world.  Its  size  is  immense,  filling  up  the  whole  end 
of  the  Cathedral ;  it  has  five  thousand  pipes,  the  largest  fifteen 
inches  in  diameter;  two  of  them  are  thirty-two  feet,  and  eight 
sixteen  feet  long.  Its  power  is  wonderful  when  played  on  by 
the  organist  in  private,  with  all  the  variety  of  mutations  which 
it  is  capable  of  The  charge  for  a  private  performance  is 
thirteen  guilders,  for  one  person  or  a  party,  equal  to  five  dollars 
and  fifty  cents.  An  English  gentleman  had  just  employed  the 
organist  and  finished  when  our  party  applied  for  his  services. 
The  imitation  of  the  flute,  fife,  and  piano,  followed  by  the  loud 
charge  of  the  trumpet,  was  an  admirable  performance ;  after 
which  came  the  tinkling  of  bells,  which  one  could  scarce  believe 
came  from  the  pipes,  and  then  came  "the  storm,"  grand  and 
terrific  beyond  description,  the  mimic  thunder  roared  frightfully, 
and  the  walls  of  the  building  fiiirly  seemed  to  tremble.  The 
great  diapason  produced  a  sound  like  the  whizzing  of  the  machi- 
nery of  a  cotton  factory.  All  these  efforts  are  to  show  the 
strength  and  power  of  the  instrument.  An  ordinary  perform- 
ance is  of  the  most  rich  and  melodious  character. 

Our  next  city  to  visit  on  the  route  was  Leyden,  celebrated  in 
the  annals  of  Holland  as  having  resisted  the  siege  of  the  Spanish 
army  in  1573-4  for  four  months,  and  displayed  the  most  resolute 
patriotism.  At  a  period  of  extreme  exhaustion,  when  bread 
had  not  been  seen  for  seven  weeks,  and  pestilence  had  followed 
famine  and  carried  off  six  thousand  inhabitants,  and  when  the 
people  were  subsisting  on  horses,  dogs,  cats,  and  other  foul  ani- 
mals, then  it  was  they  came  to  the  resolution  to  open  the  dykes 
and  inundate  their  country  to  overwhelm  the  cruel  enemy, 
sooner  than  submit.  History  records  that  the  expedient  had  not 
an  immediate  effect,  but  as  if  Providence  soon  and  directly  inter- 
fered, the  wind  suddenly  changed  and  brought  in  the  sea  to  the 
walls  of  the  city,  drowning  thousands  of  the  Spaniards ;  and 
when  that  was  accomplished,  veered  as  suddenly  about  and  car- 
ried most  of  the  flood  back  again  so  as  to  enable  them  to  repair 
the  dykes.  Among  all  the  collections  of  Dutch  paintings  are 
some  portraying  the  horrors  of  that  dreadful  siege. 

Leyden  has  a  population  of  thirty-five  thousand,  and  differs 


THE   HAGUE.  71 

but  little  from  other  Datch  cities,  being  intersected  by  canals  in 
every  direction,  most  of  them  bordered  by  rows  of  trees;  the 
suburbs  are  beautiful,  with  many  pretty  villas  and  flower 
gardens.  There  are  several  collections  of  Chinese  and  Japanese 
articles,  as  the  Dutch  carry  on  a  great  trade  with  the  East.  I 
cannot  enumerate  the  objects  of  interest  further  in  Leyden,  as  I 
must  bear  in  mind  the  Hague,  the  next  city  which  we  visited, 
and  which  is  the  residence  of  the  Court. 

The  population  of  the  Hague  is  about  fifty-five  thousand. 
It  is  situated  about  three  miles  from  the  sea-shore,  intersected  by 
canals  in  every  direction,  the  waters  of  which  present  less 
activity  that  those  of  an}^  other  city  in  Holland.  We  visited 
Scheveningen,  a  small  fishing  town  near  the  sea  shore,  riding 
throuo-h  an  avenue  of  fine  shade  trees.  The  bathins;  establish- 
ments  are  much  resorted  to  by  the  nobility  and  persons  of  dis- 
tinction on  the  Continent,  who  take  up  their  residence  here 
during  the  summer.  The  "  Dunes,  "  so  called  here,  are  immense 
banks  of  sand,  thrown  up  by  the  wind,  and  forming  a  natural 
barrier  against  the  encroachments  of  thfe  sea.  The  sand  being 
very  light  is  scattered  by  the  wind,  but  in  order  to  preserve  the 
ridges  or  embankments  from  injury  they  are  secured  by  being 
planted  with  rushes,  or  matted  over  with  straw  and  reeds. 
Here  are  also  windmills  which  pump  up  the  water  from  the 
ocean,  which  runs  down  the  Hague,  and  displaces  the  stagnant 
water  from  the  canals,  forcing  it  into  another  canal  which  leads 
it  to  the  river  Meuse.  The  Hague  possesses  the  finest  picture 
gallery  in  Holland,  and  the  Royal  Cabinet  is  highly  interesting 
and  instructive.  The  Japanese  collection  is  the  largest  in 
Europe.  Among  a  thousand  other  relics  I  saw  the  armor  of 
Admiral  Von  Tromp,  bearing  marks  of  several  bullets.  He  was 
engaged  in  no  less  than  thirty- two  sea  fights,  conquered  the 
English  under  Blake  in  1652,  and  afterwards  sailed  through  the 
British  Channel  with  a  broom  at  his  masthead,  signifying  that 
he  would  sweep  the  ocean  of  all  foes. 

Since  our  arrival  at  the  Hague  we  have  made  an  excursion  to 
Schiedam,  famous  for  its  fine  gin,  of  which  there  are  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy-two  distilleries  in  that  small  town.  Thirty 
thousand  pigs  are  fed  on  the  refuse  grain.  It  is  a  neat,  pretty 
village,  surrounded  by  comfort  and  cheerfulness.  Throughout 
Holland  I  find  the  people  are  more  moral,  cleanlj^,  tcm2:)erate, 


72  STRASBURG. 

industrious,  and  strict  in  their  observance  of  the  Sabbath,  than 
in  any  other  part  of  the  Continent  that  I  have  visited.  It  is  a 
country  of  comfort  and  extortion — the  latter  because  the  taxes 
are  hio;h  and  the  necessaries  of  life  dear 


XXIL 

Milan,  Italy,  Nov.  1,  18-11. 

The  mail  post,  the  mode  of  conveyance  from  Paris  to  Stras- 
burg,  is  the  most  rapid  in  France.  The  number  of  passengers 
is  limited  to  three  persons,  with  a  stipulated  allowance  of  bag- 
gage. The  horses  are  changed  frequently  and  with  expedition, 
scarcely  giving  the  passengers  time  for  refreshment  on  the  road. 
But  on  this  route,  where  there  is  little  of  interest  to  be  seen,  it 
is  far  more  agreeable  than  the  Diligence,  The  distance  is 
nearly  three  hundred  miles,  which  were  accomplished  in  thirty- 
six  hours  and  a  half. 

Strasburg,  the  frontier  fortress  of  France,  is  situated  very 
near  the  banks  of  the  Rhine,  and  contains  a  population  of  sixty 
thousand,  and  a  garrison  of  six  thousand  men  in  time  of  peace. 
It  is  the  strongest  fortification  in  France.  It  has  the  appear- 
ance of  a  German  city,  and  that  language  is  much  spoken,  and 
altogether  it  appears  quite  unlike  France.  The  principal 
curiosity  here  is  the  cathedral,  one  of  the  noblest  Gothic  edifices 
in  Europe,  and  celebrated  for  its  spire,  which  is  the  highest  in  the 
world  :  it  is  four  hundred  and  seventy-four  feet  above  the  pave- 
ment. The  cathedral  was  commenced  in  the  eleventh  centurj-. 
It  is  the  most  remarkable  piece  of  open  airy  stonework 
imaginable.  It  was  not  finished  until  the  fifteenth  century, 
over  four  hundred  years  after  it  was  commenced.  To  ascend 
the  steeple  it  is  now  necessary  to  apply  to  the  magistrates 
of  the  city  for  permission,  as  several  persons  have  fallen  or 
thrown  themselves  off  the  top.  There  is  no  difiiculty  for  one 
with  firm  nerves  to  make  the  ascent,  but  the  stonework  of  the 
steeple  is  so  completely  open,  and  the  pillars  which  support  it  so 
wide  apart,  and  cut  so  thin,  that  they  nearly  resemble  bars  of 
iron  or  wood,  so  that  at  such  a  height  one  might  imagine  him- 
self suspended  in  a  cage  over  the  city,  and  if  the  foot  were  to 
slip  the  body  might  easily  drop  through    the   open   fretwork. 


BASLE,    BERNE,    FRIBURG.  73 

At  the  same  time  the  elaborate  work,  and  the  shapings  of  the 
angles  and  ornaments,  are  proofs  of  the  skill  of  the  architect  and 
the  excellent  materials  he  had  chosen.  The  interior  of  the 
building  is  rich,  but  what  strikes  the  eye  most  is  one  window  of 
painted  glass,  of  a  circumference  of  fifty  feet  diameter,  and  rising 
to  the  height  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  at  the  west  end  of 
the  nave. 

After  leaving  Strasburg  I  took  the  railroad  which  connects 
that  city  with  Basle  in  Switzerland,  running  through  an  inte- 
resting country,  nearly  one  hundred  miles.  Railroad  travel  is 
rather  a  novelty  for  the  French  and  Swiss,  being  quite  a  new 
enterprise  with  them. 

From  Basle  I  proceeded  to  Berne,  a  city  with  a  population  of 
twenty  thousand,  beautifully  situated  and  much  resorted  to 
during  the  summer  by  strangers.  The  scenery  of  this  part  of 
Switzerland  is  not  so  grand  and  majestic  as  the  mountain  views, 
but  the  country  is  undulating  and  productive.  The  varied  cos- 
tumes of  the  peasantry  in  the  different  Swiss  cantons  (of  which 
there  are  twenty-four  comprising  the  Republic),  strike  the  eye 
of  the  stranger  as  being  singular  and  beautiful. 

From  Berne  I  took  diligence  for  Friburg,  which,  in  addition 
to  its  magnificent  and  lofty  situation,  is  celebrated  for  its  suspen- 
sion iron  bridges ;  the  length  of  the  two  over  which  our  dili- 
gence passed  is  nine  hundred  and  three  feet,  their  height  one 
hundred  and  sixty- three  feet  above  the  river.  It  appears  fright- 
ful in  the  extreme  the  first  time  you  pass  the  bridge,  but  it  is 
considered  perfectly  safe.  The  other  bridge,  over  which  I  passed 
subsequently,  while  examining  the  work,  is  seven  hundred  feet 
long  and  two  hundred  and  eighty-five  feet  above  the  valley  over 
which  it  is  suspended.  During  heavy  gales  they  are  said  to 
vibrate  considerably. 

The  route  from  Friburg  to  Vevay,  situated  upon  the  lake 
of  Geneva,  is  very  beautiful,  passing  through  immense  vineyards 
loaded  with  fruit,  and  the  peasantry,  male  and  female,  are  busily 
employed  in  gathering  and  pressing  the  juice  of  the  grape; 
nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  the  snow-capped  mountains  in 
the  distance,  while  the  blue  and  limpid  Lake  of  Geneva  bathes 
the  shore  of  Vevay.  From  Vevay  I  took  the  steamer  on  the 
lake,  visiting  Lausanne,  a  city  of  some  importance,  and  beauti- 
fully situated  on  an  eminence  commandinsr  extensive  views  of 


74  EN  ROUTE  TO   MILAN. 

the  country  around.  I  next  took  the  steamer  and  traversed  the 
extent  of  the  lake  to  Geneva,  which  is  the  principal  and  largest 
city  in  Switzerland.  Here  are  generally  to  be  found  strangers 
from  all  quarters,  good  hotels,  reading  rooms,  and  all  the  com- 
forts and  necessaries  of  life  for  those  who  choose  to  make  it  a 
residence.  It  is  the  resort  of  many  wealthy  English.  The 
situation  upon  the  lake  at  the  outlet — the  beautiful  and  magnifi- 
cent scenery — its  public  promenades — its  interesting  suburbs 
and  adjacent  country — altogether  lend  many  charms  to  Geneva 
for  a  permanent  residence. 

About  six  miles  from  Geneva  is  the  chateau  and  villa  of  Vol- 
taire, to  which  most  strangers  pay  a  visit.  Here  are  shown 
many  relics — his  garments,  cane,  books,  correspondence,  &c. ; 
also  the  room  in  which  he  lodged,  which  contains  his  bed, 
furniture,  pictures,  &c.  Among  the  latter  I  discovered  a  portrait 
of  Dr.  Franklin,  who  once  paid  Voltaire  a  visit. 

On  quitting  Geneva  for  Milan,  to  pass  over  the  Simplon, 
which  traverses  the  Alps,  ten  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  I  was  compelled  to  take  the  diligence,  the  only  convey- 
ance which  left,  just  towards  night,  and  on  entering  Savoy,  in 
the  middle  of  the  night,  was  obliged  to  submit  to  the  abominable 
practice  of  police  authority,  the  examination  of  luggage  and 
delivery  of  passport,  and  in  the  entire  route  to  Milan  had  my 
baggage  examined  four  times.  After  riding  all  night  and  the 
following  day,  passing  through  the  most  wild  and  romantic 
scenery  imaginable,  with  occasional  cascades  from  the  moun- 
tains, we  arrived  at  a  little  village  called  Brieg.  In  order  to 
appropriate  an  entire  day  to  the  passage  of  the  Simplon,  travellers 
usually  sleep  at  Brieg  and  set  out  with  the  dawn  next  morning. 
The  journey  across  the  mountain  is  about  forty  miles,  and  gene- 
rally occupies  about  twelve  hours.  We  started  at  three  o'clock 
in  the  morning  in  the  ascent.  The  weather,  which  in  the  valley 
was  warm  and  agreeable,  began  to  change  sensibly ;  as  we  pro- 
ceeded the  cold  increased ;  finally  we  found  snov/,  and  much  to 
my  surprise,  at  length  were  compelled  to  leave  the  diligence 
and  take  wooden  sledges,  upon  which  was  lashed  the  luggage, 
while  the  passengers  rode  upon  rudely  constructed  sledges  with 
wooden  runners.  We  soon  found  the  cold  intense,  and  the  snow 
from  two  to  four  feet  deep.  Fortunately  for  me,  when  we  arrived 
at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  we  were  told  that  the  mountain 


THE  SIMPLON.  75 

was  almost  impassable;  the  passengers  had  been  detained  five 
days,  the  roads  being  blocked  up,  a  thing  almost  unprecedented 
even  on  the  Simplon  in  the  month  of  October.     We  provided 
ourselves  with  the  requisite  comforts  and  clothing  for  the  pas- 
sage.    This  passage  of  the  Alps,  planned  by  Napoleon  in  1801, 
was  finished  in  1805  by  the  governments  of  France  and  Italy. 
Its  breadth  is  twenty  feet;  the  number  of  the  bridges  thrown 
across   the   rocks   is  fifty,    and   the  number  of  grottoes  hewn 
through  the  solid  rocks  is  six.     There  are  placed  several  rude 
buildings  of  stone,  at  different  intervals,  for  the  shelter  of  the 
traveller  when  threatened  by  the  avalanches,  with  the  marks 
"Eefuge"  No,  1,  2,  3,  4,  &c.     On  the  summit  of  the  pass  stands 
the  new  hospice,  a  good  establishment  for  the  passengers,  begun 
by  Napoleon,  but  only  recently  completed.     It  is  occupied  by 
the   hospitable   monks   of  St.  Bernard,   who   showed   us  their 
famous  dogs  for  dragging  benighted  travellers  out  of  the  snow. 
At  the  point  where  vegetation  ceases,  and  where  the  avalanche 
has   swept  everything  before  it,  is  a  dreary  tunnel  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  through  which  we  passed,  which  is 
cut  through  the  rock  over  which  the  avalanches  tumble.     After 
emerging  you  pass  along  the  brink  of  a  precipice  of  immense 
depth.     We  started   early   in   order  to   avoid   the  avalanches 
which  commence  about   mid-day.     We    were   forced  in   some 
places  to  pass  over  beds  of  snow  twenty  feet  deep,  the  avalan- 
ches  having  blocked   up   the   road.     A  large  number  of  the 
hardy   pioneers   of  the   mountain   were   employed   with   their 
shovels  in  clearing  the  way.     At  about  three  p.m.  we  arrived 
over  the  side  of  the  mountain  at  the  little  village  of  Simplon, 
where  we  were  able  to  take  wagons,  as  the  snow  was  melting 
fast,  and  when  we   had  got  down  in  the  valle}^,  or  gorge  of  the 
rocks,  another  grand  scene  presented  itself.     The  snow  melting 
rapidly  formed  cascades  in  every  direction,  which  were  coursing 
down  the  ragged  and  perpendicular  rocks,  sometimes  exhibiting 
all  the  colors  of  the  rainbow,  and  at  others  foaming  in  torrents. 
Altogether  the  passage  of  the  Simplon,  under  the  circumstances 
in  which  I  crossed  it,  is  one  of  the  most  wild,  frightful,  and  yet 
grand  and  majestic  scenes  I  have  witnessed.     In  the  eaily  part 
of  the  evening  we  found  ourselves  at  Domo  d'Osola,  where  we 
lodged,  and  the  next  day  went  to  Bavano,  upon  the  Lago  Mag- 
giore,  where  we  stopped  to  visit  the  beautiful  and  enchanting 


76  LAGO   iTAGGIORE. 

islands  called  Isola  Bella  and  Isola  Madre,  which  I  will  speak  of 
in  my  next. 


XXIII. 

Trieste,  Austria,  Nov.  16,  1841. 

In  my  last  communication  from  Milan,  I  promised  to  speak 
of  the  charming  lake  called  in  Italian  Lago  Maggiore,  and  of  the 
enchanting  islands,  Isola  Madre  and  Isola  Bella.  The  lake  is 
about  forty  or  fifty  miles  in  length,  and  from  four  to  six  in 
breadth.  Its  shores  are  lined  with  forest  trees,  olives,  and  vine- 
yards, and  here  and  there  are  scattered  villages  and  hamlets, 
some  of  which  are  remarkable  for  elegance  of  construction. 
The  two  islands  above  named  contain  palaces  and  gardens 
belonging  to  the  family  of  San  Carlo  Boromeo.  On  visiting  the 
Isola  Madre,  which  is  about  one  and  a  half  miles  from  the  shore, 
we  were  delighted  on  seeing,  on  the  south  side,  four  gardens,  or 
rather  terraces,  rising  one  above  the  other,  embellished  with 
luxuriant  flowers,  shrubs,  forest  trees,  all  the  tropical  fruits,  &c., 
in  great  abundance,  and  crowned  with  a  palace.  But  we  were 
still  more  gratified  on  visiting  Isola  Bella,  about  a  mile  distant, 
which  is  certainly  the  most  remarkable  work  of  the  kind  I  ever 
saw — it  being  a  small  island,  occupied  entirely  with  gardens  and 
the  palace.  It  is  said  a  great  proportion  of  the  earth  was 
originally  carried  there.  The  southern  exposure  consists  of 
eight  terraces,  rising  one  above  the  other,  carpeted  with  flowers, 
oranges,  lemons,  and  other  fruits  in  profusion,  and  adorned  with 
an  immense  number  of  statues.  This  great  work  is  supported 
by  stone  arches,  which,  together  with  the  basement  or  lower 
story  of  an  immense  palace,  front  a  series  of  grottoes  tastefully 
fitted  up,  and  for  a  summer  abode  delightful.  Tlie  palace  in 
itself  is  magnificent,  and  loaded  with  all  the  valuables  that 
wealth  can  bestow,  in  sculpture,  paintings,  &c.  The  king  of 
Sardinia  has  passed  some  time  at  this  agreeable  spot.  What  is 
most  remarkable  is  in  the  position  of  the  island,  for  during  the 
winter,  while  the  mountains  in  the  vicinity  are  covered  with 
snow,  here  may  be  found  all  the  tropical  fruits  and  rare  plants 
from  all  parts  of  the  world. 

After  leaving  Lago  Maggiore,  we  proceeded  hy  diligence  to 


CATHEDRAL   OF   MILAN.  77 

Milan,  which  is  the  capital  of  Lombardy,  and  the  largest  city  in 
northern  Italy,  its  population  being  one  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand. There  are  many  attractions  in  it  calculated  to  detain  a 
traveller,  among  the  principal  of  which  is  the  Duomo,  or  cathe- 
dral, which  is  the  largest  in  Italy,  excepting  St.  Peter's  at  Eome. 
It  is  four  hundred  and  forty-nine  feet  long,  two  hundred  and 
seventy-five  broad,  and  the  height  two  hundred  and  thirty-six 
feet  to  the  top  of  the  cupola.  It  is  divided  into  five  parts  by  one 
hundred  and  sixty  columns  of  marble,  and  paved  with  the  same 
material.  Under  the  cathedral  is  a  sumptuously  decorated  cha- 
pel, which  was  open  while  I  was  there,  it  being  an  anniversary, 
and  thousands  during  the  day  passed  into  the  subterranean  cha- 
pel to  see  the  remains  of  San  Carlo  Boromeo,  which  are  inclosed 
in  a  crystal  sarcophagus,  adorned  with  gold  and  silver  gilt. 
His  figure  is  encased  with  superb  robes,  while  his  crosier  and 
mitre  rest  by  his  side.  His  countenance,  with  the  exception  of 
the  nose,  is  pretty  well  preserved.  The  interior  of  the  chapel  is 
also  covered  with  marble,  and  gold  and  silver  gilding,  extremely 
rich.  In  order  to  appreciate  this  immense  Gothic  edifice,  it  is 
necessary  to  mount  to  the  top  of  the  cathedral,  four  hundred 
and  sixty-eight  steps,  where  you  can  view  the  spires,  turrets,  and 
exterior  decorations,  in  white  marble. 

The  triumplial  arch  of  Napoleon,  at  the  termination  of  the 
grand  Simplon  road,  is  another  great  ornament  to  Milan.  It 
is  an  immense  work,  and  crowned  with  a  car,  bearing  the  figure 
of  Victory,  drawn  by  six  colossal  horses  in  bronze ;  there  are 
also  four  other  horses,  of  the  same  material,  standing  on  the  four 
corners. 

During  the  time  I  remained  at  Milan  I  made  an  excursion  to 
the  lake  of  Como.  At  the  village  of  Como  I  took  a  small 
steamer,  which  plies  upon  the  lake,  and  had  an  opportunity  of 
seeing  the  beautiful  gardens,  pleasure  grounds,  and  orangeries 
which  line  the  shores.  Nothing  can  be  more  delightful  to  the 
lover  of  fine  scenery  than  an  excursion  upon  this  lake. 

While  in  Rome,  last  spring,  I  saw  an  original  cast  in  plaster, 
ordered  by  Napoleon,  from  the  great  sculptor  Canova.  It  repre- 
sented the  triumph  of  Alexander  the  Great,  and  was  said  to 
have  been  purchased  at  a  sum  equal  to  fourteen  thousand  dol- 
lars, and  was  in  a  village  upon  the  lake  of  Como.  I  landed  at 
the  villa  Souimorira,  and  visited  the  grounds  and  interior  of  this 


78  THE   IRON   CROWN. 

villa,  or  more  properly  speaking,  palace,  where  I  had  an  oppor 
tunity  of  seeing  this  admirable  piece  of  sculpture  in  bas-relief, 
in  white  marble.  It  is  attached  to  the  wall.  I  made  another 
excursion  to  Monza,  about  twelve  miles  from  Milan,  which  con- 
tains a  royal  residence,  well  worth  visiting;  also  a  cathedral, 
where  is  deposited  the  crown  of  the  Lombard  kings,  called  the 
*'  Iron  Crown,"  because  it  is  lined  with  an  iron  hoop,  but  of  small 
size,  and,  as  the  story  goes,  is  composed  of  the  nails  with  which 
our  Saviour  was  fastened  to  the  cross.  The  outside  of  the  crown 
of  gold  is  studded  with  precious  stones.  Charlemagne  was 
crowned  king  of  Lombardy  with  it  in  the  cathedral  where  it  is 
deposited.  The  sacristy  also  abounds  with  ornaments  of  gold, 
silver,  diamonds,  and  other  precious  stones,  belonging  to  the 
church.  There  was  an  unusual  degree  of  form  and  ceremony 
before  we  could  get  to  see  this  celebrated  relic.  After  we  had 
obtained  permission  from  the  highest  functionary,  I  was  not  a 
little  surprised  to  find  that  this  relic  was  placed  in  the  wall 
behind  the  altar,  making  it  necessary  to  ascend  by  ladder  to 
unlock  the  double  doors,  one  of  which  was  a  part  of  the  front  of 
the  altar;  after  which  many  candles  were  lighted  and  two 
priests  put  on  their  robes  and  made  a  short  service,  when  an 
enormous  cross  of  gold  was  produced,  in  the  centre  of  which  was 
inclosed  in  crystal  the  crown  already  described;  for  all  of 
which  our  party  paid  five  francs.  I  was  rather  credulous  in  the 
belief  of  the  story  that  the  interior  of  the  crown  was  made  from 
the  nails  of  the  cross,  as  I  have  already  seen,  in  different  parts 
of  Europe,  more  relics  of  the  kind  than  were  necessary  for  the 
crucifixion  of  our  Saviour. 

After  I  left  Milan  I  came  to  Verona,  on  the  route  to  Venice, 
where  I  tarried  one  day.  Verona  has  its  objects  of  curiosity,  but 
not  sufficient  to  detain  one  who  has  seen  the  cities  of  southern 
Italy.  The  ancient  amphitheatre  here  is  one  of  the  most 
remarkable ;  it  is  more  perfect  than  any  other  in  Ital3^  It 
accommodated  twenty-three  thousand  four  hundred  and  eighty- 
four  persons  seated,  according  to  report,  and  is  composed  of  large 
blocks  of  marble  without  cement.  It  is  of  an  oval  form,  four 
hundred  and  sixty-seven  feet  long  and  three  hundred  and  sixty- 
seven  feet  wide.  The  arena  is  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet 
in  length,  and  one  hundred  and  thirty-three  feet  wide.  There 
are  fortj^-five  rows  of  seats  encircling  the  arena.     The  exterior 


VEKICE.  79 

wall  is  destroyed,  but  the  other  parts  of  this  immense  work  of 
antiquity  are  quite  perfect.  In  the  suburbs  of  Verona,  iu  a 
building  near  the  former  cemetery  of  a  Franciscan  convent,  is  a 
sarcophagus  called  the  tomb  of  Juliet,  and  made  of  Verona  mar- 
ble, with  a  place  for  her  head,  a  socket  for  a  candle,  and  two 
holes  for  the  admission  of  air.  This  sarcophagus  is  nothing  in 
itself,  but  associated  with  Shakespeare,  and  the  history  of  Romeo 
and  Juliet,  it  is  full  of  interest. 

On  arriving  at  Venice,  I  visited  the  palace  of  the  Doges,  the 
Basilica  of  San  Marco,  the  Bridge  of  Sighs,  the  Giant  Stairs,  the 
Rialto,  and  several  other  parts  of  the  city.  Venice  is  about 
seven  miles  in  circumference,  with  a  population  of  one  hundred 
thousand.  It  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  shallows  called 
Lagunes,  and  stands  mostly  on  piles.  It  is  entered  in  all  direc- 
tions by  canals,  which  amount  to  some  hundreds,  and  bridges  of 
stone  without  number.  The  streets  are  narrow,  frequently  not 
exceeding  six  feet  in  width,  but  having  shops  on  each  side,  and 
then  again  many  passages  not  exceeding  four  feet  wide.  There 
are,  however,  many  squares,  but  they  are  not  generally  large. 
The  Place  of  St.  Mark,  upon  which  is  situated  many  of  the  prin- 
cipal buildings,  is  magnificent,  and  presents  a  lively  scene.  The 
only  conveyance  is  in  gondolas,  which  traverse  all  parts  of  the 
city,  and  are  a  necessary  appendage  to  every  family.  One  is 
induced  to  pronounce  it  a  singular  and  beautiful  city,  because  no 
other  is  like  it. 

It  is  surprising  that  the  city  should  be  supplied  with  all  the 
necessaries,  comforts,  and  luxuries  of  life  without  any  apparent 
difficulty.  Here  are  to  be  found  thousands  of  persons  who 
never  saw  the  bubbling  of  a  fountain  or  the  growth  of  the  vege- 
tables upon  which  they  subsist,  who  know  not  the  use  of  a  horse, 
and  never  saw  such  an  animal,  who  perhaps  have  never  seen  a 
tree. 

On  approaching  Venice  in  a  gondola  it  has  the  appearance  of 
a  city  submerged,  while  the  steeples  in  the  distance  resemble  the 
masts  of  vessels.  The  silence  is  profound,  and  at  first  it  appears 
dull.  The  canals  in  general  being  the  streets,  the  only  noise  to 
disturb  the  tranquillity  is  that  made  by  the  oars  and  the  cries  of 
the  gondoliers.  On  leaving  Venice  I  took  the  steamer  for 
Trieste,  the  passage  being  accomplished  across  the  head  of  the 
A-driatic  in  from  ten  to  twelve  hours  ordinarily.     As  I  depart 


80  AXCONA  AND   CORFU. 

to-morrow  for  Greece  you  may  not  expect  to  hear  from  me 
again  until  after  my  arrival  at  Patras,  or  the  Ionian  Islands. 


XXIV. 

Athens,  Greece,  Nov.  28,  1841. 

When  I  wrote  you  last,  from  Trieste,  I  was  on  the  point  of 
embarking  by  one  of  the  Austrian  steamers  for  this  city,  with 
the  additional  advantage  of  stopping  at  three  ports  on  the  route, 
which  gives  the  passenger  an  opportunity  of  seeing  some  inte- 
resting sights.  Soon  after  leaving  Trieste  we  were  visited  with 
one  of  those  violent  gales  of  wind  which  so  frequently  occur  on 
the  Adriatic,  against  which  the  steamer  struggled  with  difficulty, 
and  all  the  passengers,  except  one,  experiencing  the  horrors  of 
sea-sickness,  were  snugly  stowed  away  in  their  berths.  This 
man  solitary  and  alone,  I  noticed  in  his  enviable  position, 
seated  at  the  supper  table,  whilst  the  sea  was  making  a  complete 
breach  over  the  deck  of  the  steamer,  and  the  chairs  and  plates 
were  secured  by  straps  and  braces.  Within  twenty-four  hours 
we  made  the  harbor  of  Ancona.  the  principal  commercial  port 
of  the  Pope  of  Eome,  whose  dominions  extend  from  the  Medi- 
terranean on  the  west  to  the  Adriatic  on  the  east,  and  where  w^e 
remained  nearly  a  day,  giving  us  an  opportunity  of  seeing  all 
that  was  most  remarkable  in  the  town.  We  next  departed  for 
Corfu,  one  of  the  most  important  of  the  Ionian  islands,  and  the 
seat  of  government,  and  where  we  arrived  after  two  days.  The 
approach  to  the  island  is  beautiful,  with  a  fine  harbor  or  bay  for 
vessels.  The  opposite  coast  of  Albania,  the  fortifications  of  the 
island  of  Vido,  and  the  citadel  of  Corfu,  built  on  two  precipitous 
rocks  running  out  into  the  sea,  with  the  town  and  the  mountains 
in  the  distance,  form  a  splendid  panoramic  view. 

The  island  is  in  the  possession  of  the  British,  who  have  many 
troops  stationed  here.  Its  circumference  is  said  to  be  one  hun- 
dred and  twelve  miles,  and  the  population  sixty  thousand,  that  of 
the  city  being  twenty  thousand.  We  have  found  the  weather 
delightfully  warm  and  pleasant,  and  observed  many  plants  and 
fruits  peculiar  to  the  West  India  climate.  On  landing  I  was 
struck  with  the  gay  and  picturesque  costume  of  the  male 
population,  who  nustly  wear  the  Albanian  dress,  which  is  the 


PATRAS.  81 

gayest,  and  in  some  cases  the  most  fantastic,  of  any  I  have  seen 
in  Europe.  It  consists  of  a  red  cap  of  beautiful  material,  of 
the  form  of  a  hat  without  the  rim,  with  a  large  tassel  of  blue 
silk  suspended  from  the  top ;  a  round  jacket  and  vest,  of  cloth 
of  various  colors,  beautifully  embroidered  with  cord,  and  some- 
times with  gold  and  silver  lace,  which  fits  to  the  figure ;  from 
the  waist  is  suspended  a  white  frock  with  heavy  folds  which 
hang  gracefully,  barely  covering  the  knees,  with  leggings  of 
the  same  colored  cloth  as  the  jacket,  embroidered  in  the  same 
manner,  and  covering  the  shoes.  The  waist  is  encircled  with  a 
sash  of  red  or  blue  silk,  the  ends  hanging  negligently  by  the 
side.  AVe  remained  at  Corfu  only  one  day,  but  long  enough  to 
give  us  time  to  visit  the  dlla  of  the  governor,  beautifully  situ- 
ated on  a  cliff  overhanging  the  sea ;  also  to  visit  the  esplanade 
or  parade  ground,  and  some  of  the  Greek  churches,  in  one  of 
which  rest  the  remains  of  Capo  d'Istria,  the  late  governor  of 
Greece,  who  was  assassinated  in  Nauplia. 

After  leaving  Corfu  we  proceeded  to  Patras,  in  Greece,  pass- 
ing the  island  of  Santa  Maura,  where  Sappho  made  her  famous 
leap,  and  next  the  island  of  Ithaca,  the  birthplace  of  Ulysses, 
which  is  only  eighteen  miles  long,  and  presents  an  air  of 
ruggedness  and  barrenness,  but  is  said  to  produce  fruit,  wine, 
and  honey,  of  good  quality.  On  arriving  at  Patras,  where 
we  remained  part  of  a  day,  we  found  it  had  the  appearance 
of  a  new  town,  and  to  my  surprise  I  learned  that  during  the 
last  revolution  every  house  was  demolished  by  the  Turks,  as 
well  as  the  orange  groves,  the  woods  of  olives  and  vineyards ;  in 
fact  everything  was  laid  waste  by  fire  and  sword.  There  are 
not  many  remains  of  antiquity  here.  The  new  streets  are  well 
laid  out,  but  the  houses  are  mostly  one  story  high,  the  country 
being  subject  to  earthquakes. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  gulf  lies  Missolonghi,  celebrated 
for  its  battles  with  the  Turks,  as  also  for  being  the  spot  where 
Marco  Bozzaris  fell  during  an  engagement  in  1823.  It  was  also 
the  place  where  Lord  Byron  ended  his  career. 

On  leaving  Patras  we  coasted  along  with  the  islands  of 
Cephalonia  and  Zante  in  view,  afterwards  passing  Navarino,  so 
memorable  for  the  battle  of  the  allied  forces  against  the  Turks 
in  1827,  which  in  its  effects  ended  the  war  in  Greece.  After 
passing   Cape   Matapan,    the   most   southern   point  of  Greece, 

6 


82  ATHENS. 

nothing  occurred  of  interest  until  we  arrived  at  the  Piraeus  the 
morning  of  the  eighth  day  from  Trieste. 

In  order  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  variety  of  character  one 
meets  on  a  voyage  in  this  part  of  the  world,  I  will  mention 
that  we  had  in  the  main  saloon  of  the  steamer  sixteen  persons, 
and  that  the  ordinary  conversation  at  table  was  in  six  different 
languages.  Among  the  number  a  Turk  from  Smyrna,  who  had 
been  interpreter  to  the  English  embassy  in  the  East,  conversed 
in  eight  languages.  He  was  dressed  in  full  costume,  and  wore 
his  turban  at  meals  and  on  all  occasions.  His  long  rich  robes  of 
satin,  and  yellow  morocco  slippers,  presented  a  novel  appear- 
ance, his  favorite  position  being  a  seated  one  with  his  legs  crossed. 
On  entering  the  harbor  of  the  Pirseus  the  remains  of  the 
tomb  of  Themistocles  were  pointed  out,  looking  down  on  the 
Gulf  of  Salamis,  the  scene  of  his  glory.  The  modern  town  has 
been  entirely  built  up  since  183-i.  The  distance  to  Athens  is 
five  or  six  miles.  We  took  a  carriage,  and  in  approaching  that 
celebrated  city  the  ruins  of  the  Parthenon  struck  our  view,  rising 
in  all  its  majesty,  one  of  the  finest  edifices  formerly,  and  on  one 
of  the  finest  sites  in  the  world. 

During  the  last  revolution  Athens  was  entirely  destroyed  by 
the  Turks,  but  it  has  again  risen,  and  now  has  the  appearance  of 
a  new  city,  with  a  population  of  twenty  thousand.  Since  it 
became  the  seat  of  government,  and  king  Otho  made  his  public 
entry  in  1834,  it  is  said  to  have  advanced  rapidly.  Although 
many  houses  are  of  very  rude  construction,  and  in  some  sections 
of  one  story  high,  with  tile  roofs,  still  in  general  the  style  of 
building  is  very  good  and  substantial,  and  I  am  only  surprised 
that  in  such  a  short  space  of  time  they  could  have  advanced  so 
far.  Many  of  the  public  buildings  are  well  constructed.  The 
palace  of  the  king,  now  in  progress  of  erection,  is  of  white  Pen- 
telic  marble,  three  hundred  feet  long  and  two  hundred  and 
eighty  feet  in  depth.  It  will  cost  an  immense  sum  of  money, 
which  might  have  been  better  employed  in  other  improvements 
than  in  building  a  palace,  while  the  new  government  is  in  its 
infancy. 

As  soon  as  I  had  located  myself  at  a  hotel,  I  procured  a  guide 
to  obtain  a  permission  to  mount  the  Acropolis  and  visit  all  the 
antiquities  of  the  city.  It  is  necessary  to  apply  to  one  of  the 
officers  of  the  cit}^  for  this,  and  to  pay  a  small  sum,  to  ascend 


THE   ACROPOLIS.  83 

tliis  celebrated  Cecropian  Rock,  which  has  been  a  fortress  from 
the  earliest  ages  down  to  the  last  day  of  the  war.  The  walls 
form  a  circuit  of  two  thousand  five  hundred  and  thirty  yards,  and 
are  built  on  the  edge  of  the  perpendicular  rock,  which  rises  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  plain  in  which  stands  the  city. 
The  area  inclosed  is  about  fifteen  hundred  feet  long,  and  the 
greatest  breadth  five  hundred  feet.  On  entering  the  only  gate, 
after  winding  round  the  hill,  the  first  subject  is  the  ruins  of  the 
Propylnea,  which  was  built  during  the  most  brilliant  da3^s  of 
Athens.  There  is  little  remaining  except  six  fluted  marble 
columns  in  front,  and  six  in  the  rear,  of  the  Doric  order,  with 
frieze,  entablature,  &c. ;  to  the  right  is  a  high  tower,  rudely  con- 
structed. The  Temple  of  Victory  is  the  next  ruin  presented  to 
view,  with  some  fine  Ionic  fluted  columns  still  standing,  and 
quite  perfect.  Next  comes  the  Parthenon,  which  stands  in  the 
centre  of  the  Acropolis.  When  perfect  the  length  was  two 
hundred  and  twenty  feet,  the  breadth  one  hundred.  The  front 
and  rear  are  still  standing,  and  many  of  the  columns  on  the 
sides  (in  all  thirty -two)  still  remain.  The  columns  are  sixty-four 
feet  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  thirty-four  feet  high,  standing  on  a 
pavement  to  which  there  was  an  ascent  of  three  steps.  The 
height  of  the  temple  was  sixty-five  feet ;  parts  of  the  frieze  on 
the  exterior  still  remain ;  they  represent  the  procession  to  the 
Parthenon  at  one  of  the  grand  festivals.  The  Parthenon  was 
constructed  of  white  Pentelic  marble.  Within  the  Acropolis  is 
an  immense  collection  of  ruins  and  antiquities  too  numerous  to 
detail.  The  Temple  of  Theseus,  not  far  distant  from  the  Acro- 
polis, is  quite  perfect,  and  the  interior  is  occupied  as  a  museum 
— all  the  fragments  of  marble  which  have  been  discovered  by 
the  government  being  placed  there.  It  was  built  four  hundred 
and  sixty-five  years  before  Christ.  Thirty-four  Doric  columns, 
with  the  walls,  remain  entire,  all  of  Pentelic  marble. 

On  ascending  the  Areopagus,  or  Hill  of  Mars,  where  the 
council  of  the  Areopagus  sat,  one  finds  sixteen  steps  cut  in  the 
rock ;  above  the  steps,  on  the  level  of  the  hill,  is  a  bench  of 
stone  excavated  in  the  rock.  It  was  here  that  the  judges  sat, 
in  the  open  air  and  in  the  dark,  that  they  might  not  be  influenced 
by  seeing  and  knowing  the  accuser  or  the  accused.  It  was 
here  that  St.  Paul  preached,  that  Orestes  was  tried  for  matricide, 
and  Socrates  for  theism.     The  prisons  of  Socrates  are  four  dun- 


84  KING  OTHO. 

geons,  cut  in  the  rock  at  the  base  of  a  hill,  and  there  he  drank 
the  poisoned  cup.  The  temple  of  Jupiter  Olympus  was  the 
largest  in  Athens.  It  was  begun  five  hundred  and  thirty  years 
before  Christ,  and  completed  by  the  emperor  Hadrian,  a.d.  one 
hundred  and  forty-five.  The  only  remains  of  that  immense 
edifice  are  sixteen  Corinthian  columns,  six  and  a  half  feet  dia- 
meter and  sixty  feet  high.  It  is  supposed  the  entire  circuit  was 
two  thousand  three  hundred  feet ;  the  length  being  three  hun- 
dred and  fifty-four  feet,  and  breadth  one  hundred  and  seventy- 
one  ;  the  whole  number  of  columns  was  one  hundred  and  twenty. 

Since  I  have  been  in  Athens  I  have  made  acquaintance  with 
Mr.  Perdicaris,  the  American  consul,  Mr.  King  and  Mr,  Benja- 
min, the  American  missionaries  stationed  here,  as  also  Mrs.  Hill, 
whose  husband  is  now  absent  in  America.  The  judgment, 
talent,  and  perseverance  of  this  lady  and  her  husband  have  con- 
tributed much  to  the  advancement  of  the  children  of  Athens. 
Tlie  gentlemen  named  have  been  very  polite  and  communicative, 
and  from  them  I  have  derived  much  valuable  information  in 
reference  to  Greece.  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  young 
king  Otho  and  his  queen  at  a  concert  soon  after  my  arrival. 
He  was  clad  in  rich  Albanian  costume,  such  as  I  have  described 
as  being  worn  at  Corfu,  and  which  is  in  general  use  here  also.  I 
judge  he  is  about  twenty-five  years  of  age.  The  queen  is 
young  and  beautiful ;  she  was  handsomely  clad  in  Frank  cos- 
tume. 

After  having  finished  the  sights  at  Athens  I  shall  make  a 
tour  in  the  interior,  in  company  with  one  of  the  American  mis- 
sionaries fi'om  the  southern  parts  of  Greece,  who  desires  to  visit 
Nauplia,  Argos,  ancient  Tergus,  Mycenae,  &c. ;  but  in  addition  I 
desire  to  see  Corinth,  where  St.  Paul  lived  one  year  and  a  half, 
and  wrote  his  Epistle  to  the  Corinthians.  The  weather  being 
delightfully  warm,  and  my  companion  speaking  modern  Greek 
perfectly,  I  anticipate  great  pleasure  in  making  an  excursion  of 
six  or  eight  days. 


EN  ROUTE  IN   GREECE.  85 


XXV. 

Athens,  December  1,  1841. 

I  HAVE  just  returned  from  my  tour,  after  an  absence  of  seven 
days,  during  wliicli  time  we  were  favored  with  delightful  weather, 
but  our  journey  was  attended  with  all  the  fatigue  and  want  of 
comfort  appertaining  to  travelling  on  horseback  in  the  interior 
of  Greece.  But  we  were  more  than  fully  compensated  with  the 
incidents  of  travel  and  the  remarkable  objects  of  antiquity  and 
curiosity  presented  to  our  view.  I  must  first  inform  you 
that  there  are  only  six  or  eight  carriage  roads  in  Greece,  and 
those  only  for  a  short  distance.  All  travel  is  performed  on 
mules  or  horses,  and  all  manner  of  burdens  carried  in  the  same 
manner.  In  the  interior  hotels  are  almost  unknown,  there  being 
but  few  guests  to  encourage  them,  as  during  the  desolating  wars 
with  the  Turks  almost  all  the  towns  and  cities  were  laid  waste, 
and  the  Greeks  sought  refuge  in  the  mountains. 

The  first  object  of  my  missionary  companion  and  myself  was 
to  procure  a  Greek  servant,  a  supply  of  provisions,  with  bed 
and  bedding,  when  we  started  for  the  Piraeus,  a  distance  of  five 
miles,  in  search  of  a  boat  to  carry  us  to  Epidaurus,  upon  the 
Gulf  of  Salamis,  where  our  land  travel  commenced.  On 
arriving,  at  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  were  fortunate  in 
finding  a  caique  ready  for  departure.  There  is  an  immense 
number  of  these  vessels  employed  along  the  coast ;  they  are  from 
twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  length,  the  only  shelter  being  in  the 
hold,  the  flooring  of  which  is  pebble-stones.  The  passengers 
numbered  about  twenty,  who  were  stretched  upon  the  deck,  or 
on  the  gravelly  floor,  with  nothing  but  a  Greek  coat,  or  a  blanket 
under  them,  my  companion  among  the  group.  By  special  favor 
I  had  the  cabin  to  myself,  for  the  reason  that  there  was  only 
room  for  one  person.  It  was  a  small  partition  astern,  with  a 
board  floor,  say  three  feet  broad,  and  scarcely  long  enough  to 
lie  at  full  length.  Here  I  spread  my  bed  and  passed  a  tolerable 
night.  The  next  morning  we  passed  the  island  of  Egina,  and 
at  noon  arrived  at  Epidaurus,  a  place  which  formerly  sent  eight 
hundred  fighting  men  to  battle,  now  a  miserable  village  of 
eighty  inhabitants.  But  the  town  has  recently  acquired  a  cele- 
brity f.'om  having  given  its   name   to   the   Greek  constitution, 


86  NAUPLIA. 

adopted  bj  the  Greek  Congress  of  Deputies  from  all  parts  of  the 
nation,  on  the  15th  of  January,  1832. 

We  procured  horses  and  a  guide  for  Nauplia,  making  a  detour 
of  two  hours  to  visit  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  city  of  Yero.  Part 
of  the  road  was  through  a  fertile  plain,  producing  tobacco  and 
corn  ;  then  passing  through  a  romantic  defile  by  the  side  of  a 
rocky  hill,  with  a  mountain  torrent  tumbling  beneath.  The 
I^ath  in  some  places  is  a  mere  shelf,  only  broad  enough  for  one 
to  pass,  with  a  steep  precipice  above  and  below ;  while  in  others 
it  winds  through  beautiful  shrubbery  where  the  myrtle  and 
arbutus  joined  over  our  heads  in  festoons,  and  scarcely  permitted 
the  horse  and  rider  to  pass.  The  most  remarkable  remains  of 
antiquity  in  this  sequestered  region  are  the  ruins  of  a  theatre. 
It  was  of  white  marble,  and  thirty -two  rows  of  seats  still  appear 
above  ground.  The  orchestra  was  ninety  feet  long,  and  the 
theatre,  when  entire,  three  hundred  and  seventy  feet  in  diameter, 
and  capable  of  containing  twelve  thousand  spectators.  There 
are  also  remains  of  several  temples. 

Night  overtook  us  at  Lygouno,  where  we  found  a  Khan  to 
spread  our  beds,  and  fire  to  cook  our  provisions.  The  next 
morning  we  made  Nauplia,  a  distance  of  five  hours  (which  is  the 
only  mode  of  reckoning  in  Greece,  not  being  able  to  calculate  by 
miles,  as  the  roads  are  mostly  paths  winding  in  different  direc- 
tions). The  city,  with  a  population  of  nine  thousand,  was  once 
the  seat  of  government,  and  is  a  commercial  place,  with  a  magnifi- 
cent harbor.  It  is  strongly  fortified.  The  fortress  of  the  Pala- 
medi,  on  the  summit  of  a  lofty  and  precipitous  rock,  seven  hundred 
and  twenty  feet  above  the  sea,  is  almost  inaccessible,  and  has  been 
called  the  Gibraltar  of  Greece.  The  view  of  the  country  and  the 
Gulf  of  Nauplia  from  the  summit  is  beautiful.  I  noticed  many 
brass  cannons  of  1650,  1662,  with  the  Venetian  stamp,  the  lion 
of  St.  Mark.  There  are  cisterns  hewn  in  the  top  of  the  rock, 
large  enough  to  hold  rain  water  to  supply  the  garrison  three 
years.  In  visiting  one  of  the  Greek  churches  here,  we  were 
shown  the  spot  where  Capo  d'lstria,  the  governor  of  Greece,  was 
assassinated  when  leaving  the  church.  We  remained  here  one 
day,  and  proceeded  for  Argos,  seven  miles  from  Nauplia,  an 
ancient  city,  which  contains  some  antiquities  —a  ruined  Acropolis 
upon  the  summit  of  a  rocky  hill.  In  1825  the  modern  town  was 
entirely  destroyed  by  the   Turks,   but  is  partly   rebuilt.     The 


ARGOS.  87 

plains  are  productive  with  good  cultivation,  but  tlie  manner  of 
cultivation  in  this  country  is  quite  primitive. 

On  our  way  to  Argos  we  turned  aside  to  visit  the  ancient  city 
of  Tiryns,  built  thirteen  hundred  and  seventy-nine  years  before 
Christ.  The  Cyclopean  walls  of  the  fortress,  which  was  one- 
third  of  a  mile  in  circumference,  are  immense,  and  in  remarkable 
preservation;  some  are  twenty-five  feet  thick.  The  city  was 
destroyed  four  hundred  and  sixty-six  years  before  Christ,  and  it 
is  most  remarkable  that  some  of  the  galleries,  in  the  form  of  a 
Gothic  arch,  still  exist,  almost  perfect.  It  was  the  birthplace  and 
frequently  the  residence  of  Hercules.  The  Lernean  lake,  not 
far  distant,  is  the  spot  celebrated  for  being  the  place  where  Her- 
cules destroyed  the  Lernean  hydra. 

At  Argos,  there  were  no  accommodations  to  be  had,  and  we 
were  thrown  upon  the  hospitality  of  an  English  gentleman,  a 
friend  of  my  compagnon  de  voyage.  We  were  informed  here 
that  it  would  not  be  safe  to  travel  without  a  guard  across  the 
country,  as  two  travellers  had  recently  been  robbed.  We  accord- 
ingly applied  to  the  authorities,  and  procured  a  mounted  horse- 
man, armed  to  the  teeth  with  musket,  sword,  and  pistols. 
Altogether,  our  party  presented  a  novel  appearance.  Our  guard 
in  full  regimentals,  our  guide  in  Greek  costume,  running  oi 
walking  beside  the  horses,  making  a  distance  of  thirty  or  forty 
miles  a  day  without  fatigue,  but  singing  gaily  even  till  night 
approached ;  our  servant,  with  the  Hydriote  costume,  which 
differs  from  the  Albanian — the  pantaloons  being  not  unlike  a 
great  sack  secured  to  the  waist,  and  below  the  knees  of  a  blue 
color — with  his  red  sash  and  cap,  mounted  on  a  pack-horse 
carrying  supplies  and  bedding,  with  our  horses  in  advance ; 
altogether  we  formed  a  novel  and  formidable  appearance.  There 
is  a  law  in  Greece  prohibiting  the  carrying  of  fire-arms  without 
license.  We  met  several  suspicious  characters  with  pistols  and 
muskets,  in  the  mountain  passes,  who  were  interrogated  by  our 
guide,  and  compelled  to  produce  their  permits ;  but  it  is  not 
difficult  to  obtain  a  permit,  under  pretence  of  protecting  the 
flocks  of  sheep  and  goats.  On  the  route  to  Corinth,  we. passed 
through  a  wild  and  mountainous  country,  sometimes  winding 
along  a  narrow  path  on  the  brink  of  a  precipice,  and  then  again 
following  the  course  of  a  ravine.  We  visited  the  ancient  city 
of  Mycense,  built  by  Perseus  one  thousand  three  hundred  years 


88  MYCEK^. 

before  Christ.  It  was  built  ou  a  rugged  height,  isituated  in  a 
recess  between  two  commanding  mountains,  of  the  range  which 
bounds  the  Argolic  plain.  The  entire  circuit  of  the  citadel  still 
exists,  and  is  very  large.  The  gate  of  the  lions  is  quite  perfect ; 
upon  it  are  represented  two  lions,  standing  upon  their  hind  legs, 
on  either  side  of  a  pillar,  or  altar,  on  which  they  rest  their  fore 
paws.  The  tomb  of  Agamemnon  is  still  perfect,  as  it  was,  per- 
haps, when  the  city  was  destroyed,  four  hundred  and  sixty-six 
years  before  Christ.  The  entrance  is  twenty  feet  broad  ;  the 
diameter  of  the  dome  is  forty-seven  feet,  and  the  height  fifty 
feet.  In  the  middle  of  the  great  doorway  the  holes  for  the 
bolts  and  hinges  of  the  door  are  observed.  We  visited,  also, 
the  ancient  city  of  ISTemsea,  which  has  only  three  columns  stand- 
ing of  the  temple  of  Jupiter,  some  remains  of  the  Nemoean 
theatre,  and  in  the  vicinity,  several  caves,  supposed  to  be  those 
of  the  Nemoean  lion.  It  was  situated  on  a  beautiful  plain  ;  and 
where  once  existed  a  large  population,  now  nothing  is  heard 
but  the  cr}^  of  the  shepherd,  or  the  barking  of  his  dog. 

In  some  sections  of  the  country,  we  would  travel  many  miles 
witliout  discovering  a  habitation  of  any  kind,  occasional!}^  meet- 
ing a  solitary  Greek,  with  his  heavily  laden  mule  or  donkey, 
going  to  market ;  or,  perhaps,  upon  the  mountain's  ridge,  would 
find  a  regular  encampment  of  itinerant  shepherds,  with  their 
flocks  of  goats  and  sheep.  It  was  an  amusing  and  novel  sight, 
to  see  these  people  emigrating  to  another  section  of  the  country, 
or  taking  up  their  winter  quarters  in  the  valleys.  I  observed 
several  of  these  parties,  composed  of  three  or  four  families 
together.  They  not  only  have  considerable  flocks,  but  raise 
horses  for  sale.  On  making  a  move,  their  tents  are  lashed  on 
pack-saddles,  with  all  their  supplies  of  clothing,  cooking  uten- 
sils, &c.  The  small  children  are  lashed  upon  the  backs  of  the 
horses  in  the  same  manner,  while  the  girls  and  boys,  in  their 
picturesque  costumes,  are  leading  and  driving  the  horses  and 
colts,  sometimes  to  the  number  of  seventy  or  eighty.  The  men 
are  employed  in  driving  the  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats,  while  the 
women  are  driving  the  horses  which  carry  different  kinds  of 
poultry  on  their  backs,  and,  at  the  same  time,  are  engaged  in 
spinning  cotton  with  a  portable  distaff,  which  they  carry  in  one 
hand,  and  twist  the  thread  upon  a  spool  with  the  other,  with 
great  dexterity. 


CORINTH,  89 

On  arriving  at  Corinth,  situated  on  the  gulf  of  Lepanto,  we 
visited  the  remaining  antiquities  of  that  city,  which  once  ranked 
first  among  the  states  of  Greece.  During  the  last  revolution  it 
was  reduced  to  ashes.  It  is  now  being  rebuilt,  but  in  a  very 
different  manner.  Seven  Doric  columns  of  a  temple  still  exist, 
amidst  modern  desolation.  There  are  also  the  remains  of  an 
amphitheatre,  and  excavated  in  the  rock,  at  one  end,  is  seen  a  sub- 
terranean entrance  for  the  wild  beasts  and  gladiators.  In  this 
city  St.  Paul  resided  and  wrote  his  Epistles  to  the  Corinthians. 
Back  of  the  city  rises  a  mountain,  upon  the  summit  of  which, 
one  thousand  eight  hundred  feet  high,  stands  an  immense  for- 
tress, considered  the  strongest  in  Greece,  next  to  Nauplia.  A 
steep  ascent,  winding  through  rocks,  leads  up  to  the  gate,  which 
requires  an  hour's  walk,  and  where  one  of  the  most  magnificent 
views  imaginable  is  to  be  seen,  comprising  six  of  the  most  cele- 
brated states  of  ancient  Greece. 

On  leaving  Corinth,  we  crossed  the  Isthmus  and  struck  Cen- 
chrea,  mentioned  in  the  Acts  of  the  Apostles  as  the  spot  whence 
St.  Paul  departed  for  Syria.  We  arrived  at  Megara  the  same 
night,  and  our  guide  conducted  us  to  the  only  house  of  enter- 
tainment in  the  town,  which  contains  a  population  of  one  thou- 
sand persons.  But  this  modern  village  is  in  a  ruinous  state. 
We  found  the  landlord  had  only  one  room,  and  that  was  occu- 
pied. Accordingly,  our  gend'arme  conducted  us  to  the  house 
of  the  Demarch,  or  mayor  of  the  town,  where  we  had  an  oppor- 
tunity of  partaking  of  Greek  hospitalities,  which  is  not  unusual 
for  strangers  to  accept  in  the  interior.  Suffice  it  to  say,  we 
were  made  very  comfortable,  and  felt  ourselves  under  many 
obligations  for  comforts  that  money  could  not  procure. 

Soon  after  leaving  Megara  we  dispensed  with  the  services  of 
our  gend'arme,  as  we  struck  upon  the  road  to  Eleusis,  which  is 
considerably  frequented.  In  passing  along  the  coast  of  the 
Saronic  Gulf  we  had  the  island  of  Salamis  in  full  view,  half  a 
mile  distant,  where  three  hundred  and  eighty  Greek  ships 
defeated  two  thousand  ships  of  Xerxes.  At  Eleusis  are  many 
antiquities  about  the  modern  town,  and  the  piece  of  ground  is 
here  pointed  out  where,  according  to  tradition,  the  first  corn  was 
sown. 

On  the  way  to  Athens  may  be  seen  the  old  causeway,  called 
Via  Sacra,  along  which  the  ancient  processions  moved  to  that 


90  SMYRNA. 

city.  During  our  last  day's  march  we  found  the  sun's  rays 
rather  oppressive,  and  I  was  rejoiced  when  we  entered  the  olive 
groves  of  the  academy,  which  afforded  a  fine  shade  in  our 
approach  to  Athens. 


XXVI. 

Constantinople,  Dec.  22,  1841. 

I  TOOK  the  steamer  for  this  city,  stopping  at  the  island  of 
Syra,  which  is  the  concentrating  point  for  passengers  changing 
steamers  for  Egypt,  Constantinople,  Malta,  &c.  The  town  is 
built  upon  the  summit  of  a  lofty  hill,  so  remarkable  for  its  coni- 
cal form  that  it  may  be  compared  to  a  vast  sugar-loaf  covered 
with  houses.  In  the  distance  it  looks  well  enough,  but  in  the 
interior  everything  is  dirty  and  filthy. 

From  Syra  we  came  to  Smyrna,  which  is  prettily  situated 
upon  the  Asiatic  shore,  and  on  entering  the  city  were  struck 
with  the  Oriental  costume  of  Turks,  Armenians,  Jews,  and 
Greeks ;  the  women,  with  their  faces  covered  with  a  sort  of 
white  veil,  disclosing  only  their  sparkling  black  eyes,  appeared 
singular  enough.  The  streets  are  ranges  of  houses  constructed 
of  wood,  mostly  one  story  high,  and  without  chimneys.  The 
population  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand.  The 
bazaars  are  crowded  with  buyers  and  sellers,  while  trains  of 
camels  with  loads  upon  their  backs  are  passing  through  the  nar- 
row streets,  scarcely  admitting  the  foot  passenger  to  pass. 

On  the  14th  I  left  Smyrna  for  this  city,  making  the  passage 
in  less  than  two  days,  passing  the  ruins  of  ancient  Troy  by  day- 
light, the  island  of  Tenedos,  stopping  at  Chesme,  where  the 
Turkish  fleet  was  burned  in  the  harbor.  On  entering  the  Dar- 
danelles we  had  a  magnificent  view  of  the  old  forts  and  villages 
scattered  along  the  coast.  I  should  think  the  width  of  the  Hel- 
lespont about  equal  to  the  Hudson  river  at  Poughkeepsie.  Our 
steamer  received  and  discharged  some  Turkish  passengers  at 
Grallipoli,  a  city  of  considerable  importance,  just  before  we  left  the 
Sea  of  Marmora,  which  was  the  last  point  touched  until  our 
arrival  at  Constantinople.  We  arrived  about  mid-day,  having 
an  opportunity  of  seeing,  under  favorable  circumstances,  the 
most  beautiful  port  in  the  world.     Nothing  can  exceed  the  mag- 


CONSTANTINOPLE.  91 

nificent  view  that  is  before  you  on  entering  the  Golden  Horn, 
the  eye  resting  upon  scener}^  one  half  in  Europe  and  the  other 
half  in  Asia,  the  painted  and  gilded  minarets  of  the  mosques, 
the  swelling  cupolas,  and  immense  cypress  trees  towering  above 
the  houses — the  forest  of  masts,  the  thousands  of  caiques  which 
cover  the  waters,  all  combined,  render  it  perhaps  the  most 
remarkable  sight  of  the  kind  in  the  world. 

On  entering  the  city  one  finds  the  scene  much  changed, 
although  there  is  a  vast  deal  of  magnificence  still ;  the  streets 
are  narrow  and  dirty,  thronged  by  immense  crowds  of  people, 
and  it  is  impossible  to  form  an  idea  of  the  extremes  of  grandeur 
and  wretchedness  that  are  exhibited.  Nothing  can  be  more 
striking  than  the  contrast  in  the  character  and  customs  of  the 
Turks  and  the  other  nations  of  Europe,  and  I  hardly  know 
where  to  commence  a  description. 

We  procured  a  dragoman  to  accompany  us,  and  speak  the 
language,  and  started  to  see  the  sights  of  the  city.  After  visiting 
some  of  the  mosques  and  viewing  the  exterior — no  one  except 
"  the  faithful "  being  permitted  to  enter  until  a  firman  is 
obtained  from  the  Sultan — we  strolled  along,  and  I  was  struck 
with  the  sight  of  an  immense  cemetery,  almost  in  the  middle  of 
the  city,  the  tombstones  being  in  the  shape  of  a  turban  on  the 
top,  with  gilded  letters,  and  tastefully  decorated;  the  grounds 
were  filled  with  stately  cypresses,  as  it  is  the  custom  to  plant 
one  of  these  trees  at  the  birth  and  burial  of  each  person.  Singu- 
lar as  it  may  appear,  the  cemetery  is  the  grand  promenade,  and 
here  the  Turk  sips  his  coffee  and  smokes  his  pipe  under  the 
shade  of  trees  when  the  weather  is  warm.  On  passing  you 
observe  the  coffee-houses,  occupied  also  with  groups  squatted 
round  the  room  on  a  counter,  which  is  raised  from  the  floor  and 
carpeted,  and  it  is  amusing  to  see  the  attendants  glide  about 
through  the  long  pipes  and  the  winding  smokes  of  nargilh^s 
supplying  their  customers  with  coffee,  without  deranging  the 
peculiar  apparatuses  for  smoking. 

Tiie  next  day  after  our  arrival  was  Friday,  the  Turkish  Sab- 
bath, and  it  was  announced  that  the  Sultan  would  visit  the 
mosque  near  the  arsenal.  We  were  there  in  good  time,  and  at 
mid-day  precisely  we  heard  the  thundering  of  cannon  from  the  ves- 
sels of  the  port.  Soon  after  we  discovered  approaching  four  gor- 
geous state  barges  about  fifty  feet  in  length,  propelled  by  twenty- 


92  THE    WHIELING   DERVISHES. 

four  oarsmen,  the  canopies  glittering  with  gold.  An  immense 
array  of  ofl&cers  and  military  to  escort  him  were  in  attendance 
from  the  barges  to  the  mosque.  He  walked  on  a  carpet  which 
was  laid  for  the  occasion.  I  observed  many  prisoners  carrying 
baskets  of  gravel,  and  on  inquiry  learned  that  it  was  scattered, 
for  the  Sultan  to  walk  on  after  he  came  from  the  mosque. 

We  next  went  to  the  place  of  worship  of  the  Whirling 
Dervishes.  We  entered  with  slippers,  according  to  their  cus- 
tom, and  found  many  Turks  squatted  on  the  floor,  in  their  usual 
position.  In  the  centre  was  a  ring  about  thirty  feet  in  diameter, 
where  were  thirteen  priests,  dressed  in  cloth  frocks,  with  a  white 
cloth  cap,  almost  of  a  conical  form,  without  rim,  passing  round 
the  circle,  and  going  through  many  strange  evolutions.  At 
length,  to  the  music  of  the  fife  and  drum,  they  commenced 
whirling  slowly,  and  then  more  rapidly,  until  the  motion  was 
like  a  top ;  continuing  this  and  other  strange  exercises  for  about 
an  hour,  finishing  by  a  tremendous  howl,  which  is  intended  to 
make  the  Christians,  or  the  infidels,  as  they  call  them,  tremble. 
The  Turks  consider  all  Christians  as  dogs,  of  which  animals 
they  have  thousands  upon  thousands  in  Constantinople.  They 
subsist  in  the  streets,  without  masters,  and  seem  to  despise 
Christians  and  Turks  alike.  The  people,  however,  are  very 
kind  to  animals,  that  being  a  part  of  their  religion.  Their  lit- 
ters are  never  destroyed,  and  they  are  the  onl}^  scavengers  of 
the  city.  They  feed  upon  the  offal  of  the  butchers'  shops  and 
private  houses,  and  carcases  of  animals.  They  are  never  domes- 
ticated within  private  dwellings.  The  mosques  are  guarded  to 
prevent  their  polluting  them,  as  they  are  very  susceptible  of  the 
plague.  One  not  unfrequently  hears  the  cry  of  "  Giaour  "  from 
the  lips  of  the  Turks,  in  passing,  and  the  growling  and  barking 
of  hundreds  of  dogs  testify  their  hatred. 

It  is  unsafe  for  a  stranger  to  appear  in  the  streets  after  dark, 
and  never  practicable  to  do  so  without  a  lantern.  It  is  a  strange 
sight,  on  a  clear,  starlight  night,  to  see  perhaps  one  hundred 
lanterns  at  once,  flitting  about  the  streets,  which  are  so  narrow 
and  dark  that  all  who  move  about  in  them  are  compelled  to 
carry  lights.  No  strangers  are  permitted  to  reside  in  Constanti- 
nople ;  the  gates  are  closed  at  an  early  hour,  and  all  foreigners 
live  at  Pera,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  harbor. 

On  visiting  the  slave-market,  we  found  perhaps  one  hundred 


TURKISH  BATHS.  93 

and  fifty  slaves,  all  females,  the  largest  proportion  black.  The 
blacks  are  sold  for  servants,  the  whites  for  wives.  The  latter 
are  mostly  Circassians  or  Georgians,  belonging  to  good  families 
in  those  provinces,  who  entrust  their  daughters  to  the  commis- 
sioner, who  is  responsible  for  any  insult  or  affront,  while  the 
female  has  the  right  of  refusal  to  be  sold  to  any  whom  she  may 
dislike.  The  female  blacks  are  bought  to  be  the  slaves  of  the 
mistress,  not  of  the  master.  He  is  bound  to  support  them 
through  life.  The  male  slaves  rise  with  the  condition  of  the 
master. 

The  population  of  Constantinople  is  variously  estimated  from 
five  hundred  thousand  to  seven  hundred  thousand,  with  the 
environs  of  Scutari  on  the  Asiatic  shore,  and  Pera  and  Galata 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Golden  Horn,  which  is  an  arm  of 
the  Bosphorus  running  up  and  forming  the  harbor.  The  city  is 
well  supplied  with  baths  and  fountains,  and  nothing  can  exceed 
the  luxury  of  the  Turkish  bath.  It  is  amusing  for  a  stranger 
merely  to  enter  one  of  these  establishments.  The  rooms,  ol 
which  there  are  a  number,  of  a  circular  form  and  lighted  from 
the  top,  have  different  gradations  of  heat,  the  last  or  warmest  of 
which  is  excessive.  The  first  room  entered,  which  is  about 
sixty  feet  in  diameter,  with  a  dome,  is  supplied  with  galleries, 
upon  which  are  seen,  lying  on  different  couches,  the  bathers 
reposing  after  their  ablutions,  each  with  a  pipe  from  four  to  six 
feet  in  length  in  his  hand,  the  servants  supplying  coffee  and 
other  refreshments. 

Beautiful  fountains  are  found  near  the  mosques,  as  well  as  in 
other  parts  of  the  city.  You  may  see  the  Turks  at  all  hours  of 
the  day,  bathing  their  faces,  hands,  and  feet  at  the  fountains 
attached  to  the  mosques,  ablution  being  compulsory,  under  the 
Mahometan  religion,  before  entering  the  mosques.  We  enter  a 
place  of  worship  with  our  heads  uncovered ;  they  shave  their 
heads,  upon  which  thc}^  wear  a  turban,  at  all  times,  and  enter 
their  mosques  with  their  feet  uncovered.  Some  of  their  foun- 
tains are  of  a  quadrangular  form,  the  roofs  of  which  bend  out 
like  a  pagoda  whose  corners  are  cut  off.  On  all  sides  are  gold 
inscriptions  and  Arabic  characters. 

The  covered  bazaars  have  more  the  appearance  of  a  row  of 
booths,  than  a  street  of  shops.  Here  may  be  found  the  jewel- 
lers, occupjnng  one  quarter,  the  silk   merchants  another ;  one 


94  THE   BOSPHORUS. 

alley  glitters  for  hundreds  of  yards  with  yellow  and  red  morocco 
boots  and  shoes,  which  are  worn  by  Turkish  and  Armenian 
ladies,  all  classes  being  distinguished  by  their  costume.  The 
arrangement  of  the  different  trades,  and  the  exposure  of  their 
gaudy  and  rich  articles,  surprise  even  those  who  are  acquainted 
with  London  and  Paris. 

On  Sunday  last  I  found  the  little  Episcopal  church  which  is 
supported  here,  and  tolerably  well  attended.  The  service  was 
all  in  English,  and  the  scene  and  associations  presented  by  such 
a  worship,  so  far  from  England,  were  of  the  most  pleasant  and 
interesting  character.  Generally  the  Americans  attend  this 
church,  there  being  no  other  Christian  church  here. 

To-morrow  we  make  an  excursion  upon  the  Bosphorus  as  far 
as  the  mouth  of  the  Black  Sea,  and  the  next  day  are  to  visit  the 
seraglio  of  the  Sultan,  the  mosques,  the  tombs  of  the  late  Sultans, 
the  Mint,  and  other  objects  of  interest,  from  which  all  strangers 
are  excluded,  except  by  the  special  firman  of  the  Sultan.  The 
Austrian  admiral,  who  is  now  here,  has  obtained  a  firman,  and 
my  travelling  companion,  a  young  Prussian,  and  myself,  are 
invited  to  join  the  party 


xxvn. 

Smyrna,  December  30,  1841. 
My  last  was  from  Constantinople,  in  which  I  mentioned  my 
intention  of  making  an  excursion  along  the  Bosphorus  to  tbe 
mouth  of  the  Black  Sea.  Having  procured  a  Kislangist,  or 
swallow  boat,  with  twenty-six  oarsmen,  we  started — our  party, 
with  the  dragoman,  consisting  of  four  in  number.  These  boats 
are  built  of  light  beech  wood,  neatly  finished  and  elaborately 
furnished.  They  go  over  the  water  with  amazing  rapidity. 
They  are  so  extremely  light  that  great  caution  is  necessary  in 
getting  into  them,  as  from  their  nature  the}^  are  easily  upset ; 
but  once  in,  all  seated  themselves  in  the  cradle  of  the  caique, 
upon  carpets,  like  the  Turks,  there  being  no  seats.  It  is  difficult 
to  convey  any  idea  of  the  beauties  of  the  scenery  along  the  banks 
of  the  Bosphorus.  The  eye  is  constantly  attracted  by  new  and 
beautiful  objects,  both  on  the  European  and  Asiatic  shores ; 
rapidly  passing   palaces,  summer  villas,  fortifications,  villages. 


giant's   MOL'XTAIlSr.  95 

&c.,  as  the  boat  glides  along  from  bay  to  bay,  of  which  the 
Bosphorus  forms  itself  into  seven.  The  currents  at  the  narrowest 
points  in  some  places  are  extremely  rapid.  At  one  point,  called 
the  Dents  current,  which  is  the  narrowest,  the  boatmen  were 
obliged  to  give  up  the  oars  and  seize  a  rope  which  was  thrown 
them  to  draw  the  boat  up  stream.  It  was  a  beautiful  sight  to 
see  the  fleet  of  vessels  coming  from  the  Black  Sea,  availing 
themselves  of  the  north  wind  and  the  rapid  current,  and  going 
with  great  velocity.  After  visiting  Stenia,  Therapia,  and  other 
places  along  the  coast,  each  being  celebrated  for  some  particular 
event,  we  visited  the  Giant's  Mountain,  the  highest  point  on  the 
Asiatic  side,  which  affords  a  magnificent  view  of  the  windings 
of  the  Bosphorus  and  the  coast  of  the  Black  Sea.  Here  in  this 
great  height  we  found  two  of  the  Dervish  priests,  who  remain 
there  to  guard  the  grave  of  the  giant.  It  is  called  the  Mountain 
and  Grave  of  Joshua  by  the  Turks,  who  say  that  Joshua,  during 
the  battle  of  the  Israelites,  stood  upon  a  mountain  to  pray  that 
the  sun  might  stand  still  and  victory  attend  his  arms.  The 
grave  is  about  twenty  feet  long  and  ■  five  feet  wide,  and  is 
inclosed  with  a  framework  of  stone,  and  planted  with  flowers 
and  bushes.  Here  are  also  pieces  of  cloths  and  votive  offerings 
hung  up  on  the  bushes,  against  fevers  and  other  diseases,  their 
owners  believing  that  if  they  hang  a  remnant  there  the  disease 
will  leave  their  persons.  On  descending  we  visited  the  valley  of 
the  Heavenly  Water,  one  of  the  most  delightful  scenes  in  the 
East. 

But  I  must  try  to  give  an  idea  of  the  Seraglio  of  the  Sultan, 
though  I  cannot  speak  of  the  beauty  of  his  forty  or  fifty  wives, 
who  were  screened  from  the  gaze  of  all  our  party.  This  splendid 
work  is  inclosed  with  walls  for  nearly  three  miles  in  circuit,  the 
longest  side  situated  upon  the  coast  and  harbor.  It  is  filled  up 
with  palaces,  houses,  and  gardens.  Some  of  the  rooms  are  very 
rich  in  gilding  and  ornaments,  but  I  have  seen  other  palaces  in 
Europe  far  surpassing  it  in  splendor.  I  must  except  the  magni- 
tude of  the  inclosure,  and  the  magnificence  of  the  baths  and 
spouting  fountains  of  marble,  which,  according  to  oriental 
custom,  are  placed  over  the  first  floor.  Nothing  can  be  more 
luxurious  for  the  women  of  the  harem  than  those  marble  basins 
and  bath  rooms,  magnificently  furnished,  and  always  of  the 
prop-r  temperature.     The  principal  enti\ance  to  the  Seraglio  is 


96  MOSQUE   OF   ST.   SOPHIA, 

an  immense  guarded  gate,  wLicli  looks  more  like  a  guard-liouse 
than  the  entrance  to  a  palace  of  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
princes  in  the  world.  Fifty  porters,  it  is  said,  keep  this  gate. 
After  entering  the  first  court  may  be  found  the  slaves  of  the 
Bashas,  who  await  their  masters  and  attend  their  horses.  Passing 
through  another  guarded  gate  you  discover  many  eunuchs,  both 
white  and  black,  performing  the  different  services  of  the  palace. 
After  visiting  the  interior  of  the  palace,  the  gardens,  the  stable 
of  Arabian  horses,  the  exhibition  of  ancient  armory,  all  of  which 
is  so  extensive  that  it  is  really  fatiguing,  we  proceeded  to  the 
mosque  of  St.  Sophia,  which  has  undergone  so  many  changes  for 
the  last  fifteen  hundred  years,  and  now  stands  in  such  magnificent 
grandeur.  The  interior  is  extremely  rich  in  marble  and  mosaics. 
Three  of  its  sides  are  surrounded  by  vaulted  colonnades  covered 
with  cupolas.  The  length  of  the  interior  is  one  hundred  and 
forty-three  feet,  the  breadth  two  hundred  and  sixty-nine  feet. 
The  centre  of  the  great  dome  is  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet 
above  ground,  and  is  so  flatly  vaulted  that  its  height  is  only  a 
sixth  of  its  diameter,  which  is  one  hundred  and  fifteen  feet. 
Here  are  eight  porphyry  columns  from  the  Eoman  Temple  of 
the  Sun,  and  four  of  green  granite  from  the  temple  of  Diana  at 
Ephesus.  It  would  occupy  too  much  time  and  space  to  describe 
this  magnificent  structure.  The  floors  are  well  paved  with  large 
flag-stones,  covered  with  matting,  and  then  carpeted,  and  here 
may  be  seen  groups  of  Turks,  both  men  and  women,  the  latter 
veiled  in  long  caftans,  all  squatted  on  the  floor,  with  feet  bare  or 
in  slippers,  paying  their  devotions.  Overhead  are  suspended  in 
every  direction,  immense  rows  of  lamps,  with  ostrich  eggs  and 
artificial  flowers,  which,  when  lighted,  must  produce  a  magical 
effect.  Among  other  objects  of  curiosity  here  is  the  sweating 
column,  visited  by  pilgrims  as  miraculous.  The  dampness  which 
it  emits  is  considered  a  marvellous  cure.  There  are  holes  worn 
into  the  column  by  the  constant  touching  of  fingers.  The  tops 
of  the  minarets  of  some  of  the  mosques  glitter  with  highly  gilded 
crescents,  the  ancient  arms  of  Byzantium ;  the  one  on  the  top  of 
St.  Sophia  is  of  immense  size,  the  gilding  alone  costing  fifty 
thousand  ducats.  It  is  said  to  be  visible  fifty  miles  at  sea, 
glittering  in  the  sunshine. 

Notwithstanding  the  Turks  differ  so  widely  in  their  manners 
and  religion,  still  they  possess  many  good  traits  of  character. 


PIPES  AND   COFFEE.  97 

They  are  more  honest  than  some  other  nations,  and  not  so  much 
addicted  to  lying.  The  Greeks  say  sometimes  that  the  Maho- 
metans dare  not  lie  or  steal,  as  their  religion  forbids  it.  They 
are  exceedingly  devotional,  and  generally  hospitable  to  the 
stranger  in  distress,  which  is  a  part  of  their  duty  as  laid  down 
by  the  false  prophet,  but  they  still  hold  infidels  in  detestation. 
On  visiting  the  house  of  a  Turk  the  other  day  we  found  the  pro- 
prietor, with  his  legs  crossed,  smoking  his  pipe,  seated  upon  a 
sofa  which  extended  round  three  sides  of  the  room ;  the  sofa 
was  about  four  feet  wide,  and  was  raised  a  foot  and  a  half  from 
the  floor,  with  deep  fringe  hanging  down  to  the  floor.  There 
was  not  a  chair  in  the  room.  After  being  introduced  and 
seated,  pipes  were  ordered,  and  as  many  servants  as  there  were 
visitors  appeared,  with  pipes  five  or  six  feet  in  length,  placing 
the  bowl  on  the  floor,  and  with  a  great  deal  of  accuracy  present- 
ing the  mouth-piece  of  amber  to  each  guest  within  an  inch  or 
two  of  the  mouth.  They  then  knelt  down  and  put  a  brass 
plate  under  the  bowl  of  the  pipe ;  after  which  coffee  was  presented 
in  small  cups  with  small  silver  holders,  the  servants  retiring 
to  the  bottom  of  the  room  with  hands  crossed,  each  watchins; 
the  cup  he  has  presented  and  has  to  carry  away. 

At  Scutari,  on  the  Asiatic  side,  we  visited  the  largest  and 
most  beautiful  cemetery  in  the  Ottoman  dominions  The  exten- 
sive groves  of  dark  cypress,  through  which  one  may  ride  for 
miles,  interspersed  with  white  turbaned  stones  of  marble,  are 
remarkable.  As  no  grave  is  opened  a  second  time,  and  as  it  is 
the  custom  to  plant  trees  at  a  birth  or  funeral,  these  graveyards 
have  become  forests,  extending  for  miles  and  miles.  The  aro- 
matic odor  of  the  trees  is  supposed  to  destroy  all  pestilential 
exhalations.  It  is  said  the  Turks  suppose  the  soul  to  be  in  tor- 
ment from  the  time  of  death  until  the  burial  of  the  body,  there- 
fore the  funeral  succeeds  death  as  soon  as  possible.  The  only 
occasion  on  which  a  Turk  is  seen  to  walk  with  a  quick  step  is 
when  conveying  a  body  to  the  cemetery,  as  the  Koran  declares 
that  he  who  carries  a  body  forty  paces-  procures  for  himself  the 
expiation  of  a  great  sin. 


98  ALEXANDRIA. 


184  2. 

XXVIII. 

Alexandria,  Egypt,  January  10,  1842. 

A  FEW  days  since,  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morning,  all  hands 
were  on  deck  looking  anxiously  for  the  land  of  Egypt.  At 
length  we  discovered  in  the  distance  the  minarets  of  the  mos- 
ques, Pompey's  Pillar  and  other  objects,  and  soon  found  our- 
selves in  the  harbor  of  Alexandria.  Our  steamer  was  immedi- 
ately surrounded  by  about  sixty  boats,  filled  with  half  naked 
Arabs  and  Egyptians,  of  all  colors  and  complexions,  whose 
yells  and  cries  for  luggage  would  surpass  those  of  savages. 
Having  heard  that  the  plague  still  existed,  none  were  permitted 
to  board  us,  but  our  fears  in  getting  ashore  were  soon  dispelled 
on  learning  that  few  cases  existed.  After  procuring  camels  to 
carry  our  luggage,  we  were  beset  by  another  swarm  in  the  shape 
of  donkeys  and  drivers,  and  in  self-defence  our  party  all  mounted, 
and  soon  found  ourselves  going  at  a  fearful  gallop  through 
crowded  streets,  amongst  loaded  camels  and  yelping  dogs,  with 
our  half-naked,  sore-eyed  Arabs  chasing  alongside  and  applying 
the  stick  in  a  lively  manner.  The  Egyptian  donkey  is  peculiar  to 
this  country,  and  superior  in  point  of  speed  to  any  I  have  found  in 
Europe.  They  are  the  omnibuses  of  the  city,  and  it  is  surprising 
to  see  how  rapidly  and  easily  they  pass  through  crowded  streets. 

I  must  first  give  you  a  better  idea  of  Alexandria  as  it  now  is 
under  Mehemet  Ali,  and  not  as  it  once  was  under  Alexander 
the  Great,  when  it  only  yielded  to  imperial  Rome  in  wealth  and 
magnificence.  Formerly  it  was  fifteen  miles  in  circumference, 
with  a  population  of  three  hundred  thousand  citizens  and  as 
many  slaves,  with  four  thousand  palaces,  four  thousand  baths, 
and  four  hundred  theatres  and  public  edifices.  In  different  direc- 
tions may  be  seen  the  ruins  of  ancient  days.  The  Frank  quar- 
ter of  Alexandria  reminded  me  more  of  a  new  American  city  than 
anything  that  I  have  seen  since  I  left  Trieste.     The  Pasha  is  doing 


POMPEY  S   PILLAK.  yy 

everything  in  his  power  to  resuscitate  the  city  and  increase  its 
commercial  importance,  at  the  expense  of  Damietta,  Rosetta,  and 
Cairo.  The  population,  notwithstanding  the  fearful  ravages  of 
the  plague,  is  said  to  be  fifty  or  sixty  thousand.  I  must  here 
mention  that  the  interior  of  the  town  is,  in  most  places,  a  suc- 
cession of  narrow,  dirty,  unpaved  lanes,  filled  with  camels,  asses, 
lizards,  and  dogs,  and  I  only  wonder  the  plague  does  not 
exist  all  the  year. 

My  first  excursion  was  to  Pompey's  Pillar.  My  friend  and 
myself  mounted  on  donkeys,  and  away  we  galloped  through  the 
suburbs  of  the  city,  passing  occasionally  groups  of  Egyptian 
women  with  their  heads  and  faces  covered  with  a  sort  of  blue 
cotton  cloth,  concealing  all  except  their  eyes,  the  lids  of  which 
are  singularly  colored  with  India  ink.  They  are  particularly 
fond  of  ornaments,  which  are  suspended  from  the  ears  and  from 
the  forehead  over  the  veil.  On  passing  several  groves  of  palm, 
date,  and  banana  trees,  and  feeling  the  powerful  rays  of  the  sun 
at  mid-day,  T  was  reminded  of  the  West  India  climate,  from 
which  this  does  not  materially  differ.  After  passing  through  a 
long  line  of  Arab  huts  we  came  to  this  magnificent  column, 
erected  by  Pompeius,  governor  of  Lower  Egypt,  in  honor  of  the 
Emperor  Diocletian.  Standing  on  a  gentle  elevation  it  rises 
nearly  one  hundred  feet  in  height.  The  shaft  is  of  red  granite, 
ten  feet  in  diameter,  with  a  clumsy  Corinthian  capital  on  the  top  to 
crown  the  summit.  Notwithstanding  it  is  more  than  two  thou- 
sand years  old,  it  still  remains  almost  perfect. 

We  next  directed  our  attention  to  the  beautiful  Obelisks,  one 
of  which  is  commonly  called  Cleopatra's  Needle,  and  still 
stands  erect  in  all  its  grandeur  and  beauty,  covered  with  hiero- 
glyphics on  every  side.  It  is  sixty-four  feet  high  and  eighty- 
eight  feet  square,  and  was  brought  from  the  city  of  Memphis  to 
adorn  the  palace  of  the  Ptolemies.  The  hieroglyphics  are  as 
clear  on  one  side  as  if  but  recently  sculptured,  but  the  sirocco 
blowing  from  the  desert  two  thousand  years  has  effaced  the 
marks  on  one  side  considerably,  and  worn  away  the  solid  granite. 
The  other  obelisk,  which  lies  beside  it,  is  said  to  have  been 
taken  down  by  the  English  many  years  ago ;  but  Mehemet  Ali 
prevented  them  from  taking  it  away,  and  there  it  lies  half 
covered  with  sand,  a  magnificent  piece  of  work. 

On  entering  the  harbor  of  Alexandria'!  was  surprised  at  the 


100  THE    EGYPTIAN   FLEET. 

extent  of  tlie  Egyptian  fleet,  and  had  a  strong  desire  to  visit 
some  of  tbe  naval  vessels,  the  arsenal,  &;c.  On  visiting  the  latter 
we  were  accompanied  through  every  department  by  the  com- 
mandant, a  French  gentleman,  who  was  exceedingly  polite ;  and 
here  we  found  about  four  thousand  persons,  which  is  only  a  por- 
tion of  those  employed  during  the  war.  I  was  also  surprised  at 
finding  shipbuilding,  casting  furnaces,  ropemaking,  in  a  word 
all  that  is  necessary  for  fitting  out  a  navy.  Among  the  number 
of  ofiicers  there  were  some  young  Arabs  who  had  been  sent  to 
England  to  acquire  knowledge  in  the  arts.  I  observed  among 
the  workmen  that  many  had  lost  an  eye,  and  others  had  the 
two  first  fingers  of  the  right  hand  cut  off.  I  concluded  that  the 
cause  of  the  first  was  ophthalmia,  which  is  very  general  in  Egypt, 
being  caused  by  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun  upon  the  desert, 
but  found  on  inquiry  that  during  the  war,  when  conscriptions 
were  made  for  soldiers  in  the  army,  hundreds  and  thousands,  to 
prevent  being  liable  to  military  service,  preferred  destroying  the 
pupil  of  the  right  eye  with  a  small  rod  of  hot  iron,  or  by  cutting 
off  the  forefingers  of  the  right  hand,  thus  preventing  the  use  of 
it  in  pulling  the  trigger ;  but  the  Pasha  was  not  to  be  thwarted 
in  his  designs,  and  actually  formed  left-handed  regiments,  and 
also  employed  those  conscripts  in  the  public  service. 

The  next  day,  after  visiting  the  public  works,  our  party  visited 
the  palace  of  the  Pasha,  which  is  extensive  and  fitted  up  with 
taste,  in  the  oriental  style,  with  high  ceilings  and  divans  extend- 
ing on  three  sides  of  the  grand  saloons ;  also  the  great  luxury  of 
the  East,  splendid  marble  bathing  rooms.  The  palace  is  beauti- 
fully situated,  with  a  view  of  the  harbor  in  front,  and  pictu- 
resque and  rich  gardens  in  the  rear. 

On  leaving  the  palace  on  the  water  side  by  arrangement  with 
the  Swedish  consul,  under  whose  patronage  we  were,  we  found 
the  captain  of  an  Egyptian  cutter,  with  fourteen  oarsmen,  in 
attendance  to  convey  us  on  board  of  one  of  the  one  hundred 
gun  frigates,  which  carries  seven  hundred  men.  After  having 
satisfied  our  curiosity  in  the  examination  of  a  beautiful  frigate 
in  fine  order,  we  repaired  to  the  cabin  and  accepted  the  univer- 
sal civilities  of  the  East,  a  pipe  six  feet  in  length,  well  charged 
with  Egyptian  tobacco,  and  a  small  cup  of  coffee,  all  of  which 
must  be  submitted  to,  or  you  give  offence. 

My  two  travelling  companions  and  myself,  who  purpose  visit- 


MAHMOUDIE   CANAL.  101 

ing  Upper  Egypt  in  going  to  the  cataract  of  the  Nile,  taking 
Grand  Cairo,  the  Pyramids,  Memphis,  and  the  ruins  of  Thebes 
in  the  route,  are  now  busily  employed  in  procuring  a  suitable 
boat,  with  supplies  of  all  provisions  necessary  for  six  weeks  or 
two  months. 

We  intend  leaving  to-morrow  if  our  servants  succeed  in  get- 
ting beds,  furniture,  provisions,  and  all  the  paraphernalia  of 
housekeeping  which  are  necessary  for  such  a  voyage.  There- 
fore you  may  expect  to  hear  from  me  next  at  Grand  Cairo. 


XXIX. 

Grand  Cairo,  Egypt,  Jan.  20,  1842. 

We  started  off  all  our  boat  furniture,  supplies  of  cooking 
utensils,  provisions,  &c.,  on  camels,  ourselves  and  Arab  servants 
on  horses  and  donkeys,  making  quite  a  formidable  party,  bring- 
ing up  the  rear.  On  arriving  at  the  Mahmoudie  Canal,  which 
connects  Alexandria  with  the  Nile,  we  took  our  boat  for  Atfe, 
a  small  town  at  the  junction  of  the  canal  with  the  river.  We 
soon  commenced  our  journey,  towed  by  four  Arab  boatmen, 
with  ropes  across  their  breasts ;  and  when  the  wind  favored, 
made  use  of  sails.  This  canal  is  considered  one  of  the  greatest 
works  of  the  age,  being  sixty  miles  in  length,  ninety  feet  in 
breadth,  and  eighteen  in  depth,  through  a  perfectly  flat  country. 
It  is  certainly  a  remarkable  work,  and  could  only  be  made  in  a 
country  like  Egypt,  where  the  will  of  Mehemet  Ali  is  law. 
Every  village  was  ordered  to  furnish  a  certain  quota,  in  propor- 
tion to  its  population,  and  thus  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
workmen  were  secured  at  once  ;  and  in  one  year  from  its  com- 
mencement, the  whole  excavation  was  completed.  As  a  grand 
stride  in  public  improvement  it  was  a  great  work,  and  does  honor 
to  the  energies  of  the  Pacha ;  but  the  wanton  disregard  of  human 
life  that  attended  it  was  shocking  to  humanity,  as  it  proved  the 
grave  of  thirty  thousand  of  the  laborers. 

On  arriving  at  Atfe,  we  discharged  our  canal  boat,  and  went 
in  search  of  a  suitable  river  boat  for  the  Upper  Nile.  Having 
succeeded  in  finding  one,  of  the  class  called  "canziah,"  and 
made  our  contract  with  the  reis,  or  captain,  we  were  prepared  to 
depart ;  but  as  the  north  wind,  which  usually  blows  the  same 


102  UP   THE   NILE. 

way  for  eight  or  nine  months  in  the  year,  making  it  easy  to 
ascend  the  Nile,  was  contrary,  we  employed  our  time  in  visiting 
an  Arab  village  near  by. 

These  villages  are,  in  most  instances,  mere  huts,  built  of  mud, 
or  unburnt  bricks,  and  so  low  that  the  inmates  cannot  stand 
erect  in  them,  but  have  a  hole  in  front  to  crawl  in.  The  Delta, 
stretching  out  from  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  inundated  annu- 
ally by  the  Nile,  is  remarkably  rich  and  productive.  The  town 
called  Atfe,  at  the  junction  of  the  canal,  concentrates  all 
the  23roducts  of  the  upper  country,  and  presents  a  lively 
scene,  of  vessels  unloading  cotton  and  various  kinds  of  grain, 
with  hundreds  of  men  and  women  employed  in  discharging 
them. 

The  Nile  here  is  about  a  mile  wide,  and  the  current  tolerably 
strong.  After  a  stay  of  one  day,  the  wind  having  changed,  we 
started  up  the  river.  Our  boat  was  about  fifty  feet  in  length, 
manned  with  ten  stout  Arabs,  who  were  stretched  upon  the 
deck,  or  gathered  around  a  pail  of  rice,  proving  conclusively 
that  fingers  were  made  before  forks ;  whilst  the  two  immense 
lateen  sails,  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  were  spread  to  the  breeze, 
and  we  went  with  great  velocity.  As  the  wind  slackened  at 
night,  where  the  banks  permitted,  the  Arabs  would  twist  the 
huge  ropes  around  them,  wade  ashore,  and  commence  pulling 
the  vessel  against  the  stream. 

On  the  third  day  of  our  voyage  to  Cairo,  the  wind  being 
strong  against  us,  my  two  companions  having  taken  their  guns 
in  hand,  to  go  in  pursuit  of  pigeons  and  other  kinds  of  game, 
that  are  found  in  abundance,  I  strolled  along  the  banks  of  this 
mighty  and  most  extraordinary  and  interesting  river,  which 
rolls  its  waters  more  than  a  thousand  miles  through  a  sandy 
desert,  fertilizing  a  narrow  strip  by  its  inundations,  and  could 
not  be  surprised  that  the  Arabs  loved,  and  the  Egyptians  wor- 
shipped, that  which  produced  fertility  in  a  soil  where  every 
species  of  fruit  and  grain  grows  almost  spontaneously.  I  soon 
discovered  an  Arab  village,  to  which  I  directed  my  steps, 
through  beautiful  fields  of  grain  and  groves  of  palm  trees, 
which  present  a  splendid  view  in  the  distance ;  but  on  entering 
them  the  illusion  vanishes.  On  gazing  at  the  men  and  women 
— many  of  whom  were  almost  in  a  primitive  state,  with  scarcely 
clothing  enough  to  cover  their  nakedness — I  could  only  wonder 


CAIRO.  103 

whether    the   effects  of  climate,  or  bad  government,   reduced 
them  to  their  abject  state,  in  such  a  fruitful  country. 

On  the  morning  of  the  fourth  day,  we  arrived  at  Boulac,  a 
populous  town  by  the  river's  side,  and  in  another  half  hour 
found  ourselves  within  the  walls  of  Cairo ;  and  here,  several 
novel  scenes  presented  themselves.  Many  loaded  dromedaries 
and  camels ;  the  dashing  Arab  steed,  with  the  Turk  and  glitter- 
ing sabre ;  the  Jews  and  Armenians,  in  costume ;  the  haughty 
Janizary,  dashing  through  the  crowd ;  the  harem  of  some  rich 
Turk,  the  women  robed  in  black,  riding  on  donkeys,  with  two 
or  three  black  eunuchs  for  a  guard;  the  swarthy  Bedouin  of 
the  desert ;  in  fact,  all  characters  forming  a  perfect  masquerade, 
or  miniature  representation  of  the  oriental  world. 

Cairo  has  a  population  of  two  hundred  thousand  ;  its  appear- 
ance from  a  distance  is  pleasant,  with  its  minarets,  domes,  and 
cupolas,  and  it  has  a  much  cleaner  and  more  comfortable  interior 
than  other  Mahomedan  cities.  The  streets  are  narrow  and 
dark,  producing  a  shade  which  is  necessary  in  this  climate ; 
although  they  appear  warmer  than  they  are,  because  of  the  pro- 
jection of  the  first  floors,  or  second  stories,  which  advance  so 
far  that  in  some  of  the  narrowest  streets  they  are  only  a  few 
inches  distant  from  the  houses  opposite. 

Among  our  many  excursions  was  one  to  the  "  Valley  of  the 
Wanderings,"  or  forest  of  Agate  in  the  Desert,  on  the  route  to 
the  Eed  Sea.  After  quitting  Cairo,  and  passing  through  the 
great  Mameluke  Cemetery,  we  entered  into  the  desert  for  about 
five  miles,  where  we  found  immense  quantities  of  petrifactions 
of  trees,  in  which  are  seen  the  grain  of  the  wood ;  in  some 
places  trunks  from  twenty  to  fifty  feet  in  length  lie  prostrate. 
Reeds  and  roots  are  also  found,  and  quantities  of  shells.  It 
appears  as  if  a  forest  had  been  petrified,  and  then  thrown  down 
by  a  hurricane,  or  some  other  convulsion,  and  shattered  to  frag- 
ments in  the  fall.  All  is  conjecture  as  to  the  origin  and  cause 
of  these  forests. 

On  visiting  the  citadel  of  Cairo  we  were  shown  the  place 
M'here  the  unfortunate  Mamelukes  were  slaughtered  by  the  pre- 
sent Pasha,  while  smoking  their  pipes  of  peace,  having  been 
invited  on  a  visit  of  friendship,  and  were  pent  up  and  murdered, 
only  one  escaping  by  leaping  his  horse  over  the  citadel  walls 
and  down  an  immense  precipice.     Here  was  also  the  Mint,  and 


104  SLAVE   MARKET. 

JosepTi's  Well,  or  the  well  of  Saladin,  forty-five  feet  wide,  and 
cut  two  hundred  and  seven tj-four  feet  through  solid  rock,  to  a 
level  with  the  Nile. 

On  visiting  the  slave  market  I  found  perhaps  five  or  six  hun- 
dred slaves  for  sale,  most  of  them  naked,  except  a  slight  cover- 
ing across  the  loins,  and  some  covered  with  blankets.  A  large 
proportion  were  from  Dongola  and  Sennaar,  and  exceedingly 
black  and  ugly.  The  Abyssinians  have  yellow  complexions 
and  good  teeth ;  and  some  quite  pretty  are  kept  separate  from 
the  mass,  among  whom  were  some  well  dressed,  wearing  orna- 
ments of  gold  and  chains  ;  two  particularly  good-looking  caught 
hold  of  my  hand  as  I  passed,  smiling  and  coquetting,  and 
seemed  to  express  by  their  gestures  a  desire  that  I  would  buy 
them,  and  pouted  when  I  left.  Prices  vary  from  one  hundred 
dollars  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars ;  but  some  who  were  sick 
were  offered  at  almost  nothing,  as  so  much  perishable  goods, 
which  the  seller  wanted  to  dispose  of  before  it  was  entirely  lost. 

Yesterday  we  went  to  the  Pyramids,  passing  through  a  suc- 
cession of  beautiful  gardens  of  Ibrahim  Pacha.  We  reached  Old 
Cairo,  occupying  the  site  of  the  Egyptian  Babylon,  on  the  Nile, 
and  celebrated  in  sacred  history  as  the  spot  where  Pharaoh's 
daughter  found  the  infant  Moses  in  his  cradle  of  bulrushes. 
Further  on  we  stopped  to  examine  the  ovens  for  hatching 
chickens,  in  general  use  in  Egypt.  It  was  a  large  establishment, 
and  capable  of  hatching  by  the  wholesale.  The  entrances  were 
so  narrow  and  low  as  to  be  difficult,  leading  into  small  vaulted 
chambers,  connected  with  each  other,  on  one  side  of  which  are 
■ovens.  The  eggs  remain  seventeen  days,  and  on  the  eighteenth 
the  chickens  quit  the  shell.  Out  of  two  thousand  eggs  the 
manager  counts  on  one  thousand  chickens.  The  general  heat  is 
one  hundred  degrees  Fahrenheit  during  the  process. 

On  crossing  the  Nile  I  discovered  the  Pyramids  in  the 
distance,  near  the  margin  of  the  desert,  but  they  did  not  appear 
what  I  had  imagined,  and  it  was  only  until  I  approached  and 
beheld  the  four  that  I  could  realize  them,  and  not  until  I 
approached  and  commenced  ascending,  that  I  could  appreciate 
this  mammoth  work.  The  Grreat  Pyramid,  the  largest  of  the 
four,  is  a  gigantic  work,  being  a  square  of  seven  hundred  and 
forty-six  feet,  and  its  perpendicular  height  four  hundred  and 
sixty-one  feet,  being  higher  than  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  or  the 


THE   PYRAMIDS,  105 

Cathedral  at  Strasburg,  and  one  hundred  and  seventeen  feet 
higher  than  St.  Paul's  of  London,  all  of  which  I  have  ascended. 
The  quantity  of  stone  used  in  this  single  pyramid  is  estimated  at 
six  million  tons,  and  a  hundred  thousand  men  are  said  to  have 
been  employed  ninety  years  in  raising  it.  The  top  is  about 
thirty  feet  square.  There  are  two  hundred  and  six  layers  of 
stone,  the  average  height  from  two  to  four  feet.  They  are  so 
arranged  as  to  form  a  series  of  steps,  so  that  any  person  may 
mount  with  the  assistance  of  two  Arabs  on  the  outside  to  aid  in 
stepping  up.  We  were  aided  by  two  Arabs  each,  and  others 
carrying  the  supplies  of  provisions  and  water,  of  which  we  made 
a  repast  on  the  top.  The  prospect  from  the  summit,  the  rich 
valley  of  the  Nile  covered  with  verdure,  with  herds  of  buffalo 
quietly  feeding,  caravans  of  camels  winding  their  way  along  the 
margin  of  the  river,  is  very  beautiful.  On  the  other  side  it  is 
dreary  and  gloomy  indeed,  the  surface  only  broken  by  the 
tracks  of  the  caravans,  and  no  signs  of  vegetation.  It  is 
estimated  that  this  great  pyramid  covers  eleven  acres  of  ground. 
The  next  largest  pyramid  is  six  hundred  and  eighty-four 
feet  square,  and  four  hundred  and  fifty-six  feet  high.  Besides 
the  four  great  pyramids  there  are  smaller  ones  that  appear 
in  the  distance,  and  also  ruins  of  mausoleums  about  the 
grand  pyramid,  which,  seen  from  the  top,  look  like  tombstones 
round  a  church.  On  entering  the  pyramid,  knowing  that  it 
was  difficult  of  access  and  almost  insufferable  on  account  of 
dust,  we  sent  in  three  Arabs  with  candles,  forbidding  the  others 
who  swarmed  around  to  enter,  but  they  were  determined  to  go 
in,  thereb}^  hoping  to  get  a  few  paras  more  for  services.  It  was 
not  until  our  dragoman  placed  himself  at  the  narrow  passage, 
three  and  a  half  feet  square,  with  his  musket  in  hand,  and 
threatened  to  shoot  the  first  man  who  attempted  to  enter,  that 
we  could  pass  alone.  We  descended  about  ninety  feet  from  the 
opening,  which  is  the  one  hundred  and  sixty-third  step  of  the 
pyramid,  at  an  angle  of  twenty -seven  degrees,  then  turned  and 
mounted  several  steps  into  a  passage  one  hundred  feet  long  and 
five  feet  high.  At  the  end  is  found  the  queen's  chamber, 
seventeen  feet  long,  fourteen  wide,  and  twelve  high,  of  polished 
granite.  Above  this,  ascending  an  inclined  plane  one  hundred 
and  twenty  feet  long,  of  granite,  highly  wrought,  is  the  king's 
chamber,  thirty-seven  feet  long,  seventeen  wide,  and  twenty  feet 


106  BACK  IN   CAIRO. 

high.  The  slabs  of  stone  which  form  the  ceihng,  consisting  of 
nine,  extend  from  side  to  side.  The  walls  are  highly  polished,  of 
red  granite,  and  here  is  a  sarcophagus  seven  feet  six  inches  long, 
three  and  a  half  feet  deep,  and  three  and  a  half  broad,  supposed 
to  have  been  the  tomb  of  one  of  the  greatest  rulers  of  the  south. 
It  was  very  hot  and  suffocating,  with  the  glare  of  the  light  and 
the  abundance  of  dust,  and  I  was  rejoiced  when  I  came  out. 

On  our  arrival  at  Cairo  we  discharged  our  boat,  having  suffered 
considerably  from  fleas  and  other  vermin,  while  our  baggage  was 
injured  by  rats.  We,  however,  procured  another  boat,  with  a 
comfortable  little  cabin  astern  on  deck,  just  large  enough  for 
three  persons.  The  first  move  was  to  sink  her  in  the  Nile, 
thereby  destroying  all  the  vermin.  After  she  was  hauled  out 
her  owner,  according  to  contract,  painted  our  little  cabin, 
furnished  us  with  glass  windows,  which  were  a  novelty,  thereby 
making  our  habitation  for  six  weeks  as  comfortable  as  possible. 
She  is  furnished  with  new  sails,  and  a  crew  consisting  of  the 
reis  and  twelve  stout  Arabs.  She  is  almost  seventy  feet  long, 
with  a  sharp  bow,  and  two  enormous  sails,  triangular  in  form, 
and  attached  to  two  tall  spars  eighty  or  ninety  feet  long,  heavy 
at  the  end,  and  tapering  to  a  point.  These  rest  upon  two  short 
masts,  changing  their  position  with  the  wind,  playing  upon 
pivots.  Having  again  furnished  ourselves  with  supplies  of 
provisions,  this  being  the  last  place  for  purchasing  many  articles 
in  use  by  Europeans,  we  shall  start  for  the  upper  country  to- 
morrow or  next  day,  and  you  may  not  hear  from  me  again  in 
some  time,  there  being  no  communication  by  mail. 


XXX. 

Thebes,  Upper  Eoypt,  Feh-uary  13,  1842, 
"We  left  Cairo  on  the  24th  of  January,  and  arrived  here  after 
a  passage  of  twenty  days.     I  must  now  recur  to  my  journal  to 
recount  some  of  the  adventures  of  the  voyage. 

The  first  day  we  made  but  little  progress  against  a  strong 
current,  although  we  had  all  our  Arab  crew  ashore,  with  ropes 
across  their  breasts,  pulling,  and  at  night  found  ourselves  moored 
among  the  reeds  of  the  island  of  Ehoda,  where  it  is  recorded 
that  Moses  was  found  by  the  daughter  of  Pharaoh.     While  here, 


ON  THE  NILE.  107 

we  were  boarded  by  a  Nubian,  of  a  dark,  tall,  and  fine  figure, 
bearing  bis  orders  in  diamonds  and  sabre  by  his  side.  Not 
knowing  bis  designs,  we  desired  him  to  be  seated,  and  following 
the  custom  of  the  country  presented  coffee  and  a  pipe,  when  he 
produced  a  paper  in  Arabic  for  the  arrest  of  our  reis,  or  captain, 
who  owed  a  certain  sum  of  money.  High  words  ensued,  in 
which  the  captain,  crew,  and  domestics  took  part,  and  we,  being 
determined  not  to  be  detained,  produced  the  firmans  of  the 
Sultan  and  Mehemet  Ali,  stating  that  we  could  not  be  stopped, 
when  he  very  politely  concluded  to  defer  the  arrest  until  the 
return  of  the  barge.  The  second  day  the  scene  had  changed ; 
with  a  fine  wind  and  our  tall  sails  spread  to  the  breeze,  we  were 
dashing  against  the  rapid  current,  and  making  fine  progress,  and 
leaving  Cairo  in  the  distance,  when  we  suddenly  found  ourselves 
upon  a  sand  bank,  which,  as  we  have  since  found,  is  a  thing  of 
frequent  occurrence.  Instantly  ten  or  eleven  naked  Arabs  and 
Barbary  negroes  plunged  into  the  river,  and  we  soon  found  the 
boat  lightened  and  again  under  way.  At  night  the  wind  ceased, 
and  we  drew  up  to  the  bank,  alongside  of  an  Arab  village,  while 
the  rays  of  the  setting  sun  gilded  beautifully  the  mountains  and 
the  desert  in  the  distance.  The  village,  surrounded  with  palm 
trees  gently  waving,  and  tlie  rich  verdure  of  the  plain,  seemed 
to  me  more  beautiful  than  ever.  The  morning  of  the  26th,  to  our 
surprise,  found  the  wind  dead  ahead  and  strong;  I  started  along 
the  bank  with  my  two  companions  shooting  pigeons,  which  are 
found  in  great  abundance,  and  saw  about  two  hundred  Egyptians, 
a  large  proportion  half  naked,  employed  in  making  dyes.  Our 
appearance  and  guns  created  a  sensation.  We  frequently  encoun- 
tered groups  of  women  and  girls  with  massive  jugs,  which,  after 
having  filled  them  with  Nile  water,  they  put  upon  their  heads 
and  march  off  in  line.  Their  appearance  differs  from  those  in 
large  cities,  from  their  not  having  a  veil  to  cover  their  faces ; 
but  on  our  approach  they  endeavored  to  cover  them  with  a  blue 
cotton  shawl  which  is  worn  on  the  head  and  shoulders.  They 
are  swarthy,  with  feet  and  ankles  bare,  their  faces  and  hands 
marked  with  a  blue  color  resembling  India  ink ;  they  wear 
many  ornaments  about  the  neck,  wrists,  and  even  ankles,  and 
not  unfrequently  rings  in  the  nose. 

27th, — Wind  still  contrary,  which  is  rare,  as  it  usually  blows 
from  the  north  during  the  winter  months.     Although  our  men 


108  ON  THE  NILE. 

tugged  heavily  all  day,  we  made  very  little  progress.  At  night 
we  halted  at  a  small  village,  where  we  found  a  caravan  of  men, 
women,  and  children,  with  their  camels,  all  reposing  upon  their 
mats  and  straw  for  the  night,  whilst  our  Arab  crew  were  gathered 
around  a  fire  on  the  bank.  Had  an  eclipse  of  the  full  moon  this 
evening,  which  has  created  an  excitement  among  the  superstitious 
Arabs,  causing  many  invocations  to  the  prophet. 

28th. — This  is  the  most  horrible  and  disagreeable  day  we  have 
had  upon  the  Nile.  The  wind  ahead,  and  blows  a  perfect  gale ; 
cannot  change  our  position.  Yesterday  was  warm  and  delight- 
ful, but  to-day  extremely  cold.  Our  men  are  wrapped  up  in  all 
the  covering  they  can  find,  and  we  are  glad  to  confine  ourselves 
to  the  cabin. 

29th  and  30th. — The  wind  still  being  against  us,  we  were 
almost  discouraged  with  the  prospect ;  but  the  ruins  of  immor- 
tal Thebes,  which  had  her  hundred  gates,  were  before  us,  and 
beckoned  us  on. 

31st. — We  made  some  progress  to-day  in  towing,  but  no  wind. 
Discovering  a  mud  village  in  the  distance,  I  took  an  Arab  ser- 
vant with  me,  to  bring  a  supply  of  poultry,  eggs,  and  mutton, 
which  can  be  procured  at  almost  all  places  along  the  Nile, 
These  articles,  with  a  species  of  cake  called  bread,  are  about  all 
that  can  be  procured,  excepting  in  the  largest  towns.  On  return- 
ing to  the  boat,  I  saw  several  mounted  horsemen,  who  were 
cautioning  my  companions  not  to  go  alone  into  the  villages,  as 
four  soldiers  had  just  been  killed  by  the  villagers. 

Feb.  4th. — I  made  my  appearance  again  on  deck,  having  been 
confined  to  my  bed  for  the  last  three  days  with  cold  and  fever, 
from  the  effect  of  checked  perspiration.  Fortunately,  I  had  a 
medicine  chest,  to  which  I  am  indebted  for  my  quick  recovery. 
In  a  country  like  Egypt,  where  no  medical  attendance  can  be 
procured,  it  is  all-important  to  be  provided  with  the  necessary 
remedies ;  besides  which,  among  the  Arabs,  who  have  a  great 
passion  for  medicine,  one  soon  acquires  distinction  in  the  title  of 
"  hakim."  Before  our  arrival  at  Thebes,  three  of  our  crew  fell 
sick,  but  a  strong  dose  to  each  was  sufficient  to  effect  a  cure, 
and  they  seemed  to  feel  under  many  obligations. 

After  the  4th,  our  prospects  changed  ;  the  wind  veered  round 
to  the  north,  and  we  found  our  bark  gliding  along  with  great 
velocity,  passing  some  important  towns  and  villages,  with  the 


DENDERA.  109 

determination  to  stop  on  our  return,  not  wishing  to  lose  such  a 
fine  wind,  which  we  held  most  of  the  way  to  Thebes.  In  ascend- 
ing the  Nile  new  sights  are  continually  rising  to  view.  In  one 
place  may  be  seen  a  herd  of  buffalo  and  camels,  quietly  grazing 
upon  the  rich  plain ;  while  near  at  hand  are  discovered  half-a- 
dozen  Egyptians,  in  a  state  of  nature,  raising  water  to  irrigate 
the  soil,  by  buckets  fastened  to  a  pole,  like  our  old-fashioned 
well-poles.  The  next  moment,  perhaps,  you  discover  fifteen  or 
twenty  crocodiles,  from  ten  to  fourteen  feet  long,  and  as  nume- 
rous as  in  the  days  when  the  Egyptians  worshipped  them.  As 
they  lay  basking  in  the  sun,  we  would  give  them  a  passing  shot, 
which  would  shake  their  scaly  sides  and  send  them  tumbling  in 
the  water.  Upon  the  Nile,  one  who  is  fond  of  shooting,  finds 
plenty  of  amusement,  as  pelicans,  wild  ducks,  geese,  and  eagles 
abound,  and  in  many  places  are  found  the  hyena,  gazelle,  foxes, 
wolves,  and  other  animals.  The  slave  trade  is  still  continued 
from  Dongola  and  Senaar.  We  saw  one  large  boat  descending 
with  upwards  of  one  hundred  on  board,  who  were  bought  for  a 
small  sum,  or  some  article  of  necessity,  from  their  parents,  and 
were  now  wending  their  way  to  the  slave  market  at  Cairo,  or 
perhaps  to  Siout,  where  the  abominable  traffic  in  eunuchs  for 
the  harems  is  still  carried  on.  It  is  to  be  hoped,  under  the 
enlightened  government  of  Mehemet  Ali,  that  the  latter  detesta- 
ble practice  will  be  abandoned. 

On  arriving  at  Dendera,  within  a  day's  sail  of  Thebes,  we 
visited  the  ruins  of  the  temple,  &c.,  which  stands  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  from  the  river,  on  the  side  of  the  desert,  and 
occupies  an  area  of  three  and  a  half  miles  in  circumference. 
It  is  the  first  temple  one  sees  on  coming  up  the  Nile,  and  is 
decidedly  the  best  preserved  one  in  Egypt.  It  is  impossible  to 
describe  this  superb  building,  which  I  found  much  more  beauti- 
ful than  I  had  expected,  although  considerably  choked  up  with 
sand  and  stones,  and  forming  the  centre  of  an  Arab  village, 
which  was  abandoned  from  some  cause  or  other.  Their  huts 
not  only  surrounded  it,  but  crowned  the  summit  of  the  temple 
itself.  Nothing  can  exceed  its  magnificence.  It  is  as  rich  in 
sculpture,  hireoglyphics,  and  mythological  paintings,  as  the 
greatest  lover  of  antiquity  could  desire.  Its  dimensions  are 
enormous.  The  vestibule,  or  porch,  has  twenty-one  figures 
along  the  ceiling,  ending  with  the  vulture,  the  guardian  genius 


110  LUXOR, 

of  the  kings  and  heroes  of  Egypt.  On  each  hand  are  three  rows 
of  columns,  with  three  columns  in  each  row — making  eighteen 
— which  occupy  the  body  of  the  vestibule.  The  exterior  walls, 
as  well  as  the  interior,  and  columns,  are  covered  with  sculptured 
devices  of  the  most  remarkable  execution :  the  winged  globe, 
vulture,  hawk,  ibis,  Isis,  Osiris,  gods,  goddesses,  priests,  and 
women,  sacred  boats,  with  the  sacred  bulls  which  were  formerly 
exhibited  to  the  admiring  multitude.  What  is  most  remarkable 
is,  that  after  the  lapse  of  two  thousand  years,  the  painting  should 
appear,  in  many  instances,  as  if  executed  but  a  month  ago. 
There  are  several  other  smaller  temples  and  gates  of  the  city 
still  standing,  which  are  also  full  of  interest.  Dendera,  which 
was  anciently  called  Tentyra,  is  situated  near  the  west  bank  of 
the  Nile,  about  two  hundred  and  sixty  miles  south  by  east  of 
Cairo,  and  its  ruins  bespeak  its  former  greatness. 

In  my  next  I  shall  endeavor  to  give  you  some  idea  of  the 
gigantic  ruins  of  Thebes,  with  Luxor  and  Karnak,  which  are  said 
to  have  extended  twenty -three  miles  in  circumference ;  and  the 
valley  of  the  Nile  not  being  able  to  contain  them,  their  extremi- 
ties rested  upon  the  bases  of  the  mountains  of  Arabia  and 
Africa. 


XXXI. 

Djirjeh,  Upper  Egypt,  February  20,  1842. 
My  last  was  from  Thebes,  after  having  made  the  ancient  port 
of  Luxor  and  found  ourselves  some  seven  or  eight  hundred 
miles  from  the  sea,  secured  to  the  old  quay  where  the  Egyptian 
boatmen  tied  their  boats  three  thousand  years  ago.  On  the 
eastern  or  Arabian  side  of  the  Nile  are  the  immense  ruins  of 
Luxor  and  Karnak.  The  temple  of  Luxor  is  a  mere  skeleton  ; 
the  greater  part  of  the  columns  stand  yet,  but  the  outside  walls 
have  been  thrown  down,  and  the  materials  carried  away.  It 
stands  very  near  the  river  bank,  and  was  supposed  to  be  for  the 
use  of  the  boatmen.  The  temple  was  six  hundred  feet  in  length ; 
the  interior  court  was  three  hundred  feet  long  and  one  hundred 
and  sixty  feet  wide,  and  the  double  row  of  columns,  twelve  feet 
diameter  and  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  high,  were  covered  with 
sculpture.     Before  a  magnificent  gateway  of  the  temple  stands  the 


KARNAK.  Ill 

survivor  of  the  beautiful  obelisks  which  have  withstood  the 
hand  of  time  for  three  thousand  years.  It  is  a  single  block  of 
red  granite,  eighty  or  ninety  feet  high,  covered  with  sculpture 
and  hieroglyphics  beautifully  executed.  Its  fellow  was  taken 
by  the  French,  and  now  stands  in  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  at 
Paris.  The  refinement  of  civilization  has  dared  to  remove  what 
the  grossness  of  barbarism  feared  to  touch.  The  obelisks  were 
among  the  few  objects  spared  by  the  Persians  on  entering  Egypt, 
probably  from  the  flict  that  they  were  the  symbols  of  the  sacred 
element,  fire^  which  the  Persians  worshipped. 

The  gateway  of  this  magnificent  ruin  is  two  hundred  feet  long 
and  sixty  feet  high ;  the  front  of  the  interior  wall  is  covered 
with  sculpture,  representing  the  battle  scenes  of  an  Egyptian 
warrior  in  different  attitudes,  advancing  at  the  head  of  his  army, 
breaking  through  the  ranks  of  the  enemy;  sometimes  in  a 
chariot  drawn  by  fiery  steeds,  with  plumes  waving  over  their 
heads,  the  bow  bent,  the  arrow  drawn  to  its  extremity,  whilst 
the  dead  and  wounded  are  falling  under  the  wheels  of  his  car ; 
with  a  great  variety  of  other  devices. 

Leaving  Luxor  we  proceeded  to  Karnak,  a  distance  of  about 
two  miles,  and  in  approaching  the  ruins  of  the  immense  temples 
which  occupy  a  mile  in  diameter,  we  passed  through  the  avenue 
of  sphinxes,  each  a  solid  block  of  granite,  lining  the  whole  length 
of  the  road,  which  was  sixty  feet  wide,  regularly  formed,  and 
shaded  by  rows  of  poplar  trees.  Many  are  broken,  but  some  are 
quite  perfect,  and  solemn  as  when  the  ancient  Egyptians  passed 
to  worship  in  the  great  temple  of  Ammon.  Here  we  saw  several 
rows  of  sphinxes.  The  grand  temple  of  Karnak,  which  was 
twelve  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  four  hundred  and  twenty  feet 
in  breadth,  stood  in  the  centre  of  a  series  of  smaller  temples,  with 
avenues  of  sphinxes  and  colossal  statues  radiating  from  it.  The 
principal  entrances,  of  which  there  were  twelve,  were  so  contrived 
as  exactly  to  front  the  corresponding  temples  on  the  other  side  of 
the  river  at  Thebes,  which  must  have  added  much  to  the  effect 
produced  by  the  annual  processions  of  the  priests  and  gods  of 
Egypt,  when  they  were  carried  in  solemn  triumph  from  the  Ara- 
bian to  the  Lybian  side  of  the  Nile,  Some  of  the  smaller  temples 
surrounding  this  gigantic  structure  are  larger  than  many  other 
temples  elsewhere.  Here  are  seen  many  colossal  statues,  twenty 
or  thirty  feet  high,  some  sitting,  others  erect.     In  front  of  the 


112  THEBES. 

body  of  the  temple  is  a  large  court,  with  an  immense  colonnade 
on  each  side,  of  thirty  columns  in  length,  and  through  the 
middle  two  rows  of  columns  fifty  feet  high ;  then  comes  an 
immense  portico,  the  roof  supported  originally  by  one  hundred 
and  thirty-four  columns ;  I  counted  one  hundred  and  twenty-six 
still  standing,  which  measured  from  thirty  to  thirty -six  feet  in  cir- 
cumference. Here  are  three  beautiful  obelisks,  seventy  feet  high, 
the  sanctuary  of  highly  polished  granite,  the  walls  of  which 
are  covered  with  sculpture  representing  offerings  to  the  gods. 
The  walls  inside  and  out,  as  also  the  columns  in  every  part,  are 
covered  with  every  variety  of  device,  representing  the  acts  of 
their  kings,  the  worship  of  their  gods,  &c.  Here  are  immense 
walls  and  gates  and  ruins,  with  cemeteries,  in  which  are  still 
standing  colossal  figures  of  rams,  and  those  of  men  with  the 
heads  of  animals.  In  fact,  it  is  impossible  to  form  any  correct 
estimate  of  these  gigantic  remains.  One  is  struck  with  wonder 
and  confusion,  and,  to  use  the  language  of  Dr.  Eichardson,  who, 
looking  from  one  of  the  gateways,  exclaims,  "  the  vast  scene  of 
havoc  and  destruction  presents  itself  in  all  the  extent  of  this 
immense  temple,  with  its  columns,  and  walls,  and  immense 
propylons,  all  prostrate  in  one  heap  of  ruins,  looking  as  if  the 
thunders  of  heaven  had  smitten  it  at  the  command  of  an  insulted 
God." 

I  have  visited  all  the  ruins  of  Thebes,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river,  which  occupied  several  days,  but  it  is  useless  to  attempt  to 
describe  them,  as  what  I  have  already  spoken  of  is  not  half  of 
the  ruins  of  this  once  magnificent  city.  Many  are  prostrate  and 
nearly  buried  in  the  sand,  but  the  traces  are  still  visible.  The 
temples  of  Goorneh,  Northern  Dair,  Memnonium  and  Medinet 
Abou,  with  their  columns  and  colossal  figures,  still  raise  their 
giant  skeletons  above  the  sands,  and,  as  Mr.  Stevens  has  said, 
"  volumes  have  been  written  upon  them,  and  volumes  may  yet 
be  written,  and  he  that  reads  all  will  have  but  an  imperfect 
view  of  Thebes — that  all  the  temples  were  connected  by  long 
avenues  of  sphinxes,  statues,  propylons,  and  colossal  figures,  and 
the  reader's  imagination  will  work  out  the  imposing  scene  that 
was  presented  in  the  crowded  streets  of  the  now  desolate  city, 
when,  with  all  the  gorgeous  ceremonies  of  pagan  idolatry,  the 
priests,  bearing  the  sacred  image  of  their  god,  and  followed  by 
thousands  of  the  citizens,  made  their  annual  procession  from 


THE   TOMBS   OF   THE   KINGS.  113 

temple  to  temple,  and,  '  with  harps,  and  cjnnbals,  and  songs  of 
rejoicing,'  brought  back  their  idol,  and  replaced  him  in  his  shrine 
in  the  grand  temple  at  Karnak." 

The  tombs  of  the  kings  are  by  far  the  most  ancient  and 
interesting  of  all  the  antiquities  of  Thebes.  There  is  nothing  in 
the  world  like  them,  and  he  who  has  not  seen  them  can  scarcely 
believe  in  their  existence.  The  whole  mountain  range  is  one 
vast  cemetery,  and  it  is  supposed  that  some  millions  of  bodies 
were  deposited  there.  On  passing  through  an  Arab  village,  one 
half  of  which  was  composed  of  excavations  for  mummies,  in 
which  the  Arab  finds  a  better  resting-place  than  his  mud  cot- 
tage, we  were  almost  suffocated  with  the  dust  and  scorching  rays 
of  the  sun,  and  were  also  surrounded  by  scores  of  men,  women, 
and  children,  with  various  relics  of  antiquity,  such  as  heads, 
hands,  and  feet  of  mummies,  also  remnants  of  sarcophagi,  beau- 
tifully painted.  The  road  is  through  a  dreary  waste  of  sand 
after  leaving  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Nile,  and  the  tombs  show 
their  dark  and  gloomy  openings  in  one  of  the  most  desolate 
spots  imaginable.  There  are  very  many  of  these  tombs,  but 
the  principal  one,  which  is  called  Belzoni's,  having  been  dis- 
covered by  him,  is  three  hundred  and  nine  feet  long,  and  con- 
tains fourteen  chambers  of  different  sizes.  A  flight  of  thirty 
steps  descends  to  the  entrance,  where  the  doorway,  wide  and 
lofty,  is  without  sculpture.  Here  is  a  hall,  extremely  beautiful, 
twenty -seven  feet  long  and  twenty-five  feet  broad,  having  at  the 
end  an  open  door  leading  into  a  chamber  twenty-eight  feet  long 
by  twenty-five  feet  broad,  the  walls  covered  with  painted  figures 
as  perfect  as  if  only  a  month  old.  Another  flight  of  steps  here 
descends  to  a  chamber  twenty-four  feet  by  thirteen.  The  walls 
are  covered  with  figures,  marching  in  solemn  procession  to  the 
regions  of  the  dead.  This  flight  of  steps  leads  to  another 
doorway,  over  which  is  seen  the  sign  of  the  goddess  of  dark- 
ness. Advancing  to  the  next  corridor,  the  walls  are  covered 
with  figures  of  boats,  rams,  mystic  emblems  of  the  gods  of 
Egypt,  &c.  Another  apartment  is  adorned  by  massive  square 
pillars,  which,  like  the  others,  are  covered  with  hieroglyphics. 
Eeturning  into  the  great  chamber,  and  descending  a  flight  of 
eighteen  steps,  we  follow  a  continuation  of  the  corridor,  the 
walls  of  which  are  covered  with  paintings  representing  the 
actions  of  the  monarch,  perhaps  the  tomb  of  Pharaoh.     In  pass- 

8 


11-i  MUTINOUS   CREW. 

ing  from  hall  to  hall,  we  saw  a  lofty  arched  saloon,  thirty-two 
feet  long  and  twenty-seven  feet  broad.  One  of  those  chambers 
is  forty-three  feet  long  and  eighteen  wide.  One  apartment  is 
adorned  with  two  columns  and  a  raised  stone  bench,  hollowed 
out,  in  recesses  extending  all  around  the  chamber.  In  the  centre 
of  the  grand  saloon  was  found  a  sarcophagus,  of  the  finest  ori- 
ental alabaster,  only  two  inches  thick,  minutely  sculptured 
within  and  without  with  several  hundred  figures,  and,  it  is  said, 
perfectly  transparent  when  a  light  is  placed  upon  it.  The  walls 
of  these  chambers  and  other  tombs  are  generally  covered  with 
intaglio  and  relief,  representing  funeral  processions,  the  serpent, 
and  many  other  emblems  of  eternity — sarcophagi,  religious  pro- 
cessions, a  great  variety  of  animals  and  birds,  agricultural  scenes 
and  implements,  sacrifices,  sacred  boats,  gods,  goddesses,  priests, 
chained  captives,  the  cutting  off  hands  from  the  arms  by  way 
of  punishment,  &c.  &c.  These  magnificent  halls,  by  the  light 
of  our  torches,  produced  a  magic  effect  in  going  from  the  dreary 
desert  without. 

After  having  visited  many  of  the  tombs  of  the  kings  and 
others,  we  took  the  statues  of  Shamy  and  Damay  on  our  route. 
These  two  sitting  statues,  of  enormous  size,  are  in  the  centre  of 
a  vast  cultivated  plain,  and  are  of  equal  size,  being  fifty-two  feet 
high  and  forty  feet  apart.  The  thrones  on  which  they  sit,  are 
thirty  feet  long,  eighteen  broad,  and  eight  feet  high.  Both  have  suf- 
fered considerably  from  violence,  particularly  the  vocal  Memnon. 
These  figures  were  formerly  part  of  a  grand  avenue  of  sphinxes. 

While  at  Thebes  we  had  a  mutiny  among  our  crew.  We 
were  unfortunate  in  having  Arabs  and  half  Barbary  negroes, 
who  could  not  agree.  Our  only  resource  was  to  present  ourselves 
before  the  governor  or  sheik  of  the  little  village  of  Luxor,  with 
the  all-powerful  firman  of  the  Sultan  and  Mehemet  Ali  in  hand, 
and  make  known  our  grievances.  The  usual  form  of  justice 
was  administered  with  the  calash,  or  piece  of  rhinoceros'  hide, 
to  one  of  the  worst  by  way  of  example,  and  the  sheik  finding 
the  barbarians  still  obstinate,  imprisoned  them  until  we  were 
ready  to  start,  while  he  and  his  associate,  the  governor  of  the 
Nile,  came  down  to  our  boat,  sipped  our  coffee,  smoked  our 
long  pipes  with  the  dignity  of  a  grand  seignor,  received  the 
"backsheesh"  of  eight  piastres  each,  equal  to  three-fourths  of  a 
dollar,  and  went  off  perfectly  happy. 


THE   VALLEY   OF   THE   NILE.  115 

Our  next  place  of  debarkation  was  at  Belianacli,  where  we 
mounted  donkeys,  without  saddle  or  bridle,  and  rode  to  the 
ruins  of  Abydos,  the  capital  of  the  great  Osymandias  or  Osmen- 
des,  who  is  supposed  to  have  lived  2276  years  B.C.  There  are 
some  remarkable  ruins  there.  Among  the  number  the  Mem- 
nonium  and  small  temple  of  Osiris,  remarkable  for  having  had 
a  sanctuary  made  of  alabaster,  and  for  containing  the  famous 
tablet  of  the  kings,  which,  next  to  the  Rosetta  stone,  has  been 
of  the  greatest  assistance  to  the  students  of  hieroglyphics.  The 
valley  of  the  Nile  at  this  point,  I  should  think,  is  six  miles  broad, 
and  abounding  in  vegetation.  The  wheat  is  in  blossom,  beans 
and  peas  are  ripened,  and  it  was  a  rich  sight  to  see  the  herds 
of  goats  and  sheep,  camels  and  buffalo,  grazing  upon  the 
plain. 

We  were  obliged  to  stop  here  for  want  of  wind,  and  to  reple- 
nish our  crew,  the  barbarians  having  taken  the  liberty  of  making 
off,  sans  ceremonie.  I  have  therefore  been  obliged  to  have 
another  interview  with  the  two  governors  at  this  place,  who 
have  promised  to  furnish  us  with  men.  The  past  two  days  my 
two  companions  have  had  plenty  of  amusement  in  shooting  at 
crocodiles,  as  we  had  no  wind,  and  the  weather  was  warm. 
They  are  prepared  for  the  heat  of  the  climate,  being  dressed  in 
Turkish  costume,  with  heads  shaved.  It  being  a  sin  to  shave 
the  beard  in  this  country,  we  have  all  a  great  profusion  of  hair 
upon  the  visage. 


XXXII. 

African  Desert,  March  8,  1842. 
The  governor  sent  us  four  men,  called  sailors,  to  supply  the 
place  of  six  who  had  absconded ;  but  such  a  crew  I  never  saw.. 
One  was  blind  of  an  eye,  another  lame,  the  third  too  old  for 
service.  The  instructions  of  the  governor,  who  had  forced  them 
on  board,  were,  to  continue  with  us  to  Siout,  the  capital  of 
Upper  Egypt,  where  plenty  of  men  could  be  found.  To  cap 
the  climax,  the  next  day,  while  detained  by  a  strong  head  wind, 
the  lame,  blind,  and  halt  took  leg  bail,  unperceived.  We  made 
a  further  application  at  another  village,  and  succeeded  in  getting 
men  to  go  as  far  as  Siout,  at  which  place  we  wished  to  sto]),  to 


116  SIOUT. 

visit  Caves,  about  four  miles  distant  from  the  river,  in  the 
mountains. 

Having  mounted  donkeys,  we  started  for  the  city,  which  is 
situated  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  river ;  and  the  road 
being  studded  with  rows  of  trees  on  each  side,  it  was  an  agreea- 
ble excursion. 

On  arriving  within  the  walls,  we  presented  ourselves  before 
the  Effendi,  who  occupied  a  handsome  house,  with  a  grove  of 
palm  trees  in  the  rear.  We  found  him  squatted  with  his  officers 
upon  carpets,  on  a  low  divan,  each  enjoying  the  luxury  of  a 
long  pipe,  with  an  amber  mouth-piece.  He  desired  us  to  be 
seated,  when  coffee  and  pipes  were  presented;  and,  after  the 
usual  etiquette  had  been  passed  through,  our  credentials  were 
presented,  and  our  wants  made  known  to  the  dragoman.  He 
immediately  sent  his  janizary  to  the  governor  of  the  Nile,  with 
instructions  to  procure  us  a  complement  of  good  sailors,  which 
was  effected ;  and  on  paying  them  all  they  demanded,  we  suc- 
ceeded remarkably  well. 

The  streets  of  Siout  are  unpaved,  narrow,  and  irregular ;  the 
houses  are  built  of  unburnt  brick,  and  differ  in  no  respect  from 
the  generality  of  those  usually  met  with  on  the  Nile.  During 
the  inundations  the  whole  country  is  overflowed,  and  boats  of 
the  largest  size  anchor  under  the  wall  of  the  city,  at  which  time 
it  communicates  with  the  river  by  an  artificial  causeway  of 
immense  size.  The  country  about  is  rich  and  fertile  in  the 
extreme,  owing  to  the  annual  inundations  of  the  Nile.  The 
palace  and  gardens  of  Ibrahim  Pacha  were  well  worthy  of  a 
visit.  The  tombs  and  immense  chambers  which  are  found  in 
the  mountain  in  the  vicinity,  are  very  interesting,  but  bear  no 
comparison  with  those  of  the  tombs  of  the  kings  at  Thebes.  On 
entering  some  of  those  gloomy  chambers,  with  our  torches,  we 
were  beset  by  bats  of  enormous  size,  that  literally  swarmed 
there,  and  afforded  much  amusement  in  the  chase.  On  firing  a 
gun  in  one  of  the  dark  recesses,  we  killed  two,  and  found  them 
to  be  the  most  extraordinary  animals  of  the  kind  I  had  ever 
seen,  being  the  size  of  a  full-grown  rat,  and  with  much  the  same 
appearance,  with  the  exception  of  the  mouth,  which  was  like 
that  of  a  wolf,  and  the  extended  wings.  On  coming  out  of  the 
tombs,  covered  with  dust,  and  fatigued,  we  proceeded  to  the 
city  to  enjoy  the  luxury  of  a  Turkish  bath.      The  Orientals 


MEMPHIS.  117 

enjoy  the  vapor  and  liot  baths  to  such  an  extent,  that  in  almost 
all  their  towns  and  villages  they  are  to  be  found ;  but  I  had  no 
idea  of  finding  such  perfection  here,  and  must,  for  the  novelty 
of  the  thing,  describe  it.  After  passing  two  chambers,  one 
hotter  than  the  other,  we  arrived  at  the  third,  where  the  heat 
and  vapor  were  almost  suffocating,  and  there  found  half-a-dozen 
naked  Arabs  waiting  for  their  three  customers ;  when  such  a 
scene  of  confusion  commenced  as  I  cannot  describe,  to  decide 
who  should  have  the  "  white  skins."  After  they  had  fought  it 
out,  and  our  servants  had  settled  it  by  agreeing  to  divide  the 
backsheesh,  or  gift,  they  commenced  with  burning  musk  and 
perfume.  While  the  perspiration  rolled  out  from  every  pore,  I 
was  rubbed  from  head  to  foot  with  a  camel's  hair  glove,  and 
then  laid  on  the  hot  marble  floor,  while  my  arms  were  crossed 
upon  my  back  and  breast,  and  almost  the  weight  of  the  Arab's 
body  thrown  upon  me.  All  my  joints  were  drawn  and  cracked, 
while  showers  of  hot  water  were  thrown  upon  me  ;  and,  almost 
in  an  exhausted  state,  myself  and  my  two  companions  were  led 
into  an  adjoining  room,  with  white  turbans  on  our  heads, 
wrapped  in  sheets,  where  we  reposed  upon  divans  for  an  hour, 
partaking  of  coffee,  lemonade,  and  pipes.  After  this  fatiguing, 
but  refreshing,  bath,  one  feels  like  a  new  man,  particularly  when 
the  heat  of  the  day  is  intense. 

On  descending  the  Nile,  we  stopped  at  several  towns  and 
villages  to  see  the  bazaars,  and  study  further  the  manners  and 
customs  of  the  people,  but  I  cannot  attempt  a  description  for  want 
of  space.  I  will,  however,  mention  that  we  visited  the  pyra- 
mids of  Sakkara,  and  the  site  of  ancient  Memphis ;  but  as 
nothing  of  interest  now  exists  at  the  latter,  and  having  described 
in  a  former  letter  the  immense  pyramids  of  Ghizeh,  I  shall  not 
speak  of  Sakkara,  which  is  smaller,  and  of  less  consequence. 
Near  the  same  site  is  Abousir,  a  small,  miserable  village,  situated 
upon  the  edge  of  the  desert,  where  are  three  pyramids  of  large 
size,  and  many  tumuli.  Near  this  place,  after  an  excursion  of 
four  or  five  miles  from  the  verdant  banks  of  the  Nile,  we  found 
the  mountain  which  contains  the  famous  Catacomb  of  Birds. 
With  torches,  we  entered  the  narrow  hole,  on  our  hands  and 
knees,  to  see  places  formerly  occupied  by  the  mummies.  We 
found  passages  leading  in  every  direction  through  the  moun- 
tain, many  fragments  of  mummies,   and   many  a  sarcophagus 


118  EN  EOUTE  TO  THE  HOLY  LAND. 

entire.  The  entrance  to  tlie  Catacomb  of  Birds  is  bj  a  pit, 
twenty-two  feet  deep,  at  the  bottom  of  which  is  a  horizontal  pas- 
sage, sixty  feet  long,  nearly  choked  up  with  sand,  dirt,  and  broken 
jars,  along  which  one  has  to  creep  ;  but  after  some  distance,  the 
passage  is  high  enough  to  stand  erect,  and  there  are  large  rooms 
in  which  are  deposited  the  jars  containing  the  sacred  birds. 

We  arrived  at  Cairo  on  the  28th  of  February,  having  had 
fine  winds  and  a  rapid  current  in  descending  the  Nile,  for  several 
days.  My  great  anxiety  to  visit  the  Holy  Land  had  been 
increasing  upon  me,  although  it  was  attended  with  great  fatigue 
and  risk,  but  my  travelling  companion,  a  Prussian  nobleman, 
whom  I  met  in  Greece,  concluded  to  accompany  me.  I  took 
our  dragoman,  called  upon  the  sheik  of  the  Bedouin  tribe,  who 
could  furnish  us  with  camels,  and  with  whom  I  made  a  contract 
before  the  Consul,  in  Arabic,  to  cross  the  desert  to  Jerusalem  in 
fifteen  days,  he  attending  us.  No  danger  was  to  be  apprehended 
from  the  tribe,  but  some  alarming  events  have  already  taken 
place,  which  I  will  recount  in  my  next  letter. 

On  leaving  Cairo  our  caravan  presented  quite  a  formidable 
appearance,  consisting  of  three  dromedaries  for  ourselves  and 
dragoman,  four  camels  for  our  tent,  water,  luggage,  and  two 
servants,  with  five  Arabs  to  drive  the  camels.  For  the  greater 
security  I  had  forwarded  the  most  valuable  ]3art  of  my  luggage 
to  Alexandria,  and  myself  and  companion  had  an  ample  supply 
of  firearms,  and  we  were  also  disguised  in  the  Turkish  costume, 
which  does  not  attract  so  much  attention  as  a  European  dress. 
On  the  second  day  after  leaving  Cairo  we  encamped  at  Tanta, 
on  the  borders  of  the  Delta  and  the  Desert,  where  we  under- 
stood Mehemet  Ali  had  retired  to  his  country-seat,  and  having 
made  the  acquaintance  of  Artim  Bey,  the  first  dragoman  to  his 
Highness,  we  were  promised  a  presentation  in  the  evening,  our 
letters  of  introduction  being  satisfactory.  On  arriving  at  the 
gate  of  the  wall  which  surrounds  the  country  palace  we  were 
escorted  by  a  number  of  the  body  guards,  a  corps  which  com- 
prises a  select  body  of  one  hundred  men,  to  the  portico,  where 
were  several  sentinels  with  presented  arms.  Artim  Bey  here 
presented  himself  and  invited  us  in,  when  we  were  delighted  in 
seeing  the  extraordinary  man  who  has  figured  so  largely  in 
Egypt  for  the  past  forty  or  forty-five  years.  On  entering  the 
saloon  we  discovered  Mehemet  Ali  seated  upon  a  divan  which 


MEHEMET  ALL  119 

extended  around  three  sides  of  the  apartment.  He  was  dressed 
in  full  Turkish  costume,  with  his  feet  drawn  up  under  him. 
He  saluted  us,  and  beckoned  us  to  be  seated,  when  our  conver- 
sation commenced  on  different  topics,  and  continued  for  half  an 
hour.  The  subject  of  agriculture  upon  the  'NUe,  the  necessity 
of  great  exertion  and  labor  to  prevent  the  encroachment  of  the 
sands  of  the  desert,  the  introduction  of  foreign  trees  and  plants 
into  Egj^pt,  in  which  he  has  effected  much,  seemed  particularly 
to  interest  him.  He  has  yet  the  appearance  of  vivacity,  is  a 
man  of  strong  constitution,  short  in  stature,  with  a  venerable 
long  beard  as  white  as  snow.  Ilis  age  is  now  seventy-five.  His 
leaning  couch  or  pillow  was  of  crimson,  richly  embroidered 
with  gold,  with  long  tassels  suspended.  In  front  of  us  on  the 
floor  stood  two  large  chandeliers,  elegantly  wrought;  his  nephew 
sat  upon  the  opposite  divan,  while  the  interpreter  stood  at  his 
side,  and  some  fifteen  or  twenty  beys  and  officers,  forming  a 
separate  group  in  a  semicircle,  following  the  laws  of  etiquette, 
remained  standing  during  our  visit. 

In  all  private  houses  in  Turkey  and  Egypt  the  pipe  and  coffee 
are  almost  immediately  presented  on  being  seated,  but  at  the 
palace  of  the  Pasha  the  pipe  is  dispensed  with,  and  coffee  only 
is  presented  in  small  gold  and  silver  cups. 

We  are  now  in  the  solitude  of  the  desert,  and  feel  somewhat 
relieved  from  our  apprehensions  of  robbers,  with  whom  we  have 
had  an  adventure,  the  particulars  of  which  I  must  defer  till  my 
next.  Our  little  hut  in  which  I  now  write  is  about  ten  feet  in 
diameter,  sufficiently  large  for  my  companion  and  myself  to 
spread  our  mattresses,  arrange  our  private  luggage  and  table, 
while  outside  of  the  tent  the  camels  lie  crouched  upon  all  fours, 
forming  a  semicircle  around  a  small  charcoal  fire,  around  which 
lie  the  Arabs  stretched  upon  the  sand.  Our  servants,  having 
furnished  us  our  evening's  repast,  and  satisfied  their  own  appetites 
after  a  hard  da3^'s  ride  upon  the  camels,  have  stretched  their  mats 
upon  the  sand  by  the  side  of  the  interpreter,  and  all  is  quiet 
except  an  occasional  groan  from  a  camel,  or  the  half  conscious 
song  of  an  Arab.  Eeally  this  travelling  in  the  desert  is  of  the 
most  novel  and  extraordinary  character,  and,  although  attended 
with  great  fatigue,  one  is  somewhat  compensated  by  the 
peculiarity  of  the  voyage,  independent  of  the  strong  desire  to 
see  Palestine. 


120  A   MIDNIGHT  ATTACK. 


XXXIIL 

Quarantine,  G-aza,  March  18,  1842. 

My  last  was  written  in  the  desert,  since  which  time  we  have 
been  en  route,  and  were  quarantined  yesterday  on  entering  this 
place,  it  being  represented  that  the  plague  existed  in  Egypt, 
On  this  voyage  by  the  desert  we  have  had  adventure  after 
adventure,  and  I  must  here  relate  the  incidents  alluded  to  in  my 
last.  The  fourth  day  of  our  departure  from  Cairo  we  had 
travelled  most  of  the  time  through  a  desert  country,  occa- 
sionally striking  in  the  palm  groves.  At  four  o'clock  p.  m.  we 
found  ourselves  near  an  Arab  village,  and  our  camels  were  dis- 
charged and  tent  struck,  while  the  Count  and  mj^self  started  in 
pursuit  of  some  wild  ducks,  but  were  followed  by  one  of  our 
Arabs,  who,  by  signs  and  gestures,  insisted  that  we  should  not 
pass  by  the  village.  We,  however,  persisted,  and  on  returning 
I  made  the  remark  that  I  would  not  trust  myself  there  without 
arms.  In  the  evening  one  of  our  servants,  an  Armenian,  to 
our  surprise  told  us  not  to  hang  any  clothes  or  loose  luggage  on 
the  side  of  the  tent  opposite  to  where  the  camels  and  their 
drivers  were  stationed,  saying  there  were  many  robbers  who 
would  steal  our  things  in  the  night.  We  rather  ridiculed  the 
idea,  not  believing  they  dared  approach  the  tent,  knowing  us  to 
be  armed.  Our  camel  drivers  pretended  to  watch  through  the 
night,  and  at  one  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  were  awaked  with 
the  report  of  a  musket  and  the  whizzing  of  a  ball  alongside  of 
our  tent,  and  the  cries  of  our  men  to  sally  forth  with  our  arms. 
In  an  instant  with  muskets  and  pistols  we  were  outside  the  tent, 
while  the  bustle  and  excitement  showed  the  brigands  that  we 
were  ready  for  them  if  they  came.  It  was  the  most  fearful 
night  I  ever  passed.  The  idea  of  being  shot  like  a  dog  under 
cover  of  night,  was  not  only  exciting  but  provoking.  In  a  state 
of  anxiety  we  watched  until  four  o'clock  in  the  morning,  during 
which  time  we  had  two  pistol  shots,  but  none  taking  effect.  At 
this  hour  the  men  rose ;  we  heard  the  cry  of  the  Musselmans  for 
the  morning  prayer  in  the  village,  and  considered  ourselves 
exceedingly  fortunate  in  escaping  unhurt. 

At  an  early  hour  we  left  this  place  which  was  so  full  of  dan- 
ger, and  which  gave  rather  fearful  apprehensions  for  the  future. 


ANOTHER  NIGHT  ALARM.  121 

Our  guns  and  pistols  were  kept  charged  and  ready  for  use,  and 
this  evening  we  encamped  some  distance  in  the  desert,  away 
from  the  trees  which  form  a  cover  for  the  robbers.  In  the  even- 
ing one  of  our  servants  entered  the  tent,  and  I  observed  he  drew 
a  heavy  sigh,  and  on  demanding  the  cause  he  said  nothing,  but 
pressing  him  still  further  for  an  explanation,  he  said  he  had 
great  anxiety  for  our  safety ;  that  in  the  village  they  were  all 
Musselmans,  and  did  not  like  the  Christian  pilgrims  who  go  to 
Jerusalem,  and  would  kill  us — which  was  not  very  agreeable 
information,  but  this  part  of  his  story  we  could  not  credit.  That 
evening  after  I  had  extinguished  the  candle  and  laid  myself 
upon  my  mattress  for  a  half  hour,  I  heard  the  report  of  a  gun 
not  far  distant.  It  was  really  extremely  exciting  after  the 
events  of  the  past  night.  Our  men  were  watching,  and  we  had 
resolved,  if  we  were  compelled  to  sell  our  lives,  it  should  be  at  a 
dear  rate.  We  passed  the  night  under  great  apprehension,  and 
in  the  morning  passed  through  the  village  and  found  the  walls 
of  many  mud-houses  destroyed  and  deserted,  and  the  inhabit- 
ants who  remained  appeared  fit  subjects  for  robbery. 

The  next  night,  after  a  hot  and  fatiguing  journey,  we  found 
ourselves  upon  the  borders  of  the  vast  desert  which  we  were 
about  to  enter  for  several  days.  Not  having  slept  for  two 
nights,  and  there  still  being  danger,  we  presented  ourselves 
before  the  sheik  of  this  village,  which  was  of  some  importance, 
and  with  the  firman  of  Mehemet  Ali  demanded  a  guard  of  eight 
armed  men  for  the  night,  who  surrounded  our  tent  while  we 
enjoyed  the  repose  which  we  so  much  needed. 

Here  we  were  obliged  to  fill  our  vessels  with  water,  and  buy 
fresh  supplies  for  six  or  seven  days  in  crossing  the  desert. 
After  quitting  this  village  and  getting  into  the  desert  we  felt 
ourselves  more  safe,  and  encamped  with  much  less  anxiety. 
Occasionally  we  would  see  some  Bedouin  Arabs  with  their  swar- 
thy features  and  long  black  beards,  with  a  carbine  swung  over 
their  shoulders  and  a  brace  of  pistols  in  their  belt,  having  every 
appearance  of  the  bandit,  but  of  them  we  had  no  fear,  as  our 
camel  drivers  belonged  to  the  same  tribe,  and  our  contract  was 
made  with  the  sheik. 

In  many  parts  of  the  desert  we  found  the  sand  exceedingly 
light  and  the  travelling  difficult,  the  sand  forming  itself  into 
mountains  with  the  drifting  of  the  wind,  and  resembling  in  the 


122  IN   THE   DESERT. 

distance  fields  and  mountains  covered  with  snow.  In  other 
parts,  particularly  as  we  approached  the  sea  towards  Gaza,  we 
found  immense  salt  marshes,  which  were  filled  with  the  wild 
boar,  and  on  the  sand  hills  adjoining  we  would  see  large  num- 
bers of  gazelles  scampering  away  from  us.  Some  of  those  salt 
water  lakes  which  we  passed  are  very  beautiful  indeed,  and,  with 
the  crystallization  of  the  salt,  have  the  appearance  of  new-made 
ice  all  along  the  edges,  and  in  some  instances  half  skimmed  over, 
while  the  banks  are  covered  with  stunted  bushes  of  a  grey  color, 
and  one  imagines  for  an  instant  that  it  is  the  season  of  winter. 
Near  one  of  these  salt  marshes  we  discovered  a  small  pool  of 
brackish  water,  from  which  the  Arabs  who  had  joined  our  cara- 
van replenished  their  sacks,  which  they  carry  on  their  backs, 
and  which  are  made  of  hog-skin.  I  could  not  help  remarking 
the  facility  with  which  those  travelling  Arabs  prepared  their 
supplies.  One  of  them,  after  filling  his  sack  with  water,  took  a 
sheep-skin  which  covered  his  shoulders,  and,  placing  it  on  the 
sand,  poured  on  the  inside  some  flour  from  another  small  sack, 
and  with  the  water  made  his  bread ;  then  gathering  some  brush 
together,  he  instantly  had  a  fire,  and  in  a  very  short  time  all  his 
wants  were  satisfied.  The  Arab  of  the  desert  is  contented  with 
bread  and  water ;  he  looks  upon  what  we  consider  necessaries  as 
luxuries,  and  if  he  had  them  perhaps  would  not  use  them. 

The  gait  of  the  camel  is  awkward  and  very  fatiguing  to  the 
rider.  He  kneels  and  rises  at  pleasure,  is  very  patient,  subsists 
upon  what  he  can  gather  from  plants  and  shrubs,  like  the  goat, 
goes  many  days  without  watei',  and  seems  in  every  way  adapted 
for  the  desert.  At  night,  in  striking  our  tent,  a  scene  of  life  and 
bustle  presented  itself  in  discharging  our  beasts ;  the  mats  are 
laid,  the  mattresses  brought  and  spread,  the  luggage  looked  after 
and  stowed  away  for  the  night ;  the  camel-drivers  are  searching 
for  wood  and  sticks,  the  camels  stroll  and  graze;  the  cook 
makes  a  fire  on  the  sand  and  prepares  the  dinner,  after  which 
comes  the  refreshing  sleep,  until  the  bustle  of  loading  in  the 
morning,  which  must  be  repeated  every  day. 

After  having  passed  the  desert  we  arrived  at  El  Arish,  a 
miserable  village  on  the  frontier  of  Palestine,  where  we  were 
told  that  at  Gaza  we  would  have  to  perform  a  quarantine  of  five 
or  eight  days,  as  we  were  supposed  in  coming  from  Egypt  to 
bring  the  plague  with  us. 


KHAN   yUNES.  123 

On  approaching  Scheik  Inde,  wliich  is  distant  twenty  miles, 
tlie  soil  is  light,  and  grass  and  sand  dispute  possession  with  each 
other.  Here  we  were  stopped  and  tribute-money  demanded. 
We  wished  to  know  the  reason,  to  which  one  of  the  four  persons 
who  stopped  us  replied  that  they  had  been  placed  there  by  the 
Sultan  to  demand  tribute  of  all  strangers.  This  we  doubted, 
and  wanted  to  see  their  authority.  Two  of  them  were  armed, 
and  refused  to  let  us  pass  without  compliance,  and  threatened  to 
hold  our  luggage.  Eeally  it  was  an  act  of  daring  impudence  to 
be  attacked  thus  on  the  high-road,  and  in  the  name  of  the  Sultan 
too.  We  finally  dared  them  to  stop  us,  threatening  not  onl}- 
with  weapons  but  the  vengeance  of  the  Sultan,  whose  firman  we 
had  at  command,  when  they  concluded  to  let  us  pass.  We  have 
since  understood  that  several  persons  through  fear  had  paid  the 
scoundrels  heavy  tribute. 

The  next  day  we  came  to  the  village  of  Khan  Yunes,  the 
environs  of  which  were  beautiful ;  the  gardens  filled  with  fruit 
trees  and  flowers,  the  hedges  of  cactus  indicus  or  prickly  pear, 
and  the  fields  clothed  with  verdure,  presented  a  lovely  sight 
after  having  been  in  the  desert  country  so  long  time.  On 
approaching  the  gate  of  the  village  we  were  stopped  and  notified 
that  we  were  to  perform  quarantine,  which  we  believed  they 
had  no  right  to  demand,  and  therefore  we  had  no  disposition  to 
be  thus  delayed.  We  demanded  an  audience  of  the  governor, 
but  found  he  was  absent.  We  insisted  on  passing,  but  they 
stopped  our  camels.  We  said  we  would  perform  quarantine  at 
Graza,  but  they  would  not  allow  us  to  pass  through  the  village, 
and  ordered  us  to  pitch  our  tent  on  the  commons,  there  to  serve 
out  our  quarantine.  High  words  ensued,  the  Count  took  up  his 
gun  and  threatened  to  shoot  the  officer  if  he  stopped  his  drome- 
dary. We  passed  around  the  village  on  the  road  to  Gaza,  when 
I  discovered  some  half-dozen  armed  men  coming  up,  who  were 
determined  we  should  stop.  Our  next  move  was  to  show  them 
that  we  had  the  firman  of  the  Sultan  and  could  not  be  arrested. 
Fortunately  for  us  they  could  not  read  Turkish,  and  on  our  pro- 
mise to  be  quarantined  at  Gaza,  they  permitted  us  to  pass.  We 
saw  many  others  less  fortunate,  who  were  quarantined  in  the 
open  field  without  a  covering  to  their  heads. 

Yesterday  we  arrived  at  Gaza,  the  approach  to  which  is  beau- 
tiful indeed,  the  road  winding  through  a  series  of  gardens  fenced 


124  IN    QUARANTINE. 

with  the  cactus  indicus,  reminding  me  of  Mount  Etna  at  the 
base  and  of  other  parts  of  Sicily.  The  groves  of  olives  with  the 
sycamore  tree  form  an  agreeable  shelter  from  the  rays  of  the 
sun,  and  the  country  is  exceedingly  fertile.  Before  reaching  the 
city  we  discovered  a  tent  by  the  road  side,  from  which 
approached  an  armed  guard,  and  keeping  at  a  respectful  dis- 
tance informed  us  we  were  to  be  quarantined  from  five  to  fifteen 
days  at  the  direction  of  the  Nazro,'  or  chief  officer  of  the  quaran- 
tine. We  found  resistance  would  be  fruitless,  and  were  marched 
off  to  the  ground,  a  mile  from  the  city,  where  we  pitched  our  tent 
upon  the  grass,  and  where  I  now  write  you.  It  is  ludicrous, 
but  at  the  same  time  disagreeable,  to  observe  the  guards  keeping 
us  off  at  the  length  of  a  stick  to  prevent  our  coming  in  contact 
with  them,  the  plague  being  a  contagious  disease,  and  much  to 
be  dreaded.  "We  desired  an  audience  of  the  governor  on  arriv- 
ing, that  we  might  endeavor  to  lessen  our  quarantine,  which  of 
course  could  not  be  granted,  as  all  persons  coming  from  Egypt 
at  this  season  of  the  year  are  suspected  of  having  the  plague 
with  them.  We  then  desired  a  visit  from  the  Nazro,  who  this 
morning  came  to  see  us.  Turkish  rugs  were  sent  outside  the 
tent  and  spread  upon  the  grass;  coffee,  pipes,  and  lemonade 
ordered  for  his  reception.  The  first  he  had  no  occasion  for, 
being  squatted  upon  his  own  carpet,  and  indeed  he  dared  not 
touch  ours,  as  it  was  sujDposed  to  be  pestiferous.  The  coffee  and 
lemonade  being  in  non-conductors  were  first  placed  upon  the 
ground  by  our  servant,  at  the  distance  of  six  or  seven  feet,  when 
his  attendant  presented  them  to  him.  After  having  explained 
through  our  dragoman  the  time  we  had  been  in  the  desert,  that 
the  plague  did  not  exist  in  Cairo  when  we  left,  and  expressed 
great  anxiety  to  arrive  at  Jerusalem,  we  then  exhibited  a  firman 
from  the  Sultan,  which  was  held  at  the  distance  of  three  feet 
with  a  sort  of  tongs  and  read ;  but  he  also  discovered  a  small 
bit  of  paper  which  enveloped  something  curious^  and  on  calling 
for  perfume  and  fire  to  fumigate  it,  much  to  his  surprise  found 
some  pieces  of  gold,  which  a  Turk  or  Arab  can  scarcely  refuse ; 
but  in  this  case  he  could  not  think  of  receiving  it,  being  sur- 
rounded by  too  many  witnesses.  But  he  being  satisfied  that 
there  is  no  possible  risk  in  lessening  our  quarantine,  and  that 
our  intentions  were  good,  has  this  evening  sent  his  secretary  to 
say  that,  in  consideration  of  our  having  passed  so  much  time  in 


GAZA.  125 

the  desert  and  several  days  in  Syria,  and  out  of  respect  for  the 
firman  of  the  Sultan,  with  a  certain  indispensable  hachsheesh^  it 
would  be  unkind  in  him  to  detain  us  more  than  another  day ; 
we  shall  therefore  be  on  the  move  again  after  to-morrow,  and 
rejoiced  to  escape  from  being  imprisoned  a  week  or  ten  days 
without  cause. 


XXXIV. 

Jerusalem,  March  25,  1842. 

Some  time  since,  when  I  crossed  the  mountains  of  Judea,  and 
my  eyes  beheld  the  holy  city  in  the  distance  for  the  first  time,  I 
could  not  help  exclaiming,  "  Is  it  possible  that  at  last,  after  a 
voyage  of  six  or  seven  thousand  miles  from  my  native  land,  I 
am  soon  to  visit  the  many  interesting  localities  connected  with 
the  life  and  sufferings  of  our  Saviour,  from  his  nativit}^  at  Beth- 
lehem to  his  crucifixion  upon  Mount  Calvary  ?"  most  of  which 
is  now  realized. 

My  last  was  from  the  quarantine  at  Gaza,  after  escaping  which 
we  entered  the  city,  visited  the  governor,  and  in  the  name  of 
the  Sultan  demanded  an  escort,  which  he  readily  granted,  by 
sending  two  mounted  gensd'armes  who  accompanied  us  to  the 
town  of  Kamlah,  the  ancient  Arimathea,  where  resided  Joseph 
who  took  from  the  cross  the  body  of  our  Lord  and  laid  it  in  his 
own  sepulchre. 

There  are  no  antiquities  at  Gaza,  and  the  traveller  looks  in 
vain  for  the  ancient  gates  connected  with  the  history  of  Samson. 
The  streets  are  narrow,  and  the  houses,  many  of  which  are 
situated  in  gardens,  are  unglazed,  but  the  location  is  beautiful, 
and  surrounded  with  groves  of  olive  and  palm  trees.  Our  first 
day's  travel  from  Gaza,  through  the  land  of  the  Philistines, 
brought  us  to  a  mud  village  at  night,  where  we  proposed 
striking  our  tent ;  but  much  to  our  surprise  we  found  the  bare- 
footed sheik  and  half-clad  Arabs  of  the  village  would  not  per- 
mit it,  asserting  that  the  country  was  infested  with  robbers,  that 
the  villages  were  against  each  other,  and  that  they  would  not  be 
responsible  for  our  safety.  They  showed  us  a  mud  khan, 
without  any  other  opening  than  a  sort  of  door  to  crawl  in, 
which  all  Turkish  villages  furnish  the  traveller,  and  some  of 


126  RAMLAH. 

which  are  habitable  for  one  night.  Being  finally  obliged  to 
submit  and  abandon  our  tent,  which  was  a  palace  in  comparison 
with  this  hovel,  we  struck  our  lights,  and  among  rats,  fleas,  and 
apprehensions  of  robbers,  from  either  the  village  or  country,  we 
passed  a  disagreeable  night,  escaping  at  break  of  day  scarified 
with  the  bites  of  insects,  and  looking  as  if  we  had  the  small-pox. 
The  next  day  we  arrived  at  Ramlah,  and  were  about  pitching  our 
tent  in  an  olive  grove,  when  our  chevalier,  who  was  mounted  on 
a  swift  Arab,  and  who  had  gone  in  advance  to  procure  horses  to 
go  to  Jerusalem,  came  down  upon  us,  saying  there  was  an 
American  Vice-Consul  at  that  place,  who  invited  us  to  his 
house.  The  invitation  was  readily  accepted,  as  it  commenced 
raining  for  the  first  time  since  we  left  Cairo.  We  were  wel- 
comed by  this  hospitable  Greek  with  a  hearty  shake  of  the 
hand,  and  soon  found  ourselves  at  ease,  seated  upon  a  low 
divan,  with  the  usual  cup  of  coffee  and  pipe.  It  was  a  luxury 
to  be  once  more  under  a  roof,  after  sixteen  days'  hard  riding 
upon  the  back  of  a  dromedary  in  crossing  the  desert. 

The  day  we  came  to  Ramlah,  through  our  anxiety  to  arrive 
early,  we  put  our  dromedaries  on  full  trot ;  mine  stumbled  and 
came  down  with  me.  It  was  a  long  fall^  but  I  escaped  with  a 
slight  bruise.  Having  sent  our  caravan  in  advance,  we  made  a 
few  excursions  on  horseback,  and  started  the  following  day  for 
Jerusalem.  Passing  the  village  of  Ludd  (Lydda),  where  the 
apostle  Peter  cured  Eneas  of  the  palsy,  after  two  hours'  ride  we 
commenced  the  first  ascent  of  the  mountains  of  Judea.  The 
road  winds  by  a  rugged  ravine,  round  a  detached  and  barren 
hill,  on  the  summit  of  which  is  the  village  of  Latroun,  or  Thief's 
Yiilage,  so  called  from  its  having  been  the  birthplace  of  the 
criminal  who  repented  on  the  cross,  and  for  whom  Jesus  Christ 
performed  his  last  act  of  mercy. 

Soon  after  leaving  this  village,  we  entered  the  mountains, 
portions  of  which  were  extremely  wild  and  romantic,  and 
abounding  with  flowers.  In  some  places  the  road,  or  path,  was 
almost  impassable,  and  steep  with  rugged  rocks,  and  we  had  to 
lead  our  horses.  This  road  is  not  considered  dangerous,  owing 
to  the  great  travel  from  Joppa.  We  passed  several  caravans  of 
camels,  donkeys,  Arabs,  and  also  pilgrims,  who  presented  quite 
a  singular  appearance ;  the  men,  women,  and  children  in 
various  costumes,  and  bound  for  the  holy  city.     After  passing 


CONVENT   OF   ST,    SALVADOR.  127 

the  most  elevated  of  the  chain  of  mountains,  where  vegetation 
almost  ceases,  we  descended  into  the  Vale  of  Jeremiah,  where 
we  visited  the  sheik  of  Abu  Gosch,  of  an  ancient  Arab  family, 
who  formerly  demanded  tribute  of  all  strangers  that  passed,  and 
whose  tribe  occupies  the  mountains  ;  but  his  rights  having  been 
asserted  and  maintained  against  the  Sultan,  at  length  his  author- 
ity was  confirmed  by  his  guarantee  of  the  peace  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  we  found  several  of  his  guards  by  the  roadside  at 
different  points.  He  showed  us  his  fine  Arab  steeds,  and  after 
partaking  of  an  Arab  repast,  while  seated  upon  Turkish  rugs 
upon  the  grass,  and  an  half-hour's  conversation  through  our 
dragomen,  we  left,  and  passed  into  a  deeper  valle}^,  called  the 
Valley  of  Turpentine,  near  which  we  came  to  the  brook  where 
the  youthful  David  picked  up  five  stones,  with  one  of  which  he 
killed  Goliah. 

After  a  few  hours'  ride  over  a  rough  road,  where  a  few  olive 
trees  are  the  only  signs  of  vegetable  life,  we  reached  the  top  of 
a  high  hill,  when  suddenly  the  anxiously  looked  for  city  pre- 
sented itself  to  view.  We  soon  found  ourselves  at  the  gate, 
where  our  bill  of  health  was  demanded,  and  found  our  caravan 
had  been  suspected  and  put  in  quarantine  ;  but  we  were  imme- 
diately liberated.  We  made  the  best  of  our  way  to  the  Convent 
of  St.  Salvador,  visited  the  father,  and  got  permission  to  stop. 

The  rooms  of  the  convent  are  small,  like  prisons,  with  iron 
gratings  for  windows,  but  are  considered  comfortable  enough 
for  pilgrims,  who  have  fared  much  worse  en  voyage.  The  first 
morning  after  my  arrival,  I  attended  the  Episcopal  service,  and 
found  a  small  congregation  worshipping  in  my  native  tongue ; 
and  the  words  of  Scripture  which  declare  that  "  where  two  or 
three  are  gathered  together  in  my  name,  there  will  I  be  with 
them,"  were  forcibly  impressed  on  my  mind. 

I  visited  bishop  Alexander  and  his  family,  whose  mission  was 
established  last  winter.  The  new  church  is  in  progress  of  con- 
struction, and  bids  fair  to  be  a  fine  edifice. 

Having  had  occasion  to  visit  the  palace  of  the  Pacha,  which 
was  formerly  the  location  of  the  house  of  Pilate,  I  mounted  the 
flat  roof  where  the  panorama  of  Jerusalem  was  taken,  and  saw 
below  me  the  square  of  Harem  Scheriff^  a  grand  and  noble 
retirement  for  the  Turks,  which  also  incloses  the  mosques .  of 
Omar  and  El   Aksar,  built  on  Mount  Moriah,   where  formerly 


128  PANORAMA  OF  JERUSALEM. 

stood  the  throne  of  Solomon  and  the  judgment-seat  of  David  ; 
and  a  certain  spot  is  shown,  where  the  Turks  believe  Mahomet 
is  to  judge  the  world,  assembled  in  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat, 
below.  None  but  Turks  are  allowed  to  visit  its  sacred  pre- 
cincts. It  is  prettily  arranged  with  walks,  fountains,  and  a  few 
orange  trees.  I  then  strolled  along  the  Via  Dolorosa,  regarding 
the  localities  with  interest  as  they  were  pointed  out ;  the  place 
where  Simon  assisted  to  carry  the  cross ;  where  the  crowning  of 
thorns  took  place ;  the  residence  of  Simon,  the  pharisee,  &c., 
until  I  arrived  at  St.  Stephen's  gate,  and  passed  down  the  ravine 
near  which  he  was  stoned  to  death.  I  soon  found  myself  in  the 
garden  of  Gethsemane,  and  here  the  olives  have  the  appearance 
of  great  age.  Near  by  was  shown  the  spot  where  the  apostles 
slept,  while  Christ  went  to  pray  in  the  grotto  near  at  hand,  and 
where  he  said,  "  Father,  if  it  be  Thy  toiliy  The  grotto  is  now 
fitted  up  by  the  Catholics,  and  lights  are  continually  burning. 
There  is  a  small  chapel  near  by,  fitted  up  as  the  tomb  of  the 
Virgin  Mary.  From  the  valley  I  ascended  the  Mount  of  Olives, 
which  is  a  round,  tabular  hill,  covered  with  verdure  and  a 
sprinkling  of  olives.  To  reach  the  summit  is  a  long  walk,  and 
half  way  up  are  the  remains  of  a  monastery,  built  on  the  spot 
where  Jesus  wept  over  Jerusalem,  foreseeing  how  her  people 
should  be  scattered,  and  her  high  places  made  desolate.  On  the 
top  of  the  hill  is  the  ancient  church  of  the  Ascension,  now  a 
Turkish  mosque.  Here  is  an  impression  made  in  the  rock,  to 
show  the  last  footprint  of  our  Saviour,  and  many  a  devout  pil- 
grim concludes  it  to  be  as  represented. 

Here  I  had  the  best  view  of  Jerusalem,  with  its  embattled 
walls  fortified  with  towers,  and  inclosing  the  city  on  all  sides, 
with  its  seven  gates. 

The  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  the  mosques,  the  Arme- 
nian convent,  the  Tomb  of  David,  the  Turkish  burial-grounds, 
the  spot  where  once  stood  the  palace  of  Herod,  &c.,  all  present 
themselves  at  one  view.  The  houses  of  Jerusalem  are  heavy, 
square  masses,  very  low,  without  chimneys  or  windows,  fiat  ter- 
races or  domes  on  the  top.  and  look  like  sepulchres  or  prisons. 
The  streets  are  unpaved,  narrow,  and  obscure,  and  said  to  be 
generally  very  dull ;  but  I  was  fortunate  in  arriving  here  to 
witness  the  ceremonies  of  the  Holy  Week,  the  same  as  I  was  at 
Rome,  last  year.     The  many  pilgrims  who  come  from  different 


OUTSIDE   THE   WALLS.  129 

parts  of  Asia,  Africa,  and  Europe,  composed  of  Greeks,  Arme- 
nians, Copts,  Latins,  and  some  Protestants,  give  the  city  life  as 
well  as  variety  of  character  and  costume,  and  create  an  active 
demand  for  the  necessaries  of  life. 

My  next  excursion  outside  the  walls  was  in  passing  the  gate 
of  the  prophet  David  on  the  top  of  Mount  Zion,  nearly  opposite 
to  the  tomb  of  David,  and  the  scene  of  the  Last  Supper.  Near 
the  gate  of  Bethlehem  we  saw  some  ancient  cisterns  of  Jewish 
workmanship,  which  are  alluded  to  in  Neh.  iii.  16,  and  Chron. 
xxxii.  30.  Here  are  also  a  number  of  sepulchres  cut  in  the  rock 
and  well  executed.  These  tombs  are  alluded  to  in  Neh.  iii.  6. 
Following  the  valley  of  the  Gihon  outside  of  the  walls,  we 
made  a  long  walk  until  we  came  to  the  cave  in  which  the  apostles 
hid  themselves  after  the  crucifixion.  Then  coming  along  we 
passed  the  Potter's  Field,  the  price  of  our  Saviour's  blood.  On  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  valley  of  Mount  Saba  near  which  flows 
the  brook  of  Kedron,  is  the  village  of  Siloam,  partly  built  and 
excavated  out  of  solid  rock ;  near  this  is  the  Pool  of  Siloam, 
where  we  descended  by  a  flight  of  sixteen  steps  to  the  water 
and  found  it  excellent.  A  little  further  on  are  three  ancient 
tombs,  cut  in  the  rock,  and  called  Jehoshaphat,  Zachariah,  and 
the  Pillar  of  Absalom — two  are  nearly  square,  and  adorned 
with  pilasters  and  columns.  In  the  vicinity  is  shown  the  spot 
where  Christ  was  arrested  by  the  officer  of  the  High  Priest,  and 
the  footprint  is  cut  in  the  rock  to  mark  the  place. 


xxxy. 

Jaffa,  April  7,  1842. 

When  I  wrote  you  last  from  Jerusalem,  I  was  about  mating 
an  excursion  to  St.  John's  in  the  desert ;  and  had  also  sent  a 
messenger  to  the  sheik  of  the  Bedouins,  who  was  to  provide  an 
escort  to  visit  the  Dead  Sea,  the  river  Jordan,  Jericho,  &c. 
Mounted  on  horses  we  passed  Bab-el-Khalib,  or  the  Gate  of  the 
Pilgrims,  and  soon  found  ourselves  in  the  environs,  passing  the 
cistern  where  Zadok  the  priest  and  Nathan  the  prophet  anointed 
Solomon  king  over  Israel.  It  is  dug  in  the  rock,  the  same  as 
the  pools  of  Solomon.  We  next  passed  the  tombs  of  the  Mac- 
cabees, situated  on  a  lofty  hill  to  the  right,  and  in  two  hours' 

9 


130  THE  HOLY  SEPULCHRE. 

travel,  over  rocks  and  stones,  hill  and  valley,  we  passed  through 
the  village  where  the  convent  stands  erected  on  the  spot  where 
John  the  Baptist  was  born.  We  proceeded  much  further,  pene- 
trating the  desert  where  he  existed  in  the  wilderness  forty  days 
upon  locusts  and  wild  honey.  Some  parts  of  this  excursion  we 
found  indeed  gloomy,  without  any  vegetation,  but  in  others 
the  groves  of  olives  situated  upon  terraces,  with  the  cultivation 
of  the  grape,  forming  hanging  gardens,  presented  a  striking 
contrast.  Near  one  of  these  olive  groves,  from  which  it  is 
asserted  the  cross  of  Christ  was  taken,  a  convent  has  been  founded 
in  commemoration.  It  was  dark  when  we  returned ;  the  gates 
of  the  city  were  closed,  but  having  employed  the  Janizary  of 
the  English  consul  to  await  our  return,  we  were  permitted  to 
enter. 

Space  did  not  permit  me  in  my  last  to  speak  of  that  which 
interests  Christians  most,  viz.  the  Holy  Sepulchre  and  Mount 
Calvary.  I  visited  the  church  the  first  time  alone,  preferring  to 
pay  my  devotions  at  the  shrine  of  our  blessed  Redeemer  without 
annoyance.  The  access  is  by  a  narrow  avenue,  from  its  being 
so  blocked  up  with  buildings,  and  there  is  only  one  entrance. 
Over  the  doorway  is  sculptured  the  triumphal  entrance  of  our 
Saviour  into  Jerusalem,  and  to  the  left  is  a  high  tower,  the  ancient 
belfry.  The  first  object  that  I  observed  on  entering  was  the 
slab  of  marble  which  covers  the  "  stone  of  unction,"  upon 
which  the  body  of  Christ  was  anointed  for  the  tomb,  John  xix. 
39.  A  little  further  in  I  found  the  nave  of  a  circular  form, 
surrounded  by  sixteen  pillars,  supporting  galleries,  and  covered 
by  a  dome.  In  the  centre  of  this  area  is  a  small  oblong  marble 
building,  surmounted  by  a  small  cupola  standing  upon  columns. 
This  .covers  the  supposed  site  of  our  Lord's  tomb. 

The  Oreeks,  Armenians,  and  Catholics  occupy  the  principal 
part  of  the  church,  leaving  the  Copts  but  a  small  part,  and  the 
Protestants  out  of  the  question.  The  Catholic  service  had  already 
commenced,  and  the  display  of  the  robes  of  the  priests  embroi- 
dered with  gold  and  silver,  the  goblets  and  other  vessels  of  gold, 
silver  candlesticks  with  immense  candles  burning,  the  mitres  of 
the  priests  filled  with  precious  stones,  reminded  me  impres- 
sively of  the  ceremonies  of  the  Holy  Week  at  Rome. 

On  one  side  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  upon  the  pave  was  seated 
a  group  of  women  ajad  girls,  with  white  veils  over  their  heads 


CALVARY.  131 

and  faces  partly  covered ;  also  others  from  Bethlehem,  with, 
shawls  of  a  yellow  color  and  faces  entirely  covered.  These 
were  surrounded  by  a  guard  of  Turkish  soldiers  placed  there  to 
preserve  order  ;  as,  unfortunately,  so  much  jealousy  exists  among 
the  sects,  it  becomes  necessary;  but  they  look  on  with  indiffer- 
ence and  contempt,  considering  us  infidels,  and  our  religion  a 
farce. 

The  groups  of  Greeks  and  Armenians  in  native  costume,  the 
latter  with  heads  shaved  and  red  caps,  were  scattered  around 
the  church,  and  presented  a  scene  at  once  novel  and  impressive. 
Since  the  fire  of  1808,  which  burnt  down  a  considerable  part 
of  the  church,  and  which  was  repaired  by  the  Greeks  with 
Russian  aid,  they  have  secured  the  most  important  part  of  the 
church,  and  it  is  magnificently  fitted  up,  rich  in  paintings,  images, 
and  gilding.  On  the  north  side  is  the  chapel  of  the  Apparition, 
where  our  Saviour  appeared  to  Mary  Magdalen.  There  is  another 
altar,  in  commemoration  of  the  flagellation  of  our  Saviour  (John 
xix.  1).  Near  the  entrance  of  the  church  I  ascended  a  flight  of 
steps  to  the  rock  of  Calvary,  where  Christ  was  crucified.  Here 
are  two  altars,  one  of  them  Greek  and  the  other  Catholic  ;  both 
splendidly  adorned,  the  floor  of  mosaic,  the  cross  with  the  figure 
of  Christ  suspended,  and  the  figures  of  two  women,  one  on  each 
side.  The  rear  is  filled  up  with  pictures,  small  crucifixes  of 
pear],  and  all  sorts  of  devices,  lamps  continually  burning,  and 
suspended  ostrich  eggs.  Between  two  slabs  of  marble  is  a  small 
grating,  through  which  with  a  candle  I  could  discover  the  ori- 
ginal rock,  to  all  appearance  split  by  the  earthquake  which 
followed  the  crucifixion  of  Christ.  In  another  part  is  shown  an 
altar  erected  on  the  spot  where  the  soldiers  drew  lots  for  the 
garments  of  Christ  (John  xix.  33).  Then  descending  about 
twenty  steps  into  a  rocky  court  the  spot  is  shown  where  the  Em- 
press Helena  discovered  the  true  cross. 

These  localities  have  the  appearance  of  truth,  and  if  deception 
has  been  practised  it  was  well  devised.  I  attended  the  various 
services  in  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  but  cannot  go 
further  into  detail,  for  I  must  give  you  some  idea  of  our  visit  to 
Jordan.  Being  informed  that  the  road  thither  by  Jericho  was 
quite  unsafe  without  a  strong  escort,  and  being  notorious  from 
early  antiquity  as  beset  by  robbers,  evidence  of  which  the  poor 
Levite  had  when  relieved  by  the  good  Samaritan,  we  applied  to 


132  AMONG  THE   BEDOUINS. 

the  slieik  of  the  Bedouins,  and  myself,  my  companion  and 
dragoman,  started  with  five  Arabs,  well  armed.  Passing  the 
gate  of  Mount  Zion,  and  crossing  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  and 
part  of  the  Mount  of  Olives,  in  half  an  hour's  ride  we  arrived  at 
Bethany,  the  village  where  Jesus  raised  Lazarus  from  the  dead. 
The  monks  here  pretend  to  show  the  localities  of  the  house  of 
Simon  the  leper,  of  Mary  and  Martha,  and  the  identical  fig-tree 
which  the  Lord  cursed.  We  proceeded,  winding  through  the 
mountains  and  valleys,  until  towards  night  we  discovered  in  the 
distance  the  long  line  of  black  tents,  surrounded  by  herds  of 
goats,  sheep,  camels,  and  horses.  When  we  arrived,  we  found 
the  tent  of  the  sheik  ready  to  receive  us,  but  what  a  reception 
in  the  tent  of  the  Bedouins !  Here  was  man  almost  in  his 
primitive  state.  Blankets  of  cameFs  hair  were  spread  upon  the 
ground ;  the  tent  was  inclosed  on  two  sides  only.  The  women 
and  children  seemed  excited  at  the  appearance  of  strangers, 
but  soon  recovered  from  their  surprise.  A  small  hole  was 
made  in  the  ground  in  front  of  the  tent,  some  brush  was 
brought,  a  few  grains  of  coffee  in  an  iron  ladle  were  roasted 
over  the  fire,  and  at  length  the  indispensable  pipe  and  coffee 
were  passed.  The  encampment  formed  a  circle  of  about  twenty 
tents,  and  while  the  old  men  and  the  most  influential  of  the 
tribe  formed  a  group  in  the  front  of  the  tent  of  the  sheik,  the 
women  and  children  were  employed  in  driving  all  the  animals 
within  the  inclosure  for  the  night.  Our  evening  repast  consisted 
of  fresh  bread  with  goat's  and  sheep's  milk,  after  which  we 
stretched  ourselves  upon  the  blankets,  surrounded  by  some 
fifteen  or  twenty  Bedouins,  but  not  to  sleep,  as  the  noise  of  the 
animals  and  the  crawling  of  insects  were  calculated  to  give  us  an 
early  start  in  the  morning.  After  traversing  the  mountain 
where  it  is  said  Jesus  was  tempted  by  the  devil,  and  over  hill 
and  dale,  we  at  last  arrived  at  Jericho,  which  is  entirely 
destroyed.  The  only  object  of  interest  is  the  supposed  house 
of  Zaccheus.  After  leaving  Jericho  we  proceeded  across  the 
plain  for  about  three  hours,  until  we  saw  the  trees  in  the  distance 
which  denoted  the  Jordan.  We  had  already  discovered  a  great 
deal  of  anxiety  on  the  part  of  our  Arabs  in  crossing  the 
mountains,  on  seeing  four  men  on  the  top  of  a  mountain  in  the 
distance,  and  they  remarked  that  they  had  lost  several  camels 
and  sheep,  and  had  had  one  of  their  tribe  killed,  all  of  which  we 


THE   JORDAX. — THE    DEAD    SEA.  133 

concluded  miglit  be  a  flxrce  to  extort  money  from  strangers  ;  but 
on  approaching  the  Jordan  we  discovered  a  party  emerging  from 
a  thicket  with  muskets,  and  our  Arabs  were  greatly  alarmed. 
We  were  well  armed ;  a  consultation  was  held ;  the  blessed 
stream  where  St.  John  baptized  our  Redeemer  was  in  sight ; 
we  determined  on  proceeding  at  all  hazards,  and  finally  had  the 
satisfaction  of  bathing  in  the  stream  and  procuring  some  bottles 
of  the  water.  The  suspected  party  finally  came  up,  and  proved 
to  be  friendly  Arabs. 

The  Jordan  runs  very  rapidly ;  the  banks  are  covered  with 
trees  and  verdure,  and  present  a  very  pretty  appearance.  I 
was  struck  with  wonder  and  surprise  when  I  reflected  how  in 
ancient  times  the  shores  of  the  Jordan  were  crowded  with  multi- 
tudes of  human  beings,  while  now  not  a  habitation  or  a  civilized 
being  is  to  be  found  upon  its  banks  ;  the  only  occupants  that  I 
saw  were  wolves  and  gazelles. 

After  leaving  the  Jordan  we  passed  over  a  sandy  plain  until 
we  arrived  upon  the  shores  of  the  Dead  Sea,  which  is  entitled 
to  its  name,  it  being  unruffled,  the  water  very  heavy,  and  conse- 
quently very  buoyant.  I  threw  in  several  logs  of  wood,  which 
floated  like  corks  upon  the  surface.  After  washing  my  hands 
they  were  covered  with  an  oily  and  scaly  substance.  The  flavor 
of  the  water  is  extremely  salt  and  bitter.  It  is  contended  by 
some  that  fish  do  not  exist  in  it.  I  did  not  discover  any  shells 
or  anything  to  indicate  their  existence.  Others  contend  that 
fish  are  found,  but  of  a  poisonous  quality. 

It  was  not  my  lot  to  discover  any  remains  of  the  lost  cities  of 
Sodom  and  Gomorrah.  From  the  Dead  Sea  we  proceeded 
across  the  limestone  mountains  to  Mount  Saba,  where  there  is 
a  Grreek  convent,  and  arrived  just  at  night  at  this  extraordinary 
location,  which  is  situated  among  rocky  cliffs  and  ledges,  in  the 
midst  of  a  gloomy  mountain  occupied  only  by  the  Bedouins. 
On  knocking  at  the  gate  of  this  vast  monastery,  fortified  by 
nature  and  art,  and  asking  admission  as  pilgrims  and  Christians, 
we  were  welcomed  in ;  and  our  dragoman  being  a  Greek,  we 
were  received  with  all  hospitality,  and  enjoyed  the  repose  we  so 
much  needed.  We  here  found  the  monks  very  polite  in  show- 
ing us  all  the  contents  of  the  convent.  They  told  us  that  in 
the  middle  ages  St.  Saba,  with  many  followers,  occupied  the 
caves  and  ledges  of  the  rocks  which  are  to  be  found  in  the 


134  BETHLEHEM, 

vicinity,  and  that  lie  had  a  dream,  in  which  he  was  directed  by 
an  angel  to  found  a  convent  on  this  spot,  which  was  finally 
accomplished.  They  showed  us  the  ancient  chapel  in  the  rock, 
where  were  exhibited  the  skulls  of  all  the  monks  slain  in  three 
attacks  by  the  Turks.  One  of  their  number  was  buried  the 
morning  we  left,  having  been  there  forty  years,  dying  at  the  age 
of  ninety. 

On  leaving  Mount  Saba,  we  directed  our  course  for  Bethle- 
hem, and  after  a  ride  of  three  hours  over  the  mountain,  we 
approached  the  town  by  a  gradual  ascent  along  the  side  of  a 
well  cultivated  hill,  walled  up  amphitheatre-like.  On  entering 
the  convent  erected  over  the  place  of  nativity  of  our  Saviour, 
we  discovered  the  remains  of  a  church  founded  by  the  empress 
Helena.  Taking  lights,  we  followed  one  of  the  priests  down  a 
flight  of  steps,  visiting  several  altars  consecrated  to  St.  Gerolomi 
and  others,  and  finally  came  to  a  chamber,  in  which  place  it  is 
said  Jesus  was  born.  The  chamber  is  from  twenty-five  to  thirty 
feet  long,  and  about  fifteen  broad,  illuminated  by  fifty  hanging 
lamps.  At  the  extreme  end  is  shown  the  ancient  fireplace  of 
the  house  of  the  Virgin  ;  upon  the  marble  hearth  is  a  plate  of 
gold  beset  with  precious  stones.  On  the  other  side,  in  a  sort  of 
grotto  in  the  rock,  is  represented  a  manger,  the  place  being  said 
to  be  the  identical  spot  where  the  babe  of  Bethlehem  was  laid. 
The  chamber  is  adorned  with  paintings  representing  the  virgin 
and  the  infant,  and  lamps  are  continually  burning. 

After  quitting  this  interesting  spot,  we  pursued  our  course  to 
Jerusalem,  where  we  soon  arrived,  after  an  absence  of  three 
days ;  and  glad  I  was  to  return,  having  suffered  exceedingly 
with  my  eyes  from  the  extreme  heat  and  glare  of  the  sun,  in 
crossing  the  limestone  mountains.  The  weakness  of  my  sight 
confined  me  to  the  house  for  two  days,  whereby  I  was  able  only 
to  receive  the  vendors  of  beads  and  crucifixes. 

On  our  route  from  Jerusalem  to  Jaffa,  we  took  refuge  at  the 
house  of  our  vice-consul,  at  Eamlah,  who  entertained  that  even- 
ing all  the  suite  of  the  Pasha  of  Jerusalem,  on  their  return 
from  Gaza,  as  also  the  sheiks  of  several  tribes  of  Bedouins;  and 
it  was  an  amusing  sight  to  see  some  twenty  persons  squatted  on 
the  low  divan,  with  their  long  pipes,  all  in  Turkish  costume, 
with  long  black  beards  and  turbans,  and  occasionally  a  venera- 
ble Turk  with  his  beard  as  white  as  snow.      When  dinner  was 


RAMLAH.  135 

announced,  five  small  tables,  about  a  foot  and  a  half  in  height, 
were  placed  upon  the  floor,  with  servers  on  each  ;  when  four 
persons  squatting  around  each,  commenced  the  repast,  eating  in 
silence,  without  the  use  of  forks,  rising  when  satisfied,  and 
washing  their  hands,  which  is  done  both  before  and  after  eating, 
the  master  of  the  house  dipping  his  fingers  first  in  the  dish  at 
table,  and  being  the  last  to  leave  the  table,  following  the  rules 
of  etiquette ;  all  returning  upon  the  divan,  and  resuming  their 
favorite  chibouque  and  cup  of  coffee. 

We  are  now  stopping  in  the  Saba  convent,  and  waiting  an 
opportunity  to  go  to  Alexandria ;  expecting  the  arrival  of  a 
schooner  to-morrow,  which  is  t]\e  only  communication.  This 
town  is  the  ancient  Joppa  spoken  of  in  Scripture,  2d  Chron. 
ii.  16 ;  Acts  ix.  36  and  42,  and  is  situated  upon  an  eminence 
overhanging  the  sea.  The  houses  rise  in  terraces  from  the 
water's  edge,  and  present  a  singular  appearance  from  the  sea. 
It  is  like  a  town  of  stairs,  the  streets  paved  in  steps,  owing  to 
the  inequality  of  the  ground.  This  port  is  small,  and  the  rocks 
dangerous.  The  view  from  the  roofs  of  the  houses  is  splendid. 
The  surf  comes  to  an  immease  height  to-da}^,  having  had  a 
strong  north  wind.  The  environs  are  beautiful,  particularly  the 
orange  groves,  which  abound,  extending  all  over  the  plains  of 
Sharon,  so  celebrated  in  Scripture  for  their  fertility,  and  the 
beautiful  flowers  that  grow  spontaneously  from  the  soil. 


XXXVI. 


Valetta,  Island  of  Malta,  3fay  14,  1842. 
My  only  means  of  passage  from  Jaffa  to  Alexandria,  where  I 
wished  to  take  the  steamer  for  this  island,  was  on  board  of  a 
crazy  old  brig,  laden  with  bones  for  the  manufacture  of  buttons. 
The  captain  and  his  wife  were  Greeks,  and  occupied  the  cabin, 
infested  with  vermin.  My  companion  preferred  the  deck.  I 
spread  my  Turkish  rug  in  the  yawl-boat,  and  covered  it  with  the 
awning  of  our  tent,  and  resigned  myself  for  a  four  days'  trip. 
Our  servants  succeeded  in  preparing  our  meals,  although  sur- 
rounded by  fifteen  or  twenty  Arabs,  Turks,  and  Armenians, 
most  of  them  dirty-looking  fellows.  Some  of  them  were  pil- 
grims from  Jerusalem,     Entering  the  harbor  of  Alexandria  an 


136  IN   QUARANTINE. 

Egyptian  officer,  who  spoke  French,  approached  us  in  his  boat, 
but  without  coming  in  contact.  He  took  our  bill  of  health  in  a 
tin  box  to  be  fumigated,  and  then  condemned  us  to  a  quarantine 
of  ten  days.  This  was  annoying  and  unexpected ;  but  poor  Tray 
was  found  in  bad  company,  and  we  marched  off  to  the  quaran- 
tine prisons,  where,  separated  from  others  by  iron  bars  and  rail- 
ings, to  avoid  plague-contagion,  we  awaited  provisions  from  out- 
side. Our  apartments  consisted  of  two  rooms,  without  furniture, 
and  covered  with  dust.  We  applied  to  our  consul  for  supplies 
and  made  remonstrances,  as  the  plague  did  not  actually  exist 
where  we  came  from,  but  persons  were  dying  from  the  disease 
in  our  vicinity,  and  the  guard  were  obliged  to  keep  our  servants 
from  communication  with  infected  subjects,  which  might  jeopar- 
dize our  lives.  Our  arms  were  demanded  of  us,  which  we  were 
unwilling  to  give  up.  To  our  great  joy,  through  the  united 
action  of  the  Prussian  and  American  consuls,  we  were  liberated 
after  two  days'  incarceration  in  this  miserable  place.  What  a 
relief  it  was  to  find  a  decent  hotel,  a  fair  table,  a  comfortable 
bed,  clean  sheets,  and  tolerably  free  from  fleas  and  other  vermin, 
after  the  fatigue  and  inconvenience  of  Nile  and  desert  travel, 
sleeping  under  tents,  in  mud  huts,  and  subjected  to  a  thousand 
annoyances,  notwithstanding  which  my  health  has  improved. 
But  the  strong  glare  of  light,  and  reflection  of  the  sun's  rays 
upon  the  sand,  if  it  had  not  produced  ophthalmia,  had  so  affected 
my  eyes  that  I  had  to  abandon  reading  and  writing  for  some 
time.  Fortunately  a  pair  of  green  goggles,  which  I  had  used 
among  the  ice  mountains  of  Switzerland,  came  apropos.  I 
remained  a  few  days  at  Alexandria,  and  embarked  for  this  island 
in  the  steamer  Great  Liverpool,  bearing  the  Oriental  mail  and 
passengers.  The  accommodations  are  of  a  superior  character. 
Those  who  land  here  must  undergo  a  quarantine  of  twenty-one 
days.  This  being  the  third  annoyance  of  the  kind,  I  was  loth  to 
submit,  but  comfortable  provision  being  made  under  British  rule, 
and  the  desire  to  visit  the  island  in  detail,  and  then  proceed  to 
Spain,  made  the  sacrifice  compulsory.  This  ridiculous  farce 
will  in  time  be  modified  or  abandoned.  Our  ship  came  in  qua- 
rantine harbor  without  communication  with  the  shore,  other  than 
through  the  fumigating  process. 

We  were  taken  in  a  boat,  keeping  at  a  respectful  distance  from 
the  oarsmen,  and  when  at  the  station  the  payment  of  coin  was 


VALETTA.  137 

made  bj  throwing  it  in  a  bucket  of  water.  Our  quarters  were 
comfortable,  the  servants  attentive,  the  restaurant  was  weli 
provided.  We  could  receive  and  pay  visits  within  the  ward, 
but  only  in  the  presence  of  the  guards,  and  without  touching 
each  other,  being  kept  at  the  length  of  the  guardiano's  stick. 
The  island  of  Malta  lies  sixty  miles  east  of  Sicily ;  it  is  twenty 
miles  in  length,  twelve  in  breadth,  and  sixty  in  circumference. 
The  capital,  Valetta,  was  built  by  the  grand  master  in  1566 ; 
it  has  houses  of  cut  stone,  two  and  three  stories  high,  with  balco- 
nies; rises  to  a  considerable  height  like  a  town  of  stairs, 
and  is  well  paved  and  very  clean,  under  English  military  rule. 
The  strong  glare  of  light  and  dust  from  pulverized  stone  is  bad 
for  the  eyes.  It  has  many  edifices  and  public  buildings  full  of 
interest.  The  ancient  palace  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John,  now  the 
residence  of  the  governor,  is  interesting  for  its  works  of  art  and 
relics  taken  in  the  siege  of  Rhodes.  The  Church  of  St.  John,  or 
cathedral,  is  a  gem.  Even  after  one  has  seen  most  of  the  promi- 
nent churches  of  Italy,  much  of  merit  will  be  found  in  this  edi- 
fice. The  mosaic  pave  is  of  precious  marble,  and  the  epitaphs 
of  the  members  of  the  order  are  intensely  interesting.  The  city 
is  two  and  a  half  miles  in  circumference.  The  fortifications  are 
on  an  enormous  scale,  and  considered  impregnable.  The  har- 
bors are  small  but  safe,  containing  many  frigates  and  other  naval 
vessels  at  anchor.  The  promenade  on  the  bastions  gives  an 
extended  view. 

Although,  properly  speaking,  the  island  is  not  much  more 
than  a  barren  rock,  it  has  become,  through  tlie  industry  and  per- 
severance of  its  occupants  exceedingly  fertile  and  well  cultivated. 
The  hills  and  rising  grounds  are  inclosed  by  walls,  to  prevent  the 
earth  washing  away,  and  form  a  succession  of  terraces. 

They  excavate  and  export  cut  stone,  for  flagging,  in  large 
quantities,  and  with  the  return  vessels  bring  soil,  which,  mixed 
with  pulverized  stone,  is  made  productive.  I  have  made  the 
tour  of  the  island  on  horseback,  and  found  the  weather  hot ;  in 
many  places  they  had  commenced  harvesting. 

My  servant  and  a  running  guide  accompanied  me  to  the 
ancient  city  of  Citta  Vecchia.  After  riding  five  miles  over  a 
dusty  but  magnificent  road,  in  many  places  cut  through  the  solid 
rock,  and  admiring  the  small  patches  of  vegetation,  we  came  to 
the  palace  and  gardens  of  San  Antonio.     Here  I  found  a  mix- 


138  CITTA   VECCHIA. 

ture  of  English  and  African  trees,  almonds,  roses  in  profusion, 
and  loquats,  a  fruit  of  a  golden  color,  of  an  acid  taste,  intro- 
duced from  China,  and  very  refreshing  on  a  dusty  road.  We 
then  rode  to  Citta  Yecchia ;  we  were  considerably  annoyed  by 
beggars.  "VVe  looked  at  the  old  church,  containing  some  beautiful 
work  in  bronze  and  marble,  with  paintings  and  frescos  of  St. 
Paul's  shipwreck.  The  relics  of  stately  buildings,  rich  in  archi- 
tecture, are  visible  in  all  directions.  Not  far  distant  we  were 
shown  a  church  under  which  was  the  cave  where  St.  Paul 
and  St.  Luke  resided  for  three  months.  In  the  neighborhood 
are  found  the  catacombs.  Descending  a  staircase  we  found  a 
gallery,  with  branches  in  all  directions,  forming  quite  a  laby- 
rinth. 

The  sides  contain  tombs  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  without 
regular  order,  but  with  considerable  taste.  There  are  several 
halls,  galleries,  and  places  for  sacrifices.  On  the  floor  was  one 
circular  block,  about  four  feet  in  diameter,  flat  on  the  top,  with  a 
low  edge  around  it.  Above  are  seen  funnels  and  chimneys  lead- 
ing outside.  The  ancient  Phoenicians  burnt  offerings  to  the 
element  of  fire  on  the  occasion  of  every  tenant  deposited  in  the 
tomb.  In  another  direction  we  visited  a  village  where  the  poor 
people  voluntarily  tax  themselves  in  erecting  a  commodious 
church  over  and  around  the  old  one.  They  have  been  at  work 
nine  years,  and  require  five  more  to  accomplish  it. 

On  Sundays  the  mechanics  and  laborers  are  all  sure  to  turn 
out  and  work.  When  the  new  edifice  is  finished,  the  old  one 
will  be  torn  down  and  taken  out.  We  passed  through  several 
villages  containing  fine  churches,  clean  and  comfortable  houses, 
notwithstanding  the  poverty  of  the  inhabitants.  They  are 
strong  Catholics,  and  speak  the  Maltese  dialect,  a  mixture  of 
Arabic  and  Italian.  The  caleshe,  or  vehicle  of  the  country,  has 
three  windows,  one  pair  of  wheels,  and  the  driver  runs  beside 
the  horse.  St.  Paul's  Bay  is  quite  prominent ;  the  spot  where 
he  landed  has  a  chapel  dedicated  to  him. 

We  passed  over  some  high  hills  to  obtain  a  view  of  Mellicha, 
where  the  devoted  make  their  pilgrimage. 

In  the  neighborhood  are  seen  caves  in  the  rock,  once  inha- 
bited. The  Grotto  of  Calypso  was  pointed  out  by  our  guide  ; 
we  found  a  man  and  his  wife  in  it,  with  a  hand-loom,  a  few 
cooking  utensils,  a  few  old  clothes,  and  a  couple  of  chairs,  which 


GIBRALTAR.  139 

was  all  their  stock ;  a  small  present  made  them  quite  happy. 
They  had,  very  naturally,  never  heard  of  Calypso. 

They  had  a  beautiful  valley  lying  below  them,  with  a  deep 
bay  and  the  island  of  Gozo  in  the  distance.  There  is  much  to 
be  said  and  described  in  and  about  the  island,  but  time  does  not 
permit,  as  I  embark  for  Spain. 


SUMMER  TRIP,    1842. 

The  steamer  Alecto  brought  me  from  Malta  to  Gibraltar ; 
we  coasted  along  the  African  shore,  sighting  Algiers,  with  its 
high  walls  and  white- washed  buildings,  crowned  by  its  citadel. 
I  was  struck  with  awe  and  admiration  at  the  sight  of  the 
renowned  rock  of  Gibraltar,  whose  defences  entitle  it  to  be 
called  the  key  of  the  Mediterranean.  I  climbed  up  zigzag  roads 
and  stairways,  and  was  shown  immense  galleries  excavated  out 
of  the  solid  rock,  which  terminate  in  the  battery  called  "  St. 
George's  Hall."  Higher  up,  at  the  height  of  thirteen  hundred 
feet,  is  the  rock  gun.  The  number  of  cannon  employed  in  all 
the  general  defences  is  said  to  be  eight  hundred.  On  the  sum- 
mit, or  Telegraph  Hill,  we  partook  of  refreshments,  and  looking 
over  a  register  kept  for  visitors,  I  was  amused  at  their  comments: 
"  No  monkeys  visible  to-day."  "  Where  are  all  the  monkeys?" 
"  Lots  of  monkeys  to-day."  I  looked  over  the  parapet  wall, 
and,  sure  enough,  the  fine  weather  had  brought  out  thirty-nine 
or  forty,  who  were  scrambling  and  chattering  among  the 
branches  of  the  scrub  trees.  It  is  the  only  spot  in  Europe 
where  they  are  found ;  heavy  penalties  prevent  killing  them, 
but  the  dogs  sometimes  destroy  them  when  they  descend  to  rob 
the  gardens  below.  St.  Michael's  Cave  is  curious  for  its  stalac- 
tites, and  came  in  as  an  additional  attraction.  The  view  from 
the  summit  over  the  straits  and  the  African  coast,  the  Spanish 
town  of  Algesiras,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay,  the  neutral 
ground,  the  walled  and  fortified  city  below,  was  of  the  most 
enjoyable  character.  The  alemedas,  or  promenades,  are  well 
laid  out,  and  planted  with  trees  and  flowers,  which  give  them  a 
cheerful  appearance.  The  birthday  of  Queen  Victoria  was  the 
occasion  of  grand  demonstrations  on  shore  and  on  shipboard. 
At  mid-day  the  roar  of  cannons  from  the  vessels  of  war,  in 


140  MALAGA. 

wliich  our  own  sliip  Brandjwine  took  part,  and  the  discharge  of 
thirtj-two  pounders  from  the  rock  galleries,  produced  such  a 
concussion  that  my  inkstand  trembled  while  I  wrote.  The 
night  illumination  of  the  eighty-four  gun-ship  Formidable,  and 
others,  was  mao"nificent. 

The  tents  and  camp  of  the  General,  covered  with  devices  and 
transparencies,  produced  a  fine  effect,  and  the  bursting  of  rockets 
lighted  up  the  countenances  of  the  dancing  multitude  upon  the 
Alemeda. 

Eight  hours'  steaming  took  me  to  Malaga,  just  in  time  for  the 
festival  of  Corpus  Christi.  Our  passengers  were  mostly  Moors 
in  Arab  dress,  Spaniards  with  steeple-crowned  hats  and  fantastic 
round  jackets,  contrabandists  in  embroidered  boots  and  leggings, 
provided  with  goods  for  their  traffic.  A  grand  procession,  mili- 
tary and  civic,  priests,  men,  and  boys  with  lighted  candles,  pre- 
ceded by  the  crucifix,  passed  through  the  narrow  streets,  and 
made  a  long  circuit.  The  balconies  covered  with  flags  and 
drapery  of  gay  colors,  and  filled  with  the  beautiful  senoritas  of 
the  true  Andalusian  type,  could  not  help  but  add  to  the  attrac- 
tion. Groups  of  fascinating  creatures  with  black  lace  mantillas, 
fan  in  hand,  giving  it  that  peculiar  twirl  belonging  to  the  race, 
were  kneeling  upon  the  rugs  on  the  cathedral  pave,  and  casting 
their  captivating  glances  (perhaps  unconsciously)  upon  the  pass- 
ing strangers.  My  fellow-traveller,  the  Spanish  Consul  from 
Gibraltar,  was  en  route  for  Grenada  ;  he  had  opposed  the  contra- 
band trade,  and  was  afraid  of  an  attack. 

Our  miserable  diligence  was  drawn  by  eight  mules  with  rope 
traces ;  the  driver  guides  the  wheel  mules  with  nose-straps  only, 
without  bits,  and  at  times  jumps  down  beside  them,  whipping 
up  and  crying  out  lustily ;  so  they  dash  along  the  rugged  roads 
and  on  the  banks  of  precipices  at  the  imminent  risk  of  one's 
life. 

The  first  venta  had  flat  stone  floor,  a  rude  table  with  benches, 
and  a  poor  breakfast.  The  chambers  were  bare  walls,  no  chairs, 
no  bedstead ;  the  people  slept  upon  mats  with  no  notion  of  com- 
fort. The  country  has  been  disturbed  by  civil  wars  for  the 
past  seven  years.  Assassinations  are  frequent,  caused  by  politi- 
cal intrigue,  or  love  affairs.  The  first  night  we  found  ourselves 
at  the  town  of  Loza,  situated  in  a  picturesque  country,  in  the 
midst  of  luxurious  groves  and  gardens  on  the  south  side  of  a 


THE   ALIIAMBRA    HILL.  141 

rocky  gorge,  through  which  a  small  river  forces  its  way  after 
passing  the  rich  valley  of  Grenada.  The  place  is  celebrated  for 
two  sieges  under  Ferdinandand  Isabella.,  in  1487,  and  was  taken, 
it  is  asserted,  through  the  cowardice  of  Bobadil.  Our  accommo- 
dations had  improved. 

We  passed  the  Duke  of  Wellington's  estate,  given  for  services 
during  the  Peninsular  War ;  it  is  a  pretty  vega,  or  valley,  with 
a  village  of  cottages.  Not  far  from  this  place  an  English  party 
bad  been  robbed.  Three  horsemen,  with  long  carabines,  a  brace 
of  pistols,  and  dirks  each,  presented  themselves  and  asked  them 
politely  to  get  out  and  prostrate  themselves  npon  their  faces, 
while  one  of  the  number  stood  guard  until  the  luggage  was  ran- 
sacked. They  were  then  offered  some  of  their  own  cigars,  a 
drink  of  aguardiente,  and  left  in  the  usual  gallant  manner — 
"  Vaya  con  Dios.^^  Some  eight  miles  from  Grenada,  we  passed 
the  small  walled  town  of  Santa  Fe,  built  by  Ferdinand  during 
the  siege  of  Grenada. 

We  had  made  the  seventy-six  miles  from  Malaga,  and  now 
saw  the  magnificent  valley  for  miles  in  extent,  the  snow-capped 
mountains  of  the  Sierra  IS'evada,  with  the  rivers  Dano  and 
Genii  forcing  their  passages  out  of  them.  Once  Grenada  was 
the  pride  and  glory  of  the  Moors ;  now  it  is  the  admiration  of 
every  traveller. 

We  found  a  quiet  retreat  upon  the  summit  of  the  Alhambra ' 
hill,  near  a  lofty  tower  commanding  an  extensive  view  of  the 
city  below.  The  unfinished  palace  of  Charles  V.,  and  the 
palace  of  the  Moorish  sovereigns  stood  hard  by.  A  description 
of  the  Alhambra,  with  its  beautiful  architecture,  the  court  of  the 
lions,  its  marble-paved  halls,  its  arabesque  walls  and  ceilings, 
and  the  many  objects  of  admiration,  I  shall  not  attempt  to 
describe.  The  cathedral,  containing  the  monuments  of  Ferdi- 
nand and  Isabella,  the  archduke  Philip  and  his  wife  Joanna,  has 
many  attractions.  The  church  of  San  Juan  de  Dios  is  rich  in 
marble.  The  road  to  Cordova,  a  distance  of  eighty-four  miles, 
we  made  on  muleback,  there  being  no  carriage  roads.  The  first 
night  we  slept  in  a  venta,  upon  a  brick  floor,  among  horses, 
mules,  drivers,  and  others  of  bandit  appearance.  We  were 
almost  devoured  by  fleas ;  there  were  no  beds  or  other  accom- 
modations. I  find  it  worse,  if  possible,  than  a  Turkish  khan. 
We  procured  here  an  escort  through  the  wild  heath  and  across 


142  CORDOVA. 

the  mountain  paths,  the  roads  being  infested  with  robbers.  Our 
guides  were  old  cut-throats,  and  were  considered  the  safest,  as 
they  were  to  be  well  paid  if  they  piloted  us  through  in  safety ; 
they  knew  all  the  haunts  of  the  bandits.  At  Alcala-el-Real  we 
found  a  posada  well  fitted  up,  and  the  landlady  reminded  me  of 
a  Dutch  housewife  for  cleanliness,  which  we  were  prepared  to 
appreciate. 

We  made  a  tarry  at  Byena,  and  proceeded  then  to  Cordova, 
and  were  rejoiced  to  arrive,  as  it  is  not  pleasant  to  grasp  one's 
pistol  in  the  night  at  the  sound  of  some  slight  noise  in  the  bush, 
not  knowing  what  moment  you  may  be  pounced  upon. 

Passing  through  some  of  the  small  villages,  the  people  looked 
so  wretched  one  could  almost  excuse  an  attack.  In  other  portions 
of  the  country  the  peasants  looked  well,  returning  from  the 
fields  of  ripened  grain.  We  escaped  with  one  arrest,  only,  from 
highwaymen.  One  fine-looking,  but  swarthy,  heavy-whiskered 
fellow,  clad  in  velvet,  with  knee-breeches  and  leather-strapped 
leggings,  pointed  hat  and  feather,  long  carabine,  and  pistols  in 
his  belt,  who  carried  a  whistle  to  call  his  comrades,  descended 
slowly  from  a  craggy  eminence,  greeted  our  guides,  and  made 
his  demand,  which  being  extremely  moderate  we  readily 
granted,  and  passed  on  without  further  molestation. 

A  part  of  the  journey  our  guide  suggested  riding  by  night, 
and  lying  by  during  the  day,  thereby  escaping  the  heat,  and 
dodging  the  highwaymen.  We  started  at  six  p.m.  and  halted  at 
seven  a.m.,  partook  of  a  miserable  breakfast,  stretched  our  mat- 
tresses upon  a  cement  floor,  encircled  with  double  streaks  of  olive 
oil  to  keep  the  fleas  from  jumping  across,  closed  the  shutters  to 
darken  the  room,  and  reposed  until  the  hour  for  dinner,  after 
which  mounted  our  mules  again,  Cordova  is  dull  and  lifeless, 
a  large  city  in  decay ;  the  greatest  curiosity  is  the  Moorish 
mosque  of  eight  hundred  and  thirty  four  columns,  now  converted 
into  a  Catholic  church.  Approaching  the  city  the  country  is 
well  cultivated,  and  the  gardens  of  pomegranates  in  blossom  were 
quite  pretty.  How  delightful  it  is  for  the  traveller,  while  quite 
alone  and  exposed  to  danger,  to  meet  with  a  familiar  face.  A 
singular  rencontre  took  place  near  Cordova.  We  had  aban- 
doned our  mule  and  taken  the  diligence,  when  we  were  met  by 
a  vehicle  escorted  by  gens-d'armes,  who  inquired  if  we  had  been 
interrupted  by  bandits,  when  to  my  surprise  out  jumped  a  French- 


CATHEDRAL   OF   SEVILLE.  143 

man,  whom  I  had  last  met  among  the  ruins  of  Thebes  and  Karnak. 
"Bonjour,  Monsieur.  D'ou  venez  vous  ?  Ou  allez  vous?"  he 
cried  out.  I  had  scarcely  time  to  greet  him  and  reply,  when  off 
dashed  our  animals,  and  I  have  seen  him  perhaps  for  the  last 
time.  From  Cordova  I  came  to  Seville,  rejoiced  to  find  com- 
fortable quarters,  get  a  bath,  and  put  myself  in  the  hands  of  il 
barbiero  di  Sevilla.  The  services  of  Figaro  were  only  required 
in  hair-cropping,  as  the  natural  Turkish  and  Arab  eight  months 
growth  of  beard  could  be  still  worn  with  impunity,  but  once  in 
England  the  heavy  crop  must  be  harvested,  or  the  little  urchins 
will  set  up  a  cry. 

While  in  Egypt  an  anecdote  was  related  of  an  old  man  who 
had  been  impressed  in  the  army  from  his  native  village.  Mehe- 
met  Ali  had  adopted  the  custom  of  shaving  the  soldiery.  It  was 
found  he  had  passed  the  age  for  service,  and  was  told  he  might 
go:  "Yes,"  he  rephed,  "go,  where  shall  I  go?"  "To  your  vil- 
lage," was  the  answer.  "  The  boys  and  girls  of  my  village  will 
hoot  at  me,"  he  exclaimed,  "give  me  back  my  beard  or  allow 
me  to  remain  until  it  grows."  Such  is  the  value  of  a  beard  in 
oriental  countries.  The  next  acquisition  was  a  valet  de  place, 
whose  duty  is  to  point  out  all  the  remarkable  sights  of  the  city, 
which,  when  Spain  possessed  America,  was  considered  the  wealth- 
iest of  the  realm. 

The  cathedral  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Spain,  of  the  Moro-Gothic 
style ;  its  stained  glass  historical  windows,  and  its  sacristy  and 
other  decorations  demand  attention.  The  secret  councils  of  the 
Inquisition  were  held  there.  From  the  summit  of  la  Giralda, 
the  tower  built  by  the  Moors,  two  hundred  and  fifty  years  before, 
and  taken  by  king  Ferdinand,  at  a  height  of  two  hundred  and 
sixty-four  feet,  one  has  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  suburbs, 
lying  upon  the  banks  of  the  Guadalquiver.  The  Alcazar,  or 
Moorish  palace,  built  fifty  years  before  the  conquest  of  Seville, 
with  its  arabesque  and  beautiful  colored  ceilings,  bears  resem- 
blance to  the  Alhambra  of  Granada.  Several  days  were  passed 
pleasantly  and  agreeably  in  the  old  city.  I  gazed  at  its  fine 
Murillo  paintings,  strolled  upon  its  Alemedas,  plucked  its  deli- 
cious oranges  in  shady  gardens,  peeped  into  its  theatres,  saw  its 
tobacco  factory,  a  monopoly  in  Spain,  where  two  thousand  women 
and  six  hundred  men  are  employed  making  cigars  and  snuff.  I 
then  came  down  the  river  to  the  seaport  of  Cadiz.     The  banks  of 


144:  CADIZ. 

the  stream  are  low  ;  large  droves  of  cattle  were  seen  grazing — 
and  many  orange  and  lemon  groves.  We  passed  St.  Mary's  with 
Xeres  in  the  background ;  the  latter  is  celebrated  for  its  sherry 
wine.  Cadiz,  while  Spain  was  in  possession  of  her  American 
colonies,  ranked  next  in  wealth  to  Seville,  but  has  declined  not- 
withstanding its  free  port.  The  houses  are  lofty,  spacious,  well- 
built;  the  streets  narrow,  to  protect  from  the  sun's  rays; 
they  arc  well-paved,  clean,  and  pretty.  The  ramparts  are 
planted  with  rows  of  trees  overlooking  the  park.  The  large 
squares  of  San  Antonio  and  Constitucion,  in  the  centre  of  the 
city,  are  where  ices,  love,  and  scandal  occupy  the  fair  sex  until 
midnight.  The  steamer  Royal  Tar  brought  me  to  Lisbon,  the 
Portuguese  capital.  Steaming  up  the  broad  river  Tagus,  the 
first  coup  d'oeil  of  the  city,  with  its  long  quays,  public  build- 
ings, and  handsome  streets  upon  its  banks,  is  prepossessing, 
but  in  climbing  its  precipitous  hills,  built  even  to  the  summit, 
one  finds  many  narrow  and  filthy  streets  and  lanes,  offensive 
both  to  the  eye  and  olfactories. 

The  sights  of  the  city  were  done  up  with  usual  assiduity.  The 
Royal  Palace,  yet  unfinished,  occupied  by  Don  Miguel  during 
his  short  sway,  the  prominent  churches  of  the  city,  remarkable 
for  works  of  art,  the  Alemeda,  the  great  opera  house,  and  the 
gigantic  aqueduct  of  the  cit}^,  all  received  their  share  of  attention. 

We  drove  to  Cintra,  the  royal  country  residence,  which  was 
some  three  or  four  hours'  distance.  Our  party  mounted  donkeys, 
whose  heads  were  dressed  with  flowers  by  their  drivers,  and  off 
we  started  for  the  Moorish  castle,  which  is  now  in  course  of  repa- 
ration, situated  upon  a  precipitous  height,  affording  a  fine  view. 
The  vineyards  of  Collares  were  visited,  and  their  products  tested.. 
The  cork-wood  forests  where  the  trees  had  been  stripped  of  their 
bark  were  examined.  The  waters  of  the  iron  spring  were  not  as 
acceptable  as  delicious  oranges  from  the  hands  of  a  Portuguese 
beauty,  whose  charms  were  not  heightened  by  her  white  head- 
handkerchief  and  capuchin  cloak,  comparing  unfavorably  with 
the  black  mantilla  and  beautiful  eyes  of  the  Andalusians.  We 
visited  the  palace,  met  the  king,  mounted  on  a  beautiful  bay 
horse,  who  bowed  politely  as  he  galloped  over  the  lawn.  The 
queen  was  plainly  clad,  a  fleshy  lady,  riding  upon  a  donkey,  her 
infant  in  a  pannier  upon  a  second,  accompanied  by  a  train  of 
liveried  servants,  altogether  a  novel  cortege. 


OVER  THE   STATES.  145 

The  excursion  was  a  delightful  one.  I  embarked  for  England, 
sighting  Oporto,  touching  at  Vigo,  and  landed  at  Southampton. 
I  went  to  London,  thence  to  Liverpool,  crossed  over  to  Ireland, 
visited  Dublin,  Newry,  and  Belfast ;  crossed  again  from  Donag- 
hadee  to  Portpatrick  in  Scotland  ;  went  along  the  coast  to 
Ayrshire,  upon  the  banks  of  the  Doon,  to  the  former  thatched 
cottage  of  the  poet  Burns,  thence  up  to  Greenock,  and  Glasgow, 
and  across  by  rail  to  Edinburgh. 

I  shall  return  by  another  route  to  Liverpool,  and  embark  for 
the  United  States,  when  I  can  commune  verbally  about  the  mag- 
nificent countries  passed  through. 


EXPLANATORY  NOTES. 

Finding  that  this  work  would  be  too  voluminous  for  the 
publication  of  letters  and  extracts  from  journals,  from  1842  to 
1847,  I  have  concluded  to  omit  almost  all  correspondence, 
excepting  what  relates  to  European,  Asiatic,  African,  Soutli 
American,  and  Pacific  coast  travel.  In  the  intermediate  years  of 
foreign  travel,  my  winters  were  passed  in  the  South,  and  the 
West  Indies,  Going  southerly  I  varied  and  changed  my  routes 
in  every  possible  manner,  in  order  to  pass  over  almost  all  the 
roads  and  rivers  of  our  country,  now  touching  the  capitals  of  all 
the  western  and  southern  States,  and  then  taking  cross  roads, 
through  pine  forests  and  everglades,  along  the  banks  of  low 
fever  rivers  with  their  rice  plantations,  upon  the  bayous  and 
streams  whose  deep  alluvial  produces  the  sugar  crop,  and  upon 
the  high  and  low  lands  which  produce  the  sea-island  and  up- land 
cotton,  thereby  giving  one  an  opportunity  to  see  the  small  towns 
and  villages  of  our  country,  and  to  study  the  characteristics  of 
our  people,  and  the  mildness  of  their  peculiar  institution,  as  com- 
pared with  other  countries,  and  to  value  the  productions  of  the 
south.  After  escaping  the  rigors  of  a  northern  winter  in  the 
West  Indies,  my  five  upward  Mississippi  trips  from  New  Orleans, 
in  the  month  of  May  or  June,  would  be  varied. 

After  making  Natchez  and  Yicksburg,  Mississippi,  a  visit,  I 
looked  into  Arkansas — Natchitoches  and  Alexandria  on  the  Red 
River,  I  had  already  seen.  The  rising  city  of  Memphis  and 
its  producing  region  demanded  attention.     St.  Louis,  from  its 

10 


146  OVER  THE   STATES. 

commanding  position  and  rapid  growth,  could  not  be  neglected, 
Louisville  and  Frankfort,  in  Kentucky,  were  not  forgotten, 
and  a  pilgrimage  to  Ashland,  where  the  hospitalities  of  the 
renowned  and  beloved  Henry  Clay  can  never  be  forgotten.  The 
populous  city  of  Cincinnati,  with  its  fleet  of  steamers  and  its 
immense  commerce,  was  regarded  with  pleasure  on  several  occa- 
sions. The  passes  of  the  Alleghany  mountains  through  Virgi- 
nia and  Maryland  gave  me  a  chance  to  examine  the  coal  mines, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  mineral  resources  of  the  country.  To  vary 
the  trips,  Pittsburg,  the  Manchester  of  America,  and  Alleghany, 
its  sister  city,  came  in  for  their  share  of  attention  in  the  visits  of 
their  iron  works — the  smoky  atmosphere  reminded  one  of  Bir- 
mingham, Sheffield,  and  other  manufacturing  cities  in  England. 

The  mountain  rides  through  Pennsylvania,  and  the  canal  trip 
to  Harrisburg,  the  State  capital,  were  suited  to  the  admirer  of 
nature ;  a  short  sojourn  among  the  Germans  in  the  close 
cultivated  regions  of  Lancaster  brought  up  souvenirs  of  Hesse 
Cassel  in  Germany. 

On  other  northern-bound  trips  instead  of  turning  east  by  the 
Ohio,  I  would  go  up  the  Elinois  river  to  Peru  and  Peoria,  then 
strike  across  the  prairies  to  Chicago,  or  continue  up  the  Mississippi, 
touching  Nauvoo,  the  former  residence  of  the  Mormons,  and 
visiting  Iowa,  thence  up  the  Fever  River  to  Galena,  take  a  look 
at  the  lead  mines,  cross  the  prairies  in  a  slow  coach,  the  wild 
grass  and  flowers  up  to  the  horses'  knees,  where  the  cries  of  the 
wolf  and  the  scream  of  wild  birds  only  disturb  the  monotony  of 
these  plains  bounded  by  the  horizon.  At  this  early  period 
Chicago  and  Milwaukie  were  only  in  their  infancy.  I  have 
looked  at  them  again  on  several  occasions  since,  but  more 
recently  what  was  my  astonishment  to  find  them  large  populous 
cities,  with  iron  arms  extending  in  all  directions,  the  snort  of  the 
iron  horse  replacing  the  cries  of  the  wild  beasts  of  the  prairies. 
In  due  course  St.  Paul,  Minnesota,  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  the 
head  sources  of  the  Father  of  Waters,  Madison,  the  capital  of 
Wisconsin,  with  Fond  du  Lac,  Racine  and  Sheboygan,  had  to  be 
seen.  The  tour  of  the  great  lakes,  Michigan,  Huron,  St.  Clair, 
Erie,  Ontario,  all  the  cities  of  Upper  and  Lower  Canada,  the 
running  of  the  rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  a  return  by  lake 
Champlain,  formed  part  of  another  programme.  The  interior 
cities  and  ca,pitals  of  Michigan,  Illinois,  Indiana,  and  Ohio,  were 


HOME   KNOWLEDGE   FOR   FOREIGN   USE.  147 

visited  partly  before  any  railroad  penetrated  them,  and  of  course 
attended  with  much  inconvenience  and  fatigue.  During  my  stay 
in  the  north  from  time  to  time  the  cities  of  Massachusetts,  Maine, 
New  Hampshire,  Rhode  Island,  Connecticut,  and  Vermont  were 
visited,  the  cotton  and  woollen  manufactories  of  Lowell,  the 
whaling  mart  of  New  Bedford,  and  shipbuilding  on  the  Kenne- 
bec river,  were  looked  at,  as  well  as  almost  all  the  railroad  routes 
with  their  towns  and  cities  in  this  and  other  States. 

The  inquiry  will  naturally  be.  What  was  the  inducement? 
The  answer  must  be  briefly  this :  I  designed  going  again  to 
Europe,  and  I  wished  to  familiarize  myself  with  every  point  in 
our  own  country,  and  to  obtain  some  general  knowledge  at  least 
of  the  resources,  productions,  and  characteristics  of  this  vast  ter- 
ritory. Emigration  had  been  setting  in  so  rapidly,  the  inte- 
rest felt  by  foreigners  was  increasing,  and  the  inquiries  made  by 
English,  French,  German,  and  other  races  were  so  frequent  that 
I  hoped  to  be  able  to  answer  all  general  interrogations,  if  not 
practically,  theoretically.  The  embarrassment  to  Americans 
abroad  is  frequently  great  from  having  too  little  knowledge  of 
their  own  country. 

An  English  traveller  in  Switzerland  once  asked  me  why  we 
had  such  frightful  accidents  b}^  explosion  and  otherwise  on  the 
Mississippi  river,  while  cases  were  so  rare  in  England.  I  replied 
that  high-pressure  steamers  were  employed,  and  that  the  naviga- 
tion was  obstructed  by  snags  and  sawyers,  or  trees  carried  down 
and  fastened  in  the  river-bed.  He  remarked,  that  an  American 
had  told  him  our  boats  were  all  low-pressure.  I  replied,  that 
the  gentleman  was  from  the  north,  and  had  probably  never  seen 
a  high-pressure  steamer. 

I  trust  the  reader  will  accept  these  explanations  as  an  apology 
for  an  itinerant  life,  and  not  attribute  it  all  to  the  passion  for 
travel. 


148  IN   FRANCE. 


1848. 
XXXYIII. 

EOME,  May,  1848. 

My  voyage  across  the  Atlantic  was  rather  boisterous.  We 
were  exposed  to  the  gale  the  night  that  the  unfortunate  ship 
Stephen  Whitney  was  lost  with  upwards  of  one  hundred 
passengers,  near  Liverpool,  while  we  were  approaching  the  port 
of  Havre.  We  left  Sandy  Hook  together,  and  reached  the 
British  and  French  coasts  about  the  same  time. 

I  found  Havre  much  the  same  as  I  left  it  some  years  since, 
but  instead  of  coasting  along  the  beautiful  banks  of  the  Seine, 
by  steamers,  as  formerly,  to  Rouen,  and  thence  by  diligence  to 
Paris,  I  was  whirled  through  in  locomotive  style  in  a  few  hours. 

My  stay  at  Paris  was  only  sufficient  to  make  preparations  for 
my  southern  trip.  I  took  my  departure  via  Orleans,  Tours, 
Bordeaux,  Toulouse,  Nismes,  and  Aries ;  the  latter  cities,  with 
their  vast  collection  of  Roman  ruins,  are  worthy  of  a  visit.  At 
all  these  places  I  made  a  short  sojourn,  not  having  touched 
them  in  my  former  travels  in  France.  In  my  general  voyages, 
I  have  adopted  as  a  rule  varying  my  route,  in  order  to  see  the 
entire  country,  for  which  reason  instead  of  going  from  Marseilles 
to  Genoa  by  water,  as  formerly,  I  took  land  conveyance  to  Tou- 
lon in  order  to  visit  the  great  French  naval  station,  and  the 
prisons  and  workshops  of  the  five  thousand  French  culprits. 

From  Toulon  I  came  to  Nice,  the  city  so  celebrated  for  its 
salubrity  of  climate,  where  so  many  pulmonary  patients  are  sent 
by  their  physicians  to  spend  the  winter,  and  where  I  designed 
also  passing  some  months.  But  here  I  must  be  allowed  to  differ 
in  opinion  with  the  faculty,  as  far  as  I  am  at  liberty  to  judge 
from  my  own  experience.  The  approach  to  the  city  from  Tou- 
lon, winding  along  the  shore  of  the  Mediterranean  with  its 
walled  hills,  amphitheatre-like,  covered  with  a  profusion  of 
olive,    lemon,    and   orange    trees,    laden   with    fruit,   is    truly 


NICE   AND   GENOA.  149 

enchanting.  The  mild  and  genial  rays  of  the  sun,  with  the 
light  breeze  from  the  sea,  is  most  grateful,  while  one  beholds  in 
the  distance  the  ranges  of  mountains  covered  with  snow  to  their 
summits.  The  new  part  of  the  city  is  well  built  with  spacious 
streets  on  both  sides  of  the  river  Paglione,  or  rather  mountain 
torrent,  but  the  old  town  is  quite  Italian,  with  narrow  streets, 
tall  buildings,  and  much  filth.  The  rides  and  promenades  along 
the  coast  and  over  the  hills  and  mountains  in  the  suburbs,  can 
scarcely  be  surpassed ;  but  the  transition  from  the  heat  of  the 
day  to  the  cool  of  night,  or  from  the  exposure  of  the  sun's  rays 
to  the  shade,  is  too  severe  for  those  of  a  pulmonary  habit. 

From  Nice  I  took  my  departure  along  the  coast  to  Genoa,  and 
over  one  of  the  most  interesting  roads  for  the  sublime  and  pic- 
turesque, I  had  yet  seen.  The  shore  is  studded  with  small  cities 
and  fishing  towns ;  elevated  at  times  nearly  to  the  summit  of 
the  mountains  which  project  in  the  sea  ;  the  huge  and  elaborate 
tunnels  are  cut  through  solid  rocks  which  are  covered  with 
snow ;  then  a  descent  upon  vineyards  and  orange  groves,  with  a 
wide  and  expanded  view  upon  the  bosom  of  the  sea,  dotted  with 
fruit  and  fishing  vessels ;  and  around  the  ever- varying  costume 
of  the  peasantry  and  fishermen,  the  former  engaged  in  gathering 
the  olive  and  bearing  loaded  baskets  of  oranges,  and  the  latter 
lazily  lounging  in  the  sun's  rays,  or  hauling  their  vessels  on  the 
beach,  or  mending  their  nets  preparatory  to  a  cruise. 

From  Genoa  I  embarked  for  Leghorn  and  Pisa,  where  I  have 
passed  some  time,  and  where  the  climate  seems  more  uniform 
and  dry  than  any  other  part  of  Italy,  and  more  desirable  as  a 
winter  residence  for  those  who  have  any  pulmonary  disposition. 
It  is  less  subject  to  changes  from  the  contiguity  of  mountains,  as 
at  Genoa  and  Florence,  and  is  less  humid  than  Naples  or  Rome. 
I  am  quite  satisfied,  however,  that  no  climate  in  Italy  for  the 
winter  residence  of  an  invalid  will  compare  with  the  West  India 
Islands,  or  even  with  the  southern  part  of  the  United  States. 

As  far  as  my  experience  goes  the  climates  of  the  islands  of 
Sicily  and  Malta  are  more  desirable  than  Italy,  but  Egypt, 
being  dry  and  warm,  is  better  still ;  however,  I  would  advise 
those  who  are  decidedly  pulmonary  to  pass  their  winters  in  the 
West  Indies. 

The  revolutions  all  about  us,  and  the  preparation  and  march- 
ing of  troops,  both  regulars  and  volunteers,  arriving  from  Naples 


150  EOME. 

and  Leghorn,  and  departing  from  here,  have  been  exciting.  The 
frequent  illuminations  on  the  receipt  of  victorious  news  from  the 
Italian  army,  and  the  tri-colored  flags  waving  from  every  house 
in  the  city,  with  the  roaring  of  cannon  and  "le  feu  de  joie" 
from  every  window,  continued  until  the  authorities  found  it  was 
'  best  to  keep  their  powder  and  prevent  accidents. 

One  extreme  always  follows  another;  joy  is  changed  into 
grief;  the  whole  populace  in  tears  at  the  loss  of  a  battle,  the 
massacre  of  their  brethren — widows,  sisters,  and  mothers  are  sob- 
bing bitterly ;  the  cathedral  is  clothed  in  black,  and  thronged 
with  thousands,  the  transparencies  in  large  letters  at  the  ponde- 
rous brazen  doors  breathe  vengeance  upon  the  oppressor ;  the 
immense  catafalque  in  the  centre  of  the  nave  is  covered  with  the 
uniforms,  and  flags,  and  all  the  instruments  of  war,  and  shrouded 
with  mourning ;  the  Te  Deum  is  chaunted  ;  the  cry  is  again  to 
arms.  The  priest  in  his  long  robes  and  girdled  waist,  and  broad 
brimmed  three-cocked  hat,  heads  the  movement,  the  crucifix 
in  hand,  for  the  holy  crusade,  amid  the  cries  of  "Death  to 
Metternich,"  "  viva  italia,  viva  pio  nono." 

I  have  spent  a  month  in  Eome,  and  have  found  no  great 
changes  since  I  was  last  here,  except  the  political  ones.  It  is 
pleasant  to  hear  the  cry  of  the  newsboy,  and  see  the  groups  of 
citizens  at  the  corners  of  the  streets,  reading  the  news  of  the 
day ;  for  which  they  are  indebted  to  the  liberal  mind  of  the 
present  Pope,  Pius  IX.  I  find  fewer  strangers  at  Eome  during 
the  services  of  the  Holy  "Week  than  formerly,  and  in  consequence 
of  the  revolutions  about  us,  the  English  are  afraid  to  travel,  and 
are  deserting  the  city  rapidly,  and  taking  passage  by  sea  for 
their  native  isle. 

The  ceremonies  of  the  church  were  quite  as  gorgeous  as  under 
Pope  Gregory  XVI. ;  the  illumination  of  St.  Peter's  with  its 
thousands  of  lamps  and  torches,  was  quite  as  magical,  but  the 
Girandola,  or  fireworks  of  the  castle  of  St.  Angelo,  did  not 
take  place,  to  the  disappointment  of  thousands  who  had  not  seen 
it.  Report  says  a  conspiracy  had  been  discovered,  and  several 
barrels  of  powder  found  intended  for  a  general  blow-up  on  the 
occasion.  The  Pope,  who  has  a  fine-looking  person  and  an 
amiable  face,  appeared  thoughtful  and  devout  during  all  the 
services  of  Passion  Week,  pronounced  the  benediction  to  the 
thousands  and  thousands  from  the  balcony  of  St.  Peter's,  preached 


THE   CARNIVAL.  151 

with  dignity  at  the  Feast  of  the  Pilgrims,  but  I  thought  washed 
the  feet  of  the  latter  with  less  humility  than  his  predecessor 
Gregory. 

We  have  been  on  the  eve  of  civil  war,  having  had  a  three 
days'  ^meute.  The  Pope,  who  had  headed  the  reform  movement 
and  acquiesced  in  the  arming  of  thousands  of  Romans  for  the 
crusade  against  the  Austrians,  was,  in  his  pious  moments,  after 
the  Holy  Week,  prevailed  upon  by  the  perfidious  counsels  of 
the  cardinals  to  proclaim  against  the  war.  As  a  natural  conse- 
quence the  whole  population  were  interested ;  mothers,  sisters, 
and  lovers,  whose  friends  had  gone  forth  in  good  ftiith  to  fight 
the  battle  of  national  independence,  were  liable  to  be  taken  and 
shot  or  hung,  without  any  privileges  accorded  to  an  enemy 
legally  enrolled.  The  National  Guard  of  twelve  thousand  strong 
took  possession  of  all  the  gates  of  the  city,  inclosed  the  cardinals 
in  their  palaces  to  prevent  escape  from  the  city,  and  thus  things 
remained  for  three  days  until  a  reconciliation  took  place,  and  a 
change  of  ministry. 

The  carnival  season  this  year  was  rather  dull  in  comparison 
with  former  times ;  but  in  addition  to  the  usual  parade  of  mas- 
querades in  carriages  and  on  foot,  with  an  ample  supply  of  sugar 
rouberies  which  they  throw  furiously  at  each  other  in  passing, 
and  the  avalanche  of  bouquets  of  flowers  for  the  ladies,  they 
have  a  custom  at  Pisa  of  carrying  wax  torches  called  Moccolo, 
which,  as  nightfall  finishes  the  procession,  are  lighted,  and  then 
the  whole  line  of  the  river  Arno  is  illuminated  with  bonfires, 
which  give  an  enchanting  efiect.  The  shout  of  "  Moccolo, 
Moccolo,"  from  thousands  of  voices,  as  they  endeavor  to  tear 
from  each  other  the  wax  tapers,  amid  the  shower  of  sugar-plums 
and  bouquets,  was  an  exciting  scene,  from  which  I  was  glad  to 
make  my  escape  with  spotted  garments. 


'XXXIX. 


Geneva,  Switzerland,  1848. 

I  HAD  taken  the  precaution  at  Rome  to  write  to  Civita  Vecchia 

to  secure  a  berth  by  the  steamer  Capri  for  Leghorn,  but  on  my 

arrival  I  found  my  chance  was  only  for  a  mattress  on  the  cabin 

floor,  as  some  one  hundred  and  fifty  passengers  had  just  escaped 


152  EN  KOUTE. 

from  the  revolution  and  massacre  at  Naples,  and  the  steamer  was 
full.  We  had  one  of  those  nights  that  I  had  seldom  seen  on  the 
Mediterranean,  stormy  and  boisterous,  with  a  heavy  sea ;  the 
horrors  of  sea-sickness  were  experienced  by  all,  except  some  six 
of  us  old  travellers,  who,  in  place  of  a  four-franc  dinner,  always 
paid  for  in  advance,  could  only  get  a  bowl  of  soup  by  bracing 
oneself  in  a  corner.  Chairs  were  flying  about  under  the  table, 
and  one  confused,  chaotic  mass  of  humanity,  men,  women,  and 
children,  was  stretched  over  the  settees  and  cabin  floors,  while 
others  kept  on  deck  exposed  to  a  drenching  rain. 

At  the  Baths  of  Lucca  I  found  but  few  strangers,  as  they 
were  fearful  of  an  attack  from  deserted  soldiers,  and  a  portion  of 
the  Neapolitan  army  who  had  been  recalled  by  their  despotic  king. 

At  Florence  the  people  caught  the  general,  whose  mission  had 
been  at  Bologna  to  recall  the  troops  after  the  revolution  of 
Naples ;  he  succeeded  in  making  his  escape,  however,  but  we 
had  a  great  flare-up  in  the  public  place,  at  midnight,  in  the 
burning  of  his  papers  and  carriage.  It  was  a  tumultuous  scene ; 
the  infatuated  mob  hissing,  groaning,  and  shouting,  and  the 
military  with  their  gleaming  bayonets  shining,  as  the  flames  and 
cinders  rose  in  the  air. 

The  Grand  Duke  is  much  respected  by  his  people,  and  Tuscany 
has  more  liberty  than  any  other  part  of  Italy.  I  was  a  witness 
of  the  brilliant  reception  he  received  by  the  populace  at  Leghorn, 
and  heard  his  address  from  the  balcony  of  the  palace,  after  which 
followed  an  illumination  of  the  city.  I  have  little  confidence  in 
the  lower  classes  of  Leghorn.  They  are  excitable  and  tumul- 
tuous, and  difficult  to  restrain,  and  we  may  soon  hear  of  a  general 
flare-up  or  civil  war.  It  afforded  me  pleasure  to  visit  once  again 
our  fellow-countrymen,  Messrs.  Powers  and  Greenough,  whose 
studios  have  contributed  so  much  in  sculpture  to  the  fame  of 
American  artists,  and  who  are  so  well  known  in  our  country.  I 
found  several  other  American  artists,  both  painters  and  sculptors, 
at  Florence,  who  promise  well  for  the  future.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  agreeable  residences  in  Italy,  but  I  find  fewer  strangers  here 
than  formerly,  as  the  political  disturbances,  and  the  failure  of 
bankers  in  Paris,  have  driven  them  away. 

At  Genoa  all  was  tranquil,  and  from  thence  I  took  the  malle- 
poste  via  Alexandria,  the  great  Piedmont  fortifications,  near 
which   is   the   battle-ground  of  Marengo,  for   Turin.     In   the 


TURIN.  153 

absence  of  the  royal  family  and  the  bulk  of  the  army  it  was 
rather  dull.  The  greatest  enthusiasm  for  the  Italian  cause  per- 
vades all  Sardinia,  and  the  Piedmont  soldiers,  being  a  brave  and 
hardy  race  from  the  mountains,  are  capable  of  doing  duty  ;  but  I 
fear  without  support  from  other  sources  they  will  not  be  able  to 
resist  the  impetuous  and  large  forces  of  the  Austrians,  composed 
of  Croats,  Slavonians,  and  Hungarians. 

Turin  is  a  beautiful  city,  with  a  population  of  some  two  hundred 
thousand,  and  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  river  Po.  Its 
boulevards  and  promenades  in  the  suburbs  are  strikingly  pretty. 
The  palace  of  Charles  Albert  is  vast  and  richly  ornamented ; 
the  collection  of  ancient  armor  in  the  old  chateau  is  more 
beautiful  than  any  I  had  seen,  except  the  Green  Vaults  of 
Dresden. 

The  Sardinian  Senate  was  in  session,  and  in  company  with 
our  Charge  d' Affaires,  Mr.  Niles,  who  accompanied  me  to  the 
Tribune,  where  was  seated  the  delegation  from  Milan,  praying 
the  union  of  Lombardy  to  Sardinia.  We  heard  Count  Balbi  of 
Genoa,  well  known  for  his  liberal  views,  present  a  petition  for 
the  immediate  incorporation  of  the  two  countries.  It  was 
received  with  bursts  of  applause  and  unanimous  acclamations, 
and  rarely  have  I  seen  so  much  enthusiasm  in  a  public  body  of 
representatives. 

The  country  from  Turin  to  Ivrea,  as  the  road  strikes  north  to 
the  St.  Bernard,  is  well  cultivated,  and  has  an  air  of  comfort ;  and, 
in  fact,  in  Piedmont  generally  is  seen  much  less  of  that  squalid 
poverty  than  is  met  with  at  the  south  of  Italy. 

The  valley  of  Ostia  is  beautiful  in  the  extreme,  for  the  wild 
and  picturesque,  as  is  also  the  mountain  scenery,  and  the  torrents 
from  the  melting  of  the  snows,  as  they  rush  by  with  an  impe- 
tuosity frightful  to  behold,  and  only  found  in  Switzerland  in  the 
vicinity  of  high  mountains.  To  my  surprise,  at  the  foot  of  St. 
Bernard,  in  the  extreme  north  of  Italy,  I  found  at  the  entrance 
of  the  town  of  Ostia  a  Roman  arch  that  in  beauty  and  preserva- 
tion would  surpass  the  arches  of  Titus  and  Constantine  in  Rome. 
There  is  also  a  colossal  Roman  bridge  in  good  preservation, 
although  partly  covered  with  the  dust  of  ages,  also  the  remains 
of  an  amphitheatre,  and  other  relics. 

After  a  day  spent  here  I  proceeded  in  a  one-horse  vehicle  to 
a  small  village  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  where  commences  the 


154  ST.   BERNARD. 

ascent,  and  where  I  passed  the  night.  At  the  entrance  of  the 
inn  I  started  back  at  the  sight  of  a  huge  chained  dog,  with 
glassy  eyes,  but  soon  found  it  was  none  other  than  the  stuffed 
skin  of  one  of  those  noble  fellows  who  had  saved  the  lives  of 
several  snow-benighted  travellers. 

The  keeper  of  the  inn  was  the  guide  of  the  pass.  I  asked  him 
his  terms  for  his  mules  and  services,  and  found  that  he  asked 
double  the  ordinary  prices.  Upon  expostulating  with  him  he 
informed  me  that  no  traveller  had  yet  passed ;  that  the  ava- 
lanches were  yet  unmelted  and  to  be  feared.  I  thought  it  was  all 
a  ruse,  but  he  said  he  would  prefer  not  to  go.  I  could  not 
retrace  my  steps;  I  was  well  provided  with  garments,  having 
an  Algerine  cloak  with  a  hood  attached  to  protect  the  head,  a 
mantle  in  addition,  with  shoes  and  overshoes.  I  knew  I  could 
not  suffer  from  cold,  and  I  accepted  his  terms,  to  leave  the  fol- 
lowing morning  with  two  mules  for  myself  and  baggage,  and 
two  guides.  To  my  surprise  I  found  all  he  had  said  was  true. 
We  passed  over  immense  avalanches  of  snow  in  the  gorges  and 
passages,  where  it  was  necessary  for  the  two  guides  to  take  one 
mule  at  a  time,  one  at  the  head  and  the  other  at  the  side,  to  keep 
me  mounted. 

We  arrived  safely  at  the  Convent  or  Hospice,  and  I  was  cor- 
dially received  by  the  fraternity  and  showed  the  interior  of  the 
immense  building  with  over  one  hundred  rooms ;  its  chapel  or 
church  is  decorated  with  paintings,  marble  altars,  crucifixes,  &;c., 
and  would  compare  with  many  small  churches  in  Italy.  Here 
is  also  the  monument  of  Gen.  Dessaix,  Napoleon's  bosom  friend, 
who  fell  at  the  battle  of  Marengo.  The  Emperor  contributed 
largely  to  the  funds  of  the  establishment.  I  saw  that  famous 
breed  of  dogs  so  well  known,  and  also  a  building  where  are  the 
bones  and  dried  mummies  of  those  who  die  in  the  convent  or 
are  found  in  the  snow.  The  monks  are  only  thirteen  in  num- 
ber, and  usually  change  every  three  years,  as  the  temperature  is 
found  too  bracing.  They  informed  me  that  all  my  guide  had 
said  was  true ;  that  I  was  the  first  traveller  of  the  season  ;  I  was 
quite  at  home  among  them,  as  they  had  many  inquiries  to  make 
about  Home  and  Palestine;  and  although  dinner  was  served 
early  on  my  behalf,  our  sitting  was  prolonged  until  I  was 
admonished  by  my  guides  it  was  time  to  depart  in  order  to 
arrive  at  the  village  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  before  nio;htfall. 


GENEVA.  155 

There  I  procured  a  char-d-hanc  and  came  to  St.  Maurice  and 
Martiguy,  and  soon  embarked  by  steamer  npon  the  beautiful 
Lake  of  Geneva,  passing  Vevay,  Lausanne,  and  other  towns 
with  all  their  souvenirs  of  a  former  visit  during  the  season  of 
tlie  vintage.  The  day  was  warm  and  beautiful,  and  the  lake 
placid,  and  I  was  quite  satisfied  having  made  the  pass  of  the 
mountains  which  loomed  up  in  the  distance,  the  peak  eternally 
covered  with  snow,  without  having  suffered  accident  or  inconve- 
nience. 

I  find  this  beautiful  town,  Geneva,  less  active  than  when  I  last 
visited  it,  as  the  distracted  state  of  affairs  on  the  Continent  has 
operated  seriously  against  the  branch  of  commerce  in  which  it 
chiefly  engaged — the  manufacture  of  jewelry.  There  are  now 
five  thousand  workmen  without  their  regular  employment, 
and  the  authorities,  to  keep  them  from  open  rebellion,  are  level- 
ling a  rampart  and  filling  up  the  fosses,  which  gives  employ  to 
a  vast  number  at  a  remuneration  of  only  one  and  a  half  francs, 
or  thirty  cents  per  day,  barely  sufficient  to  keep  body  and  soul 
together. 


XL. 

Munich,  Bavaria,  1848. 

"When  I  wrote  you  last  I  was  on  the  eve  of  departure  for 
Neufchatel,  which  is  a  quiet  town,  and  beautifully  situated  upon 
the  lake  which  bears  the  same  name.  The  rich  and  varied 
mountain  scenery,  the  still  and  placid  waters  of  the  lake,  the 
high  state  of  culture  of  the  grape  and  other  products,  with  the 
apparent  comfort  surrounding  the  Swiss  cottages,  made  it  an 
agreeable  trip.  Here  too  they  had  had  their  Revolution,  and  the 
royalist  party,  which  was  under  the  protection  of  the  King  of 
Prussia,  was  obliged  to  give  way  to  the  Republican  Swiss. 

Lucerne  offers  but  few  attractions  in  itself,  but  an  excursion 
by  steamer  to  the  head  of  the  lake,  with  its  ever-varying  scenery 
and  localities  full  of  historical  reminiscences,  gives  it  additional 
interest.  The  chapel  erected  to  the  memory  of  William  Tell  is 
seen  under  the  precipice  from  which  he  leaped  when  pursued  by 
his  oppressors  ;  also  the  Grotto  of  the  Swiss  conspirators,  where 
they  concealed  themselves  when  striving  for  the  redemption  of 


lo6  SCHAFFHAUSEN. 

their  country.  Mount  Riga,  too,  lises  in  all  his  majesty  in  the 
distance,  and  is  much  visited  in  ordinary  seasons  by  travellers, 
but  in  these  revolutionary  times  I  find  myself  quite  alone.  The 
landlords  complain,  and  say  their  callings  are  gone,  for  this  year 
at  least. 

At  the  beautiful  town  of  Zurich  I  made  an  agreeable  sojourn, 
and  met  with  real  Swiss  hospitality  from  friends  whose  acquaint- 
ance I  had  made  en  voyage.  The  society  is  good  here,  and 
gave  me  an  opportunity  of  seeing  much  of  the  manners  and 
customs  in  private  life.  The  hotels  are  excellent ;  the  excur- 
sions upon  the  lake  by  steamer,  most  agreeable.  The  town  is 
pleasantly  situated  upon  both  sides  of  the  stream  where  the 
lake  discharges  itself,  and  is  connected  by  bridges,  and  reminds 
me  of  Geneva. 

From  Zurich,  I  took  a  northerly  direction  to  Schaffhausen,  to 
see  the  Cataract  of  the  Rhine,  which  is  well  worth  a  visit ;  but 
the  fall  of  a  river  of  only  eighty  feet,  although  grand  and  beau- 
tiful, and  highly  extolled  by  continental  tourists,  does  not  so 
particularly  interest  an  American  who  has  visited  the  majestic 
and  indescribable  falls  of  Niagara.  This  reminds  me  of  an 
anecdote  related  of  a  controversy  between  an  American  and  an 
Italian,  relative  to  the  beauties  and  remarkable  curiosities  of  the 
two  countries.  The  Italian  thought  he  had  the  advantage,  par- 
ticularly in  describing  the  volcano,  and  the  eruptions  of  Mount 
Vesuvius;  but  the  American  replied,  "Yes,  all  very  true;  and 
we  have  Niagara,  which  can  drown  Yesuvius  in  less  than  five 
minutes." 

From  Schaffhausen,  the  steamer  takes  one  along  the  upper 
Rhine,  which  is  low  and  flat  in  many  places,  and  not  remarkable 
for  its  beauty.  We  then  entered  Lake  Constance,  which  is  the 
largest  sheet  of  water  in  Switzerland,  touching  at  different  points 
until  our  arrival  at  Constance,  which  has  nothing  particular  to 
offer  for  the  traveller  in  the  way  of  sights. 

Having  made  zigzag  routes  in  Switzerland  in  my  former  as 
well  as  present  voyage,  and  having  seen  eighteen  out  of  the 
twenty-two  cantons  comprising  the  Confederation,  I  was  quite 
satisfied  to  depart  for  the  head  of  the  lake,  on  my  way  to  Augs- 
burgh  and  Munich.  This  latter  city,  with  a  population  of  one 
hundred  thousand,  is  an  interesting  place,  and  contains  more  to 
interest  a  stranger  than  most  of  the  German   cities.     It,   too^ 


MUNICH.  157 

has  had  a  share  of  revolution ;  and  the  late  king  Louis,  who 
has  abdicated  in  favor  of  his  son,  and  whose  flivorite,  Lola  Mon- 
tez,  created  so  much  noise  in  the  world,  has  fled  to  Switzerland. 
The  king  had  a  great  passion  for  the  fine  arts,  both  painting 
and  sculpture,  and  good  taste  in  architecture  ;  and  the  new  part 
of  the  city  is  beautified  with  piles  of  immense  edifices  for  the 
use  of  the  state,  and  galleries  of  paintings,  statuary,  and  antique 
collections.  The  contrast  between  the  quaint,  antique  houses, 
of  irregular  construction,  with  high  roofs  and  two  tiers  of  win- 
dows in  their  main  fronts,  ornamented  with  scroll-work,  and  the 
modern  style  of  buildings,  is  very  great. 

The  new  palace,  copied  after  the  Pitti  Palace  at  Florence,  is 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  Europe,  with  floors  of  various  kinds 
of  wood,  inlaid  in  patterns  which  differ  in  all  the  rooms,  and 
produce  a  sort  of  mosaic.  The  cornices,  bas-reliefs  in  marble, 
fresco  paintings,  after  the  fashion  of  Pompeii  and  the  Vatican 
at  Rome,  statuary  in  marble  and  bronze  gilt,  with  the  damask 
hangings  and  tapestry — the  magnificence  and  apparent  comfort 
of  these  things  struck  me  very  forcibly. 

For  one  who  has  not  seen  other  parts  of  Europe,  some  weeks 
could  be  employed  advantageously  in  Munich.  I  have  been 
here  several  days,  and  have  had  constant  employment,  first  in 
visiting  the  gallery  of  sculpture,  where  I  found  a  vast  collection 
of  Egyptian  and  Etruscan  antiquities ;  those  which  were  broken 
were  well  restored  by  Thorwaldsen.  One  room  is  devoted  to 
Egyptian  statuary,  another  to  Etruscan,  another  to  ^gina  col- 
lections, and  the  decorations  of  each  apartment  are  adapted  to 
the  contents,  the  floors  of  marble,  and  the  ceilings  in  rich  fresco 
and  stucco  patterns,  with  gilding.  Li  the  room  appropriated  to 
Egyptian  statuary,  I  could  almost  fancy  myself  back  among  the 
ruins  of  Thebes,  and  the  great  temples  of  Karnak,  so  natural 
did  everything  appear. 

The  picture  gallery  is  one  of  the  finest  buildings  for  paintings 
in  Europe.  The  paintings  are  arranged  in  the  schools  of  the 
different  masters  and  countries,  filling  seven  splendid  halls,  and 
twenty-three  small  cabinets.  The  finest  and  largest  pictures  of 
each  school  are  placed  in  the  centre  halls,  and  the  light  is  thrown 
down  upon  them  from  above ;  the  others  are  lighted  from  the 
sides.  The  ceilings  are  in  fresco  and  paintings,  all  of  historical 
character.     There  are  some  one  thousand  five  hundred   paint- 


158  SUNDAY  AMUSEMENTS. 

ings,  selected  from  seven  thousand  of  the  different  galleries  in 
Bavaria ;  and  altogether  the  collection  reflects  honor  upon  the 
late  king,  who  has  expended  large  sums  of  money  from  his 
private  purse  for  the  embelhshraent  of  his  capital,  which  is  now 
so  beautiful,  and  which  a  century  since  was  only  a  small  Ger- 
man town.  A  heavy  debt,  however,  has  been  created  for  the 
state,  which,  as  in  all  other  countries,  the  good  people  must  pay, 
whether  for  honorable  appropriations,  or  the  follies  and  caprices 
of  sovereigns. 

Among  the  public  monuments,  is  one  now  in  process  of  con- 
struction, called  the  Genius  of  Bavaria ;  it  is  of  cast  bronze  and 
of  colossal  size.  It  is  the  figure  of  a  female  with  flowing  ring- 
lets, about  fifty  feet  in  height,  mounted  on  a  pedestal,  with  a 
crouching  lion  at  her  feet,  all  of  solid  bronze.  The  work  is 
still  going  forward  at  the  foundry  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city,  and 
will  require  some  time  yet  to  finish  it.  It  will  surpass  altogether 
the  statue  of  San  Carlo  Boromeo,  of  beaten  copper,  upon  Lago 
Maggiore,  in  Italy. 

The  population  of  Munich  are  mostly  Catholics,  and  yesterday 
being  Sunday,  I  visited  the  churches,  which  are  not  as  remarkable, 
with  some  exceptions,  as  in  Italy.  There  is  one,  the  Basilica  of 
St.  Bonifacius,  which  is  built  in  Roman  style,  after  the  plan  of 
St.  Paul's,  about  three  miles  from  Rome.  It  is  of  red  brick, 
but  the  interior  is  beautifully  decorated,  and  supported  by 
sixty-four  columns  of  marble  in  four  rows  ;  it  is  divided  in  four 
arches,  with  a  nave  seventy  feet  high,  and  fifty  feet  wide.  The 
pave  is  of  marble  with  painted  ceiling  of  blue,  and  beams  carved 
and  gilded  with  a  variety  of  frescoes. 

My  valet  took  me  in  the  suburbs  in  the  afternoon,  and,  as  in 
all  Catholic  countries,  the  Sunday  afternoon  and  evening  are 
devoted  to  recreation,  so  here  also.  The  gardens  were  full  to 
overflowing,  the  tables  were  crowded  with  drinkers  and  smokers, 
and  a  full  proportion  of  the  fair  sex  with  their  peculiar  costume, 
and  head-dress  called  Riegel  Haube^  which  is  a  small  bag  of  gold 
or  silver  tissue,  with  two  points  like  a  swallow's  tail,  and  is  worn 
on  the  back  of  the  head  to  inclose  the  hair.  It  costs  twelve  or 
fifteen  dollars,  and  it  is  the  height  of  ambition  of  the  peasant 
girl  to  indulge  in  it.  Music  was  heard  in  all  directions,  and 
waltzes  and  dances  kept  up  much  later  than  I  had  a  disposition 
to  stay  and  gratify  curiosity. 


AUGSBURG.  159 

What  a  striking  contrast  between  this  and  our  own  quiet 
Sabbaths  at  home !  But  such  is  the  result  of  early  education, 
and  we  must  learn  to  exercise  charity  towards  those  who  differ 
from  us  from  the  fact  tliat  they  have  been  taught  differently. 
Ever  since  the  reformation  of  Luther,  such  is  the  strong  tenacity 
of  the  people  to  Sunday  recreations,  that,  in  many  parts  of 
Germany,  the  dance  and  promenade  in  the  evening  succeed  the 
morning  services  of  the  Protestant  church. 

I  was  at  Augsburg  at  the  anniversary  of  the  birthday  of  the 
Bishop,  and  was  much  amused  at  the  immense  collection  of 
peasants  who  thronged  the  streets  in  costume,  and  filled  the 
cathedral  and  vicinity ;  many  of  the  women  wore  head-dresses 
not  unlike  those  of  Munich,  but  the  greatest  singularity  about 
their  dress  was  the  peculiar  mutton-legged  sleeve,  specimens  of 
which  may  sometimes  be  seen  on  the  arrival  of  emigrants  in 
New  York. 

The  town  of  Augsburg  is  old ;  it  has  a  population  of  thirty 
thousand,  and  is  quite  a  manufacturing  place.  Some  fine  bronze 
antique  fountains,  the  Rathhaus,  or  town  hall,  the  cannon 
foundry,  and  a  fine  collection  of  richly  ornamented  brass  pieces, 
are  the  principal  objects  to  be  seen.  The  old  hotel,  which  is 
well  kept,  d'ates  under  the  sign  of  the  Three  Moors  for  five 
hundred  years.  The  landlord  brags  of  his  old  wines,  and  takes 
pleasure  in  showing  his  cellars.  The  old  register  book  is  a 
curiosity,  with  the  names  of  Napoleon,  "Wellington,  Sir  Walter 
Scott,  and  a  host  of  others,  both  kings  and  princes.  In  one  of 
the  rooms  Napoleon  received  the  Augsburg  magistrates,  and  told 
them  with  sang-froid,  that  their  city  was  free  no  longer,  and  that 
the  king  of  Bavaria  was  now  their  sovereign.  There  are  other 
incidents  related  of  the  house,  and  valued  by  the  master.  This 
reminds  me  of  the  Hotel  Fedder  where  I  stopped  in  Genoa, 
where  they  now  show  the  gilded  rooms  of  what  was  once  a 
palace,  where  Daniel  O'Connell  died.  Those  who  wish  to  make 
the  pilgrimage  will  find  good  quarters,  but  must  not  be  surprised 
if  a  small  tribute  is  added  to  the  bill. 


160  ULM  AND  STUTTGART. 


XLI. 

Frankfort,  Germany,  1848. 

From  Municli  I  proceeded  to  Ulm,  the  frontier  town  of 
Wiirtemberg,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Danube  from  Bavaria. 
The  Gothic  cathedral  there  is  the  most  curious  object  for  a 
stranger,  and  is  now  a  Protestant  church.  The  body  of  this 
church  is  the  largest  in  Germany,  and  is  a  second  St.  Peter's  in 
size,  being  four  hundred  and  sixteen  feet  long,  one  hundred  and 
sixty-six  feet  wide,  and  one  hundred  and  forty-four  feet  high, 
with  five  aisles ;  the  terrace  is  unfinished,  and  is  three  hundred 
and  thirty-seven  feet  high.  There  are  some  fine  old  stained 
glass  windows,  and  some  remarkable  carved  work  in  the 
building. 

I  had  once  tasted  of  snail  soup  in  Naples,  which,  during  the 
season  of  Lent,  is  considered  a  great  delicacy,  but  I  did  not 
know,  until  I  came  to  Ulm,  that  there  was  a  snail  market. 
They  say  they  export  millions  of  them  yearly  into  Austria,  and 
other  parts  of  the  country.  They  are  produced  in  the  vicinity, 
and  put  up  in  casks  for  exportation. 

From  Ulm  I  went  to  Stuttgart,  by  diligence.  It  is  the  royal 
residence  of  the  king  of  Wiirtemberg,  who  is  so  celebrated  for 
his  love  of  horses.  I  saw  him  driving  a  fine  pair,  of  the 
Hungarian  Esterhazy  breed,  through  the  park,  with  apparent 
satisfoction.  The  manager  of  the  stables  of  the  Prince  is  an 
Englishman.  The  prince  married  a  Eussian  princess,  the 
daughter  of  the  Emperor  Nicholas,  and  had  some  Eussian 
carriages  and  droskys  with  a  Eussian  driver  in  costume — the 
first  I  had  seen. 

This  Englishman  accompanied  me  through  the  Crown  Prince 
and  King's  stables,  and  showed  the  horses  belonging  to  govern- 
ment for  the  improvement  of  stock.  I  counted  in  all  two 
hundred  and  ten  belonging  to  the  king  and  his  son,  and  one 
hundred  and  eighty  for  the  account  of  the  crown.  Arabian, 
Eussian,  Hungarian,  English,  and  Persian  horses  are  to  be  found 
here.  The  stables,  the  harness  rooms,  and  carriage  repositories 
were  on  a  grand  scale ;  but  the  sovereign  people  will  say  when 
the  time  comes,  "The  expenses  are  too  great ;  we  cannot  submit 
any  longer  to  these  extravagances," 


BADEN  BADEN.  161 

Stuttgart  is  a  well-built  and  interesting  city,  surrounded  by 
hills  covered  with  the  grape,  with  fine  palace-gardens  and  a  park, 
traversed  by  carriage  roads  and  promenades  for  some  miles. 

I  went  to  Kannstadt,  some  four  or  five  miles  from  the  city,  to 
the  mineral  springs,  which  are  much  frequented  by  the  inhabitants. 
The  railroad  passes  through  the  place,  and  there  are  agreeable 
walks  to  return,  for  pedestrians,  along  the  valley  of  the  river 
Ncckar,  and  through  the  palace  park  to  the  city. 

From  Stuttgart  I  made  my  way  by  diligence  to  Carlsruhe, 
and  here  struck  the  railroad  for  Baden  Baden,  Carlsruhe  has 
not  much  of  interest  for  the  traveller.  It  is  the  capital  of  the 
Grand  Duchy  of  Baden,  is  dull,  with  sandy  soil,  but  being  a 
royal  residence,  has  a  very  fine  park.  It  is  curiously  built,  and 
is  described  by  a  writer  as  being  in  the  form  of  a  fan,  or  rather  a 
wheel — the  main  streets,  like  the  spokes,  all  radiate  from  the 
Palace,  which  terminates  the  vista  in  every  street,  so  that  the 
citizens  who  wish  to  know  which  way  the  wind  blows  need 
only  look  to  the  palace  weather-cock. 

Everybody  has  heard  of  Baden  Baden,  so  famous  as  a 
fashionable  watering-place,  and  all  who  have  visited  it  can 
speak  of  the  beauty  of  its  locality,  surrounded  by  hills  and 
mountains,  and  its  narrow  valley  with  its  delightful  shady 
walks ;  but  this  year  they  are  quite  deserted.  The  princes 
have  enough  to  do  to  take  care  of  their  subjects ;  citizens 
remain  at  home  to  look  after  their  interests ;  the  blapklegs  find 
their  avocation  almost  gone.  There  is  not  one-third  the  usual 
number  of  arrivals,  consequently  the  balls,  concerts,  and  gaming 
tables  are  less  frequented. 

Baden  Baden  is  certainly  a  lovely  spot  for  the  invalid,  or  the 
man  of  pleasure;  combining  the  advantages  of  public  life,  or 
solitude  in  the  dark  woods,  which  can  be  reached  in  a  few 
minutes.  As  I  before  observed,  all  have  heard  of  Baden  Baden, 
so  all  have  heard  of  the  Castle  of  Heidelberg,  which  is  a  magni- 
ficent ruin,  and  formerly  the  palace  and  fortress  of  the  Elector 
Palatine.  It  is  situated  upon  a  high  hill,  and  approached  by  a 
winding  footpath  on  the  side  of  the  city.  It  was  one  of  the 
strongholds  of  the  middle  ages,  and  is  of  different  styles  of 
architecture  by  different  founders,  and  has  been  burnt  at  different 
times  and  rebuilt.  It  was  last  bnrnt  by  lightning,,  and  remains 
a  ruin,  although  parts  are  quite  perfect. 

11 


162  MANNHEIM  AND  DARMSTADT. 

One  guide  takes  you  through  all  the  castle,  and  shows  the 
relics  and  implements  of  war  yet  preserved,  mounts  the  bastions 
and  towers,  from  which  the  view  is  unsurpassed ;  another  con- 
ducts you  into  the  cellar  of  the  castle,  to  see  the  famous  Wine 
Tun,  which  is  the  largest  in  the  world,  and  contained  eight 
hundred  hogsheads,  or  nearly  three  hundred  thousand  bottles, 
and,  it  is  said,  in  former  times,  when  filled  with  the  fruit  of  the 
vintage,  they  danced  on  the  platform.  This  tun  will  not  com- 
pare with  a  vat  I  once  saw  in  the  immense  brewing  establishment 
of  Barclay,  Perkins  &  Co.,  of  London,  which  contained  four 
thousand  hogsheads  of  porter. 

Mannheim  is  only  a  short  distance  from  Heidelberg,  and  is  a 
city  of  some  twenty  thousand  inhabitants,  but  possesses  nothing 
of  sufficient  interest  to  the  traveller  to  detain  him  long.  The 
gardens  behind  the  palaces,  and  terraces  along  the  banks  of  the 
Ehine,  are  quite  pretty.  It  was  once  a  walled  city,  but  was 
besieged  by  the  French  and  reduced  to  ashes,  and  now  has  no 
protection,  which,  as  experience  has  proved,  saves  a  city  from 
the  horrors  of  a  siege. 

The  city  next  on  my  route  to  Frankfort  was  Darmstadt,  the 
capital  of  the  Grand  Duke.  The  gardens  of  the  palace  are 
beautifully  laid  out,  and  all  through  this  section  of  country 
vegetation  is  very  luxuriant.  The  rides  through  the  country 
with  the  villages  and  towns  prettily  located  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  overhung  with  clusters  of  grapes,  and  surrounded 
with  orchards,  make  it  very  interesting  for  the  traveller. 

This  free  city  of  Frankfort,  which  I  visited  some  years  ago, 
has  more  the  air  of  life  and  bustle,  I  find,  than  many  other 
German  cities,  which  may  in  part  be  attributed  to  the  fact  that 
there  are  now  many  strangers  from  all  parts  of  Germany,  as 
members  of  the  Confederation,  and  for  the  reception  of  the  new 
Vicar  General  of  the  German  Union,  the  Archduke  John,  of 
Austria,  who  has  just  been  received  with  great  honors  by  the 
military,  succeeded  by  an  illumination  of  the  whole  city — a  very 
splendid  affair.  The  immense  circular  church — now  converted 
into  an  Assembly  for  the  representatives  of  the  whole  German 
Empire,  comprising  six  hundred,  and  which  with  the  galleries 
extending  all  around,  will  hold  perhaps  more  persons  than  the 
Tabernacle  in  New  York — was  filled  to  overflowing  on  the 
presentation  of  the   Prince   to   the   Assembly.     I   could  with 


FRANKFORT.  163 

difficulty  procure  a  seat  by  going  early,  and  immense  numbers 
were  obliged  to  withdraw  for  want  of  room.  Numerous 
addresses  were  delivered,  to  which  the  Archduke  responded. 
He  was  dressed  in  uniform,  and  accompanied  by  the  whole  force 
of  the  National  Guard  to  the  National  Assembly.  He  looked 
calm  and  dignified,  with  a  good  expression  of  face,  and  is  sixty- 
six  years  old.  His  task  will  be  arduous,  as  well  as  that  of  the 
assembly,  to  amalgamate  the  different  races  and  sects  of  the 
German  and  Austrian  Empire,  and  will  not  be  accomplished 
until  more  blood  flows. 

I  assure  you  I  was  greatly  rejoiced  to  arrive  at  Frankfort,  which 
is  an  interesting  city,  and  has  many  sights  to  interest  a  stranger. 
I  was  pleased  to  arrive  in  a  city  where  I  could  so  agreeably 
repose  myself.  The  gardens  and  pleasure  grounds  which  encircle 
Frankfort,  occupy  the  place  of  former  fortifications,  and  make  a 
delightful  retreat  for  the  inhabitants  during  the  warm  weather. 
The  principal  garden  among  the  number  was  beautifully  illumi- 
nated the  night  following  the  reception  of  Prince  John,  and  as 
the  German  bands  always  afford  good  music,  all  the  ^lite  were 
found  sipping  coffee  and  partaking  of  ices,  and  other  refresh- 
ments. 

This  is  the  residence  of  many  bankers,  and  here  the  Kothschilds 
were  born,  in  the  Judenstrasse  or  Jews'  street,  and  when  I  was 
last  here  I  went  to  see  the  house  where  the  mother  still 
resided,  and  refused  to  give  up  the  old  confined  quarters  for  the 
palace  of  her  son.  The  condition  of  the  Jews  has  been  much 
ameliorated  here  as  well  as  in  all  parts  of  Europe. 

When  I  first  saw  the  Jews'  quarters  in  Rome,  under  Pope 
Gregory  XVI.,  they  were  confined  within  small  limits,  in  narrow, 
dark,  dirty  lanes  and  streets,  where  the  sun's  rays  scarcely  reached 
them ;  a  population  of  about  six  thousand  huddled  together  in 
filth,  by  daylight,  when  the  gates  were  open,  carrying  on  their 
trade  in  old  clothes,  second-hand  articles  of  all  kinds,  ready- 
made  clothing,  &c.  But  thanks  to  the  liberal  mind  of  Pope 
Pius  IX.,  "the  gates  have  been  beaten  down  and  the  Jews  may 
now  be  seen  locating  themselves  in  other  parts  of  the  city^ 
although  the  mass  prefer  to  keep  together. 

My  health  not  being  yet  established,  I  have  consulted  a  cele- 
brated physician,  of  the  race  I  have  just  spoken  of,  who  advises 
me  to  drink  the  waters    of  Ems,  recommended   highly  for  all 


164  EMS. 

pulmonary  and  bronchial  diseases,  and  I  shall  go  via  Wiesbaden 
and  Schwalbach  to  the  above-named  place,  and  make  trial  of 
them. 


XL. 

Bath  of  Ems,  Duche  de  Nassau,  1848. 

After  leaving  Frankfort  I  came  to  Wiesbaden  via  Mayence, 
by  railroad,  which  is  rapidly  accomplished,  but  being  familiar 
with  those  places  my  stay  was  short,  and  I  took  the  diligence  to 
the  Baths  of  Schwalbach,  and  from  thence  to  this  place,  where  I 
bought  a  Bohemian  stained  glass  goblet,  an  indispensable  article 
to  every  water  drinker,  and  took  up  my  position  at  the  fountain 
in  the  line  of  invalids. 

Ems  has  been  entirely  quiet  and  tranquil,  and  seems  to  stand 
aloof  from  the  Kevolutions  all  around  us.  Almost  every  house 
is  a  lodging-house  or  hotel,  and  the  people  and  peasantry  have 
an  interest  in  keeping  quiet. 

About  one  thousand  strangers  are  here  at  present,  the  larger 
portion  in  pursuit  of  health,  and  society  is  more  select  and  less 
gay  than  at  the  other  watering  places.  The  balls,  concerts,  and 
gaming  tables  are  less  frequented  than  in  Baden  Baden  and 
Wiesbaden.  The  musical  band  commences  at  seven  in  the 
morning  in  the  promenade,  and  continues  playing  until  eight, 
during  which  time  the  drinkers  swallow  their  three  or  four 
glasses  at  intervals  of  fifteen  minutes,  while  the  physicians  are 
mingling  with  their  patients  to  inquire  after  their  health,  and 
give  counsel,  if  needed.  One  o'clock  is  the  table  d'hote,  in  all 
the  hotels,  when  everybody  dines ;  after  which  the  company 
adjourn  and  take  coffee  in  the  walks  in  the  garden,  listening  to  the 
music ;  or  go  in  parties  of  pleasure  along  the  banks  of  the  beau- 
tiful river  Lahn,  or  cross  over  the  bridge  of  boats  to  the  opposite 
side  and  branch  off  among  the  hills  and  cliffs,  by  the  footwalks 
which  extend  in  every  direction.  Droves  of  donke3^s  with  their 
drivers  are  always  at  hand,  and  are  all  numbered,  which  is  a 
good  idea,  as  they  are  not  all  surefooted,  and  when  one  is  proved 
can  always  be  engaged  in  advance,  which  is  important  for  the 
ladies,  as  large  numbers  scale  the  hills  and  vine-clad  heights  in 
this  manner. 


THE   NEW   KURSAAL.  165 

From  six  to  eight  in  the  afternoon,  when  the  heat  is  less 
intense,  Ems  is  seen  to  best  advantage.  Then  all  the  visitors 
appear  upon  the  public  walks,  and  the  ladies,  of  whom  there  is 
a  large  proportion,  as  it  is  considered  essentially  a  ladies'  water- 
ing-place, are  promenading  in  the  garden,  en  grande  toilette,  or 
seated  under  the  shady  trees  listening  to  the  music  from  the 
band. 

Almost  every  house  has  its  name,  and  where  I  am  living, 
upon  the  banks  of  the  river  Lahn,  it  is  called  Lust  Garten,  or 
in  English,  the  Pleasure  Garden.  The  high  walls  with  a  sort 
of  terrace  separate  us  from  the  river,  with  a  beautiful  garden 
adorned  with  plants  and  flowers,  which  gives  the  house  its 
name ;  in  the  rear  of  the  garden  rise  the  cliffs  to  a  great  eleva- 
tion, which  are  walled,  and  covered  with  the  clustering  grape. 
The  town  is  so  shut  in  by  hills  that  sometimes  the  heat  is  oppres- 
sive, but  in  a  few  minutes  one  may  escape  into  the  woods  and 
winding  paths  on  the  opposite  side. 

Notwithstanding  among  so  many  persons  there  are  numbers 
in  good  health  who  accompany  their  friends  thither,  and  who 
can  enjoy  life,  and  many  whose  ailings  are  trivial,  and  who  need 
not  deprive  themselves  of  luxuries,  still  there  are  many,  very 
many,  real  sufferers,  who  naturally  put  the  best  foot  foremost,  and 
keep  up  appearances ;  but  the  hollow  cough  and  the  hectic 
flush  tell  too  truly  of  the  ravages  of  that  disease  which  is  so 
flattering. 

One  of  the  vices  of  these  watering-places  is  that  of  gambling. 
The  new  Kursaal  built  by  the  Grand  Duke,  has  a  handsome 
Cafe,  gambling  rooms,  with  hazard  tables,  and  is  open  from  eleven 
to  one  o'clock  and  from  three  to  ten  in  the  afternoon.  A  large 
ball-room  is  attached,  with  marble  columns,  sofas,  and  rich 
furniture.  Although  there  is  less  gambling  here  than  at  other 
places,  still  there  is  too  much,  and  it  is  curious  that  some  ladies 
have  also  a  great  propensity  for  gaming.  At  a  public  festival 
the  other  evening,  on  the  occasion  of  the  birthday  of  the  Grand 
Duke  (in  the  Kursaal),  I  was  in  company  with  several  ladies, 
and  the  husband  of  one  of  the  number,  whom  I  considered  a 
decided  invalid  and  a  man  of  fortune,  was  at  the  gaming  table. 
He  had  previously  won,  but  fortune  had  turned  against  him ; 
he  continued  to  lose;  his  friends  begged  him  to  desist ;  his  wife 
watched  him  with  tearful  interest;  I  saw  the  hectic  flush  upon 


166  AROUND   EMS. 

his  cheek,  and  the  perspiration  starting  from  his  forehead ;  he 
staked  the  last  piece  of  gold  in  his  purse ;  suffice  it  to  say  he 
lost,  and  in  an  agitated  state  we  induced  him  to  leave  the  room. 
A  few  days  later  he  left  for  Switzerland. 

With  the  exception  of  a  Russian  family  whom  I  met  in  Nice 
and  Genoa,  I  have  not  found  any  of  the  Italian  travellers  of 
last  winter ;  but  one  is  not  at  a  loss  for  acquaintances,  for  here  are 
French,  Germans,  Russians,  Hollanders,  English,  and  a  few 
Italians,  and  as  I  have  been  a  sufferer  myself,  and  was  in  pos- 
session of  some  medical  works  and  treatises  for  the  diseases  of 
the  chest  and  bronchial  tubes,  which  were  new,  my  physician 
adopted  them  for  his  patients,  which  brought  me  in  contact  with 
them. 

We  have  excursions  up  along  the  river  to  Nassau,  about  six 
miles,  which  can  be  made  by  carriage  or  donkey.  Among  these, 
are  rides  to  Kenmau,  back  of  Ems,  which  can  be  accomplished  after 
dinner,  and  where  one  has  a  very  expanded  view  from  the  top 
of  the  mountain  of  the  whole  country  lying  below.  One  goes 
to  Coblentz  in  about  two  hours  by  omnibus,  where  passengers 
arrive  coming  up  the  Rhine  to  visit  Ems.  This,  the  great 
bulwark  of  Germany,  and  the  castle  of  Ehrenbreitstein,  the 
Gibraltar  of  the  Rhine,  standing  on  the  summit  of  a  rock  nearly 
eight  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river,  opposite  Co- 
blentz, together  with  the  defences  on  both  banks  of  the  Rhine, 
and  the  Moselle,  which  there  falls  into  the  former,  are  capable  of 
containing  a  force  which  might  resist  any  attack,  and  are  considered 
impregnable.  The  road  hence  to  Coblentz  is  very  pretty,  and 
the  residents  at  the  Baths  frequently  go  down  to  do  their  shop- 
ping. In  passing  the  turnpike  gate  I  was  amused  at  the  manner 
of  receiving  the  tolls.  The  turnpike  keeper,  instead  of  coming 
out  and  taking  the  fee,  sits  smoking  his  hanging  meerschaum 
pipe,  and  with  a  slow  movement  rises  with  his  pipe  in  his 
mouth,  and  in  his  hand  a  long  stick  with  a  box  on  the  end, 
which  he  shoves  forward  and  receives  the  coin,  he  then  draws 
in  his  prize  and  closes  the  window. 

The  Germans  are  a  quiet,  patient,  forbearing,  good-natured 
people,  but  the  revolution  in  France  awoke  them  to  a  sense  of 
their  rights,  and  the  despotism  of  kings  and  petty  princes, 
which  they  are  trying  to  shake  off.  At  Ehrenbreitstein  castle  I 
saw  them  making  preparations  for  the  Schleswig  Ilolstein  war 


COLOGNE.  167 

witli  the  Danes,  having  just  received  orders  from  the  Prussian 
king  to  send  on  a  body  of  troops. 

These  waters  are  of  great  service  in  most  pulmonary  cases, 
but  I  find  the  free  use  of  them  and  strict  regimen  in  eating  is 
calculated  to  weaken  the  stomach  and  appetite,  and  the  associat- 
ing with  invalids  and  hearing  their  repeated  complaints  and 
sufferings,  is  anything  but  agreeable,  and  calculated  to  operate 
upon  the  spirits,  as  mind  has  a  great  effect  over  matter. 


XLIII. 

Copenhagen,  Denmark,  1848. 

1  FLOATED  down  the  Ehine  from  Coblentz  to  Cologne,  review- 
ing my  recollections  of  the  localities  of  that  beautiful  river,  ren- 
dered doubly  interesting  from  its  historical  associations  and  old 
legends,  with  all  its  varieties  of  wild  and  picturesque  scenery ; 
towns  and  villages  and  fertile  plains  upon  its  banks ;  thick  for- 
ests and  vine-clad  hills,  and  old  chateaus,  and  rivers  in  the  dis- 
tance. 

I  remained  but  a  single  day  in  Cologne.  The  great  Cathedral, 
which  was  begun  in  1248,  and  which  would  have  been,  if  com- 
pleted, one  of  the  finest  Gothic  monuments  in  Europe,  with 
towers  five  hundred  feet  high,  has  been  left  in  an  unfinished 
state  for  centuries,  but  of  late  years  the  king  of  Prussia  has 
made  large  appropriations  towards  its  repairs  and  gradual  com- 
pletion. I  find  the  work  has  progressed  moderately,  and  the 
king  of  Bavaria  has  made  a  splendid  present  of  stained  glass 
windows,  which  will  be  exhibited  publicly  in  a  few  da,js,  when 
the  centennial  anniversary  of  the  Cathedral  takes  place,  and  there 
will  be  a  great  re-union  of  kings,  princes,  and  plebeians.  A  few 
years  since  when  I  was  in  Prussia,  and  travelled  by  private  post, 
or  the  conveyances  of  the  country,  it  occupied  much  more  time 
in  making  distance,  but  one  saw  the  country  to  better  advantage ; 
now  the  railroads  are  constructed  in  many  parts,  and  the  travel- 
ler is  transported  from  one  city  to  another  with  locomotive 
speed. 

I  came  from  Cologne  to  Hanover  and  Brunswick,  and  then 
retraced  my  steps  in  order  to  visit  Bremen,  and  from  thence 
returned,  via  Hanover,   to  take  my  departure  for  Hamburg, 


168  HANOVER. 

accomplisliing  tlie  entire  distance  by  railway  with  less  fatigue 
and  in  less  time  than  if  I  had  crossed  the  country,  which  is  a 
much  shorter  way ;  but  one  is  exposed  to  night  travel  and  the 
want  of  pure  air,  as  the  Germans  have  a  horror  of  an  open  win- 
dow, and  are  constantly  enveloped  in  a  cloud  of  smoke.  On 
some  of  the  German  railways  they  have  third  and  fourth  class 
cars.  In  France  and  Belgium,  and  in  fact  all  over  Europe,  the 
genteel  traveller  takes  the  first  class  car;  not  so  in  Germany, 
for  there  the  second  class  is  almost  as  well  mounted  as  the  first, 
and  is  part  of  the  same  car  with  partitions ;  the  third  class 
receives  those  who  like  more  air,  free  smoking,  economy,  and 
hard  seats.  The  Germans  say  that  none  but  princes  and  fools 
take  first  class  cars ;  but  if  one  must  pass  a  part  of  the  night  on 
the  railroad,  and  wishes  to  be  quiet  with  a  car  to  himself,  with- 
out society,  then  they  are  preferable.  On  some  of  the  German 
roads  no  luggage  is  carried  free ;  on  others  from  thirty  to  fifty 
pounds  are  allowed  the  passenger;  in  some  instances  for  five 
pounds  overweight  of  the  scale,  which  varies  on  the  different 
roads,  I  have  paid  as  much  as  an  American  dollar — a  caution 
to  those  who  make  long  voyages  with  much  luggage. 

Hanover,  the  residence  of  the  old  king  Ernest,  is  on  the  river 
Leine,  with  a  population  of  some  thirty  thousand  inhabitants. 
It  is  a  curious  old  town,  with  peculiar  Gothic  houses,  and  is 
remarkable  for  a  superfluity  of  windows,  which,  if  they  were 
subject  to  the  light  tax  of  England,  would  soon  ruin  their 
owners.  The  Esplanade,  in  which  stands  the  Waterloo  Monu- 
ment, a  column  one  hundred  and  fifty -six  feet  high,  with  a  statue 
of  Victory,  dedicated  to  the  Hungarians  who  fell  in  that  conflict, 
presented  a  gay  scene,  on  the  occasion  of  a  Sunday  parade  of  all 
the  troops,  prior  to  the  reception  of  the  king  of  Prussia,  who 
was  expected  to  halt  there  while  on  his  way  to  the  Cologne  cele- 
bration. 

I  had  a  view  from  the  top  of  the  column  of  a  rich,  fertile,  and 
beautiful  country  lying  in  the  distance,  with  the  turn-out  of  the 
citizens  and  peasantry  in  holiday  attire,  after  the  church  service 
of  the  morning,  and  the  evolutions  of  the  horse,  artillery,  and 
infantry,  near  the  base  of  the  column,  and  an  imposing  sight  it 
was.  I  had  seen  most  of  the  monarchs  of  Europe  in  my  journey- 
ings,  except  King  William,  who  was  absent  when  I  was  at  Pots- 
dam, his  residence ;  but  here  I  had  the  opportunity  of  seeing  his 


BRUNSWICK.  169 

reception  and  all  his  courtiers,  witli  all  that  famous  troop  of 
cream-colored  and  black  horses,  of  the  English  breed,  from  the 
royal  stables. 

Brunswick,  the  capital  of  another  of  these  German  princes, 
who  have  so  long  tried  to  outvie  each  other  in  the  splendor  of 
their  palaces,  parks,  &c.,  to  the  detriment  of  their  subjects,  is  a 
very  old  city  of  thirty-five  thousand  inhabitants.  The  palace  is 
a  tasteful  and  splendid  building.  It  is  said  that  the  old  one  was 
burnt  by  some  of  the  citizens,  who  were  obliged  to  replace  it  by 
a  much  more  costly  and  beautiful  edifice,  and  the  Duke  is  now 
sumptuously  quartered.  The  antiquity  of  the  city  strikes  the 
eye  of  a  stranger,  particularly  the  gable-ends  of  the  houses  to  the 
streets,  steep  roofs  with  rows  of  windows  in  them,  and  the 
immense  number  of  windows  in  the  fronts.  The  famous  corps 
of  Black  Brunswickers  was  parading  in  the  palace  grounds — the 
first  of  this  uniform  I  had  ever  seen — and  looked  frightful. 
They  wore  black  cloth  uniform,  slightly  relieved,  and  black  horse- 
hair plumes  with  death's-head  and  cross-bones ;  they  are  said  to 
be  valorous,  and  particularly  attached  to  the  Duke. 

The  railroad  depot  at  Brunswick  is  very  splendid ;  in  fact, 
in  several  parts  of  Germany  the  depots  are  furnished  in  the 
most  sumptuous  style,  the  buildings  in  some  places  being  like 
palaces  of  Gothic  architecture,  some  with  towers,  and  the  wait- 
ing saloons  of  the  first  and  second  class  passengers  furnished 
with  sofas  and  divans,  covered  with  rich  stuflfs ;  in  short,  they 
have  spent  too  much  money  for  the  interest  of  the  shareholders. 

On  visiting  Bremen,  I  was  struck  with  that  air  of  cleanliness 
and  comfort  which  one  finds  in  Holland.  It  is  one  of  the  free 
cities  of  Germany,  lying  on  the  river  Weser,  and  one  with 
which  we  have  a  growing  trade.  I  expected  to  find  the  steamer 
Washington  there,  as  her  commander.  Captain  Johnson,  came 
■from  our  section  of  country  ;  but  she  lay  down  the  river,  at 
Bremerhaven,  and  was  just  about  departing.  The  city  has  a 
population  of  some  forty-five  thousand,  and  has  fine  new  white 
houses  upon  the  streets,  which  front  the  walks,  and  boulevards 
which  extend  around  the  city. 

The  quantity  of  tobacco  imported  from  America  is  immense; 
it  is  manufactured  here  and  sent  through  all  Germany,  and  one 
sees  the  names  of  all  our  states  and  towns  noted  for  "the  weed" 
figuring  in  the  shop  windows. 


170  HAMBUKG. 

The  old  town  is  quite  like  the  other  German  towns,  and  has 
some  curiosities.  The  old  cathedral  has  a  vault  which  contains 
some  bodies  which  have  been  preserved  from  decomposition  for 
centuries.  But  an  exhibition  of  this  kind  at  Bordeaux  is  most 
curious;  for  there  are  the  remains  of  some  twenty  persons, 
whose  history  is  known  from  the  tomb-stones ;  when  disinterred 
they  were  found,  from  the  peculiarity  of  the  soil,  with  the  flesh 
only  wasted.  The  mummies  were  placed  around  the  low  vault, 
lighted  by  torches ;  and  among  the  number  was  a  colossal  man 
who  killed  himself  by  a  trial  of  strength;  another,  a  girl  buried 
in  a  trance,  and  now  exhibiting  all  the  horrible  forms  and  ago- 
nies of  starvation  and  despair,  with  a  portion  of  her  own  body 
devoured. 

On  my  arrival  at  Hamburg,  I  found  the  river  Elbe,  upon 
which  it  stands,  blockaded  by  the  Danes,  and  the  merchants 
complaining  bitterly.  This  city  is  eighty  miles  from  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  and  is  divided  in  many  places  by  canals  and  crossed 
by  bridges ;  and  in  the  old  town,  the  houses,  bridges,  and  quays 
reminded  me  of  Amsterdam.  The  city  has  a  population  of  some 
one  hundred  and  forty  thousand,  and  possesses  an  immense 
amount  of  commerce.  The  great  fire  a  few  years  ago  has  been 
the  means  of  beautifying  that  portion  of  the  city  which  was 
destroyed,  for  now  the  burnt  district  is  rebuilt,  and  will  com- 
pare for  splendor  with  any  of  the  continental  cities.  The  old 
fortifications  and  ramparts  around  the  city  are  now,  as  in  many 
other  capitals,  thrown  down,  and  covered  with  trees,  plants,  and 
flowers,  which  afford  a  breathing-place  for  the  inhabitants,  and 
a  delightful  promenade. 

There  are  no  remarkable  collections  of  art,  or  curiosities  for  a 
stranger,  in  Hamburg.  The  promenades  in  the  gardens,  the 
cafes  crowded  with  both  sexes,  the  sight  of  the  water  parties,  in 
their  gaily  painted  boats,  a  stroll  through  the  gardens  in  the 
evening,  listening  to  the  music,  and  viewing  the  dances  and 
waltzes  of  all  classes,  is  quite  sufficient  to  occupy  the  time  of  a 
traveller.  I  met  here,  at  the  same  hotel,  an  old  travelling 
acquaintance,  who  left  me  in  the  West  Indies  some  three  years 
ago,  and  who  had  since  made  the  campaign  of  Mexico.  I 
allude  to  Mr.  Kendall,  of  the  Neio  Orleans  Picayune,  who  is 
now  writing  a  history  of  the  war.  In  walking  out  together, 
said  he,   "  Do  you  see  that  coffin  ?    TJiere  goes  another  coffin  !  "  And 


LUBECK.  171 

in  fact  so  it  appeared  to  be.  The  servant  girls  and  cooks  rarely 
go  out  without  being  gaily  dressed ;  at  all  events,  a  splendid 
shawl  is  arranged  under  the  arm  so  as  to  cover  a  basket  in  the 
exact  form  of  a  child's  coffin  ;  and  it  matters  not  whether  it  is 
fish,  butter,  cheese,  or  dirty  clothes  for  the  wash,  it  must  always 
be  covered  with  a  shawl. 

Altona,  a  populous  town  and  a  part  of  the  Duchy  of  Holstein, 
belongs  to  Denmark,  and  is  now  in  dispute ;  it  is  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  Hamburg,  so  that  the  two  cities  have  almost 
grown  together.  I  there  found  troops  collecting  together  from  the 
different  German  states,  to  go  forward  to  Schleswig  and  Holstein. 

The  distance  from  Hamburg  to  Lubeck,  where  I  took  the 
steamer  for  Copenhagen,  is  about  forty-five  miles,  and  is  made 
by  diligence.  We  were  three  in  the  coupe,  or  front  apartment 
of  the  vehicle ;  and  to  my  surprise,  for  the  first  time  in  Grer- 
many,  my  companions  did  not  smoke  either  pipe  or  cigar. 

The  free  town  of  Lubeck  is  a  very  antiquated  place,  with  its 
Gothic  churches,  and  venerable  public  buildings,  and  has  not 
changed  very  much  in  general  appearance  since  the  days  of  its 
prosperity.  Its  population  is  not  one  half  of  what  the  city  is 
capable  of  containing ;  and  the  lifeless  streets,  in  many  parts 
overgrown  with  grass,  tell  the  story  of  deserted  commerce. 
There  is  sufficient,  however,  of  interest  here  to  keep  the  travel- 
ler a  day  or  two,  to  look  at  the  old  paintings  and  other  works 
of  art  in  the  churches,  some  of  which  are  very  superior.  One 
of  the  paintings  upon  wood,  of  the  style  of  the  fifteenth  century, 
would  compare  with  those  at  Florence.  It  was  a  representation 
of  the  events  of  the  Passion  of  our  Saviour,  from  the  agony  in 
the  garden  to  the  resurrection,  depicted  in  twenty-three  distinct 
groups  introduced  in  the  landscape,  in  the  background  of  which 
appears  Jerusalem.  Another  very  curious  painting,  occupying 
three  sides  of  one  room,  was  The  Dance  of  Death,  with  the 
Pope,  the  bishop,  the  king,  the  merchant,  the  banker,  and  others, 
all  in  appropriate  dress,  with  dialogues  inscribed  above  them ; 
but  the  skeleton  Death  always  had  the  advantage.  It  has  been 
preserved  since  the  fourteenth  century,  and  is  only  valuable  for 
the  design,  which  is  curious. 

The  passage  from  Lubeck,  by  steamer,  to  Copenhagen,  was 
made  in  less  than  twenty-four  hours.  This  residence  and  capital 
of  the  King  of  Denmark  is  a  large  commercial  cit}-,  with  a  popu- 


172  COPENHAGEN. 

lation  of  some  two  hundred  thousand  inhabitants.  The  Danes, 
being  surrounded  by  water,  have  naturally  become  good  sailors, 
and  their  greatest  strength  in  carrying  on  the  war  consists  in 
their  fleet,  with  which  they  have  captured  and  now  have  one 
hundred  and  ten  German  vessels  in  port.  It  is  quite  amusing  in 
going  from  one  country  to  another  to  look  at  the  caricatures  in 
the  shop  windows ;  in  Germany,  the  Danes  are  escaping  from  the 
battle-grounds  in  awful  plight,  but  here  the  tables  are  turned 
and  the  Dutchmen  have  got  the  worst  of  it. 

The  palaces  and  parks  are  not  very  remarkable,  but  there  are 
some  fine  gardens  and  places  of  resort  for  the  multitude,  one  of 
which,  the  Tivoli,  is  fitted  up  with  much  taste.  Those  who 
want  amusements,  in  the  way  of  theatres,  jugglers,  singing, 
miniature  railroads,  or  a  look  at  the  zoological  collections,  can 
have  their  choice  here.  The  grounds  of  the  cemetery  are  very 
extensive  and  beautifully  laid  out,  as  is  the  case  in  most  parts  of 
Germany,  and  I  have  in  very  many  cases  visited  them.  The 
greatest  respect  is  paid  by  friends  to  the  ashes  of  the  dead  ;  it  is 
gratifying  to  see  mothers  and  sisters  quietly  employed  in  pluck- 
ing the  weeds  from  among  the  blooming  flowers,  and  watering 
the  plants  growing  over  the  graves  of  those  they  loved.  They 
have  a  custom  here  of  embanking  the  borders  of  the  grave  with 
white  sand,  while  on  the  top  are  presented  beautiful  little  flower 
gardens  under  the  shade  of  the  weeping  willow  and  other  trees. 

This  was  the  birth-place  of  the  celebrated  sculptor  Thorwald- 
sen,  whose  studio  I  visited  in  Eome  some  years  ago,  and  who 
has  since  died,  leaving  the  bulk  of  his  property  to  found  a 
Museum  for  his  vast  collection  of  art.  In  one  of  the  churches  is 
seen  his  colossal  figure  of  Christ,  elevated  on  a  pedestal  behind 
the  altar,  with  the  twelve  apostles  ranged  on  both  sides  of  the 
body  of  the  church,  and  in  an  apartment  of  this  same  building 
rest  the  mortal  remains  of  this  great  artist,  until  the  museum  is 
complete,  when  they  will  be  transported  thither,  and  rest  with 
the  wonderful  works  produced  by  the  skill  of  his  hands.  It  is  a 
large  building,  centrally  situated,  with  spacious  halls  and  apart- 
ments filled  with  the  originals  in  marble  and  plaster,  or  copies  in 
marble  of  the  great  works  of  this  man  which  are  found  in  Italy 
and  all  parts  of  Europe,  and  it  appears  only  surprising  that  even 
in  living  to  an  advanced  age  he  could  have  executed  so  much  in 
one  life-time. 


GOTTENBURG.  173 


XLIV. 

Christiania,  Norway,  1848. 
From  Copenhagen  to  Gottenburg,  in  Sweden,  is  about  one 
hundi'ed  and  twenty-five  miles.  The  steamer  strikes  up  and 
through  the  Straits  of  Cattegat,  touching  at  Elsinore,  the  strong- 
hold of  the  Danes,  where  there  is  a  beautiful  citadel.  Helsing- 
burg,  on  the  opposite  shore,  is  visible  to  the  naked  eye.  The 
Danes  yet  adhere  to  an  old  custom,  and  demand  tribute  of  all 
vessels  navigating  the  North  Sea  and  the  Baltic,  traversing  the 
Straits,  but  without  a  shadow  of  justice. 

Gottenburg  is  considerable  of  a  commercial  city,  with  a  popu- 
lation of  forty  thousand,  and  carries  on  a  large  trade  with  Eng- 
land and  other  countries  in  lumber  from  the  interior  of  Sweden, 
via  the  canals  and  lakes.  They  have  here  some  large  cotton 
mills,  sugar  refineries,  and  the  largest  porter  brewery,  for  the 
supply  of  all  Sweden,  that  I  have  seen  on  the  continent,  except 
in  London,  and  which  strangers  are  directed  to  as  a  curiosity. 
I  saw  here  a  full  cargo  of  cotton  just  arrived  from  New  Orleans, 
and  also  one  hundred  bales  of  American  hops.  Our  treaty  with 
Sweden  is  a  bad  one.  They  have  all  the  advantages  of  the  car- 
rying trade,  and  in  return  they  tax  our  products  at  a  higli  rate. 
We  are  taking  large  quantities  of  iron  annually  from  that  coun- 
try, and  some  attention  should  be  given  to  our  trade  with  Swe- 
den by  those  whose  business  it  is  to  attend  to  such  matters. 

The  Danes  and  Norwegians  speak  one  language,  but  the  lat- 
ter give  more  force  to  the  words,  and  are  not  so  effeminate  as  the 
former.  The  Swedish  is  another  language,  but  it  bears  resem- 
blance to  that,  similar  to  the  af&nity  between  the  Spanish, 
Italian,  and  Portuguese  tongues.  I  have  met  with  many  persons 
who  spoke  English,  as  might  have  been  expected,  there  is  so 
much  trade  with  that  country. 

From  Gottenburg,  by  steamer  along  the  coast  of  Sweden,  one 
enters  the  Gulf  of  Christiania,  with  its  innumerable  islands ; 
touching  at  the  little  towns  which  are  engaged  chiefly  in  the 
lumber  and  fishing  trade,  and  finally  at  the  head  of  the  gulf  is 
seen  the  town  from  which  I  write,  with  a  population  of  some 
thirty  thousand,  carrying  on  an  extensive  trade  in  lumber,  fish, 
iron,  &c.     This  whole  northern  country,  in  the  interior,  from 


174  CHRISTIA]S*IA. 

which  I  have  just  returned,  having  made  an  excursion  to  the 
iron  works,  reminds  one  in  many  respects  of  the  state  of  Maine. 
The  ship  building,  pine  fores-ts,  and  salmon  fishery,  bear  analogy 
to  our  northern  latitude. 

They  have  a  great  abundance  of  lobsters  of  the  best  quality. 
Yery  little  fruit  is  found  here,  except  green  apples,  and  the 
August  cherry,  which  is  yet  scarcely  ripe ;  there  are  fewer  flowers 
than  in  Italy  in  the  month  of  May.  Such  is  the  difference  of 
duration  of  heat  between  the  climate  of  the  sunny  south,  and 
the  more  rigid  regions  of  the  north.  They  have  yet  no  fear  of 
the  cholera,  which  is  still  remote ;  but  at  Gottenburg  we  were 
kept  in  suspense  for  half  an  hour  by  the  quarantine  officers, 
who  suspected  the  disease  had  appeared  in  Copenhagen,  although 
we  had  a  clean  bill  of  health.  The  potato  disease  has  reached 
this  country,  and  I  see  its  ravages  in  many  places. 

The  light  summer  nights — the  day  scarcely  obscured — the 
Aurora  Borealis,  or  northern  lights — the  wild  and  romantic 
country  of  the  north — these  things  strike  an  inhabitant  of  the 
south  of  Europe  who  visits  this  country  for  the  first  time. 

The  Norwegians  are  a  fine  race  of  men,  of  light,  ruddy  com- 
plexion, and  are  capable  of  hard  service.  They  are  much 
attached  to  their  country  and  pine  groves,  yet  the  cliarm  of 
freedom  has  drawn  away  many  to  our  own  land.  This  is  the 
only  part  of  the  world  that  I  have  yet  visited,  where  there  are 
no  Jews.  Such  is  the  horror  of  the  race,  that  ancient  laws, 
interdicting  their  settlement  here,  have  not  been  repealed, 
although  repeated  efforts  have  been  made.  A  Jew  can  only 
remain  twenty-four  hours  in  the  country. 

There  are  no  curious  sights  here,  as  in  other  old  countries; 
things  are  more  premature,  but  there  are  some  fine  points  of 
view,  and  nature  puts  on  her  gayest  attire.  I  was  gratified, 
however,  in  visiting  an  immense  new  prison  in  process  of  erec- 
tion, for  solitary  confinement,  to  find  a  faithful  copy  of  one  in 
Pennsjdvanua.  A  new  palace  for  king  Oscar,  who  is  obliged  to 
pass  a  certain  portion  of  the  year  here,  is  now  completing.  It 
is  a  large  structure,  and  for  Norway,  does  very  well.  The  two 
governments  of  Norway  and  Sweden  are  subject  to  the  one 
king,  but  the  former  has  many  privileges  secured  to  her. 

One  peculiarity  I  noticed  along  the  Norwegian  roads.  Every 
owner  of  land  is  obliged  to  keep  his  part  in  repair,  and  the  line 


EN   EOUTE   IN   SWEDEN.  175 

is  marked  by  stakes  with  a  flat  board,  on  which  the  name  is 
painted ;  so  that  if  the  road  is  impassable,  the  traveller  knows  of 
whom  to  make  complaint. 

The  currency  is  all  silver,  with  the  exception  of  bank  notes 
to  the  value  of  about  one  dollar,  and  the  expenses  of  life  are 
nearly  double  those  of  Denmark,  as  all  the  luxuries  of  life  come 
from  abroad.  The  currency  of  Sweden,  on  the  contrary,  is 
almost  all  government  paper,  and  the  rag  currency  reminds  me 
of  our  shin-plaster  days.  A  paper  rix-dollar  is  about  twenty- 
five  cents,  and  they  have  notes  as  low  in  value  as  eight  cents  of 
our  money  ;  the  consequence  is,  that  in  getting  a  piece  of  coin 
changed  of  the  value  of  an  American  dollar,  you  have  a  pocket- 
ful of  rags  in  exchange. 

The  steamers  emplo3'ed  on  these  routes  this  season  are  more 
indifferent  than  usual,  as  there  are  few  passengers,  and  the  best 
class  of  boats  have  been  hauled  off  for  the  use  of  the  govern- 
ment. King  Oscar  is  now  at  Malmo,  on  the  coast,  within  five 
hours  of  Copenhagen  by  sea,  and  has  his  army  all  prepared  for 
a  move  in  case  the  Germans  enter  Denmark.  For  the  affair  of 
Schleswig  Holstein,  which  is  debatable  ground  as  to  the  rights  of 
the  two  countries,  he  will  not  interfere ;  but  if  the  Germans 
move  an  inch  further  into  Denmark,  then  Norway  and  Sweden 
consider  the  cause  their  own. 


XLV. 

Stockholm,  Sweden,  1848. 
Since  I  wrote  you  from  Norway,  I  have,  by  means  of  private 
post,  and  public  vehicles  on  the  land  route,  and  steamboats  upon 
the  lakes  and  canals,  travelled  entirely  through  Sweden ;  a  country 
of  which  so  little  is  known,  and  which  is  so  beautiful  and  pic- 
turesque that  I  could  not  help  being  delighted.  This  country 
has  been  much  favored  by  nature  in  the  development  of  its 
internal  resources,  for  its  lakes,  by  the  construction  of  immense 
canals  and  locks,  which  will  compare  for  solidity  and  beauty 
with  any  in  the  world,  have  been  connected  with  rivers  in  such 
a  manner,  that  vessels  of  good  size  with  their  cargoes,  as  well  as 
small  steamboats,  can  traverse  the  entire  width  of  the  country, 
from  Gottenbero;  on  the  west  to  Stockholm  on  the  north-east 


176  STOCKHOLM. 

coast.     It  is  less  tedious  and  more  interesting  for  the  traveller  to 
vary  the  means  of  conveyance. 

A  few  hours'  ride  from  "Wenersborg,  a  small  town  situated 
upon  a  large  lake  which  bears  its  name,  and  where  it  falls  into 
the  river  Gotha,  are  the  cataracts  of  Trolhatta,  celebrated  in  all 
the  north  as  the  Niagara  of  Sweden.  There  are  several  falls 
which  are  separated  by  islands,  and  the  scenery  is  wild  and 
savage,  and  reminded  me  of  the  Niagara,  although  it  is  less 
majestic ;  I  think  it  preferable  to  any  of  the  cascades  of  Europe. 

There  is  a  sail  by  steamer  of  fifteen  hours  upon  lake  Wener, 
almost  the  entire  length,  to  Holt,  where  stages  take  passengers 
to  Orebro,  a  fine  town,  which  has  the  peculiarity  of  most  of  the 
country  towns  in  Sweden,  the  houses  being  built  of  wood  and 
painted  red,  as  well  as  the  out-buildings  and  fences.  There  one 
takes  the  steamer  and  passes  through  a  chain  of  small  lakes  and 
canals,  amid  numerous  and  picturesque  islands,  varying  in  form, 
with  wild  and  enchanting  scenery,  bearing  some  resemblance  to 
the  groups  of  islands  in  the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  approach  to  Stockholm  through  the  beautiful  lake  Malar, 
with  its  banks  richly  cultivated  and  covered  with  villas,  and 
occasionally  a  village,  old  chateau,  or  palace,  is  certainly  very 
beautiful ;  and  the  city  itself,  situated  upon  seven  islands,  is  only 
surpassed  as  a  commercial  port  by  Constantinople  and  Naples, 
and  I  consider  the  locality,  in  point  of  natural  beauty,  the  third 
in  Europe. 

I  have  visited  the  objects  most  worthy  of  notice  in  the  city, 
viz.  the  palace  of  the  late  king  Bernadotte,  containing  all  the 
relics  and  souvenirs  of  that  monarch,  who  was  a  French  General, 
and  governed  the  Swedes  for  many  years  without  acquiring  any 
knowledge  of  their  language,  and  as  a  natural  consequence  the 
French  became  the  court  language,  which  accounts  for  many 
persons  being  found  here  who  speak  it.  His  son,  the  present 
king  Oscar,  is  educated  with  the  language  of  the  country.  One 
of  the  churches  is  a  perfect  museum,  containing  a  vast  quantity 
of  trophies,  from  Turkey  and  other  parts  of  Europe,  made  in  the 
conquests  of  Charles  XII.,  together  with  all  the  relics  identified 
with  that  warrior  prince — the  pride  of  Sweden  ;  his  chapeau, 
with  the  bullet-hole  therein  from  which  he  received  his  death, 
as  also  his  uniform,  is  preserved  in  a  glass  case.  In  the  vaults 
lie  the  remains  of  all  the  Swedish  kings,  in  gold  gilded  sarco- 


THE   MINES   OF   DANNEMORA.  177 

phagi,  ending  with  the  hxst,  Bernadotte.  There  are  also  a 
dozen  stuffed  horses  ranged  on  each  side  of  the  building,  clad  in 
full  coat  of  mail,  with  riders  covered  with  armor  and  shields 
most  elaborately  wrought ;  altogether  it  is  a  handsome  collection, 
and  w^ould  bear  comparison  with  the  Turin  or  Dresden  exhibi- 
tions. The  water  excursions  to  the  gardens,  and  villas,  and 
beautiful  points  of  view,  interest  the  stranger ;  for  my  knowledge 
of  them  I  am  indebted  to  the  politeness  of  our  minister,  Col. 
Ellsworth.  A  steamboat  excursion  of  one  day  to  the  Drolling- 
holm  Palace  and  grounds,  the  favorite  residence  of  some  of  the 
former  Swedish  kings,  is  very  interesting.  An  excursion  by 
water  to  Upsala,  famous  for  its  university  and  cathedral,  and 
thence  by  land  to  the  immense  and  wonderful  Dannemora  Iron 
Mines,  returning  thence  via  the  palace  and  grounds  of  Skokloster, 
which  occupies  about  three  days,  is  not  only  an  interesting  but 
an  instructive  one,  and  should  not  be  omitted  by  any  traveller 
visiting  Sweden. 

It  would  be  useless  to  attempt  a  description  of  the  contents  or 
beauties  of  the  palaces  ;  suffice  it  to  say  then,  that  I  was  agree- 
ably surprised  to  find  such  collections  here  in  the  north  of 
Europe  ;  though  when  I  reflected  that  they  were  filled  with  the 
fruits  of  the  conquests  and  robberies  of  General  Bragh,  from 
different  parts  of  Germany,  it  was  easily  accounted  for. 

I  chartered  a  carriage  at  Upsala  and  posted  thence  to  the  mines 
of  Dannemora.  I  found  the  roads  good,  and  horses  small 
but  fast.  The  unusual  number  of  gates  appeared  singular  ;  each 
farm  or  plantation  has  its  own,  and  I  suppose  one  hundred 
would  not  exceed  the  number  passed  in  this  voyage..  Either 
my  valet  or  the  driver  was  continually  getting  down  to  open 
•  gates,  where  children  were  not  found  running  to  do  so,  to  earn  a 
small  copper  coin,  which  I  was  glad  to  throw  to  them  to  avoid 
delay. 

Sweden  is  famous  for  the  quality  of  its  iron,  particularly 
for  making  steel,  large  quantities  of  which  go  to  England  as 
well  as  America.  These  immense  works,  with  five  hundred 
men  employed  in  the  mines,  are  eight  hundred  feet  deep ;  the 
opening  would  cover  acres,  and  it  is  frightful  to  look  into  the 
deep  chasm.  There  are  millions  of  tons  upon  the  grounds  in 
the  vicinity  ready  for  smelting,  which  are  transported  to  the 
different    furnaces    through    the    country.      The    houses    and 

12 


178  OLD   MOUNDS 

grounds  of  the  village  belong  to  the  company,  as  also  the  tracts 
of  land  for  cultivation,  and  the  workmen  live  on  the  spot,  having 
their  house  rent  free,  and  the  privilege  of  purchasing  grain  at  a 
low  rate ;  they  earn  fifteen  cents  per  day.  The  only  wonder  is 
how  families  can  subsist  on  such  pittances  as  the  poor  laborers 
obtain '  in  many  parts  of  Europe ;  and  the  question  naturally 
arises,  how  can  we  develope  the  resources  of  our  country,  and 
pay  renumerating  prices  for  labor,  in  competition  with  the  serfs 
of  Europe,  unless  by  a  protective  duty,  which  necessity  will 
oblige  us  yet  to  adopt?  How  many  millions  of  poor  starving 
wretches  there  are  in  Europe  who  would  rejoice  to  have  their 
stomachs  filled  with  the  corn  bread  and  bacon  of  the  negroes  of 
the  south ! 

All  the  necessaries  of  life  are  abundant  and  cheap  in  Sweden, 
more  so  than  in  most  other  countries,  but  the  cuisine  is  horrible. 
There  are  no  table  d'hotes  in  the  public-houses,  and  one  is 
obliged  to  go  to  restaurants,  which  are  very  indifferent.  One 
custom  prevails  throughout  all  Sweden,  in  restaurants,  country- 
houses,  and  private  houses ;  that  is  to  offer  the  guest  on  a  side 
table,  what  they  call  schnaps — a  species  of  white  brandy,  with 
small  particles  of  smoked  salmon  or  ham,  to  prepare  the  appetite. 
The  interior  of  a  Swedish  log  cabin,  in  its  rustic  style,  is  a  curio- 
sity. From  the  ceiling,  by  means  of  net- work  or  wood  frames, 
are  suspended  monthly  supplies  of  black  flat  rye  bread  or  cakes, 
with  a  hole  in  the  centre;  the  whole  battery  of  kitchen  utensils 
is  hung  up  on  one  side  of  a  huge  fireplace,  and  as  the  country 
abounds  in  timber  the  inhabitants  need  not  freeze ;  the  beds  are 
a  sort  of  boxes,  hardly  wide  enough  to  turn  round  in,  and  the 
pillow  is  a  sort  of  wedge,  in  the  form  of  a  letter  Y ;  in  place  of 
coverlids  they  give  you  a  light  feather  bed,  or  one  of  eider  down, 
which  almost  suffocates  you ;  yet  you  dare  not  throw  it  off  for 
fear  of  taking  cold. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  old  and  ruined  town  of  Upsala,  are  seen 
some  high  mounds,  which  tradition  says  were  the  tombs  of  the 
heathen  kings  of  Sweden.  They  are  lofty  and  curious,  and 
bear  resemblance  to  some  I  have  seen  in  the  western  part  of  our 
country,  so  I  was  induced  to  visit  them.  The  present  king, 
Oscar,  ordered  an  excavation  through  the  centre  of  the  largest, 
and  walled  and  piled  up  the  passage  as  the  work  progressed,  and 
sure  enough,  about  the  centre  was  found  a  deposit  of  human 


EN   ROUTE   TO   RUSSIA.  179 

bones,  which  are  preserved  and  seen  through  a  grate,  after  pass- 
ing the  line  of  the  passage  by  torchlight. 

The  communication  by  steamer  to  St.  Petersburg  is  broken 
up  by  the  cholera,  and  the  want  of  passengers,  as  imperial  orders 
by  the  Emperor  to  all  Russian  ministers  forbid  a  passport  to 
other  than  Russian  subjects.  If  I  get  into  the  Czar's  dominions 
it  will  be  with  courier  passport,  as  bearer  of  despatches,  and  by 
a  circuitous  route,  via  Finland. 

Northern  Russia  with  Poland  inclusive,  being  the  only  parts 
of  Europe  I  have  not  visited,  and  being  now  in  the  extreme 
north,  I  should  much  regret  not  being  able  to  visit  those  coun- 
tries, which  occupy  so  deeply  the  minds  of  all  philanthropists, 
and  which  exercise  such  a  powerful  influence  over  the  politics 
of  Europe. 

I  am  prepared  to  make  some  sacrifices  and  incur  some  risks, 
in  order  to  finish  entirely  the  continental  tour,  and  if  I  succeed 
will  write  you  from  St.  Petersburg. 


XLVI. 

St.  Petersburg,  Russia,  1848. 

I  WROTE  you  last  from  the  beautiful  city  of  Stockholm,  and 
stated  that  I  intended  visiting  Russia  if  a  passport  could  be  pro- 
cured ;  as  in  consequence  of  the  revolutions  in  Europe,  the  Czar 
had  given  peremptory  orders  to  all  the  Russian  ministers  not  to 
grant  a  vise  to  any  but  Russian  subjects.  From  this  cause,  and 
the  prevalence  of  the  cholera,  and  strict  quarantine,  no  steamers 
were  plying  between  the  two  countries. 

The  only  means  of  entering  Russia,  therefore,  was  by  taking 
a  small  steamer  for  Finland,  then  posting  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  to  Helsingfors,  where  a  steamer  would  be  found  for  Revel, 
in  Livonia,  and  thence  to  Cronstadt  and  St.  Petersburg. 
Through  the  politeness  of  our  minister  at  Stockholm,  Col.  H. 
W.  Elsworth,  I  was  made  bearer  of  despatches  to  St.  Peters- 
burg, but  without  charge  to  Uncle  Sam,  and  took  my 
departure  on  board  of  a  small  steamer,  with  four  Finland  pas- 
sengers, who  were  Russian  subjects,  in  a  small  cabin  with  two 
berths,  and  two  settees.  It  reminded  me  in  some  respects  of  my 
expedition  up  the  Nile,  from  the  fact  that  we  were  obliged  tc 


180  ST.    PETERSBURG, 

lay  ill  a  stock  of  provisions  ourselves,  there  being  no  restaurant 
on  board.  My  friends  dissuaded  me  from  going,  and  T  antici- 
pated but  little  pleasure  ;  but  fortunately  the  weather  was  beau- 
tiful, and  with  a  little  German,  mixed  with  Swedish,  and  one  of 
our  number  who  spoke  French,  we  understood  each  other  per- 
fectly. In  less  than  two  d-djs  we  had  descended  the  river, 
traversed  the  straits,  and  coasted  along  through  the  thousand 
picturesque  islands  of  Finland  to  Abo,  a  pleasant  seaport  of 
lifteen  to  twenty  thousand  inhabitants.  I  then  took  private  con- 
veyance and  post  horses,  which  went  like  the  wind,  on  full  gallop 
to  Ilelsingfors,  a  considerable  seaport,  celebrated  for  its  sea-baths, 
and  much  resorted  to  by  the  Eussians,  I  found  here  a  steamer 
for  Livonia,  and  thence  to  this  city. 

This  was  an  agreeable  trip  through  Finland,  The  rude  and 
primitive  habits  of  the  people  ;  the  wild,  half-cultivated  country  ; 
the  common  country  inns,  with  the  floors  sprinkled  with  small 
branches  and  leaves  of  the  pine  tree,  which  imparted  an  odor 
throughout  the  house  ;  the  spittoons,  instead  of  sand,  filled  with 
wild  flowers — how  novel  everything  was!  In  the  month  of 
June,  the  traveller  can  write  up  his  journal  at  night  without 
candles,  as  the  sun  sets  at  eleven  p,m,  and  rises  at  two  a.m. 
This  is  the  bright  side  of  the  picture ;  but  in  the  winter,  when 
imbedded  in  snow  and  ice,  you  can  judge  for  yourselves  of  the 
amount  of  pleasure.  When  spring  once  breaks,  vegetation 
comes  forth  rapidly,  and  from  sixty  to  ninety  days  the  crops 
are  ready  for  the  sickle, 

St,  Petersburg  is  considered  the  most  brilliant  capital  in 
Europe,  although  it  is  situated  upon  the  banks  of  the  Neva,  in 
a  low  and  unhealthy  location,  and  almost  on  a  level  with  the 
river ;  the  vast  resources  of  Russia,  however,  have  contributed 
to  fill  the  marshes  and  build  up  the  imperial  city  in  all  its  gran- 
deur, through  the  genius  of  the  best  artists  from  all  countries, 
and  here  may  be  found  a  little  of  all  which  is  produced  in  other 
parts  of  Europe,  In  approaching  the  city  one  is  struck  with 
the  grandeur  of  the  domes  and  spires  of  the  churches,  glittering 
with  gold  in  the  distance,  and  after  entering  it,  with  the  magni- 
ficence of  its  monuments  and  public  edifices.  There  is  a  good 
deal  of  style  in  the  equipages,  and  the  Russian  horses  are  supe- 
rior. It  is  less  gay  now  than  usual,  in  consequence  of  the 
cholera  having  made  such  ravages.     The  city  is  intersected  by 


A  EUSSIAN   REVIEW.  181 

several  large  canals,  in  wliich  tlie  water  is  nearly  stagnant,  and 
emits  in  hot  weather  unhealthy  effluvia.  The  people  often 
drink  the  foul  water  of  the  canals  in  preference  to  incurring  the 
expense  of  getting  it  from  the  river. 

In  the  month  of  June,  the  people  have  a  religious  fiist  of 
three  weeks'  duration,  when  they  subsist  on  vegetables  and  fruits, 
abstaining  from  flesh  and  other  nourishing  food ;  which,  with  an 
unusual  season  for  changes  from  heat  to  cold,  augmented  the 
cholera,  which  reached  one  thousand  cases  per  day,  five  hundred 
of  which  were  deaths.  It  has  almost  entirely  subsided,  or  at 
least  is  not  alarming ;  and  out  of  the  fifty  thousand  who  fled 
the  city  at  its  approach,  great  numbers  are  returning  from  the 
interior. 

We  have  just  returned  from  a  visit  to  the  imperial  summer 
residence  at  Peterhoff",  on  the  banks  of  the  Neva,  between  this 
city  and  Cronstadt.  It  is  called  the  Yersailles  of  Eussia,  and  is 
truly  magnificent  for  its  gardens,  fountains,  statuary,  grottoes, 
and  palaces ;  but  will  not  bear  comparison  with  the  beauties  of 
the  much  renowned  Versailles,  in  France. 

When  in  Pisa,  last  winter,  I  made  the  acquaintance  of  a 
Russian  family,  who  invited  me  strongly  to  visit  them  ;  and  on 
my  arrival  I  found  they  had  preceded  me  only  a  few  days,  and 
received  me  with  the  greatest  kindness.  The  gentleman  being 
the  colonel  of  the  empress's  body-guard,  and  the  annual  fete  of 
the  regiment  about  taking  place,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  assist- 
ing at  the  review  of  the  regiment,  which  was  one  thousand 
strong,  and  one  of  the  best  dressed  and  best  disciplined  in  the 
world ;  the  platoons  are  of  uniform  height,  and  move  as  one 
man,  and  in  line  appear  like  living  statues.  The  ceremonies 
of  high  mass  were  performed  in  the  open  air  in  front  of  one  of 
the  summer  palaces,  a  few  miles  from  the  city,  with  all  the  pomp 
and  form  of  the  rites  of  the  Greek  church ;  the  immense  Asiatic 
gilded  silk  tent  spread  to  protect  from  the  sun's  rays  of  a  beau- 
tiful day ;  the  gorgeous  services  and  robes  of  the  priests,  with 
long  floating  beards,  and  hair  covering  the  shoulders  ;  the  burn- 
ing of  immense  wax  candles,  and  the  fumes  of  incense;  the 
whole  imperial  family  en  grande  toilette  ;  the  review  of  the  regi- 
ment, after  mass,  by  the  Emperor  Nicholas  and  his  sons,  the 
grand  dukes,  on  horseback — altogether  it  was  one  of  the  most 
imposing  sights  you  could  behold.     After  the  rcvicv/  by  the 


182  THE    EMPEROR  NICHOLAS. 

emperor,  tlie  empress  and  the  beautiful  new  bride  of  the  Grand 
Duke  Constantine  reviewed  the  troops  from  their  magnificent 
carriage,  drawn  bj  four  horses,  with  outriders  in  jockey  style, 
l^assing  over  the  beautiful  lawn  amid  the  spontaneous  "  vivas  " 
of  the  whole  regiment,  who  adore  the  empress,  and  are  under 
her  particular  patronage.  The  officers  of  the  regiment  dined 
with  the  royal  family  in  the  palace,  after  which  the  soldiers  par- 
took of  a  sumptuous  dinner,  under  a  long  line  of  tents  near  the 
barracks,  which  were  visited  by  the  empress  and  the  new  bride, 
who  were  saluted  by  a  thousand  voices. 

The  colonel  of  the  regiment  and  his  son  conducted  me 
through  the  tents  of  the  soldiers,  and  when  the  word  for  action 
was  given,  it  was  amusing  to  see  the  dismemberment  of  the  car- 
casses of  entire  roasted  sheep,  with  gilded  horns,  whose  heads 
were  severed  with  as  much  facility  as  a  Cossack  would  have 
shown  in  taking  off  the  head  of  an  enemy.  By  this  same  mili- 
tary influence  I  have  had  access  to  the  winter  palace  and  pri- 
vate apartments  of  the  empress,  which  are  rich  beyond  descrip- 
tion, and  the  treasures  of  the  palace  in  sceptres,  crowns,  imperial 
robes,  with  the  decorations  in  diamonds,  emeralds,  rubies,  pearls, 
&c.,  to  the  value  of  many  millions,  all  of  which  was  at  this  time 
inaccessible  to  a  stranger.  I  have  seen  almost  all  the  monarchs 
of  Europe,  and  I  must  say  that  the  Emperor  Nicholas  is  the  finest 
looking  personage  among  them  all. 

Being  about  six  feet  in  height,  with  fine  complexion  and 
more  of  the  German  than  Russian  caste,  well  proportioned,  with 
a  commanding  yet  dignified  and  graceful  air,  when  he  appears 
in  full  uniform  on  horseback,  one  says  directly,  "  There  goes  the 
Emperor."  He  is  represented  as  being  one  of  the  most  bold  and 
daring  of  men,  with  the  most  indefatigable  perseverance  and  zeal, 
and  his  works  prove  it.  With  his  arbitrary  rule  of  sixty  mil- 
lions of  subjects,  the  largest  portion  of  them  uneducated,  his 
task  is  a  difficult  one,  and  extorts  praises  from  his  friends,  and 
curses  from  his  enemies. 

In  matters  of  politics  my  lips  are  sealed,  as  spies  are  found  in 
every  direction,  even  among  the  domestics  in  hotels  and  private 
houses.  The  passing  of  the  custom-house  is  most  difficult;  offi- 
cers often  engage  you  in  conversation  hoping  to  draw  out  your 
political  views,  but  I  must  say  that  travelling  in  an  official  capa- 
city, entitled  to  courtesy  in  all  countries,  my  passport  excluded 


MODEL   MINES.  183 

me  from  visitation  of  luggage,  and  gave  despatch,  and  the  offi- 
cers were  exceedingly  polite. 

Within  a  fortress  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Neva  is  a  cathedral, 
rich  in  relics,  which  contains  the  tombs  of  all  the  emperors  since 
Peter  the  Great;  and  in  a  cabinet  in  the  Museum  may  be  found 
all  the  relics  which  belonged  to  that  great  genius  of  the  age  in 
which  he  lived.  In  the  suburbs  of  the  city  is  a  small  wooden  or 
log  house  where  he  resided,  and  which  is  now  inclosed  within 
another  building  to  protect  it  from  the  ravage  of  time ;  there  is 
also  a  boat  there,  made  by  his  own  hands.  These  to  me  were 
pleasing  reminiscences. 

Eussia  is  extremely  rich  in  mines  of  gold,  copper,  and  precious 
stones.  Her  annual  resources  from  Siberia,  where  the  convicts 
are  sent,  are  enormous,  enough  so  to  support  her  immense  army, 
which  is  estimated  at  over  one  million  men.  In  the  galleries 
and  vaults  of  the  miners'  corps,  is  the  finest  collection  of  mine- 
rals, metals,  precious  stones,  and  marbles,  I  have  yet  seen  in 
Europe.  Here  are  found  also  all  the  models  of  industry,  from 
the  most  simple  machine  to  the  entire  apparatus  for  the  working 
of  the  Siberian  mines.  The  vaults  under  the  building,  which  are 
most  ingeniously  constructed,  and  into  which  one  descends  by 
torches,  are  a  fac  simile  of  the  arches  and  avenues  in  the  gold, 
silver,  and  copper  mines  of  Siberia,  with  the  walls  stained  in 
different  colors,  and  particles  of  ore  representing  all  the  different 
strata,  so  naturally  indeed  that  one  cannot  but  believe  that  he  is 
really  traversing  the  mines. 

The  Arsenal  for  the  manufacture  of  cannon,  and  the  immense 
collection  of  arms  and  trophies  from  the  early  ages,  are  well 
worth  a  visit,  though  they  did  not  strike  me  as  being  remarka- 
ble. 

St.  Petersburg  being  a  European  city,  one  gets  but  an  imper- 
fect idea  of  the  character  of  Russia,  without  going  into  the  inte- 
rior. Moscow  is  represented  as  being  one  of  the  most  attractive 
cities  of  Europe,  and  of  quite  another  style,  being  oriental  in  its 
character. 

I  shall  visit  that  renowned  city,  and  from  thence  cross  the 
interior  of  Russia  into  Poland,  striking  the  river  Vistula  at 
"Warsaw,  Through  the  influence  of  friends  I  have  succeeded  in 
getting  a  Russian  and  German  passport  from  Count  Nesselrode, 
purporting  to  be  bearer  of  despatches,  which  gives  me  command 


184  EUSSIAN   LIFE. 

of  horses  at  all  the  stations  in  preference  to  others.  Agreeably 
to  an  imperial  order  the  peasants  are  obliged  to  have  at  all  times 
a  certain  number  of  horses  reserved  for  couriers  or  bearers  of 
despatches.     You  will  hear  from  me  again  at  Moscow. 


XLVII. 

Moscow,  Russia,  1848. 

I  CAME  to  this  city  by  extra  post  from  St.  Petersburg  over 
the  imperial  macadamised  road,  which  terminates  here,  a  distance 
of  about  four  hundred  and  sixty  American  miles,  in  forty-eight 
hours,  including  stoppages.  Our  change  of  horses  ordinarily 
required  only  three  minutes,  and  in  consequence  of  some  little 
delay  on  the  road,  the  last  ten  miles  to  the  gate  of  the  city  were 
made  in  forty  minutes  by  three  horses  abreast,  the  lead  with 
postillion  on,  coachman  and  conductor  in  front,  and  four  inside 
passengers,  tlie  horses  on  the  full  gallop.  I  have  never  travelled 
faster  in  any  country,  by  mail  coach,  than  in  Eussia. 

I  wrote  you  from  St.  Petersburg,  with  some  details  of  that 
brilliant  capital,  which  is,  however,  modern  and  European  ;  but 
whoever  has  visited  it  and  not  gone  into  the  interior,  has  seen 
but  little  of  Russia.  There  are  several  important  towns  and 
cities  on  the  route  between  Petersburg  and  this  city,  Novo- 
gorod  being  one  of  the  principal.  The  villages  of  the  peasants, 
which  are  composed  of  log  cabins  mostly,  and  which,  with  the 
immense  estates,  belong  to  the  nobles,  are  frequently  seen. 
The  serfs,  usually  clad  in  a  long  frock  or  surtout,  made  from 
sheepskin  with  the  woolly  side  reversed,  rough  coarse  boots  or 
sandals,  made  from  the  bark  of  trees,  an  old  small-brimmed 
conical  hat,  with  long  beard  and  mustache,  and  an  ugly  strap 
or  girdle  around  the  waist,  present  a  rather  uncouth  appearance. 
They  are  convej^ed  with  the  land,  yet  sometimes  separatelj^,  and 
are  worth  about  three  hundred  silver  rubles,  or  two  hundred 
dollars  each.  The  females  are  much  less  valuable,  and  can  be 
brought  for  one  quarter  the  sum.  The  usual  custom  is  for  them 
to  employ  one  half  their  labor  for  the  master,  who  must  be  noble, 
and  the  balance  on  their  own  account.  The  emperor  is  disposed 
to  ameliorate  their  condition,  and  in  time  will  effect  it,  but  the 
power  and  influence  of  the  nobles  are  so  great  he  cannot  directly. 


MOSCOW,  18c 

There  are  nobles  in  St.  Petersburg  and  Moscow,  wbo  possess 
immense  landed  estates,  with  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  and 
jfifty  thousand  male  peasants,  and  females  in  proportion,  and 
you  can  well  imagine  the  princely  edifices  and  equipages  these 
persons  can  maintain. 

I  was  enchanted  with  the  entrance  to  this  magnificent  city  at 
mid-day.  The  plain  where  once  encamped  the  defeated  Army 
of  Napoleon,  in  consequence  of  the  Russians  burning  their  own 
homes  and  palaces,  was  in  part  occupied  by  a  grand  review  of  a 
portion  of  the  Russian  army,  the  most  powerful  as  a  concentrated 
force,  and  the  best  disciplined  troops  in  the  world.  In  the 
distance,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  from  some  points,  can  be 
seen  hundreds  of  temples,  churches,  towers,  of  all  kinds  of 
architecture,  with  domes  and  minarets  gilded  with  gold,  the 
buildings  generally  painted  white  or  cream  color,  and  the  roofs 
of  plated  iron,  painted  green  or  brown,  and  presenting  a  remark- 
able appearance.  I  have  never  yet  seen  any  city  in  Europe 
which  bears  any  general  resemblance  to  it,  except  Constantinople, 
which  for  its  locality  upon  the  Bosphorus  and  its  general  objects, 
presents  itself  more  beautifully  than  any  other  port  perhaps  in 
the  world. 

In  this  ancient  city  of  the  Czars  I  find  reminiscences  of  the 
African  cities  of  Grand  Cairo  and  Alexandria.  It  would  be 
idle  to  attempt  a  description  of  the  renowned  Kremlin,  which 
incloses  within  its  walls  a  town  of  itself,  comprising  the  palace 
of  the  Czars,  the  palace  of  the  Patriarchs,  the  Senate,  the 
Arsenal,  the  new  palace  of  the  emperor  (not  yet  occupied),  the 
Tower  of  John  the  Great,  which  incloses  thirty  bells  of  large 
and  small  sizes,  from  sixty  tons  weight  down,  and  fi'om  which 
you  have  a  magnificent  view ;  the  Cathedrals  of  the  Assumption 
and  the  Archangel,  which  are  extremely  rich,  and  dazzle  the 
eyes  with  gold  and  silver  plating  and  ornaments.  The  Czars 
are  crowned  here,  and  here  rest  the  ashes  of  the  emperors  prior 
to  Peter  the  Great,  since  which  time  they  are  interred  within  the 
church  of  the  Fortress,  at  St.  Petersburg. 

In  one  of  the  palaces  are  five  immense  saloons,  which  are 
entirely  occupied  for  the  treasures  of  the  country,  and  contain 
riches  beyond  description.  Here  are  seen  the  crowns  of  all  the 
kingdoms  that  have  become  subservient  to  Russia,  as  well  as  all 
the  sceptres,  crowns,  and  regalia  of  the  emperors,  not  including 


186  RUSSIAN   CONVICTS. 

tlaat  of  Nicholas,  which  is  in  the  winter  palace  at  St.  Petersburg, 
To  give  a  faint  idea  of  the  value  of  this  collection  of  gold  and 
silver,  ornaments,  horse  armor,  &c.,  I  will  mention  one  object 
which  struck  my  attention  particularly  for  its  beauty — a  saddle, 
presented  by  the  Sultan  to  the  Empress  Catharine ;  the  pommel  is 
of  gold  and  set  with  diamonds,  rubies,  pearls  and  emeralds,  the 
bridle  and  straps  are  dazzling  with  brilliants ;  it  is  said  to  have 
cost  two  hundred  thousand  rubles  or  one  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  dollars.  The  crown  of  Peter  the  Great  is  said  to  con- 
tain eight  hundred  and  forty-seven  diamonds.  This  collection 
struck  me  as  being  richer  than  any  I  had  seen,  richer  even  than 
that  of  the  Sultan  or  of  the  crown  jewels  of  England. 

The  great  bell  of  Moscow,  of  which  so  much  has  been  said, 
and  which  after  its  fall  remained  buried  in  the  earth,  is  placed 
upon  a  circular  wall,  corresponding  to  its  size,  near  the  tower. 
Its  weight  is  said  to  be  two  hundred  tons,  and  in  its  composition 
is  a  large  proportion  of  gold  and  silver,  contributed  by  the 
inhabitants.  It  is  twenty  feet  high,  and  twenty-two  feet  in 
diameter.  A  piece  of  about  six  feet  was  broken  from  it  by  its 
fall. 

Yesterday  I  went  to  Sparrow  Hill,  some  five  miles  from  the 
Kremlin,  to  see  the  convicts  examined  by  the  physician  before 
their  departure  for  Siberia.  After  being  presented  to  the 
General  of  Police,  the  Eoyal  Counsellor,  and  other  officers 
present.  Doctor  Plaas,  who  is  very  kind  to  the  prisoners,  and 
quite  unwilling  they  should  leave  on  a  pilgrimage  of  four 
thousand  and  five  hundred  miles  without  being  in  health,  or 
supplied  with  all  that  the  government  furnishes,  drew  them  up 
in  line  to  the  number  of  about  one  hundred,  men,  women,  and 
some  children,  and  asked  three  questions,  to  which  they  answered 
in  Eussian.  Are  you  in  good  health  ?  Are  you  in  want  of 
anything  ?  Are  you  satisfied  to  depart  ?  To  all  of  which  they 
gave  satisfactory  answers,  with  few  exceptions,  which  were 
inquired  into.  The  largest  proportion  were  going  to  the 
colonies  for  life  ;  the  worst  subjects  were  branded  on  the 
forehead  and  both  cheeks,  and  condemned  to  the  Siberian 
mines.  To-day  I  saw  them  take  their  departure  on  the 
Siberian  road ;  prior  to  which  they  were  conducted  by  the 
soldiery  to  the  suburbs  of  the  city,  where,  in  a  building  adapted 
for  the  purpose  of  confinement,  they  received  from  their  friends 


TEA   DRINKING.  187 

and  the  charitable  of  both  sexes,  supplies  of-  food,  clothing,  and 
considerable  sums  of  money.  Those  who  can  read  are  supplied 
with  books  by  benevolent  societies.  They  were  drawn  up  in 
line,  having  a  light  leather  strap  from  the  shoulders  to  support 
the  chains  on  their  ankles,  and  received  the  gifts  of  the  benevo- 
lent as  they  passed  them  for  the  last  time.  I  could  not  help  but 
feel  for  the  poor  wretches,  guilty  as  they  may  be,  and  followed 
in  the  train  giving  each  a  small  piece  of  money  ;  they  perceived 
I  was  a  stranger,  and  some  of  them,  learning  from  my  valet  that 
I  was  an  American,  gave  a  hearty  shout. 

The  weather  is  still  mild  and  agreeable,  much  more  so  than  at 
St.  Petersburg,  lying  several  degrees  further  south  and  east. 
It  is  now  the  17th  of  September  by  Russian  time,  but  with  us 
the  29th,  there  being  twelve  days  difference  in  stjde.  Here  the 
macadamised  roads  terminate,  and  those  who  wish  to  travel 
south  and  east  must  in  most  cases  have  private  conveyances  and 
post  horses,  which  are  to  be  found  everywhere,  but  the  living  is 
horrible.  In  the  country  inns,  which  are  detestable,  scarcely 
anything  eatable  is  to  be  found  ;  white  bread  is  a  luxury.  The 
peasants  subsist  mostly  on  black  rye-bread  and  water.  The 
article  of  tea,  which  is  a  favorite  beverage  of  the  Russians,  may 
almost  always  be  found,  and  of  the  best  quality  of  Caravan, 
which  comes  across  the  country.  It  is  amusing  to  go  into  the 
new  park,  a  favorite  drive  and  promenade  in  the  suburbs  of  the 
city,  and  see  a  hundred  tables  belonging  to  as  many  girls  or 
women,  who  furnish  the  boiling  water  from  as  many  kettles,  to 
those  who  come  provided  with  the  aromatic  plant. 

The  cholera,  which  has  been  frightful  the  past  summer,  is  now 
almost  entirely  subdued,  and  is  wending  its  way  westward. 
Notwithstanding  that  the  streets  are  broad,  and  an  infinity  of 
gardens  and  promenades  is  scattered  and  extended  on  both 
sides  of  the  Moscow  river,  with  a  circumference  of  twenty-five 
American  miles,  still  the  disease  has  been  awful.  With  a 
population  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  thousand,  there  have  been 
as  many  as  twelve  or  fifteen  hundred  cases,  and  six  hundred 
interments  per  day.  On  visiting  the  city  hospital,  a  fine  large 
structure,  admirably  adapted  to  ventilation  and  comfort,  and  well 
deserving  a  visit  from  a  stranger,  I  saw  only  a  few  cases  of 
the  disease  remaining. 

The  great  Railroad  in  process  of  construction,  has  met  with 


188  THE   GEEEK  CHURCH. 

unforeseen  difficulties  in  the  grading,  and  as  the  contractors,  in 
order  to  make  the  most  of  it,  will  procrastinate  the  work,  it  will 
not  be  completed  in  all  probability  short  of  five  years.  Our 
enterprising  countrymen,  Messrs.  Eastwick  and  Harrison,  whose 
establishment  I  visited,  about  six  miles  from  St.  Petersburg, 
and  who  have  employed  sixteen  hundred  men  in  their  foundries 
and  wood-work  shops  belonging  to  the  government,  had  a 
contract  for  one  hundred  and  sixty-two  locomotives,  and  twenty- 
five  hundred  passenger  and  freight  cars,  and  the  emperor  gave 
them  four  ^^ears  for  their  completion.  At  the  expiration  of  the 
second  year  the  work  was  completed  and  the  emperor  was 
informed  of  the  fact,  which  he  could  not  credit ;  the  answer  was, 
"  Will  your  majesty  please  visit  the  establishment  ?"  which  he 
did,  and  expressed  himself  in  warm  terms  of  satisfaction. 
Those  gentlemen  are  now  engaged  in  throwing  an  Iron  Bridge 
across  the  Neva. 

The  Russian  religion  is  Greek.  It  does  not  acknowledge  the 
supremacy _of  the  Pope,  the  emperor  being  at  the  head  of  the 
Church.  There  is  more  form  visible  than  among  the  Latins, 
and  more  repetitions  of  the  sign  of  the  cross,  and  they  prostrate 
themselves  in  the  churches  frequently.  Tliis  is  the  birthday  of 
one  of  the  Russian  saints,  consequently  one  of  their  festivals,  of 
which  they  have  a  great  number  in  the  course  of  the  year.  Last 
evening  I  attended  the  imposing  service  of  the  nuns  in  the  daz- 
zling chapel  of  the  convent  of  Strachnoy,  preceding  the  anni- 
versary of  the  patron  saint  of  to-day.  The  bleeding  form  of 
Christ,  suspended  on  the  cross,  surrounded  by  burning  lights, 
the  reflection  of  a  thousand  candles  on  the  gilded  images,  and 
the  burning  of  incense,  carried  my  mind  back  to  the  ceremonies 
of  the  Greek  church  at  Jerusalem,  during  the  Holy  Week. 

Leaving  the  interior  of  the  Kremlin  by  the  Gate  of  our 
Saviour,  where  all  who  pass,  by  an  ancient  custom,  uncover  the 
head,  one  passes  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  square  into  the 
bazaars,  which  are  worth  a  visit,  and  where,  it  is  said,  there  are 
ten  thousand  shops,  of  every  branch  of  industry. 

I  found  here  a  well-ordered  hotel,  kept  by  an  Englishman, 
where  I  am  quite  at  home,  athough  the  only  traveller  in  the 
house.  The  landlady  tells  me  I  am  the  only  American  who  has 
visited  them  this  year,  in  consequence  of  ihe  cholera  and  the 
revolutions  in  Europe,  with  the  difficulty  of  procuring  passports. 


WARSAW.  189 

In  Eussia,  all  strangers  are  obliged  to  publisli  for  ten  days  ir 
the  public  journals,  their  intention  to  leave  the  country;  which 
publication,  with  the  permission  of  sojourn,  is  quite  a  tax.  I 
have,  however,  escaped  all  that,  and  shall  depart  soon  for  "War- 
saw. 


XLYIII. 


Craco-w,  Poland,  1848. 

Since  I  last  wrote  you  at  Moscow,  I  have  travelled  over  one 
thousand  miles  in  Russia  and  Poland,  by  mail  coach,  private 
post,  and  lastly  by  railroad  from  Warsaw  to  this  place,  having 
had  but  one  upset,  without  injury,  and  the  breaking  of  an  axle 
on  another  occasion,  which  obliged  me  to  take  the  common 
wagon  of  the  country.  These  wagons  are  made  almost  entirely 
of  wood,  with  little  iron,  on  low  wheels,  and  very  light.  There 
not  being  any  seats,  the  only  resource  was  to  fill  the  wagon  with 
hay,  to  avoid  the  jolting.  With  a  pair  of  good  horses,  and 
sometimes  four,  on  the  full  jump,  and  a  rough  peasant  driver, 
one  gets  over  the  road  rapidly. 

I  have  passed  over  large  tracts  of  country  entirely  level,  there 
being  no  great  elevations  in  central  or  western  Russia — a  vast 
deal  of  uncultivated  and  thin  soil — long  distances  made  without 
signs  of  habitation  or  life,  and  presenting  a  desert  appearance — 
most  parts  of  the  country  thinly  wooded ;  and  it  was  gladdening 
to  the  eye  to  strike  a  town  or  village,  to  obtain  supplies,  but 
particularly  gratifying  to  arrive  in  Poland,  an  old  and  better 
cultivated  country,  with  more  evidence  of  civilization,  and 
means  to  support  life.  The  weather  has  favored  me  much, 
being  mild  and  dry,  and  the  roads  in  good  order. 

On  my  arrival  at  Warsaw,  on  the  banks  of  the  Vistula,  a  city 
with  a  population  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand,  I  was 
struck  with  its  dull  and  sombre  appearance,  under  the  iron  hand 
of  despotic  rule — liberty  of  thought  and  speech  being  suppressed. 
Here  I  found  the  Russian  troops  were  marching  out  of  the  city, 
to  take  up  winter  quarters,  after  a  general  review.  They  were 
composed  of  thirty-one  battalions  of  infantry,  forty-six  squa- 
drons and  eight  divisions  of  cavalry,  twenty  batteries  of  artillery 
— in  all  thirty-four  thousand  men,  ten  thousand  horses,  and  twc 


190  CRACOW. 

hundred  and  twelve  pieces  of  cannon.  It  was  a  brilliant  sight 
to  see  them  on  the  move.  The  Russian  government  is  exceed- 
ingly jealous  of  its  rights,  and  determined  to  maintain  its 
authorit3^  There  are  three  hundred  thousand  soldiers  ready  to 
march  to  the  frontier  at  a  moment's  warning. 

A  signal  telegraph  is  established  from  Warsaw  to  St.  Peters- 
burg, but  the  people  here  know  nothing  of  the  events  in  Europe. 
A  Warsaw  newspaper  is  a  curiosity ;  it  is  about  six  inches 
square — a  double  sheet. 

On  passing  the  frontier,  and  coming  to  Cracow,  I  was  ques- 
tioned particularly  why  I  was  going  out  of  my  route  on  my 
way  to  Berlin,  as  my  courier  pass  expressed ;  to  which  I  replied 
I  was  ahead  of  time,  and  wished  to  see  Cracow  in  passing.  The 
conversation  of  the  officer  was  of  a  nature  to  draw  out  my 
views,  but  I  was  on  my  guard.  After  which,  as  I  was  obliged 
to  pass  the  night  there,  he  was  extremely  polite,  and  told  me  the 
difficulty  he  had  to  obey  orders  in  the  visitation  of  luggage  and 
examination  of  papers;  he  was  even  obliged  to  take  off  news- 
papers as  envelopes  from  packages,  to  prevent  the  introduction 
of  news  from  the  adjacent  countries. 

Europe  is  in  a  dreadful  state,  and  as  yet  there  are  little  signs 
of  conciliation  or  harmony.  Germany  with  all  its  great  and 
small  kingdoms,  with  over  thirty  princes,  with  its  different  races, 
religions,  and  languages,  is  as  difficult  to  amalgamate  as  vinegar, 
oil,  and  water,  and  no  man  can  predict  the  result. 

The  horrible  massacre  at  Vienna,  the  revolution  in  Hungary, 
the  hanging  of  ministers,  &c.,  have  reached  us,  and  you  will  see  the 
accounts  in  the  papers.  I  have  been,  since  February  last,  either 
among  revolutions,  ahead  of  them,  or  after  them,  and  have 
seen  the  effects  produced,  so  that  I  have  become  accustomed  to 
them ;  but  I  hope  soon  to  be  out  of  the  way  of  European  com- 
motions, and  as  I  have  seen  all  the  sights  of  the  Continent  with 
very  few  exceptions,  I  shall  take  my  departure  for  one  of  the 
Ocean  Isles  where  may  be  found  some  tranquillity,  and  a  better 
climate  for  the  ensuing  winter. 

In  approaching  Cracow,  which  was  formerly  a  free  state  or 
republic,  enjoying  commercial  trade,  with  a  population  of  forty 
thousand,  it  presents  a  beautiful  view  with  its  churches  and 
spires,  but  on  entering  it  is  found  lifeless,  with  but  little  trade, 
and  a  miserable  population.     It  was  usurped  by  Austria  in  the 


THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  CRACOW.  191 

spring  of  1846,  after  the  horrible  massacre  of  the  nobles  by  their 
own  peasants,  in  Gallicia,  through  Austrian  intrigue,  of  which, 
you  are  undoubtedly  familiar.  The  city  is  antique,  and  is 
remarkable  for  being  the  former  residence  of  the  Polish  kings, 
whose  tombs  are  found  in  the  old  cathedral,  which  was  built  in 
the  fifteenth  century,  and  which  is  adjoining  the  palace,  and 
situated  upon  a  commanding  eminence.  The  cathedral  is  per- 
haps richer  in  treasures  and  costly  gifts,  dedicated  by  nobles, 
kings,  and  other  devotees,  than  any  north  of  Italy.  In  the 
crypt  under  the  pave  of  the  cathedral  into  which  one  descends 
by  torches,  are  found  the  massive  copper  coffins,  gilded  with 
gold,  of  all  the  Polish  kings.  Here  is  also  the  sarcophagus  of 
the  great  general,  John  Sobiesky,  with  his  crown,  sceptre,  and 
sword;  the  remains  of  Joseph  Poniatowski,  who  fell  at  Leipsig, 
and  I  well  recollect  the  spot  where  he  was  lost,  and  where  a 
monument  is  erected ;  likewise  the  remains  of  Kosciusko,  who 
is  so  well  known  in  our  own  country.  They  were  brought  here 
in  1817.  About  three  miles  from  the  city  I  ascended  a  mound 
of  earth  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height,  which  was  raised 
to  his  memory  by  all  classes  of  Poles,  who  wrought  four  years 
in  completing  it,  and  even  brought  portions  of  earth  from  the 
different  battle-fields  in  which  he  was  engaged. 

Here  is  found  an  immense  number  of  Jews  who  fled  from 
Spanish  persecution  in  the  middle  ages,  and  were  granted  an  asy- 
lum by  Casimir  the  Great.  They  have  a  fine  opportunity 
here  to  traffic  in  exchanges,  as  all  the  coins  of  Kussia,  Austria, 
Prussia,  and  Poland  are  known,  and  here  the  traveller  must 
make  his  exchanges.  Men  and  women  with  bags  in  their  hands 
present  themselves  on  the  arrival  of  a  stranger,  and  it  was  my 
luck  to  fall  into  their  hands,  having  Russian  funds  to  exchange, 
and  it  required  some  skill  to  accomplish  it  without  being  fleeced, 
as  I  was  surrounded  by  about  twenty  of  them,  and  they  hung 
together  like  a  chain. 

I  was  interested  in  passing  through  a  portion  of  Gallicia  to  the 
great  Salt  mines  of  Cracow.  The  country  about  here  is  beauti- 
ful and  picturesque.  The  town  of  Wieliczka  contains  a  popula- 
tion of  five  thousand,  and  is  mostly  undermined  by  the  salt 
works.  I  met  with  an  exiled  Pole  in  Cracow,  who  had  recently 
returned  from  Paris,  whom  I  invited  to  join  me,  as  he  had  never 
seen  the  mines,  and  who  acted  as  interpreter  in  the  Polish  Ian- 


192  THE  salt"" MINES. 

guage.  We  put  on  white  frocks  over  our  clothes,  and  hired  a 
number  of  boys  to  carry  lamps  and  a  supply  of  torches  to  illumi- 
nate the  subterranean  vaults.  We  placed  ourselves  with  the 
guides  in  a  sort  of  swing  attached  by  cords  to  the  main  rope,  and 
descended  to  the  first  stage  about  two  hundred  feet.  There  are 
four  stories  to  the  depth  of  about  thirteen  hundred  feet.  We 
then  by  the  aid  of  our  lamps  walked  through  the  wide  and  airy 
galleries  into  several  halls  and  chambers,  then  crossed  over 
bridges  spanning  salt  lakes  and  dived  deeper  down  from  one 
story  to  another  by  staircases.  It  is  the  most  extraordinary 
work  in  the  world.  Here  are  found  one  thousand  hands  con- 
stantly employed  by  the  Austrian  Government.  The  mines 
have  been  worked  since  the  ninth  century ;  and  although  one 
walks  for  miles  through  these  caverns,  which  undermine  a  whole 
city,  passing  through  galleries  one  thousand  feet  in  length,  and 
saloons  one  hundred  feet  in  height,  still  the  supply  is  inexhausti- 
ble. There  are  immense  saloons  with  candelabra  in  glittering 
crystal  salt ;  there  is  a  Gothic  church  ornamented  with  the  full 
length  figure  of  Christ  upon  the  cross.  Also  the  statues  of 
saints  as  large  as  life ;  and  once  a  year  in  the  presence  of  all  the 
miners  mass  is  performed.  One  of  the  saloons  was  in  the  form 
of  a  theatre,  and  was  fitted  up  for  the  emperor  of  Russia  when 
he  visited  the  mines  and  held  a  ball  there.  The  illumination  of 
these  vast  subterraneous  caves  with  torches,  throwing  the  lights 
upon  obelisks  and  columns,  with  inscriptions  dedicated  to  dis- 
tinguished persons,  produced  an  effect  indescribable.  The  rock 
is  hard,  and  is  cut  and  chiselled,  and  even  powder  is  employed 
in  blasting  it.  It  comes  up  in  blocks  of  an  oval  form,  about 
two  and  a  half  feet  in  length,  by  immense  windlasses,  driven  by 
horse  power,  and  is  laden  on  wagons  for  the  different  markets 
to  be  broken  up  when  received.  It  is  computed  that  four  rail- 
lions  of  tons  are  taken  out  annually  for  the  suj)ply  of  the  differ- 
ent governments  bordering  on  Austria. 


MADEIRA.  193 


1849. 
XLIX. 

Island  of  St.  Thomas,  "West  Indies,  1849. 

It  was  my  intention  on  leaving  Southampton,  to  spend  a 
montli  at  Madeira,  and  proceed  to  the  "West  Indies  bj  the  next 
monthly  steamer,  but  circumstances  prevented  it.  We  had  a 
rough  and  boisterous  passage  through  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  and 
only  reached  Madeira,  a  distance  of  one  thousand  two  hundred 
and  eighty  miles,  in  ten  days.  We  had  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty  passengers,  a  fair  proportion  of  whom  had  paid  full  tri- 
bute to  Neptune,  and  for  the  first  eight  daj^s  there  was  little 
contention  for  seats  at  table ;  but  after  getting  in  the  trade-winds 
and  balmy  air  from  the  African  coast,  the  summer  dresses  began 
to  appear,  the  awning  was  struck,  and  we  found  ourselves 
uncomfortably  elbowed  at  our  meals. 

We  had  about  twenty  passengers  to  land  on  the  island,  but 
to  our  surprise,  on  entering  the  harbor,  we  found  the  Portuguese 
authorities  had  got  frightened  by  the  cholera  reports  from  Eng- 
land, and  put  all  passengers  in  the  Lazaretto  for  ten  days. 
Having  had  considerable  experience  in  quarantines  in  the  east, 
and  learning  there  were  only  accommodations  for  one  half  the 
number  of  passengers  to  be  landed,  and  that  one  of  our  number 
was  dying  with  the  consumption,  and  believing  that  in  the  event 
of  his  sudden  decease  these  stupid  people  would  consider  it  a 
cholera  case,  and  I  might  be  imprisoned  for  a  month,  I 
promptly  concluded  to  continue  by  the  steamer  to  Barbadoes, 
the  first  windward  West  India  Island.  We  remained  in  the 
harbor  of  Madeira  twenty -four  hours,  exercising  the  greatest  pre- 
caution on  the  part  of  the  officers  in  the  boats  to  prevent  contact 
in  putting  supplies  on  board,  and  some  most  amusing  scenes 
took  place  among  the  boatmen,  who  looked  upon  us  all  as 
infected  with,  the  disease.  One  poor  fellow  had  brought  out 
some  canarv  birds  in  cages  for  sale,  which  were  handed  care- 

13 


194  BARBADOES. 

fully  to  a  sailor  on  the  foot-ladder,  and  the  purchaser  threw  the 
sum  demanded  in  the  boat.  With  the  rolling  of  his  boat  the 
sailor  caught  his  hand  to  frighten  him,  the  passengers  gave  a 
shout,  and  the  poor  fellow  dropped  as  if  seized  by  an  apoplectic 
fit;  his  face  was  of  a  ghastly  hue,  and  it  was  some  moments 
before  he  regained  his  self-possession.  He  had  exposed  himself 
to  a  quarantine  of  ten  days. 

The  town  of  Funchal  had  a  novel  appearance,  with  its  white 
houses  and  flat  roofs,  its  steeples,  and  turrets,  and  the  mountains 
rising  in  the  distance.  The  climate  was  beautiful.  "We  had 
thrown  aside  our  cloaks  and  overcoats,  and  were  enjoying  the 
genial  breeze,  and  requiring  protection  from  the  sun's  rays. 
Eipe  figs,  oranges,  and  other  fruits  were  brought  off  to  us  in  bas- 
kets. 

From  Madeira  to  Barbadoes  is  about  two  thousand  five  hun- 
dred miles,  which  we  made  in  thirteen  days.  It  is  the  most 
easterly  of  the  Caribbee  Islands,  and  lies  in  twelve  degrees  north 
latitude.  Notwithstanding  the  trade-winds  blowing  constantly 
in  our  favor,  the  heat  and  confinement  on  board  of  a  crowded 
steamer,  under  the  tropics,  were  quite  sufficient  to  cause  all  to 
rejoice  in  making  this  low  island,  which  is  seen  about  thirty 
miles  off,  and  is  about  the  size  of  the  Isle  of  Wight ;  say  twenty- 
five  miles  in  length,  and  fifteen  in  breadth.  It  is  richly  culti- 
vated, and  one  of  the  most  populous  islands  for  its  size.  There 
are  some  high  lands  called  Scotland,  resorted  to  by  invalids,  and 
from  its  being  the  first  island  that  has  the  trade-winds,  it  is  con- 
sidered the  coolest.  We  landed  at  Bridgetown,  the  capital,  upon 
Carlisle  Bay ;  it  is  a  considerable  town,  stretched  along  the  shore 
for  two  miles,  with  some  twenty  thousand  inhabitants. 

The  yellow  fever  was  committing  great  ravages  among  the 
British  troops  and  residents.  I  stopped  but  a  short  time  and 
then  took  the  steamer,  to  make  the  tour  of  the  other  islands 
landing  and  receiving  passengers  and  mails  at  the  English 
islands  of  St,  Lucia,  St.  Kitts,  Montserrat,  Dominica,  Tortuga, 
Antigua,  as  also  the  French  islands  of  Martinique  and  Guada- 
loupe,  affording  an  opportunity  of  sailing  along  all  those  beauti- 
ful and  picturesque  shores  on  board  of  a  large  and  commodious 
steamer,  with  but  few  passengers  and  mostly  islanders,  who 
could  point  out  all  the  striking  peculiarities  of  each  island,  town, 
mountain,  and  volcano,  as  tliey  presented  themselves.     At  one 


BASSETERRE.  195 

glance  in  passing  near  the  shore,  with  the  aid  of  a  glass,  you 
have  in  a  beautiful  slope  or  valley,  the  house  of  the  sugar 
planter  nearly  lost  in  the  foliage  of  gardens  of  bananas  and  cane 
fields,  with  the  slender  stems  of  thousands  of  cocoa-nut  trees 
forming  a  green  fence  upon  the  seashore.  Then  again  you 
have  immense  rocks  or  mountains  which  rise  up  from  the  sea, 
covered  with  evergreen  foliage,  their  summits  hung  with  white 
clouds ;  standing  as  pillars  at  the  entrance  of  some  deep  bay  or 
circuitous  cave,  formerly  the  secure  abode  of  pirates.  At  Mar- 
tinique they  told  us  that  they  had  had  several  slight  shocks  of 
earthquakes,  and  when  one  considers  the  sufferings  from  them 
as  well  as  hurricanes,  it  is  not  surprising  the  people  should  be 
excited.  The  country  around  St.  Pierre  is  quite  pretty,  with  its 
cane  fields  and  palm  trees,  intersected  with  winding  roads  and 
dotted  with  white  houses.  The  town  is  regular  and  cleanly,  and 
looks  more  European  than  most  of  the  English  islands. 

At  St.  Kitts  we  landed  two  fellow  passengers  from  Europe, 
residents  of  the  island.  The  town  is  called  Basseterre,  and  as  a 
writer  remarks,  the  valley  looking  from  the  sea,  in  softness, 
richness,  and  perfection  of  cultivation,  surpassed  anything  he 
had  ever  seen  in  his  life.  Green  velvet  is  an  inadequate  image 
of  the  verdancy  of  the  cane  fields  which  lie  along  this  lovely 
valley,  and  cover  the  smooth  acclivities  of  Monkey  Hill.  This 
hill  is  the  termination  of  a  range  of  great  mountains  which 
thicken  in  enormous  masses  in  the  centre  of  the  island.  The 
apex  of  this  rude  pyramid  is  the  awful  crag  of  Mount  Misery, 
which  shoots  forward  over  the  volcanic  chasm.  The  height  is 
three  thousand  seven  hundred  feet,  and  it  is  bare  and  black  at  the 
summit.     Monkej^s  still  exist  in  large  numbers  on  this  island. 

I  arrived  at  St.  Thomas  at  last,  alone,  having  lost  all  my 
fellow  passengers  from  England,  who  were  scattered  to  the  four 
winds ;  some  had  preceded  me  by  steamers  direct,  en  route  for 
South  America,  or  to  the  Leeward  Islands,  others  had  left  us 
from  time  to  time  in  the  Windward  Islands.  I  took  up  my  quar- 
ters at  the  hotel,  which  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  West  Indies, 
allow  me  to  say  for  the  information  of  those  who  may  come 
this  way. 

This  small  island,  belonging  to  the  Danes,  has  a  free  port,  and 
with  its  excellent  and  commodious  harbor  for  shipping,  has 
become  the  great  depot  for  goods  and  merchandise  for  the  supply 


196  ST.   THOMAS. 

in  part  of  some  of  the  other  islands,  and  the  coast  of  Yenezuela. 
The  population  is  some  ten  thousand,  and  is  composed  of  native 
Creoles,  French  and  Danes,  and  many  German,  French,  and 
English  merchants,  consequently  all  languages  are  spoken. 
The  town  is  prettily  built  on  three  hills,  rising  from  the  Bay, 
and  surmounted  by  picturesque  conical  mountains.  The  horse- 
back rides  are  very  good,  and  in  four  hours  one  can  make  the 
tour  of  the  island. 

In  consequence  of  the  emancipation  of  the  blacks  in  Santa 
Croix,  another  Danish  island,  after  the  insurrection  and  destruc- 
tion of  property  in  June  last,  the  Governor  gave  the  negroes 
here  their  liberty.  The  planters  complain  of  the  low  price  of 
sugar  and  the  difficulty  of  getting  the  blacks  to  work,  they 
being  such  an  indolent  race,  and  it  requiring  so  little  to  support 
life  in  these  warm  latitudes.  The  merchants  of  St.  Thomas 
have  suffered  much,  and  cannot  either  realize  for  goods  sold,  or 
extend  sales,  and  business  is  paralysed  in  the  "West  Indies,  with 
all  their  resources  and  beautiful  climate.  The  English  planters 
complain  of  inj  ustice  on  the  part  of  the  mother  country,  but  if 
they  are  not  satisfied  with  part  payment  for  their  slaves,  what 
will  the  holders  say  in  the  Danish  islands  who  have  received  no 
compensation,  the  mother  country  being  too  poor  to  pay  them  ? 

In  the  French  islands  they  complain  of  injustice  from  the 
new  Eepublic,  which  proclaimed  not  only  the  abolition  of  all 
slavery,  but  universal  suffrage,  which  sent  their  enemies  to  the 
National  Assembly  at  Paris,  as  members,  to  vote  against  their 
interests.  The  French  Republic  will  yet  do  justice  to  her 
colonies,  I  think,  but  in  the  interim  labor  is  considerably  sus- 
pended, and  the  crops  will  be  much  neglected. 

The  island  of  St.  Croix  lies  forty  miles  south  of  St.  Thomas, 
and  schooners  run  over  frequently  in  six  hours.  Having  some 
travelling  companions  who  are  planters  on  this  beautiful  island, 
I  sailed  for  West  End,  a  small  town,  and  of  much  less  import- 
ance than  East  End  at  the  other  extremity  of  the  island.  The 
rides  on  the  island  are  beautiful  and  picturesque ;  the  roads 
are  excellent,  being  mostly  level,  and  bordered  with  cocoa, 
palm,  lime,  and  other  tropical  trees,  affording  much  shade  and 
delight  to  the  eye.  The  immense  cane  fields  were  promising  a 
rich  reward  to  the  planter,  as  the  season  has  been  favorable  ;  but 
the  sugar  works  and  houses  of  the  planters,  which  were  formerly 


SLAVERY   OR   FREEDOM?  197 

annually  brushed  up  and  kept  in  good  repair,  are  much  neglected 
this  year,  since  the  burning  and  destruction  of  property  by  the 
blacks  in  the  insurrection.  Some  of  the  planters  are  complaining 
for  want  of  help,  but  others  say  they  get  on  tolerably,  and  I 
thought  the  gangs  under  the  new  system  worked  very  well.  It 
is  the  intention  of  the  new  governor  to  compel  able-bodied 
persons  to  work,  or  be  arrested.  I  had  an  opportunity  of  con- 
versing not  only  with  the  planters  themselves,  but  with  the 
negroes  in  their  cabins,  and  found  them  generally  satisfied ;  and 
in  reply  to  my  questions  as  to  the  difference  between  slavery 
and  freedom,  some  who  had  had  good  masters  found  themselves 
worse  off  than  before,  as  they  had  medical  attendance  when 
sick  ;  others  said  they  preferred  to  be  free  and  work  when  they 
liked. 

The  season  of  Christmas  at  St.  Thomas  was  less  noisy  than 
usual,  as  the  Governor  issued  orders  to  prevent  the  usual  parade 
through  the  streets  with  masks  and  music.  The  life  of  the 
judge  had  been  threatened  by  those  who  were  aggrieved,  but  the 
citizen  police  were  out  parading  the  streets,  and  all  passed  off 
quietly. 

I  found  some  old  acquaintances  resident  here,  at  whose  hands 
I  received  many  courtesies  rendering  my  stay  agreeable.  I  am 
now  awaiting  the  dejDarture  of  the  English  mail  schooner  to  visit 
that  part  of  South  America  of  which  the  Eepublic  of  Venezuela 
forms  a  portion. 


Caracas,  Republic  op  Venezuela,  South  America, 
January  15,  1849. 

The  English  steamer  not  arriving  at  St.  Thomas  before  the 
time  appointed  for  the  mail  schooner,  I  found  myself,  as  the  only 
passenger,  entire  possessor  of  the  ladies'  cabin,  excepting  an 
abundant  supply  of  cockroaches  and  ants,  which  infest  vessels 
long  navigating  these  seas ;  but  one  gets  accustomed  to  these 
annoyances,  however  frightful  they  may  appear  at  first.  Our 
schooner  of  ninety  tons,  London  built,  had  the  length  of  hold 
fitted  up  in  a  ladies'  and  gentlemen's  cabin  and  dining  saloon. 
She  carried  four   nine-pounders,  with  first,  second,  and  third 


198  LA  GUAYRA. 

officers,  who  mount  the  naval  cap  with  gold  band,  and  altogether 
was  a  miniature  ship  of  war. 

We  had  a  strong  trade-wind  with  a  heavy  rolling  sea  at  times, 
which,  with  the  unusual  pitching  of  such  a  small  vessel,  produced 
upon  me  more  effect  than  crossing  the  Atlantic.  The  second 
of&cer  and  carpenter  were  quite  sea-sick.  We  made  the  distance, 
however,  of  four  hundred  and  eighty  miles  in  the  short  space  of 
sixty-two  hours,  and  I  was  landed  on  the  beach  of  La  Guayra  at 
eight  P.M.  with  a  heavy  surf  rolling  in,  the  sailors  rowing  with 
all  their  strength,  and  it  really  looked  frightful,  as  the  harbor 
of  La  Guayra  is  an  open  roadstead,  and  much  exposed. 

"  The  chain  of  mountains,"  says  Humboldt,  "  that  separates 
the  port  from  the  high  valley  of  Caracas  descends  almost  directly 
into  the  sea,  and  the  houses  of  the  town  are  backed  by  a  wall 
of  steep  rocks,  with  but  a  few  hundred  yards  between  the  wall 
and  the  ocean,"  There  are  two  principal  streets  which  run 
parallel  along  between  the  wall  and  the  sea.  The  population  is 
about  eight  thousand.  It  was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in 
1819,  and  the  ruins  are  still  existing  in  many  parts  of  the  town, 
inclosed  by  front  w^alls  where  lots  are  not  occupied.  There  is 
no  vegetation  in  the  town,  and  with  the  exception  of  Cape 
Blanco  and  the  cocoa-nut  trees  of  Marqueta  in  the  distance,  no 
view  meets  the  eye  except  the  sea,  the  horizon,  and  the  heavens. 
It  is  one  of  the  hottest  places  on  the  globe,  the  air  being  stifling 
during  the  day,  and  frequently  at  night,  as  the  sea  breeze  is  less 
felt.  Along  a  deep  ravine  or  mountain  torrent  outside  of  the 
town,  the  change  of  air  is  delightful,  and  here  may  be  seen 
groups  of  females  and  children  in  the  morning,  bathing  in 
the  cool  and  invigorating  waters  which  descend  from  the  moun- 
tains. 

This  curious  old  city  of  Caracas,  lying  on  ground  sloping  to 
the  valley,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  a  bold  and  lofty  mountain, 
with  its  valleys  abounding  in  sugar  and  coffee  plantations,  was 
partially  destroyed  by  the  great  earthquake  of  1819,  of  which 
many  temples  and  buildings  in  ruins  still  tell  the  sad  story.  It 
is  three  thousand  four  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  There  are  two  roads,  the  old  and  new ;  the  first  is  only  for 
mules  and  donkeys,  and  is  much  shorter  than  the  other,  say 
twelve  miles  in  length ;  the  new  road  is  twenty-one  miles,  and  is 
winding   and   circuitous.     At    present   there   are   no   carriages 


CARACAS.  199 

running,  and  the  only  way  of  getting  liere  is  on  horse  or  mule- 
back. 

In  order  to  reach  the  place  you  ascend  about  six  thousand 
feet,  and  then  descend  to  the  city.  I  procured  a  mule  at  the 
hotel  at  La  Guayra,  having  sent  my  luggage  by  a  mule-team  in 
the  morning,  and  at  three  p.m.,  to  avoid  the  excessive  heat  of 
mid-day,  I  started  all  alone,  being  disappointed  in  a  companion. 
My  ride  was  lonely,  but  the  sights  were  majestic,  the  road 
winding  zigzag,  the  bold  and  lofty  mountains  towering  above 
with  the  most  gorgeous  and  luxuriant  growth  of  tropical  trees, 
with  immense  fields  of  cactus  interspersed,  thirty  feet  in  height ; 
the  precipice  below,  with  a  depth  of  from  five  hundred  to  one 
thousand  feet,  was  awfully  grand. 

Towards  sunset  I  found  that  my  mule  was  unable  to  carry 
me,  and  I  concluded  I  could  not  get  to  the  city  that  evening. 
I  stopped  at  a  rude  cabin  built  of  cane  and  mud,  and  inquiring 
for  a  Posada,  or  tavern,  ascertained  that  there  was  one  a  league 
further,  at  which  I  arrived  with  the  intention  of  resting  until 
morning.  I  found  I  could  get  no  bed,  but  could  get  a  horse  ;  I 
was  told  the  road  was  safe,  yet  I  felt  that  I  was  incurring  risk  in 
the  distracted  state  of  the  country,  and,  as  I  had  heard  of  the 
robbery  of  a  Frenchman  by  three  negroes,  I  felt  uneasy ;  I  pushed 
on,  however,  and  arrived  in  the  city  at  about  nine  o'clock  at 
night. 

This  city  has  a  population  of  some  forty  thousand,  composed 
of  the  native  population,  with  full  one-half  or  two-thirds  of  the 
half-breeds,  Indian,  and  black.  The  houses  are  of  stone,  one 
and  two  stories  high,  covered  with  tile,  with  grated  windows 
and  no  glass,  as  in  most  Spanish  countries  in  warm  climates. 
There  are  no  remarkable  public  monuments ;  in  the  cathedral, 
in  one  of  the  side  altars,  are  the  mortal  remains  of  General 
Simeon  Bolivar,  the  liberator  of  his  country.  The  state  house 
and  reception  rooms  of  the  president  are  not  unworthy  of  this 
young  republic ;  the  senate  chamber  and  house  of  representa- 
tives is  one  of  the  confiscated  Spanish  convents,  where  the 
unfortunate  massacre  of  several  members  took  place  last  year 
by  the  military,  in  consequence  of  the  threat  of  impeachment 
of  the  existing  president,  Monagas.  The  ex-president.  General 
Paez,  had  a  strong  party,  with  means  to  oppose  the  measures  of 
the  new  executive,  which  led  to  the  armament  of  vessels  of  war 


200  THE    REVOLUTIOISr. 

and  troops  on  both  sides,  as  you  have  seen  by  the  public  jour- 
nals, and  consequently  exhausted  the  treasury,  distracted  com- 
merce, and  almost  ruined  the  country. 

In  a  recent  contest,  several  vessels  of  the  Paez  party  have 
been  seized ;  and  the  American  steamer  Scourge,  brought  out 
for  them,  has  been  taken,  and  will  be  condemned.  The  city  has 
been  thrown  into  great  rejoicing  on  the  part  of  the  existing 
government,  to  the  discomfiture  of  the  friends  of  the  opposite 
side,  by  news  from  Maracaibo  that  the  castle  has  been  evacuated 
by  the  insurgents,  who  have  abandoned  some  of  their  vessels 
and  fled  to  New  Granada.  Flags  were  flying,  drums  beating, 
the  church  bells  ringing,  and  thousands  of  blacks  were  in  the 
streets  at  nine  o'clock  at  night,  crying  "Viva  la  Kepublica," 
"Viva  la  Libertad,"  "Viva  la  Constitution,"  with  maddening 
and  deafening  shouts.  I  joined  the  throng  at  the  house  of  the 
president,  and  found  upon  the  Plaza  about  one  thousand  men, 
of  mixed  colors,  with  the  black  sentinels  at  the  door,  in  round 
white  cotton  jackets  and  pantaloons,  a  sort  of  red  pointed  flitigue 
cap,  and  bare-footed.  I  entered  and  found  the  president,  who 
is  a  fine  military  looking  man,  with  black  moustache,  sur- 
rounded by  his  friends,  who  greeted  him  on  the  suspension  of 
hostilities.  I  could  not  help  thinking  how  little  these  people, 
without  the  means  of  education,  know  of  real  liberty,  and  the 
value  of  a  constitution,  and  the  respect  due  to  a  majority  of 
voices  in  the  popular  suffrage.  The  present  government,  which 
is  popular  with  the  blacks  and  lower  orders,  has  been  obliged  to 
make  great  concessions  and  promises,  which  would  bring  anar- 
chy, were  they  not  a  mild  and  easily  governed  race. 

The  people  are  naturally  indolent,  not  having  the  same  stimu- 
lant to  activity  as  in  the  cold  regions  of  the  north.  Eiding  in 
the  country  as  I  do  daily,  on  the  coffee  and  sugar  plantations, 
one  can  see  how  the  lower  classes  subsist ;  the  wild  cane  which 
grows  in  abundance  is  used  with  mud  and  straw  for  the  sides  of 
a  cabin,  the  roof  covered  with  the  leaves  of  the  palm  tree,  or 
other  material ;  a  shirt,  with  a  pair  of  drawers,  is  their  only 
covering;  their  furniture  consists  of  an  iron  pot,  and  a  jar,  to 
contain  water.  Two  or  three  bananas  a  day  are  sufficient  to  sup- 
port life.  Children  up  to  the  age  of  seven  cost  nothing  for 
clothing.  A  lovely  and  equitable  climate  the  year  round,  with 
a  soil  which,  with  proper  cultivation,  would  produce  anything. 


THE   BIRTH   OF   CHRIST.  201 

The  consumption  of  beef  is  greater  tban  in  any  country  I 
have  yet  seen ;  and  in  all  parts  of  the  suburbs  are  seen  slaugh- 
tering-places for  the  cattle  from  the  great  plains,  and  a  curious 
and  startling  sight  presents  itself  of  fences  made  of  bullocks' 
horns.  Cattle  in  large  numbers  have  been  sold  by  those  who 
feared  that  the  government  would  take  them  for  the  army,  or 
for  the  want  of  money,  at  two  dollars  per  head,  and  delivered 
in  the  city  at  from  three  dollars  to  five  dollars.  The  hides  are 
exported,  and  the  flesh  is  consumed  in  large  quantities  by  all 
classes,  particularly  the  lower  orders  ;  the  price  is  as  low  as  ten 
cents  per  six  pounds.  I  have  seen  so  much  of  it,  that  I  have 
almost  abandoned  eating  meat.  There  are  in  the  country,  hold- 
ers of  from  two  to  three  hundred  thousand  head  of  cattle  on  the 
vast  plains. 

I  have  just  seen  an  advertisement  of  an  exhibition  at  the 
theatre  for  Sunday  night,  called  the  Gran  Nacimiento,  or  Birth 
of  Christ,  which  usually  takes  place  at  this  season  of  the  year ; 
and  as  curiosity  led  me  to  see  the  exhibition,  I  must  describe  it 
to  you,  to  show  the  peculiar  tastes  of  these  people.  There  were 
some  one  thousand  five  hundred  persons  present,  of  all  classes  and 
colors ;  and  among  them  were  seen  the  scuttle-formed  hats  of 
the  priests,  and  their  black  robes,  and  the  white  and  black  man- 
tillas of  the  dark-eyed  damsels  of  Caracas.  The  roof  of  the 
theatre  over  the  parquette  was  the  vault  of  heaven,  with  the 
mild  full  moon's  rays,  and  the  twinkling  of  the  stars,  almost 
extinguished  the  light  of  the  lamps  in  the  carved  balconies  and 
boxes,  which  formed  the  inclosure,  and  extended  to  the  roofed 
building  in  the  rear,  for  the  stage  and  actors.  The  first  act  re- 
presented eight  children  dressed  as  angels,  after  which  appears 
Mary,  and  three  other  angels  descend  upon  a  white  cloud  and 
announce  the  conception ;  the  coronation  then  takes  place  by 
the  group  of  angels,  with  solos  and  duets,  accompanied  by  the 
orchestra  ;  after  which  appears  Joseph,  in  oriental  costume,  and 
accompanies  his  spouse  on  a  pilgrimage.  King  Herod  and 
others  are  introduced  in  the  performance,  as  well  as  Lucifer, 
from  the  burning  pit,  and  his  contest  with  the  archangel 
Michael,  who  destroys  him ;  finally  comes  the  birth  of  the 
infant  at  Bethlehem,  the  dances  of  the  shepherds,  and  the  adora- 
tion of  the  three  kings.  The  performers  were  all  mulattoes  and 
blacks. 


202  MORNING   ON   THE   MOUNTAINS. 

There  is  a  club-house  and  reading-room  here,  kept  by  an 
American,  wliich  is  frequented  by  the  foreign  residents  as  well 
as  the  natives. 

Our  Minister,  Mr.  Shields,  from  Alabama,  is  a  gentleman  of 
talent,  and  a  worthy  representative  of  his  nation.  He  occupies 
the  house  and  grounds  of  the  former  president.  Gen.  Paez, 
which  has  protected  this  property  from  spoliation.  In  dining 
with  him  I  made  the  acquaintance  of  two  of  the  members  of  the 
late  Congress  who  narrowly  escaped  when  the  attack  was  made 
upon  them,  and  were  much  indebted  to  Mr.  Shields,  who  secreted 
them  in  his  house  for  some  weeks  until  the  excitement  had 
subsided. 

This  is  an  equable  and  delightful  climate,  and  more  agreeable 
to  the  senses  than  either  the  extremes  of  heat  or  cold ;  the  night 
and  morning  air  is  to  be  avoided  by  invalids  in  consequence  of 
the  vapors  or  clouds  which  sometimes  descend,  but  during  the 
day  rise  by  the  attraction  of  the  sun's  rays. 


L.* 

Danish  Brig  of  "War,  Ornen, 
Island  of  Beatti,  St.  DoMixno,  January  25,  1849. 

I  TOOK  the  old  mountain  road  from  Caracas  on  mule  back  to 
LaGruayra  to  await  the  Venezuelan  mail  schooner,  bound  to 
Puerto  Cabello.  I  never  passed  over  a  more  rugged  road  or  one 
where  it  was  more  difficult  for  a  mule  to  keep  on  his  legs,  for 
rain  the  day  before  had  rendered  the  tortuous  and  winding  way 
very  slippery.  I  left  before  sunrise,  and  found  the  city  enveloped 
in  a  white  cloud  or  mist,  but  on  arriving  upon  the  summit  of  the 
mountain,  where  commences  the  descent  to  the  ocean,  the  sun 
had  risen  in  all  his  majesty,  and  dispelled  the  vapors  upon  the 
eminences,  while  Caracas  was  yet  invisible,  and  appeared  like  an 
immense  misty  sea  in  the  valley  below. 

The  rollers  or  surf  at  LaGuayra  are  perhaps  worse  than  any 
to  be  found  after  a  storm,  except  on  the  African  coast,  and  the 
roadstead  affording  no  protection,  most  of  the  vessels  had  put  to 
sea  the  day  after  my  arrival,  and  I  found  myself  in  company  at 
the  hotel  with  the  commander  of  the  Danish  brig  of  war,  Ornen, 
or  Eagle,  who  was  separated  from  his  vessel,  as  his  lieutenant 


PUERTO    CABELLO.  203 

was  obliged  to  put  to  sea  to  escape  a  lee  shore.  Being  a  parti- 
cular friend  of  a  Danish  commander  of  mj  acquaintance,  with 
whom  I  had  travelled,  and  whose  plantation  I  had  visited  at  St. 
Croix,  he  invited  me  to  join  him.  After  the  storm  had  abated, 
with  the  aid  of  surf  boats  and  men,  who  stripped  and  forced  the 
boat  forwards,  we  reached  the  ship's  boat,  and  gained  our  brig, 
bidding  adieu  to  the  frightful  white-caps  which  had  almost 
entirely  destroyed  the  breakwater  of  the  port,  and  produced 
such  a  deafening  noise  that  I  could  scarcely  sleep  at  night  at  the 
hotel  which  was  near  the  shore. 

One  day's  sail  brought  us  to  Puerto  Cabello,  a  beautiful  and 
safe  harbor,  which  is  resorted  to  for  repairing  vessels,  and  for 
purposes  of  commerce,  as  well  as  safety.  It  is  a  plain  Spanish 
town,  on  level  ground,  and  has  nothing  remarkable  to  offer  the 
traveller,  except  its  beautiful  rides  in  ascending  the  Cordillera 
of  Mountains  that  runs  parallel  with  the  coast,  and  then  winds 
along  the  banks  of  a  beautiful  small  stream  to  the  village  of  St. 
Stephen,  the  resort  of  the  foreign  residents  in  summer.  Our 
brig  had  formerly  visited  this  port  when  the  foreigners  had  fears 
of  an  attack  from  the  blacks  of  the  country,  and  as  the  report  of 
sixteen  thirty-two-pounders,  and  an  equipage  of  one  hundred 
and  two  men  and  officers  presents  a  formidable  appearance,  all 
passed  off  quietly.  We  were  received  with  great  hospitality  on 
the  part  of  the  German  merchants,  and  the  commander  and 
myself  had  always  horses  at  our  disposal. 

I  had  never  yet  seen  in  any  country  such  a  luxurious  growth 
of  vegetation  as  presented  itself  along  the  streams  in  the  valley 
of  the  interior.  This  country  produces  an  abundance  of  coffee, 
and  cacao,  from  which  chocolate  is  made,  and  my  eyes  had  never 
beheld  such  a  variety  of  tropical  fruits  and  in  such  profusion,  as 
in  windino;  alons;  the  banks  of  this  little  stream  on  horseback. 
The  coffee  plant;  the  cacao,  which  produces  a  sort  of  seed 
resembling  a  large  bean  ;  orange  and  lime  trees  filled  with  fruit ; 
cocoa-nut  trees  loaded  with  fruit,  falling  in  many  instances 
without  being  gathered ;  bananas,  which  produce  the  staff  of 
life  in  the  absence  of  bread,  and  which,  after  yielding  fruit,  are 
cut  down  to  spring  up  anew  without  culture  ;  the  beautiful  and 
tall,  broad-leafed  bread-fruit  trees;  with  the  graceful  palm,  and 
an  immense  variety  of  wild  trees  and  flowers  full  of  beauty.  It 
seems  as  if  nature  had  been  too  lavish  and  wished  to  outdo  herself, 


20i  CURACOA. 

and  that,  too,  to  an  ungrateful  people  who  would  not  gather 
through  indolence  that  which  was  forced  upon  them. 

The  new  steamer  Venezuela,  built  at  Pittsburg  by  a  New 
York  company,  for  the  navigation  of  the  Oronoko  river,  was  at 
LaGuayra  a  few  days  since.  At  Puerto  Cabello  I  found  the  offi- 
cers of  the  steamer  Scourge,  which  was  captured,  and  lies  in  the 
harbor.  I  think  she  was  unlawfully  seized  under  American 
colors,  although  brought  out  for  the  revolutionary  party. 

We  sailed  from  Puerto  Cabello  to  Curacoa  in  company  with 
the  French  brig  of  war.  La  Cygne,  and  arrived  a  little  before 
her,  taking  the  first  and  only  pilot  to  enter  that  pretty  harbor, 
with  its  narrow  and  difficult  passage,  which  resembles  somewhat, 
in  its  fortifications  on  each  side,  the  entrance  of  Havana.  We 
had  given  our  salute  and  been  responded  to  by  sixteen  guns 
from  the  fort,  when  our  rival  entered.  We  were  soon  visited 
by  the  aide-de-camp  of  the  governor,  and  the  officers  of  the 
Dutch  transport  ship  and  brig  of  war  on  the  station,  from  whom 
we  received  much  civility.  Through  the  politeness  of  Mr.  Slau- 
gard,  the  governor's  aide,  horses  were  procured  for  the  French, 
and  Danish  commanders  and  myself  to  visit  the  curious  caves 
of  Hatto,  on  the  north  side  of  the  island,  which  to  me  were  not 
very  interesting,  as  I  had  seen  others  of  like  formation  on  a  more 
extensive  scale  in  other  countries;  but  what  appeared  to  me 
curious  was  the  continual  dripping  and  formation  of  stalactites 
from  this  volcanic  and  coral  rock,  considerably  elevated  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  and  in  a  country  where  it  seldom  rains. 

The  island  is  generally  arid,  and  has  a  barren  aj^pearance ;  an 
insect  has  destroyed  within  a  few  years  almost  all  the  cocoa-nut 
trees.  The  trees  generally  are  of  a  stunted  growth,  and  where 
they  are  exposed  to  the  trade-winds  they  lean  or  shoot  their 
branches  in  an  opposite  direction.  The  guinea  corn  is  adapted 
to  the  soil,  and  is  produced  in  large  quantities.  Within  a  few 
years  the  government  has  introduced  the  growth  of  the  cochi- 
neal, and  with  success ;  and  Mr.  Slaugard  accompanied  us  to 
the  plantations,  where  we  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  pro- 
duction of  the  cochineal  bug  upon  the  cactus  plant.  The  aloes 
and  the  tamarind  fruit  also  produce  well. 

The  population  of  the  island  is  about  twenty  thousand ;  the 
town  itself  is  situated  upon  both  sides  of  the  harbor,  which 
extends  back  and  opens  into  a  large  bay  for  miles  in  depth,  and 


GENEEAL   PAEZ.  205 

in  both  borou<yhs  contains  some  six  or  eiglit  thousand  inhabit- 
ants.  The  houses  are  well  built,  after  the  Dutch  style,  and  have 
the  external  air  of  freshness  of  color,  comfort,  and  cleanliness ; 
but  the  present  race  sadly  represents  its  ancestors.  Nature  has 
withheld  her  bountiful  hand,  and  I  could  readily  contrast  the 
difference  between  the  people  here,  and  those  I  had  just  left. 
Stern  necessity  obliges  them  to  be  industrious,  and  in  all  j^arts 
women,  men,  and  children  are  employed  in  making  a  sort  of 
straw  or  cane,  into  hats,  cigar  cases,  baskets,  &c.  The  climate  is 
delightful,  perhaps  the  best  in  the  West  Indies  or  the  Spanish 
Main  for  invalids.  The  expenses  of  life  are  very  moderate,  but 
the  hotels  are  miserable,  with  no  reading-rooms  or  sources  of 
amusement  or  instruction  for  a  permanent  residence. 

The  language  of  the  common  people  is  the  Curacoa,  so  called, 
and  is  a  composition  or  patois  of  African,  Dutch,  and  Spanish. 
In  families  of  the  best  class,  and  among  the  officers  of 
government,  the  language  of  the  mother  country  is  spoken ; 
many  speak  English  and  French.  At  a  soiree  given  to  the  offi- 
cers of  the  ships  of  war  in  harbor  by  the  governor,  who  is  a 
finished  gentleman,  and  much  respected,  I  found  several  young 
ladies  quite  at  home  in  the  English  and  French  languages,  and 
also  quite  proficient  in  music,  though  they  had  never  left  the 
island. 

One  of  the  sources  of  revenue  of  Curacoa,  is  its  salt  pans, 
which  we  took  occasion  to  visit,  upon  the  borders  of  the  sea. 
The  water  from  the  ocean  is  let  in  in  sufficient  quantities ;  the 
sluices  are  then  closed,  when  the  process  of  evaporation  com- 
mences, and  with  the  strong  rays  of  the  sun  produces  an  abun- 
dant yield. 

In  compan}^  with  Mr.  Ellis,  formerly  minister  at  Caracas, 
who  brought  out  the  steamer  Scourge  for  the  Paez  party,  I  went 
to  visit  the  old  general,  who  had  chosen  Curacoa  for  a  residence, 
that  being  the  nearest  point  to  the  Spanish  Main.  He  was  alone 
and  somewhat  discouvsolate,  having  heard  of  the  capture  of  two 
of  his  sons,  who  had  been  sent  to  Caracas  as  prisoners  of  war ; 
his  fleet  had  been  mostly  taken  and  destroyed,  and  the  day 
before  we  had  seen  a  portion  of  the  Venezuelan  fleet  beating  to 
windward  in  passing  Curacoa.  He  is  a  man  of  middle  stature,  of 
dark  complexion,  not  remarkable  in  his  appearance  or  manner, 
though  he  has  at  times  when  animated  a  fiery  expression  of  the 


206  AT  SEA  AGAIN. 

eye,  and  is  said  to  have  been  the  best  lancer  of  his  country;  he 
speaks  only  Spanish,  and  has  never  had  the  advantages  of  much 
education,  but  is  a  self-made  man.  His  son,  who  came  in 
during  the  interview,  and  who  generally  accompanies  his  father, 
speaks  English  and  French  fluently. 

The  slave  population  is  small  in  the  island  of  Curacoa,  but 
the  negroes  seem  to  be  well  treated  and  contented.  The  com- 
merce of  the  town  is  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  the  Jews ;  a  fair 
proportion  of  the  small  currency  is  in  Spanish  dollars,  cut  in 
jFour  parts,  to  prevent  its  going  abroad  ;  while  the  piece  of  five 
francs  passes  currently  there  and  in  Venezuela  for  a  dollar,  and 
is  the  basis  of  circulation. 

I  could  find  no  vessel  for  Hayti  from  Curacoa,  and  Captain 
Irminger  persuaded  me  to  continue  with  him  to  St.  Thomas,- 
where  I  could  get  the  English  steamer;  and  finding  myself 
comfortable  on  board  with  my  every  want  gratified,  I  concluded 
to  do  so,  as  I  had  abundance  of  time  with  an  ordinary  passage, 
for  the  arrival  of  the  steamer.  But  in  this  I  was  disappointed, 
as  we  had  to  contend  with  a  violent  north-easter  for  several 
days,  which  prevented  our  making  an  easterly  course,  and  find- 
ing the  current  strong  to  the  west,  and  having  reachfed  the  south 
side  of  St.  Domingo,  we  took  shelter  in  a  bay  near  the  False 
Cape,  and  despatched  a  boat's  crew  ashore  in  search  of  wood, 
who  reported  that  it  could  be  obtained,  as  also  fresh  fish  from 
some  negro  fishermen  on  the  coast.  We  then  ordered  the  gig 
of  the  brig,  and  with  the  captain  and  several  of  the  ofiicers 
went  ashore,  where  we  found  two  sail-boats  and  four  naked 
Haytians,  who  were  in  want  of  tobacco  and  biscuit  in  exchange 
for  fish.  The  idea  had  occurred  to  me  that  if  I  could  get  to 
Jacmel  by  private  conveyance,  I  could  cross  the  island  to  Port 
au  Prince  on  horseback,  and  save  much  time  in  beating  up 
against  the  wind  and  current  to  St.  Thomas ;  but  I  had  my 
misgivings  in  trusting  my  life  in  the  hands  of  these  fellows  for 
eighty  or  a  hundred  miles  along  an  uninhabited  coast ;  I  found 
also,  as  far  as  I  could  understand  the  Creole  French,  that  they 
would  not  attempt  it.  We  made  sail  yesterday,  but  the  sea  is 
too  strong,  and  we  have  taken  refuge  under  the  lea  of  this 
Beattie  Island.  The  ship  would  run  back  to  Jacmel  and  land 
me,  but  positive  instructions  to  be  in  Denmark  without  delay 
prevent. 


OFF   FOR   HAYTL  207 

We  have  just  bad  some  fishermen  alongside,  two  of  whom 
appear  honest  and  decently  clad,  and  quite  intelligent.  For  a 
handsome  reward  on  my  safe  arrival,  they  will  convey  me  to 
Jacmel,  so  shall  leave  to-morrow  as  soon  as  the  weather  permits. 
You  will  hear  from  me,  if  I  arrive  safe  at  my  destination. 


LI. 

Jacmel,  Republic  of  Hayti,  Feb.  5,  1849. 
My  last  communication  was  from  on  ship-board,  at  anchor 
under  the  lee  of  Beattie  Island,  where  I  had  every  facility  for 
corresponding,  as  the  generous  and  gentlemanly  commander 
had  given  me  entire  possession  of  the  cabin  and  library  on  the 
main  deck,  from  which  I  had  at  will  a  full  view  of  the  tactics 
and  manoevres  of  a  man-of-war  vessel,  under  the  most  ligid 
discipline,  and  manned  by  the  most  hardy  and  fine  looking 
Danish  crew  I  had  ever  seen ;  whose  health  and  conduct  were 
the  care  and  pride  of  the  officers,  who  were  intelligent  from 
necessity,  as  the  naval  school  of  Copenhagen  obliges  its  inmates 
to  acquire  the  English,  German,  and  French  languages,  in  addi- 
tion to  a  general  education,  so  that  when  they  are  sent  abroad 
as  officers  they  are  at  home  among  the  great  powers. 

According  to  promise  the  Haytian  fisherman  came  alongside 
with  his  boat.  The  steward  had  provided  my  outfit  for  a  three 
days'  passage,  and  after  exchanging  gifts,  as  souvenirs,  with  my 
worthy  friend  Capt.  Irminger,  whose  kindness  I  shall  not  forget, 
I  embarked  in  the  frail  vessel,  half  loaded  with  dried  fish,  to 
make  a  coasting  voyage  of  upwards  of  one  hundred  miles  to 
this  place. 

Although  an  old  traveller,  I  had  been  extremely  undecided 
how  to  act ;  if  I  continued  with  the  brig  I  could  not  arrive  at 
St.  Thomas  in  time  for  the  steamer,  and  would  lose  a  month's 
time,  and  my  letters  had  preceded  me.  The  coast  of  Domingo 
and  Hayti  was  quite  uninhabited,  except  by  half-civilized 
negroes,  and  the  exposure  was  considerable  in  making  the  point 
of  False  Cape  with  a  rolling  sea.  I  had  however  decided,  and 
thought  my  confidence  was  not  misplaced  in  my  boatman.  The 
weather  was  very  warm,  with  a  full  moon,  and  ordinarily  a 
breeze  in  our  favor;  so  trustino-  in  that  Providence  which  has 


208  STOPPED   AT  SALTROU. 

protected  me  through  so  many  wanderings,  I  waved  my  hat  in 
reponse  to  the  salutations  from  ship-board  and  shot  aM^ay  before 
the  breeze  in  order  to  double  the  cape  before  night-fall,  in  which 
we  succeeded,  not  however  without  drenching  my  cloak  with 
the  spray.  I  never  saw  a  boat  more  skilfully  managed  than  by 
these  fellows,  who  hold  their  lives  in  their  hands  in  passing  that 
point,  where  it  looked  as  if  we  should  be  engulphed  every 
moment.  In  twenty-four  hours  we  arrived  at  the  residence  of 
my  men,  a  village  called  Saltrou,  of  four  hundred  inhabitants, 
living  in  cane  and  mud  houses,  with  thatched  roofs  ;  and  I  found 
to  my  surprise  that  we  had  unintentionally  created  a  great  excite- 
ment. One  of  the  fishermen  whom  we  had  first  met  at  False  Cape 
had  reported  that  he  had  seen  a  man-of  war  vessel,  and  a  white 
man  on  board  who  wanted  to  be  conveyed  to  Jacmel.  I  was  met 
at  the  beach  by  some  negro  officers  in  rusty  uniform,  and  bare- 
footed, who  escorted  me  before  the  colonel  and  other  officers  of 
this  military  despotism,  whose  cognomen  of  republic  is  a  farce. 
I  was  then  questioned  from  whence  I  came,  and  the  object  of  my 
visit.  I  had  my  passports  en  regie,  and  had  taken  the  precaution 
to  have  the  vize  of  the  captain  of  the  brig,  showing  my  inten- 
tions. The  colonel,  who  could  not  read,  and  spoke  but  little 
French,  began  to  abuse  the  boatman  in  the  Creole  tongue,  for 
bringing  a  man  from  the  direction  of  the  Dominicans,  with 
whom  they  were  at  war ;  but  his  secretary,  an  intelligent  black, 
and  one  out  of  six  who  could  read  and  write  in  the  village, 
gave  him  to  understand  who  I  was,  and  I  had  taken  an  indepen- 
dent course  in  manner  and  expression,  although  the  only  white 
man  or  stranger  in  the  place.  He  was  informed,  aside,  as  I 
learned  subsequently,  that  I  might  have  the  village  razed  to  the 
ground  by  this  vessel  of  war,  if  I  was  ill  treated.  I  then 
received  from  the  villagers  great  attention,  and  the  mother  of 
the  fisherman,  who  happened  to  be  one  of  the  elite  of  the  town, 
provided  the  best  she  was  capable  of.  I  was  detained  one  day 
and  night,  until  the  formalities  of  Haytian  law  were  fulfilled 
in  sending  information  and  an  escort  with  me  to  Jacmel  to  the 
authorities  of  the  place. 

As  good  fortune  would  have  it,  my  boatmen  were  good  and 
honest  fellows,  and  became  much  attached  to  me  from  my  con- 
duct towards  them.  The  colonel  wished  to  separate  me  from 
my  men,  and  send  me  by  a  barge  coming  to  this  place,  in  com- 


JACMEL.  209 

pany  with  a  group  of  all  sorts  of  people,  to  wliicli  I  demurred 
strongly,  and  he  finally  consented  that  my  boat  should  convey 
me,  but  in  company  with  the  other ;  so  I  took  my  departure, 
and  arrived  the  following  day.  On  my  arrival,  I  was  presented 
to  the  Commandant  du  Port,  and  other  authorities,  who  were  in 
full  uniform,  and  who  appeared  well,  and  showed  more  intelli- 
gence than  I  had  yet  found.  The  highest  official  with  whom  I 
conferred  relative  to  crossing  the  island  to  visit  the  capital. 
Port  au  Prince,  said  that  he  was  obliged  to  send  a  special  mes- 
senger to  the  President,  announcing  my  arrival  on  the  coast  from 
a  war  vessel,  and  that  he  would  probably  leave  about  the  same 
time  that  I  did. 

The  following  morning  I  departed  with  my  guide,  on  horse- 
back, and  at  mid-day  was  overtaken  by  a  black  officer  in  full 
costume  and  well  armed,  who  came  up  at  a  full  gallop,  and 
inquired  if  I  was  the  individual  he  was  directed  to  join.  I  con- 
cluded I  was  to  be  ordered  back,  but  such  was  not  the  case.  He 
had  almost  ruined  his  horse  in  overtaking  me. 

The  distance  across  from  Jacmel  to  Port  au  Prince  is  sixty- 
six  miles,  along  deep  valleys  watered  by  ever-living  streams, 
and  only  traversed  by  horses,  mules,  and  donkeys,  there  being 
from  eighty  to  ninety  fording-places,  produced  by  the  windings 
of  the  little  rivers.  The  valleys  are  rich  and  fertile  in  the 
extreme.  The  mountains  to  be  crossed  are  very  lofty,  and 
covered  with  a  profusion  of  verdure  and  forestry  ;  they  present 
one  of  the  grandest  scenes  in  all  the  West  India  Islands,  and 
prove  the  assertion  that  the  blacks  have  the  jewel-island  of  all 
the  Antilles ;  but  how  mortifying  the  reflection  should  be  to 
them,  that  what  was  once  such  a  source  of  riches  to  France,  and 
to  the  islands,  and  what  with  industry  might  be  made  a 
paradise,  is  now  so  woefully  neglected,  and  falling  back  into 
barbarism. 

Agriculture  is  very  much  neglected  from  the  want  of  a  dispo- 
sition to  labor,  as  the  blacks  will  not  work  for  themselves  or 
others,  and  their  wants  are  trifling  and  readily  supplied.  The 
government  is  a  military  despotism,  and  exhausts  the  country 
by  its  levies  of  troops,  and  taxation.  It  has  a  standing  force  of 
some  twenty  thousand  men,  and  is  now  at  war  with  the  Domi- 
nicans at  the  east  end  of  the  island. 

Port  au  Prince  has  a  population  of  about  twenty  thousand, 

U 


210  POET  AU   PRINCE. 

composed  of  all  colors,  with  perhaps  one  hundred  whites.  It 
has  a  fine  harbor,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  being 
situated  in  an  agricultural  and  cultivated  country. 

The  city  is  mostly  composed  of  frame  buildings,  although 
there  are  many  of  other  materials,  covered  with  slate  and  shin- 
gles, but  it  has  a  dull  and  dusky  air  for  the  want  of  paint.  The 
Government-House,  which  is  occupied  by  Soulouque,  with  the 
grounds  inclosed,  is  quite  extensive,  and  the  array  of  infantry, 
cavalry,  and  artillery  within  the  grounds,  looks  formidable  ;  but 
instead  of  the  simplicity  of  a  republican  government,  it  has  the 
appearance  of  the  residence  of  a  tyrant, 

I  arrived  quite  a-propos  on  Saturda}^  morning — the  market- 
day — when  the  inhabitants  of  the  country  come  in  with  their 
products  without  a  permit.  They  are  permitted  to  do  so  from 
Friday  night  to  Monday  morning ;  on  the  other  days  of  the 
week  a  passport  must  be  obtained,  which  is  quite  a  tax  to  them ; 
and  although  it  is  arbitrary,  and  helps  the  government,  it  may 
have  a  good  effect  in  keeping  them  from  idling  their  time  in  the 
city,  instead  of  being  at  work  at  home,  Sunday  was  the  gala- 
day,  and  the  great  review  of  the  troops  by  the  President,  whom 
I  saw  in  full  uniform,  attended  by  a  numerous  staff,  and  some 
of  the  companies,  who  were  well  dressed,  and  appeared  quite 
militaire.  Several  of  them  looked  well  in  the  distance,  but 
their  rusty  uniforms  would  not  bear  inspection.  The  blacks  are 
fond  of  military  display.  Chapeaux,  feathers,  and  gold  lace 
give  them  great  importance,  and  one  sees  generals  and  colonels 
sufficient  for  a  British  army. 

I  passed  a  day  with  the  Consul  General  of  France,  and  the 
English  Vice-Consul,  at  their  villas,  a  few  miles  from  town,  I 
had  met  the  former  in  my  travels,  and  now  obtained  much  infor- 
mation relative  to  the  massacre  of  the  colored  people  by  the 
blacks,  last  April.  He  had  taken  a  noble  stand  in  their  favor, 
and  had  protected  large  numbers  under  his  flag,  in  his  own 
house ;  and  having  a  vessel  of  war  in  the  harbor,  he  effected, 
under  cover  of  night,  the  embarkment  of  many  of  the  most 
distinguished  and  intelligent  mulattoes. 

The  ignorant  blacks,  jealous  of  the  mixed  castes,  whose  intelli- 
gence and  wealth  were  far  superior  to  their  own,  had  resolved 
on  a  general  extermination  and  pillage.  Since  then,  however,  a 
French  war  ship  is  constantly  in  port,  and  there  is  now  a  better 


SUMMER   IN   WINTER.  211 

understanding  between  the  races.  The  President,  who  is  a  black, 
had  lent  himself  to  his  own  color,  but  soon  saw  the  error. 
Monsieur  Eebaud,  the  consul,  has  just  returned  from  St. 
Domingo,  and  effected  the  release  of  one  hundred  and  sixty 
Ilaytian  prisoners,  who  had  been  incarcerated  three  years. 
This  act,  with  the  fearless  exposure  of  his  own  life  in  April  last, 
among  the  mob,  for  the  preservation  of  families  from  massacre, 
and  threatening  the  President  to  fire  upon  the  town  if  more 
blood  was  shed,  has  endeared  him  much  to  the  colored  people 
of  the  island. 

It  has  been  said  that  confidence  in  the  common  people  of  the 
country  is  rarely  misplaced,  and  that  strangers  heretofore  could 
travel  over  the  country  by  day  or  night  without  being  robbed 
or  molested ;  and  I  must  add,  that  in  most  cases  I  have  been 
treated  with  great  civility. 

In  the  mountains,  at  night,  we  met  with  the  sable  troops 
bivouacked  around  their  camp  fires,  en  route  for  the  war 
declared  against  the  Dominicans.  Very  little  clothing  is 
required  in  this  climate,  and  scores  of  women  and  girls  may  be 
seen  washing  clothes  by  the  side  of  the  streams,  with  no  other 
covering  than  a  handkerchief;  while  the  little  naked  urchins  are 
basking  like  black  snakes  on  the  rocks,  in  the  sun's  rays. 

I  have  just  returned  from  the  north  side  of  this  little  conti- 
nent, whose  circumference,  by  an  even  line,  is  about  one  thou- 
sand miles,  and  am  now  waiting  the  arrival  of  the  steamer  to 
proceed  to  Jamaica.  At  present,  the  drought  is  excessive  on  the 
plains,  and  the  heat  of  the  sun  almost  overpowering ;  and  I  can 
scarcely  realize  that  while  I  am  writing,  dressed  in  light  summer 
clothing,  with  my  unglazed  shutters  wide  open,  and  the  birds  sing- 
ing merrily  in  the  cocoa-nut  trees  of  the  garden,  that  in  this  month 
(February)  you,  at  home,  are  muffled  in  furs,  and  have  another 
music  in  the  chinkling  sleigh  bells.  This  town,  Jacmel,  with  a 
population  of  some  eight  thousand,  stands  at  the  head  of  a  fine 
bay  (the  lower  town  is  the  commercial  portion),  and  is  built 
along  the  shore,  near  which  lies  the  shipping,  that  takes  the 
products  of  the  countr}^,  principally  coffee  and  logwood.  The 
upper  town  is  built  on  the  hill,  and  in  entering  the  port,  presents 
a  pretty  appearance  ;  but  the  effect  is  soon  lost  with  bad  paved 
streets  and  indifferent  houses.  I  was  pleased  to  find  a  number 
of  schools  in  the  towns  and  cities. 


212  KINGSTON. 

I  am  gratified  in  having  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  a  South 
American  Eepublic,  and  a  Black  Eepublic,  both  of  which  are 
failures,  as  they  have  resolved  themselves  into  military  des- 
potisms, without  the  great  fundamental  principles  of  religion 
and  education,  which  I  trust  we  shall  always  preserve  in  the 
United  States. 


LII. 

Havana,  March  22,  1849. 

I  STARTED  for  Jamaica  in  the  English  steamer,  which  proved 
to  be  our  old  New  York  favorite,  the  Great  Western.  After 
landing  at  Kingston  she  proceeded  to  San  Jago  de  Cuba,  giving 
me  nearly  a  week's  sojourn  on  the  island,  prior  to  embarking 
for  the  island  of  Cuba. 

Kingston,  although  quite  a  large  town,  was  exceedingly  dull. 
The  colonists  complain  bitterly  of  the  mother  country ;  an 
immense  number  of  estates  have  been  thrown  up,  the  price  of 
labor  demanded  by  the  manumitted  blacks  exceeding  the  ability 
of  the  planter  to  grow  sugar  in  competition  with  the  slave- 
holding  colonies.  Various  expedients  have  been  tried  by  the 
English  to  introduce  laborers  from  the  East  Indies,  and  have 
proved  a  failure.  One  large  planter  informed  me  that  the 
apprentice  system  was  now  found  to  be  the  best.  All  captured 
slaves  are  apprenticed  for  a  number  of  years,  and  not  under- 
standing the  language  of  the  country,  they  apply  themselves 
readily  to  labor,  and  become  attached  to  the  estate  on  which 
they  are  placed,  and  with  good  treatment  show  no  disposition  to 
leave.  Although  Kingston  is  a  quiet  and  uninteresting  town, 
lying  on  a  slope  with  wide  and  unpaved  streets,  and  sandy  soil, 
still  many  of  the  houses,  constructed  of  wood  or  stone,  two 
stories  high,,  setting  a  little  back  from  the  street,  with  verandas 
above  and  below,  have  an  air  of  convenience  for  a  warm  climate. 
I  found  a  very  good  and  retired  hotel,  full  of  English  comforts, 
and  kept  by  an  English  lady.  The  hotels  generally  are  only 
tolerable. 

I  enjoyed  a  rest  after  my  fatigues  in  Hayti,  and  then  made 
some  excursions  in  the  interior.  The  capital  of  the  island, 
Spanish  Town,  offers  nothing  of  interest  aside  from  the  public 


THE    HOUSE    OF    ASSEMBLY.  213 

buildings,  tlie  House  of  Assembly,  the  residence  of  the  governor, 
and  the  military  barracks  for  the  black  troops.  The  white 
regiment  of  English  soldiers  is  stationed  at  New  Castle,  an 
elevated  point  in  the  mountains,  some  fifteen  miles  from  Kingston, 
where  they  enjoy  better  health  than  they  would  at  the  latter 
place,  and  can  be  called  upon  when  needed. 

The  House  of  Assembly  was  in  session.  It  is  composed  of 
forty-seven  members,  a  respectable-looking  body,  the  largest 
proportion  of  whom  are  white,  though  there  are  some  mulattoes 
and  one  black  among  them.  The  debate  was  rather  interesting, 
as  tending  to  reduce  the  burdens  of  the  island,  the  taxes  being 
enormous  for  their  present  reduced  resources ;  but  the  governor, 
bishop,  and  other  officials,  appointed  by  the  crown,  with  fat 
offices,  being  members  of  the  Council  or  Upper  House  of  twelve, 
bolted,  I  understood,  and  I  suppose  had  their  own  vaxj.  The 
Court  of  Assize  was  holding  its  term  while  I  was  in  the  capital. 
On  entering  the  court-room  I  found  a  crowd  of  blacks  and 
mulattoes,  drawn  thither  by  the  trial  of  a  negro,  who  occupied 
the  prisoner's  box,  for  the  murder  of  one  of  his  race  in  a  night 
fracas.  I  made  my  way  through  to  get  a  view,  and  hear  the 
evidence,  and  could  not  without  difficulty  command  my  gravity. 
The  judges  and  lawyers  were  in  black  robes,  agreeably  to  the  Eng- 
lish forms  ;  the  jury  were  half  white,  the  balance  being  negroes 
and  mulattoes.  The  evidence,  on  the  part  of  the  blacks  who 
were  present  at  the  fight,  was  in  such  broken  language,  and  so 
contradictory,  that  the  counsel  and  judges  were  at  times  obliged 
to  give  vent  to  a  suppressed  laugh,  and  in  which  I  heartily 
joined,  but  was  soon  stopped  by  the  cry  of  "silence,"  coming 
loudly  from  the  mulatto  criers  in  regimentals. 

Jamaica  is  a  fine  island,  and  has  been  one  of  the  most 
productive  of  the  group.  The  views  in  the  interior  are  varied, 
and  the  mountain  ranges  present  a  great  variety  of  magnificent 
scenery,  and  a  great  diversity  of  climate ;  but  the  island  in 
general  has  sadly  fallen  off  from  its  ancient  prosperity.  The 
distance  from  Kingston  to  Havana,  seven  hundred  and  forty 
miles,  was  made  under  favorable  circumstances,  the  ship  and 
passengers  behaving  well.  The  portion  of  the  latter  who  had 
never  seen  Havana  were  struck  with  the  cheerful  and  picturesque 
views  in  the  distance,  as  we  approached  the  harbor,  on  the  left 
of  the  narrow  channel  or  entrance  of  which  stands  the  old  Moro 


214  HAVANA. 

Castle,  with  its  bastions  well  fortified,  and  on  the  opposite  side 
the  Punta,  another  strong  fort,  and  the  immense  Tacon  prison, 
with  its  imposing  exterior. 

Being  already  familiar  with  the  island,  nothing  struck  me  as 
new  except  such  innovations  as  had  been  made  upon  old  Spanish 
customs,  since  my  last  visit ;  but  I  well  recollect  the  impressions 
made  upon  me  when  I  first  landed  upon  its  shores  and  could 
enjoy  the  surprise  of  some  of  my  fellow  passengers  when  they 
beheld  the  peculiar  construction  of  the  buildings,  the  narrow 
streets,  and  the  volante,  or  carriage  of  the  country  I  repeat,  a 
stranger  is  surprised  and  amused  at  seeing  such  things  for  the 
first  time,  and  as  these  vehicles  dash  along  the  Paseo  or  public 
jDromenade,  in  long  files  with  fleet  horses,  filled  with  ladies  in 
full  dress,  with  mantillas  instead  of  bonnets,  enjoying  the  balmy 
air  before  the  setting  sun,  they  cannot  but  prove  attractive  to 
him. 

So  much  has  been  said  and  written  about  Havana  that  I  shall 
not  attempt  a  description.  Suffice  it  to  say,  I  found  that  the 
same  causes  which  extend  the  suburbs  of  our  cities  have  here 
had  their  effects,  for  since  a  line  of  omnibuses  was  established, 
the  environs  of  Cero  have  been  beautified  for  about  three  miles 
out,  and  there  are  now  many  delightful  residences  there.  When 
passing  the  country-house  where  Santa  Anna  formerly  resided, 
and  where  I  saw  him  engaged  in  his  favorite  sport  of  cock-fight- 
ing three  years  ago,  a  crowd  of  thoughts  came  in  my  mind,  of 
the  immense  conflicts  and  conquests  growing  out  of  his  return 
to  Mexico ;  and  now  I  find  him  banished  again,  and  living  in 
retirement  in  the  suburbs  of  Kingston,  Jamaica. 

The  cit3^,  in  fact  the  island  in  general,  is  enjoying  its  usual 
prosperity  under  the  existing  institution  of  slavery,  but  in 
a  more  grateful  aspect  than  formerly,  by  reason  of  the  suppres- 
sion of  the  slave  trade  to  a  great  extent.  In  consequence  of  the 
drought  the  sugar  crop  will  be  much  less  in  quantity,  but  the 
large  prices  obtained  for  it  will  make  good  the  deficiency. 

The  Ilabaneros  are  fond  of  music,  and  have  been  in  raptures 
with  the  Opera  Company  who  have  now  left.  They  have  the 
Tacon  Theatre,  an  immense  structure,  the  interior  of  which  is 
chastely  ornamented,  with  boxes  separated  by  slight  railings, 
and  open  gilded  trellised  work  in  front ;  when  filled  with  ladies 
in  full  dress  it  produces  a  beautiful  spectacle.     The  Eavels  are 


SUNDAY   SERVICES.  215 

now  doing  all  tlie  business.  The  steamer  for  Charleston  has 
taken  the  family  of  children  called  "The  Viennese  Dancers," 
who  have  done  better  at  Matanzas  than  here. 

The  carnival  season  had  ended  wheti  I  arrived,  but  having 
already  passed  several  carnivals  here  and  in  different  parts  of 
Italy,  it  was  no  great  loss.  The  Grand  Catalan  Benevolent 
Society  Masquerade  Ball  did  not  come  off  as  usual  in  the  theatre 
this  year,  but  was  held  in  three  distinct  places,  on  a  Sunday 
evening,  according  to  custom.  When  held  at  the  Tacon,  where 
I  saw  it  once,  with  six  thousand  persons  attending  it  attired  in 
all  possible  variety  of  costumes  and  dances,  while  outside,- the 
Paseo  or  public  promenade  contained  many  thousands  more, 
under  the  mild  rays  of  a  full  moon,  dancing  to  the  sounds  of 
banjos,  and  other  discordant  music;  it  was  really  a  novelty,  and 
like  all  new  visitors  I  enjoyed  it,  but  now  I  gaze  upon  it  with 
indifference. 

A  few  days  since  I  met  with  a  travelling  acquaintance  who 
had  accompanied  me,  when  I  was  last  on  the  island,  to  its  south 
side,  where  we  visited  the  sugar  estates,  and  made  ourselves 
familiar  with  the  whole  operation  of  grinding  the  cane,  and  boil- 
ing and  granulating  the  extract  into  sugar.  Afterwards  we 
stopped  at  a  small  Spanish  town  at  the  termination  of  the  rail- 
road, which  was  exceedingly  dull,  except  on  festivals,  or  to  those 
who  take  an  interest  in  cock-fighting,  for  which  the  Spaniards 
have  a  great  passion,  congregating  here  in  goodly  numbers,  from 
town  and  country,  in  the  arena  of  a  small  theatre,  twice  a  week, 
to  exercise  this  cruel  practice,  in  which  one  of  the  combatants 
must  be  killed  to  decide  their  heavy  bets. 

On  Sunday  morning  we  attended  the  parish  church,  where  a 
large  number  of  ladies  had  assembled,  with  their  flowing  white 
and  black  lace  mantillas,  gracefully  thrown  over  the  back  of  the 
head  and  shoulders,  kneeling  and  sitting  in  groups  upon  their 
rugs  on  the  stone  floor  of  the  church,  apparently  devout,  and 
watching  the  changes  of  the  service,  while  their  negro  servants 
in  livery  were  placed  beside  them.  A  detachment  of  cavalry 
was  also  upon  their  knees,  and  two  of  the  privates  in  the  same 
position,  with  drawn  swords,  were  placed  beside  the  priest  at  the 
altar.  During  the  several  changes  of  the  service  the  trumpeter 
of  the  troops  would  sound  his  shrill  bugle,  and  the  old  walls 
seemed  to  shake.     Service  being  done  many  of  the  ladies  crossed 


216  A   FETE   ON   THE   STEAMER. 

over  to  the  flmcj  shops,  which  were  all  open,  to  make  their  pur- 
chases. Soon  after  the  country  people  begin  to  arrive  on  horse- 
back, with  their  game  chickens  under  their  arms,  and  in  this 
way,  or  in  some  other  diversion,  they  pass  the  Sabbath,  which 
to  them  is  considered  a  festival  or  holiday. 

The  steamer  Isabel,  of  the  Charleston  line,  has  just  left. 
The  evening  before  her  departure  her  owner,  who  is  from 
Charleston,  gave  an  entertainment  on  board  which  passed  off 
well.  The  family  of  the  Captain  General  of  the  island,  and 
several  of  the  Spanish  nobility,  with  a  number  of  the  consuls, 
and  many  English,  German,  and  American  ladies  and  gentlemen, 
to  the  number  of  a  hundred,  after  a  dance  on  deck  to  the 
music  of  the  band,  sat  down  to  a  magnificent  supper.  The 
steamer  lay  off  in  the  harbor,  and  we  were  taken  on  board  by  a 
steam  ferry-boat.  The  deck  of  the  steamer,  which  was  well 
lighted  up,  and  a  stream  of  rockets  flying  in  the  air,  produced  a 
fine  effect  from  the  shore. 

The  season  of  Lent  will  soon  be  over,  when  the  functions  of 
the  Holy  Week  will  take  place ;  but  having  described  to  you 
the  ceremonies  at  Jerusalem,  and  the  great  and  gorgeous  display 
at  Rome  under  Pius  IX.,  I  fear  I  shall  have  but  little  to 
communicate  on  this  occasion.  I  could  have  hardly  thought 
while  in  Rome,  one  year  since,  hearing  the  enthusiastic  multi- 
tudes singing  VIVAS  to  Pio  NoKO,  that  he  would  so  soon  be 
banished  from  his  temporal  and  spiritual  seat. 


Lni. 

Havana,  April  10,  1849. 
This  is  the  last  of  the  five  holidays,  during  which  the  custom- 
house is  closed,  and  commerce  suspended.  The  Passion  Week 
ends  to-day,  and  I  have  concluded  to  give  you  some  of  the 
details,  without  comment,  from  which  you  can  draw  your  own 
conclusions.  I  find  that  there  is  a  great  difference  of  opinion 
among  the  Spaniards  themselves  as  to  the  utility  of  keeping  up, 
in  this  enlightened  day,  the  observance  of  customs  which  were 
practised  in  barbarous  ages,  and  are  divested  in  most  cases  of  the 
imposing  and  magnificent  ceremonies  at  Rome,  during  the  Holy 
Week. 


HOLY   THURSDAY.  217 

Commercial  men  dislike  the  prostration  and  interruption  of 
trade,  which  continues  nearly  a  week,  and  which  produces 
great  hurry  and  bustle  in  loading  and  discharging  vessels,  prior 
to  the  closing  of  the  custom-house  ;  but  on  the  part  of  the  negro 
population  the  festivals  are  much  enjoyed.  Dressed  in  all  the 
ilnery  possible,  the  sable  damsels  may  be  seen  with  white  and 
black  mantillas,  and  fans  in  their  hands,  forming  a  portion  of 
the  church  attendants,  sitting  or  kneeling  upon  the  marble 
pavement,  side  by  side  with  the  wealthy  classes,  kneeling  and 
reposing  upon  rugs  brought  by  liveried  servants.  In  the  house 
of  worship  no  distinction  is  made  between  bond  or  free,  black  or 
white  ;  all  enjoy  the  same  religious  privileges. 

On  Jueves  Santo,  or  Holy  Thursday,  after  ten  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  Havana,  the  noisy,  bustling,  active  city,  is  in  deep 
repose,  and  for  forty-eight  hours  all  is  silent ;  not  a  vehicle  is 
allowed  to  pass  ;  the  bells  are  muffled  ;  the  sentries  and  military 
guards  have  their  arms  reversed  ;  the  flags  of  all  the  vessels  are 
half-mast ;  the  altars  of  the  churches  and  convents  are  decorated 
with  the  figures  of  angels  and  cherubim,  in  gold  and  silver 
tinsel  robes,  bearing  in  their  hands  the  instruments  of  torture, 
symbolical  of  the  crucifixion  of  Christ.  In  the  Santa  Catalina, 
which,  as  well  as  some  eight  or  ten  other  churches,  was  illumi- 
nated with  hundreds  of  wax  candles,  and  visited  by  thousands, 
is  the  figure  of  Christ  bearing  his  cross,  and  borne  down  by  its 
crushing  weight  nearly  to  the  marble  pave  ;  a  little  further  on 
are  two  other  figures,  representing  the  flagellated  and  the  muti- 
lated body ;  the  third  Christ  being  in  a  sitting  posture,  bound 
and  bleeding  from  his  wound. 

The  hosts  of  ladies  who  scarcely  ever  appear  in  the  streets 
unless  in  volantes,  are  obliged  to  make  use  of  their  tiny  feet,  and 
from  the  churches  wend  their  way  to  the  Plaza  d'Armas,  a 
beautiful  promenade  in  front  of  the  governor's  house,  where  by 
the  light  of  the  moon  they  can  exchange  glances  and  salutations 
with  friends,  and  listen  to  fine  music  from  the  military  band. 

On  Viernes  Santo,  or  Good  Friday,  an  immense  procession, 
composed  of  the  clergy  and  assistants  in  full  dress,  with  torches, 
assisted  by  the  military  with  arms  reversed,  proceeds  from  the 
church  of  San  Juan  de  Dios  to  the  cathedral,  where  the  dead 
body  of  Christ  is  deposited  in  a  sepulchre,  in  which  it  remains 
until  the  morning  of  the  third  day,  when,  after  the  performance 


218  MEETING   THE   VIRGIN. 

of  mass  to  the  multitude  at  ten  o'clock,  silence  is  once  more 
broken  bj  the  pealing  of  the  bells,  the  roar  of  cannon  from  the 
forts,  and  the  discharges  of  the  infantry  who  occupy  the  Plaza 
or  square,  in  front  of  the  cathedral,  all  of  which  announces  the 
resurrection.  The  negro  drivers,  who  have  bedecked  their  mules 
with  ribbons,  drive  wildly  through  the  streets ;  the  military 
shoulder  arms,  and  the  flags  of  the  vessels  are  again  hoisted  to 
the  tops  of  the  masts. 

The  following  morning  the  ceremony  of  Christ  going  forth  to 
meet  the  Yirgin  took  place.  The  almost  naked  figure  of  our  Sav- 
iour, as  large  as  life,  upon  a  platform  supported  by  twelve  men, 
almost  concealed  from  view  by' curtains  suspended  to  the  ground, 
sallies  forth  from  the  cathedral  followed  by  the  priests  in  robes, 
bearing  the  host  under  a  canopy  with  burning  incense,  while 
the  military  and  populace  are  prostrated  upon  their  knees;  after 
having  made  the  tour  of  the  Plaza,  amid  the  showers  of  bouquets 
from  the  ladies  in  the  balconies,  the  procession  marches  in  the 
direction  of  one  of  the  churches,  which  contains  full-sized  figures 
of  the  Virgin  Mary  and  Mary  Magdalene,  in  rich  robes  of  gold 
and  silver  tinsel,  who  are  brought  out  on  platforms  upon  which 
they  are  attached,  and  supported  uj^on  the  shoulders  of  four  men 
each  ;  the  latter,  espying  Christ  coming  in  the  distance  from  an 
opposite  direction,  run  hurriedly  towards  him,  turn  as  suddenly 
and  go  in  pursuit  of  his  mother  to  communicate  the  glad  tidings, 
while  she  in  turn  rushes  rapidly  forward  to  embrace  him,  when, 
after  a  salutation,  they  proceed  together,  and  are  placed  within 
the  altar,  and  mass  is  said,  and  the  scene  is  finished. 

I  observed  but  a  small  attendance  of  whites  of  the  upper 
classes,  at  this  last  described  ceremony,  but  hosts  of  negroes 
whose  curiosity  it  gratifies.  The  sensible  part  of  the  community 
wish  it  dispensed  with,  as,  instead  of  being  imposing  and  solemn, 
portions  of  it  excite  the  laughter  of  the  crowd. 

A  grand  masquerade  ball  is  announed  for  Sunday  night,  at 
the  theatre,  which  will  be  attended  by  probably  five  or  six 
thousand  persons ;  this  will  close  the  ceremonies  and  perform- 
ances of  the  Holy  Week  in  Havana. 

The  cathedral  is  an  antique,  and  plain,  but  noble  building, 
with  some  good  monuments.  The  most  interesting,  historically, 
is  that  which  covers  the  remains  of  Christopher  Columbus,  whose 
ashes  were  transported  from  the  cathedral  of  San  Domingo  by 


EPITAPH   OF   COLUMBUS.  219 

the  Spaniards,  when  that  island  was  ceded  to  the  French  in 
1795.  The  reception  of  the  body  at  Havana  is  said  to  have 
been  august  and  stately.  After  it  was  landed  with  the  greatest 
pomp,  it  was  conveyed  to  the  cathedral,  when,  after  mass  and 
solemn  ceremonies,  the  mortal  remains  of  the  great  navigator 
were  placed  in  the  wall  behind  a  bust,  in  basso  relievo,  in  marble, 
with  the  following  inscription  : 

"  0,  remains  and  image  of  the  great  Columbus, 
For  a  tlaousand  ages  continue  preserved  in  thia  urn, 
And  in  the  remembrance  of  the  nation." 


220  EN  ROUTE  IN  THE  SOUTH. 


18  5  0. 
LIY. 

TRIP    TO    CALIFORNIA,    DEC.   20,    1850. 

I  LEFT  New  York  by  mail  train  for  Philadelphia,  spent  a  day 
there,  and  then  went  on  to  Baltimore  and  Washington ;  Congress 
in  session ;  called  upon  some  of  the  members  :  took  the  train  for 
Aquia  Creek,  thence  by  rail  to  Fredericksburg  and  Eichmond ; 
visited  a  few  friends,  and  started  for  Wilmington,  North  Caro- 
lina, all  by  rail,  without  any  of  the  inconveniences  of  corduroy 
roads  as  in  former  days.  The  steamer  took  us  to  Charleston ; 
rough  night ;  second  cabin  filled  with  negroes  going  south,  fresh 
from  Virginia  plantations  ;  they  experienced  the  horrors  of  sea- 
sickness. Left  Charleston  the  first  of  January,  by  steamer  Jas- 
per, outside  passage  for  Savannah,  and  Georgia  Central  Eail- 
road  to  Macon ;  passed  Sunday,  attended  divine  service  there, 
and  continued  by  rail  to  Montgomery,  in  comfortable  cars, 
where  more  than  once  before  I  had  made  the  same  journey 
in  open  wagons,  drawn  through  the  mire  by  six  horses ;  where 
the  stage  could  not  stand  erect ;  broke  the  pole  at  midnight ; 
up  to  knees  in  mud,  carrying  rails  on  the  shoulder  to  pry 
out  the  wheels,  and  borrowing  planters'  wagons ;  carrying- 
lighted  pine  knots  in  hand,  in  the  obscurity  of  the  night ;  lying 
before  a  camp  fire,  upon  a  buffalo  skin  ;  and  riding  upon  an 
iron-bound  trunk,  over  the  hind  axle,  for  one  hundred  miles. 
Such,  in  winter,  were  Georgia  pine-woods  roads  for  travelling, 
before  the  railway  was  completed.  Took  steamer  Daniel  Pratt 
at  Montgomery,  capital  of  Alabama,  for  Mobile,  receiving  cotton 
at  all  the  landings.  Weather  foggy  and  rainy — made  it  slip- 
pery work.  An  animated  sight  in  a  dark  night  (the  steamer 
tied  up  to  some  tall  tree  on  the  river  bank)  is  the  sliding  down 
of  cotton  bales  from  a  high  bluffs,  while  camp  fires  are  lighted 
on  the  banks,  and  the  five  or  six  furnace  doors  on  the  main 


THE  BURNING  OF  THE  ST.  CHARLES  HOTEL.      221 

deck  are  thrown  open,  and  tlie  red  glare  of  light  throws  its  lurid 
beams  upon  the  gangs  of  negroes,  singing  sailor  songs. 

An  amusing  incident  once  occurred,  coming  down  the  river. 
The  excessive  rains  had  made  the  roads  almost  impassable. 
The  boats  were  anxious  to  fill  up  with  cotton  freight,  until  the 
guards  were  under  water,  and  the  bales  were  piled  half  the 
height  of  the  smoke  stack  ;  and  wherever  the  eye  rested,  it  was' 
on  cotton.  This  valuable  freight  could  not  be  resisted ;  but  the 
bales  lay  some  distance  up  a  little  bayou.  So  all  hands  and  a 
number  of  passengers  started  for  the  point.  Each  man  mounted 
a  bale  and  came  floating  down.  I  selected  a  large  square  one, 
and  with  two  poles  came  paddling  along  safely  ;  while  some 
of  my  neighbors  made  poor  selections,  and  round  went  the  bales, 
and  they  got  a  good  ducking,  to  the  amusement  of  the  by- 
standers. 

Sunday,  attended  church  in  Mobile,  and  left  with  steamer  J. 
L.  Day  for  New  Orleans.  Among  our  passengers  were  Madame 
Le  Vert,  of  Mobile,  and  Miss  Fredrika  Bremer,  the  Swedish 
authoress,  who,  like  myself,  were  bound  for  Cuba.  We  were 
laden  with  cotton,  mules,  and  other  freight  for  New  Orleans. 
Our  steamer  grounded  at  midnight  on  Cat  Island,  and  was  so 
belated  we  could  not  arrive  in  time  for  the  departure  for  Havana, 
the  next  day.  I  took  the  ladies  under  my  charge,  and  escorted 
them  to  the  St,  Charles  hotel,  where  my  friends  Mr.  Brown  (late 
Consul  General  of  Turkey)  and  his  wife,  whom  I  had  known  in 
Constantinople,  were  stopping,  with  the  Turkish  Envoy,  Amin 
Bey  and  suite.  Our  hotel  took  fire  on  Saturday  morning,  the 
18th,  and  was  consumed  in  two  hours.  I  had  just  breakfasted 
with  the  party,  stepped  out  a  half  hour,  when  it  was  announced 
that  the  hotel  was  on  fire.  I  rushed  to  the  scene,  and  ascer- 
tained that  our  friends'  luggage  was  saved,  made  an  effort  to 
secure  my  own,  and  succeeded  in  saving  the  greatest  proportion 
of  it.  The  conflagration  extended  to  the  neighboring  church  and 
other  buildings,  and  was  terrific.  Madame  Le  Vert  requested 
me  to  telegraph  to  her  husband,  and  take  her  to  the  railway,  and 
she  would  return  home.  Miss  Bremer,  who  fortunately  was 
visiting  friends,  lost  nothing,  and  went  over  to  Havana  in  com- 
pany with  us.  Here  we  found  Jenny  Lind,  to  whom  Miss  Bremer 
presented  me.  She  had  not  seen  her  since  a  child,  in  Sweden. 
I  had  attended  her  concerts  in  New  York.     The  steamer  Ohio, 


222  AT   CHAGRES. 

Captain  Porter,  was  present,  bound  for  Chagres,  and  I  embarked 
in  her.  The  first  day,  at  dinner  at  the  captain's  table,  a  lady- 
seated  at  my  right  heard  my  name,  and  asked  if  I  was  the 
friend  of  a  cousin  of  hers,  who  had  stated  I  was  on  my  way 
south.  I  replied  that  I  was,  and  was  pleased  to  meet  with  her, 
and  should  be  happy  if  I  could  be  of  service.  "What  was  my 
surprise,  when,  on  going  in  the  ladies'  saloon,  I  found  her  with 
her  nurse  and  four  children,  the  youngest  sixteen  months 
old,  on  her  way  to  California ;  she  had  missed  her  friends, 
a  gentleman  and  lady,  whose  boat  was  detained  by  ice  in 
the  Mississippi,  and  could  not  connect  at  Havana.  She  had 
paid  a  through  passage  to  San  Francisco,  and  was  in  great 
distress  whether  to  return  or  proceed.  I  was  not  well 
myself.  I  had  heard  much  of  the  horrors  of  the  Isthmus ; 
my  sympathies  were  with  the  party,  my  reputation  as  an  Ameri- 
can was  at  stake,  for  courtesy  towards  ladies ;  the  regard  I  enter- 
tained for  her  friend,  induced  me  to  say,  "You  shall  proceed,  and 
I  will  assume  the  responsibility.''  With  travelling  experience, 
and  a  knowledge  of  Spanish,  and  such  assistance  as  gentleman 
passengers  could  render  throughout,  there  would  be  no  difficulty. 
On  our  arrival  in  the  roadstead  of  the  dirty,  filthy  place,  with 
low  huts  on  both  sides  of  the  Chagres  river,  the  sea  was  rolling 
in  heavily,  and  we  landed  with  difficulty.  The  children  were 
lowered  in  crockery  crates,  and,  the  infant  in  my  arms,  I  was 
suspended  in  a  chair.  I  procured  supplies  from  the  steamer  and 
purchased  some  ashore.  We  were  the  last  to  leave  the  ship.  I 
chartered  a  dug-out,  or  canoe  covered  with  palm -leaf  top  and  tar- 
paulin ;  made  my  contract  in  Spanish  with  some  Maracaibo 
natives  to  pole  us  up  the  stream  as  far  as  Gorgona,  the  price 
sixty  dollars,  half  down,  and  half  on  arrival.  I  would  not  suffer 
them  to  stop  at  Gatoon,  where  the  boatmen  have  their  fandan- 
gos, but,  as  we  were  the  last  to  leave,  I  insisted  on  beating  the 
party  and  arriving  ahead.  We  kept  straight  on  and  reached 
los  dos  Hermanos,  and  arrived  that  night  at  eleven  p.m.  ; 
I  went  ashore  and  purchased  sugar,  and  strolled  through  the 
small  street  of  the  village  where  they  were  slung  up  in  ham- 
mocks, half  naked.  We  waited  at  San  Pablo  until  early  break  of 
day;  I  kept  watch  in  a  sitting  posture  in  the  stern  of  the  boat, 
as  I  did  not  like  the  looks  of  the  natives.  We  started  in 
advance  of  the  others ;  a  beautiful  morning  after  a  rainy  night 


CROSSING   THE   ISTHMUS.  223 

in  this  hot  climate ;  the  scenery  lovely ;  tropical  vegetation, 
foliage  of  the  trees,  beautiful  flowers,  parrots  and  other  birds  of 
plumage  of  charming  character.  Difficult  poling  up  the  rapids  ; 
our  men  were  liberally  supplied  and  stimulated  to  action,  and 
I  was  determined  to  beat  the  party,  in  consequence  of  their  want 
of  politeness  in  not  assisting  an  unprotected  family.  I  arrived 
at  Gorgona  in  advance,  made  arrangements  for  four  mules  at 
fourteen  dollars  each,  and  three  children  to  be  carried  on  the 
shoulders  of  natives  to  Panama  at  ten  dollars  each ;  the  luggage 
at  nine  cents  per  pound.  We  were  all  mounted  and  in  the  act 
of  departure  when  the  other  boats  came  in  sight,  and  up  went 
the  price  of  mules  to  sixteen  dollars. 

The  paths  were  of  the  worst  possible  description — deep 
ravines  worn  down  by  the  tread  of  animals,  and  at  certain  sea- 
sons impassable.  The  mule  of  the  lady  fell,  and  as  I  sprang  to 
assist  her  the  branch  of  a  tree  caught  me  by  the  neck  and  made 
an  abrasion ;  while  in  the  act  of  getting  her  up  down  came  the 
Irish  nurse  spraining  her  wrist;  she  was  unwilling  to  re-mount, 
and  declared  she  was  kilt  intirely  ;  by  great  persuasion  I  got  her 
on  again.  Then  the  children  separated  in  the  woods  from  the 
mother,  upon  the  backs  of  these  half  naked  dark-skins,  and  sadly 
distressed  her.  Passing  over  rugged  roads,  crossing  ravines, 
deep  gorges,  the  remains  of  dead  animals  and  bones  of  mules 
lying  by  the  way,  we  came  to  the  tents  or  shanties  of  supplies ; 
the  occupants  looked  sepulchral  from  fever.  Piles  of  empty 
bottles,  were  round,  and  disappointed  Californians  were  return- 
ing. The  natives  did  not  want  to  go  on,  but  I  pushed  them  up 
to  the  work,  anxious  for  my  charge,  and  a  little  after  sunset 
entered  the  gates  of  the  old,  desolate-looking  city  of  Panama, 
and  stopped  at  a  filthy  hotel.  I  was  never  more  rejoiced;  I 
had  left  the  last  fi'om  Chagres,  and  arrived  the  first  at  Panama 
with  all  the  incumbrance,  and  the  gentlemen  voted  me  a  leather 
medal.  The  ship  Columbus,  Capt.  McGowan,  was  in  port.  I 
put  the  family  under  his  protection,  feeling  satisfied  then  I  had 
done  my  duty.  The  town  was  infested  with  gamblers  who 
quarrelled.  I  heard  pistol  shots  in  the  room  adjoining  mine  at 
four  A.M.  and  presently  a  negro  policeman  in  pursuit  of  some  one, 
pistol  in  hand,  marched  through  my  room,  from  a  balcony  and 
down  the  stairs. 

The  transit  of  passengers  to  and  from  California  had  already 


224  ACAPULCO. 

changed  the  appearance  of  the  decayed  city.  The  American  signs 
were  a  distinguishable  feature,  and  the  movements  of  animals 
with  freight  and  passengers,  on  the  arrival  of  steamers,  gave  some 
tokens  of  life.  I  waited  for  the  steamer  Panama,  Capt.  Watkins, 
which  was  to  stop  at  many  points  on  the  coast,  en  route  for 
San  Francisco,  coasting  along  Costa  Rica,  San  Salvador,  and 
Nicaragua,  thereby  breaking  the  monotony  of  the  voj'age.  We 
had  a  passage  of  seven  days  to  Acapulco,  where  we  obtained 
coals,  fruits,  and  such  supplies  as  were  necessary.  The  heat  in 
the  Isthmus  was  oppressive.  Fever  cases  not  numerous,  though 
we  had  several  on  board.  It  was  a  relief  to  get  ashore  for  a 
day  at  this  Mexican  town,  and  ramble  over  the  hills  looking 
down  upon  its  beautiful  bowl-formed  harbor,  surrounded  by 
high  volcanic  country  ;  I  strolled  through  the  poor  bazaars,  and 
under  the  big  tree  where  the  natives  were  selling  their  fruits  and 
wares ;  it  looked  neat,  clean,  and  refreshing  in  comparison  with 
Panama.  •  A  short  walk  here  in  an  orange  grove,  with  the  sight 
of  a  few  cocoa-nut  trees,  is  a  happy  change  from  a  crowded  ship. 
The  next  point  was  San  Bias  en  route  to  Tepic ;  much 
annoyed  with  sand-flies.  Stopped  next  at  Mazatlan,  a  rather 
pleasant  town,  pretty  well  built ;  called  upon  some  Spanish 
Senoritas,  who  occupied  a  pretty  house  and  garden,  and 
regaled  us  with  fruits,  accompanied  with  good  music  upon  the 
piano.  Dined  tolerablj^  well  at  a  French  restaurant,  at  Cali- 
fornia prices.  Our  next  landing-place  was  San  Diego.  After 
passing  Cape  St,  Lucas  and  the  Gulf  of  California,  the  Pacific 
Ocean  is  no  more  entitled  to  its  name.  Cold  winds  and  heavy 
sea,  and  we  suffered  from  the  effects  ;  all  the  way  up  to  Mazatlan 
you  could  see  the  upper  deck  covered  with  hammocks  and 
mattresses ;  I  counted  fifty  persons  stretched  upon  deck,  but 
afterwards  went  below ;  there  was  scarcely  room  for  the  three 
hundred  and  fifty  passengers.  The  Panama  fever  disappeared. 
We  were  getting  short  of  coals  on  the  passage,  and  took  in 
thirty  tons  at  the  price  of  fifty  dollars  per  ton,  fifteen  hundred 
dollars.  Were  obliged  to  pay  three  hundred  dollars  for 
three  thousand  pounds  of  potatoes,  at  ten  cents  per  pound. 
I  strolled  up  the  mountain  which  separates  the  bay  from  the 
ocean,  and  procured  wild  flowers  for  the  ladies  on  shipboard. 
The  hills,  covered  with  low  undergrowths  of  bushes,  reminded 
me  of  the  heather  of  Scotland,  with  an  abundance  of  quail. 


EGGS   IS   EGGS.  225 

The  mountain  torrents  have  produced  extraordinary  formations. 
We  next  entered  the  harbor  of  Monterey,  Cahfornia,  as  the  sun 
rose,  and  for  the  first  time  descried  the  mountains  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada  covered  with  snow.  The  contrast  between  the  deep 
blue  water,  and  the  green  woodhxnds,  and  verdant  lawns  in  the 
distance,  struck  us  with  delight  in  the  first  rays  of  morning 
sun.  We  reached  the  harbor  of  San  Francisco  in  twenty  days 
from  Panama.  I  was  struck  with  the  forest  of  masts,  which 
exceeded  my  expectation.  Went  ashore  in  small  boats ;  all 
life,  bustle,  and  activity ;  city  growing  rapidly  beyond  all 
estimate  ;  stopped  at  the  Union  Hotel,  a  large  brick  substantial 
building,  the  best  hotel  in  the  city.  Charges,  boat  ashore,  each 
two  dollars ;  baggage  porter,  two  dollars ;  hotel  bill,  board, 
daily  seven  dollars;  wine,  five  dollars  per  bottle;  blacking  boots, 
twenty-five  cents ;  refreshments,  fifty  cents  per  glass ;  cigars^ 
twenty-five  cents ;  washing,  five  dollars  per  dozen.  You  will 
perceive  they  are  gold-dust  prices. 

At  the  first  breakfast  a  lady  passenger  sat  beside  me  whose 
husband  was  unwell.  I  saw  a  gentleman  eating  eggs,  and  ordered 
a  couple ;  the  lady  concluded  she  would  try  them  also.  Presently 
the  servant  came  with  a  card,  saying  that  eggs  were  extra ;  of 
course  politeness  induced  me  to  write  for  four ;  on  inquiring  after- 
wards I  was  told  tlie  price  was  fifty  cents  each ;  the  landlord  paid 
six  dollars  per  dozen  to  accommodate  travellers,  and  if  any  of  the 
eggs  were  bad  it  was  a  dead-loss.  A  soiree  was  given  by  the 
boarders,  and  well  attended  by  gentlemen ;  the  few  ladies  in  the 
city  were  present;  a  band  of  music  was  engaged;  a  magnificent 
supper  provided,  with  fruits,  ices,  and  champagne  in  profusion. 
While  the  party  was  engaged  in  the  waltzes  I  stepped  aside  for 
reflection,  and  asked  myself,  "Is  it  actual  or  magical,  when  I 
am  told  where  this  house  now  stands  two  years  since  were  only 
seen  tents  ;  and  that  now  a  large  city  is  rising  up  where  recently 
were  fisher-huts,  and  all  through  the  magical  power  of  gold !" 

It  now  appears  that  my  suspicions  of  the  natives  on  the 
Chagres  river  are  verified,  for  I  have  learned  that  a  boat's  com- 
pany of  six  men,  two  women,  and  two  children,  who  were  on 
their  way  up  with  us,  and  whom  we  passed  in  the  night,  were 
murdered  while  asleep,  and  their  bodies  secreted  in  the  bushes. 


15 


226  SACRAMENTO. 


LY. 


TRIPS  TO   BENECIA,   SACRAMENTO,    STOCKTON,    CALEVARAS 
DIGGINGS,    &C. 

I  TOOK  the  steamer  Wilson  G.  Hunt  for  two  days  and  went  up 
to  Benecia,  the  pacific  mail  station,  where  I  met  my  old  friend 
Catherwood,  and  talked  of  Palestine  matters.  Rode  out  to 
Vallejo,  the  newly  designed  capital  of  California.  The  officers 
of  the  U.  S.  Barracks  politely  offered  horses  for  the  excursion  ; 
vast  quantities  of  game,  and  immense  number  of  cattle  grazing 
in  the  neighborhood,  but  not  a  house  yet  erected,  and  doubtful  if 
there  will  be.  Crossed  over  to  Martinez,  and  was  amused  at  the 
horsemanship  of  the  native  Californian  or  Mexican  race,  who  run 
their  horses  at  full  speed  and  bring  them  down  suddenly  on  their 
haunches.  Continued  with  next  steamer  to  Sacramento  up 
the  river ;  streets  muddy,  from  excessive  rain  ;  could  not  get  in 
the  country.  The  gambling-houses  with  bands  of  music  in  full 
blast ;  the  miners  crowding  around  with  bags  of  gold,  staking 
their  all ;  the  city  building  up  rapidly ;  every  variety  of  cha- 
racter to  be  found  in  this  new  country,  good,  bad,  and  indifferent. 
So  much  has  been  said  by  others  it  would  be  useless  to  enlarge. 
Expenses  enormous ;  everybody  employed  at  something.  One 
young  gentleman  of  New  York  was  driving  team  at  ten  dollars  per 
day ;  another,  turned  carpenter,  was  shingling  a  roof  at  the  same 
wages ;  never  drove  a  nail  in  his  life  until  he  came  here,  but 
necessity  knows  no  law.  A  single  crab  costs  fifty  cents,  equal 
to  the  price  of  an  egg.  With  the  tide  of  emigration  these  things 
will  regulate  themselves,  and  with  more  resources  California 
will  become  one  of  the  most,  productive  States  in  the  Union. 
Returned  to  San  Francisco;  took  the  steamer  up  San  Pablo  Bay, 
and  the  cut-off  to  Stockton,  in  company  with  a  friend,  the 
proprietor  of  a  quartz-mine,  in  order  to  visit  the  gold  district. 
Having  procured  a  strong  wagon  and  a  pair  of  horses,  india- 
rubber  covers  and  blankets,  a  supply  of  barley  for  feed,  off  we 
started.  The  rain  came  down  in  torrents ;  stopped  at  a  ranche 
and  dried  ourselves,  drove  to  another,  and  passed  the  night  in  a 
double  bed  and  mattress  on  the  floor;  sack  wet  through,  clothing 


NIGHT  IN  A   LOG  CABIN.  227 

out  to  dry  by  a  fire.  Price,  for  horses  and  wagon  twenty  dollars 
per  day ;  feed,  each  time  twelve  pounds  of  barley  at  two  shillings, 
three  dollars ;  meals  a  dollar  and  a  half  each.  Next  day  rode 
to  Cherokee  Eanche ;  met  a  party  of  Americans,  with  arms 
in  hand,  in  pursuit  of  Mexicans,  near  the  Hawk's  Eye  Ranche, 
and  dared  not  stop,  as  they  threatened  the  extermination  of 
the  Greasers,  as  they  called  the  Mexicans.  Passed  a  disagreeable 
night  in  a  log-cabin.  A  vagabond  of  a  fellow  has  just  killed  a 
Mexican  in  the  woods  near  the  cabin ;  the  half  drunken  scoundrel 
could  not  be  turned  out,  and  sat  before  a  huge  fire  ;  the  chimney 
of  logs  was  carried  up  outside  the  rude  hut.  We  lay  in  bunks 
upon  our  blankets  and  straw.  I  slept  with  one  eye  open,  and 
my  six-shooter  in  hand ;  finally  at  a  late  hour,  in  came  a  German 
in  a  red  shirt  and  slouched  hat,  whom  I  soon  recognised  as  being 
from  Puerto  Cabello.  He  told  me,  that  in  the  war  between 
Gen.  Paez  and  Monagas  he  was  obliged  to  fly.  He  was  well 
connected,  I  had  known  his  family,  and  it  was  a  relief  to  meet 
him.  Next  day  arrived  at  Carson's  Creek,  having  passed  Cala- 
veras Creek  diggings.  Angel's  Creek,  and  looked  at  the  rocking- 
cradles  and  long  toms  of  the  miners,  and  passed  througli  the 
villages  of  tents  of  the  Mexicans  who  had  deserted;  met 
them  on  the  road  flying  with  their  women,  children,  and 
donkeys. 

The  lassoing  of  a  bull  attracted  my  attention  ;  the  position  of 
the  horse,  the  shot,  and  falling  of  the  animal,  reminded  me  of 
the  bull  fights  in  Havana  and  Spain. 

We  finally  arrived  upon  the  summit  of  a  high  hill  in  a  moun- 
tainous country ;  the  valley  filled  with  tents,  and  the  earth  thrown 
up  by  the  diggers  as  by  an  earthquake.  We  lodged  in  an 
open  cabin,  built  of  staves  rived  out  of  the  tree,  without  floor; 
a  rude  pine  table ;  fried  beef  and  potatoes,  with  coffee,  and 
hot,  hard,  wheaten  cakes  was  our  food.  The  quartz  rock  pro- 
duced abundantly.  The  opening,  ten  feet  by  seven,  and  ten  feet 
in  depth,  had  already  produced  the  value  of  fifty  thousand  dol- 
lars. There  were  three  casks  in  the  cabin,  headed  up,  full  of 
quartz  strongly  charged  with  gold,  besides  sacks,  and  bags. 
This  important  discovery  was  not  yet  known,  otherwise  it  would 
have  been  dangerous ;  we  were  six  persons  sleeping  upon  straw, 
with  a  blazing  fire,  which  gave  light  sufficient  for  an  enemy  to 
point  through  the  opening  anj^  where,  and  kill  the  party.    I  fell 


228  THE   SAGACIOUS   WOODPECKEE. 

anxious,  and  was  glad  to  get  away  witliin  three  days.  The  ope. 
ration  of  breaking  the  quartz  was  performed  with  rollers  of  stone 
drawn  by  mules ;  the  more  valuable  pieces  were  broken  with  a 
pestle ;  some  lumps  weighed  eight  pounds.  There  were  seven 
partners  in  this  valuable  claim.  We  came  down  with  a  quan- 
tity of  the  specimens,  accompanied  by  Jack  Hayes,  the  famous 
Texian  ranger,  who  exhibited  his  skill  with  pistols  in  shooting 
the  gopher,  a  little  animal  not  unlike  a  ground  mole.  Ground 
squirrels  abound  in  California,  and  are  destructive  to  the  crops. 
The  scenery  was  at  times  magnificent;  the  thick  heather,  or  under- 
growth of  the  grizzly  bear,  in  some  parts  is  prominent.  At  one 
ranche  the  owner  showed  us  some  young  cubs.  There  was  some 
beautiful  prairie  country,  cajjable  of  fine  cultivation,  and  excel- 
lent grazing,  which  produces  fine  horses  and  horned  cattle. 

The  wood-pecker  provides  for  himself  singularly  in  this  coun- 
try. I  was  struck  with  the  mosaic  appearance  of  some  trees,  and 
on  examination  found  that  this  bird  had  bored  holes  in  the  thick 
bark,  and  set  in  the  acorns  for  his  winter's  supply.  At  one  ranche 
the  hogs,  sheep,  and  cattle  looked  remarkably  well.  At  another 
stopping  point,  the  owner  has  a  pet  ram,  who  knew  a  Mexican 
at  sight,  and  bucked  him  with  his  head ;  he  had  a  perverted 
taste  for  an  animal,  and  was  very  fond  of  tobacco.  His  owner 
had  an  inveterate  hate  for  an  Indian,  who  had  killed  a  brother 
of  his.  The  Indians  are  fast  disappearing.  I  was  glad  to  get 
back  to  San  Francisco,  to  prepare  for  my  Oregon  trip. 


UPPER  WILLAMETTE   VALLEY.  229 


1851. 
LVI. 

Oregon  Territory,  May  5,  185L 
By  the  powerful  agency  of  ocean  and  river  steamers,  without 
disparagement  to  horse  and  mule  force,  I  find  myself  transported 
from  the  southern  mines  of  California,  a  distance  of  some  nine 
hundred  miles,  and  can  scarcely  realize  that  I  am  now  writing 
in  a  log  cabin  of  the  Upper  A¥illamette  Valley,  in  which  the 
first  legislative  committee  of  nine  persons  were  sworn  in  office 
by  the  missionary  (Rev.  Jason  Lee)  after  their  election  by  a 
mass  meeting  of  the  early  emigrants,  in  1846,  to  decide  if  laws 
should  be  enacted  for  the  territory.  The  interpreter,  Dr.  Newell, 
who  is  present,  drove  the  first  pair  of  oxen  across  the  plains,  and 
BOW  occupies  his  claim  of  a  mile  square,  or  six  hundred  and 
forty  acres. 

After  returning  from  the  mines  via  Stockton,  to  San  Fran- 
cisco, I  embarked  with  the  ocean  steamer  Columbia  for  Astoria, 
and  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  with  an  old  friend,  in  the  person 
of  the  Hon.  Thomas  Nelson,  from  Peekskill,  recently  appointed 
Chief  Justice  of  Oregon,  in  company  with  the  Surveyor  General, 
J.  B.  Preston,  and  several  ladies ;  among  the  number  were  five 
who  came  out  from  the  States  as  school  teachers,  under  the 
auspices  of  the  Hon.  Mr.  Thurston,  Delegate  to  Congress,  who 
died  at  Acapulco,  after  having  crossed  the  isthmus,  and  whose 
death  creates  a  great  sensation  in  the  territory.  He  was  a 
candidate  for  Member  of  Congress  for  the  next  term,  against 
Gen.  Lane,  who  now  meets  no  opposition.  "We  had  an  agreeable 
passage  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  whose  far-famed  breakers 
troubled  us  but  little,  the  weather  being  favorable.  Cape  Disap- 
pointment at  the  north,  and  Point  Adams  at  the  south,  with  its 
eight-mile  entrance,  scarcely  showed  us  where  lie  hidden  the 
frightful  sand  banks  which  have  so  long  been  the  terror  of  the 
mariner. 


230  VANCOUVER. 

Another  hour  brought  us  to  Astoria,  which  lies  under  the 
mountain  range  with  a  dense  forest  in  the  rear,  and  is  a  miserable 
town,  without  comfort  or  convenience,  just  the  reverse  in  short 
of  what  you  would  expect  from  the  name  of  its  founder,  and 
the  writings  of  Washington  Irving.  We  found  here  a  steamer 
w^hich  carried  us  to  Vancouver,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and 
ten  miles  up  the  Columbia,  the  river  narrowing  from  Astoria, 
as  you  proceed  up  stream,  down  to  a  mile  in  width,  and  some- 
times less;  The  shores  are  mostly  high  lands,  and  are  covered 
with  impenetrable  forests  of  firs  of  the  most  gigantic  growth. 
Vancouver  is  the  military  post,  and  we  found  here  the  Mounted 
Bifle  Regiment ;  it  is  in  a  most  desirable  position,  situated  upon  a 
beautiful  rising  plain  in  an  old  settled  part  of  the  countr}^,  the 
establishments  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  being  located  here, 
and  well  worth  visiting.  They  are  in  an  immense  inclosure, 
picketed  with  piles  thirty  feet  in  height,  and  containing  several 
acres,  with  block-houses  and  towers  fortified,  and  inside  are 
immense  store-houses  for  goods,  and  the  dwellings  of  the  gover- 
nor and  employees.  Six  miles  below  this  point  is  the  mouth  of 
the  Willamette,  which  river  we  ascended  twelve  miles  to  Port- 
land, nearly  the  head  of  navigation  for  three-masted  vessels, 
where  we  take  whale  boats  or  batteaux  to  proceed  to  Oregon 
City,  which  lies  below  the  falls. 

We  chartered  a  boat  with  six  Indian  oarsmen,  and,  as  it  had 
a  windlass  in  the  bow,  and  an  immense  coil  of  rope  to  fasten  to 
the  trees  for  hauling  up  the  rapids,  we  proceeded  well  until 
night  overtook  us  within  two  miles  of  the  town,  where  the  rush 
of  water  was  too  much  for  us.  After  making  ineffectual  efforts 
until  nine  o'clock,  we  abandoned  all  hope  until  morning  unless  we 
should  find  shelter  in  a  log-cabin,  there  being  one,  we  were  told, 
on  that  side  of  the  Clackamas  river.  We  divided  our  party  of 
gentlemen,  leaving  enough  for  the  protection  of  eight  ladies, 
and  commenced  pioneering  through  the  dense  forest,  without 
the  aid  of  a  lantern,  until  we  discovered  the  timber  burning  in 
clearing  up  the  land,  and  found  the  log  cabin,  but  our  only 
success  was  the  borrowing  of  a  dug-out  to  cross  the  Clackamas 
and  to  try  to  get  to  town  to  procure  whale  boats.  Judge  Nelson, 
our  guide,  and  myself  squatted  in  the  bottom  of  this  egg-shell 
canoe,  and  were  paddled  across  this  turbulent  stream.  We  got 
to  town  about  midnight,  worn  down  with  fatigue,  our  boots  and 


OREGON  INDIANS.  231 

clothes  torn  from  contact  with  fallen  logs,  and  from  crossing 
ravines ;  but  we  were  too  late  to  obtain  assistance  until  morn- 
ing, so  the  party  were  obliged  to  camp  in  the  open  boat. 
Having  been  recommended  to  Gen.  Gaines,  a  noble-hearted 
Kentuckian,  who  has  seen  service  in  Mexico,  now  Governor  of 
the  Territory,  I  was  invited  to  join  him  and  meet  the  commis- 
sioners now  in  treaty  with  the  Indians.  Our  route  of  twenty- 
five  miles  through  dense  forests,  ravines,  and  canebrakes,  and  over 
prairies  and  streams,  was  intensely  exciting,  and  to  one  who  had 
not  had  some  experience  in  California  and  Texas,  it  would  have 
been  startling.  I  found  here  three  tribes  of  Indians  encamped 
upon  the  plain,  and  was  not  a  little  amused  by  their  ball  plays, 
their  war  and  other  dances  around  the  camp  fires  in  the  evening, 
and  their  gambling  games  which  are  sometimes  kept  up  noisily 
all  night. 

The  Yam  Hill  and  Lukamuke  bands  of  the  Callapooya  tribes 
are  rapidly  diminisliing  in  numbers  by  disease.  The  Molalla 
tribe  are  mostly  horsemen  and  warriors,  and  are  a  fine-looking 
race.  The  commissioners  have  just  succeeded  in  effecting 
treaties  with  two  of  the  bands,  which  I  was  called  upon  to  wit- 
ness ;  and  it  was  an  interesting  sight  to  see  Governor  Gaines, 
Judge  Spencer,  and  Colonel  Allen,  opposite  the  three  Indian 
chiefs  belonging  to  each  tribe,  with  the  interpreter  and  secretary, 
in  grave  council,  while  in  the  interior  of  the  log  cabin  and 
around  the  door  were  collected  many  of  the  tribe,  anxiously 
zealous  of  their  rights,  and  suspicious  lest  any  one  band  should 
get  more  than  the  other.  The  commissary  distributes  daily  the 
flesh  of  a  bullock,  with  rations  of  potatoes,  flour,  and  salt,  and 
the  camp  fires  are  constantly  smoking.  Their  horses  are  hobbled 
and  grazing  on  the  prairie  and  in  the  woods ;  occasionally  they 
mount  them,  and  dash  over  the  plain  with  the  speed  of  the 
wind.  The  distribution  of  blankets,  calicoes,  and  various  arti- 
cles, will  take  place  when  they  leave.  By  the  treaties  for  sale 
of  lands  and  removals,  they  are  provided  with  agricultural 
implements,  supplies  of  provisions  and  clothing,  horses,  and  in 
some  cases,  log  houses  instead  of  tents  which  they  now  occupy. 
This  is  to  continue  for  twenty  years,  which  is  liberal  on  the  part 
of  the  government. 

The  French  prairies,  a  few  miles  from  here,  are  mostly  set- 
tled by  French  Canadians,  who  were  the  early  settlers,  having 


232  THE   BURNT  DISTRICT  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

been  engaged  in  trapping.  I  found  one  wTio  was  with  the  first 
expedition  of  Astor,  some  forty  years  since,  and  who  has  now 
his  family  of  half-breeds,  and  his  mile  square  of  land. 

From  this  point  we  have  travelled  in  the  country  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  from  the  summits  of  the  highest 
hills  had  some  magnificent  views  of  the  mountains  of  St  Helena, 

F^'-ytP^       Hood?  ^Tid  Kasoi^r,   eternally  covered  with  snow,  and  of  the 
^  immense  forest  of  firs  and  pines,  intervening  with  prairie  land, 

the  whole  forming  a  panorama  of  surpassing  wildness  and  beauty. 


LVII. 

San  Francisco,  3fay  20,  1851. 

On  my  return  to  this  city  from  Oregon,  a  scene  of  desolation 
presented  itself.  The  boatman  who  brought  me  and  an  elderly 
gentleman  ashore,  who  had  lost  property  largely,  as  also  friends 
who  had  perished  in  the  flames,  was  ordered  to  land  us  on  the 
beach  near  a  hotel  which  had  escaped,  as  I  knew  not  whether 
the  house  where  I  left  my  effects  was  saved ;  but  fortune  had 
favored  me  once  again,  for  the  second  time  in  this  voyage — 
the  first  being  in  the  destruction  of  the  St.  Charles  hotel,  in  New 
Orleans.  As  we  guided  our  boat  between  the  blackened  piles 
and  charred  dock  timbers,  with  scarcely  a  landmark  for  a  cir- 
cuit of  acres,  which  had  so  recently  been  covered  with  stores 
filled  with  merchandise,  the  heart  sickened  at  the  sight,  and  the 
old  man,  with  his  grey  locks,  sobbed  aloud  and  wept,  and  leaned 
upon  me  for  support.  I  took  my  way  up  the  street,  and  dis- 
covered with  satisfaction  that  I  had  a  home,  although  thousands 
were  scattered,  many  without  a  shelter  or  a  change  of  clothing. 
I  found  the  outbuildings  and  fences  burned  off  the  lot,  but  a 
change  of  wind  and  great  efforts  had  saved  our  house.  You 
have  before  this  had  full  particulars  of  the  destruction  of  pro- 
perty in  this,  the  greatest  conflagration  that  the  city  has  ever 
experienced,  and  one  which  will  cause  distress  and  immense  loss 
to  many  in  the  Atlantic  States.  I  have  never  yet  found  a  people 
who  meet  disaster  with  so  much  fortitude,  and  who  possess  the 
same  recuperative  faculties. 

While  the  ruins  are  still  smoking,  some  of  the  most  business 
streets  are  being  rebuilt,  and  the  rapidity  with  which  the  work 


EEBUILDING   THE   CITY.  233 

progresses  Is  magical.  The  buildings  now  constructing  being  of 
wood  and  of  frail  material,  are  soon  erected ;  and  many  house- 
frames  were  in  the  market,  the  remains  of  former  speculations, 
which  enables  the  builders  to  advance  rapidly.  The  activity  of 
the  workman  is  exhausting ;  and  as  the  rainy  season  has  passed, 
many  places  are  occupied  with  goods  while  the  roofs  are  not 
fully  covered,  and  fortunately  the  store  ships  in  harbor  con- 
tained abundant  supplies  to  recommence  business. 

The  temporary  buildings  must  give  way  in  time  to  fire-proof 
structures,  otherwise  another  conflagration  must  be  the  result, 
as  the  winds  are  high  from  the  north-west  during  the  summer, 
and  calculated  to  sweep  the  flames  towards  the  business  streets, 
wharves,  and  shipping.  It  was  a  singular  fact  that  the  fire  should 
have  occurred  on  the  anniversary  of  the  disaster  of  last  year, 
and  many  persons  fear  the  torch  of  the  incendiary  on  the  14th 
of  next  month,  that  being  the  date  of  the  second  misfortune 
the  last  summer.  The  citizens  are  now  enrolling  themselves  as 
a  special  night  patrol. 

From  early  morn  until  night  is  now  heard  the  constant  sere- 
nade of  the  saw  and  hammer  of  the  carpenter,  and  the  trowel 
of  the  mason.  Many  who  have  lost  their  all,  retire  in  disgust ; 
others  start  for  the  mines ;  others,  even  after  the  third  or  fourth 
visitation,  if  they  have  anything  left,  try  it  again,  believing 
that  the  same  elements  of  prosperity  still  exist  in  the  country. 
It  is  a  harvest  for  laborers  and  mechanics,  and  attracts  many 
from  other  points  about  the  country.  The  former  obtain  six 
dollars  per  day,  while  carpenters  and  painters  have  ten  dollars 
per  day. 

I  attended  yesterday  the  funeral  of  a  worthy  young  man  who 
lost  his  life  from  over-exertion  at  the  fire,  and  to-day  looked  at 
the  ruins  of  an  iron  building,  with  the  only  survivor  out  of  six 
who  were  within  during  the  fire,  and  who  made  his  escape  by 
the  scuttle  and  passed  over  the  burning  roofs  of  the  adjoining 
buildings,  while  his  brother  and  the  remainder  of  the  party  were 
roasted  alive.  The  streets,  being  planked,  added  fuel  to  the 
flames,  and  made  it  difficult  for  persons  to  escape.  We  have 
had  a  shock  of  an  earthquake  as  a  closing  scene  ;  it  was  felt  so 
sensibly  as  to  rattle  the  crockery  of  the  ladies  in  the  houses,  but 
more  positively  down  the  coast,  sufficiently  there  to  remind  one  in 
a  slight  degree  of  Naples  and  Messina. 


234  OFF   FOR  THE   SANDWICH   ISLANDS. 

The  smoke  rising  from  the  charred  timbers,  with  the  dust  and 
ashes  carried  bj  the  high  cool  winds  which  prevail  every 
evening,  makes  the  climate  at  present  very  disagreeable,  parti- 
cularly to  those  affected  with  any  bronchial  difficulty.  I  shall 
avail  myself  of  the  advantage  of  a  trip  down  the  valley  of  San 
Jos^,  called  the  Garden  of  California,  where  I  will  have  an 
opportunity  of  visiting  another  great  source  of  wealth  to  the 
country,  the  Quicksilver  Mines. 


LYIII. 

Lahaina,  Saxdwich  Islands,  June  23,  1851. 

In  my  last  communication  from  California,  I  think  I  intimated, 
at  least  I  meant  to  intimate,  my  departure  for  China,  via  the 
Hawaiian  group  of  islands.  I  have  never  known  the  same 
difficulties  experienced  by  shipmasters  in  procuring  crews ;  we 
were  considerably  delayed,  waiting  for  the  sailors,  notwith- 
standing the  enormous  wages  of  one  hundred  dollars  per  month, 
which  are  paid,  and  which  is  not  in  their  estimation  equal  to  the 
allurements  of  the  mines,  until  they  find  themselves  without 
means,  and  obliged  to  take  to  their  ordinary  avocation. 

Our  list  being  finally  filled  by  tlie  rapacious  landlords,  who 
devour  the  substance  of  the  poor  Jacks,  and  force  them  on  board 
after  getting  them  well  in  debt,  we  proceeded  to  sea  with  a 
mutinous  crew,  and  nothing  but  the  rigid  deportment  and 
treatment  of  the  officers  brought  them  to  their  duties. 

We  were  becalmed  the  first  four  days,  which  monotony  was 
partially  relieved  by  shooting  at  a  species  of  Albatross,  a  large 
aquatic  bird,  and  by  fishing  for  sharks,  of  which  we  had  large 
numbers,  and  sending  an  occasional  rifle-ball  into  the  backs  of 
the  large  whales  which  were  playing  and  spouting  about  us, 
producing  a  sound  not  unlike  the  escape-pipe  of  a  Mississippi 
high-pressure  steamer.  At  length  our  captain  grew  weary  of 
the  continued  calm  so  near  the  coast,  and  charging  my  only 
fellow  cabin-passenger  with  being  a  Jonah,  he  would  now  feed 
him  on  sea-fowls'  eggs,  of  which  we  had  a  supply  from  the  small 
islands,  and  shark-stew  and  steak,  which  was  the  last  recourse  to 
raise  a  breeze.  As  Prince  Murat,  who  died  in  Florida,  said  he 
found  all  animals  eatable  except  the  turkey  buzzard,  we  con- 


LAHAINA.  235 

eluded  to  take  the  dishes  dressed  from  a  youug  shark  which 
seemed  to  be  enjoyed  by  the  crew,  and,  if  prejudice  had  not 
interposed,  the  repast  would  not  have  been  unsavory.  Fortune 
favored  us  and  filled  our  sails,  and  in  a  few  days  we  found  our- 
selves in  a  latitude  of  the  trade-winds,  which  blew  steadily  with 
as^reeable  weather  until  we  made  the  island  of  Hawaii,  with  its 
volcanic  fires  illuminating  the  heavens  at  night ;  and  moderate 
breezes  prevailing  under  the  lee  of  the  island  of  Moui,  commonly 
known  as  Mowee,  gave  us  an  opportunity  of  coasting,  and 
examining  the  peculiar  formation  of  the  frightful  rocks  and 
chasms  of  extinct  craters,  as  well  as  the  verdant  valleys  produced 
from  the  decomposed  lava.  We  finally  made  the  harbor  of 
Lahaina,  most  resorted  to  by  whalers,  to  obtain  fresh  supplies 
of  meats,  fruits,  and  vegetables,  of  which  there  is  an  abundance, 
and  here  nature  presented  herself  in  her  most  luxuriant  garb  of 
tropical  vegetation,  with  cocoa-nut  trees  filled  with  fruit,  bananas, 
figs,  grapes,  melons,  &c.,  reminding  us  much  of  the  West  India 
Islands,  but  with  an  entirely  different  population.  One  would 
suppose  from  the  number  of  Kanakas  of  both  sexes,  and  of  all 
ages,  that  the  inhabitants  were  amphibious,  as  they  were  rolling 
and  dashing  in  the  surf  among  the  breakers. 

Some  of  the  most  extraordinary  anecdotes  are  related  of  them. 
They  have  been  known  to  swim  thirty  miles  when  wrecked 
midway  between  the  islands,  and  often  stories  of  credible  parties 
give  greater  distances.  The  missionaries  wrought  great  changes; 
a  fair  proportion  now  read  and  write,  and  have  a  capacity  for 
arithmetic ;  many  are  members  of  the  church,  and  their  condi- 
tion is  so  unlike  their  barbarous  cannibal  existence  when  they 
were  visited  by  Capt.  Cook,  who  was  murdered  on  Hawaii  island, 
known  as  Owyhee,  that  one  cannot  but  thank  the  cause  of  the 
missions.  Mr.  Balding,  one  of  the  pioneers  of  the  work,  with 
whom  I  dined,  and  who  had  resided  for  twenty-one  years 
among  those  then  barbarians,  gave  me  much  valuable  informa- 
tion. The  native  population  suffer  much  from  measles  and 
other  diseases,  contracted  in  their  intercourse  with  foreigners; 
and  their  numbers,  not  unlike  the  Indians  of  Oregon,  seem  to 
diminish  gradually  as  the  whites  supplant  them.  Their  taro  is 
the  chief  article  of  food,  being  a  root  easil}^  cultivated,  and  when 
pounded  and  baked,  or  boiled,  is  called  Poi,  and  it  is  amusing  to 
see  groups  squatted  around  the  large  gourd  shells  containing  it, 


236  HONOLULU. 

while  each  member  puts  his  finger  in  and  twists  it  round  until 
well  loaded,  which  he  conveys  to  his  mouth.  Its  consistency  is 
denominated  single,  double,  or  three-fingered  Poi. 

They  still  have  their  propensity  for  raw  fish  with  a  sauce  of 
salt  water  and  pepper,  which  they  relish  with  great  gusto. 
Instead  of  going  in  a  state  of  nudity  as  formerly,  the  largest  pro- 
portion now  wear  clothing,  and  those  who  have  the  means,  in 
the  towns,  wear  the  most  gay-colored  dresses  of  light  materials. 

Passages  are  not  unfrequently  made  in  about  nineteen  days 
from  San  Francisco,  a  distance  of  two  thousand  two  hundred 
miles,  with  the  stormy  north-west  winds,  to  the  tropics,  where 
begin  the  trades,  which  will  enable  those  from  California  who 
desire  a  warmer  climate  to  escape  a  more  rigorous  latitude.  Our 
passage  was  only  an  average  one  of  eighteen  days,  but  looking 
forward  to  my  embarcation  for  Hong  Kong  from  Honolulu, 
eighty  miles  further  on  the  island  of  Oahu^  I  could  wish  the  aid 
of  steam  for  traversing  the  ocean  waste  of  five  thousand 
miles,  and  also  to  escape  with  certainty  the  frightful  typhoons 
of  the  China  sea,  in  August  and  September.  But  I  expect  at 
the  latter  place,  the  arrival  of  a  clipper  ship,  which  was  to  suc- 
ceed us  at  San  Francisco,  and  will  give  me  an  opportunity  of 
seeing  King  Kamehameha's  dominions,  of  which  Honolulu  is  the 
great  port  of  entry  of  the  Pacific  Islands  for  the  whalers,  and 
also  the  residence  of  his  majesty.  Such  information  as  I  think 
may  interest  jou  I  will  communicate  from  there. 


LIX. 

Honolulu,  June  27,  1851. 
From:  Lahaina  I  came  to  this  place,  the  capital  of  the  Sand- 
wich group,  upon  the  Island  of  Oahu,  and  I  find  to  my  satis- 
faction the  arrival  of  the  clipper  ship  Samuel  Appleton,  of  eight 
hundred  tons  burden,  by  which  I  shall  embark  for  China.  I 
must  say  I  am  agreeably  disappointed  in  the  aspect  of  things 
here,  and  the  advancement  through  the  instrumentality  of  the 
Missions  and  American  residents.  During  the  season  for  the 
return  of  the  whalers  from  their  fishing  grounds,  large  numbers 
of  vessels  are  seen  in  port,  and  the  conveniences  now  offered  far 
surpass  those  of  any  of  the  other  small  islands.     It  is  the  resi- 


A  KANAKA  FUNEEAL.  237 

dence  of  King  Kamehameha,  and  all  the  principal  functionaries 
of  government.  The  town  is  regularly  laid  out  upon  the  margin 
of  a  deep  bay,  with  an  extended  valley  in  the  rear,  and  an  undu- 
lating country  between  the  high  mountain,  volcanic  ridges 
extending  towards  the  north  part  of  the  island,  through  which 
draw  refreshing  winds,  without  which  the  heat  would  be  insup- 
portable. 

The  houses  of  the  natives  are  formed  of  bamboo  cane  frames, 
and  thatched  with  wild  grass ;  the  sides  are  covered  with  like 
material,  which  resists  the  action  of  the  sun  and  rain.  The 
houses  of  foreigners  are  constructed  mostly  of  wood,  with  veran- 
das, and  are  well  adapted  to  the  climate.  Some  of  the  public 
buildings  are  of  stone. 

I  found  a  comfortable  hotel,  delivered  my  letters  and  papers, 
and  passed  the  first  evening  very  agreeably  at  a  social  tea  party, 
where  was  present  the  daughter  of  one  of  the  chiefs,  who  had 
been  educated,  and  spoke  English  well.  While  sitting  in  the 
veranda  we  heard  the  most  strange,  discordant  cries,  and  wail- 
ing sounds,  proceeding  from  one  of  the  palaces,  and  were  told 
there  was  a  new  arrival  of  relatives  from  some  one  of  the  islands 
to  attend  the  funeral  of  the  princess  Kepanonohe,  grand-daugh- 
ter of  Kamehameha  I.,  "which  will  take  place  in  a  few  days,  and 
for  which  extraordinary  preparations  are  making. 

She  was  an  elderly  woman,  and  is  now  deceased  three  weeks, 
and  lying  in  state.  I  proceeded  to  the  house  and  found  some 
fifteen  persons,  old  and  young,  sitting  and  prostrating  themselves 
on  the  floor,  and  uttering  deep  tones  of  distress  that  were  pitia- 
ble to  hear,  and  calculated  to  excite  one's  sympathy,  supposing 
them  to  be  sincere. 

I  have  heard  the  lamentations  of  the  Jews  under  the  walls 
of  the  ancient  Temple  at  Jerusalem,  and  the  hired  mourners  of 
Egypt,  whose  doleful  cries  rend  the  air,  and  who,  from  long 
practice,  seem  to  experience  all  the  anguish  of  the  afflicted  rela- 
tive, and  I  was  at  a  loss  to  subscribe  to  the  divine  command, 
"  Weep  with  those  who  weep,"  These  wailings  were  continued 
until  eleven  o'clock,  and  were  the  last  sounds  I  heard  as  I 
returned  to  my  hotel,  half  a  mile  distant.  Mr.  Wylie,  Minister 
of  Foreign  Afiiairs,  gave  us  a  letter  to  one  of  the  chiefs  called 
Paaki,  who  has  the  title  of  Chamberlain  to  the  king ;  you  will 
perceive  there  is  no  want  of  high-sounding  names.     We  found 


238  THE  king's  palace. 

that  he  occupied  a  fine  house,  which  was  built  by  an  architect 
named  Charles  Nelson,  from  our  town,  whom  I  knew  when  a 
boy,  and  who  has  resided  here  for  many  years.  The  chief 
received  us  kindly,  bade  us  enter,  and  showed  us  his  establish- 
ment. He  is  a  man  of  muscular  frame,  over  six  feet  in  height, 
well  proportioned,  and  weighs  three  hundred  pounds;  he  was 
dressed  in  modern  style,  with  white  duck  suit,  and  Panama  hat, 
a  noble-appearing  person,  who  looked  the  chief. 

He  spoke  but  little  English.  It  is  said  he  prefers  his  mat 
upon  the  floor  of  one  of  his  cabins,  and  his  dish  of  Poi,  to  the 
refined  modes  of  life.  He  accompanied  us  to  the  palace  of  the 
king,  which  is  a  fine  wooden  mansion,  recently  constructed,  and 
situated  in  the  centre  of  a  square  inclosure  surrounded  by  trees, 
and  got  up  with  considerable  taste  for  this  country.  Some 
native  troops  at  the  lodge  presented  arms  as  we  passed,  to  sustain 
the  dignity  of  the  place.  The  throne  room  contains  the  por- 
traits of  the  royal  family,  some  respectable  furniture,  and  the 
portraits  of  Louis  Philippe,  Frederick,  King  of  Prussia,  and 
some  views;  which  were  more  than  I  expected  to  find  in  a 
country  so  recently  reclaimed  from  barbarism. 

The  same  afternoon  we  procured  horses,  of  which  many  are 
to  be  found,  as  the  Kanakas  are  very  fond  of  the  quadruped, 
and  proceeded  to  the  north  side  of  the  island,  through  the 
valley,  whose  cultivation  is  mostly  of  taro,  the  island-bread. 
Some  three  miles  from  town  we  left  the  main  road  to  visit  the 
cascade,  a  small  mountain  torrent  rushing  down  the  rocks,  which 
is  a  fiivorite  place  for  sham  battles  and  diving ;  and  there  we 
found  several  of  the  amphibious  beings  contending  for  the  small 
pieces  of  coin  which  were  thrown  them  in  the  water.  Mounting 
our  horses,  we  pursued  our  way  through  the  valley,  passing  the 
low  mud  and  bamboo  huts,  and  dense  thickets  of  small  trees 
and  bushes,  with  jagged  and  crooked  branches,  almost  impene- 
trable outside  of  this  narrow  defile,  through  which  the  wind 
rushed  strongly,  while  the  dense  clouds  were  lowering  upon  the 
summits  of  the  volcanic  ridges  above,  threatening  to  drench  us, 
though  we  escaped  dry.  We  met  with  considerable  numbers  of 
cattle,  horses,  sheep,  and  goats,  which  shows  the  advancement 
of  the  island. 

Some  seven  miles  towards  the  north  the  ascent  is  gradual,  and 
brought  us  to  the  Pali,  a  precipice  which  certainly  presents  one 


ONE   OF   THE   PRINCES   (NOW   KING).  239 

of  the  most  beautiful  views  the  eye  can  behold,  of  the  plain 
below,  with  its  tropical  trees  and  forests,  with  the  ocean  in  the 
distance. 

The  descent  is  by  an  excavated  road  running  round  the  peak, 
whose  height  is  immense  ;  it  reminded  me,  in  some  particulars, 
of  the  excavation  in  the  mountains  of  Caracas,  under  the  gov- 
ernment of  Paez.  Tradition  says  that  the  opposite  and  most 
lengthy  peak,  w^hich  appears  to  be  only  a  foot-hold  for  a 
man,  was  occupied  by  one  of  the  former  chiefs,  or  kings,  when 
pursued  by  his  enemies,  whom  he  hurled  headlong  as  they 
approached.  The  following  day  I  paid  a  visit  to  one  of  the 
young  princes,  who  had  been  in  the  States,  as  also  in  Europe, 
the  past  year,  in  company  with  Dr.  Judd,  and  found  him  in  a 
bamboo,  grass-covered  house,  within  the  inclosure  of  the  palace 
grounds,  seated  upon  a  sofa  ;  the  ground  floor  was  covered  with 
matting,  upon  which  squatted  the  lightly  clad  Kanaka  women 
of  the  household.  He  conversed  well  in  English,  and  expressed 
himself  pleased  with  his  voyages.  The  women  are  expert 
riders,  and  on  Saturday  of  each  week  the  whole  town,  male  and 
female,  who  can  procure  horses,  make  it  a  gala-day.  The  for- 
mer, who  bestride  the  saddle,  wear  a  bright  yellow  scarf, 
extending  from  the  skirt  of  the  dress  behind  to  cover  the 
stirrups  in  front,  and  round  straw  hats  with  wreaths  of  flow- 
ers, presenting,  as  they  dash  furiously  along,  a  picturesque 
appearance, 

I  congratulate  myself  in  having  again  escaped  the  loss  of 
my  luggage,  as  my  fellow  passenger  from  San  Francisco  has 
lost  a  part  of  his  effects,  while  the  remainder  was  wet  through 
in  coming  ashore.  The  reef  extends  out  about  half  a  mile, 
and  the  heavy  breakers  capsized  the  boat's  crew,  who  narrowly 
escaped  a  worse  fate.  I  was  fortunately  ashore  with  the 
captain. 


LX. 

Honolulu,  June  26,  1851. 
The   Yankee  character  for   enterprise  is  admitted  to  be  a 
peculiar  one,  whether  productive  of  good  or  evil.     On  board  of 
our  vessel  from  Lahaina  we  received  two  Americans  who  had 


240  the;  missionary  question. 

established  a  circus  company  in  this  place  with  great  success, 
and  had  gone  to  the  neighboring  island  to  try  their  fortunes,  but 
were  not  permitted  to  play.  They  had  come  here  to  present 
their  petitions,  and  had  numerous  advocates,  although  it  was 
contended  by  their  opponents  that  the  Kanakas  were  so  fond  of 
this  amusement  that  tl^ey  would  exhaust  their  resources  to  gratify 
it.  It  is  contended  by  some  that  the  laws  and  regulations 
enforced  by  the  missionary  influence  are  too  rigid,  and  that 
while  the  latter  are  actuated  by  good  motives,  their  remedies 
have  proved  worse  than  the  disease ;  that  while  the  most  strin- 
gent laws  have  been  enacted  against  immoralities,  they  are 
entirely  ineffective  of  good,  as  it  is  asserted  that  the  most 
unblushing  looseness  of  manners  prevails  in  the  islands. 
Another  charge  is  against  the  teaching  in  the  language  of  the 
countr}^,  and  discouraging  the  use  of  other  languages ;  and  that 
civilization  cannot  advance  when  hampered  by  a  tongue  which, 
in  the  words  of  Onmittee  Wjddie,  abounds  in  names  for  every 
vice,  but  is  without  a  name  for  any  virtue,  a.nd  which  is  too 
loose  and  ambiguous  for  official  correspondence,  permanent 
records,  or  civil  contracts.  They  say  that  the  discouragement 
of  manly  exercises  among  the  natives,  such  as  throwing  the 
spear,  and  wrestling,  in  which  they  were  so  expert,  has  gained 
them  nothing  but  increase  of  idleness,  inactivity,  and  diminished 
cheerfulness,  which  are  incentives  to  criminality.  The  missiona- 
ries, on  the  other  hand,  refute  the  charges  alleged  against  them, 
saying,  that  they  are  not  answerable  for  the  acts  of  the  Hawaiian 
government ;  that  church  and  state  have  never  been  united  in 
the  islands;  that  the  penalties  imposed  upon  the  people  for 
their  abuses  in  manners  exert  a  powerful  restraint ;  and  that  the 
natives  are  the  only  true  judges,  as  they  understand  fully  the 
nature,  objects,  and  operation  of  the  laws.  They  state  that  they 
have  taught  English  as  far  as  possible,  but  cannot  teach  an 
entire  people  a  new  language ;  that  they  had  other  work  to  do, 
leaving  the  translation  of  the  Bible  until  such  times  as  the  people 
could  understand  it.  They  have  been  without  doubt  instrumen- 
tal of  vast  good,  having  civilized  and  partly  christianized  these 
barbarians.  They  have  had  many  difficulties  to  contend  with, 
and  those  who  are  now  enjoying  the  benefits  of  the  present 
state  of  society,  are  the  first  to  oppose  them.  They  have  with- 
out doubt  committed  some  errors  in  judgment,  which  is  usually 


THE   SANDWICH  GROUP.  241 

the  case  with  reformers  who  wish  to  make  all  classes  conform 
to  their  standard  of  right  and  wrong ;  but  I  have  generally 
found  them  useful,  and  obliging  to  the  traveller  and  stranger, 
and  desirous  of  imparting  information  ;  standing  as  pioneers  at 
the  outposts  of  civilization,  and  as  useful  in  extending  the  area 
of  knowledge  and  Christianity,  as  the  hardy  squatter  of  the 
frontier,  in  his  advancing  the  agricultural  pursuits  of  our  west- 
ern wilds. 

When  we  reflect  that  in  the  year  1820  the  first  mission  was 
established  among  a  nation  of  low  and  brutal  savages,  who  have 
been  reclaimed  from  barbarism  and  instructed  in  Christianity, 
it  must  be  admitted  that  much  has  been  done,  altliough  it  is 
contended  by  many  that  the  population  has  been  vastly  re- 
duced by  contamination  with  the  whites,  and  rendered  less 
happy. 

The  churches,  of  which  there  are  several,  are  attended  by 
natives  to  hear  the  word  in  the  native  tongue,  and  large  numbers 
are  communicants,  and  follow  up  the  externals,  and  man}^  are 
strictly  pious,  but  very  many  have  to  be  dealt  with,  not  being 
able  to  forget  their  former  practices,  which  causes  much  labor 
for  their  teachers.  They  have  here  a  House  of  Nobles,  so  called, 
whose  acts  are  published  with  as  much  consequence  as  if  they 
proceeded  from  the  Parliament  of  England.  I  have  been  much 
amused  in  the  island  of  Hayti  with  the  supreme  authority  and 
dignity  of  the  black  emperor,  Soulouque ;  and  cannot  help  but 
look  at  some  things  here  as  a  farce,  but  the  advantiiges  are  that 
there  is  American  talent  here  to  dictate  and  pull  the  wires.  I 
have  had  the  opportunity  of  visiting  and  coasting  through  six 
of  the  eight  inhabited  islands  of  the  Sandwich  group,  which 
extends  between  IS'^'  50'  and  22°  20'  K  Lat.,  and  154°  53'  and 
160°  15'  West  Long.,  and  which  composes  eight  thousand 
square  miles  with  a  native  population  of  some  eighty  thousand 
— supposed.  I  am  thus  particular  in  describing  their  locality, 
as  I  had  previously  known  so  little  of  these  remote  specks 
on  the  vast  Pacific,  which  were  so  far  removed  from  us 
by  reference  to  the  chart,  that  I  bad  never  intended  to  visit 
them.  As  you  may  be  interested  in  the  language,  I  give 
you  the  following  notice  with  the  translation  ;  it  may  be 
of  service  to  those  who  wish  to  commence  the  rudiments  at 
home. 

16 


242  A  SPECIMEN   OF   THE   KAXAKA  TONGUE. 

Fonu — {See  Selom.) 

Olelo  Hoolaha. — Ina.  e.  loaa  ana  kekahi.  kanaka,  mahope  o 
ka  booaba  ana  o  keia  palajDala,  e  lawe  ana,  i  ka  Paakia, 

Ohio  Hoolaha. — Ina  e  loaa  ana  kekabi  Kanaka,  mabope  o  ka 
booaba  ana  i  ka  Paakai  o  Puuloa,  a  me  ka  ja,  paba  o  na  loko,  a 
me  ka  ja  o  ku  Pa  KuH,  a  o  na  Kanaka  e  loaa  ana  e  laroe  ana  i 
ka  Paakia  i  buna  ia  ma  Puuloa,  ua  kuai  ia  ku  paba  a  kebabi 
Kanaka  malaili  me  ka  lobe,  ole  a  me  ka  ae  ole  o  ka  mea  nono 
ka  inoa  malole,  e  bopo  ia  no  lakou  a  boopii  ia  lakou,  a  e  booko- 
kole  ia  lakou  ma  ka  ano  aibu. 

Honolulu.  C.  W.  V. 

TRANSLATTOK 

Notice. — All  persons,  after  tbis  notice,  found  taking  salt  from 
Puloa,  or  fisb  from  tbe  pond  Paa  Kuli,  or  otbers,  or  any  person 
found  receiving  salt  made  at  Puloa  from  anyone,  except  witb  tbe 
permission  of  tbe  undersigned,  will  be  arrested,  and  an  action  of 
law  brougbt  against  tbem  for  stealing. 

Honolulu,  June  6,  1850.  C.  W.  V. 


LXI. 

Ladroxe  Islands,  July  21,  1851. 

The  cry  of  "Land  Ho"  to  tbe  traveller  on  a  sea  voyage  is 
always  refresbing,  but  particularly  so  after  baving  been  some 
weeks  out  of  sigbt  of  terra  firma.  Our  sbip  is  deserving  of  tbe 
name  of  clipper  wben  sbe  bas  good  breezes,  and  wben  full 
rigged  is  perfectly  wbite  witb  canvass,  carrying  from  tbirty-live 
to  forty  sails. 

We  have  been  running  witb  tbe  trades  almost  in  a  direct 
route  from  tbe  Sandwicb  Islands,  some  tbree  thousand  five 
hundred  miles,  and  have  never  furled  a  sail  since  our  departure 
until  yesterday,  wben  appearances  indicated  one  of  tbe  much 
dreaded  typhoons,  which  are  so  much  feared  at  tbis  season,  and 
which  appear  in  the  region  of  the  islands,  and  extend  through 
tbe  China  Sea.  The  strongest  and  swiftest  ships  are  unable  to 
resist  tbem ;  they  have  their  spars  carried  away,  and  even  their 


A   STORM   AT    SEA.  243 

masts  taken  out,  and  are  not  unfrequently  lost,  -as  was  the 
case  with  the  clipper-ship  Rainbow.  The  heavens  at  mid-day 
were  only  comparable  to  the  blackness  of  night,  and  the  whole 
horizon  seemed  to  be  circumscribed  ;  it  appeared  as  if  our  bow- 
sprit would  soon  enter  into  the  tar-colored  circle  ahead  of  us. 
The  orders  of  officers  were  given  and  responded  to  by  an  active 
crew  of  sixteen  sailors.  The  orders,  "  Brail  the  spanker," 
"  Haul  up  the  mainsail,"  "  Reef  the  foresail,"  and  so  on,  were 
rapidly  given  until  she  could  be  got  in  safe  trim.  It  proved  to 
be  more  a  deluge  of  rain  than  a  gale  of  wind,  with  terrific  peals 
of  thunder,  as  if  all  the  artillery  of  heaven  was  in  commotion  ; 
the  lightning  played  beautifully  and  awfully  about  us. 

It  was  one  of  those  magnificent  sights  which  must  be  witnessed 
to  be  appreciated.  If  we  had  not  shortened  sail  we  should  have 
run  out  of  it,  but  prudence  dictated  the  greatest  caution,  particu- 
larly in  this  latitude.  The  sailors,  as  the  rain  abated,  amused 
themselves  like  a  parcel  of  ducks,  playing  and  bathing  in  the 
water  upon  deck,  before  the  scuppers  could  carr}'  off  the  copious 
supply. 

Our  ship  is  spacious,  with  fine  promenade,  quarter  and  main 
decks  unencumbered.  Our  cabin  is  large  and  handsomely 
finished,  and  furnished  with  accommodations  for  thirty-two 
passengers,  but  there  being  only  two  of  us  we  are  not  elbowed, 
and  find  our  supplies  bountiful. 

My  companion  from  San  Francisco,  is  bound  to  Canton  only. 
I  had  once  made  a  passage  with  him  from  Charleston  to  New 
York,  and  we  subsequently  met  in  Havana,  and  now  chance 
throws  us  again  together  under  pleasant  circumstances.  We 
occupy  our  time  like  most  others  on  shipboard,  to  relieve  mono- 
tony, by  the  usual  labor  of  eating,  drinking,  and  considerable 
sleeping;  of  course,  also  in  writing  and  reading,  the  latter  being 
the  great  resource,  and  my  neighbor,  being  fond  of  music,  whiles 
away  many  a  weary  hour  upon  his  guitar  and  accordeon. 

Our  Anniversary  of  the  glorious  Fourth,  we  ushered  in  by 
discharging  our  six-shooters,  and  ringing  the  steward's  bell,  and 
afterwards  firing  at  a  mark,  to  commemorate  the  day.  Dined 
patriotically,  with  sentiments  to  friends  and  home,  heard  an 
occasional  salute  from  Jack,  of  the  forecastle,  carrying  the  mind 
back  to  the  scenes  of  former  days.  Thus  passed  the  day,  and  at 
ten  at  night,  while  pacing  the  quarter-deck  by  moonlight,  under 


244  THE   LAST   DAY. 

a  press  of  canvas,  with  a  nine-knot  breeze,  the  trade-wind  dead 
aft  and  saihng  on  even  keel,  the  ocean  cahu,  and  now  entitled  to 
its  Pacific  name,  I  could  not  help  reflecting  upon  the  events  of 
home,  and  found,  at  that  moment,  judging  from  our  position  of 
latitude  and  longitude,  you  were  then  returning  from  a  Church 
Oration,  or  listening  to  the  mid-day  salute.  Sunday  the  6th, 
was  observed  as  the  Sabbath  on  shipboard,  but  had  been  lost  in 
the  calculation  of  nautical  time,  as  we  had  passed  the  one 
hundred  and  eightieth  degree  of  west  longitude,  or  the  world's 
centre,  being  the  antipodes  of  Greenwich.  "We  then  counted  it 
as  ship's  time,  Monday  7th,  and  commenced  in  east  longitude. 
On  the  ninth  day  out  from  Honolulu,  we  lost  sight  of  the  bark 
Isabella  Hine,  with  which  vessel  I  went  to  the  islands  from  St. 
Francisco  ;  we  left  in  company,  and  kept  in  view  during  all  this 
time,  which  was  a  little  remarkable,  showing  the  equality  of 
sailing  of  these  two  clippers — the  average  runs  being  from  one 
hundred  and  sixty  to  two  hundred  miles  per  day,  with  moderate 
breezes.  The  weather  has  been  very  hot  during  the  entire 
passage,  the  thermometer  now  standing  eighty -six  degrees,  with 
an  occasional  refreshing  shower,  favorable  for  fresh  supplies,  as 
the  old  stock  of  water  is  repugnant  to  smell. 

As  we  have  had  no  weather  to  admit  of  fishing,  such  calms 
not  being  desirable,  our  curiosity  has  not  been  excited  with  the 
sights  of  whales,  sharks,  sea  lions,  or  porpoises,  of  which  we  had 
an  abundance  while  going  down  to  the  islands ;  we  conclude 
therefore  that  we  have  got  away  from  their  cruising  grounds. 
There  is  nothing  to  call  one's  attention,  except  the  water-spouts, 
which  we  are  disposed  to  give  a  wide  berth.  The  moonlight 
nights  are  delightful,  and  the  most  pleasant  part  of  the  twenty- 
four  hours ;  they  incline  one  to  pace  the  deck,  and  give  him 
plenty  of  time  to  reflect  upon  the  many  changes  and  scenes  in 
life. 

Having  no  opportunity  to  forward  this  letter,  I  shall  not  close 
it  till  our  arrival  at  Hong  Kong  or  Macao. 


MACAO  AND   WHAMPOA.  245 


Macao,  Aug.  4,  1851. 
Having  an  opportunity  of  sending  the  annexed  letter  imme- 
diately on  entering  port,  I  can  now  announce  our  arrival, 
although  in  the  latter  part  of  our  voyage  we  were  becalmed  and 
had  to  contend  with  the  head-winds,  after  the  regular  trades 
had  left  us,  on  passing  the  Bashee  Islands  in  the  China  sea, 
where  we  had  reason  to  expect  the  south-west  trades,  or  mon- 
soons, but  on  the  contrary  had  to  contend  with  heavy  tide  ripples 
or  counter  currents,  running  at  the  rate  of  two  and  a  half  miles 
per  hour.  I  assure  you  it  was  disheartening  to  make  only 
twenty  miles  per  day,  within  three  hundred  miles  of  our  haven, 
while  liable  to  meet  a  stray  pirate,  or  a  frightful  typhoon,  not  to 
mention  the  sun's  rays,  which  were  overpowering ;  but  our  for 
tunes  changed  after  a  few  days'  reverse,  a  strong  south-wester 
having  brought  us  in  sight  of  the  Celestials  with  their  long  tails, 
who  are  surrounding  us  in  their  sharp,  lightly  constructed  boats, 
with  sails  of  matting,  and  are  proffering  their  services  for  pilot- 
age, supplies  of  fish,  fruits,  &c.  I  have  not  time  to  add  further, 
but  shall  write  you  from  Canton,  seventy-five  miles  up  the  river. 


LXII. 

Canton,  China,  Aug.  20,  1851. 
We  arrived  at  Whampoa,  where  the  foreign  shipping  lies,  some 
fourteen  miles  below  this  city,  and  where  we  cast  anchor.  We 
were  immediately  surrounded  by  a  multitude  of  boatmen,  and 
amongst  the  rest  a  host  of  washerwomen,  neatly  dressed,  with 
flowing  pantaloons  and  a  loose  vest  which  falls  over  the  hips, 
and  is  made  of  blue  or  black  cotton  or  silk.  They  crowd  around 
with  commendations  in  their  hands,  and  solicit  the  preference  at 
the  extremely  low  rate  of  one  dollar  and  a  half  per  hundred. 
You  can  judge  of  my  surprise,  who  had  paid  five  dollars  for  the 
single  dozen  in  California,  which  of  itself  was  the  strongest  evi- 
dence of  the  great  disparity  of  population.  The  hair  of  the  mar- 
ried women  is  put  up  in  an  artistic  manner,  and  the  young  girls 
wear  the  long  queue  braided,  but  their  heads  are  not  shaved  like 


246  CANTON. 

those  of  the  men.  The  following  day  I  came  up  to  this  city 
through  a  perfect  fleet  of  junks,  and  other  boats,  with  their  teem- 
ing population,  the  study  of  whose  habits  and  modes  of  life 
would  occupy  much  time.  It  is  computed  that  there  are  eighty 
thousand  boats,  with  a  floating  population  of  four  hundred  thou- 
sand souls,  upon  the  waters  of  the  Canton  River. 

I  was  particularly  struck  with  the  appearance  of  the  large 
junks  with  their  painted  eyes  at  the  bow,  as  the  Chinese  say, 
^''Suppose  no  have  eyes^  no  can  see."  The  Mandarin  War  Boats 
carry  fifty  oarsmen,  and  their  broad-brimmed  conical  bamboo 
hats  answer  as  a  shield  from  the  sun  and  spears.  The  peculiar 
open  stern  which  incloses  the  rudder  and  place  for  ingress  and 
egress,  and  the  sudden  manner  in  which  they  turn  the  boats,  sur- 
prised me ;  the  neatness  displayed  on  board  the  small  ferry  and 
passenger  boats,  where  families  are  born,  live,  and  die  upon  their 
native  element,  is  without  example.  They  are  covered  by  per- 
manent and  also  sliding  roofs  of  bamboo  matting,  and  propelled 
mostly  by  women  with  a  scull-oar  on  a  pivot  at  the  sterm  Some 
are  nicely  fitted  up  and  gilded,  for  parties  of  pleasure,  and  are 
really  fine. 

The  foreign  population  of  Canton  is  made  up  of  about  fifty 
persons  of  different  nations,  mostly  occupying  a  fine  range  of 
buildings,  called  Factories,  fronting  a  beautiful  garden  of  about 
two  acres  square,  with  high  walls  at  the  ends,  and  extending  to 
the  river;  it  is  filled  with  every  variety  of  tropical  trees,  plants, 
and  flowers,  and  affords  a  delightful  lounge  upon  Chinese  settees, 
or  a  fine  promenade  upon  its  cemented  walks.  In  the  centre  is 
a  neat  Episcopal  Chapel,  and  the  flags  of  three  nations,  ours 
being  one  of  the  number,  are  flying  from  elevated  flag-staffs. 
Adjoining  the  grounds  is  an  extended  boat-house  which  contains 
the  finest  collection  of  race-boats  of  the  most  delicate  construc- 
tion in  the  world,  for  the  regattas  of  the  English  and  American 
residents,  and  for  daily  exercise,  as  it  is  not  safe  to  penetrate  into 
the  country ;  there  are  no  drives,  and  in  fact  horses  are  rarely 
seen  or  used,  the  dense  population  and  low  price  of  labor  with 
the  use  of  the  buffalo,  supplying  their  places.  The  latter  animal 
is  nearly  amphibious,  and  gets  a  portion  of  his  supplies  in  low 
grounds  unfit  for  cultivation  ;  in  fact  the  Chinese,  being  the 
most  laborious,  economical,  and  indefatigable  people  perhaps  in. 
the  world,  cultivate  every  inch  of  ground,  as  far  as  I  can  per- 


THE    FESTIVAL    OF   THE   DEAD.  247 

ceive  in  my  excursions  up  and  down  the  river,  and  along  the 
paddy  or  rice  fields.  I  arrived  opportunely  for  the  Festival  of 
the  Dead,  but  it  reminded  me  more  of  the  Fourth  of  July  at 
home,  from. the  constant  discharge  of  crackers  and  fireworks. 
The  flower  boats,  which  are  eighty  to  one  hundred  feet  in 
length,  with  cabins  beautifully  decorated,  and  literally  overhung 
and  festooned  with  large,  beautiful,  vari-colored  lanterns  at 
night  in  long  processions, .  with  the  beating  of  gongs,  and 
the  playing  of  instruments,  in  sound  not  unlike  the  Scotch  bag- 
pipe, produced  a  most  singular  effect.  The  offerings,  which  are 
made  to  the  deceased  friends  and  burned  in  the  streets,  are  made 
to  represent  clothes,  money,  and  other  articles ;  and  the  consump- 
tion of  prepared  folded  paper  of  different  colors,  some  of  gold 
and  silver  gilt,  which  are  placed  together  by  the  masses  and 
then  fired,  is  not  a  slight  tax  upon  the  people.  An  exhibition 
of  this  kind  took  place  at  the  angle  of  our  house,  and  our  coolies 
and  servants  were  among  the  group,  after  which  copper  coins, 
called  cash,  one  thousand  two  hundred  to  the  dollar,  were  thrown 
out  to  the  beggars  who  were  scrambling  among  the  embers.  I 
am  indebted  to  the  hospitalities  of  Wm.  Buckler,  Esq.,  to  whom 
I  had  letters,  there  being  no  hotel  deserving  of  the  name,  and 
have  received  many  invitations  and  civilities  at  the  hands  of 
other  parties.  The  servants  here  are  excellent,  and  anticipate 
your  every  want. 

I  must  describe  mine  to  you.  His  face,  as  also  the  skin 
around  his  eyes  and  ears,  and  his  head  to  the  crown,  is  well 
shaved;  his  long,  black  hair  falls  plaited  nearly  to  his  ankles; 
his  white  frock  or  long  vest  with  sleeves,  flows  over  his  flowing 
pants  of  white  grass  linen ;  he  has  white  leggins  attached  to  his 
turned  up  and  embroidered  shoes,  and  tied  at  the  knee,  and  they 
are  perfect  patterns  of  cleanliness,  although  droll-looking  objects. 

The  usual  hour  for  tiffin,  or  lunch,  is  three  in  the  afternoon, 
and  dinner  is  at  seven  in  the  evening.  In  accepting  invitations 
out,  custom  demands  and  admits  in  this  hot  climate,  a  full  dress 
of  white,  the  round  jacket  included,  and  your  servant  to  accom- 
pany you. 

Canton  contains  probably  a  million  of  inhabitants.  Ingress 
cannot  be  obtained  within  the  walls.  I  effected  an  entrance  for 
a  short  distance,  but  was  soon  expelled.  The  town  outside  is 
probably  more  interesting  than  within,  as  the  streets  run  parallel 


248  THE   PLACE   OF   EXECUTION. 

with  the  walls,  and  the  houses  are  built  close  up  against  them. 
They  are  ordinarily  one  or  two  stories  high,  the  latter  class 
forming  a  hollow  square  inside,  with  galleries  surrounded  by 
merchandise,  and  arranged  for  the  display  of  goods.  The  sign- 
boards run  up  and  down,  are  gaudily  painted  in  various  colors 
in  Chinese  characters,  with  tasteful  lanterns  at  the  entrance, 
and  in  the  narrow  streets  have  a  gay  appearance. 

The  merchants,  mechanics,  and  artisans,  in  their  many  occupa- 
tions, can  hardly  be  described  on  paper.  The  latter  are  well 
clad  in  the  costume  of  the  country,  and  mostly  in  black,  and 
carry  fans  or  umbrellas.  The  laborers  at  this  season  have  the 
upper  part  of  the  body  exposed;  they  carry  their  burdens 
suspended  from  the  extreme  end  of  a  pliable  round  shoulder- 
pole,  and  cry  out  for  space  as  they  thread  the  dense  throng  in 
the  narrow  passages.  At  certain  hours  at  night,  the  gates  of 
the  different  quarters  are  closed,  and  the  district  is  liable  for  any 
robbery  committed  within  it.  If  the  culprit  is  found,  his  head 
is  taken  off  at  the  execution  ground,  in  the  open  space  within 
the  heart  of  the  town  outside  the  walls.  Their  punishments  are 
most  severe,  some  victims  being  chopped  in  pieces,  and  some 
flayed  alive.  The  ground  was  red  with  gore  as  I  passed 
through  that  quarter,  from  the  recent  execution  of  fifteen  men 
for  treason  ;  a  revolt  has  lately  taken  place  in  one  of  the  pro- 
vinces, and  the  rebels  succeeded  in  destroying  five  hundred  of 
the  celestial  troops,  with  the  exception  of  ten  who  escaped  the 
ambuscade. 

The  object  is  to  change  the  present  dynasty.  Since  the  late 
opium  war  and  treaty  with  the  English,  with  the  privileges  of 
trading,  many  advantages  have  been  gained,  and  gradually  the 
country  will  be  penetrated,  and  we  shall  know  more  of  this 
peculiar  and  interesting  people,  who  boast  of  the  highest  civili- 
zation, and  consider  all  outsiders  as  barbarians.  The  maxims 
of  Confucius,  who  is  held  in  great  veneration,  teach  affection, 
and  obedience  towards  parents,  respect  for  elder  brothers,  and 
•esteem  on  their  part  for  younger  brothers.  The  people  are 
Boodhists  in  religion,  and  the  doors  and  entrances  of  all  the 
shops  have  figures  and  offerings  suspended,  and  incense  tapers 
burning  night  and  morning,  to  keep  off  the  evil  spirits. 

Temples  and  Joss  Houses,  where  are  placed  the  figures  of 
their  gods,  are  seen  frequently  along  the  river  bank,  and  the 


THE   TEMPLE    OF   HOXAN.  249 

great  Temple  of  Honan  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is 
extensive  and  very  curious.  On  entering  the  gate  from  the 
river  side  you  pass  under  a  line  of  shade  trees,  and  enter  three 
temples  in  succession,  with  colossal  figures  of  Joss,  seven  in 
number,  of  giant  form,  in  sitting  postures,  and  in  size  reminding 
me  of  the  figures  Gog  and  Magog,  in  London.  The  architecture 
of  the  buildings  is  strikingly  Chinese,  with  figures  of  lions  and 
dragons  at  the  angles.  The  priests  have  their  heads  clean 
shaved,  and  the  beating  of  the  kettle-drums  of  huge  size,  and 
the  sound  of  their  instruments  at  hours  of  worship,  are  almost 
deafening.  The  contents  of  some  of  the  temples  remind  one 
of  a  museum,  from  the  great  variety  of  armor  and  figures. 
The  grounds  attached  to  the  temple  of  Honan  contain  a  pond 
for  the  cultivation  of  the  sacred  lotus,  or  water  lily,  and  granite 
monuments  wherein  repose  the  ashes  of  the  priests,  who  are 
buried  in  a  small  stone  structure,  which  is  inclosed  on  three 
sides,  within  shady  bamboo  trees ;  the  blackened  and  smoky 
chimney  betokened  recent  use.  Eight  noble  fat  hogs  are  within 
the  inclosure  of  the  temple,  and  are  represented  to  the  faithful  as 
immortal ;  in  the  event  of  accident,  however,  others  are  in  reserve. 
Opium  is  freely  used  by  the  people,  and  the  trade  in  it  has 
increased  to  a  frightful  extent,  although  contraband,  the  officials 
being  engaged  in  the  traffic,  so  that  the  consumption  has 
increased  to  twenty-five  millions  of  dollars  per  annum.  This, 
in  a  population  of  three  hundred  millions,  is  considered  not  to 
be  a  great  excess,  but  it  tells  a  sad  story  on  the  constitution  of  an 
habitual  smoker.  The  use  of  tea  is  of  course  general,  and  spirit 
is  distilled  from  rice.  The  Houqua  gardens  belonging  to  the  great 
merchant  deceased,  some  few  miles  above  the  city,  are  in  good 
taste,  with  fish-ponds,  artificial  cascades  and  grottoes,  and  a  vast 
number  of  fruit  trees,  plants,  and  flowers,  peculiar  to  the  climate. 


LXIII. 

Hong  Kong,  China,  Aug.  20,  1851. 

This  island,  the  name  of  which  translated  is  Fragrant  Springs 

(it  is  certainly  supplied  with  running  water,  though  barren  and 

hilly),  is  twenty-one  miles  in  circumference,  and  is  situated  on 

the  north  side  of  the  bay  which  communicates  with  the  Canton 


250  HONG   KONG. 

river,  to  which  it  is  the  ke3^  It  was  ceded  in  treaty  to  the 
English,  and  is  a  great  acquisition,  but  has  cost  them  five  or  six 
millions  in  erecting  buildings  for  troops,  fortifications,  and  gene- 
ral improvements,  in  addition  to  the  large  expenditures  of 
English  capitalists.  It  is  decidedly  an  English  town,  although 
their  numbers  are  not  great  therein,  though  it  contains  a  regi- 
ment of  one  thousand  troops.  Its  being  a  free  port  facilitates 
contraband  trade ;  it  has  a  large  Chinese  population,  and  in  all 
contains  probably  twenty  thousand  inhabitants.  Macao,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  bay,  about  thirty  miles  distant,  occupied  for 
centuries  by  the  Portuguese,  is  an  agreeable  place  of  residence, 
but  it  has,  through  bad  management,  lost  its  trade,  and  its  har- 
bor is  quite  deserted.  It  is  now  used  as  a  place  of  summer 
resort,  but  rents  have  declined,  and  the  people  are  poor.  The 
heat  of  Hong  Kong  and  Canton  is  very  oppressive  at  this  season 
of  the  year;  we  had  the  thermometer  in  the  latter  city  from 
ninety-eight  to  one  hundred  for  several  days  in  succession,  with 
but  little  difference  in  the  night.  Humboldt  says  that  La 
Guayra,  in  South  America,  is  the  hottest  place  in  the  world,  but 
I  suffered  more  from  the  heat  in  Canton  than  there. 

Before  leaving  Hong  Kong,  I  made  an  excursion  to  the 
Whampoa  Pagoda,  which  is  nine  stories  high,  of  an  octagonal 
form,  and  has  in  the  distance  a  most  imposing  effect.  The  duck 
boats  by  the  river  bank  attracted  my  attention ;  the  ducks  are 
driven  ashore  in  large  numbers  to  feed,  and  at  the  sound  of  a 
bell  they  rush  back  to  their  quarters,  from  the  circumstance  that 
the  last  one  who  enters  gets  whipped  for  being  dilatory.  The 
Chinese  have  a  temple  here,  also,  well  fitted  up ;  and  last  even- 
ing it  was  magnificently  lighted  by  their  fanciful  lanterns,  and 
a  festival  called  Sing  Song  came  off,  with  the  beating  of  gongs, 
kettle  drums,  and  other  instruments,  and  a  supply  of  confec- 
tionery and  other  eatables,  inside  and  outside  the  building,  upon 
stands,  for  sale. 

There  were  immense  figures  of  men  and  animals,  made  of 
painted  pasteboard  strengthened  by  wires,  which  were  taken  out 
and  burned  as  offerings  to  their  gods.  We  could  expose  our- 
selves with  perfect  safety  among  the  people,  and  examine 
minutely  the  idols  of  the  altars,  feeling  a  sense  of  security  on 
British  soil  which  I  could  not  feel  in  and  about  Canton,  under 
like  circumstances. 


SIGHTS   FROM   MY  WINDOWS.  251 

I  was  quartered  in  Canton  in  the  most  desirable  part  for 
sights,  and  some  of  a  most  amusing  character  were  constantly 
seen.  One  day  I  counted  from  my  window  eighteen  stout  bar- 
bers, who  carried  on  their  backs  a  three-legged  stool  with  straps 
attached,  and  in  the  bottom  a  chest  of  lances;  they  were 
engaged  on,  or  waiting  for,  customers  in  the  open  court.  The 
operation  of  dressing  the  long  tail  and  scraping  the  pate,  in 
addition  to  the  practice  of  cleaning  the  eye  and  ear,  occupies 
some  time,  for  all  of  which  they  get  about  six  cash,  or  half  a 
cent  each.  Mandarins  occasionally  passed  in  sedan  chairs,  with 
suites  of  attendants,  and  the  hurry  of  the  crowd  was  observed 
to  allow  their  maudarinships  a  free  passage.  A  large  wedding 
procession  attracted  my  attention  from  the  great  quantity  of 
presents  therein.  I  counted  fifty  coolies  with  loaded  hand- 
barrows,  filled  with  fruit,  flowers,  confectioneries,  cakes,  nuts, 
robes,  &c.,  in  rich  profusion,  preceding  the  bride,  who  was  con- 
ducted to  the  house  of  the  groom  veiled,  in  a  sedan  chair,  as 
the  tiny  feet  of  the  ladies  are  seldom  seen  in  the  streets.  They 
are  affianced  early  by  their  parents  without  ever  having  seen 
their  lovers ;  and  when  their  intended  husbands  gaze  upon  them, 
if  acceptable,  they  are  supported  by  women  across  a  pan  of 
coals  into  the  house. 

They  are  sometimes  rejected,  but  damages  are  expected.  This 
leads  to  unhappy  marriages  and  polygamy,  which  is  recognised 
by  the  law,  the  children  having  legitimate  rights.  The  river- 
women  all  go  bare-footed  in  warm  weather,  and  their  feet  are  of 
natural  size. 

The  upper  classes  still  continue  the  bandaging  of  the  feet  as  a 
mark  of  rank,  which  is  eulogized  in  Chinese  poetry.  This  bar- 
barous practice  consists  in  turning  under  the  small  toes  of  the 
infant  and  bandaging  them,  leaving  only  the  great  toe  exposed, 
which  system  in  course  of  time  raises  the  instep  and  throws  the 
heel  backwards,  giving  them  more  equilibrium  ;  the  iron  shoe 
is  not  used,  but  the  wrappers  are  changed  daily.  Among  the 
poorest  classes,  female  children  are  much  neglected,  and  frequent 
instances  of  infanticide  occur,  woman  being  considered  born  to 
drudgery,  and  not  meriting  an  education. 

I  came  down  by  steamer,  the  only  passenger,  and  in  the  even- 
ing found  fire-arms  brought  up  and  laid  on  the  companion-way ; 
I  naturally  asked  the  cause,  and  was  informed  there  was  nearly 


252  THE   LOSS  OF  THE  STEAMER  PASHA. 

a  million  of  bullion  on  board  for  shipment,  and  that  an  attempt 
had  recently  been  made  by  a  Chinese  crew  who  had  concerted  a 
plan  with  some  fifteen  forward  deck  passengers,  by  previous 
understanding,  for  the  taking  of  the  shipment  of  specie,  and  to 
cut  off  the  officers  while  at  table,  and  run  the  boat  outside  of 
Boca  Tigris.  The  plot,  however,  was  discovered  in  time  to  pre- 
vent it. 

Not  unfrequently  the  piratical  Chinese  attack  the  junks,  not- 
withstanding all  their  crews  go  armed  with  spears  and  lances. 
Now  they  employ  all  Englishmen  on  board  of  the  river  boats 
which  contain  treasure.  We  have  had  news  of  the  loss  of  the 
steamer  Pasha,  which  was  run  down  by  the  steamer  Erie,  in  the 
Straits  of  Malacca,  with  the  loss  of  several  lives,  and  a  large 
quantity  of  opium.  It  was  from  carelessness,  as  the  steamers  had 
exchanged  signals  about  midnight,  but  notwithstanding,  the 
Erie  at  full  speed  struck  the  Pasha  with  her  port  bow,  a  little 
slanting,  a  few  feet  abaft  the  mainmast,  and  she  sank  in  five 
minutes,  without  having  time  to  lower  her  boats. 

This  has  produced  great  excitement  here,  both  steamers 
belonging  to  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Steam  Co.  I  think 
now  I  can  embark  with  safety  to-morrow  on  board  the  steamer 
Malta  for  Singapore,  as  more  care  is  always  exercised  after  an 
accident. 


LXIY. 

Singapore,  Sept.  1,  1851. 

Having  arrived  at  Singapore,  I  will  resume  my  narrative. 
We  had  rather  a  rough  passage  down,  in  the  face  of  a  south-west 
monsoon  in  the  China  Sea,  for  a  distance  of  about  one  thousand 
four  hundred  miles.  The  Malta  is  an  iron  steamer  of  thirteen 
hundred  tons  burden,  well  disciplined  and  manned  by  Lascars, 
or  Indians,  from  Bombay,  Chinese  as  deck  hands,  and  Seedes, 
or  blacks  from  the  African  coast  as  stokers,  or  firemen,  the  heat 
being  too  great  for  Europeans. 

It  was  curious  to  see  the  variety  of  costume  of  the  deck  hands 
as  they  left  port ;  it  was  Sunday  at  the  time,  and  they  did  not 
doff"  the  costume  of  the  holiday  until  we  left  the  harbor.  I 
noticed  more  particularly  the  gay-colored  turbans,  white  frocks 


TABLE   TALK.  253 

and  fancy  belts  of  the  Lascars,  and  the  long  tails  of  the  Chinese, 
while  many  of  their  female  friends  were  in  boats  around  the, 
ship,  keeping  up  a  constant  discharge  from  bunches  of  fire- 
crackers. We  were  only  seven  passengers,  English  gentlemen 
and  officers  of  the  army,  myself  the  only  American.  The  sys- 
tem adopted  throughout  by  the  steam  navigation  company  is  to 
charge  enormous  prices,  more  than  double  the  rates  of  fare  of 
our  Atlantic  steamers;  for  instance,  from  Hong  Kong  to  this 
place,  the  passage,  including  exchange,  costs  one  hundred  and 
seventy  dollars,  the  passage  to  Calcutta  being  upwards  of  four  hun- 
dred dollars.  They  furnish  a  profusion  of  everything  available 
in  the  way  of  supplies,  rendering  the  consumption  of  liquors, 
wines,  and  soda,  greater  than  in  the  West  India  line,  where  each 
individual  signs  a  card  for  the  steward  as  he  gives  his  order,  and 
settles  weekly,  or  at  the  expiration  of  the  voyage. 

The  English  officers  and  gentlemen  are  particular  in  dressing 
for  dinner ;  considerable  etiquette  is  observed,  and  they  generally 
occupy  much  time  at  table.  I  am  frequently  called  upon  to 
combat  error  and  prejudice  against  my  country  in  a  variety  of 
ways.  The  minds  of  some  have  been  poisoned  by  such  works 
as  those  of  Mrs.  Troll  ope,  and  others. 

I  was  told  that  I  was  the  first  overland  California  traveller. 
I  could  answer  the  interrogations  about  lynch  law,  rapid  eating 
or  bolting  of  food  at  hotels  and  on  board  of  steamers ;  and  in  the 
latter  charges,  I  could  only  admit,  American-like,  that  we  were 
a  young  but  fast  people,  and  that  we  could  not  enjoy  the  luxu- 
rious ease  of  old  countries,  as  time  did  not  permit ;  that  pioneer 
life  on  the  borders  cautioned  the  sovereign  people  where  laws 
did  not  exist,  to  rid  themselves  of  robbers  and  assassins. 

Throughout  the  East  the  Punkah  is  made  use  of  while  the 
guests  are  at  meals  ;  it  is  a  long  frame  from  three  and  a  half  to 
four  feet  in  depth,  covered  with  white  cloth,  with  a  fringe  run- 
ning the  whole  length  of  the  table,  and  suspended  on  hinges 
from  the  ceiling,  to  which  is  attached  a  cord  passing  over  a  pul- 
ley, and  put  in  motion  by  an  invisible  hand  behind  a  screen,  or 
passing  through  the  wall  into  the  adjoining  room.  We  have 
three  Lascar  boys  in  costume,  who  are  seated  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  dining  saloon,  keeping  up  a  constant  circulation  of 
air  during  meals. 

I  have  been  under  the  surgeon's  hands  since  I  embarked,  with 


254  SINGAPORE. 

a  slight  attack  of  Hong  Kong  fever ;  consequently  I  could  not 
,enjoy  my  passage,  and  was  disgusted  witli  the  sight  of  eatables 
and  drinkables.  I  am  now  quite  recovered,  and  a  drive  about 
the  environs  of  this  city  in  a  palanquin  has  had  a  good  effect. 
These  palanquins  are  small  carriages  with  forward  and  back 
seats,  adapted  for  two  persons,  and  on  low  wheels,  drawn  by 
small  Sumatra  ponies  full  of  spirit.  The  drivers,  or  rather  run- 
ners, are  Malabars  from  Madras,  of  a  dark  ebony  color.  The 
costume  of  my  man  is  .a  white  scarf  bound  round  the  head,  loose 
white  pants  coming  to  his  knees,  and  a  red  sash  about  his  loins, 
so  that  his  limbs  are  perfectly  free,  and  he  runs  beside  the  horse 
at  the  top  of  his  speed,  holding  one  rein  and  the  trace  at  the 
same  time  for  safety  and  support.  These  men  will  run  to  the 
end  of  the  island,  sixteen  miles,  if  occasion  requires.  You  not 
iinfrequently  see  persons  galloping  on  horseback,  and  the  man 
running  along  to  take  the  rein-s  when  the  rider  dismounts. 

Singapore,  near  the  Straits  of  Malacca,  is  a  small  city  on  a  small 
island,  well  built  by  the  English.  It  is  a  free  port,  and  large 
numbers  of  vessels  from  all  parts  visit  it  for  purposes  of  traffic. 

Great  numbers  of  Chinese,  say  as  many  as  thirty  thousand, 
have  migrated  to  this  point,  and  can  be  seen  in  every  kind  of 
pursuit ;  they  monopolize  almost  every  species  of  labor,  and 
being  more  vigorous  than  the  others,'  can  work  cheaper  at  the 
various  mechanical  branches.  The  greatest  variety  of  costume 
and  language  is  found  here,  congregating  from  all  the  East  and 
all  the  islands,  Singapore  being  in  the  highroad  from  east  to  west. 

I  shall  proceed  to  Penang  upon  Prince  of  Wales  Island,  by 
steamer,  and  thence  to  the  island  of  Ceylon,  on  the  other  side  of 
the  bay  of  Bengal,  where  I  shall  wait  for  the  steamer  from  Suez, 
on  her  way  up  to  Calcutta,  and  as  Ceylon  is  represented  as  being 
a  beautiful  island,  and  I  shall  be  there  some  two  weeks,  you 
may  expect  to  hear  from  me. 


LXY. 

Kandy,  Island  of  Ceylon,  Sept.  16,  1851. 
I  FIND  myselt  now  one  hundred  and  forty-four  miles  from 
Point  de  Galle,  the  place  where  I  left  the  steamer  on  my  route 
from   Penang   to   Singapore.     Galle   is  a  small  fortified  town 


ON  THE   ROAD   TO   COLOMBO.  255 

which  was  first  occupied  by  the  Portuguese,  taken  afterwards 
by  the  Dutch,  and  finally  acquired  by  the  English,  who  are  now 
in  full  and  complete  possession  of  this  large  island,  extending 
from  6°  to  10'^  N.  Lat.,  from  the  Tropic  of  Cancer,  at  the 
west  entrance  of  the  Bay  of  Bengal  opposite  the  Coromandel 
coast.  It  is  about  two-thirds  the  size  of  Ireland,  and  once  con- 
tained a  large  population,  but  at  present  only  one  and  a  half 
million.  From  Point  de  Galle  I  proceeded  to  Colombo,  the 
chief  commercial  mart,  distant  by  land  seventy-two  miles, 
winding  along  through  almost  uninterrupted  cocoa-nut  groves, 
for  some  sixty  miles,  with  long  lines  of  thatched  cabins,  villages 
at  intervals,  and  the  most  peculiar  and  primitive  population  in 
many  respects  I  have  ever  met  with.  The  natives  along  the 
coast  are  copper-colored,  with  fine  features  and  slender  forms ; 
they  wear  long  hair,  falling  half  down  their  backs  when  loose 
and  male  and  female  wear  two  shell  combs,  one  over  the  crown, 
and  the  other  of  great  height  to  make  the  coiffure  behind  ;  it  is 
difiicult  at  first  to  distinguish  the  sexes  among  the  young.  The 
cocoa-nut  tree  is  the  chief  support ;  they  pay  some  attention  to 
fishing,  however,  in  the  oddest  vessels  that  ever  floated,  con- 
sisting in  many  instances  of  simple  "dug-outs,"  with  an  out- 
rigger of  bent  boughs,  which  are  lashed  to  the  side  of  the  vessel, 
and  to  the  end  is  attached  a  pointed  log,  floating  on  the  surface, 
and  if  the  canvas  is  carrying  the  bark  over,  they  balance  it  by 
sitting  on  the  outrigger,  sailing  with  great  rapidity. 

The  harvest  of  the  cocoa  is  now  at  hand.  The  milk  is  refresh- 
ing, and  quenches  thirst ;  the  fruit  is  not  only  eaten,  but  large 
quantities  of  oil  are  made  from  it  for  use  and  exportation.  The 
bark  is  rotted  in  pits  of  water,  and  bruised,  then  the  fibres  are 
pulled  and  made  into  cordage  and  rope  of  different  kinds.  The 
trees  stand  from  six  to  fifteen  feet  apart,  and  are  from  fifty  to 
eighty  feet  in  height ;  large  use  is  made  of  the  liquid  that  exudes 
from  the  off-shoots  near  the  top  of  the  tree,  which  is  distilled 
into  arrack,  and  the  natives  may  be  seen  like  ourang-outangs, 
moving  from  the  tops  of  the  trees  on  the  cordage  made  from  the 
fibre  to  aid  in  climbing,  while  lower  down  are  the  earthen  vessels 
in  which  the  juice  is  collected.  After  passing  through  the 
cocoa-nut  forests  the  cinnamon  plantations  present  themselves, 
within  a  range  of  eight  to  ten  miles  of  Colombo,  and  are  mostly 
owned  by  foreigners. 


256  KANDY. 

One  of  the  vices  to  which  the  natives  are  mostly  addicted  is 
the  excessive  use  of  the  betel,  which  is  a  composition  of  the  betel- 
leaf,  the  areka-nut,  and  chanam  or  luire,  made  from  the  muscle- 
shell,  to  which  is  sometimes  added  tobacco ;  it  not  only  has  a 
stimulating  effect,  but  causes  the  lips,  teeth,  and  inside  of  the 
mouth  to  appear  blood-red,  and  tends  in  time  to  blacken  the 
teeth,  which  is  considered  by  some  a  mark  of  beauty.  The 
stranger,  when  he  first  finds  himself  among  a  group  of  dark, 
ebony  Kandians,  and  copper-colored  Cingalese,  with  a  sj)rinkling 
of  Malabars  in  the  primitive  state,  and  in  the  costume  of  our  first 
parents,  with  their  mouths  full  of  betel,  imagines  he  has  fallen 
among  demons ;  at  least  I  did,  though  I  soon  became  accustomed 
to  the  sight. 

The  old  kingdom  of  Kandy  successfully  resisted  the  Dutch 
and  Portuguese,  and  for  a  long  time  the  English,  as  from  their 
fastnesses  in  the  mountains,  without  roads  to  facilitate  the  enemy, 
the  natives  were  long  enabled  to  keep  possession  of  the  interior, 
after  their  sea-ports  were  occupied,  and  until  they  finally  suc- 
cumbed to  the  English.  It  lies  seventy-two  miles  from  Colombo, 
and  fourteen  hundred  and  sixty-seven  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  and  is  characterized  by  the  grandeur  of  the  mountain 
scenery,  and  its  wooded  hills  and  luxuriant  vegetation.  The 
climate  is  very  pleasant,  its  average  temperature  being  74°. 
The  approach  to  this  place  is  full  of  interest  and  novelty. 

You  find  the  paddy  or  rice  fields  in  the  valleys  cultivated  by 
the  natives,  who  subsist  mostly  upon  rice,  made  into  curry, 
adding  a  sauce  composed  of  cocoa,  pepper,  ginger,  and  coriander 
seed.  Most  of  them  are  Boodhists,  and  touch  no  animal  food, 
it  being  contrary  to  their  religion  to  take  life.  They  are  often 
seen  with  almost  naked  skins,  and  hatless  heads,  their  hair  tied 
up  in  a  bunch  behind  or  falling  over  their  shoulders,  following 
black,  uncouth,  and  sluggish  buffaloes,  which  drag  a  rude  wooden 
plough  through  the  muddy  field,  inundated  from  the  mountain 
streams. 

Since  the  English  have  occupied  the  country,  the  colonial 
government  has  opened  good  roads,  and  much  attention  has 
been  given  to  the  planting  of  coffee,  which  is  the  chief  source 
of  profit,  and  enables  it  to  place  its  troops  in  different  parts  of 
the  island.  An  attempt  at  rebellion  in  this  the  most  warlike 
province,    two  ycare  since,  after  a  considerable  massacre,  was 


THE   KANDIANS.  257 

soon  suppressed.  The  road  to  Colombo  is  now  inucli  travelled 
by  two-wheeled  carts  with  high  covered  tops  of  cocoa-nut 
plaited  branches,  drawn  by  diminutive  black  cattle,  about  three 
or  four  feet  high,  with  short  horns,  looking  not  unlike  large 
calves,  but  tough  and  strong.  Travelling  Bandys  are  frequently 
seen ;  they  are  about  the  size  of  a  good  dog  cart,  with  a  small 
bullock  in  the  shafts,  and  a  cord  running  through  his  nose  and 
over  his  head,  to  the  sides  of  which  a  pair  of  lines  are  attached  f 
two  or  three  persons  sit  inside  with  their  knees  drawn  up  to  the 
chin.  The  cabins  by  the  road-side  are  in  low  and  sheltered 
positions ;  they  are  furnished  with  two  or  three  stools,  a  few 
plaited  mats,  earthen  water-jars,  a  rice  mortar,  and  some  few 
culinary  articles.  Such  of  the  women  as  are  not  engaged  in 
weeding  and  reaping  in  the  fields  busy  themselves  in  preparing 
betel,  cooking  curry,  or  in  attending  to  their  children.  In 
approaching  Colombo,  as  also  this  place,  appearances  change, 
the  difference  of  caste,  of  which  they  were  very  particular 
under  the  old  regime,  being  still  seen. 

The  Kandians,  despising  the  effeminate  combs  of  the  low- 
country  people,  wear  a  gay-colored  handkerchief  tied  around 
the  head,  leaving  the  top  exposed ;  they  wear  a  white  or  fancy 
colored  cloth  of  double  breadth  wrapped  around  the  loins,  while 
Mormons  or  Mussulmans  with  turbans,  and  Hindoos  with  painted 
faces,  and  also  Malabars  and  other  races,  make  up  the  pictures- 
que masquerade.  The  Rhodias,  or  outcasts,  a  sort  of  Gipsies, 
are  not  permitted  to  wear  any  garment  other  than  a  sense  of 
propriety  suggests.  The  better  caste  of  women  appear  here  with 
heads  uncovered,  a  long  cloth  of  single  breadth  wrapped  around 
the  loins  and  falling  to  the  ankles,  and  a  portion  thrown  over 
the  left  shoulder.  They  wear  silver,  crystal,  and  brass  bangles 
or  bracelets,  and  flat  ear-rings  about  the  size  of  a  quarter  dollar, 
and  the  thickness  of  a  child's  tin  whistle ;  the  holes  of  the  ears 
are  cut  and  distended  by  weights  while  young,  to  receive  their 
fiat  rings;-  they  also  wear  gold  clasps  in  the  top  of  the  ear, 
which  gives  them  a  strange  appearance,  particularly  with  the 
addition  of  rings  in  the  nose  and  on  the  toes.  Umbrellas  and 
dried  branches  of  the  tallipot  tree  are  much  in  use  to  prevent 
the  action  of  the  sun's  rays.  This  is  the  residence  of  Governor 
Anderson,  whose  houses  and  grounds  are  quite  pretty.  There 
are   some   fifty   foreigners,    inclusive  of  ladies,  as  civilians,,  in 

17 


258  ANCIENT  EDIFICES. 

addition  to  a  regiment  of  troops,  partly  Europeans  and  partly 
Malays. 

From  Singapore  we  passed  up  the  Straits  of  Malacca  to 
Penang,  on  Prince  of  Wales  Island,  where  we  coaled  and 
remained  one  day,  wliicli  gave  an  opportunity  for  a  ride  to  see 
the  town,  and  then  proceeded  to  Ceylon,  making  the  distance 
of  some  fourteen  hundred  miles  within  eight  days  to  Point  de 
Galle,  where  I  left  the  steamer  on  my  way  north  to  Calcutta, 
while  she  proceeded  to  Suez. 


LXVI. 

Kandy,  Island  of  Oetlon,  •Sept.  20,  1851. 

I  AM  surprised  to  find  such  remains  of  civilization  among  a 
■people  who  once  had  a  dense  population,  and  were  somewhat 
advanced  in  the  arts,  as  their  relics  testify,  but  who  had  fallen 
to  the  darkest  period  of  the  middle  ages.  The  palace  of  the 
king,  the  hall  of  audience,  with  its  elaborately-carved  wooden 
columns,  the  hexagonal  tower  two  stories  high,  and  the  chief 
Boodhist  temple  of  the  island,  formerly  under  royal  patronage, 
present  a  front  of  some  six  hundred  feet  of  ground,  with  a  wall 
and  moat  with  drawbridge,  supplied  with  water  from  a  beautiful 
artificial  lake,  with  a  long  line  of  parapet  with  triangular 
centres  whereon  to  place  lamps  during  the  illuminations,  and 
when  the  king  addressed  the  people  from  the  balcony  overhang- 
ing the  canal,  and  witnessed  the  religious  processions  with 
elephants  which  are  annually  continued. 

These  buildings  are  now  all  occupied  for  government  purposes, 
except  the  temple  of  Boodh.  On  its  archways  and  walls  are 
sculptured  hideous  figures  of  dragons,  and  images  of  gods  and 
devils ;  the  paintings  are  rude,  and  bear  a  mixed  resemblance 
to  those  of  China  and  Egypt.  The  present  powder-house  is  in 
a  small  building  in  the  centre  of  the  lake,  which  was  a  great 
resort  for  the  king,  while  the  harem-building  on  its  banks  is  the 
hospital  for  sick  soldiers. 

We  have  just  had  a  festival  day,  and  I  have  occupied  some 
time  among  the  Boodhists.  Their  daily  hours  of  worship  are 
from  six  to  eight  in  the  morning,  and  the  same  time  in  the  even- 
ing, and  on  this  occasion  the  noise  of  the  silver  tom-toms,  or 


A  BOODHIST  TEMPLE.  259 

kettle-drums,  and  the  harsh  sound  of  as  many  instruments 
resembling  the  Scotch  bagpipe,  with  their  discordant  sounds, 
were  almost  deafening.  One  of  the  sanctums  of  the  temple, 
which  is  ascended  by  a  small  flight  of  steps,  has  two  immense 
pairs  of  elephant  tusks,  also  the  carved  and  painted  figures  of 
devils,  to  guard  the  entrance,  and  the  room  is  about  twelve  feet 
square,  hung  with  gold  brocade,  somewhat  rusty.  Upon  a 
raised  platform,  inclosed  by  railings,  and  hourly  unlocked,  is 
seen  a  figure  not  unlike  a  huge  bell,  thirty-four  and  a  half 
feet  high,  and  nine  and  a  half  feet  in  circumference.  It  is  in 
three  pieces,  which  are  joined,  and  which  contain  within  each 
other  seven  smaller  caskets ;  the  smallest  is  supposed  by  the 
people  to  contain  the  tooth  of  their  god  Boodh. 

The  outer  casket,  or  figure,  is  ornamented  with  rich  gold 
chains  and  gems ;  the  most  remarkable  is  the  figure  of  a  gold 
bird,  suspended  by  massive  chains,  beset  with  diamonds,  rubies, 
sapphires,  and  emeralds.  This  is  considered  by  the  natives  the 
most  valuable  acquisition  in  the  world.  Another  of  the  sanc- 
tums contains  the  figures  of  gods,  of  gold  and  silver  gilt,  and  of 
colossal  size ;  the  entrance  is  guarded  by  lions,  the  altars  are 
covered  by  sweet  smelling  sacred  flowers,  which  the  devotees  of 
all  classes  and  sexes  make  as  offerings  before  prostrating  them- 
selves and  retiring  in  succession,  and  which  the  priests,  with 
shaved  heads,  in  yellow  robes,  receive.  The  people  came  loaded 
from  the  country  with  supplies  suspended  at  the  two  ends  of 
poles,  borne  upon  the  naked  shoulder — the  usual  manner  of 
carrying  burdens  ;  and  at  twelve  (noon),  the  priests  partook  of  a 
repast.  It  reminded  me  of  a  vegetable  and  fruit  market,  with 
heaps  of  rice,  cocoas,  pine-apples,  and  prepared  betel,  to  the  use 
of  which  the  priests  are  addicted,  besides  a  variety  of  presents. 
As  I  stood  alone  among  these  half-clad  heathen,  who  stared  at 
me  with  surprise,  I  accosted  a  boy  whose  dress  indicated  Chris- 
tian discipline,  and  who,  speaking  English,  was  able  to  give  me 
much  information,  having  been  educated  by  a  Protestant  mis- 
sionary. 

I  saw  one  marriage  party  in  the  country,  a  few  days  since ; 
they  marry  young,  and  ordinarily  in  the  presence  of  a  witness, 
and  according  to  caste ;  where  they  are  of  any  rank,  the  parents 
arrange  the  matter.  The  girl  in  this  instance  carried  presents  to 
the  house  of  the  groom,  when  both  parties  sat  around  a  pail  of 


260  EELIGIOUS   CUSTOMS. 

paddy  and  ate  with  their  hands,  exchanging  balls  of  rice  and 
cocoa-nut  milk,  with  presents  of  clothes  and  jewels.  The  order 
of  things  is  reversed  here,  for  it  is  quite  common  for  women  to 
have  two  husbands,  who  seem  to  live  happily  together ;  they 
think  it  polite  to  do  so,  besides  being  less  expensive ;  while  in 
the  event  of  the  death  of  either  husband,  the  family  is  provided 
for.  Boodh  came  from  the  east,  consequently  in  life  they  lie  in 
that  direction,  but  in  death  they  turn  the  body ;  the  higher 
castes  here  burn  the  corpse,  the  lower  bury  it  in  shallow  graves. 
The  funeral  pile  of  the  former  is  a  layer  of  cocoa-nut  shells,  a 
layer  of  huslis  of  the  same,  then  a  layer  of  wood ;  the  nearest 
relative  fires  the  heap  in  presence  of  a  priest,  and  then  returns 
home.  Strips  of  young  cocoa-nut  stalks  split  are  put  up  to 
mark  the  locality,  which  is  visited  after  seven  days ;  stones  are 
erected  to  mark  the  spot,  and  a  devil  called  "  Sohou-Yaka  "  is 
appointed  to  the  care  of  the  burial  grounds ;  at  night,  the  natives 
will  not  approach  these  places,  fearing  malignant  influences.  The 
Boodhists  have  a  great  variety  of  devils,  and  have  the  greatest 
fear  of  evil  spirits,  some  of  which  preside  over  the  cocoa-nut, 
toddy  and  other  trees.  The  favorite  devil  of  the  Kandians  is 
called  Graveleyaka.  He  takes  care  of  the  children,  cattle,  and 
grounds,  and  the  people 'feed  him  well  with  rice  and  curry,  to 
keep  him  in  good  temper,  otherwise  he  gets  vexed,  and  they  are 
attacked  by  the  misfortunes  against  which  they  strive  to  pro- 
pitiate him. 

The  other  morning,  at  an  early  hour,  in  the  country,  I  heard 
music,  and  saw  lights  beaming  in  the  wood.  It  was,  I  found,  a 
devil-dance.  Some  one  having  fallen  sick,  it  was  attributed  to 
witchcraft,  and  a  devil-priest  was  called  to  cure  him.  They  had 
made  a  house  of  bushes  and  put  the  sick  man  in,  it,  and  had 
commenced  dancing  at  eight  o'clock  at  night,  and  the  priest  was 
just  concluding,  and  performing  a  charm  of  some  sort.  Taking 
the  leaves  of  a  certain  tree,  they  make  up  several  dishes,  and 
put  rice  oh  top  with  a  lighted  match,  that  the  surrounding  devils 
may  inhale  the  odor ;  the  priest  then  says  another  charm,  and 
commands  all  other  devils  to  "  vamose."  He  then,  says  they 
have  "  put  out,"  and  they  throw  everything  in  the  bushes  and 
leave  them  there,  and  he  gets  well  paid  for  his  trouble. 

This  is  a  remarkable  country  for  elephants  ;  the  government 
employs  them  for  heavy  work  on  the  roads  ^  the  immense  carta 


CALCUTTA.  261 

and  wagons  are  drawn  by  them,  and  the  rollers  for  flattening 
the  earth  are  made  in  proportion  to  their  strength.  I  visited  the 
stables  and  saw  them  on  the  road,  but  none  have  crossed  my 
track,  though  they  are  still  very  numerous  in  the  jungle,  and 
sometimes  very  destructive  to  the  plantations.  I  was  informed 
that  eleven  were  taken  from  this  region  and  shipped  to  New 
York  not  long  since,  and  presuming  that  you  are  familiar  with 
the  manner  in  which  they  were  caught,  I  will  not  attempt  a 
description.  We  are  subject  here  to  a  land  leech,  which  during 
wet  weather  is  very  troublesome,  and  makes  leggings  necessary 
for  protection  in  the  grass  and  woods.  A  gentleman  travelling 
in  our  company  found  the  blood  flowing  freely,  not  having  pro- 
vided himself  with  leggings  ;  the  natives  have  remedies  against 
the  bite.  Ceylon  is  famous  for  the  variety  of  rare  and  precious 
stones  found  in  Galle  and  Colombo,  which  are  a  source  of  con- 
siderable traffic  with  vendors.  The  pearl  fishery  of  the  coast 
was  formerly  very  productive,  but  of  late  years  it  is  of  little 
value  ;  the  cause  is  supposed  to  be  over-fishing  the  original  stock 
of  oysters  when  nearly  exhausted. 


LXYII. 

Calcutta,  India,  Oct.  8,  1851. 

I  LEFT  Ceylon  by  the  steamer  Hindostan,  on  her  way  from 
Suez,  with  the  overland  mail,  having  about  forty  passengers, 
mostly  from  England.  I  now  find  myself  in  the  so-styled  city 
of  palaces,  upon  the  banks  of  the  Hoogley,  one  of  the  many 
branches  of  the  Ganges,  and  about  one  hundred  and  forty  miles 
from  the  Sand  Heads  of  hazardous  navigation,  while  the  jungle, 
on  its  lower  banks,  is  haunted  with  the  famous  Bengal  tiger,  a 
terror  to  the  shipwrecked  marriner.  Strong  indications  of  a 
heavier  storm  than  we  had  already  encountered,  two  days  below 
the  entrance,  induced  our  captain  to  turn  back  and  run  south, 
which  was  most  unusual  and  unwarrantable,  with  a  well-found 
steamer  of  fourteen  hundred  tons  burden,  and  caused  a  delay  of 
thirty-six  hours,  proving  an  error  of  judgment. 

This  city,  the  capital  of  the  Bengal  Presidency,  is  said  to  con- 
tain from  five  to  six  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  the  foreign 
population  not  exceeding  one  thousand,  besides  the  troops.     The 


262  THE   PALANQUIN. 

public  buildings  of  the  East  India  Company,  inclusive  of  the 
Governor's  palace,  and  private  residences  of  the  employees  of 
government,  are  well  constructed,  and  discover  a  good  deal  of 
taste  in  their  erection  and  site.     The  course  or  esplanade,  and 
general  drives  along  the  river  banks  to  Garden  Reach  (the  out 
of  town    residences),  are  extensive  and    beautiful,  and  display 
more  luxurious  vehicles,  and  finer  horses  with  out-riders,  and 
bearers  in  costume,  than  can  be  found  for  the  same  population 
anywhere  in  the  world.     The  evening  six  o'clock  drive  before 
dinner  being  the  greatest  means  of  enjoyment  in  this  hot  climate, 
every  sacrifice  is  made  on  the  part  of  all  classes  to  sport  their 
equipages.     I  arrived  here  just  after  the  commencement  of  the 
annual  Hindoo  festival  called  the  Doorgah  Poojah,  during  which 
all  business  is  suspended.     The  heat  is  most  oppressive,  and  no 
white  man  of  any  means  is  seen  walking  in  the  streets  during 
the  day,  but  palanquins  are  in  general  use.     They  are  not  unlike 
small  houses  with  sliding  doors  on  each  side ;  they  contain  a 
mattress  to  lie  upon,  covered  with  matting,  and  sofa  pillows  of 
light  material  upon  which  to  recline  the  head,  and  are  supported 
on  the  shoulders  of  four  Hindoo  bearers,  whose  black  shining 
skins,  reeking  with  perspiration,  denote  the  fatigue  they  endure. 
It  is  astonishing  how  fast  they  get  over  the  surface ;  they  are  to 
be  found  in  all  public  places  and  anxious  for  employment.     It 
is  a  luxurious  mode  of  travel,  and  long  journeys  are  performed 
by  Dawk,  so  called,  with  relays  of  men,  but  to  me  it  is  a  painful 
mode  of  conveyance,  and  scarcely  fast  enough  for  an  American. 
The  Punkah  here  is  indispensable ;  in  the  large  hotel  where  I  am 
staying,  and  which  equals  in  size  some  of  our  large  New  York 
hotels,  all  the  rooms  are  furnished  with  them,  suspended  from 
the  ceiling,  and   necessity  obliges  each  occupant  to   employ  a 
punkah  driver,  who  by  means  of  his  cord  and  pulley  in  the  pas- 
sage, keeps  up  a  constant  circulation  of  air.     The  great  diversity 
of  caste  among  the  Hindoos,  makes  it  necessary  that  house- 
keepers should  employ  a  multitude  of  servants.     The  punkah 
driver  being  inferior,  cannot  be  employed  as  bearer  or  body -ser- 
vant, and  he  in  turn  will  not  wait  at  table.     They  must  be 
employed  as  grooms,  coachmen,  footmen,  cooks,  water-carriers, 
washerwomen,  and  an  infinite  number  of  occupations.     In  dining 
with  an  ofiicial  in  the  East  India  Company's  service,  of  large 
appointment,  who  had  been  a  fellow  passenger,  and  who  had  a 


NAUTCH   GIRLS.  263 

large  retinue  of  servants,  he  informed  me  that  he  required  fifty 
for  his  establishment.  Their  wages  are  low  and  they  furnish 
their  own  supplies,  which  are  mostly  rice  and  curry,  as  they  dis- 
dain the  food  of  the  Christians.  The  Mussulmans,  of  which  I 
have  one,  are  not  so  tenacious,  and  turn  their  attention  to  differ- 
ent kinds  of  work.  The  expenses  of  life  here  are  enormous, 
exceeding  those  of  all  other  oriental  cities.  They  grow  out  of 
the  luxurious  extravagance  of  the  East  India  Company's  ser- 
vants, through  its  extensive  patronage,  and  the  ofHcers  of  the 
Queen's  troops,  who  not  only  exhaust  their  liberal  salaries  but 
are  heavily  in  debt. 

The  native  portion  of  the  city,  which  extends  for  miles,  exhi- 
bits a  striking  contrast  to  the  palaces  of  the  European  quarter. 
The  bazaars  are  worthy  of  being  seen,  but  having  visited  those 
of  Constantinople  and  Grand  Cairo,  they  were  no  novelty  to  me. 
The  otJier  evening  I  attended  the  "  nautches,"  a  species  of  ball  or 
entertainment  given  by  the  native  princes  some  three  miles  dis- 
tant from  the  hotel ;  driving  my  buggy  through  immense  masses 
of  the  populace,  with  the  continual  cries  of  my  servant  and  foot- 
man to  clear  the  track,  I  made  my  way  slowly,  coming  in  con- 
tact with  a  variety  of  vehicles  in  the  darkness  and  confusion. 
At  last  I  emerged  from  this  chaos  of  equipages,  and  managed  to 
get  up  to  the  extreme  end  of  the  lane  to  the  Sohha  Bazaar, 
where  my  vision  was  dazzled  with  the  immense  number  of 
torches.  The  illuminations  of  the  princes  were  intended  to  out- 
rival each  other,  and  were  got  up  with  a  good  deal  of  fanciful 
display  in  oriental  style.  On  pressing  among  the  crowd  through 
the  spacious  arena  of  the  building  amid  the  display  of  tinsel  and 
torchlight,  I  found  a  large  assembly  of  mixed  nations  and  great 
variety  of  costume.  The  interior  was  covered  with  matting  and 
chairs,  with  divans  around  the  wall  for  the  multitude.  The 
Kajah  was  very  polite,  offering  his  divan  with  refreshments,  and 
ordered  the  "nautch"  or  dancing  girls  before  us  to  perform 
their  different  evolutions,  which  delight  the  natives,  but  to  a 
European  are  anything  but  chaste  or  graceful.  They  were 
loaded  with  ornaments  in  their  ears  and  noses,  and  on  their 
necks,  arms,  wrists,  and  ankles;  their  voices  were  put  upon  a 
nasal  half  key,  which  enabled  them  to  keep  it  up  much  longer. 

The  Hindoos  burn  their  dead,  but  the  funeral  pile  is  not  dese 
crated  as  formerly  with  widows  of  deceased  husbands.     In  the 


264  A   HEATHEN   FESTIVAL. 

upper  part  of  the  city  is  found  a  hollow  square  on  the  river  bank, 
enclosed  by  three  high  walls,  the  water-side  being  open ;  a  large 
gateway  receives  the  remains  of  all  Hindoos  whose  friends  can 
afford  to  furnish  the  wood  for  burning.  I  saw  them  congregated 
thither  and  throwing,  according  to  custom,  small  broken  sticks 
upon  the  burning  bodies.  It  was  a  revolting  and  disgusting 
sight  to  witness  the  burning  bodies,  particularly  when  fuel 
enough  is  not  provided  for  their  destruction,  in  which  cases  they 
are  devoured  by  hundreds  of  carrion  birds,  like  the  adjutant  and 
vulture.  Very  many  are  thrown  into  the  river,  and  not  unfre- 
quently  you  meet  them  in  passing  up  and  down,  though  that 
method  of  disposing  of  them  is  contrary  to  law.  We  have  just 
had  the  great  annual  Tumasha,  and  the  worship  paid  to  the  god- 
dess Kallee,  by  immersion.  I  suppose  there  must  have  been  one 
hundred  shrines  mounted  on  platforms  and  supported  on  men's 
shoulders,  representing  the  goddess  in  tinsel  of  gold  and  silver, 
surrounded  by  artificial  flowers,  with  her  six  arms,  and  a  variety 
of  other  figures  upon  the  pedestal.  The  procession  of  votaries 
to  consign  this  inanimate  but  adored  goddess  to  the  holy  waters 
of  the  Ganges,  consisted  of  thousands  of  men,  women,  and  child- 
ren, with  bands  of  music ;  the  tops  of  houses,  terraces,  and  bal- 
conies were  filled  with  human  beings.  The  different  priests  of 
the  goddess  came  from  different  parts  of  the  city,  and  congre- 
gated at  the  strand,  where  this  rash  tide  of  humanity  despatched 
their  deity  on  her  cloudy  voyage  in  the  muddy  waters  of  the 
sacred  stream. 

The  drive  up  the  river  to  Barrackpore,  some  fourteen  miles, 
over  a  perfectly  level  road,  with  rows  of  trees  almost  the  entire 
length,  is  beautiful,  and  a  great  relief  from  a  heated  city.  It  is 
a  military  station,  and  the  country  residence  of  the  governor, 
besides  being  the  finest  park  in  India;  there  is  also  found  there 
a  large  collection  of  wild  animals,  among  which  the  giraffe,  the 
tiger,  and  ostrich  are  seen  in  perfection.  Ten  miles  higher  up, 
the  French  have  a  small  possession  called  Chandernagore,  which 
they  have  retained  during  all  the  conquests  and  battles  of 
Europe.  It  is  antiquated,  but  prettily  situated,  a  small  town 
without  back  country ;  their  whole  force  consists  of  twenty 
Sepoy  soldiers,  but  the  tricolor  is  floating  from  the  government 
house.  It  is  a  favorite  asylum  for  unfortunate  debtors  and 
persons  of  small  means,  and  is  a  nuisance  in  the  eyes  of  the 


MADEAS.  265 

English,  but  the  rights  of  France  and  treaties  must  be  respected. 
The  Danes  had  a  settlement  near  by,  which  the  English  bought, 
but  "  la  grande  nation''''  declined  selling. 

The  Hindoos  have  a  great  fancy  for  painting  their  faces,  with 
a  streak  down  the  nose  and  across  the  forehead,  as  well  as  lines 
on  the  cheeks,  and  bars  of  a  yellow  color  made  from  powdered 
sandal-wood,  which  looks  like  gold  upon  a  black  ground.  The 
eyes  and  nails  of  many  are  dyed  with  henna ;  a  part  of  the  foot 
is  also  dyed  red.  A  great  variety  of  character  is  to  be  found  in 
the  bazaars,  not  forgetting  the  beggars  with  daubed  faces,  and 
hair  filled  with  ashes ;  they  are  not  in  such  favor  as  the  fat 
Brahmin  bulls  of  the  priests,  which  walk  along  and  eat  where 
they  please,  until  the  poor  benighted  Hindoo  raises  his  hands 
together  to  his  head,  and  cries,  "  Now,  good  bull,  pray  go  eat  at 
some  other  shop."  The  Chinese  population  are  at  full  liberty 
to  enjoy  their  opium,  to  which  they  are  so  much  addicted,  and 
it  is  curious  to  see  the  effect  produced  upon  them  by  the  use  of 
the  drug.  You  will  find  some  fifteen  at  a  time  lying  upon 
couches,  inhaling  the  fumes,  which  seem  to  put  them  in  a  happy 
state,  after  which  they  gradually  recover.  The  opium  leaves  its 
bad  effects  in  prostration  of  the  system,  and  the  habitual  smoker 
may  readily  be  known  from  the  expression  of  the  face  and  eyes. 
The  manufacture  and  sale  of  the  article,  which  is  a  monopoly 
of  the  East  India  Company,  is  its  greatest  source  of  revenue. 


LXYIII. 

,  Steamer  Pekin,  for  Bombay,  Oct.  20,  1851. 

From  Calcutta  I  came  down  to  Madras,  the  capital  of  the 
Presidency  of  the  same  name,  by  the  steamer  Haddington,  on 
her  way  to  Suez.  It  lies  some  six  hundred  miles  south  of 
Calcutta,  and  is  a  city  of  considerable  trade,  notwithstanding  its 
bad  roadstead,  where  the  surf  is  most  formidable.  We  landed 
in  a  masoolah  boat,  of  great  depth  of  hold,  entirely  open,  built 
of  elastic  wood,  the  joints  stuffed  with  oakum  and  sewed 
together,  without  a  nail  in  the  construction,  which  enables  them 
to  spring  and  give  when  they  strike  bottom.  These  boats  are 
worked  by  twelve  boatmen,  who  keep  up  a  singular  chant  or 
howl  as  they  pass  through  the  almost  irresistible  surf. 


266  HINDOO   JUGGLERS. 

I  found  here  a  means  of  floating,  wliicli  surpasses  the  Ceylon 
or  Sandwich  Island  boats,  being  more  primitive  ;  they  are  called 
catamarans,  and  the  natives  manage  them  in  the  most  skilful 
manner.  Imagine  to  yourself  a  small  raft  eight  feet  in  length,  of 
three  logs  tied  together  and  pointed  at  one  end,  which  they  go 
out  upon,  and  which,  when  they  return,  is  untied,  and  dried 
upon  the  shore.  One  or  two  men  are  seen  upon  these  slight 
supports  in  the  heaviest  surfs,  like  black  imps  sitting  crouched 
upon  their  heels  and  making  good  use  of  their  paddles.  Some- 
times they  are  thrown  off  and  hidden  in  the  waves,  but  like 
magic  they  catch  on  again.  One  of  the  great  objects  of  attraction 
for  strangers  is  the  civil  and  military  service  club,  about  three 
miles  from  town,  and  prettily  situated  with  all  the  comforts  and 
luxuries  of  the  east.     The  hotels  of  the  city  are  miserable. 

There  is  but  little  to  interest  the  traveller  at  Madras,  which  is 
on  a  flat  sandy  plain,  with  reddish-colored  soil.  Black  Town, 
the  native  part,  is  poorly  built,  and  the  people  are  a  cringing, 
menial,  lazy  set,  kept  under  great  subjugation  and  treated  as 
brutes  by  the  existing  powers.  The  climate  is  better  than  that 
of  Calcutta,  on  account  of  the  sea  breeze,  and  the  drives  along 
the  sea  beach,  whicli  in  the  suburbs  make  the  place  supportable. 
The  jugglers  and  mountebanks  of  this  country  are  celebrated, 
and  perform  some  remarkable  feats.  We  were  infested  with 
them  in  the  street  in  front  of  our  hotel,  performing  somersets, 
springing  through  hoops,  and  passing  over  swords,  &c.,  without 
the  aid  of  spring  boards  upon  the  solid  earth.  Next  come  the 
snake  charmers,  who  bring  their  snakes  in  baskets,  which  are 
placed  upon  the  ground ;  they  then  play  a  sort  of  bagpipe,  after 
which  they  blow  at  the  snakes  and  play  again,  when  they  open 
the  basket  and  a  large  cobra-de-capello  rises  up  with  a  peculiar 
hood  spread  back  of  the  head,  his  long  neck  arched  like  a 
horse's;  he  attempts  to  strike,  but  the  charmers  know  their 
distance.  We  had  half  a  dozen  snakes  dancing  at  the  same 
time,  around  their  masters,  while  another  group  was  waiting  to 
swallow  swords  and  stones.  In  landing  or  going  out,  self- 
defence  compels  one  to  jump  into  a  buggy  or  palanquin,  as 
these  poor  people  are  very  persevering,  being  better  paid  by 
Griffins,  or  foreigners,  than  by  residents. 

The  Sepoys,  or  native  troops,  appear  well  on  parade  early  in 
the  morning ;  they  are  completely  dressed  in  white  drill,  and 


BOMBAY.  267 

the  officers  in  red  coats  and  white  pantaloons.  The  Madras 
Presidency  has  some  forty-two  thousand  Sepoys  and  eight 
thousand  European  troops,  which  serves  to  keep  all  the  popu- 
lation quiet  between  the  Bengal  and  Bombay  Presidencies. 

Our  steamer  is  slow,  making  only  eight  knots  an  hour  at  the 
top  of  her  speed.  She  has  just  been  caught  by  a  typhoon  in 
the  China  sea,  which  has  swept  away  decks,  yards,  and  spars, 
with  a  loss  of  five  out  of  her  six  boats,  and  will  have  to  go  into 
dock  at  Bombay.  Since  leaving  the  bay  of  Bengal,  and  the  last 
of  the  south-west  monsoons,  we  have  had  quiet  and  beautiful 
weather,  running  up  the  Malabar  coast  of  the  Arabian  sea.  I 
will  finish  this  letter  in  Bombay. 


LXIX. 

Bombay,  Nov.  7,  1851. 
It  was  my  good  fortune  to  arrive  here  the  first  evening  of 
the  new  year,  and  the  commencement  of  the  Hindu  festival 
Tumashee,  in  which  the  Parsees  unite  in  a  general  illumination 
of  the  bazaars  and  private  residences,  with  shade  lamps  of 
variegated  glasses,  and  a  large  display  of  Chinese  and  other 
paintings,  the  shops  being  open  and  occupied  by  the  people  of 
all  races,  Mahrattas,  Parsees,  and  Hindoos  of  every  caste,  but  no 
Moormans,  or  Mussulmans,  the  latter  having  had  a  religious  con- 
test with  the  Parsees,  in  which  several  houses  were  destroyed  and 
pillaged.  The  Mussulmans  being  followers  of  Mahomet,  have  a 
strong  aversion  to  the  Parsees,  or  fire  worshippers,  as  well  as  the 
Hindoos,  or  worshippers  of  idols.  About  five  thousand  of  the 
former  had  collected  at  the  mosques,  and  threatened  to  extermi- 
nate the  Parsees,  causing  great  anxiety.  The  Governor  ordered 
out  a  large  special  constabulary  police,,  and  the  troops  were  in 
readiness  at  given  signals;  the  corners  of  streets  and  public 
places  were  placarded  with  orders  in  different  languages  to  close 
all  spirit  and  opium  shops,  and  restrictions  against  carrying  or 
selling  arms.  The  great  variety  of  picturesque  costumes  during 
this  festival  exceeded  those  of  any  city  I  had  yet  found. 
The  display  of  bandys,  drawn  by  oxen  with  ribbons  of  silver 
and  gold-gilt,  and  filled  with  women  and  children,  literally 
loaded  with  bracelets,  nose  and  ear-rings,  amulets,  &c.,  in  which 


268  THE   PARSEES, 

the  wealth  of  many  consists,  surpassed  what  I  had  seen  at 
Calcutta.  Among  my  introductory  letters  I  had  one  to  a 
Parsee  house,  from  which  I  received  much  civilit}',  and  which 
gave  me  an  opportunity  of  informing  myself  about  this  peculiar 
people,  who  are  called  fire-worshippers,  and  of  whom  so  little  is 
known.  It  is  a  small  sect  in  comparison  with  others,  and  its 
members  are  a  commercial  and  trading  people ;  many  live  in 
good  stjde,  and  drive  fine  equipages,  and  one  of  their  number 
was  knighted  by  the  Queen  for  his  many  noble  acts.  The 
bequests  of  Sir  Jamtsejee  Jejeebhoy  to  many  charitable  institu- 
tions rank  him  as  one  of  the  most  benevolent  individuals  of  the 
age.  The  Parsees  are  the  followers  of  Zoroaster,  who  lived  about 
389  B.C.,  and  who  was  their  lawgiver ;  his  doctrine  teaches  them 
to  believe  in  one  God.  They  worship  no  other  Being  or  symbol 
like  him,  and  believe  in  a  future  state  of  existence. 

They  say  they  take  the  sun,  moon,  and  fire  as  emblems  of 
purity,  and  as  the  most  powerful  and  obvious  evidence  of  the 
supreme  government,  and  in  performing  their  five  prayers  daily 
they  face  any  of  these  mighty  elements.  They  are  the  descend- 
ants of  the  aacient  rulers  of  Persia,  from  which  country  they 
were  driven  away  in  the  seventh  century,  being  unwilling  to 
embrace  Islamism,  when  eleven  thousand  were  compelled  to 
become  Mahometans  within  twenty -four  hours,  under  the  penalty 
of  death.  The  refugees  were  received  by  a  lenient  Hindoo 
prince,  who  gave  them  shelter  and  protection  provided  they 
would  agree  to  certain  stipulations.  First,  To  throw  away  fire- 
arms. Second,  To  lay  aside  the  original  costume  and  adopt  the 
peculiar  one  which  they  now  wear.  Third,  not  to  kill  or  eat  a 
cow,  that  animal  being  one  of  the  favorite  idols  of  the  Hindoos. 
Pressed  by  necessity,  they  adopted  these  and  other  restrictions, 
and  offered  a  solemn  pledge,  to  which  they  still  adhere.  They 
wear  a  white  garment  and  girdle  around  the  waist,  composed  of 
seventy  threads,  about  as  large  as  a  lady's  stay-lace.  These  are 
worn  as  insignia  of  religion.  Children  after  seven  years  old 
wear  it,  and  parents  are  morally  responsible  for  them  till  they 
are  ten  years  of  age.  If  they  die  before  ten,  they  are  considered 
innocent,  and  are  supposed  to  go  to  heaven.  They  feed  and 
clothe  their  poor  in  a  liberal  manner.  They  drink  wine  and  eat 
animal  food,  with  the  exception  of  beef,  veaL,  and  pork ;  have 
one  wife,  and  are  betrothed  in  infancy ;  the  males  marry  at 


PUBLIC   BUILDINGS,    &C.  269 

fourteen,  and  the  females  at  twelve,  and  the  marriage  festival 
and  procession  costs  some  thousands  where  it  can  be  afforded. 

My  Parsee  friend  will  marry  his  son  of  fifteen  to  his  bride  of 
twelve  in  a  few  months.  They  cannot  eat  with  us  or  drink  out 
of  the  same  vessel  that  we  do.  I  accept  civilities  among  the 
Parsees,  but  we  eat  at  separate  tables,  and  I  have  noticed  among 
the  most  devoted  a  prayer  murmured  over  me,  and  a  glance  of 
kindness.  The  Hindoos  cannot  assign  any  reason  why  the  body 
should  be  burned,  the  Mahometan  why  it  should  be  interred, 
nor  the  Parsee  why  it  should  be  placed  in  a  circular,  high-walled, 
amphitheatrical  cemetery,  where  the  bodies  of  men,  women,  and 
children  are  placed  in  separate  exposures  for  decay,  and  destruc- 
tion by  birds  of  prey ;  and  they  deny  the  assertion  made  by  their 
enemies  that  the  condition  of  future  existence  is  denoted  by  the 
part  of  the  body  first  attacked  by  the  birds.  I  saw  one  public 
and  one  private  cemetery  of  the  kind  on  high  hills ;  no  one  was 
permitted  to  enter.  The  position  of  Bombay,  in  Lat.  18° 
north,  at  nearly  the  head  of  the  Indian  Ocean,  with  a  good 
harbor  and  sea-breezes,  with  its  suburbs  and  fine  dwellings,  and 
forests  of  cocoa  and  date  trees  along  good  drives,  makes  it  more 
agreeable  and  less  hot  then  Calcutta.  Withip  the  inclosure  of 
the  old  fortified  town  stands  the  arsenal,  mint,  cathedral,  and 
other  public  edifices.  I  attended  the  cathedral  last  Sunday,  but 
found  few  worship^^ers,  although  every  appliance  for  comfort 
and  ease.  I  counted  fourteen  long  punkahs  suspended  from 
the  ceiling,  and  as  many  men  emploj^ed  outside  pulling  the 
cords.  Open  rail  pews,  bamboo  seats  with  arms,  marble  pave- 
ment, and  a  free  circulation  of  air,  but  poor  preaching  and  bad 
delivery,  had  driven  the  congregation  away.  The  dock -yard 
here  is  the  finest  in  the  East,  and  is  resorted  to  by  all  vessels  for 
repairs'  I  noticed  in  it  a  frigate  of  the  Imaum  of  Muscat,  built 
of  teak  thirty  years  old.  The  mint  for  coining — the  chief  coins 
are  rupees,  nearly  the  size  of  half-dollars — is  admirablv  well 
arranged,  and  would  do  credit  to  any  country.  They  had  nine 
presses  at  work,  and  were  turning  off  one  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  daily,  out  of  the  sycee  silver,  which  comes  from  China, 
in  payment  for  opium. 

Having  visited  the  hospital  and  benevolent  institutions,  to 
see  what  was  doing  for  humanity  in  this  part  of  the  world,  I 
was  induced   to  visit  the  most  extraordinary  institution  I  had 


270  THE   CAVE   OF   ELEPHANTS. 

ever  heard  of:  a  hospital  for  diseased  animals,  established  hy 
the  Parsees.  I  found  there  not  only  hundreds  of  horses,  oxen, 
buffaloes,  goats,  and  other  cattle,  but  dogs  and  cats,  which  are 
never  killed,  but  are  allowed  to  enter  the  hospital  gratis,  and 
are  kept  until  they  recover  or  die.  The  great  curiosity  is  the 
caves  of  elephants,  on  an  island  opposite  Bombay.  Taking 
supplies,  we  started  early,  in  a  covered  boat;  the  tide  being 
down,  we  were  carried  a  long  distance  on  men's  shoulders,  to 
the  shore,  and  around  the  mountain  side  through  the  trees  to 
the  bungalow  of  the  Sepoy  guard,  and  then  entered  the  cave 
to  see  the  Hindoo  idols.  The  entrance  is  fifty- three  feet  wide, 
the  height  of  the  ceiling  eighteen  feet,  and  the  depth  one 
hundred  and  forty-three  feet ;  it  is  nearly  as  wide  as  deep,  and 
is  supported  by  massive  pillars,  carved  out  of  solid  dark  trap 
rock. 

In  the  recess  in  the  rear  is  seen  a  gigantic  tri -formed  god. 
Brahma  is  in  the  middle  as  creator,  with  placid  face  and  jewelled 
cap.  Vishnu,  the  presiding  deity,  is  represented  with  a  beauti- 
ful face,  and  with  the  sacred  lotus  flower  in  his  hand.  Siva, 
who  fills  up  the  other  side  of  the  tri-formed  gods,  holds  a  cobra 
serpent ;  he  frowns,  being  the  destroyer.  From  the  chin  to  the 
crown  of  the  head  is  six  feet,  the  caps  are  three  feet  more. 
There  are  steps  behind  the  bust  where  a  Bramin  might  have 
hidden  for  priestly  imposition.  The  courts  of  death  are  at  the 
right  and  left,  as  are  also  pilasters  and  figures  fourteen  feet  high. 
There  are  various  chambers  and  large  colossal  figures  of  divini- 
ties within  the  cave,  which  to  me  were  interesting,  being  of  a 
different  style  of  sculpture  from  either  the  Egyptian  or  Chinese 
idols,  and  were  once  very  beautifml,  though  they  have  been 
much  defaced  by  the  Portuguese  in  the  early  possession  of  the 
country.  A  few  miles  from  town,  on  Malabar  Point,  is  the 
place  of  pilgrimage  for  the  Hindoos.  It  is  a  village  with  a 
community  of  some  five  hundred  persons  or  more,  subsisting 
upon  charity.  It  is  situated  upon  the  side  hill,  inclosed  by 
walls,  and  descending  towards  the  ocean,  with  a  water-tank,  or 
large  reservoir,  some  hundred  feet  long  and  square,  and  about 
twenty  ghauts  or  stone  platforms,  to  descend,  and  is  surrounded 
with  houses  and  temples.  The  front  verandas  are  filled  with 
bells  of  all  sizes,  and  the  idols  of  various  deities.  The  half- 
naked  priests,   with  painted  faces  and  long  hair  and  beards, 


ADEN.  271 

were   sitting  in   groups,    quarrelling  for   the   division   of   the 
spoils, 

I  had  a  good  opportunity  of  seeing  the  mode  of  worship  here, 
notwithstanding  that  the  jealousy  of  the  people  allowed  me  to 
go  no  further  than  the  threshold.  One  family  came  covered 
with  jewelry,  and  had  their  own  priest.  Vessels  filled  witli 
water  were  suspended  over  the  stone  of  fertility,  which  con- 
stantly drips  upon  the  flowers  placed  upon  it ;  and  the  devotees 
touched  each  other's  hands,  and  went  through  various  acts  of 
devotion  before  the  idols  of  the  five  different  gods,  while  offer- 
ings were  made. 


LXX. 

Alexandria,  Egypt,  Nov,  24,   1851. 

I  HAVE  felt  more  like  writing  you  since  I  left  Bombay,  where 
I  confidently  expected  advices  from  friends,  which  I  have  been 
deprived  of  for  some  months ;  and  having  heard  indirectly, 
without  particulars,  of  the  death  of  a  beloved  sister,  I  was 
anxious  to  arrive  at  this  place,  where  I  am  put  in  possession  of 
that  which  is  so  highly  valued  by  the  traveller — letters  from 
home.  From  Bombay  I  embarked  with  the  Achilles  down  the 
Indian  Ocean  to  Aden,  some  one  thousand  six  hundred  and 
forty  miles,  situated  near  the  entrance  of  the  Straits  of  Babel- 
mandel,  and  recognised  in  her  an  old  ,  acquaintance,  having 
made  a  passage  by  her  from  Glasgow  to  Liverpool,  some  years 
since. 

Aden  is  the  coal  depot  of  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Com- 
pany's line  of  steamers,  and  here  we  were  obliged  to  wait  during 
three  days  for  the  arrival  of  the  steamer  Erin,  which  replaced 
the  Precursor,  that  had  been  caught  in  a  violent  hurricane  and 
disabled,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  below  Calcutta,  The  Erin 
is  the  steamer  that  sunk  the  Pasha,  by  collision  off  the  coast  of 
Malabar,  some  time  ago.  I  feel  thankful  in  having  escaped 
typhoons,  hurricanes,  and  accidents,  of  which  many  have  occur- 
red while  I  have  been  in  the  East,  and  hope  to  be  favored  for 
the  future  in  my  peregrinations,  until  I  once  more  return  to  my 
friends  and  native  land.  Aden  is  a  strongly  fortified  place, 
called  the  "  Gibraltar  of  the  East."     It  was  constructed  by  the 


272  THE   ISTHMUS  OF  SUEZ. 

East  India  Company,  in  order  to  resist  the  encroachments  of  the 
Arabs,  and  is  situated  in  a  desert  country,  without  a  sign  of 
vegetation,  a  portion  of  it  being  in  an  extinct  volcano.  It  is 
one  of  the  most  disagreeable  spots  in  the  world  for  a  long 
sojourn,  with  no  attractions  aside  from  the  camp,  and  all  neces- 
saries come  from  abroad  when  the  Arabs  do  not  choose  to 
supply  them.  The  heat  at  times  has  been  almost  insupportable ; 
the  Eed  Sea  is  considered  the  Tophet  of  the  East  by  travellers. 
Not  unfrequently  in  summer,  passengers  become  perfectly 
exhausted,  and  some  sudden  deaths  occur.  The  shores  in  gene- 
ral are  barren  and  arid,  with  high  volcanic  mountains  at  inter- 
vals, with  exceptions,  of  course,  as  we  sighted  Mocha,  which  is 
forty  miles  above  the  entrance  of  the  Straits,  and  is  celebrated 
for  its  choice  coffee.  We  passed  the  usual  landing-place  for 
Mahometans  proceeding  to  Mecca.  We  had  about  forty  passen- 
gers from  Bombay,  and  northern  India,  mostly  officers  on  leave, 
or  retired  pensioners ;  among  the  number  were  several  ladies, 
and  twelve  children,  going  home  to  be  educated,  so  we  were  not 
at  a  loss  for  juvenile  music.  We  made  the  passage  up  the  Bed 
Sea  in  five  days  and  a  half,  and  found,  as  we  advanced  towards 
Suez,  that  the  weather  became  cooler. 

Mount  Sinai  and  the  localities  designated  as  the  spots  where 
Moses  and  the  Israelitish  army  crossed,  were  pointed  out  and 
commented  upon.  As  we  approached  Suez  the  sea  narrows,  and 
a  place  some  thirty  miles  below,  where  the  water  is  thirty 
fathoms,  or  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet  in  depth,  is  said  by  the 
Arabs  to  be  that  where  Moses  crossed.  It  is  twenty  miles  wide, 
and  the  rise  and  fall  of  tide  is  very  small ;  so  that  the  most 
sceptical  must  allow  the  crossing  to  be  quite  as  miraculous  as 
the  sustaining  of  vast  bodies  of  people  in  these  arid  plains  and 
mountains  for  a  long  sojourn.  The  arrangements  are  now  very 
perfect  in  crossing  the  isthmus,  and  it  scarcely  merits  the  name 
of  desert  in  comparison  with  the  fifteen  days'  journey  across  the 
Arabian  sands  to  Palestine,  during  my  former  travels  in  the 
East. 

The  Pasha  deserves  great  credit  for  his  transit  accommoda- 
tions. At  Suez,  a  dirty  village  upon  a  sandy  plain,  is  a  large 
stone  hotel,  and  in  approaching  the  town  a  small  steamer  meets 
and  conducts  you  to  the  wharf,  where  camels  in  large  numbers 
are  ready  to  convey  luggage  and  cargo  across  to  Cairo,  a  dis- 


GRAND   CAIRO.  273 

tance  of  eighty-five  miles.  They  are  started  off,  and  passing  us, 
we  are  sent  in  vans  with  two  high  wheels,  and  a  double  shaft 
for  two  horses  or  mules,  with  a  pair  of  leaders.  These  vans 
contain  six  persons  and  their  luggages,  and  are  changed  every 
five  miles.  There  are  four  places  for  supplies  on  the  desert, 
where  most  articles  can  be  obtained  desirable  for  comfort,  includ- 
ing couches  to  repose  upon  during  the  halt.  I  found  them  so 
much  improved  since  I  was  last  in  Egypt,  that  I  was  agreeably 
disappointed.  The  road  is  beaten  by  constant  travel,  except  that 
there  is  heavy  sand  in  some  places.  The  greatest  objections  are 
the  rays  of  the  sun,  and  the  fiery  sand,  which  affect  the  eyes ; 
but  it  is  of  short  continuance,  as  we  cross  in  sixteen  hours.  The 
supply  of  water,  and,  indeed,  every  trifling  article,  must  be  car- 
ried on  the  backs  of  camels.  The  transit  across  the  isthmus 
and  down  the  Nile  from  Grand  Cairo  to>  the  canal  at  Atfeh  to 
Alexandria,  is  in  the  Pasha's  name  ;  and  arrangements  are  being, 
made  for  the  construction  of  a  railway  between  the  first  and  last 
named  cities. 

At  Grand  Cairo  I  found  that  great  changes  had  taken  place 
since  I  last  visited  it,  not  only  in  the  hotels,  but 'in  the  general 
appearance  of  the  city.  The  most  beautiful  edifice^  or  monu- 
ment, is  the  new  alabaster  mosque,  with  its  nobly  gilded  domes 
and  interior  decorations,  its  lofty  minaret  towering  above  the 
citadel,  and  inclosing  a  catafalque  in  one  corner,  with  the 
remains  of  Mehemet  Ali,  who  had  mnssacred  the  Mamelukes 
at  a  spot  hard  by,  one  only  escaping  by  a  fearful  leap,  killing 
his  horse  under  him.  I  once  described  to  you  my  visit  to,  and 
reception  by,  this  extraordinary  man,  whose  remains  I  am  now 
gazing  upon,,  while  a  thousand  reflections  cross  my  mind. 
Turning  my  eyes  from'  the  spot,  there  stood  in  the  distance  the 
almost  imperishable  pyramids,  and  the  Nile,  flowing  without 
change,  bathing  the  land  of  Goshen  as  in  days  gone  by.  The 
bazaars  were  filled  as  usual  with  an  immense  multitude  of  men, 
veiled  women,  a.nd  children,  and  donkeys,  and  camels.  The 
streets  being  very  narrow,,  our  carriage  was  preceded  by  a  run- 
ner, cracking  his  heavy  whip  to  clear  the  passages.  I  find  small, 
but  not  uncomfortable  steamers  now  coming  from  Cairo  to  Atfeh, 
the  termination  of  the  Mahmoud  canal,  making  with  the  current 
some  twelve  miles  per  hour  ;  also  barges  for  passengers,  towed  by 
small  steamers  on  the  canal,,  with  very  fair  living  accommoda- 

18 


274  MALTA. 

tions.  Alexandria  has  become  more  like  a  European  city  ;  the 
suburbs  near  the  banks  of  the  canal  are  occupied  with  the  resi- 
dences of  foreigners,  and  the  vicinity  of  the  Obelisk,  or  Cleopatra's 
needle,  and  Pompey's  pillar,  looks  less  deserted  than  formerly. 


LXXI. 

Steamer  Severn,  Island  of  Teneriffe,  Dec.  22,  1851. 

Fbom  Alexandria,  Egypt,  I  embarked  on  board  of  the 
steamer  for  Malta,  with  the  privilege  of  continuing  to  Gibraltar 
or  Lisbon,  to  await  the  arrival  of  the  steamer  from  England,  on 
her  way  to  South  America.  The  weather  was  heavy  and  bois- 
terous for  the  first  two  days,  which  caused  some  delay,  and 
required  four  and  a  half  days  to  make  the  passage  of  eight  hun- 
dred miles  to  Malta. 

Our  leisure  time  was  passed  in  rowing  about  the  harbor, 
•viewing  the  English  fleet ;  and  I  amused  myself  in  the  Lazaretto 
m  visiti-ng  my  old  quarters  where  I  was  confined  in  quarantine 
twenty-one  days,  coming  from  Egypt  during  the  prevalence  of 
the  plague.  The  fortifications  are  very  strong,  and  the  island  is 
an  agreeable  place  for  sojourn  in  the  winter ;  the  rides  to  the 
bay  where  St.  Paul  was  shipwrecked  and  landed,  and  where  a 
chapel  is  erected  on  the  spot ;  the  so  called  Grotto  of  Calypso ; 
the  Church  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John;  the  ancient  catacombs; 
and  the  general  drives  and  views,  make  it  well  worth  tarrying  at.; 
but  having  been  all  over  the  ground,  there  was  no  incentive  to 
remain,  so  we  proceeded  to  Gibraltar,  one  thousand  miles  further, 
with  beautifully  fine  weather,  coasting  along  the  bay  of  Tunis, 
with  Sicily  and  Algiers  in  view,  and  then  branched  off  to  the 
opposite  coast  of  Spain,  passing  close  to  the  bay  of  Malaga, 
with  white-capped  mountains  in  the  distance,  and  the  famous 
quicksilver  mines  of  Adva  at  their  base,  until  we  approached 
the  frowning  rock  of  Gibraltar. 

Those  of  our  passengers  who  had  never  passed  along  the 
Mediterranean,  enjoyed  all  the  sights  and  various  changing 
views ;  T,  however,  could  not  feel  the  same  interest,  except  in  the 
way  of  reminiscences  of  past  scenes.  Gibraltar,  as  you  are 
aware,  is  considered  invulnerable;  its  strength  surpasses  any 
fortification  in  the  world,  and  as  long  as  Great  Britain  retains 


LISBON".  27o 

her  present  ascendency,  it  would  be  useless  to  attempt  its  capture, 
as  starvation  of  the  garrison  would  be  the  only  successful  artifice. 
We  were  informed  here  that  the  French  had  just  bombarded 
Tangier,  on  the  opposite  coast  of  Morocco,  and  knocked  down 
the  town  about  the  ears  of  the  Moors.  On  the  opposite  side  of 
the  straits  is  Ceuta,  a  strongly  garrisoned  fortress  belonging  to 
the  Spaniards ;  the  straits  here  are  seventy-two  miles  wide.  The 
current  was  setting  into  them  at  the  rate  of  two  miles  per  hour, 
and  always  running  in  the  same  direction.  The  nearest  point  to 
the  African  coast  is  St.  Cruzes,  towards  Tarifa  Light,  on  the 
European  side  ;  it  is  seven  miles  wide. 

Gibraltar  is  considerably  improved,  many  new  buildings 
having  been  erected,  but  its  contraband  trade  with  the  south  of 
Spain  is  now  much  reduced,  and  the  people  complain  of  hard 
times.  Trafalgar  Bay,  famous  for  the  victory  and  death  of  Lord 
Nelson,  lies  only  a  short  distance  north.  I  don't  recollect,  while 
travelling  in  the  beautiful  country  of  Malaga,  Grenada,  Seville, 
and  Cadiz,  to  have  said  anything  of  Portugal,  to  which  my 
travels  were  also  extended,  at  that  time,  but  at  the  risk  of 
repetition  I  must  remark  that  Lisbon  is  prettily  situated  on  the 
Douro,  about  twelve  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  were  it  not  for 
the  dark  aspect  of  the  city,  the  effect  of  climate  upon  the  sand- 
stone, it  would  show  to  great  advantage,  situated  as  it  is  upon  an 
undulating  surface,  with  portions  of  its  pinnacles  looking  like  a 
tower  of  stairs.  It  is  much  cleaner  than  formerlj^,  filthy  streets 
then  being  its  chief  characteristic.  The  trade  of  Portugal  has 
declined,  and  the  government  and  people  have  become  more  and 
more  impoverished.  They  have  had  no  rain  since  last  May, 
and  the  country  is  suffering.  Processions  were  being  held  from 
the  churches  to  invoke  the  Virgin  for  refreshing  and  copious 
supplies  of  the  vivifying  element.  One  of  the  most  extraordinary 
mosaic  pictures  of  large  size  is  the  Annunciation  of  the  angel  to 
the  Virgin  Mary ;  it  is  here  in  one  of  the  churches,  and  is  said 
to  have  cost  a  million  of  dollars.  The  stone  aqueduct  which 
rests  upon  several  ties  of  arches,  and  supplies  the  city  with 
water,  is  considered  a  stupendous  work ;  it  is  much  shattered  by 
a  former  earthquake.  The  promenades  and  gardens  are  tolerable, 
as  are  also  the  quays  and  public  squares,  but  the  port  seems 
deserted  by  merchant  vessels.  A  part  of  the  English  fleet  lay 
in  the  river,  and  among  the  number  was  one  which,  although 


276  MADEIRA. 

small  in  comparison  with  the  other  craft,  had  given  evidence  of 
her  sailing  qualities  to  the  world,  and  all  eyes  were  directed  to 
her.     It  was  the  little,  low,  raking-masted  yacht,  America. 

I  found  myself  once  again  on  board  the  ship  Severn,  having 
made  a  passage  with  her  in  the  West  Indies,  under  the  same 
commander,  three  years  since.  We  had  a  mixed  company  of 
passengers,  consisting  of  duchesses,  countesses,  not  forgetting 
Lady  Wortley,  who  visited  the  United  States  some  time  since, 
military  and  civil  officers,  South  American  Spaniards,  Portuguese 
Brazilians,  Frenchmen,  Germans,  and  English,  some  twenty  of 
whom  we  left  at  Madeira  for  the  benefit  of  their  health ;  the  rest 
will  continue  to  Teneriffe,  Cape  de  Verde,  Pernambuco,  Bahia, 
Eio  Janeiro,  &c.,  where  we  land  and  take  supplies  of  coal.  The 
rigid  formality  of  strict  English  society  is  confounded  with  the 
life  and  liberty  of  the  different  races  thrown  together,  and  five 
languages  are  continually  heard  at  table. 

Madeira  is  a  pretty  and  picturesque  island.  Its  vineyards, 
which  are  its  only  resource,  have  acquired  for  it  a  lasting  name ; 
its  climate  is  renowned,  and  is  much  resorted  to,  particularly  by 
English  invalids,  the  number  of  whom  amounts  ordinarily  to 
about  three  hundred,  who  are  a  source  of  great  profit  to  the  poor 
people,  subjected  to  Portuguese  rule.  The  harbor  of  Funchal  is 
an  open  roadstead,  and  as  there  was  a  heavy  rolling  sea  the 
night  before  our  arrival,  the  landing  was  bad,  especially  for 
ladies,  but  once  ashore,  horses  and  palanquins  were  at  command. 
The  latter  are  so  unlike  the  conveyances  that  bear  the  same  name 
in  the  East  Indies,  that  I  must  describe  them.  They  are  in  the 
form  of  colossal  shoes  with  the  front  part  cut  or  pared  down  one- 
half,  the  heel  being  a  support  for  the  back,  as  you  sit  upon 
cushions  with  head  erect ;  they  are  supported  by  rods  attached 
to  the  pole,  each  end  of  which  rests  on  the  shoulders  of  a  man, 
and  in  that  way  you  are  carried  up  and  down  hill,  having  a  sort 
of  top  to  protect  you  from  the  sun's  rays. 

Madeira  lies  two  days  south  from  Lisbon,  and  Teneriflfe  one 
day  and  a  half  from  Madeira.  There  are  nine  islands  in  the 
group ;,  the  people  are  generally  poor.  The  chief  towB  is  Santa 
Cruz ;  it  is  pretty  well  built,  and  streets  are  clean ;  wine  is  its 
chief  means  of  supjDort.  There  are  some  fine  views  all  through 
the  islaads ;  the  peak  of  Teneriffe  is  the  most  remarkable, 
towering  some  twelve  thousand  feet  high,  and  covered  with  snow. . 


ST.   VINCENT.  277 


18  5  2. 
LXXIL 

Bahia,  Brazil,  Jan.  2,  1852. 

From  tlie  island  of  Teneriffe,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Atlantic,  we  proceeded  south  to  the  Cape  Verde  islands,  and 
stopped  one  day  to  receive  coal  at  St.  Vincent,  but  had  difficulty 
in  getting  a  supply,  as  fever  and  starvation  had  destroyed  one 
hundred  and  fifty  out  of  the  small  population  of  six  hundred, 
and  laborers  were  procured  from  the  island  of  St.  Antonio,  and 
fed  and  kept  by  the  English  consul,  who  is  the  agent  of  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope  Steam  Company.  Several  coal-vessels  were 
waiting  impatiently  to  be  discharged.  A  small  American  whaler 
had  lost  her  mate,  and  five  of  her  crew,  and  the  captain  was  not 
expected  to  survive.  We  were  besieged  for  medicines,  which 
we  gave  as  liberally  as  we  could,  and  also  landed  the  contribu- 
tions of  flour,  corn,  &c.,  from  Madeira.  Our  passengers  were 
much  alarmed,  particularly  the  Brazilians,  who  imagined  that 
they  inhaled  the  pestilence  with  every  breath,  and  brought  forth 
large  supplies  of  cologne  and  volatile  salts.  The  purser,  doctor, 
and  myself  were  the  only  persons  who  landed,  and  we  found  the 
people  dying  from  sheer  exhaustion ;  many  would  not  take  the 
medicines  which  we  offered  them.  Such  squalid  wretchedness  I 
hope  never  to  witness  again.  We  had  constant  trade- winds  from 
the  N.  E.  for  some  days,  with  warm,  delightful  weather,  and 
when  we  crossed  the  line,  the  sailors,  not  having  forgotten  the 
former  visits  of  Neptune,  amused  themselves  and  the  passengers, 
by  dressing  in  couples,  one  on  all  fours  under  a  sack,  imitating  a 
donkey,  with  long  ears  and  false  tail,  mounted  by  a  third,  and 
beaten  with,  sticks  by  the  whole  cavalcade. 

The  following  day  these  jolly  fellows  listened  with  attention 
to  the  prayers  and  services  of  the  Church  of  England,  which 
were  read  by  the  officers.  The  first  land  we  sighted  towards  the 
American  coast,  was  the  island  of  Fernando  Norona,  some  three 


278  PERNAMBUCO. 

degrees  south  of  tlie  moutli  of  the  river  Amazon  ;  we  ran  close 
"under  the  rocky  shore.  It  is  used  by  the  Brazilians  for  transporta- 
tion of  prisoners,  and  rarely  visited.  Whaling  vessels  sometimes 
touch,  and  for  supplies  of  cattle  and  vegetables.  The  scenery 
of  the  island  appeared  enchanting.  We  arrived  at  Pernambuco, 
Lat.  8°  south,  sixteen  hundred  miles  from  Cape  Yerde,  in  advance 
of  the  usual  time,  which  gave  us  a  good  opportunity  of  seeing 
the  city,  and  riding  several  miles  in  the  country.  The  view 
from  the  steamer,  the  natural  reef  of  coral  rocks,  fifteen  miles  in 
len2;th,  forming  the  harbor ;  the  town  of  Olinda  on  the  hill  to 
the  north,  with  its  white  houses  amid  groves  of  green  cocoa-nut 
trees,  strike  the  beholder  as  exceedingly  beautiful,  and  I  found 
the  town  more  cleanly  than  I  expected,  as  the  Brazilians,  like 
their  predecessors,  the  Portuguese,  are  renowned  for  filth.  The 
city  is  prettily  situated  on  three  islands  connected  by  bridges ;  it 
has  some  nine  thousand  population,  one-third  whites  and  two- 
thirds  slaves ;  the  buildings  are  high  and  well-constructed,  but 
the  interiors  are  poorly  furnished  ;  the  narrow  streets  are  offen- 
sive, but  those  of  tolerable  width  are  in  better  order.  We  found 
immense  numbers  of  mules  and  horses,  which  come  long  distances 
from  the  interior,  laden  with  cotton  and  sugar.  The  foreign 
population  is  small,  some  five  hundred  in  all,  French,  English, 
and  Germans ;  the  latter  predominate  in  the  Brazils,  as  several 
colonies  of  them  have  been  formed  under  the  auspices  of  govern- 
ment. Of  Americans  there  are  only  eight  or  ten ;  their  numbers 
are  usually  small,  but  they  are  to  be  found  at  all  commercial 
points  of  importance,  and  to  them  we  are  indebted  for  the  great 
luxury  of  ice,  which  the  people  here  had  been  deprived  of  for  a 
long  time ;  we  could  also  obtain  supplies  of  fruit. 

We  have  some  disaffection  on  board  among  passengers  of 
different  races  and  tastes,  as  to  the  supplies,  and  a  committee 
was  formed  to  wait  upon  the  commander,  who  is  a  worthy  and 
excellent  person.  But  the  system  of  the  West  India  and  South 
American  Steam  Co,  which  allows  the  captain  equal  to  one 
dollar  and  eighty-seven  and  a  half  cents  per  day  per  head,  wines, 
sodas,  and  other  refreshments  being  ticketed,  and  settled  for 
weekly,  is  found  obnoxious  by  many  passengers,  who  pay 
monopoly  fares,  and  is  entirely  different  from  the  liberality 
displayed  by  the  Peninsula  and  Oriental  Company,  who, 
notwithstanding  the  mail  contract  and  monopoly  systems,  are 


WAR  DECLARED.  279 

much  more  liberal  in  their  provisions  and  accommodations.  But 
with  the  increase  of  American  steamers,  their  influence  will 
be  felt,  not  only  in  this  respect,  but  more  particularly  in  point 
of  speed.  The  English  mail  contract  throughout  the  East 
exacts  only  eight  knots  running  time,  and  the  West  India  and 
South  America  nine  knots  per  hour,  which  is  slow  work  for  one 
accustomed  to  American  steamers.  Necessity  is  driving  the 
English  to  a  higher  rate  of  speed,  and  the  company  is  now 
constructing  new  and  faster  boats  to  run  to  Chagres,  in  order  to 
prevent  the  tide  of  travel  from  setting  to  New  York.  "We 
f)und  two  American  whalers  in  quarantine  at  Pernambuco, 
which  had  touched  at  St.  Vincent,  and  had  some  fever  on  board; 
we  had  obtained  a  clean  bill  of  health,  and  having  no  sickness, 
we  were  permitted  to  pass.  It  was  a  great  relief  to  get  a  drive 
of  six  miles,  in  the  country  where  nature  appears  so  beautiful 
even  during  the  heat  of  this,  their  summer,  with  the  thermome- 
ter at  eighty-live,  passing  through  groves  of  cocoas,  palms,  bread- 
fruits, tamarinds,  oranges,  and  other  tropical  trees,  with  melons 
and  other  fruits  to  satisfy  thirst.  We  tirst  learned  here  that 
war  had  been  actually  declared  between  Brazil  and  Buenos 
Ayres,  and  that  the  government  had  granted  a  loan  and  part  of 
the  fleet  to  blockade  the  port  of  the  latter,  while  the  Banda 
Oriental  attack  with  the  land  forces.  The  son  of  Gen.  Manzilla, 
and  nephew  of  Rosas,  the  Dictator  of  the  Argentine  republic,  is 
a  fellow  passenger ;  he  promised  to  accompany  me  in  the  interior 
of  Buenos  Ayres,  but  the  shock  is  rather  astounding,  and  we 
can  only  learn  the  facts  at  Rio  Janeiro. 

The  entrance  to  Bahia,  or  Bay  of  All  Saints,  is  really  beau- 
tiful ;  it  lies  four  hundred  miles  south  of  Pernambuco,  and  the 
entrance  is  seven  miles  broad  ;  its  fine  harbor  is  protected  from 
all  winds,  and  the  rich  country  about  it  receives  the  waters  of 
several  small  rivers.  Americus  Vespucius  discovered  it  in 
1503,  under  the  patronage  of  the  King  of  Portugal,  and  his 
carrying  home  a  species  of  dye-wood,  which,  when  cut,  resembled 
coals  of  fire,  gave  Brazil  its  name,  from  Brazas,  or  coals. 
Bahia  owes  its  foundation  to  the  fact  of  the  captain  of  a  ship- 
wrecked vessel  in  1510  having  his  life  spared  by  the  Indians, 
after  most  of  the  crew  were  killed.  The  town  is  divided  into 
two  parts,  the  Praya,  or  Citada  Baxa,  under  the  hill,  and  Citada 
Alta,    above,    which   appears   quite   antique.     The   descent  is 


280  BAHIA. 

difficult,  but  by  well  paved  roads  and  cadeiras  or  ornamented 
chairs  supported  by  two  negroes,  which  are  in  general  use,  it 
is  quite  practicable.  The  streets  are  clean,  as  Yellow  Jack  has 
improved  the  habits  of  the  filthy  Portuguese.  New  Year's  day 
is  kept  here  as  holiday,  and  our  passengers  enjoyed  themselves 
in  visiting  the  public  gardens  and  riding  about  the  suburbs, 
while  a  party  of  sixteen  dined  together  at  the  hotel  on  the 
summit  of  the  hill,  with  a  fine  view  of  this  magnificent  bay, 
which  in  some  respects  recalls  the  harbor  and  site  of  Naples  in 
miniature.  The  hedges  are  of  lime  trees ;  grapes  are  in  season, 
bananas  and  melons  abound ;  the  seedless  orange  here  is  superior 
to  that  of  any  other  part  of  the  world.  The  public  garden  is 
situated  on  the  boldest  and  most  commanding  height  of  the  old 
town,  one  side  looking  upon  the  ocean,  and  the  other  upon  the 
bay,  with  iron  railings  to  prevent  falling  down  the  precipice. 
The  large  Jaca  tree  which  furnishes  fruit  larger  than  the 
cocoa,  and  affords  fine  shade,  is  found  here.  Formerly  the 
privilege  of  the  whale  fishery  was  sold  for  a  considerable  sum, 
but  at  present  it  is  reduced.  The  island  of  Itaporica,  in  the 
bay,  has  some  oil  establishments,  and  whales  are  occasionally 
killed;  the  flesh  is  much  admired  by  the  negroes,  and  is  found 
in  the  market  for  sale.  There  are  extensive  plantations  in  the 
country,  with  two  or  three  hundred  slaves,  and  large  quantities 
of  sugar,  cotton,  and  tobacco  are  produced.  It  is  the  Havana  of 
Brazil  for  the  manufacture  of  cigars.  Large  quantities  of 
American  flour  are  imported,  but  the  food  of  the  common  people 
is  farina  made  from  the  root  of  the  mandioca.  There  is  a  fine 
race  of  negroes  here,  and  they  appear  better  dressed  than  I  had 
expected  to  find  them ;  but  from  what  I  can  learn,  their  condi- 
tion will  not  compare  favorably  with  the  negroes  of  our  Southern 
States,  whose  enhanced  value  in  the  absence  of  the  slave-trade 
iuduces  kind  treatment  aside  from  motives  of  humanity. 


LXXIII. 

Rio  Janeiro,  Brazil,  Jati.  13,  1852. 
From  Bahia,  I  came  down  by  steamer,  a  distance  of  seven 
hundred   and  twenty  miles,  under  the  most  favorable  circum- 
stances, in  three  days,  making  the  moderate  average  of  ten  miles 


EIO   JANEIRO.  281 

per  hour.  The  entrance  or  mouth  of  the  harbor  lies  between 
two  small  islands,  and  is  one  mile  wide  and  skirted  on  eacli  side 
bj  immense  masses  of  solid  rock,  six  hundred  feet  high,  if  not 
higher;  the  hills  are  steep  and  fortified.  The  view  of  this 
splendid  harbor  is  majestically  grand,  increasing  in  size  to  eight 
or  ten  miles,  and  in  this  gulf  are  many  small  islands  distributed 
about  and  occupied  by  small  villages:  the  sheet  of  water  is 
fringed  with  green  verdure,  bright  villas,  and  immense  high 
craggy  peaks  of  mountains,  forming  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
pictures.  The  city  lies  low  in  a  valley,  and  appears  from  an 
elevated  spot  of  a  semicircular  form ;  the  streets  run  at  right 
angles,  with  public  squares  without  trees,  but  as  the  Brazilians 
and  Portuguese  idolize  filth,  don't  expect  much  in  the  way  of 
cleanliness.  The  hotels  are  vile  for  a  city  of  three  hundred 
thousand  people,  even  if  one-half  are  negroes ;  in  this  warm 
climate,  with  the  thermometer  in  the  month  of  January  at 
92°,  you  can  well  imagine  the  annoyance  from  vermin  in  badly 
conducted  dens.  I  was  obliged  to  fight  a  bloody  battle  the  first 
night  with  the  bugs,  who  disputed  possession,  and  the  following 
morning  I  abandoned  my  quarters  for  better  ones.  There  is 
a  considerable  French  population  here,  and  one  street  is  supplied 
with  every  variety  of  Parisian  fancy  goods,  so  much  so  that  one 
for  the  moment  would  almost  imagine  himself  in  Paris ;  but  he 
would  soon  be  undeceived  on  demanding  prices,  and  finding  them 
double  or  treble  what  they  are  in  France,  the  Brazilian  duties 
being  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  per  cent,  on  many  articles, 
which  offers  a  premium  for  smuggling.  It  is  said  the  customs 
are  here  ten  million  dollars,  but  the  Emperor  receives  four 
hundred  thousand  per  annum,  and  has  now  a  war  on  hand  with 
Buenos  Ayres,  and  a  force  of  from  thirty  to  forty  thousand  men 
to  be  kept  up.  As  some  one  must  pay  for  this,  it  falls  upon  the 
consumers,  and  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  expect  to  reside 
here,  I  will  state  that  the  expenses  and  luxuries  of  life,  inclusive 
of  carriage  hire,  exceed  those  of  Calcutta  or  London.  The 
country  is  rich  and  fertile  ;  sugar,  coffee,  and  hides  enter  largely 
in  the  exports.  Our  people  know  how  to  appreciate  Rio  coffee, 
particularly  along  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  and  we  have 
become  for  our  population  the  largest  consumers  of  coffee  in 
the  world. 

I  have  escaped  the  odoriferous  smells  of  the  narrow  streets  and 


282  PEDROPOLIS. 

the  heat  of  the  city  for  a  few  days,  in  visiting  the  new  city  and 
private  summer  residence  of  the  Emperor  Pedro  II.  called  after 
him,  Pedropolis,  where  he  has  founded  a  colony  of  Germans, 
in  the  valley  of  the  mountains,  two  thousand  four  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea  and  about  twenty-seven  miles  from 
Rio,  and  where  the  temperature  of  the  air  is  from  68°  to  70° 
Fahrenheit,  while  in  the  city  the  thermometer  ranges  from  85° 
to  92°.  We  proceeded  by  a  small  steamer  across  the  bay,  wind- 
ing among  many  little  islands  in  a  second  bay,  and  thence  up 
a  small  meandering  river  to  the  landing-place,  where  we  took 
land-carriage  to  the  base  of  the  mountains,  where  our  vehicle 
containing  four  persons  was  drawn  by  four  mules,  over  a  zig- 
zag, well  constructed  road,  with  parapet  walls  and  stone  arches 
for  the  mountain  torrents,  built  by  government  at  heavy  cost ; 
the  entire  distance  was  accomplished  in  seven  hours.  The 
panorama  of  the  bay  and  city  in  the  distance  from  the  crown- 
ing point  is  superb.  There  were  some  fourteen  hundred 
families  of  Germans  composing  this  colony,  and  they  have 
employment  upon  the  roads,  in  the  erection  of  houses,  and 
improvement  of  the  town,  which  is  well  laid  out,  with  streams 
of  pure  water  passing  through  it.  Many  fine  mansions  have 
been  erected  by  city  gentlemen ;  the  Emperor  is  building  a 
palace  of  solid  construction,  which  has  already  occupied  four 
years,  and  cost  two  hundred  thousand  dollars,  and  will  require 
two  years  more  to  complete  it,  as  the  work  progresses  slowly, 
■  and  is  a  fat  job  for  the  builders.  Many  of  the  Germans  have 
sold  out  their  grants  of  town  lots,  and  bought  lands  in  the 
neighborhood,  which  they  are  cultivating,  and  I  could  almost 
imagine  myself  in  parts  of  Switzerland,  for  the  style  of  the 
dwellings,  and  the  costume  and  figure  of  the  German  peasants 
carried  me  back  to  Faderland.  As  long  as  the  Emperor  spends 
money  freely,  all  will  work  well,  but  if  his  patronage  is  with- 
drawn the  j)lace  will  decline,  it  being  too  expensive  for  the 
masses  and  too  difficult  of  access. 

I  saw  here  a  group  of  German  girls  in  Bloomer  costume, 
with  a  part  of  the  palace  band,  who  were  playing  from  house 
to  house.  I  met  with  an  American  on  his  way  to  the  diamond 
mines,  some  five  hundred  miles  in  the  interior — a  persevering 
pioneer  from  old  Kentucky,  who  had  not  been  home  in  twenty- 
four  years.     He  had  married  a  Portuguese  who  had  died,  and 


THE   BOTANICAL   GARDEIST.  283 

hs  had  his  family  with  him,  who  had  been  educated  in  England, 
his  second  wife  being  an  English  lady.  He  had  some  two  hun- 
dred hands  engaged  in  his  business — a  profitable  one,  as  Brazil 
exports  some  four  million  dollars'  worth  of  diamonds  annually. 
Droves  of  mules  were  constantly  passing  to  the  different  mines 
of  gold,  diamonds,  and  other  precious  stones  in  the  interior.  I  was 
shown  some  handsome  specimens  said  to  be  worth  two  thousand 
dollars  per  ounce  in  the  rough.  The  Emperor  and  Empress  are 
seen  almost  daily  in  their  promenades  about  the  suburbs  or 
through,  the  town,  with  a  small  escort,  and  sometimes  quite 
alone ;  the  people  speak  well  of  their  kindness  and  liberality. 
The  Emperor  is  only  twenty-four  years  of  age,  and  his  consort, 
the  sister  of  the  King  of  Naples,  is  his  senior  by  three  years, 
and  not  at  all  remarkable  for  beauty.  I  saw  them  at  the  opera 
last  evening,  in  fall  costume;  they  appeared  to  advantage,  it 
being  the  close  of  a  gala  day,  the  Emperor  having  received  at 
his  palace  all  military  officers  of  distinction.  He  was  clad  in  full 
military  dress;  he  is  of  good  stature,  with  a  well  developed 
figure,  a  face  of  the  Austrian  or  Eussian  type. 

The  frigate  Congress  is  now  in  port,  proceeding  to  Monte 
Video,  and  our  Minister,  Mr.  Schenck,  whose  health  is  some- 
what feeble,  accompanies  her.  If  the  city  of  Eio  Janeiro  is 
remarkable  for  its  filth,  and  the  depravity  and  immorality  of  its 
inhabitants,  it  can  boast  of  the  beauty  of  its  suburbs,  which 
extend  for  many  miles.  La  Gloria  and  Botafogo,  and  other  vil- 
lages situated  upon  the  little  indentations  and  bays,  are  very 
pretty,  and  nature  is  very  prolific  in  her  supply  of  fruits  and 
flowers.  One  of  the  most  beautiful  drives  is  to  the  botanical 
garden,  some  six  miles  from  town,  the  road  winding  along  the 
beautiful  bays,  the  shores  lined  with  the  villas  of  foreigners  and 
wealthy  residents,  and  the  gardens  filled  with  a  great  variety  of 
fruit  trees  and  flowers  peculiar  to  the  climate.  I  found  in  the 
botanical  garden  avenues  of  stately  palms,  not  unlike  the  cafe- 
tals  in  the  island  of  Cuba ;  a  bamboo  labyrinth,  and  an  acre  or 
more  of  the  tea  plant,  as  a  reminiscence  of  China ;  a  grove  of 
cinnamon  trees  of  large  size,  equal  to  those  of  the  island  of  Cey- 
lon ;  and  in  fact,  all  the  productions  of  the  tropics  except  the 
cocoa-nut,  which  I  have  lost  sight  of  since  leaving  Bahia.  The 
city  is  supplied  with  water  from  the  mountains  by  aqueduct,  and 
some  three  hundred  tanks  have  lately  been  placed  at  the  corners 


28-i  MONTE   VIDEO, 

of  the  streets  ;  but  I  drink  river  water  of  an  underground  cul- 
vert in  the  city.  The  offal  is  carried  in  vessels  upon  the  heads 
of  the  negroes  at  night,  and  thrown  upon  the  beach  and  in  the 
harbor. 

It  is  only  surprising  that  the  yellow  fever  does  not  always 
exist  here  ;  it  is  a  blessing  instead  of  a  curse,  if  it  only  improves 
the  cleanliness  of  the  people.  The  currency  of  the  country  is 
government  paper,  from  one  milreis  upwards.  Of  gold  there  is 
considerable,  of  the  value  of  twelve  dollars  each  piece  ;  there  is 
no  small  silver,  but  the  quantity  of  copper  in  circulation  is  enor- 
mous. It  is  not  as  bad  as  in  China,  where  twelve  hundred  small 
coins  go  to  the  dollar ;  but  here,  if  a  milreis,  valued  at  sixty 
cents,  is  exchanged,  you  obtain  a  thousand  reis ;  the  smallest 
coin  is  valued  at  ten  reis,  making  it  necessary  to  ballast  equally 
well  your  pockets ;  but  fortunately,  however,  ferry  boat  and 
omnibus  tickets  go  well,  and  remind  one  of  our  own  shin-plaster 
days. 


LXXIV. 

Monte  Video,  Jan.  20,  1852. 

The  continuation  of  the  South  American  line  of  steamers  is 
maintained  by  the  Prince,  of  only  four  hundred  tons  burden, 
which  takes  the  mails  and  passengers  from  Rio  Janeiro  to  this 
place  and  Buenos  Ayres,  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  further 
up  the  river.  It  is  always  agreeable  to  meet  with  old  acquain- 
tances, and  in  this  instance  I  was  surprised  to  find  that  our  cap- 
tain had  formerl}'-  been  in  command  of  a  mail  packet  from  St. 
Thomas  to  La  Guayra,  which  had  carried  me  down  to  Yenezuela. 
Our  passage,  of  something  more  than  one  thousand  miles,  was 
made  in  a  little  over  four  days, 

Monte  Video  lies  at  the  north  of  the  Rio  de  la  Plata,  one  of 
the  largest  rivers  in  South  America  after  the  Amazon ;  it  was 
discovered  in  1515  by  Juan  Diaz  de  Soles,  who  proceeded  as 
far  as  34°  23'  south  latitude,  but  was  killed,  as  were  also  his 
crew  of  four  men.  A  few  years  later  Sebastian  Cabot,  who 
went  to  discover  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  and  penetrated  as  high 
as  the  conflux  of  the  Parana  and  Paraguay,  some  two  hundred 
leagues,  had  a  fight  with  the  Indians,  and  succeeded  in  taking 


WAR   MATTERS.  285 

their  treasures  of  silver  from  Peru  ;  and  supposing  the  supply 
inexhaustible  gave  the  stream  the  name  which  it  now  bears, 
Silver  River.  It  is  over  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  wide  at  the 
mouth,  but  at  Buenos  Ayres  it  is  reduced  to  forty.  The  influ- 
ence of  this  formidable  river  is  seen  by  the  water  being  colored 
more  than  four  hundred  miles  at  sea.  The  position  of  this  port 
is  desirable  on  account  of  its  ready  access  and  geographical 
position ;  it  has  a  temperate  climate,  and  moderately  dry  winds 
from  the  land  to  counteract  the  humidity  of  the  sea  air.  It 
once  had  a  population  of  seventy  thousand,  which  has  been 
reduced  to  twenty -five  thousand  by  a  nine  years'  siege,  which 
was  successfully  resisted  with  the  aid  of  the  French,  who  have 
paid  for  some  years  annually  forty  thousand  dollars  per  month 
to  sustain  the  place  against  the  besieging  army  of  Oribe,  at  the 
head  of  the  Buenos  Ayrean  forces  of  the  Dictator  Rosas.  I 
found  that  the  town  had  suffered  severely,  particularly  in  the 
deserted  houses  and  crumbling  walls ;  the  pavements  of  the 
streets  are  badly  broken  up,  and  everything  had  the  appearance 
of  desolation ;  but  the  siege  being  raised  last  October,  much  life 
and  activity  have  since  been  displayed  in  repairs,  and  the  block- 
ade has  been  removed  from  vessels  proceeding  to  Buenos  Ayres. 

Oribe,  the  tool  of  Rosas,  has  now  retired  to  his  quinta,  or 
farm-house,  and  is  said  to  be  poor.  Ilis  army  was  headed  by 
General  Urquizas,  in  connexion  with  the  allied  forces  of  Brazil, 
and  those  of  the  provinces  of  Entre  Rios  and  Uruguay,  and  they 
are  now  proceeding  to  "  beard  the  lion  in  his  den,"  having 
crossed  the  river  Parana,  on  their  way  to  Buenos  Ayres  by  land, 
while  the  Brazilian  fleet  are  occupying  the  river.  The  French 
have  eleven  vessels  of  war  now  in  port,  and  in  the  town  are 
quartered  fifteen  hundred  troops,  reminding  one  of  a  garrisoned 
town  in  France.  Brazil  has  now  taken  upon  herself  the  charges 
of  the  war,  and  relieved  the  French ;  she  has  a  large  number  of 
German  troops  employed,  and  the  Monte  Yideans  feel  sanguine 
that  with  an  army  of  thirty  thousand  men  on  a  good  war  foot- 
ing, they  will  be  able  to  overcome  any  force  that  the  tyrant 
Rosas  can  produce,  although  his  infantrj^  and  cavalry  are  esti- 
mated at  from  twenty-five  to  forty  thousand,  by  far  the  greatest 
force  ever  brought  together  in  South  America. 

The  houses  here  have  mostly  azoteas,  or  flat  roofs,  which 
afford  a  fine  promenade  for  the  ladies,  who  have  the  advantage 


286  BUENOS  AYRES. 

of  seeing  all  that  passes  over  the  parapet.  Notwithstanding 
they  have  suffered  so  severely,  and  have  made  such  sacrifices, 
many  families  having  been  beggared,  they  support  an  opera 
which  is  well  attended,  and  the  fair  sex  looks  as  graceful  and 
charming  as  in  most  Spanish  towns. 

I  am  now  proceeding  to  Buenos  Ayres,  where  I  will  finish 
this  epistle. 


LXXV 

Buenos  Ayres,  Feb.  1,  1852. 
My  first  impressions  on  appproaching  this  city  were  highly 
favorable,  the  line  of  shore  appearing  fresh  and  verdant  in  com- 
parison with  Monte  Video  after  its  long  and  devastating  siege. 
The  city,  built  upon  the  banks  of  the  river,  some  thirty  feet 
high,  with  its  forts,  and  public  and  private  buildings  and  tem- 
ples, as  seen  in  approaching  from  the  outer  roadstead,  looked 
quite  imposing.  The  outer  anchorage  is  five  or  six  miles  from 
the  shore,  and  only  vessels  of  a  light  draught  of  water  can  get 
to  the  inner  anchorage,  half  a  mile  from  town,  where  small 
boats  carry  you  towards  the  shore,  and  you  take  large  carts, 
drawn  by  a  pair  of  mules,  nearly  up  to  their  backs  in  water, 
from  the  many  obstructions  in  the  river.  At  the  landing  the 
son  of  General  Mansilla  and  myself  were  met  by  the  captain  of 
the  post  and  several  other  officers,  dressed  in  the  Eosas,  or  san- 
guinary costume,  which  every  native  is  obliged  to  wear,  viz. 
a  red  vest,  a  ribbon  of  the  same  color  around  the  hat,  and  one 
at  the  button-hole,  with  the  inscription,  "  Viva  la  Confederacion  ! 
Mueren  los  salvages  unitarios  ! ''''  (Long  life  to  the  Confederacion  ! 
Death  to  the  savage  unitarians.)  The  offices  of  the  Government, 
I  noticed,  were  painted  red,  and  everything  indicated  that  I  w^as 
in  the  country  of  a  despot.  The  misnamed  republic  of  Buenos 
Ayres  extends  along  the  Atlantic  from  the  Eio  Negro  south  to 
the  Rio  de  la  Plata,  along  the  shores  of  its  estuary  to  the 
southern  bank  of  Parana,  near  to  Santa  Fe.  Its  soil  is  fertile, 
and  affords  the  finest  of  pasturage  for  cattle.  Millions  of  horned 
cattle  and  horses  run  upon  the  pampas,  or  plains,  and  its  exports 
in  hides,  horns,  jerked  beef,  and  tallow,  are  immense.  Its  cli- 
mate is  most  agreeable ;  we  are  now  in  midsummer,  and  the 


PALERMOS.  287 

thermometer  seldom  goes  higher  than  85° ;  every  variety  of 
fruit  found  in  warmer  latitudes  may  be  produced  here ;  but  the 
energies  of  the  people  are  blunted  from  the  excessive  abuses  of 
the  tyrant  Rosas,  who  has  been  for  twenty  years  the  governor, 
so  styled,  but  really  the  modern  Nero  of  the  world.  I  had 
heard  of  his  many  acts  of  atrocity  while  at  Montevideo  and  Rio, 
but  was  unprepared  to  believe  the  thousand  charges  alleged 
against  him,  until  I  learned  from  those  who  had  passed  through 
the  reign  of  terror,  and  who  are  protected  by  their  consuls, 
whereby  they  can  express  their  minds,  although  not  loudly,  that 
half  the  wholesale  butcheries  which  have  occurred  here  for 
opinion's  sake,  cannot  be  portrayed.  I  came  here  with  the 
intention  of  crossing  over  the  pampas  and  the  Cordillera  moun- 
tains to  the  west  coast  at  Valparaiso,  which  is  about  twenty  days' 
travel  on  horseback ;  but  I  find  that  I  cannot  proceed  ten 
leagues  from  the  city  without  the  strongest  probability  of  being 
assassinated  by  stragglers  or  deserters  from  both  camps ;  so  I 
shall  have  to  abandon  my  intention,  and  proceed  to  Rio  Janeiro, 
retracing  my  steps  twelve  hundred  miles  in  order  to  procure 
passage  by  a  British  steamer  going  through  the  Straits  of  Magel- 
lan to  take  her  position  on  the  west  coast  line  from  Chili  to 
Panama.  The  most  intense  excitement  prevails  in  the  city. 
Levies  are  made  of  all  the  native  forces,  from  boys  of  ten  years 
of  age  up  to  old  men  of  eighty,  who  are  called  out  daily  at 
three  p.m.  by  bands  of  music  for  tlie  purpose  of  drilling  until 
sunset ;  all  places  of  business  are  closed,  and  the  poor  people, 
who  have  no  means  of  support,  must  work  at  night  to  keep  from 
starving.  Husbands  and  brothers  are  dragged  off  to  the  army, 
often  leaving  their  families  entirely  destitute. 

The  residence  of  the  dictator,  called  Palermos,  a  beautiful 
drive  about  three  miles  from  town,  where  millions  of  dollars 
have  been  spent  in  reclaiming  a  marshy  country  near  the  river 
bank,  is  intersected  by  canals  and  lined  with  avenues  of  willows 
which  grow  in  great  profusion  and  afford  a  fine  shade,  as  do  also 
oranges  and  other  fruit  trees.  The  drives  through  the  country 
are  beautiful,  and  the  whole  arrangement  is  of  a  princely 
character.  The  review  of  the  troops,  whose  barracks  are  within 
the  inclosures,  was  an  interesting  spectacle ;  they  were  dressed 
in  red  cloth-caps,  with  coats  of  the  same  color;  gaucho  pantaloons 
of  white,  with  heavy  fringe  at  bottom,  and  as  a  finale  the  whole 


288  CONFUSION. 

regiment,  say  three  thousand  strong,  responded  to  the  cry  of 
"Viva  la  confederacion  I "  "Death  to  the  fool  and  traitor 
Urquizas  1"  "  Death  to  the  savage  unitarians  !"  All  of  which 
I  listened  to  with  horror  and  disgust,  and  thought,  "  It  will  not 
be  long  before  your  tunes  are  changed,"  and  I  have  just  had 
the  satisfaction  of  seeing  them  flying  to  the  city  for  safetj^,  as  an 
engagement  has  taken  place  several  leagues  from  the  city,  in 
which  two  thousand  of  Urquizas'  cavalry  put  to  flight  some 
thousands  of  their  opponents,  who  made  good  their  escape  as  fast 
as  their  horses  would  carry  them,  throwing  away  all  their 
accoutrements  of  war,  even  to  their  blankets. 

It  is  an  exciting  time,  and  the  issue  will  soon  be  known. 
Eosas  is  leaving  the  country.  To  prevent  the  approach  of  the 
enemy,  all  the  supplies  of  hay  and  provender  are  embargoed  for 
the  use  of  the  troops,  and  prices  have  been  advanced  from  two 
to  three  hundred  per  cent.  The  currency  of  the  country  is  all 
paper,  and  the  dictator  has  supreme  control  of  the  bank  of 
issue.  Ounces  of  gold  command  three  hundred  and  five  dollars 
of  paper.  He  has  gone  to  the  camp,  as  he  must  make  a  stand 
at  the  head  of  his  army  to  encourage  his  people,  who  secretly 
wish  his  reign  of  tyranny  over ;  his  daughter,  Manuelita,  whose 
political  character  is  quite  established,  has  left  Palermos.  It  is 
surprising  that  the  combined  nations  of  the  earth  should  have  so 
long  sustained  such  an  infamous  government,  but  the  facts  are 
that  the  world  has  not  been  enlightened  on  the  subject;  foreigners 
have  been  protected  by  the  policy  of  this  chief,  and  the  wily  arts 
of  the  second  in  command,  his  talented  daughter,  who  has  many 
good  traits  of  character,  have  inveigled  Charges  and  Consuls,  who 
have  received  such  high  favor  at  court,  that  they  have  been 
infatuated  and  blinded  to  the  monstrosities  of  the  father,  while 
the  governments  that  they  have  represented  have  remained  in 
ignorance  of  the  true  state  of  things.  Our  former  Minister,  Mr 
H ,  on  his  departure,  wrote  one  of  the  most  fulsome  and  dis- 
gusting of  letters,  very  flattering  to  the  vanity  of  these  persons  ; 
but  our  present  Minister  conducts  himself  as  an  American  should, 
with  proper  sentiments  for  suffering  humanity.  The  government 
is  seizing  private  horses  for  the  use  of  the  army ;  the  crisis  is 
approaching,  and  in  a  few  days  we  shall  know  the  result. 


OVERTHROW   OF   ROSAS.  289 


LXXVI. 

Steamer  Prince,  off  Moxtevideo,  Fth.  5,  1852. 

My  last  was  written  the  day  before  the  final  blow  was  struck 
by  Gen,  Urquizas,  at  the  head  of  his  forces,  upon  the  camp  at 
Santos  Lugares.  The  battle  commenced  at  six  in  the  morning 
and  terminated  at  ten  ;  the  first  shock  was  received  by  the 
cavalry  of  Kosas,  who  were  put  to  flight  and  completely  routed. 
At  twelve  o'clock  the  lancers  had  fled  around  in  the  city, 
announcing  that  all  the  cavalry  had  been  destroyed,  and  it  is 
supposed  that  four  thousand  infantry  and  horsemen  have  been 
slain  or  wounded.  The  ministers  and  consuls  of  the  different 
nations,  as  well  as  the  commodores  and  captains  of  the  vessels 
of  war,  English,  Spanish,  Swedish,  Sardinian,  and  American, 
conferred  together  and  resolved  to  bring  their  marines  ashore  to 
protect  the  lives  and  property  of  their  countrymen,  and  applied 
to  Gen.  Mansilla,  he  being  in  command  of  the  city,,  who  replied 
that  at  six  P.M.  he  would  give  an  answer,  but  within  half-an- 
hour  he  sent  word  by  an  officer  that  they  could  land  and.  take 
such  measures  as  they  wished,  at  the  same  time  requesting  the 
assistance  of  a  deputation  of  ministers  to  carry  a  flag  of  truce, 
and  sue  for  terms,  and  cessation  of  hostilities.  The  city  was 
filled  with  troops,  and  the  greatest  possible  excitement  and  con- 
fusion reigned ;  but  the  policy  of  Urquizas  is  pacific,  and  we 
may  now  hope  that  all  will  be  harmonious  soon. 

The  steamer  Locust  has  just  come  down  and  informs  us  that 
Rosas  and  his  daughter  escaped  under  cover  of  night  in  a  small 
row-boat  disguised  as  sailors,  and  bare-footed,  their  shoes  having 
been  drawn  off  by  the  mud.  They  were  passed  by  the  Locust 
on  board  the  British  steamer  Certain,  and  it  is  supposed  that 
he  will  go  to  England,  where  it  is  said  he  has  large  investments 
in  the  funds.  This  news  of  the  downfall  of  the  t3^rant  is 
received  with  great  demonstrations  of  joy  in  Montevideo,  and 
succeeded  by  the  merry  peals  of  all  the  church  bells,  and  an 
illumination.  Mr.  Schenck,  our  minister  from  Rio^  is  with  us 
on  his  return,  having  gone  down  with  the  frigate  Congress, 
Commodore  McKeever,  whom  we  left  at  Buenos  Ayres. 

I  could  have  wished  to  have  remained  a  few  days  longer  to 
know  the  final  result  of  the  affair,  but  as  there  is  only  a  monthly 

19 


290  SLAUGHTERING   CATTLE. 

steamer  of  the  mail  line,  I  must  avail  myself  of  this  occasion, 
to  be  able  to  meet  an  anticipated  opportunity  by  steamer  to 
Valparaiso.  While  at  Buenos  Ayres  I  visited  the  Salideros, 
which  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  sights.  It  is  well  known 
that  the  slaughter  of  cattle  is  unprecedented  here,  and  the 
execution  is  remarkable ;  some  of  these  establishments  dispose 
of  from  five  hundred  to  eight  hundred  per  day.  They  are 
driven  in  from  the  estancias  in  herds,  in  inclosares  made  of 
sharpened  stakes  placed  upright,  and  sufficiently  high  to  prevent 
escape  ;  this  inclosure  is  gradually  contracted  and  separated  by 
means  of  hoisting  gates,  until  the  animals  are  closed  compactly 
near  the  slaughtering  sheds,  where  they  are  lashed  by  the  horns 
and  drawn  to  a  ring  in  a  cross  piece  of  timber,  over  a  truck 
cart  upon  a  railway,  where  they  are  quickly  despatched  by  a 
single  blow  of  the  knife  in  the  neck,  back  of  the  horns ;  they 
are  drawn  up  by  horse  power  acting  over  pulleys ;  fifteen  in 
eleven  minutes  were  disposed  of  in  my  presence.  The  hides 
are  removed,  and  dried  or  salted  for  exportation ;  the  meat  is 
jerked  or  cut  in  slices  for  drying,  and  sent  to  the  West  Indies ; 
the  horn  is  peeled,  and  the  pithy  particles  within  are  used  for 
making  fences  or  bridging  places  or  roads ;  the  offal  is  put  in 
immense  reservoirs,  containing  two  hundred  barrels  each,  of 
which  I  counted  ten  in  the  establishment.  Large  pipes  from 
an  immense  boiler  convey  the  steam  into  these  repositories, 
and  the  tallow  runs  out  of  tubes  at  the  bottom  like  molten  lead, 
and  is  put  up  in  tierces  while  in  a  liquid  state  for  shipping. 
The  refuse  of  the  vats  is  used  for  making  steam,  and  in  fact 
every  particle  of  the  animal  is  consumed,  except  the  blood ;  the 
ashes  from  the  bones  answer  the  purpose  of  guano,  and  are 
contracted  for  in  quantities.  In  consequence  of  the  war  and 
the  uncertain  tenure  of  this  kind  of  property,  which  is  liable  to 
be  taken  by  the  army,  cattle  have  been  sold  at  two  dollars  each, 
our  currency.  It  is  a  horrible  and  disgusting  sight,  but  it  forms 
the  chief  branch  of  commerce  of  this  country.  We  will  now 
carry  the  war  news  to  Eio,  which  will  be  gratifying  and  relieve 
the  treasury. 


CARNIVAL   AT   RIO   JANEIRO.  291 


LXXVII. 

Steamship  "Winfield  Scott,  Pacific  Coast,  March  17,  1852. 
"When  I  last  wrote  you  I  think  I  was  returning  from  Monte 
Video  to  Rio  Janeiro,  to  obtain  a  passage  in  a  new  steamer  which 
was  expected  out  from  England,  designing  to  continue  my  voy- 
age through  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  and  up  to  Chili,  but  I  found 
myself  disappointed.  Soon  after  this,  the  arrival  of  the  noble 
ship  from  which  I  now  write  gave  me  an  excellent  opportunity 
to  do  so,  being  well  commanded,  and  having  accommodations 
for  six  hundred  California  passengers,  while  we  are  but  two  in 
number.  The  detention  at  Rio,  on  my  second  visit,  gave  me 
the  advantages,  or  rather  the  annoyances,  of  the  Carnival  season, 
as  it  is  there  conducted.  For  three  days  from  twelve  at  noon 
until  night,  it  was  unsafe  to  appear  in  the  streets,  where  you  ran 
the  risk  of  being  drenched  with  water,  the  contents  of  colored 
wax  balls  of  the  appearance  of  lemons,  thrown  by  ladies, 
gentlemen,  and  children  ;  in  fact,  all  classes  entered  into  the  sport 
from  the  doors  and  balconies  across  the  streets.  The  Carniva 
commenced  on  Sunday,  Washington's  birth-day,  and  for  three 
days  business  was  mostly  suspended.  I  had  taken  a  social  and 
quiet  dinner  in  the  suburbs  with  our  minister,  under  the  protec- 
tion of  a  large  and  magnificent  star-spangled  banner,  recently 
received,  and  floating  in  reiYiembrance  of  the  Father  of  his 
Country,  to  whom  we  are  so  much  indebted  for  gifts  possessed 
by  no  other  people.  In  returning  my  vehicle  had  to  run  the 
gauntlet  amid  the  showers  of  lemon  balls.  Theatres  were 
crowded  with  masquerades,  which  I  did  not  attend ;  having 
looked  in  upon  them,  however,  the  evening  previous,  which  was 
the  commencement,  I  found  thousands  of  spectators  occupjang 
the  boxes,  and  a  multitude  dancing  with  a  violence  that  I  liad 
scarcely  ever  seen  in  cold  latitudes.  Prior  to  the  Carnival  they 
had  an  annual  ball  for  charitable  purposes,  to  which  I  was 
invited.  It  was  given  in  an  immense  building  in  the  centre  of 
a  long  inclosure  called  the  Garden  of  Paradise,  but  it  appeared 
to  me  more  like  a  Purgatory.  Several  thousand  persons  were 
present,  to  whom  every  variety  of  iced  refreshments  were 
offered ;  the  extreme  heat  of  the  saloon,  which  was  nearly  one 
hundred  degrees,  and  the  ridiculous  costume  of  the  gentlemen 


292  AT   SEA. 

(black  coats  and  pants)  oppressed  me  so  mucli  that  I  was  induced 
to  leave  at  an  early  hour.  The  ladies  wore  more  dresses  of  rose 
and  pink  than  of  white,  which  appeared  to  add  to  the  heat,  and 
were  sparkling  with  diamonds  more  attractive  than  their  persons, 
but  less  diversified  in  complexion,  the  Portuguese  race  not  being 
remarkable  for  beauty,  while  the  color  here  is  much  mixed. 

Our  ship,  which  is  about  twelve  hundred  tons  burden,  took 
in  eight  hundred  tons  of  coal  and  put  to  sea,  and  at  the  expira- 
tion of  four  days  and  a  half  we  found  ourselves  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Kio  de  la  Plata,  with  muddy  water  and  no  soundings,  two 
hundred  miles  from  shore,  which  shows  the  force  of  this  river. 
We  saw  nothing  of  interest  along  the  coast,  except  immense 
flocks  of  aquatic  birds,  opposite  the  Guano  Islands.  At  the 
termination  of  nine  days  and  a  half  we  were  in  Lat.  52°  south, 
at  the  entrance  of  the  Straits,  Cape  Virgin  at  the  north,  and 
forty  miles  wide.  The  cold  having  increased  gradually,  we  had 
made  accession  of  clothing,  and  put  up  a  stove  two  days  before. 
Our  steamer  hove  to  off  the  cape,  and  we  entered  by  daylight, 
with  a  cold,  strong  head-wind ;  the  banks  were  from  one  hundred 
and  sixty  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height;  large  numbers 
of  walruses  or  sea-cows  basked  in  the  sun,  and  many  birds  of 
large  size  flew  foolishly  in  and  through  the  rigging.  Guanacoes 
and  ostriches  are  seen  on  the  Patagonia  shores,  and  the  country 
appears  dreary  and  barren. 

I  became  interested  as  the  scenery  improved  in  grandeur  and 
majesty,  and  occupied  a  place  in  the  pilot-house,  being  well 
muffled  up  in  overcoat  and  cloak  ;  still  it  was  cold  and  cheerless, 
and  I  could  not  avoid  reflecting  upon  the  inconveniences  of  a  ship- 
wreck. The  first  narrows  dividing  the  Patagonian  coast  from 
Terra  del  Fuego  are  about  nine  miles  long,  and  one  mile  and  a 
half  wide,  with  strong  tide  ripples,  and  we  can  see  distinctly  the 
two  shores  ;  the  water  is  of  a  greenish  river  color,  but  quite  salt. 
The  Indians,  of  whom  some  few  are  seen,  trade  for  beads,  petty 
trinkets,  liquor,  ammunition  and  lead,  of  which  they  make  balls, 
and  with  which,  attached  to  the  ends  of  cords,  they  entangle  the 
legs  of  the  ostriches.  In  the  afternoon  of  the  day  we  entered  we 
had  passed  the  second  narrows,  with  Elizabeth  Island  in  view,  in 
an  open  bay,  when  we  espied  the  first  small  sail,  and  supposed  it  to 
be  some  mam  of  war's  boat,  cruizing  with  the  French  flag,  bearing 
down  for  us.     We  were  heading  off  and  should  have  passed  her, 


A   FRENCH   SHIPWRECK.  293 

had  we  not  accidentally  observed  tlie  tri-colored  flag  half-mast, 
when  we  altered  our  course  and  came  up.  We  discovered  a 
French  lieutenant  clapping  his  hands  with  joy,  and  crying  out  in 
his  native  tongue,  "  We  are  shipwrecked !"  When  shall  I  forget 
the  scene  of  excitement  and  ecstasy  manifested  by  himself  and 
his  six  men  composing  the  crew,  as  well  as  ourselves,  on  learning 
their  condition,  and  being  the  means  of  saving  them  ?  His 
launch  was  twenty-one  feet  in  length,  and  six  feet  wide,  with 
mainsail  and  jib ;  it  contained  his  supplies  of  red  wine,  salt-beef, 
and  biscuit,  but  was  leaky,  and  kept  two  men  bailing ;  they 
could  not  have  lived  twenty-four  hours  longer.  The  facts  are 
these  :  The  French  brig  of  war,  Entreprenant,  coming  from  the 
Pacific  on  her  way  to  the  Falkland  islands,  had  entered  a  false 
bay,  of  which  there  are  many,  and  the  constant  westerly  winds 
resisted  every  effort  of  her  crew  of  one  hundred  and  thirty-five 
men  to  get  her  out ;  they  were  surrounded  by  mountains  of  snow 
and  ice,  without  any  chance  of  escape.  At  the  expiration  of 
eleven  days,  the  launch  started  in  pursuit  of  relief  to  Port 
Famine,  a  penal  settlement,  and  the  only  habitable  neighborhood 
along  the  straits.  On  arriving  there  they  found  that  the  con- 
victs had  risen  and  massacred  the  governor  and  other  officers, 
and  escaped,  after  hanging  and  burning  the  captain  and  owner 
of  an  English  brig  and  an  American  three-masted  schooner, 
taking  possession  of  the  vessels  and  all  the  treasure  obtainable. 
The  only  recourse  for  the  launch  was  to  continue  with  the  wind 
towards  the  Atlantic,  when  fortunately  we  met  and  saved  them 
from  a  frightful  death.  The  lieutenant  explained  to  me  the 
position  of  his  ship,  which  I  interpreted  to  our  commander,  who 
readily  consented  to  go  in  pursuit  of  her.  The  next  day  we 
discovered  a  sail,  and  heard  the  discharge  of  guns,  and  found  it 
to  be  the  brig  of  war,  which  had  just  emerged  from  the  bay, 
after  an  imprisonment  of  eighteen  days.  A  perfect  calm  had 
enabled  them,  a  desperate  effort  of  their  oarsmen,  to  tow  her 
eight  miles  out  into  the  strait,  when  the  commander.  Count 
Pouget,  espied  us,  and  expressed  his  obligations,  sending  a  letter 
to  the  French  Commodore  at  Valparaiso,  requesting  me  to  call 
upon  him  personally  with  the  Captain,  and  to  receive  his 
thanks.  The  two  ships  parted  amid  the  general  rejoicing  of  all 
parties. 

We  had  a  cold  but  beautiful  sail  through  scenery  of  the  most 


29-i  SCENERY   OF   THE   STRAITS. 

majestic  and  romantic  character,  mountains  rising  from  two 
thousand  five  hundred  to  three  thousand  feet  in  height,  wich 
jagged  forms  and  snow-cLad,  with  the  gilding  of  the  sun's  rajs 
upon  them. 

There  are  various  kinds  of  scenery  as  you  pass  w^est.  Some- 
times the  peaks  resemble  those  about  Rio,  high  and  conical ;  I 
almost  imagined  myself  among  the  ice-mountains  of  Switzerland, 
and  then  again,  in  the  scanty  undergrowth  of  some  localities,  in 
Norway.  With  the  strong  westerly  winds  in  some  parts,  the 
stunted  trees  rise  from  the  sheltered  side  of  rocks  to  a  level  with 
the  summit,  and  seem  as  if  cut  and  trimmed  off  at  the  top,  and 
all  the  branches  extend  towards  the  east.  The  mountains  rise 
in  succession,  retreating  as  you  approach  the  ocean,  the  influence 
of  the  salt-air  melting  the  snow  and  bringing  down  avalanches, 
while  those  in  the  rear  are  constantly  white,  and  those  on  the 
margin  are  of  grey  granite  in  layers.  On  the  shores  of  South 
Desolation  we  descried  the  smoke  and  fire  of  the  Fuegean  Indians, 
who  came  off  in  bark  canoes,  making  signals  with  seal  skins ; 
the  men,  women,  and  children,  notwithstanding  the  severe 
atmosphere  about  us,  were  nearly  in  a  state  of  nature.  The 
distance  through  the  straits  from  Cape  Virgin  to  Cape  Pillar  is 
two  hundred  and  seventy  miles,  the  most  southern  point  being 
Cape  Froward,  in  Latitude  fifty-four  south ;  our  distance  from 
Rio  Janeiro  to  Valparaiso  will  be  three  thousand  and  six  hundred 
miles,  and  the  views  through  the  passage  are  certainly  among 
the  most  rough,  wild,  desolate,  and  exciting  in  the  world. 
When  the  California  trade  first  opened,  many  small  vessels 
passed  through,  but  now  the  clippers  have  replaced  them,  and 
a  sail  is  rarely  seen. 

We  had  fine  weather  until  we  approached  the  Pacific  entrance 
at  Cape  Pillar,  which  is  a  singular  rock  or  column,  five  hundred 
feet  high,  when  a  heavy  gale  of  wind,  with  a  strong  current 
from  the  west,  set  in,  bringing  in  tremendous  seas,  which  nothing 
but  the  immense  power  of  steam  could  resist ;  the  smallest  acci- 
dent in  the  machinery  must  have  dashed  the  vessel  on  the  rocks. 
The  qualities  of  the  ship  have  now  been  fully  tried,  and  nobly 
has  she  conducted  herself  for  three  boisterous  days,  with  but 
slight  damage  to  the  wood-work  about  the  guards.  She  rode 
the  billows  handsomely,  through  a  perfect  white  sea  of  foam, 
and  rarely  have  I  seen  or  enjoyed  more  grand  and  majestic 


VALPARAISO.  295 

waves.  During  the  squalls  we  liad  some  magnificent  rainbows, 
which  appeared  to  approach  the  ship  in  circular  form,  like  colos- 
sal wheels,  until  almost  within  grasp.  We  also  saw  large  num- 
l)ers  of  albatross,  with  wings  measuring  from  eight  to  ten  feet 
from  tip  to  tip,  and  with  two  joints,  which  gives  them  the  most 
graceful  motion  as  they  skim  over  the  waves. 

Mj  travelling  companion  from  the  Bay  State  is  making  his 
first  voyage,  and  has  suffered  intense  agony  of  mind  for  fear  we 
should  be  lost.  He  says  he  has  already  seen  the  tusks  of  the 
"  elephant "  off  Cape  Pillar,  and  for  two  nights  he  did  not  close 
his  eyes  in  sleep,  as  he  thought  every  moment  we  should  be 
capsized  by  the  heavy  roll  of  the  waves ;  I,  however,  had  full 
confidence  in  the  ship  and  officers.  My  friend  says  he  must  try 
to  get  home  by  land,  as  the  value  of  the  ship  and  cargo  would 
be  no  inducement  to  him  to  pass  through  the  same  scenes  again. 
The  weather  is  now  clear,  the  winds  are  hushed,  the  sea  is 
smooth,  the  nights  are  brilliant,  with  the  white  Magellan  cloud 
in  the  heavens,  as  an  index  for  the  mariner,  and  the  weather  is 
becoming  warm  and  pleasant.  We  have  passed  Ascension,  and 
are  now  approaching  Valparaiso,  where  I  shall  leave  the  steamer 
and  proceed  after  a  few  days  to  Santiago,  the  capital  of  Chili, 
ninety  miles  in  the  interior. 


LXXYIII. 


Santiago,  Capital  of  Chili,  ITarch  24,  1853. 
On  entering  the  harbor  of  Valparaiso,  I  was  struck  with  the 
number  of  vessels  anchored  in  its  deep  bay,  sheltered  from  all 
but  the  northers,  which  arc  at  times  most  destructive  to  shipping. 
It  has  great  depth  of  water,  say  from  sixty  to  eighty  fathoms, 
near  the  shore ;  from  the  broken  and  peculiar  formation  of  the 
many  clay-covered  hills  in  the  background,  with  deep  ravines, 
and  huts,  and  frame  dwellings  clustered  on  the  side,  above  the 
narrow  city  below,  it  appears  not  unlike  a  town  of  stairs,  the 
dry  and  parched  appearance  of  the  summits  affording  no  vege- 
tation, there  having  been  no  rain  for  many  months.  Much 
movement  and  commercial  life  are  there ;  the  shattered  build- 
ings of  last  year's  earthquake  are  mostly  repaired  ;  the  hotels  are 
very  fair ;  the  number  of  foreigners  large,  and  the  population 


296  AMERICAN   FRIGATES. 

upwards  of  fifty  thousand.  The  civil  war  of  last  autumn  hav- 
ing ceased,  the  newly  elected  president  has  been  received  by  all 
classes  on  his  arrival  from  the  capital,  and  remains  the  guest  of 
the  city.  He  is  a  lawyer,  and  occupies  a  high  judicial  position ; 
he  is  the  first  civil  governor  Chili  has  ever  had  ;  his  opponent, 
General  Cruz,  who  attempted  to  nullify  his  election,  was  defeated 
with  the  loss  of  four  thousand  men  in  one  battle. 

I  had  brought  letters  from  Rio  Janeiro  for  the  officers  of  the 
flag  ship  Raritan  and  St.  Lawrence,  and  had  gone  on  board  the 
former  to  pay  the  commodore  a  visit,  when  the  latter  entered 
the  harbor,  having  left  Rio  two  weeks  before  us,  going  round 
the  Horn ;  but  our  ship  had  made  the  quickest  passage  on 
record — ^fifteen  days  and  twenty-two  hours,  moving  time,  via 
the  Straits.  A  salute  of  thirteen  guns  was  received,  and  nine 
returned,  agreeable  to  rank.  The  Portsmouth  has  also  just 
arrived  from  Rio.  Mr.  Peyton,  our  Ambassador  here,  tells  me 
that  he  has  just  received  advices  from  Ecuador,  that  General 
Flores  has  been  fitting  out  an  expedition  from  Callao  to  Guaya- 
quil, and  the  presence  of  this  ship  will  be  required  there.  These 
South  American  Republics,  which  do  not  merit  the  name,  are 
almost  always  in  confusion,  you  perceive.  We  found  that  the 
American  vessel  which  had  been  seized  by  convicts  at  Port 
Famine,  had  arrived  in  the  harbor  of  Valparaiso,  having  been 
rescued  from  the  pirates  by  an  English  steamer;  the  ringleaders 
will  soon  be  executed.  I  regretted  to  learn  that  the  owner,  who 
was  barbarously  hung,  and  whose  body  was  burned,  was  an 
acquaintance,  he  having  on  one  occasion  conveyed  me  from  New 
Orleans  to  Havana;  I  saw  him  last  at  San  Francisco.  The 
Captain  is  now  here,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Duer,  our  consul  at 
Valparaiso,  prosecuting  claims  against  the  Chilian  government ; 
but  I  fear  it  will  be  very  slow  work.  The  usual  mode  of  travel 
from  Valparaiso,  a  distance  of  ninety  miles,  is  in  biloches,  a  sort 
of  heavy  gig  with  two  and  three  horses,  each  mounted  by  pos- 
tillions, the  outside  ones  attached  at  will  by  heavy  straps  at  each 
side  of  the  shafts,  and  fastened  with  hooks  to  a  heavy  saddle ; 
the  riders  attach  or  detach  themselves  at  full  speed,  going  with 
the  greatest  velocity  up  and  down  mountains  and  over  a  desert 
country,  where  nothing  is  seen  but  bushes  and  scraggy  shrubs 
in  a  sandy  soil.  A  few  places  are  seen  on  the  road  where  peach 
and  pear  trees,  as  well  as  grapes,  are  found,  but  the  country  is 


SANTIAGO.  297 

destitute  of  water  most  of  the  distance.  The  horses  are  driven 
ahead  in  a  drove,  and  changed  as  required. 

The  Bilocheros  have  the  habit  of  racing ;  a  certain  rivalry 
exists  between  them,  and  where  opportunity  offers  they  go  at 
full  speed  up  and  down  the  hills,  and  over  the  plains,  regard- 
less of  horse-flesh,  which  is  only  nominal  in  price  We  made 
the  distance  in  twenty-four  hours,  passing  part  of  the  night  at  a 
small  village,  where  the  fleas  disputed  possession  stoutly,  and 
we  were  glad  to  make  a  start  at  three  in  the  morning  to  escape 
them.  We  had  clouds  of  dust  from  the  large  numbers  of  laden 
mules  and  ox-carts.  The  entire  elevation  is  some  two  thousand 
five  hundred  feet  to  the  base  of  the  Andes,  a  chain  of  Cordilleras, 
which  show  their  snow-clad  summits  beautifully  as  you  approach 
the  delightful  and  extended  valleys  of  Santiago,  and  it  is  grati- 
fying to  discern  the  well  watered  plain,  with  its  long  lines  of 
poplars  and  willows  in  the  distance.  Bridges  are  thrown  across 
the  river,  or  mountain  torrent,  which  is  not  unlike  the  Po  at 
Nice,  and  the  rides  along  the  banks  of  the  stream  in  this  genial 
climate,  with  its  vineyards  and  fruit  trees,  amply  compensate  for 
the  trouble  of  getting  here.  The  rides  up  the  mountains  give 
you  a  fair  view  of  the  city,  which  is  extensive,  and  has  a  popu- 
lation of  some  ninety  thousand.  It  is  the  residence  of  all  the 
foreign  ministers,  and  the  seat  of  government;  it  derives  its 
revenues  from  silver  mines,  and  its  agricultural  products  ;  it  has 
a  good  supply  of  red  porphyry  for  side- walks ;  its  streets  are 
wide  and  long,  and  paved  with  small  pebbles ;  its  houses  are 
mostly  built  of  adobe,  or  unburnt  brick,  which  resist  the  shocks 
of  earthquakes.  The  cathedral  is  rather  dangerous,  being  some- 
what shattered.  There  is  a  corps  of  United  States  astronomical 
engineers  here,  whose  observatory  is  placed  on  the  summit  of 
the  little  hill  of  Santa  Lucia.  I  find  an  acquaintance  here,  in 
the  person  of  the  French  minister,  whose  family  came  out  with 
us  in  1849.  One  of  the  church  festivals  has  just  taken  place  by 
torch-light,  in  the  Alameda,  the  pride  of  the  city,  a  promenade 
of  a  mile  in  length,  with  six  rows  of  tall  Florentine  poplars,  and 
pure  streams  of  running  water  the  entire  distance. 

Large  numbers  of  ladies  are  seen  in  church-dresses,  with  black 
mantas  covering  the  head ;  the  people  are  not  of  the  pure 
Castilian  type  as  in  the  south  of  Spain,  many  showing  signs  of 
descent  from  the  Indian  race.     The  countrymen  all  wear  the 


298  MANNERS   AND   CCSTOMS. 

ponchos,  of  various  colors  ;  the  poncho  is  a  bhmket  with  a  hole 
in  the  centre,  through  which  the  head  is  passed,  and  falls  over 
the  shoulders.  The  women  of  that  class  wear  men's  panama- 
hats,  with  long  hair  plaited,  and  falling  in  two  parts  over  the 
back.  It  is  curious  to  notice  the  primitive  manner  in  which 
some  things  are  done  here.  The  watering  of  the  streets  is  done 
by  a  muleteer  on  the  back  of  his  animal,  w^hich  carries  two  small 
twenty  gallon  kegs,  one  lashed  on  each  side ;  these  are  filled  at 
the  top  from  the  fountain.  When  he  arrives  at  the  dusty  spot 
he  pulls  the  cork  from  the  bottom  and  starts  his  mule  on  a  trot 
until  the  contents  are  scattered,  and  then  returns  for  fresh 
supplies.  One  of  the  curiosities  shown  here  is  the  first  house 
built  by  Valdivia  in  1560.  It  is  a  one-story  adobe  dwelling, 
with  gratings  above  near  the  roof,  in  order  to  give  ventilation 
and  light,  and  to  prevent  attacks  of  Indians  by  openings  below ; 
it  has  had  additions  since.  The  wheat  crops  are  excellent,  and 
the  exportation  of  flour  and  beans  from  Chili  to  California  is 
very  heavy.  We  visited  the  chacras  or  farms  in  the  vallej^s, 
where  thousands  of  bushels  of  grain  were  exposed  in  heaps  in 
the  open  air,  without  fear  of  rain,  having  been  trodden  out  by 
cattle,  and  numbers  of  men,  employed  at  fifteen  cents  per  day,  and 
found,  were  throwing  up  the  wheat  to  the  breeze,  which  carries 
off  the  chaff  and  winnows  it  perfectly.  Labor  is  improving,  how- 
ever, and  in  the  cities  fifty  cents  per  day,  and  one  dollar  twenty- 
five  cents  for  mechanics,  are  paid,  in  consequence  of  the  great 
emigration  to  California.  Two  vessels  lately  sailed  thither 
with  two  hundred  emigrants  each,  and  from  personal  experience 
I  know  that  very  many  Chilians  are  found  in  that  country. 
Vast  sums  have  been  realized  here  from  Eldorado  for  products, 
and  large  mills  are  now  being  erected  in  the  south  for  the 
supplies  of  that  market,  though  too  late,  I  think,  as  Oregon 
can  produce  immense  quantities  when  once  the  population 
becomes  more  dense.  The  transportation  of  products  from  this 
capital  to  Valparaiso  is  performed  by  heavy  ox-carts,  many  with 
covers  resembling  small  round-top  houses  with  windows ;  these 
covers  are  a  protection  during  the  winter  months,  which  com- 
mence in  June,  also  against  the  sun's  rays  in  summer,  which  has 
already  passed;  they  travel  now  mostly  by  night,  with  a  brilliant 
sky,  and  you  see  families  of  women  and  children  occupying  their 
tenement  by  the  desert  road-side,  or  cooking  the  supplies  brought 


COQUIMBO.  299 

with  them.  Thej  train  their  oxen  not  only  to  pull,  but  to  hold 
back  the  load  by  the  horns ;  they  have  four  yoke  for  the  immense 
zigzag  cuttings,  a  mile  and  a  half  in  the  ascent;  they  then  reverse 
the  order  of  things,  and  the  poor  beasts  are  seen  behind,  with 
heads  bowed  to  the  ground,  holding  back,  and  almost  tripped 
off  their  legs,  and  not  unfrequently  off  go  the  whole  troop  down 
the  precipice  and  are  dashed  in  pieces. 

A  nephew  of  the  president  joined  me  in  coming  up  from 
Valparaiso,  his  family  having  left  earlier,  and  we  overtook  them 
and  dined  on  the  road.  They  were  going  to  his  chacra,  in 
another  direction.  At  the  little  village  where  we  stopped  at 
night,  he  introduced  me  to  the  Catholic  curate  of  this  poor 
place,  who  regaled  us  with  cakes  and  matte  from  Paraguay ; 
matte  is  the  leaf  of  a  tree  much  in  use  as  a  substitute  for  tea 
and  coffee,  and  sucked  through  a  tube ;  we  passed  the  evening 
in  conversation  and  smoking  cigarettes,  until  the  time  came  to 
be  devoured  by  fleas  in  bed. 

The  English  steamers  touch  at  half-a-dozen  towns  on  the  way 
up  to  Peru,  giving  an  opportunity  of  passing  a  day  at  each.  I 
shall  embark  from  Valparaiso  in  a  few  days  for  Callao  and 
Lima. 


LXXIX. 

Lima,  April,  1852. 
My  last  was  from  Santiago,  the  capital  of  Chili.  I  now 
address  you  from  the  renowned  city  of  Lima,  the  seat  of  gov- 
ernment of  Peru,  having  in  the  interim  touched  at  many  of  the 
small  ports  along  the  coast  from  Valparaiso  to  Callao,  spending 
part  of  a  day  at  each.  Oar  first  landing-place  was  Coquimbo, 
where  are  some  important  copper  mines  and  smelting  furnaces. 
The  town,  which  was  the  seat  of  the  insurgents  in  the  last  civil 
war,  is  about  two  leagues  from  the  little  port.  Our  steamer  was 
the  Santiago,  recently  from  England,  and  she  proved  rather  a 
failure,  making  only  one  hundred  and  ninety  miles  in  thirty 
hours.  Her  machinery  became  heated,  the  wheels  dipped  too 
much ;  they  attempted  to  account  for  it,  however,  by  the  bad 
quality  of  the  coals.  We  arrived  the  following  day  at  Oasco, 
which  is  surrounded  by  a  small  valley,  very  grateful  to  the  eye, 


300  COLIZA  AND   IQUIQUE, 

in  comparison  with  the  volcanic  and  iron-bound  coast.  The 
next  point  was  Caldeva,  the  port  of  Copiapo,  fifty-two  miles 
distant,  where  the  first  South  American  railway  was  during  the 
past  year  put  in  operation  by  American  mechanics.  We  landed 
there  one  hundred  and  forty  passengers  of  mixed  classes,  bound 
for  the  mines.  They  were  a  noisy  set,  grasping  at  table,  and 
continually  dancing  their  Samba  Queca  on  deck ;  there  were 
also  some  amusing  groups  of  half-Indian  and  Spanish  races,  in 
costume  of  the  country. 

We  received  there  considerable  quantities  of  silver  in  bars, 
destined  for  England.  It  was  a  great  relief  to  find  our  passen- 
gers reduced  down  to  twenty -five,  as  the  living  had  been  poor, 
and  a  change  was  much  needed.  No  good  excuse  could  be 
offered  for  neglect,  as  the  price  of  passage  was  enormous ;  but 
nothing  to  warrant  American  competition,  as  the  line  is  now 
firmly  established,  with  large  capital,  and  determined  to  drive 
off  all  opponents.  Our  next  point  of  debarkation  was  Coliza, 
the  only  port  of  Bolivia,  a  miserable  town  of  huts,  with  only 
three  wells  of  water,  which  is  divided  out  among  the  inhabitants 
in  proportion,  from  small  kegs  on  the  backs  of  donkeys.  The 
mountains  about  it  are  barren,  and  not  the  slightest  sign  of 
vegetation  is  seen.  Silver  and  copper  induce  people  to  live 
there.  We  visited  the  guano  deposits,  where  about  one  hundred 
state  prisoners  were  at  work  putting  it  up  in  sacks  for  exporta- 
tion. The  following  day  we  arrived  at  Iquique,  where  one  of 
our  fellow  passengers  is  established,  though  he  is  now  from 
Valparaiso  on  his  way  to  England.  He  was  evidently  the 
Alcalde  of  his  miserable  town,  which  relies  mostly  upon  saltpe- 
tre for  its  support ;  not  a  blade  of  grass  or  drop  of  water  is  to 
be  seen,  reminding  one  of  the  shores  of  the  Red  Sea  ;  still  about 
one  thousand  persons  exist  there.  A  small  mill  grinds  the  wheat 
brought  from  Chili ;  seventeen  Chinese  were  employed  on  it. 
Many  are  brought  over  to  the  coast  and  sold  for  a  limited  period 
for  their  passage  money.  The  escape  steam  from  the  machine 
distils  the  salt  water,  which  is  sold  at  six  reals,  or  seventy- 
five  cents  per  keg  of  eighteen  gallons.  Fruit  and  vegetables 
are  brought  from  Arica,  eighty  miles  further  down  the  coast. 
The  village  looks  like  an  Egyptian  one,  being  composed  of 
mud  huts  thatched  with  leaves.  The  mules  and  donkeys  are 
the  most  miserable  specimens,   dying  with   thirst,  and  wading 


ARICA — ISLAY — PISCO.  301 

in  tlie  salt  water,  laving  tbeir  mouths  and  picking  up  sea-weed. 
These  animals  come  down  laden  with  saltpetre,  one  day's  jour- 
ney, and  the  mules  return  immediately  ;  tlie  donkeys  generally 
rest  a  day  or  two,  but  frequently  their  drivers  are  unwilling  to 
pay  a  real,  or  twelve  and  a  half  cents,  for  a  bucket  of  water,  so 
the  poor  brutes  are  compelled  to  return  without  a  drink.  Our 
friend's  house  and  stores  were  large  frame  buildings  near  the 
beach,  two  stories  high,  with  balconies,  and  comfortably  fur- 
nished and  supplied. 

I  was  particularly  struck  with  his  despidida,  or  farewell 
departure,  after  a  residence  of  nineteen  years.  A  handsome 
collation  of  fruits  and  wine  of  various  kinds  was  served  to  his 
friends,  and  among  the  number  appeared  a  lady  of  the  country 
with  her  child.  She  was  dressed  in  velvet,  with  a  rich  China 
shawl,  diamond  necklace  and  ear-rings,  and  fingers  loaded  with 
precious  stones.  While  the  champagne  corks  were  flying  I  had 
a  glance  from  the  balcony  over  the  desert  with  its  heavy  sands 
and  rocky  mountains  in  the  distance,  and  could  scarcely  realize 
my  position ;  but  the  figure  of  Commerce  presented  herself 
among  the  shipping  and  explained  the  circumstance.  The  town 
of  Arica  appeared  like  an  oasis  in  the  desert,  the  streets  being 
paved  and  well  laid  out ;  the  houses  were  built  with  flat  roofs, 
and  there  were  two  churches,  badly  shaken  by  earthquakes. 
Our  Consul  had  very  comfortable  quarters,  with  a  fine  garden 
of  fruit  and  flowers.  The  country  in  the  interior  in  many  places 
is  productive,  but  the  chief  fertility  consists  of  silver  mines. 
Islay,  the  next  town,  is  difficult  to  access,  being  high  and  rocky; 
it  has  some  decent  houses,  and  is  the  port  of  Arequipa.  Water 
is  brought  in  by  aqueducts,  and  it  was  a  refreshing  sight  to  see 
the  donkeys  drinking  at  will.  I  called  with  a  friend  upon  an  old 
Spaniard,  whose  two  daughters  gratified  us  with  music  upon  the 
piano,  even  in  this  almost  uninhabited  country,  and  seemed 
contented  with  their  home  and  climate.  The  following  day  we 
found  ourselves  at  Pisco,  celebrated  for  its  wine  and  liquors. 
We  mounted  horses  and  rode  in  the  country,  visited  some  of 
the  vineyards,  and  returned  to  town  about  two  miles  from  the 
beach  ;  it  happened  to  be  Palm  Sunday,  and  we  visited  the 
cathedral  built  by  the  old  Spaniards,  saw  the  procession  and 
entrance  into  Jerusalem,  by  knocking  at  the  side-door,  and  heard 
some  extraordinary  music.     Palm  branches  M^ere  distributed,  and 


302  GUANO   ISLANDS. 

the  motley  group  of  half-castes,  Indians,  Negroes,  atid  Spaniards 
dispersed.  We  had  the  day  previous  picked  up  a  launch  with 
six  men,  who  had  been  out  twenty-three  days  from  Valparaiso, 
and  without  water  and  provisions  for  two  days.  We  supplied 
them  with  biscuit,  beans,  candles,  wood,  and  water;  not  for- 
getting cigars,  which  were  among  the  first  articles  which  they 
demanded. 

Our  final  landing-place  was  the  Chinchas  Guano  Islands,  the 
present  great  source  of  wealth  of  the  Peruvian  government;  a 
supply  still  exists  for  perhaps  a  century,  sufficient  to  pay  the 
interest  on  the  national  debt  of  some  twenty  millions  of  dollars, 
the  bonds  of  which,  from  being  almost  valueless,  have  advanced 
to  j3ar  in  England.  I  was  surprised  to  find  ten  ships  and  brigs 
waiting  for  loads.  One  can  scarcely  realize  that  the  immense 
deposits  or  hills  have  been  produced  by  birds,  but  the  flocks 
which  are  seen,  and  which  are  prohibited  from  being  destroyed, 
and  the  known  voracity  of  the  species,  reconcile  one's  doubts, 
particularly  in  a  climate  where  it  never  rains. 

The  use  of  the  guano  has  long  been  known  in  the  interior  of 
the  country ;  it  is  transported  on  the  backs  of  animals  to  the 
valleys,  irrigated  by  the  waters  from  the  melting  snows  of  the 
Andes.  The  people,  I  learn,  are  substituting  negroes  for  the 
Chinese,  as  the  latter,  being  disappointed  in  this  kind  of  servi- 
tude, have  frequently  destroyed  themselves  by  hanging,  many  in 
groups,  joining  hands  and  leaping  over  the  precipice,  in  the 
belief  of  restoration  to  their  happy  homes.  I  arrived  here  at 
the  commencement  of  the  Passion  Week,  and  found  that  all 
Lima  had  had  the  peste,  or  plague,  a  species  of  yellow  fever ;  it 
had  nearly  exhausted  itself  for  want  of  victims,  but  strangers  of 
course  were  expected  to  take  it.  The  Italian  opera  company,  of 
seventeen  persons,  just  arrived  from  the  north,  were  all  taken, 
save  three,  and  out  of  our  number  of  twenty-five  at  the  hotel 
at  table  only  five  were  left.  I  have  been  exposed,  with  my 
fellow-passengers,  but  in  consequence  of  having  had  the  original 
Yellow  Jack,  have  thus  far  escaped.  The  churches  of  Peru  are 
the  finest  in  South  America;  there  are  about  fifty-two  in  the 
city,  with  a  population  of  ninety  thousand  persons.  They  date 
their  riches  and  luxury  in  the  time  of  the  Spaniards.  Some  of 
the  temples  were  decorated  with  a  great  variety  of  flowers,  in 
vases  furnished  for  the  occasion,  by  private  families,  forming 


RELIGIOUS   CEREMONIES.  303 

avenues  of  tropical  vegetation  through  these  deep  edifices,  while 
the  light  of  a  thousand  candles  illuminated  the  high  altar,  and 
disclosed  the  faces  of  hundreds  of  the  beautiful  Limanians  of  the 
Andakisian  race,  who  were  kneeling  in  their  rays,  in  black 
shawls  or  mantillas ;  after  a  short  prayer  they  rose  and  visited 
other  churches.  I  visited  twelve  of  the  most  important  in  the 
evening,  and  found,  as  in  Havana,  that  at  these  festivals,  some 
new  attractions  are  held  out  for  visitors,  who  continue  the  rounds 
until  overcome  with  flxtigue.  In  one  church  the  last  supper  was 
represented  by  Christ  and  his  twelve  apostles,  sitting  at  a  well- 
covered  table  of  fruits,  flowers,  and  wine,  the  approach  to  which 
was  difficult,  on  account  of  the  rush  of  negroes  and  half-castes. 
In  another  church  the  figures  of  the  soldiery  and  the  crowning 
with  thorns  were  represented ;  a  grotesque  zapatero,  or  shoe- 
maker, in  a  crouching  position,  looking  up  with  a  huge  pair  of 
spectacles,  seemed  to  excite  the  mirth  of  the  common  people. 
The  balcony  of  my  apartment  faces  the  Plaza,  or  Cathedral 
Square  ;  at  the  right  is  pointed  out  the  spot  where  Pizarro  lost 
his  life,  fighting  nobly ;  in  the  crypt  of  the  cathedral  is  shown 
what  are  called  his  remains. 

On  Noche  Buena,  the  night  after  the  Passion  "Week,  the  whole 
square  was  roasting  and  stewing.  Negroes  were  there  in  great 
numbers,  with  fire  and  cooking  utensils ;  hot  fritters  boiled  in 
oil,  sausages,  garlic  salads,  and  aguardiente ;  and  there  were 
booths,  or  stands,  on  three  sides,  with  every  variety  of  trinkets 
for  sale,  and  an  immense  concert  of  Indians,  negroes,  and  other 
races ;  while  in  front,  respectable  ice-cream  and  confectionery 
stands  accommodated  the  gentlemen  and  ladies  with  seats,  and 
cooling  drinks,  made  from  fruits  and  ice,  brought  from  the 
mountains,  seven  leagues  distant,  on  the  backs  of  mules.  The 
river  Rimac  flows  through  the  city,  and  running  water  passes 
through  many  of  the  streets.  The  mountains  around  are  arid 
and  forbiddmg,  without  the  least  verdure  ;  but  by  irrigation  the 
gardens  of  the  valleys  are  made  productive.  At  a  charge  of  four 
reals,  or  fifty  cents,  the  railway,  eight  miles  in  length,  brings 
passengers  from  the  port  of  Callao.  It  is  a  new  construction, 
and  has  an  elevation  of  five  hundred  feet.  The  chief  place  of 
resort  for  the  Limanians,  are  the  ocean  baths  of  Churillas,  whither 
I  propose  going. 


304  BULL   FIGHTS. 


LXXX. 


Steamer  Quito,  April  29,  ]852. 

The  old  Spanish  custom  of  bull  fights  is  still  kept  up  with 
all  its  vigor  in  Lima,  and  the  long  looked-for  combat  came  off 
after  the  church  ceremonies  of  Passion  Week  had  ended.  Hav- 
ing, as  a  traveller,  witnessed  this  barbarous  sport  in  Spain, 
where  it  is  countenanced  by  the  nobility  and  the  dignitaries  of 
the  government,  I  was  induced  to  attend  it  here  chiefly  to 
observe  the  ladies  in  their  say  a  mantas — a  garment  which 
entirely  prevents  recognition,  as  it  leaves  one  eye  only  exposed. 
The  sayas  are  flilling  into  disuse,  and  not  seen  so  often  as  for- 
merly in  the  public  streets,  except  on  festive  occasions.  Any 
lady  may  be  addressed,  but  under  no  circumstances  can  the  veil 
be  removed  by  force,  without  calling  down  the  vengeance  of 
bystanders.  An  immense  building  of  circular  form  stands  near 
the  Alameda ;  it  is  a  public  promenade,  with  palcos  or  boxes  for 
parties  and  families,  and  seats  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre, 
capable  of  containing  some  seven  thousand  persons.  The 
authorities  of  the  city  occupy  a  prominent  place,  as  well  as  the 
military  ofiicers  and  judges.  A  programme  is  sold,  containing 
the  names  of  the  twelve  bulls  to  be  killed,  and  describing  the 
characteristics  of  the  prominent  matadores,  two  of  whom,  father 
and  son,  have  recently  arrived  from  Spain. 

The  trumpet  sounds ;  mounted  horsemen  come  forth  and 
clear  the  ring ;  others  appear  with  lances  in  hand ;  and  then 
appear  six  flag-men  with  red  and  yellow  scarfs,  round  jackets, 
and  short  clothes  of  silk  and  velvet,  embroidered  with  gold  and 
silver  lace,  shining  knee-buckles,  and  silk  stockings.  The  sliding 
gate  is  opened,  and  in  rushes  the  tortured  bull,  with  his  eyes 
glaring,  and  makes  for  the  horse,  but  is  diverted  by  the  blazing 
colors  of  the  scarfs.  Sometimes  a  mantle  is  thrown  over  the 
shoulders ;  the  animal  pursues  it,  when  the  wearer  dashes  it 
aside  and  dodges  the  infuriated  beast,  escaping  behind  a  side 
partition  fence,  while  he  takes  after  another,  and  barbed  arrows 
with  feather  or  paper  plumes  are  planted  in  his  neck,  causing 
him  to  roar  and  paw  the  dust,  and  make  another  attempt  at  his 
adversary,  in  which  he  sometimes  upsets  horse  and  rider,  goring 
the  former,  to  the  delight  of  the  multitude,  whose  cries  and 


LIMA,  305 

waving  handkerchiefs  attest  their  pleasure.  After  the  ineffectual 
efforts  and  hair-breadth  escapes  of  the  actors,  the  matador, 
while  attracting  the  bull  with  his  red  flag,  with  one  thrust  of 
his  long  sword  gives  him  a  mortal  stab,  which  passes  through 
the  neck  and  heart,  and  appears  between  the  fore-legs.  The 
enthusiasm  is  then  at  its  height.  The  trumpet  sounds,  the  gates 
are  thrown  open,  two  pairs  of  heavy  mules  appear,  bedecked 
with  feathers,  and  mounted  by  two  riders.  The  head  of  the 
defunct  is  raised  upon  a  pair  of  small  wheels,  and  attached  by 
the  horns  to  the  traces  ;  the  band  strikes  up,  the  dead  carcase  is 
removed  under  the  full  gallop ;  the  gates  are  closed,  and  a  new 
victim  soon  appears.  I  felt  it  a  relief  to  escape  and  stroll  along 
the  beautiful  Alameda,  upon  the  river  bank.  The  ride  to  the 
baths  of  Churilla,  a  few  leagues  from  Lima,  is  over  a  heavy, 
sandy  road,  dusty,  dreary,  and  of  no  interest. 

The  Indian  village  situated  on  the  bay  is  much  resorted  to 
during  the  summer  months.  The  bath-houses  are  of  cane  or 
reed,  and  form  a  sort  of  labyrinth,  with  a  few  flat  stones  in 
each  for  seats ;  they  are  occupied  by  both  sexes,  but  are  rather 
exposed.  Gambling  seems  to  be  the  order  of  the  day,  or  rather 
night,  as  all  classes,  male  and  female,  enter  into  the  sport,  it 
being  the  ruling  passion  of  the  Peruvians  as  well  as  the  Chilians. 
Among  the  passengers  in  the  diligence  or  public  conveyance 
was  a  grey-headed,  thin-visaged,  lank  old  man,  whose  whole 
dress,  including  his  poncho,  would  not  have  sold  for  twenty 
dollars;  yet  this  confirmed  old  gambler  had  amassed  two 
hundred  thousand  dollars  in  play,  and  notwithstanding  that  he 
was  lame  with  one  foot  in  the  grave,  his  passion,  which  was  the 
object  of  his  visit,  must  still  be  gratified.  Many  persons  have 
private  residences  for  the  enjoyment  of  the  sea  breeze  and  bath- 
ing, but  they  are  of  a  primitive  character.  Ludicrous  dances  in 
grotesque  costumes  are  performed  by  the  negroes,  which  help 
to  pass  their  evenings. 

Lima  is  considered  the  gayest  city  on  the  South  Pacific  coast, 
and  enjoys  a  mild,  equal  climate,  being  uninfluenced  by  the  near 
approach  of  the  mountains,  and  of  a  much  more  agreeable 
temperature  than  the  same  latitude  on  the  opposite  side  in 
Brazil.  The  houses,  which  are  two  stories,  have  balconies  of 
latticed  work,  which  gives  the  ladies  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
all  passers  in  the  streets.     The  ladies  are  less  celebrated  for 

20 


306  EAETHQUAEES. 

constancy  than  for  sprightliness,  grace,  and  beauty,  and  are  a  far 
superior  race  to  the  men,  who  are  much  inferior  to  the  Chilians. 
The  use,  or  rather  abuse  of  the  say  a  manta  was  formerly  a 
means  of  intrigue  even  in  the  presence  of  husbands  and  brothers, 
as  exchanges  of  robes  were  easily  effected.  The  adoption  of 
European  costume  is  fast  reducing  the  use  of  this  garment. 

To  a  stranger  the  alarm  created  by  a  shock  of  an  earthquake 
upon  the  natives  appear  ridiculous,  as  they  rush  out  of  their 
houses  into  the  open  square,  and  if  the  shock  is  in  the  night,  of 
course  in  undress ;  all  who  experience  these  shocks,  however,  are 
soon  overcome  by  the  same  kind  of  terror.  The  earthquake  of 
the  last  century  swept  Callao  and  its  entire  population  into  the 
sea.  We  had  a  considerable  shock  a  few  days  since,  while  I 
was  in  a  heavy  stone  and  brick  building,  used  in  part  for  a 
museum,  and  where  some  interesting  specimens  of  antiquity  of 
the  times  of  the  Incas  are  found,  as  also  mummies  from  the 
Indian  mounds,  and  the  portraits  of  the  former  viceroys  of 
Peru.  I  was  examining  these  objects  attentively,  when  I  found 
myself  suddenly  alone,  with  the  balance  of  the  party  making 
for  the  inner  court  or  square,  crying  out  "  un  temblor  .^"  The 
dust  was  flying  about  me,  and  I  followed  hurriedly ;  I  observed 
that  the  sky  was  remarkably  bright,  that  there  was  a  perfect 
stillness  of  the  elements,  and  that  the  air  was  filled  with  birds 
in  confusion  ;  however,  it  soon  passed,  and  without  damage. 

The  steamer  from  which  I  write  is  new;  she  is  just  out  from 
England,  this  being  her  first  trip.  We  are  fortunate  in  having 
fresh  supplies  and  attentive  servants,  with  few  passengers,  and 
every  comfort.  We  have  just  met  the  Santiago,  and  exchanged 
civilities,  and  received  English  papers  from  Panama.  I  learn 
from  her  captain,  who  has  just  recovered  from  the  pest,  that  all 
my  fellow  passengers  from  Valparaiso,  who  touched  at  Callao 
and  Lima,  with  one  exception,  were  attacked,  and  among  the 
number  a  family  of  seven  persons.  I  find  I  have  great  reason 
to  be  thankful  in  having  escaped. 

We  shall  make  the  distance  of  eighteen  hundred  miles  in 
seven  and  a  half  days,  passing  nearly  one  day  at  Paita,  which 
has  a  fine  harbor,  and  was  formerly  resorted  to  by  whalers  for 
supplies ;  they  now  go  to  Tumbes,  seven  leagues  above,  where 
water  is  to  be  had,  with  which  water  Paita  is  supplied,  not  a 
blade  of  grass  or  a  drop  of  the  liquid  element  being  produced 


bolivar's  wife.  307 

at  the  latter  place,  the  few  plants  there  in  boxes  being  looked 
upon  with  much  pleasure.  It  is  far  superior  to  many  other 
small  towns  along  the  coast.  There  are  some  comfortable 
houses  built  of  cane,  and  covered  with  flags,  which  earthquakes 
cannot  shake  down  easily,  and  several  long  and  narrow  streets 
which  afford  shade.  An  extraordinary  event  had  just  occurred, 
it  having  rained  for  a  part  of  a  day,  for  the  first  time  in  seven 
years.  The  natives  are  mostly  Indians ;  a  quiet,  docile,  and  well- 
looking  people.  The  residents  seem  satisfied  with  their  position 
and  climate  ;  they  say  that  they  are  deprived  of  vegetation  and 
water,  but  that  they  can  get  supplies  from  along  the  coast ;  that 
they  are  not  infested  with  venomous  reptiles  and  noxious  fleas, 
the  accompaniment  of  rank  verdure,  and  that  the  people  die  of 
old  age,  citing  instances  of  ninety  and  one  hundred  years 
longevity.  I  had  made  a  passage  with  the  son  of  the  English 
Consul,  whose  father  had  been  there  for  nineteen  years,  and 
enjoys  the  climate.  I  breakfasted  and  lunched  with  him,  with 
some  other  guests  from  the  ship,  and  certainly  there  was  no 
want  of  the  good  things  of  life,  even  in  such  a  desert  place. 
The  reputed  wife  of  General  Bolivar  resides  here ;  she  was  with 
him  in  many  of  his  campaigns,  while  Liberator  of  South 
America.  A  friend  took  me  to  her  house,  and  I  found  a  stout, 
fat,  but  well  featured  elderly  lady,  in  her  hammock,  which 
I  learn  she  rarely  leaves,  unless  for  her  bed.  She  had  her  two 
poodle  dogs  nestling  beside  her;  she  received  us  kindly,  and 
conversed  intelligently  and  in  a  diplomatic  manner  upon  matters 
of  politics.  She  is  a  great  friend  of  General  Flores,  whose 
expedition  is  now  approaching  Guayaquil  with  fourteen  hundred 
men,  and  with  the  prospect  of  overthrowing  President  Urbini, 
of  Ecuador,  who,  she  says,  was  educated  by  General  Flores 
while  former  President,  to  whom  he  proved  an  ungrateful 
wretch.  I  found  there  the  daughter  of  Flores  with  her  husband 
and  aide  de-camp,  awaiting  news  from  the  seat  of  war.  This 
lady,  who  once  lived  in  Lima  in  almost  regal  style,  now  subsists 
upon  the  charities  of  her  numerous  friends.  As  I  had  once  visited 
the  tomb  of  Bolivar  in  Caraccas,  and  received  the  hospitalities 
of  a  cousin  bearing  his  name,  in  his  rancho,  near  Porto  Cabello, 
the  old  lady  seemed  interested  in  me,  and  insisted  on  my  joining 
her  in  smoking  a  choice  Havana,  an  occupation  which  she 
appeared  to  enjoy. 


808  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

To-morrow  we  shall  arrive  at  Panama,  which  place  I  had  not 
expected  or  hoped  to  see  again,  and  I  can  scarcely  realize  the 
fact  that  since  my  last  visit  I  have  made  the  circuit  of  the  globe, 
and  since  my  departure  from  home  have  passed  almost  the  entire 
length  of  North  and  South  America  on  both  sides.  After 
fourteen  winters'  travel  in  southern  latitudes,  and  several  years' 
absence  at  intervals  from  home,  I  find  that  my  table  of  distances 
amounts  to  six  hundred  thousand  miles,  from  the  snowy 
regions  of  Canada,  Norway,  and  Finland  in  the  north,  to  the 
barren  shores  of  Patagonia  in  the  south — having  traversed  by 
sea  and  land,  at  different  periods,  almost  all  the  practicable 
portions  of  the  earth,  in  making  the  circuit  of  the  world. 
Although  what  has  passed  appears  not  unlike  a  dream,  my 
ambition  for  the  present  is  satisfied,  and  I  have  reason  to  thank 
a  kind  Providence,  whose  protecting  hand  has  carried  me  through 
almost  all  the  perils  of  life,  and  has  been  the  means  of  preserving 
a  constitution  endangered  by  the  severity  of  northern  winter- 
climates.  I  shall  proceed  via  the  isthmus  to  Havana,  and  thence 
to  New  Orleans,  on  my  way  home,  where  I  hope  to  arrive  in  the 
early  part  of  June. 


RETKOSPECT  OF   TRAVEL.  309 


1853. 
LXXXI. 

Paris,  Jan.  31,  1853. 
Since  I  left  the  Pacific  coasts  of  Chili  and  Peru  last  spring,  I 
have  hesitated  about  afflicting  you  with  correspondence,  and 
thinking  and  hoping  that  my  voyages  around  the  world  were 
complete.  Time  and  circumstances,  however,  have  since  carried 
me  to  Cuba  (by  the  way,  it  is  my  eighth  visit),  and  I  have 
traversed  the  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the  city  of  New 
Orleans  ;  steamed  up  the  mighty  Mississippi  and  Ohio  rivers  for 
the  sixth  time ;  besides  visiting  Canada  and  Niagara.  Notwith- 
standing the  thousand  incidents  constantly  occurring,  I  held  my 
peace.  Having  left  my  native  village  in  the  latter  part  of 
November,  in  pursuit  of  a  more  genial  climate,  I  find  myself 
once  again  on  European  soil,  and  in  the  capital  of  the  French 
empire.  So  many  important  events  have  transpired  since  I  left 
home  that  you  will  pardon  me  for  once  more  taking  up  my  pen, 
and  breaking  silence.  Our  steamer  took  the  southern  passage 
in  crossing  the  Atlantic ;  the  early  part  of  our  voyage  upon  the 
edge  of  the  gulf-stream  was  delightful,  until  at  length  a  famous 
combat  arose  among  the  great  opposing  elements.  For  five 
successive  days  we  had  a  continuation  of  the  most  violent  gales, 
more  properly  speaking  hurricanes,  such  as  our  officers  had 
never  experienced,  and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  I  could  recall 
reminiscences  of  equally  grand  and  awful  scenes.  The  good 
ship  Hermann,  although  obliged  to  manoeuvre,  or  lie  to,  as  the 
sailors  term  it,  for  thirty-six  hours,  at  last  got  the  mastery  over 
Neptune :  and  when  we  arrived  in  England,  we  found  that  the 
steamer  "Washington  had  been  disabled,  and  obliged  to  return. 
The  same  gales  had  carried  destruction  along  the  entire  coast. 
The  then  approaching  holiday  season  of  Christmas  was  anxiously 
looked  for,  in  England,  particularly  by  the  poor,  for  charities 
are  more  freely  exercised  at  that  time,  and  the  English  markets 
and  butchers'  stalls  are  beautiful  to  gaze  upon.     But  instances 


310  UNCLE   TOM   IN   PARIS, 

are  rarely  if  ever  known,  as  in  our  favored  land,  of  the  working 
classes  trudging  home  under  the  weight  of  turkeys,  geese,  or 
chickens  for  a  Sunday  or  Christmas  dinner.  How  little  do  we 
know  of  the  miseries  of  the  laboring  population  abroad,  and  how 
slightly  do  we  appreciate,  as  a  people,  the  eminent  advantages 
which  we  enjoy  in  our  own  favored  land  ! 

The  universal  practice  of  giving  etrennes^  or  presents,  on  jS"ew 
Year's  day,  among  the  Parisians,  has  led  to  the  granting  of 
privileges  to  boutiques,  or  temporary  wooden  shops,  along  both 
sidewalks  of  the  Boulevards,  for  one  week  before,  and  one  week 
after  the  first  of  January ;  they  form  a  continuous  bazaar  for 
more  than  a  mile,  composed  of  all  the  indescribable  knick-knacks 
and  fancy  articles  that  the  ingenious  brain  of  a  Frenchman  can 
contrive  to  gratify  youthful  taste  or  fancy,  dolls  and  cheap 
jewelry  figuring  largely.  This  exhibition,  with  the  flood  of 
humanity  to  the  extent  of  some  hundreds  of  thousands,  military, 
foreign,  and  domestic,  in  every  variety  of  costume  of  holiday 
attire,  added  to  the  gay  equipages  and  liveried  servants,  struck 
me  as  one  of  the  great  sights  of  the  capital. 

The  season  thus  flxr  has  been  remarkably  mild ;  we  have  had 
much  rain,  but  no  winter,  and  fears  are  entertained  for  the 
future  crops  should  the  mild  weather  continue.  In  the  Jardin 
des  Plantes,  some  trees  indicate  the  putting  forth  of  new  leaves. 

This  being  the  gay  season,  and  Paris  full  of  strangers  from 
all  parts,  opportunity  is  not  wanting  for  the  gratification  of  the 
most  fastidious.  One  would  judge,  from  the  announcement  of 
balls,  concerts,  and  theatres  (of  which  latter  I  think  there  are 
thirty-two,  of  all  sizes),  that  they  could  not  be  sustained  ;  but  on 
the  contrary  they  are  fully  attended.  The  work  of  Madame 
Beecher  Stowe  has  caused  a  perfect  furore  in  Paris.  Authors 
and  editors  run  a  steeple-chase  in  their  hasty  translations,  which 
pour  from  the  press  with  exaggerated  engravings  to  gratif)^  the 
tastes  of  the  eager  purchasers.  Two  large  rival  theatres,  the 
Ambigu  Comique  and  the  Theatre  de  la  Oaite,  conceived  at  the 
same  moment  the  idea  of  dramatizing  Uncle  Tom.  The  Ambigu 
won  the  race  by  a  few  da3''s  with  immense  success,  but  the  Gaite 
followed  close  after ;  and  now  may  be  seen  the  affiches  every- 
where, and  large  transparencies  in  front  of  the  theatres,  embla- 
zoned in  great  letters,  "  La  Case  de  VOncle  Torrid  My  curiosity 
as  an  American,  besides  my  familiarity  with  the  institution  of 


MARRIAGE   OF   THE   EMPEROR.  311 

slavery  as  it  exists  at  the  south,  induced  me  to  visit  the  Ambigu, 
where  I  found  the  piece  well  mounted,  with  superb  decorations, 
but  full  of  exaggeration.  The  cries  of  the  blood-hounds  in  pur- 
suit of  fugitive  slaves ;  the  brutal  conduct  of  the  masters ;  the 
tender  scenes  of  separation ;  the  discharge  of  fire-arms ;  the 
sale  of  negroes  in  New  Orleans,  all  helped  to  bring  the  ladies' 
handkerchiefs  into  frequent  use ;  their  tears,  however,  were 
readily  dispersed  by  some  ludicrous  scene  not  in  the  novel.  At 
the  Gaiie  the  scenes  are  entirely  changed,  the  state  of  Kentucky 
being  the  theatre  of  action.  The  sale  of  Uncle  Tom,  the  flight 
of  George  and  his  wife,  Eliza  with  her  infant  child,  the  crossing 
of  the  Ohio  upon  the  ice,  the  arrival  in  Canada,  the  land  of 
promise,  amidst  the  most  beautiful  tropical  vegetation,  were 
greatly  exaggerated ;  but  worse  than  all,  and  shocking  to  the 
moral  sense.  Uncle  Tom,  who  was  a  perfect  black,  was  repre- 
sented as  the  father  of  Eliza,  a  beautiful  quadroon.  One  of  the 
Parisian  editors  lately  remarked  that  he  was  not  at  a  loss  to 
decide  which  condition  was  the  most  deplorable,  that  of  the 
well-fed  and  well- clad  negro  in  bondage,  free  from  care,  or  that 
of  the  thousands  of  poor  creatures  in  Paris,  who  shiver  in  the 
garret  of  a  six-story  tenement,  after  a  hard  day's  service  for  one 
franc,  or  twenty  cents,  to  sustain  their  starving  families. 

The  Parisians  are  emphatically  a  theatre-going  people,  and 
they  have  juvenile  theatres  expressly  for  nurses  and  parents 
with  their  children;  of  course  the  latter  imbibe  the  passion 
early,  and  Sunday  being  their  gala  day,  all  places  of  amusement 
are  naturally  crowded.  It  would  appear  that  all  Paris  is  danc- 
ing at  present ;  the  imperial  court  dances,  the  ministers  of  war 
and  of  state  dance,  and  the  senate  is  preparing  to  dance,  all  of 
which  is  gratifying  to  the  fancy  dealers  of  the  capital.  The 
great  event  of  the  season  took  place  yesterday,  Sunday.  It  was 
the  marriage  of  the  Emperor  at  the  cathedral  of  Notre  Dame. 
The  civil  marriage  was  performed  at  the  Palace  of  the  Tuileries, 
the  evening  previous,  by  the  minister  of  state,  in  presence  of  the 
family  of  Napoleon.  After  the  ceremony  was  concluded  the 
Countess  Montijo  was  reconducted  to  her  private  residence  in  the 
Champs  Elysees,  Yesterday  presented  one  of  the  most  gorgeous 
pageants  that  P.^ris  has  ever  witnessed.  It  would  occupy  too 
much  time  and  space  to  attempt  a  description,  and  it  would  be 
useless  to  repeat  what  may  be  found  in  the  public  journals. 


812  THE   PROCESSION. 

The  distance  passed  by  the  cortege  from  the  Tuileries  to  Notre 
Dame,  more  than  a  mile,  gave  the  Emperor,  as  he  proclaimed  in 
his  speech,  to  the  Senate,  an  opportunity  of  presenting  as  he 
desired,  to  the  army,  and  the  French  people,  the  bride  of  his 
choice,  and  if  one  could  judge  from  the  vast  multitude  which, 
thronged  the  streets,  the  quays  and  bridges  of  the  Seine,  the 
windows,  balconies,  and  every  point  which  could  be  occupied, 
not  only  Paris,  but  the  whole  country  was  represented.  The 
brilliant  cortege  left  the  palace  at  twelve  M.,  preceded  by  detach- 
ments of  mounted  lancers,  cuirassiers,  guards,  and  divers  others, 
followed  by  the  imperial  family  and  ladies  of  honor,  in  glittering 
state  carriages  with  liveried  coachmen  and  footmen,  drawn  by 
four  and  six  horses  with  beautiful  caparisoned  harness,  and  a 
long  train  of  foreign  ambassadors,  representatives  and  members 
of  the  Senate ;  then  appeared  the  magnificent  equipage  of  the 
Emperor,  surmounted  by  an  imperial  crown,  with  sides  of  plate 
glass,  drawn  by  eight  white  steeds,  with  plumes  and  gold-gilt 
trappings,  containing  himself  and  beautiful  bride,  responding 
gracefully  to  the  salutations  of  the  multitude.  The  same  carriage 
was  used  but  once  before,  at  the  nuptial  ceremonies  of  Napoleon 
I.  with  the  Empress  Josephine,  so  much  beloved  by  the  French 
people.  A  double  hedge  of  bayonets  on  each  side  of  the  line  of 
march,  composed  of  the  regular  troops  of  the  national  guard  of 
Paris,  prevented  encroachment.  The  interior  of  Notre  Dame  was 
festooned  with  great  taste  and  much  splendor,  while  the  exterior 
was  enveloped  in  floating  banners.  The  archbishop  having  per- 
formed the  imposing  marriage  ceremonies,  the  cortege  returned 
by  another  route,  giving  the  masses  the  opportunity  of  seeing 
their  imperial  majesties. 

The  vast  interior  of  the  Place  de  Carrousel  was  one  living  mass 
of  humanity,  awaiting  the  return  and  appearance  of  the  happy 
pair  upon  the  balcony  of  the  Tuileries ;  at  length  they  appeared 
and  bowed  to  the  multitude  to  close  the  scene.  While  men  and 
boys  were  crying  the  sale  of  effigies  and  medals  of  the  Emperor 
and  Empress,  amid  the  anxiety  and  excitement  of  a  French  popu- 
lation, I  could  not  forget  witnessing  a  review  of  the  troops  by 
Louis  Philippe,  on  the  same  ground,  and  his  then  enthusiastic 
reception.  Time  makes  great  changes,  and  what  may  be  the  fate 
of  those  in  power  to-day !  The  French  are  fond  of  pageants,  and 
always  ready  for  a  change.    As  long  as  commerce  flourishes,  and 


LOUIS  napoleon's  career.  313 

the  condition  of  the  laboring  classes  is  tolerable,  things  go  on 
smoothly;  but  amongst  the  thinking  and  reading  portions  of 
the  community,  who  are  deprived  of  the  liberty  of  speech,  and 
the  press,  there  must  be  a  deep  hatred  of  the  present  dynasty. 

Louis  Napoleon  has  certainly  had  an  eventful  career.  An 
exile,  a  prisoner  at  Ham,  he  returned  to  France  after  the  fall 
of  Louis  Philippe,  under  the  provisionary  government,  and  was 
a  member  of  the  National  Assembly  when  I  visited  that  noisy 
assemblage  in  the  autumn  of  1848.  On  my  departure  for  Italy 
in  1847,  all  was  quiet  under  the  royal  rule  of  Louis  Philippe ; 
on  my  return,  the  trees  of  liberty  were  planted  throughout  Paris, 
the  public  buildings  proclaimed  in  large  capitals,  '■'■  Liberie,^ 
Egalite^  Fraternite ;  the  press  was  free  and  untrammelled,  also 
liberty  of  thought  and  speech,  as  was  seen  placarded  upon  the 
bulletins.  Things  have  changed.  Liberty  is  crushed ;  her 
name,  with  those  of  her  sisters,  is  scrupulously  effaced  from  the 
public  monuments.  The  constitution  was  declared,  and  there 
was  an  extensive  display  of  two  hundred  thousand  troops,  and 
gorgeous  decorations  and  fireworks  upon  the  Place  de  la  Con- 
corde. I  hoped  that  the  government  would  become  consolidated 
in  a  true  republic,  but  I  had  my  misgivings.  The  next  news 
brought  the  election  of  Napoleon  as  President  for  four  years ; 
afterwards  his  power  was  extended  for  ten  years ;  next  came  his 
famous  coup  d'etat;  then  followed  the  proclamation  of  the 
Empire,  and  yesterday  his  marriage.  The  telegraph  has  pro- 
claimed the  joyous  event  to  all  France,  and  now  all  that  is 
required  is  the  confirmation  by  the  Pope,  which  may  probably 
take  place  next  spring. 

Within  a  week  the  Carnival  commences.  I  am  preparing  to 
leave  for  the  south  of  France,  and  Spain 


LXXXII. 


Barcelona,  Spain,  Feb.  28,  1853. 
After  the  marriage  of  the  French  Emperor  in  Paris,  whence 
I  wrote  you  last  month,  we  had  nothing  remarkable  until  the 
Carnival,  and  nothing  notable  then  except  the  fete  du  hoeuf  gras, 
or  the  Sunday  promenade  of  the  fat  ox.  This  novel  ceremony 
seems  to  be  a  vestige  of  remote  antiquity,  and  has  been  preserved 


314  FETE   DU  BCEUF   GRAS. 

up  to  the  present  time,  as  it  gives  tlie  multitude  an  opportunity 
of  diverting  themselves.  It  appears  that  the  poor  fishermen  of 
Luiece  formerly  adored  the  zodiacal  bull,  and  as  late  as  1711, 
in  constructing  a  sepulchre  under  the  choir  of  the  church  of 
Notre  Dame^  several  has-reliefs  were  found,  one  of  which  repre- 
sented a  bull  clothed  in  sacred  orders.  It  is  the  remains  of  the 
equinoctial  spring  ceremonies,  when  the  sun  entered  into  the 
zodiacal  sign  called  Taurus,  and  the  people  of  the  agricultural 
provinces  conducted  the  bull  in  great  pomp  with  the  sound  of 
various  musical  instruments.  This  being  altogether  novel,  I 
must  describe  it  to  you.  The  procession  was  got  up  by  the 
butchers  of  Paris,  who  formed  a  cavalcade  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  persons  on  horseback,  provided  with  various  costumes, 
from  the  time  of  the  crusades  down  to  the  court  robes  of  Louis 
XIV.,  and  guards  of  the  Emperor  Napoleon.  This  procession, 
with  bands  of  music,  was  followed  by  an  immense  fat  ox  called 
Pere  Tom,  or  Uncle  Tom,  raised  in  Normandy,  decorated  with 
bouquets  of  flowers,  ribbons,  and  laurels,  followed  by  an 
immense  gilded  car  drawn  by  six  white  horses,  with  the  figures 
of  several  heathen  deities,  Yenus  being  surrounded  by  a  bevy 
of  young  girls,  dressed  in  white  with  garlands  of  flowers.  The 
day  was  occupied  in  their  visits  throughout  Paris,  to  the  imperial 
palace,  the  various  ministers  of  the  empire  and  foreign  embas- 
sies, the  police  departments ;  and  finally  the  poor  beast,  having 
slowly  dragged  his  heavy  carcass  of  two  thousand  three  hundred 
pounds  about  town  for  the  amusement  of  the  populace,  brought 
up  at  the  abattoir^  or  general  slaughtering  establishment  of  the 
city. 

Indications  of  approaching  cold  weather  after  the  extremely 
mild  season,  induced  me  turn  my  face  towards  Spain.  The 
raih'oad  from  Paris  soon  conducted  me  to  Chalons^  upon  the 
/Sbone,  whence  I  took  steamer  the  next  day  for  Lyons,  the  great 
silk-manufacturing  city  of  France.  Small  steamers  are  employed 
upon  these  rivers ;  they  are  constructed  of  iron,  very  long,  but 
exceedingly  narrow,  not  much  wider  than  an  ordinary  Erie 
Canal  boat,  but  with  the  strong  current  they  dash  along  at  a 
frightful  rate  when  the  rivers  are  full.  They  are  provided  with 
jointed  smoke  pipes,  to  pass  the  numerous  bridges. 

On  one  occasion  descending  the  Rhine  we  were  obliged  to  lie- 
to,  not  being  able  to  pass  under  the  crossings  from  the  heavy 


BARCELONA.  315 

inundations,  but  in  this  instance  tlie  want  of  water  prevented 
our  continuing  further  than  Valence ;  I  took  the  diligence  some 
sixty  miles  to  Avignon,  where  the  railroad  conducts  us  to  Mar- 
seilles. The  sail  upon  the  Saone  and  Ehone,  with  their  nume- 
rous manufactories,  agricultural  towns,  and  villages,  and  wine 
districts,  is  quite  entertaining  to  the  traveller.  A  large  popu- 
lation is  engaged  in  the  culture  of  the  grape,  but  I  have 
seen  only  two  drunken  men  since  I  have  been  in  France,  and 
those  seemed  to  be  the  amusement  of  groups  of  boys  and  men 
who  surrounded  them.  We  were  caught  by  the  first  snow- 
storm of  the  season,  and  the  mistral  blew  with  its  full  force. 
The  almond  trees  in  blossom  felt  its  effects ;  it  will  probably 
shorten  the  crop. 

This  being  my  third  visit  to  Marseilles,  I  have  nothing  to 
write  about  it,  except  its  progressive  condition  in  commercial 
importance.  The  new  port,  in  course  of  construction,  an  extra- 
ordinary enterprise,  is  progressing  rapidly.  The  old  port,  which 
was  small  and  crowded  to  excess,  rendering  vessels  liable  to 
entire  destruction  in  case  of  fire,  and  the  difficulty  of  egress, 
induced  the  creating  of  an  artificial  port  of  solid  masonry. 
Two  days'  delay  gave  me  an  opportunity  of  embarking  for  this 
city,  where  I  find  a  temperate  climate,  being  sheltered  from  the 
northern  blasts  by  the  high  mountains  of  the  Pyrenees. 

Barcelona,  for  size,  is  the  second  city  in  Spain,  and  the  first  in 
importance  for  manufactures.  It  is  a  walled  town  with  ramparts 
as  promenades  around  it,  closely  built,  narrow,  and  rather 
intricate  streets,  and  tall  houses,  mostly  of  stone.  The  Muralla 
or  sea  wall  affords  a  good  promenade,  and  a  fine  view  of  a 
harbor  rather  indifferent  for  vessels  of  heavy  tonnage,  with  a 
commanding  fortification  called  Mont  Juich  on  the  summit  of  a 
high  hill  overlooking  the  sea  and  the  city ;  the  latter  is  cleanly 
kept,  and  in  good  order,  and  well  worth  a  visit.  The  suburbs 
of  the  city  for  some  miles  are  occupied  in  part  by  manufacturing 
villages,  and  among  the  number  is  a  large  town  called  Gracia, 
resorted  to  by  summer  residents  to  escape  the  heat  of  the  city  ; 
it  is  a  pleasant  retreat.  The  population  of  the  city  and  suburbs 
is  two  hundred  thousand.  The  province  of  Catalonia  is  perhaps 
the  most  industrious  and  enterprising  portion  of  Spain.  The 
Catalonians,  whose  language  is  a  patois^  pride  themselves  in 
being   more   advanced   than   the  Castilians.     In  1835  the  first 


816  THEATRES  AND  CAFES. 

Steam-engine  was  introduced  in  manufacturing,  and  from  tlie 
unfounded  prejudice  of  the  working  classes  the  establishment 
was  destroyed  by  the  populace.  But  at  present  steam  is  freely 
used,  the  supply  of  coal  being  brought  from  England ;  the 
mountains  of  Spain  abound  with  the  article,  but  the  want  of 
communication  precludes  a  supply  from  this  source.  Eailroads 
are  being  introduced  moderately ;  the  only  one  yet  constructed 
in  this  department  is  from  Barcelona  to  Mataro,  a  town  along 
the  coast.  It  runs  along  the  sea-shore  some  seven  leagues, 
passing  through  fishing  villages. 

The  Spaniards  are  famous  for  their  public  promenades  or 
almedas,  and  the  Rambla  is  the  chief  attraction.  It  presents  a 
gay,  picturesque  sight  on  Sunday,  when  thronged  with  all 
classes  in  the  holiday  attire  of  the  country.  The  two  principal 
theatres  are  situated  upon  this  promenade,  as  well  as  the  great 
hotels,  which  gives  one  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  sights 
from  the  balconies.  The  Barcelonians  boast  of  the  largest 
theatre  and  the  most  luxurious  cafes  in  the  world.  Certainly 
the  Eliseo  is  nearly  or  quite  as  large  as  La  Scala  in  Milan. 
The  club  room,  called  the  circuh,  and  the  casino,  adjoining  the 
opera  and  theatre,  are  fitted  up  with  great  taste,  containing 
libraries,  and  many  periodicals  of  the  day  from  France  and 
England.  There  is  a -numerous  French  population  here,  and 
the  character  of  the  people  is  not  so  decidedly  Spanish  as  further 
south.  In  times  of  reaction  or  opposition  to  the  government, 
tbis  place  is  generally  at  the  head  of  the  movement.  This  is 
perhaps  attributable  to  the  superior  intelligence  of  the  people, 
and  to  its  proximity  to  France.  The  direct  commerce  is  trifling 
with  the  United  States  in  Am-erican  bottoms,  but  the  exporta- 
tion of  wine,  oil,  soap,  brandy,  and  dried  fruits,  is  very  large  ; 
these  articles  are  sent  to  Havana  in  Spanish  vessels,  which  in 
return  bring  cargoes  of  cotton  and  sugar  from  the  Southern 
States  and  Cuba. 

The  American  corvette  Levant  is  now  here,  having  been  de- 
tained some  time  with  small-pox  on  board  ;  her  destination  is  our 
naval  station  at  Spezzia.  The  health  of  the  crew  is  now  good, 
and  the  ship  is  looking  finely.  I  was  kindly  received  by  the 
officers ;  and  the  Levant  being  the  only  American  ship  in  port, 
and  myself  the  only  American  traveller  here  at  present,  it  was 
gratifying  to  be  once  again  under  the  protection  of  the  stars  and 


BULL   FIGHTS,  317 

Stripes.  The  climate  is  mild,  but  tlie  mornings  and  nights  are 
cool.  One  would  suppose,  from  the  manner  in  which  the  Cata- 
lonians  are  enveloped  in  their  large  Spanish  cloaks,  which  cover 
their  noses,  that  the  thermometer  was  below  zero,  while  the  same 
atmosphere  in  ISTew  York,  in  the  month  of  April,  would  be 
considered  delightful.  Strange  as  it  may  appear,  in  our  hotel, 
with  seventy  rooms,  there  is  not  a  chimney ;  and  when  fire  is 
absolutely  required,  we  make  use  of  braseros,  a  flat  brass  vessel 
with  raised  edges,  which  contains  live  coals,  and  ashes  from  well 
burned  wood,  in  place  of  charcoal,  to  avoid  suffocation  from 
the  gases. 

The  chief  amusements  are  the  promenades,  cafes^  opera, 
theatres,  and  bull  fights,  at  all  of  which  the  fair  senoritas  assist. 
The  bull  fights  I  described  fully  last  year  from  Peru.  They  are 
not  so  famous  here  either  for  their  bulls  or  swordsmen  as  in 
Seville  or  Madrid ;  neither  will  the  ladies  compare  for  beauty 
with  the  graceful  Andalusians.  In  all  public  places  you  are 
enveloped  in  cigar  smoke ;  the  lobbies  of  the  opera  during  the 
scenes  are  filled  with  devotees  of  the  weed,  whose  smoke  pene- 
trates throughout  the  house,  and  by  common  consent  is  tolerated 
in  all  public  and  private  houses  and  conveyances. 

The  lower  orders  are  poor ;  they  fare  meagrely,  and  are 
poorly  rewarded  for  their  labor.  The  city  is  not  remarkable  for 
its  public  monuments.  The  cathedral  is  a  noble  Gothic  structure, 
and  possesses  some  works  of  art,  but  it  would  be  idle  to  compare 
it  or  the  other  churches  with  those  of  Italy. 


LXXXIII. 


Palma,  Island  of  Majorca,  March  10,  1853. 
My  last  letter  was  from  Barcelona.  I  was  then  preparing  to 
visit  this  island,  and  notwithstanding  its  proximity  (it  is  only  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  distant)  and  its  belonging  to  Spain,  one 
has  to  go  through  all  the  silly  formalities  of  procuring  a  Spanish 
passport,  with  the  vise  of  the  American  Consul,  and  a  certificate 
of  health  from  the  Casa  de  Sanidad,  which  latter  is  a  sure  and 
easy  mode  of  robbing  the  traveller.  I  embarked  on  board  of  a 
small  weekly  steamer  for  Palma,  the  capital  city,  on  the  south 
side  of  the  island,  situated  upon  a  deep  bay,  and  having  a  good 


318  PALMA. 

and  secure  harbor  for  large  vessels,  and  a  fair  trade  with 
Havana.  I  was  agreeably  surprised  in  finding  a  city  of  forty 
thousand  persons,  occupying  a  healthy  and  eligible  position, 
with  many  fine  public  buildings,  some  of  which  are  very 
antique,  denoting  its  great  commerical  importance  when  it 
enjoyed  the  trade  of  the  Levant. 

By  reference  to  my  books  I  find  that  the  Eomans  granted  it 
the  privilege  of  a  colony ;  it  was  afterwards  conquered  by  the 
Arabs,  who  made  it  the  residence  of  their  kings,  and  it  continued 
such  after  the  conquest  of  Don  Jayme  the  First,  of  Aragon,  in 
the  year  1229,  and  its  most  extraordinary  monument  of  that 
period,  commenced  during  his  reign,  is  the  citadel,  upon  the 
summit  of  a  high  hill,  about  one  mile  from  the  city,  command- 
ing a  most  extensive  view  of  the  town  and  sea.  In  the  centre 
of  it,  passing  over  a  deep  and  wide  moat,  by  a  drawbridge,  one 
enters  a  tower  of  Cyclopean  construction,  of  great  height,  and 
by  easy  circular  stairs  of  heavy  stone  arrives  at  the  summit, 
from  which  the  eye  beholds  one  of  the  most  magnificent 
prospects  of  the  entire  valley  and  the  suburbs  of  the  city,  dotted 
with  cottages,  and  olive  and  almond  trees  in  blossom.  From 
the  prisons  within  there  was  no  escape,  particularly  from  the 
lower  one,  where  the  culprit  passes  a  final  trap,  never  to  be 
withdrawn. 

Some  comfortable  quarters  are  fitted  up  for  the  use  of  the 
governor  during  the  heat  of  summer.  The  polite  and  civil 
colonel  of  the  governor's  staff  conducted  me  in  his  cabriolet 
with  the  aid  of  an  extra  mule,  nearly  to  the  summit.  I  have 
received,  by  the  by,  man}'-  marks  of  courtesy  from  the  com- 
mandant of  the  marine  as  well  as  other  Spanish  officers  in 
Barcelona,  to  whom  I  was  recommended,  notwithstanding  that 
our  national  character  has  suffered  through  the  acts  of  the  fili- 
busters in  the  island  of  Cuba.  The  houses  and  the  streets  of 
the  city  are  clean,  and  the  population  industrious  ;  the  hotels  are 
poor.  The  chief  branches  of  industry  are  those  of  the  zapateros, 
or  shoemakers,  whose  work  is  exported  to  Havana,  and  the 
abundant  supply  of  olive  oil  for  the  manufactories  in  the 
suburbs,  of  the  famous  castile  soap.  The  exportation  of  wine^ 
dried  fruit,  and  almonds,  is  also  very  considerable.  The  lan- 
guage of  the  country  is  the  Mallorquin,  a  patois  of  the  Arab, 
Spanish,    and   French   languages ;    the  common  people  do  not 


SOLER.  819 

speak  the  Castilian.  One  of  the  finest  estates  is  that  of  the 
Concie  de  Monte  Negro,  about  three  hours'  drive  from  town. 
The  Cardinal  Monte  Negro,  now  deceased,  while  at  Rome  made 
a  famous  collection  of  antique  statues,  and  founded  a  museum 
on  his  estate,  which  is  surrounded  by  valleys  of  orange,  almond, 
and  olive  trees,  with  vineyards  upon  amphitheatred  walled 
patches  of  earth  extending  up  the  mountain  side,  and  affording 
the  most  changeable  and  picturesque  views  imaginable. 

The  little  town  of  Soler,  some  five  leagues  distant,  on  the 
north  side  of  the  island,  with  a  population  of  eight  thousand,  is 
almost  entirely  dependent  upon  the  culture  of  the  orange.  The 
high  mountain  over  which  one  crosses  is  unproductive,  but  the 
valleys  are  extremely  fertile,  and  the  scenery  is  varied.  The 
roads  are  indifferent ;  their  zigzag  windings  and  tropical  views 
bring  to  mind  the  mountains  of  Caraccas,  and  the  heights  of 
Brazil,  and  although  I  rode  behind  a  mule,  in  a  rude  sort  of  gig 
without  springs,  with  low  cover  to  protect  me  from  the  sun's 
rays,  not  sufficiently  elevated  to  wear  a  hat,  my  driver  perched 
upon  a  rude  box  at  the  tail  of  the  mule,  with  a  cudgel  in  hand, 
now  yelling  hideously  expecting  to  increase  his  speed,  then 
jumping  down  in  disgust  at  the  obstinacy  of  the  animal,  and 
trudging  along  on  foot,  I  felt  fully  compensated  by  the  magni- 
ficent prospect  in  the  distance,  and  a  growing  appetite  for  even 
a  Spanish  dinner,  tinctured  with  oil  and  garlic.  My  driver 
attempted  to  describe  the  objects  about  us  in  Spanish,  but  find- 
ing himself  embarrassed,  he  branched  off  in  his  own  jargon, 
presuming  that  I  understood  him  perfectly. 

I  had  ridden  through  orange  groves  on  horseback  in  the 
West  Indies,  plucking  the  fruit  in  passing,  but  I  was  not  prepared 
for  a  league  square  of  orange  trees  loaded  with  their  golden 
crop,  the  branches  extending  over  the  walls,  uniting  and  form- 
ing an  arcade  across  the  narrow  streets  on  entering  the  town. 
Soler  is  situated  about  two  miles  from  the  port,  along  the  banks 
of  a  mountain  torrent,  the  sides  of  which  are  strewed  with 
fallen  oranges. 

This  is  the  fruit  season,  and  many  small  vessels  are  employed 
in  carrying  cargoes  to  Marseilles,  and  other  ports  in  France  and 
Spain.  Those  that  are  picked  by  hand  and  delivered  on  board^ 
are  worth  two  rials  vellon,  say  ten  cents  per  hundred  ;  such  as  fall 
from  the  trees,  detached  by  the  wind,  are  worth  the  same  price 


820  SPANISH   PEASANTRY. 

for  five  hundred.  I  was  struck  with  the  fine  faces  of  the  children, 
and  the  Arabic  tj^pe  and  complexion  of  the  women.  The  people 
are  poor  but  industrious,  and  their  wants  are  few.  Thej  have 
bread,  some  meats,  gaj^abanzas,  a  species  of  pea  much  in  use, 
with  oil  and  wine ;  the  latter,  of  the  choicest  quality,  is  called 
malvoisia,  or  albafior,  and  enjoys  a  high  reputation  in  Barcelona. 
The  little  port  is  round  as  a  bowl,  and  placid  as  a  lake,  entirely 
protected,  and  landlocked  with  high  projecting  cliffs  above  its 
narrow  and  bold  entrance,  and  bears  resemblance  in  miniature 
to  Acapulco,  on  the  Pacific  coast.  A  few  fishermen  only  reside 
there,  and  a  few  small  orange  vessels  are  seen. 

The  peasants  of  the  country  are  very  primitive  in  their 
costume,  wearing  broad-brimmed  conical  hats,  and  long  panta- 
loons, girded  about  the  loins,  with  goat  skins  which  cover 
their  shoulders ;  holes  are  cut  in  the  side  of  the  undressed  hide 
to  pass  their  arms  through,  and  the  entire  form  of  the  reddish- 
brown  skin,  with  the  tail  in  some  instances,  is  suspended  down 
the  back,  presenting  a  grotesque  appearance.  The  women  wear 
men's  straw  hats,  with  handkerchiefs  round  the  head  and  under 
the  chin,  and  round,  white,  expanding  collars,  falling  a  foot  in 
length,  with  a  priestly  look,  and  the  groups  of  both  sexes  on  foot, 
and  mounted  upon  donkeys,  carrying  panniers  loaded  with 
charcoal,  wood,  and  products  of  the  soil,  form  a  droll  caravan. 
Their  copper  coins  are  about  the  size  of  small  dress-coat  button, 
and  nine  of  them  are  given  for  a  rial  vellon,  valued  at  five  cents  ; 
and  singular  as  it  may  appear,  the  people  refuse  the  copper  coin 
of  the  main  land,  while  the  circulation  of  five  franc  pieces  is 
current  here,  as  also  in  Spain.  The  old-fashioned  pistareen,  or 
peseta,  is  in  general  use.  In  most  things  they  are  full  a  century 
behind  the  age,  but  the  light  of  civilization  is  beginning  to  extend 
here  as  on  the  main  land.  The  climate  is  delightful,  nature 
prolific,  and  the  people  in  general  honest,  civil,  and  polite.  I 
could  prolong  my  stay  with  pleasure,  visiting  other  portions  of 
the  island,  but  I  must  not,  as  I  proceed  to  Valencia,  which  lies 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  opposite,  on  the  Spanish  coast. 


VALENCIA.  321 


LXXXIY. 


Valencia,  Spain,  March  22,  1858. 

I  AM  in  the  ancient  city  of  Valencia,  surrounded  by  many 
antique  buildings  and  relics  of  Moorish  architecture  peculiar  to 
the  south  of  Spain.  The  city  contains  a  population  of  sixty 
thousand,  and  has  a  fine  old  cathedral,  from  the  tower  of  which 
is  seen  to  advantage  the  verdure  of  the  valley  in  the  extreme 
distance,  irrigated  by  water  drawn  from  a  mountain  torrent 
which  passes  near  the  city,  and  which  at  this  season  presents 
little  but  a  gravelly  bed.  The  mulberry  is  cultivated  largely, 
and  the  production  of  silk  and  velvet  is  the  most  important 
branch  of  industry.  There  are  many  churches  adorned  with 
fine  old  paintings  by  the  Spanish  masters.  The  ceilings  of 
two  large  saloons  in  the  Casa  de  la  Ciudad^  or  City  Hall,  are  of 
heavy  timbers,  about  a  foot  apart,  and  ornamented  with  an 
infinity  of  carved  allegorical  figures  of  most  exquisite  work- 
manship, in  a  high  state  of  preservation ;  they  belong  to  the 
thirteenth  century,  and  differ  from  anything  I  have  evei^  seen 
before.  Notwithstanding  the  foreign  and  civil  wars,  the  code 
of  laws  of  that  period,  written  on  parchment  and  illuminated 
with  the  most  precious  designs  and  colors,  is  almost  as  perfect  as 
when  written.  The  city  library,  of  four  thousand  volumes,  has 
also  some  of  these  gems  of  antiquity,  the  labor  of  a  lifetime, 
executed  in  the  calm  and  quiet  cloister  of  the  monk,  free  from' 
the  cares  and  anxieties  of  the  world.  Aside  from  museums, 
churches,  paintings,  statues,  and  Moorish  architecture,  my  time 
has  been  employed  in  visiting  the  public  institutions  of  the  city, 
and  the  manufacturing  establishments  peculiar  to  the  country. 

The  Presidio,  or  state  prison,  which  has  two  thousand  con- 
victs, each  of  whom  has  his  occupation  in  the  different  depart- 
ments, reminded  me  of  Sing  Sing,  with  this  exception  :  that 
here  almost  all  branches  of  industry  are  prosecuted,  and  often  to 
the  detriment  of  the  poor  free  mechanic,  which  is  not  the  case 
with  us.  The  most  interesting  portion  of  their  employments  is 
the  weaving  of  velvets  of  rich  colors.  The  manufacture  of  our 
staple  cotton  enters  largely  into  the  production  of  common  cloth ; 
basket-work,  shoe-making,  blacksmithing,  and  the  making  of 
chairs  and  furniture  are  important  branches,  also.     The  kitchen. 

21 


322  THE   STATE   PRISON  AND   HOSPITAL. 

department,  and  the  extreme  cleanliness  of  the  whole  institution, 
refute  the  charge  of  filthiness,  so  frequently  alleged  against  the 
Spanish  race.  Not  a  soldier  is  employed  ;  the  prisoners  stand 
sentinel  over  each  other.  No  cells  are  used ;  the  mattresses  are 
rolled  up  and  suspended  according  to  number,  to  be  spread  in 
large  airy  halls.  The  obstreperous  and  unruly  wear  chains ; 
they  seem  to  be  easily  governed,  although  many  hard  subjects 
are  found  among  them.  The  hospital  is  an  immense  establish- 
ment, covering  a  large  extent  of  surface;  it  comprises  three 
departments,  for  the  infirm,  the  reception  of  new-born  infants, 
and  the  lunatic  asylum,  and  contains  in  all  some  six  hundred 
persons  of  both  sexes.  The  sick  are  in  charge  of  sisters  of 
charity,  whose  devotion  is  well  known.  I  can  scarcely  say 
what  is  most  painful  in  this  establishment — the  groans  of  the 
sick  and  suffering,  the  pitiful  cries  of  the  new-born  and  aban- 
doned infants,  or  the  wild  ravings  of  the  maniacs.  Certainly 
sympathy  is  excited,  and  our  moral  nature  is  exercised,  but  we 
experience  a  sensible  relief  in  escaping  the  inclosure  of  so  much 
concentrated  miser3^  The  same  system  is  practised  here  as  was 
unti]»recently  in  Paris ;  the  poor  or  culpable  mother  puts  her 
charge  upon  the  revolving  wheel,  which  places  it  in  the  hands 
of  the  nurses,  for  whom  there  is  one  large  apartment ;  there  are 
forty  of  these  nurses,  each  one  in  charge  of  three  suspended 
cradles  rocking  upon  a  pivot  from  the  walls.  The  arrangements 
are  perfect,  but  the  pitiful  cries  of  one  hundred  and  twenty 
infants  of  tender  ages  induced  me  to  pass  hastily  to  the  apart- 
ment of  the  larger  children  ;  I  saw  groups  of  them  at  table,  of 
the  ages  of  two  years  and  upwards ;  they  appeared  happy  and 
joyous. 

The  insane  were  classed  according  to  their  malady,  in  different 
departments  ;  there  were  some  fifty  at  dinner  when  we  entered, 
who  behaved  well.  In  the  next  apartment,  containing  about 
twenty,  we  were  addressed  by  one  who  had  in  hand  a  bowl  of 
pottage,  and  who,  in  the  most  eloquent  and  appealing  language, 
complained  loudly  of  barbarous  and  despotic  treatment,  and 
want  of  nourishment ;  the  keeper  replied  in  reproachful  terms, 
when  a  combat  commenced  between  them  which  threatened  to 
compromise  our  safety,  as  the  maniac  got  the  advantage  of  our 
guide,  who  escaped  with  the  blood  trickling  down  his  scratched 
figure.     We  pacified  the  surrounding  group   with  presents  of 


TOBACCO   WORKS.  323 

cigars,  wliicli  they  sought  for  eagerly ;  in  the  next  department 
they  were  the  most  violent,  and  were  placed  in  chains,  with 
their  arms  strapped  and  rendered  powerless  ;  they  begged  lamen- 
tably to  be  released  from  captivity.  Iron  cages  still  exist  in  the 
prison,  but  the  use  of  them  is  now  abandoned  ;  not  so  in  Egj^pt, 
where  I  saw  the  poor  maniacs  in  cells  like  wild  beasts,  in  a  state 
of  nudity,  with  collars  about  their  necks,  attached  by  a  chain, 
and  climbing  the  iron  bars. 

The  article  of  tobacco  in  Spain  is  a  government  monopoly, 
and  various  manufacturers  of  cigars  and  snuff  are  found  in  the 
principal  cities ;  the  estancos,  or  shops  for  their  sale,  are  ap- 
pointed throughout  the  kingdom,  producing  a  net  revenue, 
under  the  best  administration  of  affairs,  of  nine  millions  of  dol- 
lars per  annum.  The  establishment  here  is  an  immense  solid 
stone  structure,  resembling  a  palace,  three  stories  high,  and 
employing  three  thousand  eight  hundred  female  operatives  in 
making  cigars,  and  two  hundred  men  in  cutting  smoking  tobacco. 
The  director  informed  me  that  they  had  orders  ahead  to  the 
value  of  sixty  thousand  dollars,  and  had  not  hands  sufficient 
to  supply  them.  Every  department  of  the  upper  stories  is- occu- 
pied with  females,  there  being  from  six  to  eight  at  each  table ; 
these  tables  are  placed  in  double  rows  on  each  side  of  halls  some 
three  hundred  feet  in  length,  of  a  quadrangular  form  ;  the  centre 
of  the  edifice  is  an  open  court.  They  commence  at  seven  a.m., 
and  leave  at  six  p.m.,  bringing  their  simple  repast  with  them  in 
the  morning.  The  basement  is  occupied  as  store  rooms,  in 
which  are  found  all  the  different  qualities  of  Havana  and  Phi- 
lippine tobacco,  not  forgetting  eleven  mammoth  hogsheads  of 
one  thousand  pounds  each,  which  I  recognised  readily  as  the 
staple  of  Kentucky  and  Virginia.  I  once  visited  the  factory  at 
Seville,  where  eighteen  hundred  females  are  employed,  and 
thought  it  an  extraordinary  sight ;  but  I  was  astonished  to  see 
such  masses  of  the  tender  sex  as  were  here,  and  the  amount  of 
work  they  performed. 

The  entire  process  of  the  silk  manufacture,  from  the  opening 
of  the  cocoon  to  the  making  of  stuffs  for  ladies'  robes,  is  an 
interesting  study.  One  large  and  well  regulated  factory  that  I 
visited  employs  from  two  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred 
females.  In  the  upper  story  of  this  building  are  seen  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  girls,  placed  in  rooms  sixty  feet  long,  with  a 


324.  SILK   AND   PORCELAIN   WORKS. 

permanently  set  kettle  in  brickwork,  and  pipes  of  hot  and  cold 
water  supplied  by  the  engine  pumps.  The  cocoons  are  put  into 
the  warm  water  and  circulated  with  small  brush  brooms ;  the 
silk  attaches  itself  to  the  fibres,  and  by  motive  power  is  drawn 
off  on  reeling  machines.  The  worm  is  dislodged  from  the 
cocoon,  and  the  silk  completely  drawn  off;  it  then  passes  into 
the  hands  of  the  spinners,  and  thence  to  the  weavers,  and  finally 
appears  as  the  choice  fabric  of  Valencia. 

The  manufacture  of  porcelain  of  various  designs  and  colors, 
is  curious  for  one  not  familiar  with  the  method.  The  prepara- 
tion is  made  from  ground  clay,  moulded  as  in  our  brick  and 
pottery  works,  then  kiln-dried  for  fifteen  hours,  then  passed 
through  a  composition  of  liquids,  which  is  immediately  absorbed, 
and  which  whitens  it ;  it  then  goes  into  the  hands  of  the  artist, 
who  designs  with  a  brush  the  different  figures  and  colors ;  it  is 
then  dried  in  kilns  with  faggots,  for  sixty  hours.  The  principal 
trade  is  in  squares  for  floors  and  staircases.  Tiles  for  the  domes 
of  churches  are  also  made  of  different  colors.  Valencia  has  a 
miserable  harbor,  which  is  now  undergoing  reconstruction  ;  the 
roadstead  is  bad  and  dangerous,  and  it  is  at  times  impossible  to 
land  or  embark,  on  account  of  the  breakers.  On  landing  from 
the  steamer,  which  came  from  Barcelona,  and  which  lay  a  mile 
distant  from  the  shore,  escaping  from  the  surf  on  one  side,  we 
were  beset  by  a  clamorous  horde  of  tartana  drivers,  each  deter- 
mined to  have  his  portion  of  the  spoils.  The  luggage  has  to  be 
carried  and  examined  at  the  custom-house,  and  thence  trans- 
ported from  the  village  of  Groan  to  Valencia,  a  distance  of  three 
miles. 

The  tartana  is  an  odd-looking  and  hard  riding  vehicle ;  it  is 
the  carriage  of  the  country  for  all  classes.  I  can  only  compare  it 
to  a  butcher's  cart  without  springs;  it  has  a  baggage-wagon  top, 
seats  suspended  lengthwise,  slightly  raised  from  the  axle,  with 
heavy  netting  for  the  bottom,  and  steps  in  the  rear ;  the  driver 
has  his  seat  on  the  shafts.  The  wealthy  manage  to  fit  them  up 
with  springs,  and  have  them  cushioned  inside,  with  glass  windows 
fore  and  aft,  and  tastefully  painted ;  they  are  large  enough  for  a 
family,  and  the  captivating  glances  from  the  flashing  eyes  of  the 
dark-browed'  senoritas,.  peeping  from  the  openings,  compensated 
in  some  degree  for  the  ill-looking  conveyance. 


ALICANT  AND   CARTHAGENA.  825 


LXXXV. 

MuRCiA,  Spain,  March  29,  1853. 

Leaving-  Valencia,  by  steamer,  we  arrived  at  Alicant  the 
morning  of  Palm  Sunday.  The  city  contains  some  twenty-five 
or  thirty  thousand  inhabitants ;  has  a  small  artificial  harbor,  a 
tolerable  roadstead,  and  is  the  seat  of  considerable  commerce. 
It  is  well  protected  by  a  fort  on  the  summit  of  a  volcanic  rock, 
of  a  dull  grey  color.  The  houses  are  clean  and  well  built ; 
but  they  suffer  here  from  drought,  having  had  but  little  rain  for 
several  years,  and  large  numbers  of  the  peasantry  have  emigrated 
to  Algiers,  The  cathedral  was  crowded  with  groups  of  men, 
women,  and  children,  bearing  palm-branches,  artificially  braided, 
and  fancifully  ornamented  with  ribbons  and  sugar-plums,  with 
which  they  paraded  in  the  procession  to  the  sounds  of  violins  and 
bugles.  The  priests,  in  full  church-robes,  followed  by  the  multi- 
tude bearing  torches,  passed  out  of  the  church,  making  a  circuit, 
and  retuijning  knocked  for  admittance  at  the  closed  doors,  which 
were  finally  opened  to  the  triumphant  group,  a  symbol  of  the 
entrance  of  Christ  into  Jerusalem.  The  huertas,  or  valleys,  in 
the  distance,  irrigated  by  artificial  means,  are  rich  and  fertile, 
and  produce  olives,  grapes,  and  a  succession  of  crops.  The  palm- 
tree  flourishes  in  certain  localities,  and  the  fresh  dates  are  not  to  be 
despised.  From  Alicant  I  proceeded  to  Carthagena  by  steamer, 
some  hundred  miles.  Carthagena  is  in  a  decayed  state,  for  the 
want  of  commerce;  still  it  is  the  best  port  of  Spain  on  the 
Mediterranean.  King  Charles  III.  made  it  a  naval  establishment ; 
the  fortifications,  bulwarks,  hospitals,  arsenals,  and  ropewalks, 
are  upon  a  magnificent  scale,  and  well  worth  a  visit ;  but  it  has  a 
dull,  inanimate  appearance,  only  a  few  naval  vessels  being  there ; 
the  trade  is  mostly  with  English  craft,  bringing  coal  for  the 
foundries  in  the  neighborhood,  and  taking  cargoes  of  lead  in 
return.  The  mining  of  lead  and  copper  is  a  very  important 
branch  in  this  portion  of  Spain.  I  visited  some  works  which 
are  extensively  carried  on  by  English  capitalists,  but  I  thought 
the  lead  ore  which  I  once  saw  in  Galena,  Illinois,  was  superior 
in  quality.  There  is  a  Presidio,  or  government  prison,  at 
Carthagena,  which  contained  one  thousand  two  hundred  per- 
sons, employed  like  those  described  in  Valencia.    Large  numbers 


326  MURCIA. 

were  engaged  in  braiding  Esparto,  a  species  of  mountain  grass, 
■which  is  made  use  of  for  sacking,  carpeting,  and  various  pur- 
poses. Not  a  little  amusing  was  it  to  see  groups  of  male  convicts 
engaged  in  the  unmanly  employment  of  knitting  fancy  stockings 
for  ladies. 

From  Carthagena  I  came  to  the  capital  of  the  old  kingdom  of 
Murcia  by  diligence,  a  distance  of  about  thirty  miles,  and  arrived 
in  time  to  witness  the  principal  ceremony  of  the  Holy  Week. 
The  road  passed  through  a  dull  and  uninteresting  country,  tra- 
versing a  grey  volcanic  region  for  a  considerable  distance  across 
the  mountain,  without  vegetation,  when  the  fruitful  valley  of 
Murcia  appeared  of  a  sudden,  not  unlike  an  oasis  in  the  desert. 
The  irrigated  valley  is  prolific  in  orange,  lemon,  mulberry,  and 
other  trees.  The  city  contains  forty  thousand  inhabitants;  it  is 
very  quiet,  being  the  residence  of  many  aristocratic  families,  as 
may  be  seen  from  the  armorial  bearings  on  the  fronts  of  the 
houses.  The  streets  are  narrow,  and  the  buildings  fancifully 
painted.  There  is  an  air  of  ease  and  comfort  about  the  male 
peasantry,  with  their  gay  striped  mantles,  and  the  fancy 
embroidered  drapery  of  the  women,  in  groups  on  festival  occa- 
sions, fills  up  the  picture.  The  public  walks,  here,  are  very 
agreeable.  The  view  of  the  Yega,  or  valley,  from  the  Cathedral 
dome,  and  the  circular  city,  with  its  blue  flat  roofs  and  cane 
pigeon-houses,  is  charming,  as  also  the  prospect  of  the  country 
in  the  distance,  with  its  drooping  palm  trees  and  flowery  fields 
and  gardens.  The  cathedral  rises  in  divisions  not  unlike  a  spy- 
glass drawn  out,  and  surmounted  by  a  dome. 

The  Holy  Week  has  just  drawn  to  a  close.  Having  passed 
several  of  these  festivals  in  Jerusalem,  Eome,  Havana,  and  Lima, 
I  was  anxious  to  witness  the  religious  ceremonies,  here,  and 
compare  them  with  those  of  the  countries  I  have  named.  I  find 
they  outstrip  the  latter  in  the  detail,  but  are  less  grand  and 
im23ressive.  The  people  pride  themselves  on  the  rich  wood 
carvings  of  one  Francisco  Larcillo,  who  lived  in  the  last  century, 
and  whose  work  is  found  in  the  churches,  also  in  the  figures 
which  form  part  of  the  procession,  and  which  are  admirably  exe- 
cuted. It  was  curious  to  watch  the  country  people,  of  both 
sexes,  in  their  gay  Spanish  costumes,  crowding  the  streets  to  see 
the  figures  personifying  the  acts  and  sufferings  of  Christ;  the 
Saviour  being  represented  to  the  life,  supporting  the  weight  of  a 


HOLY  WEEK.  327 

heavy  cross,  the  woodwork  of  which  was  covered  with  tortoise- 
shell,  and  tipped  with  gold,  his  hair  streaming  at  full  length,  and 
the  blood  trickling  from  the  wounds  of  the  golden  crown  of 
thorns.  The  platform  rested  upon  the  shoulders  of  twelve  men, 
who  were  provided  with  crutches  with  which  to  rest  themselves 
at  the  stations.  The  figures  of  Mary,  the  mother  of  Jesus,  Marj' 
Magdalen,  and  St.  Peter,  with  the  keys,  were  upon  similar  plat- 
forms, covered  with  silks  and  satins,  tinsel  and  gold,  with  a  pro- 
fusion of  artificial  and  natural  flowers.  Among  the  number  is 
Christ  and  the  Twelve  Apostles  surrounding  the  table  of  the  last 
supper,  which  is  abundantly  supplied  with  meats,  fruits,  and  con- 
fectionery, very  tastefully  arranged.  The  almost  naked  and 
bleeding  form  of  Christ  submitting  to  the  flagellation,  is  repre- 
sented by  the  hideous  figure  of  a  monster  who  has  fallen  from 
exhaustion,  while  others  are  drawn  to  take  the  cords  that  bind 
him  to  the  stake.  The  immense  procession  is  headed  by  bands 
of  music,  the  priesthood  in  full  regalia,  the  military  and  civil 
officers,  followed  by  a  company  of  Nazarenes  in  armor,  with 
lances,  who  go  through  a  sham  fight,  the  whole  succeeded  by 
the  military,  and  as  many  as  five  hundred  persons,  bare-footed, 
of  all  ages  and  sizes,  dressed  in  white  cotton  cloth  hoods  and 
skirts,  their  loins  girded  with  cords.  The  hoods  or  masks  con- 
tain two  holes  for  sight.  The  persons  who  wear  these  masks 
support  a  black  crucifix  of  some  weight  upon  their  shoulders. 
The  streets  are  crowded  to  excess,  and  the  balconies  are  filled 
with  sparkling-eyed  senoritas  and  groups  of  friends.  The 
anxiety  of  the  crowd  to  get  a  peep  at  the  procession,  with  the 
confusion,  made  it  more  a  festival  or  jubilee  than  a  religious  cere- 
mony. The  night  procession  with  torches,  after  the  crucifixion, 
with  the  lifeless  atid  mutilated  body  of  Christ,  surrounded  by 
his  weeping  mother  and  the  attending  groups,  was  more  quiet, 
and  more  solemn  and  imposing.  High  mass  was  numerously 
attended  in  the  Cathedral  on  the  morning  of  the  Resur- 
rection, when  at  ten  o'clock  the  bells  of  the  city  churches  thun- 
dered forth  the  glad  tidings  that  the  Saviour  had  risen,  and 
induced  many  to  huzza  it.  I  had  to  take  refuge  in  a  shop  for  a 
half  hour  from  the  merciless  peltings  of  those  on  the  house-tops 
and  in  the  balconies,  who  threw  ashes,  sand,  and  earthen  missiles, 
not  unlike  the  Brazilian  wax-balls  of  lemon  size,  filled  with 
water,  only  more  difficult  to  dispose  of.     It  was  a  temporary 


828  IN  THE  DILIGENCE. 

diversion,  and  was  taken  in  good  part :  but  some  funny  scenes 
and  dirty  faces  were  the  consequence. 

Having  visited  on  a  former  occasion  all  the  southern  cities  of 
Spain,  and  having  now  completed  the  eastern  coast  on  the  Medi- 
terranean, I  must  turn  my  face  towards  Madrid,  and  have  a 
fatiguing  ride  for  upwards  of  two  hundred  miles,  in  heavy  lum- 
bering diligences,  over  rough  roads,  with  miserable  Posadas,  or 
inns.  The  roads  are  now  considered  tolerably  safe,  being  pro- 
tected by  civil  guards,  who  have  arrested  and  shot  many  of  the 
highwaymen. 

I  shall  take  Aranjuez,  the  Yersailles  of  the  Spanish  court,  en 
route  to  Madrid. 


LXXXVI. 

Madrid,  April  15,  1853. 

Ensconced  in  the  bedina,  or  front  compartment  of  a  huge 
lumbering  diligence,  at  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  I  left  Murcia, 
behind  eight  mules,  a  postillion,  and  two  drivers,  with  the  pros- 
pect of  a  hard  ride,  over  a  very  uninteresting  countrj^,  of  sixty 
Spanish  leagues — which  are  unlike  any  other  for  length — the 
"  Camino  Real,""  or  royal  road,  being  neglected,  and  in  conse- 
quence of  the  winter  rains,  in  horrible  order.  The  wheel  mules 
are  attached  to  the  pole,  and  guided  without  bits ;  the  others 
draw  by  long  straggling  ropes;  the  coachman  sits  in  the  box 
with  his  long  whip,  and  his  assistant,  who  jumps  down  from 
time  to  time  and  pelts  the  animals  with  sticks,  stones,  and  mud. 
The  postillion  rides  a  horse  beside  the  first  led  mule ;  he  is 
required  where  the  roads  are  the  worst,  and  he  keeps  the  track. 
The  mules  all  have  their  titles,  and  seem  to  understand  the 
incessant  cries,  from  the  India-rubber  lungs  of  the  driver,  of 
•Carpintero,  Zapetero,  Carbonero,  and  the  whole  catalogue  of 
names.  The  long  ears  of  the  animal  named,  are  pricked  up,  and 
his  best  efforts  are  made  under  the  cut  of  the  lash,  or  the  whiz- 
zing of  a  stone  past  his  head. 

We  pushed  through  a  dreary  and  uninteresting  country  some 
twenty  leagues,  with  occasional  fertile  vallej^s  and  indifferent 
villages,  to  the  Sheffield  of  Spain,  the  town  of  Albaceile,  where 
we  passed  the  night.     It  is  noted  in  Spain  for  the  manufacturj 


LA  MANCHA.  829 

of  arms.  Population  ten  thousand.  We  were  soon  surrounded 
by  venders  of  poniards,  stilettos,  and  small  punalicos,  or  knives, 
which  the  women  are  said  to  conceal  in  their  garters.  The 
Spaniard  is  very  expert  in  the  use  of  the  knife,  and  with  it  con- 
cealed under  his  capa,  or  cloak,  is  a  dangerous  enemy.  The 
inns  are  generally  great,  barn-like  stone  buildings,  with  open 
patios,  or  courts,  for  the  entrance  of  animals  and  vehicles.  The 
rooms  are  generally  dirty,  with  no  furniture  except  cot-beds; 
and  after  an  oily  garlicky  supper,  the  fleas,  and  kicking  and 
thrashing  of  the  mules  all  night,  one  is  prepared  for  a  comforta- 
ble nap  in  the  diligence  over  a  rough  road.  The  bread  is  gene- 
rally excellent  throughout  Spain,  and  chocolate  can  always  be 
procured. 

We  made  long,  tiresome  distances,  over  barren  treeless  plains, 
with  no  water  for  irrigation,  and  no  signs  of  birds  or  animal  life, 
when  we  would  suddenly  strike  a  fertile  valley,  tolerably  culti- 
vated by  the  scratching  process  of  rude  ploughs,  but  without 
hedges  or  landmarks,  to  denote  proprietorship. 

At  break  of  day,  and  late  sunset,  the  peasants  may  be  seen 
mounted  on  donkeys,  or  carrying  their  implements  of  husbandry, 
after  the  hard  toils  of  the  day,  returning  to  their  mud  or  stone 
hovels,  comfortless  and  cheerless,  not  unlike  the  country  people 
in  the  interior  of  Sicily,  who  congregate  in  villages  in  like  man- 
ner, and  for  a  motive  similar  to  the  one  which  actuates  them 
here — safety  from  the  hordes  of  bandits  which  the  wars  of  the 
Peninsula  have  produced.  The  guardias  civiles,  whom  we  met 
from  time  to  time,  have  made  sad  havoc  with  the  Ladrons, 
shooting  several,  and  taking  many  prisoners,  so  we  came  through 
in  safety. 

Some  of  the  villages  of  La  Mancha  through  which  we  passed, 
were  very  poor,  with  many  beggars ;  others  appeared  comforta- 
ble, and  the  people  gay  and  cheerful,  notwithstanding  the  heavy 
exactions  and  badly  administered  government.  The  country, 
however,  was  full  of  historical  interest,  as  at  the  left,  not  far  dis- 
tant, lay  Argaraasilla  del  Alba,  in  the  prison  of  which  Cervan- 
tes wrote  Don  Quixote.  Near  the  villages  many  flat,  square, 
open  threshing  floors,  were  found,  for  bruising  the  grain  with 
the  feet  of  mules  and  oxen,  after  the  custom  of  oriental  countries. 
I  was  forcibly  reminded  of  the  exploits  of  Don  Quixote  as  we 
approached  the  village  El  Toboso,  the  reputed  residence  of  the 


330  OCANA. 

crack-brained  knight  of  the  windmills ;  for  here  the  mills  were 
numerous,  and  used  for  grinding  the  grain  of  the  country.  They 
look  not  unlike  giants  in  the  distance,  and  hence  it  was  perhaps 
that  the  Don  assured  Sancho  that  they  might  get  elbow-deep  in 
adventures.  It  was  a  festival  day  with  the  peasants,  and  the 
dulcineas,  with  their  half  Swiss,  half  German  appearance,  in  blue 
and  green  petticoats,  with  handkerchiefs  tied  under  their  chins 
during  the  Cachucha,  the  national  dance,  and  castanets  in  their 
hands,  and  their  Cabeleros,  in  low  crowned,  high  rimmed,  velvet- 
bound  hats,  with  fancy  colored,  round  clothes,  jackets  and  leg- 
gings, had  a  happy  effect. 

On  the  morning  of  the  third  day  we  breakfasted  at  Ocana, 
memorable  for  a  battle  in  1808,  in  which  Marshal  Soult,  with 
twenty-five  thousand  men,  put  to  flight  sixty  thousand  Spaniards, 
through  good  generalship ;  the  French  killed  five  thousand  and 
took  twenty-six  thousand  prisoners,  with  the  loss  of  only  one 
thousand  six  hundred  men,  a  stroke  of  luck  reminding  one  of 
the  famous  Texian  fight  at  San  Jacinto.  The  town  was  pillaged 
and  almost  destroyed — the  people  left  poor  and  miserable.  The 
diligences  and  other  vehicles  concentrate  here  fi-om  the  south 
and  east,  and  give  it  some  importance. 

From  Ocana  we  passed  through  a  hilly,  dreary,  and  treeless 
country,  until  suddenly,  as  if  by  enchantment,  burst  upon  the 
view  the  fertile  valley  and  banks  of  the  Tayos,  upon  which  is 
situated  Aranjuez,  the  early  summer  residence  of  the  royal 
family,  the  spires  and  cupolas  of  the  palace  and  outbuildings, 
looming  up  like  signals  for  the  benighted  traveller  in  the  desert 
waste.  Here  is  found  the  only  railroad,  which  enters  the  capital, 
a  distance  of  nine  leagues.  As  I  design  visiting  the  palaces  and 
the  gardens  when  the  trees  are  in  full  bloom,  I  shall  defer  my 
remarks  until  that  time. 

Upon  a  small  eminence,  approaching  Madrid,  is  seen  a  monu- 
ment denoting  its  geographical  position,  in  the  centre  of  Spain. 
Madrid  is,  comparatively  speaking,  a  modern  city ;  for  Spain 
having  risen  under  Charles  V.,  who,  gouty  and  phlegmatic,  found 
the  cool  bracing  air  from  the  mountains  adapted  to  his  complaint, 
he  deserted  the  ancient  capitals  of  Yalladolid,  Sevilla,  Granada, 
and  Toledo,  and  fixed  his  residence  upon  several  hills  upon  the 
banks  of  a  small  river,  almost  dry  in  summer,  at  an  elevation  of 
two  thousand  four  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.     Tt 


MADRID,  331 

was  declared  the  capital  by  Philip  IL,  in  1560.  The  country 
about  is  flat,  and  without  trees ;  it  produces  but  little,  the  climate 
being  changeable ;  but  being  the  residence  of  the  royal  family, 
and  seat  of  the  government,  with  its  three  hundred  thousand 
population,  from  all  parts  of  the  empire,  as  well  as  strangers,  it 
became  the  grand  focus  of  attraction  and  extravagance,  exhaust- 
ing the  revenue  and  the  resources  of  Spain,  both  foreign  and 
provincial.  Every  article  of  use  is  brought  from  abroad,  or 
from  the  provinces,  over  the  caminos  reales,  or  royal  roads, 
which  branch  off,  but  meet  north  and  south.  Notwithstanding 
the  aridity  of  the  soil,  the  lavish  expenditures  of  former  govern- 
ments have,  by  means  of  irrigation,  produced  magnificent  shaded 
drives  and  promenades  in  the  suburbs ;  among  the  number 
figures  the  Prado,  the  resort  of  all  fashionable  Madrid  in  the 
evening.  It  is  ten  thousand  feet  in  length,  and  two  hundred 
feet  wide,  with  fountains  and  statuary.  The  salon,  or  part  most 
frequented,  is  about  one  thousand  five  hundred  feet  long,  and  is 
occupied  by  promenaders  of  both  sexes,  in  full  dress,  while 
thousands  of  ladies  in  mantillas,  seated  in  chairs,  are  being 
passed  in  review  by  Cabeleros  smoking  their  cigaritos.  The  side 
carriage  road  is  occupied  by  a  long  procession  of  brilliant  equi- 
pages and  liveried  attendants.  It  is  necessary  to  sprinkle  the 
grounds,  as  the  fine  grey  dust  is  prejudicial  to  dress,  and  destruc- 
tive to  the  eyes  and  lungs. 

The  Spaniards  think  there  is  only  one  Corte,  one  Madrid  in 
the  world,  and  it  is  not  surprising,  for  the  resources  of  the 
country  concentrate  here.  The  palace  is  beautifully  situated, 
and  one  of  the  finest  in  Europe.  The  Royal  Museum  contains 
the  famous  national  paintings  of  Murillo  and  Velasquez,  as  well 
as  some  of  the  best  gems  of  Raphael,  Titian,  and  Michael  Angel o  ; 
and  the  immense  galleries  of  all  the  different  schools  of  European 
art,  demand  several  days'  close  examination.  The  chief  public 
amusements  are  the  theatres  and  bull-fights ;  in  the  former,  you 
see  the  national  dances  in  all  their  perfection  ;  in  the  latter,  which 
are  attended  by  all  classes,  to  the  extent  of  some  thirtv  thousand 
persons,  eight  or  ten  bulls,  and  seven  or  ten  horses  pay  the  forfeit 
of  their  lives.  One  of  their  famous  matadors,  or  swordsmen, 
died  recentl}^,  and  was  interred  with  great  pomp  and  ceremony, 
his  coffin  being  exposed,  covered  with  a  black  pall,  for  twenty- 
four  hours  before  the  high  altar,  surrounded  by  tall  burning 


332  THE   CORTES. 

wax  candles.  The  stately,  silver-mounted  hearse,  with  waving 
black  plumes,  was  drawn  by  four  horses,  in  black  drapery, 
followed  by  a  large  number  of  bearers  with  torches,  and  one 
hundred  and  ten  vehicles,  several  of  which  were  of  the  nobility ; 
then  followed  a  multitude  of  the  middling  classes,  while  the 
balconies  were  filled  with  ladies. 

Near  the  Palace,  on  the  opposite  side  of  a  beautiful  circular 
promenade,  surrounded  by  trees  and  the  statues  of  the  former 
kings  of  Spain,  is  situated  the  opera-house,  a  fine  edifice,  erected 
b}^  Ferdinand  VII.  for  his  convenience.  The  night  piece  to  the 
close  for  the  season  is  Fra  Diavolo.  "We  had  a  full  house,  the 
queen,  as  well  as  the  ex-queen  Christina  and  daughters,  being 
present. 

Things  are  in  a  bad  state  in  Spain  ;  the  treasury  is  bankrupt ; 
the  abuses  of  the  general  government  are  great ;  constitutional 
privileges  are  only  in  name ;  the  taxes  and  imposts  upon  the 
farmers  are  heavy ;  the  people  in  the  interior  are  poor ;  the 
liberty  of  the  press  is  abridged ;  and  all  this  in  a  country 
possessing  every  variety  of  soil  and  climate,  and  rich  in  its 
productions,  both  agricultural  and  metallic. 

The  all  but  universal  want  of  honor  and  good  faith  of  the 
royal  family  and  upper  classes  of  society  is  notorious.  The 
queen  mother,  one  of  the  wealthiest  capitalists  of  Europe,  is 
grasping  and  avaricious ;  undertaking  enterprises  with  great 
benefit  to  herself,  but  disastrous  to  the  tax-payer.  The  people 
detest  her,  but  are  currying  and  subdued  when  she  presents 
herself. 

I  was  in  the  Cortes  when  Bravo  Murillo  was  defending  him- 
self from  the  charges  alleged  against  him  for  his  acts  in  granting 
railway  privileges  while  minister.  The  House  of  Deputies  is 
magnificently  fitted  up ;  but  the  members,  in  handsome  attire, 
with  white  kid  and  colored  gloves,  and  gold-headed  canes,  differ 
from  our  working  members,  surrounded  with  their  budgets  and 
documents,  and  up  to  their  eyes  in  paper,  ink,  and  public  jour- 
nals. The  opposition  were  exposing  the  acts  of  the  government 
in  influencing  the  public  elections,  thereby  securing  their  own 
instruments  of  power.  This  could  not  be  endured,  and  a  royal 
order  closed  the  Cortes.  The  excitement  soon  passed  over  ;  for 
what  can  the  reformer  do  when  the  whole  force  of  the  army  is 
ready  to  put  down  any  attempt,  and  when  that  arm  of  strength 


THE   ESCORIAL.  333 

is  the  only  official  department  sure  of  pay,  even  when  other 
branches  of  the  public  service  are  neglected  ?  My  opinion  is  that 
the  day  is  not  far  distant  when  a  change  must  take  place  in  the 
affairs  of  this  ill-governed  country. 


LXXXVII. 

The  Escorial,  May  1,  1853. 

Oisr  this  busy,  bustling  day  at  home,  I  find  myself  wandering 
quietly  and  solitary  through  the  untenanted  gorgeous  palace  of 
the  Escorial,  with  its  minute  combinations  of  convent,  royal 
cemetery,  and  residence  of  the  former  kings  of  Spain.  My 
guide  is  nearly  seventy  years  of  age,  and  has  been  blind  for  the 
last  fifty-six  years  ;  yet  he  is  active,  mounts  the  cupola  through 
the  numerous  passages,  and  describes  the  particular  localities 
and  points  of  view.  This  immense  edifice  measures  seven  hun- 
dred and  forty -four  feet  by  five  hundred  and  eighty  feet,  and  the 
entire  square  covers  more  than  three  thousand  feet.  In  the 
centre  is  the  chapel,  surmounted  by  a  dome.  There  are,  so  says 
the  guide,  sixty-three  fountains,  twelve  cloisters,  eighty  stair- 
cases, sixteen  court  yards,  and  three  thousand  feet  of  fresco 
work,  commenced  in  1553,  and  finished  in  1584. 

The  chapel  has  three  naves  three  hundred  and  twenty  feet 
long,  two  hundred  and  thirty  feet  wide,  and  three  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  to  the  top  of  the  cupola.  It  is  built  of  granite,  in 
fine  proportion,  and  superb  for  its  simplicity,  with  richly  deco- 
rated altars  of  jasper,  and  various  marble  and  bronze  gilt 
statues  of  great  size.  The  painting,  statuary,  frescoes,  and  other 
ornaments  are  in  proportion,  to  give  you  a  faint  idea  of  this 
immense  work.  Philip  II.,  half  monk,  half  king,  died  here  in 
1598,  boasting  that  from  the  foot  of  a  mountain  he  governed 
half  the  world  with  a  scrap  of  paper.  The  lavish  expenditure 
of  millions  upon  millions  could  only  have  been  supplied  from 
newly  discovered  America. 

From  Madrid  the  distance  is  eight  leagues  by  diligence,  most 
of  the  way  over  a  barren,  desert  country,  where  the  immense 
glowing  piles  are  discovered,  at  the  base  of  the  mountain,  with 
its  small  village  which  is  resorted  to  in  summer  by  the  citizens 
of  Madrid,  to  escape  the  heat,  glare,  and  dust  of  the  city.     The 


834  THE   PANTHEON. 

royal  family  never  visit  here,  as  it  is  the  resting-place  of  their 
deceased  relatives.  The  lawns,  gardens,  and  promenades  are 
pretty,  as  is  also  a  miniature  country  house,  ornamented  with 
marble  arabesques,  rich  paintings,  and  all  the  paraphernalia  of  a 
palace.  Philip  II.  accumulated  some  seven  thousand  relics, 
which  are  preserved  in  five  hundred  and  fifteen  shrines.  The 
French  carried  ofi"  much  of  the  bullion  of  gold,  but  the  exhibi- 
tion is  still  sufficient  to  satisfy  the  most  fastidious.  The  Pan- 
theon, or  burial-place,  is  a  vaulted  chamber  under  the  high  altar, 
approached  by  green  and  yellow  colored  jasper  staircases,  by 
torchlight ;  it  is  an  octagon-formed  chamber,  thirty -six  feet 
wide,  and  equally  high,  where  in  niches  repose  the  kings  and 
mothers  of  kings,  the  sexes  being  on  opposite  sides.  The  hosts 
of  monks  who  were  formerly  here  under  the  patronage  of  the 
king,  no  longer  exist ;  and  the  services  to  the  departed  dead,  and 
the  few  living  who  repair  here,  are  performed  by  a  limited  num- 
ber of  priests. 

Since  I  last  wrote  you  from  Madrid,  I  have  visited  the  anti- 
quated city  of  Toledo,  and  the  summer  residence  of  the  royalty 
at  Aranjuez.  From  Madrid  to  Toledo  is  twelve  leagues,  over 
a  dull,  dusty  road,  with  straggling  villages ;  among  the  num- 
ber Illescas,  which  merits  its  reputation  of  having  served  up  a 
stewed  cat  to  Gil  Bias,  instead  of  a  hare ;  but  on  approaching 
the  venerable  and  imposing  old  city,  the  country  improves,  and 
is  tolerably  cultivated.  It  is  built  upon  an  almost  impregnable 
rock  of  seven  hills,  and  is  two  thousand  four  hundred  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea ;  the  river  Tayos  rolls  through  the  gorge 
which  separates  it  from  the  opposite  eminence  ;  it  has  only  one 
approach  by  the  land  side,  which  is  protected  by  mammoth 
towers  and  castellated  walls.  The  diligence  enters  on  the  out- 
side road,  which  is  of  modern  construction,  and  can  only  pass 
through  the  old  gates  and  the  narrow  and  circuitous  lanes  by 
means  of  cutting  places  for  the  form  of  the  hubs  to  pass.  It  was 
a  relief  to  escape  from  the  heat,  and  glare,  and  dust  of  Madiid, 
and  find  oneself  in  the  elevated,  fresh,  and  invigorating  atmo- 
sphere of  this  old  city,  with  its  shaded  terraces  and  huts,  pro- 
tected from  the  sun's  rays  by  tall,  substantial,  Moorish-like 
houses,  with  clean  courts,  not  unlike  those  of  Seville ;  and 
although  it  was  gloomy  and  tomb-like,  its  dilapidated  population 
havino;  dwindled  down  from  two  hundred  thousand  to  fifteen 


TOLEDO.  335 

thousand,  it  was  an  agreeable  change  from  the  noisy,  bustling 
capital.  My  eyes  having  suffered  from  the  dust,  which  in 
Madrid,  at  this  season  of  the  year,  amounts  to  an  epidemic,  T 
wore  blue  goggles.  I  went  quite  opportunely,  however,  to  see 
the  town  in  convention,  as  the  following  day  the  ex-queen 
Christina  and  daughters  came  to  see  the  Cardinal,  her  confessor. 
It  being  her  first  visit  to  this  old  citj^,  it  was  quite  a  festival  day  ; 
the  priests  were  in  full  regalia,  and  the  troops  under  arms  ;  high 
mass  was  performed  in  the  old  cathedral ;  this,  and  the  firing  of 
cannon  from  the  towering  platform  of  the  Alcazar,  the  banners, 
curtains,  and  counterpanes  suspended  from  the  balconies  of  the 
curious  antique  Plaza,  gave  the  old  city  an  animated  appearance. 
Christina,  in  her  gracious,  smiling,  and  captivating  manner, 
responded  to  the  salutations  of  the  people,  who  at  heart  despise 
her  for  her  intriguing  and  audacious  disposition.  She  was 
remarkably  well,  and  appears  nearly  as  young  as  when  I  saw 
her  in  Rome  during  her  exile. 

In  the  heart  of  the  city  towers  one  of  the  finest  cathedrals  in 
Spain ;  it  is  two  hundred  and  four  feet  wide,  and  its  central  nave 
is  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  high.  It  is  a  perfect  museum  of 
art,  architecture,  sculpture,  and  painting,  which  cannot  well  be 
described  on  paper.  The  illuminated  stained  glass  windows, 
when  seen  at  sunset,  resembled  rubies  and  emeralds.  The  view 
from  the  tower  is  very  extensive.  The  chiming  of  the  many 
ponderous  bells,  coming  upon  you  while  in  the  tower,  is  deafen* 
ing.  There  are  various  churches  and  galleries,  of  antique  and 
Moorish  architecture,  which  occupy  one's  time  to  advantage. 
Toledo,  famous  for  its  arms,  has  still  its  government  manufactory, 
which  employs  about  two  hundred  men ;  it  is  situated  about  one 
and  a  half  miles  from  the  city,  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  is 
well  worth  a  visit.  Although  the  machinery  is  dull  and  heavy, 
the  work  turned  out  is  very  superior.  The  finest  armory  I  have 
seen  was  in  Madrid,  which  has  a  vast  collection,  and  contains  a 
variety  of  ancient  as  well  as  modern  blades.  The  collection  of 
horse  and  warrior  armor  is  of  the  choicest  and  most  exquisite  com- 
position. The  blades  are  of  fine  temper  and  polish,  and  so  elastic 
that  they  can  be  coiled  like  the  mainspring  of  a  watch,  and 
packed  up.  The  collection  of  new  arms  in  the  form  of  all  the 
antiques,  Arab  and  Turkish,  in  use,  is  ver}^  interesting.  The 
introduction  of  fire-arms  was  destructive  to  the  interests  of  Toledo. 


336  ARANJUEZ. 

From  Toledo  I  proceeded  along  the  river  bank  six  leagues  to 
Aranjuez,  through  a  rich  agricultural  and  beautiful  country,  the 
property  of  the  queen  ;  it  was  sparsely  populated,  and  little 
productive,  from  its  unnatural  tenure.  The  shady  avenues  for 
nearly  a  league  approaching  the  royal  abode  are  agreeable. 
The  court  resides  here  until  the  middle  of  June,  when  fevers 
sometimes  prevail  from  the  miasma  of  the  river,  then  the  town 
is  quite  deserted,  and  royalty  departs  to  La  Grranza  for  the 
summer  and  autumn,  until  it  returns  to  Madrid.  Nature  was  in 
her  prettiest  attire,  the  vast  and  extensive  gardens  were  filled 
with  shade-trees  of  all  countries.  In  the  long  walks,  studded 
with  thickly  covered  foliage,  among  the  flowering  fruit-trees,  the 
fountains  abundantly  supplied  with  water,  the  statues  and  groups 
of  Neptunes,  Tritons,  Dolphins,  and  hosts  of  allegorical  figures, 
among  the  singing  of  birds,  and  the  murmuring  of  the  cataracts 
of  water,  one  is  transported  as  if  by  enchantment  into  a  fairy 
land.  The  workmen  were  all  busy  in  getting  the  grounds  in 
order  for  the  arrival  of  the  queen. 

I  returned  to  the  capital.  The  usual  display  of  military  took 
place  at  the  departure  of  the  queen,  whose  absence  gave  me  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  the  royal  stables,  carriage  houses,  and 
harness  rooms,  which  are  among  the  richest  in  Europe  for 
equipage.  Some  of  the  antique  carriages  were  superbly  decorated 
wdth  gold  and  silver.  The  stable  contained  two  hundred  horses, 
one  hundred  and  fifty  mules,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  equi- 
pages, which  can  be  turned  out  on  state  occasions  with  appropriate 
harness  and  trappings.  The  employees  in  and  about  the  palace 
are  about  eight  hundred  in  number,  so  a  very  good  idea  may  be 
formed  of  the  expenses  of  a  monarchical  government,  and  an 
easy  solution  of  the  enormous  imposts  and  taxation.  Spain, 
with  a  population  reduced  from  twenty-four  millions  to  thirteen 
millions,  pays  the  queen  two  and  a  half  million  of  dollars  per 
annum,  while  the  glorious  Republic  of  double  the  population, 
considers  twenty-five  thousand  pretty  good  pay  for  a  President. 
How  often,  while  standing  at  the  gates  of  the  walled  cities, 
noticing  the  wrangling  between  the  ofl&cials  and  the  hardy 
peasantry  of  the  country,  who  are  obliged  to  submit  to  the 
impost  upon  every  article  of  production,  have  I  reflected  upon 
our  free  and  untrammelled  farmers  at  home,  enjoying  liberty  of 
action,  opinion,  and  religion,  and  free  from  passports  and  spies. 


LA   GRANJA.  337 

How  much  we  have  to  be  thankful  for,  and  how  much  we 
undervalue  the  privileges  we  possess. 

I  shall  proceed  across  the  mountain  to  La  Granja,  the  last 
royal  seat  I  have  to  visit,  and  shall  continue  to  the  ancient  cities 
of  Lejena  and  Valladolid. 


LXXXVIII. 

Valladolid,  Spain,  May  9,  1853. 

Leaving  the  Escorial  I  proceeded  on  horseback,  with  mj 
guide,  across  the  Guadaratna  chain  of  mountains,  which  divides 
old  and  new  Castile,  a  distance  of  some  nine  leagues  to  San  Ilde- 
fonso,  the  residence  of  the  Court  in  the  months  of  July,  August,, 
and  September,  about  eighteen  leagues  from  Madrid,  We  had 
had  rain  at  the  Escorial,  which  proved  to  be  snow  on  the  moun- 
tains. The  road  was  constructed  in  1749,  by  Ferdinand ;  at  its 
extreme  height  is  a  marble  lion,  five  thousand  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  The  view  from  the  summit,  with  the  valleys 
and  villages  spread  out  like  a  map,  was  very  beautiful,  while 
the  tall  forest  pines  with  their  white  mantles  among  the  jagged 
rocks,  and  the  cascades  from  the  melting  snow,  were  truly  Alpine, 
and  reminded  me  of  the  Simplon.  Here,  also,  Napoleon  crossed 
on  Christmas-eve,  in  1808,  with  great  loss  from  the  extreme 
cold,  leading  his  army  in  person,  and  in  his  impatience  leaping 
from  his  horse,  and  walking  on  tiie  snow,  encouraging  his-  troops. 
During  the  winter  the  road  is  frequently  impassable ;  but  not- 
withstanding that  my  horse  was  plunging  through  snow  banks 
in  the  narrow  passes  up  to  his  middle,  I  felt  little  inconvenience 
from  the  cold  under  the  rays  of  the  raid-day  sun,  and  the  highest 
pinnacles  once  past,  descending  rapidly  into  the  valley,  a  two 
hours'  ride  carried  me  to  the  village  of  La  Granja. 

In  1722,  Philip  V.,  while  hunting,  discovered  this  Granja,  or 
farm  house,  of  the  Segovian  monks,  and  being  of  a  retiring  dis- 
position, bought  the  site,  and  commenced  building  a  palace,  and 
laying  out  the  grounds,  levelling  rocks,  forming  lakes  and  foun- 
tains, which  surpass  many  in  Europe,  for  there  is  no  want  of 
water  here.  The  gardens  are  planted  in  avenues  and  adorned 
with  marble  statues.  There  are  twenty-six  great  fountains-; 
among  the  number  are  the  baths  of  Diana,  with  twenty  female 

22 


838  SEGOVIA. 

figures.  The  fountain  of  Fame  throws  water  one  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  high.  The  mountain  rises  abruptly  here  eight  thou- 
sand feet  high ;  the  snow  on  the  craggy,  rocky  sides  and  forests, 
the  fresh  vegetation  of  spring  in  the  valley,  and  the  mountain 
cataracts,  produced  one  of  those  magnificent  sights  which  are  so 
difficult  to  describe,  and  so  hard  to  forget.  The  season  was  still 
backward,  as  the  fruits  of  spring  ripen  in  autumn  :  everything  was 
artificial ;  rocks  were  levelled  and  hollowed  to  admit  pipes  and 
roots  of  trees,  and  earth  brought  from  the  plains.  The  expenses 
were  so  enormous,  that  this  infatuated  king  died  owing  forty- 
five  millions  of  reals.  The  palace  is  pleasantly  situated,  and 
looks  over  the  royal  grounds ;  the  royal  apartments  are  light, 
airy,  and  well  finished,  but  not  strikingly  magnificent.  The 
saloons  have  some  fine  paintings  and  statuary,  but  many  of  these 
works  of  art  have  been  removed  to  Madrid.  Here,  in  January, 
1724,  Philip  v.,  who  was  a  bigot  and  hj'pochondriac,  abdicated 
his  crown  and  resumed  it  the  same  year,  after  the  death  of  his 
son,  being  urged  to  become  a  king  again  by  his  wife,  who  was 
tired  of  private  life. 

Here,  Ferdinand  VII.,  in  1832,  revoked  the  decree  by  which 
he  had  abolished  the  Salic  law,  and  declared  his  daughter,  the 
present  Queen  Isabel,  heiress  to  the  crown,  which  act  brought 
■upon  Spain  her  civil  wars,  and  the  imputed  succession  of  "  Don 
Carlos,"  for  here  were  carried  on  the  court  intrigues  by  Christina, 
who  induced  her  royal  husband  to  sign  the  document  while  on  a 
sick  bed.  Ferdinand  died  in  1833,  and  then  commenced  the 
civil  wars,  which  distracted  the  kingdom.  In  the  same  palace, 
in  1835,  this  same  Ex-Queen  Christina,  in  turn,  was  deprived  of 
her  royal  privileges,  and  forced  by  the  soldiery  .to  proclaim  the 
democratical  constitution  of  1812,  after  which  she  was  exiled 
until  the  present  restoration  of  things  took  place.  A  few 
leagues  further  on  is  the  old  Castillian  city  of  Segovia,  with  its 
giant  houses  and  balconies ;  it  resembles  Toledo  somewhat ;  the 
population  is  reduced  from  thirty  thousand  to  nine  thousand. 
Its  position  is  cold  and  bleak,  three  thousand  three  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  surrounded  by  picturesque  old  walls 
and  towers.  Here  is  the  most  remarkable  Roman  Aqueduct  I 
have  yet  seen.  The  steep  banked  rivers  of  the  Erisina  and  Cla- 
mores  which  girdle  the  city,  were  difficult  of  access,  and  induced 
the  ancients  to  bring  the  pure  stream  of  the  Rio  Trio  several 


THE  devil's  bridge.  339 

leagues  by  this  aqueduct.  It  has  several  angles  from  two  hun- 
dred to  nine  hundred  feet,  to  break  the  force  of  the  water ;  the 
arches  rise  in  proportion  as  the  ground  deepens,  until  they 
become  double ;  the  upper  tiers  are  uniform ;  the  three  central 
ones,  which  are  the  most  stupendous,  being  one  hundred  and 
two  feet  in  height.  This  mammoth  work  is  of  solid  granite 
blocks,  without  cement  or  mortar,  of  similar  form  to  those  in  the 
Campagna  of  Rome.  This  immense  structure  was  probably 
erected  by  Trajan,  but  nothing  is  known  of  its  history.  Accord- 
ing to  some  antiquarians,  it  was  built  by  one  Lucinus,  but  the 
common  people  call  it  the  Puente  del  Diablo,  or  devil's  bridge, 
because  his  Satanic  majesty  was  in  love  with  a  fair  Segovian, 
and  offered  his  services  for  her  affections,  which  she  promised 
him  provided  he  would  build  an  aqueduct  in  one  night,  which 
he  did.  One  stone,  however,  being  found  deficient,  the  church 
decided  the  contract  void,  and  Satan  was  foiled.  The  lower 
classes  believe  the  story,  and  give  no  credit  to  other  accounts. 
The  aqueduct  was  respected  by  the  Goths,  but  broken  in  part  by 
the  Moors  of  Toledo,  in  1071,  who  destroyed  thirty-five  arches, 
which  remained  in  ruin  until  1483,  when  Isabella,  Queen  of 
Spain,  repaired  them.  One  of  the  finest  old  Gothic  Cathedrals 
of  Spain  is  Segina.  From  its  square  tower,  covered  with  a 
cupola  three  hundred  and  six  feet  high,  is  a  beautiful  panoramic 
view  of  the  city  with  its  gardens,  convents,  aqueduct,  and  La 
Granza,  lying  at  the  base  of  the  towering  mountains. 

Valladolid,  the  city  from  which  I  write,  has  no  diligence 
communication  with  Segovia.  I  was  therefore,  obliged  to  make 
a  circuit  of  ninety  miles  to  reach  this  point,  spending  a  part  of  a 
day  at  San  Raphael,  the  angle  of  two  roads  in  a  miserable 
Venta,  a  halting-place  for  muleteers ;  it  was  an  open,  barn-like 
barrack,  with  a  stone  floor ;  a  huge  kitchen,  black  as  night  from 
the  smoke  of  the  past  twenty  years  ;  the  ceiling  hung  with  sau- 
sages, garlic,  bacon,  and  dried  calf  skin,  while  the  sides  were 
covered  with  the  whole  battery  of  the  cuisine,  not  forgetting  a 
strolling  tinker  at  work  repairing  the  copper  vessels.  The  huge 
fire-place  in  the  centre,  was  some  ten  feet  square,  rising  conically 
through  the  roof,  not  unlike  the  smoke-stack  of  a  furnace.  The 
grape-vine  fire  burned  brightly,  surrounded  by  dark-visaged  and 
bearded  muleteers  in  their  bandit-appearing  costume,  singing 
and  cracking  their  jokes,  awaiting  the  contents  of  the  various 


840  YALLADOLID. 

copper  pots  distributed  upon  the  embers  and  suspended  over  the 
flames.  In  manner  I  was  awaiting  my  puchero,  one  of  the  best 
Spanish  dishes,  divested  of  oil  and  garlic,  and  composed  of  beef 
and  vegetables  boiled.  Mj  appetiie  was  arrested,  however,  by 
the  bleating  cries  of  a  poor  calf  three  weeks  old,  which  was 
being  massacred  by  the  fire-side.  It  had  no  effect  upon  a  poor 
famished  soldier,  who  had  entered  and  ordered  a  bowl  of  broth 
and  a  morsel  of  bread,  which  seemed  to  restore  him  until  he 
disclosed  his  poverty  and  inability  to  pay.  In  vain  he  solicited 
relief  fi'om  those  present ;  the  cook  took  his  handkerchief  in 
payment,  and  drove  him  away.  I  interceded  and  relieved  the 
poor  man,  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  guests,  but  the  cook  looked 
daggers,  for  he  had  lost  his  prize.  Travelling  in  the  interior  of 
uncivilized  Spain  is  doing  penance,  but  one  is  amply  compensated 
for  it  in  the  enjoj^ments  of  the  large  cities,  and  in  the  examina- 
tion of  the  monuments  and  works  of  art. 

Valladolid  was,  in  the  sixteenth  century,  the  seat  of  royalty, 
and  as  such  was  adorned  with  splendid  edifices,  under  Charles 
V. ;  but  its  beautiful  river  and  fertile  country  were  abandoned 
for  upstart  Madrid,  situated  in  a  desert  plain,  to  gratify  the 
caprice  of  a  monarch.  Its  population  dwindled  from  fifty  thou- 
sand to  half  the  number.  Buonaparte  made  sad  work  with 
the  convents  in  1S09,  as  the  relics  of  art  now  collected  in  the 
museum  testify.  Some  of  the  finest  specimens  of  wood-carving 
by  Juan  de  Juani  are  found  here,  while  exquisite  and  elaborate 
fagados  of  convents  in  marble  still  exist  in  perfection.  All  the 
public  archives  of  Spain  are  preserved  at  Simancas,  a  town 
and  castle  about  two  leagues  from  here.  The  strong  castle, 
surrounded  by  a  moat,  was  a  well  selected  site  when  the  capital 
was  here ;  but  it  is  now  too  fiir  removed  from  Madrid.  There 
are  some  thirty  rooms  filled  with  state  papers,  the  correspon- 
dence of  foreign  governments  and  the  provinces.  The  papers 
of  the  Inquisition  are  very  numerous ;  also  war  orders  and 
original  dispatches  of  the  Grand  Captain,  letters  of  the  different 
monarchs,  the  cori-espondence  of  Christopher  Columbus,  the 
Inventory  of  Isabella's  jewelry,  and  her  last  will  and  testament 
besides  the  title  deeds  to  the  Duke  of  Wellington's  estate. 
Napoleon  ordered  the  most  curious  documents  to  Paris,  as  he  had 
already  plundered  Vienna  and  Rome.  Some  eight  thousand 
packages  and  bundles  were  sent  to  Paris,  but  after  the  battle  of 


DINING   WITH   THE   INFANTA.  341 

Waterloo  most  of  them  were  restored.  The  French  soldiers 
destroyed  large  numbers,  as  the  strings  were  useful,  and  the 
papers  served  to  make  beds,  and  to  light  camp  fires. 

Documents  bearing  date  in  the  13th  and  14th  century  are 
dry  and  perfectly  preserved,  as  are  those  of  the  present  day. 

There  is  sufficient  of  interest  to  occupy  one  pleasantly  a  few 
days,  but  having  diverged  considerably  from  the  main  route, 
I  shall  proceed  to  Burgos,  celebrated  for  its  Gothic  Cathedral, 
and  from  thence  branch  off  to  the  left  and  visit  the  Basque  pro- 
vinces of  the  north.  Having  strong  recommendations  here  to  the 
husband  of  the  Infanta,  or  king^s  sister,  who  occupies  the  palace 
of  Philip  III.,  I  was  hospitably  entertained.  It  was  in  this 
palace  that  Buonaparte  was  lodged,  and  he  looked  out  of  the 
window  upon  two  of  the  noblest  specimens  of  religious  Gothic 
art  in  the  world ;  the  interior  is  destined  to  destruction,  but  the 
exterior  sculptures  of  these  convents  still  remain  in  their  purity. 
Invited  to  dine  en  famille,  I  found  myself  with  a  little  circle  of 
five  persons,  the  seat  of  honor  being  reserved  for  me  beside  the 
Infanta.  A  sumptuous  repast  and  choice  old  wines  were  served 
by  three  full-liveried  servants,  after  which  the  conversation 
turned  upon  our  beloved  country,  who  found  a  defender  present, 
and  one  disposed  to  portray  her  beauties  and  capacities  as  far  as 
was  consistent  with  his  position.  The  evening  closed  agreeably 
at  the  opera.  You  will  probably  hear  from  me  again  from 
Santander  or  Bilboa,  in  the  north. 


LXXXIX. 

San  Sebastian,  Spain,  May  23,  1853. 
From  Valladolid  to  Burgos,  some  seventy  miles  by  diligence, 
'  the  road  was  dry  and  dusty,  and  the  country  uninteresting ;  the 
villages  were  poor,  and  the  soil  badly  cultivated.  The  land  tax, 
and  the  conscription  for  the  army,  are  discouraging  to  the  culti- 
vator of  the  soil ;  the  j^outh  are  liable  to  be  taken  and  forced  to 
quit  their  native  country,  and  sent  to  the  Island  of  Cuba,  or 
the  Philippine  Islands,  as  was  the  case  recently  while  I  was 
in  Santander.  Some  two  hundred  were  sent  off"  in  a  crowded 
vessel  at  this  unpropitious  season,  to  arrive  in  the  yellow  fever 
months  at  Havana. 


842  BUKGOS. 

The  city  of  Burgos  was  sacked  and  burnt  by  the  French  army 
in  1808,  and  its  population  of  fifty  thousand  dwindled  down  to 
twelve  thousand ;  but  it  is  mostly  rebuilt,  and  presents  a  tolerable 
appearance.  The  great  attraction  for  strangers  is  its  Gothic 
Cathedral,  one  of  the  finest  in  Spain,  and  of  great  antiquity, 
having  been  commenced  in  the  year  1221.  It  was  respected  by  the 
French  during  the  war.  This  immense  edifice  has  two  towers 
with  spires  of  open  stone-work,  which  in  the  distance  appear 
as  light  as  lace-work,  and  one  wonders  how  it  can  endure  this 
blustering  climate.  The  chapels  are  as  large  as  some  churches, 
and  filled  with  tombs  of  sculptured  marble  and  stained  glass. 
The  white  stone  of  some  of  the  interior  walls  and  buttresses 
inclosing  the  choir  represents  in  sculpture  the  life  of  Christ,  his 
agony,  the  supporting  of  the  cross,  the  crucifixion  and  ascension ; 
the  building,  like  other  edifices  of  the  kind  in  Spain,  is  a  perfect 
museum  of  art,  pictures,  statuary,  and  carved  wood.  The  cere- 
monies of  the  Ascension  were  consummated  while  I  was  there, 
in  the  presence  of  a  vast  assemblage  from  town  and  country, 
giving  one  a  good  opportunity  to  observe  the  variety  of  character 
and  costume. 

From  Burgos  to  Santander,  the  northern  Atlantic  shore  of 
Spain,  is  ninety  miles ;  the  first  portion  is  dreary  and  badly 
cultivated,  and  the  hills  are  high  and  arid ;  but  suddenly  some 
of  the  most  charming  valleys  appear,  and  the  face  of  nature  as 
well  as  the  condition  of  men  changes,  as  we  approach  a  commercial 
port.  Santander  is  an  important  trading  town  of  sixteen  thousand 
souls ;  it  has  fine  stone  quarries,  and  the  air  of  activity  of  trade. 
There  are  large  quantities  of  flour  exported  to  tbe  island  of 
Cuba,  which  is  protected  by  a  heavy  duty  against  our  American 
productions,  and  should  Spain  lose  this  jewel  of  the  crown  the 
blow  would  fall  heavily  upon  the  grain-producing  countries  of 
the  north.  Another  eighteen  hours'  ride,  after  leaving  Santander, 
brought  me  to  Bilboa,  the  capital  of  Viscaya,  situated  upon  the 
little  river  Nervion,  which  divides  the  old  and  new  town,  and  is 
navigable  from  its  entrance  at  Portugaleta,  a  small  town,  to  the 
city.  Bilboa  lies  in  a  gorge  of  hills,  and  has  a  damp  climate ; 
the  vegetation  is  luxuriant,  the  country  is  most  romantic  and 
picturesque,  and  the  town  has  a  population  of  some  fourteen 
thousand.  Although  still  in  Spain,  appearances  have  changed, 
as  the  Basque  provinces  of  the  north,  comprising  Alava,  Yiscaya, 


THE   BASQUE   PROVINCES.  343 

and  Guipuzcoa,  forming  the  mountainous  angle  of  the  N.  W.  of 
the  Spanish  PeninsuLa,  are  the  home  of  the  aboriginal  inhabitants 
who  were  never  subdued  or  expelled,  but  were  the  first  to  sally 
forth  from  the  mountains  and  beat  back  the  invading  Moors,  a 
feat  from  which  they  derived  their  nobility,  which  afterwards 
extended  throughout  Spain;  they  consequently  enjoy  certain 
privileges  not  granted  to  any  other  portions  of  the  country. 
They  are  free  from  conscription,  or,  as  the  Spaniards  say,  blood- 
tax,  and  are  exempt  from  laud-tax,  stamps,  and  a  variety  of 
imposts,  to  which  other  parts  of  the  empire  are  subjected. 
They  regulate  their  church  matters,  and  construct  their  own 
roads ;  hence  the  great  and  striking  difference  discernible  in 
the  manners,  agriculture,  manufacture,  and  general  well-being 
of  the  people. 

Tobacco  is  the  great  government  monopoly  in  Spain,  but  here 
it  is  free,  cheaper,  and  of  better  quality  than  elsewhere,  which 
affords  a  great  opportunity  for  the  contraband  trade.  It  is  a 
great  annoyance  in  Spain  to  have  your  luggage  searched  in 
every  town  you  arrive  at ;  mine  has  already  been  examined 
some  fifteen  times,  without  leaving  the  territory,  or  having  any 
Spanish  property  in  addition  to  my  own.  The  Basques  are  a 
strong,  hardy,  and  athletic  race ;  they  were  invaded  by  sea  in 
the  year  879  by  the  Norwegians,  and  partly  overcome,  which 
accounts  for  their  light  complexion  and  form.  The  women  per- 
form the  work  of  men.  Arriving  at  the  diligence  office  and 
giving  the  name  of  my  hotel,  as  an  American  I  felt  mortified  on 
seeing  my  trunk  moved  off  on  the  head  of  a  woman  ;  but  I  soon 
discovered  it  was  customary,  and  submitted. 

Their  holidays  are  celebrated  with  song  and  dance  and  ball 
playing.  On  Sunday  the  public  promenade  near  the  Cathedral 
was  filled  with  children  of  all  ages,  with  their  nurses,  enjoying 
the  dance,  while  on  the  opposite  banks  of  the  river,  within  fifty 
yards  of  the  Basilica,  were  assembled  some  one  thousand 
grown  persons,  male  and  female,  of  the  middle  and  lower  classes, 
forming  various  groups  and  circles,  in  their  curious  costumes, 
dancing  to  the  sound  of  tambourines  and  fifes,  until  fatigued, 
taking  refreshments,  or  returning  to  the  church,  which,  during 
the  month  of  Maria  or  May,  is  a  perfect  flower  garden.  Banners 
were  suspended  from  cords  extending  from  the  church  to  the 
refreshment  hall. 


344  THE   BASQUE  TONGUE. 

From  Bilboa  to  Sebastian,  is  another  eighteen  hours'  ride^ 
through  a  most  luxuriant,  charming  and  picturesque  country. 
The  farms  are  small,  some  only  five  or  six  acres — just  enough 
for  man,  wife  and  family  to  work  with  spade  or  prong  fork, 
which  turns  up  the  mould  a  great  depth.  The  valleys  and  hill 
sides  are  covered  with  trellised  grape  vines,  and  reminded  me 
much  of  Switzerland;  indeed  the  people  resemble  the  Swiss 
from  their  hardy  habits  and  attachment  to  their  country. 

A  fair  was  held  at  Bregada,  a  town  at  which  I  halted  ;  it  was 
a  festival  day  in  the  villages.  It  rained,  but  not  sufl&cient  to 
stop  the  dance  of  the  peasants,  who  stood  in  brogues  made  of 
skins,  tied  with  strings,  and  were  cutting  it  down  in  the  mud, 
the  water  oozing  out  from  the  openings.  The  women,  with 
hair  in  long  plaited  tresses  and  heads  tied  round  with  handker- 
chiefs, seemed  to  enjoy  it  hugely.  The  language  no  one  but 
those  bred  in  the  country  pretends  to  understand.  Authors 
differ  as  to  its  history.  One  asserts  that  Adam  spoke  Basque 
and  that  it  was  the  language  of  the  angels,  and  was  brought  pure 
into  Spain  before  the  confusion  of  tongues  at  Babel ;  another 
says,  that  angelic  or  not,  it  is  so  difficult  that  the  devil,  who  is 
no  fool,  studied  seven  years  in  the  Bilboas,  and  learned  only 
three  words.  The  use  of  various  tongues  in  the  same  empire  is 
a  source  of  great  evil,  and  causes  distrust  and  jealousy,  giving 
despots  great  advantage.  The  Basques  proper  are  not  under- 
stood out  of  their  jurisdiction ;  the  Catalonians  are  not  under- 
stood by  their  neighbors,  the  Yalencians ;  the  Majorcans  have  a 
jargon  of  their  own ;  the  Gallicians  are  in  like  manner  mixed 
up  with  the  Portuguese.  The  Andalusians  do  not  speak  the 
true  Castillian,  consequently  it  is  only  in  Castile  and  a  part  of 
Arragon  that  the  language  is  spoken  in  its  purity ;  quite  unlike 
the  enlightened  republic  of  our  country,  where  free  education 
and  the  liberty  of  the  press,  and  constant  unrestrained  communi- 
cation absorb  all  other  tongues,  and  make  the  English  language 
general  and  intelligible  through  the  land.  This  is  the  last 
important  town  in  Spain  before  crossing  the  frontier  of  France ; 
the  distance  now  to  Baj^onne  is  only  eleven  leagues.  San 
Sebastian  is  built  on  an  isthmus  under  a  conical  hill  which  rises 
some  four  hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  and  is  crowned  by  a 
castle.  The  approach  is  made  easy  by  walks  planted  with  trees, 
and  here   are   found   the   graves  of  many  English  officers,  to 


SAN  SEBASTIAN,  345 

whom  monuments  have  been  erected,  with  the  inscriptions  in 
their    own    Language.     It    was   the    theatre   of   several   sieges 
between  the  French,  English,  and  Spaniards,  and  the  town  was 
sacked  and  destroyed.     The  new  town  which  is  of  rectangular 
form,    with    its   plazas,    shops,    arcades   and   tall   houses    with 
balconies   of  uniform   appearance   and  color,   looks   quite   un- 
Spanish.     It  has  a  handsome  beach,  and  is  much  resorted  to  in 
summer  for  sea-bathing.     The  greatest  difference  is  observable 
between  these  Basque  towns  and  those  in  the  south,  for  the  attrac- 
tions here  are  those  of  Nature  and  not  of  Art.     The  fruits  of  the 
north  are  found  here.     Fruit  is  abundant  in  the  mountains,  and 
many  valleys  and  points  of  view  on  the  road  carried  me  back 
to  the  magnificent  scenery  of  the  valley  of  the  Schuylkill  and 
Delaware.     I  find  myself  far  removed  from  the  orange  groves, 
but  apples  are  here  in  profusion,  and  the  tables  are  served  by 
the   light   Chacoli   wine  and  cider  of  the  country.     The  solid 
balconied  stone   manor   houses   of  the  wealthy  appeared  like 
fortresses,    bearing  their  armorial   shields  sculptured  over  the 
portals,  for  the  Basques  pride  themselves  on  being  the  original 
nobility  of  Spain,     The  law  of  primogeniture  still  exists  as  in 
England,  but  with  the  modification  that  the  inheritor  may  dispose 
of  one  half  of  the  inheritance  ;  and  as  they  are  a  money-getting 
and  commercial  people,  the  purse  is  getting  the  ascendency  over 
title.     Having  formerly  seen  the  south  and  west  of  Spain,  and 
m  this  journey  the  east,  centre  and  north,  I  have  had  a  fine 
opportunity  of  judging  of  this  peculiar  country,  closely  bound 
together  under  one  form  of  government,  but  composed  of  as 
different  materials,  in  point  of  language,  manners  and  costume, 
as  of  soils  and  climates,  full  of  provincial  prejudices,  but  loyal 
to   the   crown,    unanimous   in  religion,  and  opposed  to  foreign 
innovations.     In    private   life  civil  and  polite  to  the  stranger; 
warm  friends,  but  implacable   enemies.     I   shall   now   proceed 
to   Bayonne ;    thence   to   Pau,    and   the   famous  baths   of   the 
Pyrenees,    in  the  south  of  France ;  thence  I  shall  return,  via 
Bordeaux,  Eochefort,  La  Rochelle,  and  Nantes,  on  my  way  to 
Paris, 


346  BAYONNE. 


xc. 


Paris,  June  20,  1853. 

From  San  Sebastian  to  Irun,  the  firet  frontier  town  on  the 
high  road  to  Madrid,  we  rode  along  the  coast  through  a  wild, 
scraggy,  shrubby  country.  At  that  place  I  was  relieved  of 
my  Spanish  passport,  and  vise  for  France  with  an  additional 
charge  of  two  francs.  We  soon  crossed  a  small  stream  which 
separates  the  two  countries ;  the  little  bridge  was  guarded  on 
each  side  by  sentinels,  one  of  whom  examined  the  passport  to 
see  if  it  was  properly  vise  to  leave  Spain,  the  other  if  it  was 
en  regie  to  enter  France.  We  were  accompanied  as  far  as  the 
frontier  by  two  distinguished  refugees  from  France,  who  had 
received  a  visit  from  their  families  at  the  first  town,  but 
dared  not  cross  the  line  under  pain  of 'transportation  to  Cay- 
enne. 

I  had  previously  met  with  several  in  different  parts  of  Spain, 
who  had  narrowly  escaped  by  crossing  the  Pyrenees,  exposed  to 
hunger,  cold,  and  exhaustion.  Over  this  bridge  had  passed  half 
a  million  of  French  troops  during  the  invasion  of  Spain  under 
Buonaparte,  half  of  whom  never  returned  alive.  The  lug- 
gage once  examined  at  the  frontier  custom-house,  a  few  hours 
carried  us  to  Bayonne,  through  a  rich  and  cultivated  soil,  with 
fine  houses  dotting  the  country,  so  unlike  the  uncultivated 
wastes  in  the  interior  of  Spain.  Bayonne  is  an  old,  walled,  sea- 
port town,  of  considerable  commerce,  situated  upon  both  banks 
of  the  Duoro,  with  shady  ramparts  and  pleasant  wooded  envi- 
rons. Its  citadel  was  the  key  of  Marshal  Soult's  position  in 
1814,  and  was  the  scene  of  one  of  the  most  bloody  conflicts 
between  the  English  and  French,  which  cost  the  lives  of  two 
thousand  men.  Here  the  Bayonnais  used  their  knives  in  the 
muzzles  of  their  muskets,  which  gave  them  the  name  of  bayo- 
nets, and  introduced  that  weapon  in  modern  warfare.  A  few 
miles  from  Bayonne  is  Biaritz,  much  resorted  to  for  sea-bathing; 
the  shore  is  high,  rocky,  and  iron-bound,  but  the  bays  are  sandy, 
and  the  village,  with  its  snug  cottages  and  tenements,  has  some- 
what the  air  of  our  own  Cape  May. 

From  Bayonne  I  diverged  to  the  east  to  Oleron,  along  the 
base  of  the  Pyrenees,  in  order  to  visit  Pau,  a  place  much  fre- 


PAU.  347 

quented  by  foreigners  for  the  mildness  of  its  climate,  and  to 
make  excursions  to  the  celebrated  watering-places,  Pau  is  a 
lovely  and  attractive  spot ;  its  natural  scenery  is  the  admiration 
of  all  visitors ;  the  beautiful  chateau  of  Henry  TV.  is  in  the 
centre,  upon  a  very  commanding  position.  It  is  now  undergo- 
ing repairs,  and  preparing  for  the  reception  of  the  French 
emperor  in  July. 

Les  Eaux  Bonnes,  the  favored  resort  of  the  Countess  Mon- 
tejo,  the  present  empress,  and  Les  Eaux  Chaudes,  or  hot  springs, 
are  situated  in  the  mountain  gorges  of  the  towering  Pyrenees, 
where  we  found  excellent  hotels,  and  all  the  recreations  and 
diversions,  and  agreeable  winding  walks  which  nature  and  art 
can  contrive,  and  which  induce  thousands  of  fashionables  and 
invalids  to  resort  thither  during  the  hot  months  of  summer. 

The  bathing  establishments  are  on  a  stupendous  scale.  The 
valleys  are  teeming  with  a  numerous  and  industrious  population 
in  their  simple  garb,  and  we  see  women  and  children  with  their 
simple  utensils  of  husbandry  in  hand ;  the  little  patches  are 
worked  by  hand,  as  the  land  is  divided  in  small  parcels,  and 
frequently  women  are  seen  holding  the  scratching  sort  of  plough, 
while  the  husband  takes  the  place  of  the  horse,  or  vice  versa, 
when  the  representative  of  the  animal  is  fatigued.  These  sim- 
ple peasantry,  who  are  buried  in  snow  six  months  of  the  year, 
now  employ  every  moment  of  their  time  to  provide  their  winter 
supplies.  They  look  forward  with  great  pleasure  to  the  arrival 
of  the  empress  in  July. 

From  Pau,  in  another  direction,  a  distance  of  forty  miles,  lies 
Tarbe,  a  considerable  town  in  a  beautiful  valley.  I  stopped 
there  to  visit  the  Ilara,  a  government  establishment  which  con- 
tains one  hundred  and  twenty  of  the  finest  horses  in  France, 
imported  from  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa,  for  the  improvement 
of  the  race.  Thence  I  proceeded  to  the  baths  of  Bagniere 
de  Bigore,  a  pleasant  town,  famous  for  its  hot  ferruginous 
baths,  and  gi'catly  resorted  to.  The  largest  marble  manufactur- 
ing establishment  I  had  ever  visited,  I  found  here,  employing 
some  one  hundred  and  fifty  hands.  The  great  variety  of  mar- 
ble found  in  the  Pyrenees  enables  the  stone-cutters  to  work  to 
great  advantage ;  the  execution  is  on  a  larger  scale  than  in  the 
mines  of  Carrara,  in  Italy,  where  a  large  population  is  employed, 
but  upon  smaller  work.     Here  the  huge  blocks  are  sawed  by 


348  BOKDEAUX. 

water  power,  and  tlie  work,  from  heavy  altar  pieces  down  to 
ladies'  ornaments,  is  skilfully  and  delicately  wrought. 

IS^ot  unlike  our  Kentucky  farmers,  who  produce  large  droves 
of  mules  for  the  Southern  States,  the  mountaineers  here  derive  a 
handsome  profit  from  the  raising  of  these  animals  for  the 
Spanish  markets.  In  France  horses  are  almost  universally  in 
use,  while  in  Spain  the  hardy  mule  endures  better  the  coarse  fare 
of  the  road.  In  making  my  excursions  I  found  myself  reduced 
from  a  Spanish  diligence  with  eight  or  ten  mules,  to  a  pair  of 
horses  and  caleche,  as  the  summer  lines  were  not  yet  established. 
Another  twenty  hours'  ride  from  Pau,  brought  me  to  Bordeaux, 
upon  the  banks  of  the  Garonne — the  city  most  renowned  in 
France  for  its  wines,  and  having  an  extended  commerce  to  all 
parts  of  the  world.  Bordeaux  will  soon  be  in  direct  connexion 
with  Paris,  by  means  of  railroad,  a  distance  of  some  three  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles,  in  ten  to  twelve  hours.  I  found  that  the 
city  had  improved  extensively  since  I  visited  it  in  1847.  It 
was  then  a  fiitiguing  ride  by  diligence,  but  it  will  soon  be  a 
pleasant  trip  from  Paris.  Instead  of  returning  by  the  same  route, 
I  descended  the  river  by  steamer  to  Blaze,  and  thence  passed 
through  the  beautiful  grape  districts  en  route  to  Rochefort, 
famous  for  its  arsenal ;  there,  as  well  as  at  Toulon,  the  French 
marine  is  seen  in  its  perfection.  The  town  is  regularly  planned, 
with  wide  streets,  well-paved  sidewalks,  and  large  gardens  laid 
out  in  miniature,  in  the  form  of  the  Tuileries  of  Paris.  The 
walls  or  ramparts  are  planted  with  shade  trees,  which  have 
attained  an  immense  size,  and  form  beautiful  promenades. 

The  head-gear  of  the  peasant  women  is  the  most  peculiar  in 
France.  They  wear  plain  white  or  embroidered  caps  upon  a 
form  suited  to  the  head,  rising  eighteen  inches  in  height,  the  top 
extended  like  a  fan ;  the  elderly  women  are  more  moderate  in 
their  patterns,  but  the  young  girls  seem  to  rival  each  other  in 
the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  floating  material.  The  next 
town  en  route  is  La  Rochelle,  in  striking  contrast  to  Rochefort 
for  cleanliness  and  beauty.  Its  commerce  consists  chiefly  in  the 
exportation  of  brandies,  as  the  region  of  country  about  Cogniac 
is  almost  exclusively  devoted  to  and  dependent  upon  the  spirit 
trade. 

From  Rochelle  I  proceeded  to  Nantes,  one  of  the  principal 
cities  of  France,  situated  upon  the  Loire.     I  arrived  on  a  Sun- 


NANTES.  349 

day  morning,  and  large  preparations  had  been  made  for  a  church 
festival  and  procession  from  the  cathedral.  Nantes,  like  all  other 
towns  in  France,  as  well  as  Spain,  has  its  octroi  duties,  and 
every  article  of  consumption  pays  its  tribute  at  the  gates,  for  tlie 
municipal  support  of  the  city.  The  conductor  of  the  mail  coach 
had  carefully  concealed  a  leg  of  mutton  and  a  basket  of  peas  for 
his  festival  dinner.  His  negative  reply  to  the  general  question, 
if  he  had  anything  to  declare,  did  not  satisfy  the  officer,  who, 
after  a  diligent  search  amongst  the  luggage,  brought  out  the 
unfortunate  treasure,  which  was  put  upon  the  scales,  weighed, 
and  taxed,  much  to  the  annoyance  of  its  owner,  as  well  as  the 
detention  of  the  passengers  and  mail.  The  houses  and  balconies 
of  several  streets  were  hung  with  tapestry,  and  adorned  with 
garlands  of  natural  and  artificial  flowers,  immense  altars  with 
gold  and  silver  tinsel  ornaments  occupying  the  angles  and 
squares  through  which  the  procession  passed,  with  long  lines  of 
musicians,  the  military,  the  church,  and  civil  officers,  followed 
by  a  thousand  girls  in  white  robes  and  veils — all  got  up  with 
French  delicacy  and  taste ;  it  had  a  happy  effect.  At  Nantes  I 
first  availed  myself  of  the  railroad,  as  I  had  made  a  long  detour 
along  the  coast  in  order  to  visit  the  places  named,  avoiding  other 
cities  on  the  main  route  which  I  had  formerly  visited.  It  was 
with  no  small  satisfaction  that  I  took  the  express  train,  at  the 
rate  of  forty  miles  per  hour,  for  Angers,  an  antiquated  city 
within,  surrounded  by  a  boulevard  of  noble  trees  upon  the  for- 
mer rampart.  It  has  a  famous  castle  of  immense  size,  built  by 
the  Roi  d'Augon ;  it  covers  a  large  surface,  and  has  seventeen 
towers.  A  fair  was  held  there  at  the  time,  which  attracted  a 
large  concourse  of  people.  My  next  stopping  point  was  at 
Amboise,  where  I  visited  the  chateau  which  was  the  property  of 
the  Orleans  family ;  it  is  eligibly  and  magnificently  situated  upon 
the  banks  of  the  Loire,  and  is  a  perfect  fortress  in  itself.  Here 
was  shown  the  apartments  where  Abd-el  Kader  and  his  suite 
were  confined  nearly  six  years,  as  his  captivity  in  the  chateau  of 
Henry  lY.,  at  Pan,  was  of  short  duration.  The  gardens  and 
grounds,  upon  an  elevation  more  than  one  hundred  feet,  are  very 
picturesque,  and  here  he  delighted  to  pass  most  of  his  time.  In 
one  corner  of  the  grounds  which  he  occupied  are  seen  the 
mounds  of  twenty-six  out  of  ninety  Arabs  who  died  during 
their  confinement.     The  country  through  which  I  passed  was 


850  THE   CHATEAU   OF   CHAMBORD. 

the  garden  of  France.  It  was  a  continuous  village;  the  cultiva' 
tion  was  close,  and  the  small  forms  abounded  in  products  of  every 
variety;  vineyards  and  fruit  were  in  profusion:  cottages  and 
farm-houses  were  almost  within  gun-shot  of  each  other.  From 
Amboise  I  continued  by  railroad  to  Tours,  which  contains  one 
of  the  finest  cathedrals  in  France.  The  fast  line  soon  carried  me 
to  Blois,  to  visit  its  famous  chateau,  partly  restored  under  the 
administration  of  Louis  Philippe ;  the  interior  woodwork,  paint- 
ing, and  gilding,  are  of  the  most  choice  execution.  From  Blois 
to  the  modern  and  unfinished  chateau  de  Chambord,  belonging 
to  Henry  V.,  the  present  legitimate  incumbent  to  the  French 
throne,  is  five  leagues  distant  from  the  main  route.  I  was  well 
repaid  for  my  ride.  The  structure  is  gigantic,  the  style  of  archi- 
tecture is  of  varied  character,  and  is  a  souvenir  of  monuments  of 
different  European  ages,  as  well  as  Oriental  styles.  The  build- 
ings were  never  finished,  but  appropriations  have  been  made  by 
government  to  continue  the  work.  The  grounds  inclosed 
occupy  about  eight  miles  square,  with  several  villages  of  tenantry, 
Orleans,  the  next  large  city  en  route,  has  one  of  those  mammoth 
Gothic  cathedrals  so  much  bepraised ;  but  I  have  spoken  so  fre- 
quently  of  the  works  of  art,  that  the  subject  must  have  become 
tiresome  to  you.  The  city  was  full  to  overflowing,  and  with 
much  difficulty  I  procured  quarters ;  the  agricultural  and  horti- 
cultural fair  and  cattle-show  produced  such  multitudes  as  we  see 
in  our  own  State.  Finally,  I  was  not  a  little  rejoiced  to  return 
to  Paris,  after  the  fatigue  of  a  somewhat  protracted  voyage,  I 
might  have  gone  into*  detailed  accounts  and  filled  several  sheets 
since  I  last  wrote  you,  but  I  desisted,  as  my  eyes  have  not 
recovered  their  full  force  since  I  left  the  glare  and  dust  of 
Madrid.  I  expect  to  leave  Paris  the  early  part  of  July,  on  my 
way  home. 


YARMOUTH.  351 


18  5  4. 
XCI. 

Marseilles,  February  27,  1854. 

My  apology  for  not  writing  since  mj  departure  for  Europe,  in 
November  last,  is  of  the  most  plausible  nature.  I  have  been 
under  the  care  of  two  of  the  most  scientific  oculists  of  Paris  for 
the  past  six  weeks,  for  the  relief  of  a  species  of  ophthalmy, 
produced  by  the  excessive  glare  of  light,  and  fine  dust  during 
my  journeyings  in  Spain  last  year.  Finding  myself  partially 
relieved,  and  once  again  on  my  winding  way,  I  will  briefly  state 
that  less  than  a  month  had  elapsed  from  the  time  I  stepped  on 
board  the  fleet  and  gorgeous  steamer  Arctic,  for  Liverpool,  before 
I  found  myself  in  the  great  Babylon  of  modern  times,  London. 

After  a  hasty  visit  to  the  manufacturing  establishments  of 
Manchester  and  Bradford,  looking  in  upon  the  famous  steel- 
works of  Sanderson  &  Son,  and  the  cutlery  shops  and  depots  of 
Joseph  Rodgers  k  Son  (both  of  Sheffield),  spending  a  Sabbath  in 
the  old  city  of  York,  and  enjoying  the  chanting  of  melodious 
voices,  from  a  numerous  choir  in  its  much  renowned  Cathedral, 
I  made  an  excursion  to  a  cheese  foir,  where  I  found  John  Bull 
up  to  his  shoulders  in  tons  of  choice  Cheshire  and  Stilton. 

The  powerful  agency  of  steam,  and  the  perfection  of  the 
railway  sj^stem,  soon  transported  me  across  England  to  the 
eastern  counties,  the  land  of  my  ancestors,  famed  for  its  agricul- 
ture and  game ;  thence  to  Yarmouth,  the  old  town  celebrated  for 
its  fisheries  and  sea-bathing,  with  its  labyrinths  of  lanes,  num- 
bering from  one  to  a  hundred,  through  its  very  centre ;  only 
accessible  for  donkeys  and  foot  passengers,  impenetrable  to  foes 
without,  and  impracticable  to  home  police  in  case  of  revolt. 
The  herring  fisheries  were  prodigious,  and  I  recognised  the  cut 
of  the  Hollanders,  who  were  attracted  thither  with  their  vessels. 
Providence  in  his  wisdom  had  caused  the  ocean  to  yield  a 
substitute  for  that  which  the  soil  this  year  refused,  and  in  return 
for  ingratitude  the  surplus  was  thrown  upon  the  land. 


352  BARCLAY   &   PERKIISrS. 

Several  excursions  were  made  from  the  city  of  Norfolk  to  the 
farms  of  some  of  the  branches  bearing  our  family  name,  over 
well  macadamized  roads,  and  through  highly  cultivated  grounds, 
surrounded  with  hawthorn  hedges,  inclosing  herds  of  Devonshire, 
Hereford,  and  other  famous  breeds  of  cattle,  not  forgetting  the 
flocks  of  Southdown  and  Leicester  sheep,  feeding  from  hurdles, 
upon  the  large  Euta  Baga  turnip ;  the  scenery  is  interspersed 
with  game  forests  belonging  to  the  lords  and  nobility ;  they 
were  delightful  to  the  eye.  But  it  was  necessary  to  look  further, 
and  inquire  into  the  working  of  the  system.  The  products  of 
the  country  bring  high  prices,  but  tithes  and  taxes  reduce  them. 
Labor  is  ill  rewarded,  and  the  distinction  between  the  rich  and 
the  respectable  poor  is  too  strongly  marked.  The  cry  is  for 
reform,  and  the  British  Parliament  will  be  obliged  to  listen  to  it. 
One  of  the  parties  whom  I  visited  pays  eighty  pounds,  or  four 
hundred  dollars,  church-tithes  annually,  in  lieu  of  one-tenth  part 
of  the  crop,  and  without  the  enjoyment  of  any  of  the  advantages, 
for  he  is  of  the  reformed  religion,  and  has  a  small  church  upon 
his  grounds. 

The  season  was  cold  and  wet,  unfavorable  for  a  long  sojourn 
in  England.  I  remained  some  ten  days  in  London,  re-visiting 
some  of  the  public  monuments  and  works  of  art,  which  I  had 
formerly  described  to  you  ;  also,  the  famous  brewery  establish- 
ments of  Barcla}^,  Perkins  &  Co.,  and  Henry  Meux  &  Co.,  which 
are  among  the  great  sights  of  the  metropolis ;  the  former,  parti- 
cularly, has  been  visited  by  thousands  of  strangers  since  the 
expulsion  of  Gen.  Haynau,  the  Austrian  butcher,  by  Barclay 
&  Perkins's  draymen. 

These  works  are  gigantic,  covering  several  acres  of  ground, 
and  employing  millions  of  capital.  The  quantity  of  ale  manu- 
factured on  the  average  is  equal  to  a  thousand  barrels  (of  thirty- 
six  gallons)  each  per  day ;  the  gross  quantity  is  four  hundred 
thousand  barrels  each  per  annum,  which  enters  into  ordinary 
consumption,  as  ale  and  porter  are  the  general  beverage  of  the 
nation,  and  its  first  source  of  revenue  under  the  excise  is  the 
malt  and  hop-tax.  It  is  curious  to  look  over  the  stables  of  one 
hundred  and  fifty  of  their  mammoth  dray-horses  ;  the  name  of 
each  is  lettered  over  the  stall.  A  small  engine  is  used  for  cutting 
hay  and  straw,  and  cracking  the  grain,  for  feeding. 

I  attended  the  Smithfield  Cattle  Show,  which  gave  me  an 


guy's  hospital.  353 

opportunity  of  seeing  tlie  finest  specimens  of  English  and  Scotch 
fat  cattle,  of  the  choicest  breeds  I  had  ever  seen,  the  famous 
heifer  of  Wra.  H.  Worrall,  of  Dutchess  county,  being  the  only 
exception  for  her  age.  Prince  Albert  took  the  first  prize  for  the 
finest  exhibit  of  pigs. 

Having .  attended  the  State  Fair  at  Saratoga  last  autumn,  I 
was  better  enabled  t,o  judge  of  our  Poultry  Show,  which  certainly 
compared  favorably  with  the  exhibition  which  took  place  while 
I  was  in  Norfolk,  The  drove  of  Kentucky  cattle,  after  a  long 
drive  to  Saratoga,  will  be  admitted  by  those  who  saw  them 
to  have  been  a  beautiful  sight,  and  gratifying  to  American 
pride. 

Having  made  a  sort  of  pilgrimage  through  one  branch  of  my 
ancestry,  I  was  anxious  to  visit  in  detail  the  work  of  another 
branch,  the  Guy  Hospital  in  London,  founded  by  Thomas  Guy,, 
whose  honored  name  I  bear.  This  noble  Institution,  one  of  the 
most  celebiated  in  the  world  for  its  usefulness,  was  founded  in 
1722,  upon  a  gigantic  scale,  in  the  Borough,  across  London  Bridge.. 
The  founder,  a  bachelor,  who  had  amassed  a  large  fortune  in 
trade  and  in  the  South  Sea  Expedition,  conceived  the  laudable 
project  of  establishing  an  institution  for  all  time,  for  the  relief  of 
suffering  humanity.  The  buildings  are  airy  and  spacious,,  the 
residences  of  the  governors  exceedingly  comfortable.  He  lived 
to  complete  the  work,  and  enjoy  the  pleasure  of  its  fruits  for 
some  twenty  years,  leaving  an  endowment  of  two  hundred 
thousand  pounds.  The  grounds  have  been  enlarged,,  and  new 
structures  have  been  added  with  all  the  recent  improvements  for 
heat  as  well  as  ventilation,  and  it  is  now  capable  of  containing 
from  three  hundred  to  four  hundred  patients,  with  a  degree  of 
comfort  and  cleanliness  almost  equal  to  a  well  regulated  hotel- 
A  small  lunatic  asylum,  separate  and  distinct,  is  within  the 
grounds,  inclosed.  The  museum  is  a  collection  of  wax  figures, 
for  the  use  of  medical  students,  portraying  almost  all  the  diseases 
to  which  the  human  family  is  liable ;  it  is  a  separate  building, 
and  is  equal  in  merit  to  the  famed  exhibitions  which  I  had 
visited  in  Montpelier  in  France,  and  Florence  and  Bologna  in 
Italy.  The  institution  is  in  the  most  flourishing  condition, 
thanks  to  the  legacy  of  the  generous  Mr.  Brooks,  who  left  it  his 
entire  fortune,  upwards  of  a  million  of  dollars.  Medicines  are 
distributed  to  all  who  apply,  which  privilege  is  abused,  as  I 

23 


854  A  COURT  BALL. 

noticed  in  attendance,  in  airy,  comfortable  halls,  in  one  wing  of 
the  buildings,  seated  upon  benches,  scores  of  men,  women,  and 
children,  many  even  handsomely  dressed,  who,  through  avarice 
avail  themselves  of  this  charity ;  but  the  will  of  the  testator  must 
be  observed. 

Notwithstanding  the  agitation  of  the  Oriental  Question, 
and  the  high  price  of  provisions,  I  found  Paris  in  the  midst  of 
its  holiday  festivities.  The  government  understands  so  well  the 
wants  and  desires  of  the  small  dealers  in  fancy  articles,  that  all 
sorts  of  amusements  are  encouraged,  whereby  money  is  put  in 
circulation.  Several  magnificent  balls  have  been  given  by  the 
Emperor  at  the  Tuileries.  The  Municipality  of  Paris  has  also 
given  grand  balls  at  the  Hotel  de  Ville.  Masquerade  balls  take 
place  weekly  at  the  Grand  Opera.  Tiae  condition  of  my  eyes 
prevented  my  joining  in  many  of  the  gaieties  of  Paris.  The 
evening  of  my  presentation,  however,  to  the  Emperor  and 
Empress,  I  assisted  at  the  Court  Dress  Ball  at  the  Tuileries, 
where  were  present  some  three  thousand  persons,  and  it  was  cer- 
tainly the  most  brilliant  affiiir  I  had  ever  seen  in  Europe  before. 
We  were  some  twenty-five  persons  in  the  saloon  adjoining  the 
imperial  apartments,  awaiting  a  special  presentation  ;  after  which, 
following  in  the  train  of  the  ladies  of  honor  to  the  grand  saloon 
of  the  Marshals,  the  dense  multitude  opening  in  line,  we  formed 
ouTselTCS  in  front  of  a  sort  of  throne,  with  an  orchestra  for  the 
music  alone.  Their  Imperial  Majesties  being  seated,  were  sur- 
rounded by  the  ex-king  Jerome  Bonaparte,  the  Grand  Duchess 
of  Baden,  and  other  distinguished  members  of  royalty.  The 
Emperor  opened  the  ball  with  the  wife  of  the  Ambassador  of 
Belgium,  the  Empress  dancing  with  the  Minister  of  Austria;  the 
quadrille  was  made  up  by  the  Minister  of  Finance,  Mr.  Fould, 
and  Marshal  Magnan,  and  their  partners.  The  dance  then 
became  general  in  the  vast  saloons  adjoining,  and  the  music  of 
an  additional  fanciful  kind.  Waltzing  was  followed  by  beautiful 
young  ladies  and  their  cavaliers,  who  aspired  to  the  privilege  of 
displaying  themselves  in  the  presence  of  the  Imperial  group. 
The  vast  gilded  saloons  of  this  immense  palace  were  brilliantly 
illuminated  from  suspended  candelabra ;  the  great  variety  of 
uniforms.  Military,  Naval,  Diplomatique  and  Civil,  Turkish, 
Greek,  and  Hungarian,  and  others,  with  the  rich  costly  robes  of 
the  ladies,  certainly  presented  one  of  the  most  magnificent  speo* 


THE   DUKE   OF  BRUNSWICK.  855 

tacles  tlie  eye  could  behold;  diamonds,  emeralds,  rubies,  and 
other  precious  gems,  were  dazzling  to  one's  eyes. 

Mr.  Mason,  our  Minister,  appeared  in  court  dress,  notwith- 
standing the  request  of  Secretary  Marcy  to  all  diplomatic  func- 
tionaries to  appear  only  in  plain  garb,  which  instruction  should 
have  been  made  positive,  if  made  at  all,  and  it  would  not  have 
led  to  the  unpleasant  incidents  already  experienced  by  our  repre- 
sentatives. 

As  simple  citizens  of  the  Republic,  we  must  subscribe  to  the 
rules  of  foreign  courts,  or  exclude  ourselves  from  such  festivities ; 
consequently  necessity  obliged  me  to  take  my  rank  as  aide-de- 
camp, with  a  sword  and  chapeau.  One  of  the  most  "  observed  of 
all  observers,"  was  a  German  Prince,  the  Duke  of  Brunswick, 
who  was  a  burlesque  on  royalty.  He  wore  a  peruque  with  curls, 
thick  rouge  on  his  face,  a  court  dress  emblazoned  with  gold  and 
precious  stones;  white  doe-skins,  with  diamond  knee-buckles; 
silk  stockings,  and  pumps  with  diamond  shoe-buckles;  his  epau- 
lettes were  of  topaz  and  diamonds,  the  scabbard  and  hilt  of  his 
sword  were  of  gold,  beset  with  emeralds,  rubies,  and  brilliants ; 
his  breast  was  covered  with  orders  and  massive  gold  chains, 
encircled  with  gems;  even  his  chapeau  was  decorated  in  like 
manner.  In  a  word,  he  was  an  eccentric,  and  in  my  eyes  a  vain 
and  conceited  personage. 

The  early  refreshment  saloons,  and  the  two  o'clock  supper 
halls  at  the  two  extreme  ends  of  the  banquet  rooms,  were  visited 
by  the  imperial  party,  after  which  they  retired. 

The  entertainment  was  sumptuous,  and  what  might  be 
expected  from  imperial  munificence,  with  the  art  and  taste  of 
the  French  cuisine. 

From  Paris  to  Chalons,  by  railway,  eleven  hours'  ride,  a 
night's  repose,  and  eight  hours'  descent  of  the  Saone  by  steamer, 
through  what  would  be  a  picturesqne  country  at  a  more  favora- 
ble feature  of  the  year,  and  one  finds  himself  at  the  great  silk 
manufacturing  city  of  Lyons. 

The  navigation  of  the  Rhone  was  interrupted  by  low  water. 
Last  year  I  made  half  the  distance  to  Avignon  by  steamer  at 
the  same  season ;  now  I  had  no  recourse  except  a  twenty-four 
hours'  ride  in  the  diligence  ;  two  hours'  additional  by  railroad 
brought  me  to  this  commercial  city  of  Marseilles  for  the  fourth 
time.     Of  course  I  have  nothing  new  to  offer  you. 


356  SARDINIA, 

I  propose  visiting  two  islands  of  the  Mediterranean,  which  I 
have  not  seen,  and  of  which  little  is  known  by  travellers.  The 
first,  Corsica,  which  gave  birth  to  Napoleon,  is  improving ;  but 
the  other  island,  Sardinia,  remains  in  a  primitive  state,  so  I 
shall  probably  meet  with  something  that  will  interest  you. 


XCII. 

Ajaccio,  Island  of  Corsica,  March  12,  1854. 

I  WROTE  you  from  Marseilles,  the  great  southern  commercial 
port  of  France,  where  much  activity  prevailed  at  this  season 
among  the  vessels,  in  consequence  of  the  excessive  imports  of 
grain,  through  the  failure  of  the  French  harvest.  I  responded 
to  the  civilities  of  our  Consul,  in  dining  with  our  Charge 
d' Affaires  from  Naples,  and  embarked  the  following  day  for 
Porto  Torres,  a  small  seaport  upon  the  island  of  Sardinia,  a  dis- 
tance of  some  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  by  steamer,  touching 
at  Corsica.  A  heavy  sea  and  head  wind  delayed  us;  the  jour- 
ney occupied  some  thirty  hours.  Thence  I  proceeded  to  the 
principal  city,  which  is  called  Sassari,  and  contains  a  population 
of  some  twenty  thousand  persons. 

I  found  the  people  more  benighted  than  in  any  of  the  other 
islands  of  the  Mediterranean  I  had  yet  seen. 

The  population  of  the  entire  island  is  estimated  at  three  hun- 
dred and  fifty  thousand ;  its  length  is  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles,  and  it  is  from  sixty  to  eighty  miles  in  width.  It  belongs 
to  the  kingdom  of  Sardinia.  The  peasantry  live  in  villages, 
and,  not  unlike  those  of  the  interior  of  the  island  of  Sicily,  go 
long  distances  to  cultivate  the  soil,  and  may  be  seen  at  early 
morn  in  their  coarse  black  cloaks,  with  hoods  as  substitutes  for 
hats,  and  dark  leggings  below  white  cotton  pants  extending  to 
the  knees,  trudging  out  with  their  donkeys,  which  bear  their 
implements  of  husbandry. 

The  women  and  children,  while  watching  their  flocks  of  sheep 
and  goats,  have  a  sort  of  distaff  in  their  hands,  and  spin  with 
their  fingers  the  coarse  wool  which  serves  for  their  rude  covering. 

In  the  mountains  large  numbers  are  found  who  have  no  habi- 
tations, and  live  in  a  state  of  barbarism,  covering  themselves 
with  skins,  bruising  grain  between  two  flat  stones,  and  making 


SASSARI.  357 

a  sort  of  paste  wliich  is  cooked  upon  the  ground,  after  tlie 
fashion  of  the  Arabs  on  the  desert  sands. 

The  country  is  infested  with  bandits.  Game  is  abundant,  and 
fire-arms  are  kept  bj  all  who  can  afford  them.  Life  is  unsafe, 
and  comforts  are  scarcely  known  in  the  cities ;  certainly  not 
outside  of  them. 

The  roads  are  somewhat  protected  by  gens  d'armes,  who  are 
useful  in  pursuing  the  banditti.  We  picked  up  eighteen 
gens  d'armes  on  the  road  ;  they  say  that  the  bandits  fly  at  their 
approach,  but  if  cornered,  fight  desperately. 

My  casual  travelling  companion  was  going  to  see  a  person 
under  sentence  of  death  for  the  murder  of  his  brother;  the  cul- 
prit was  in  his  employ  and  confidence,  but  he  basely  shot  him 
in  the  back  while  they  were  riding  their  horses  quietly  along 
the  road.  My  companion's  object  was  to  ascertain  what  induced 
the  commission  of  the  crime.  The  custom  is  to  execute  the 
criminal,  if  possible,  upon  the  spot  where  the  assassination  was 
committed. 

The  soil  is  fertile,  but  poorly  cultivated,  and  thinly  inhabited. 
The  island  has  but  little  commerce.  The  olive  groves  look 
well,  and  furnish  oil  in  abundance.     Cork  forests  abound. 

The  town  of  Sassari  is  encircled  with  walls  and  gates ;  the 
streets  are  narrow,  and  badly  paved ;  the  houses  are  of  stone, 
lofty,  but  filthy  ;  the  inhabitants  are  dirty.  A  very  small  por- 
tion of  the  people  seem  in  easy  circumstances.  They  have  a 
theatre,  which  is  not  indifferent,  as  all  the  Italian  races  must 
have  an  opera.  The  cathedral,  built  in  the  thirteenth  century, 
is  the  only  respectable  monument  of  antiquity  which  I  found. 

The  clergy  swarm,  the  profession  being  resorted  to  as  a  mili- 
tary exemption,  and  more  profitable  than  that,  without  regard 
to  fitness  or  qualification ;  consequently  they  have  a  bad  repu- 
tation. 

I  could  not  have  believed  that  I  should  have  found,  in  such 
proximity  to  the  continent,  a  people  so  behind  the  age,  and  so 
far  below  the  standard  even  of  the  Corsicans  under  French  rule. 

I  was  not  sorry  to  escape  and  get  to  this  place,  some  seventy 
miles  by  water,  where  one  finds  the  journals  from  the  continent, 
and  a  much  higher  state  of  civilization,  and  where  fire-arras  are 
prohibited,  which  is  producing  great  changes  in  the  habits  of  the 
people. 


358  AJACCio. 

Ajaccio  is  situated  upon  a  gulf  of  some  ten  miles  in  depth  ;  it 
has  about  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants,  and  contains  some  fine 
public  buildings ;  unfortunately,  however,  it  has  but  little  com- 
merce. It  is  the  birth-place  of  Napoleon,  who  is  the  pride  of 
the  Corsicans.  The  house  where  the  hero  was  born  still  stands 
in  an  obscure  part  of  the  old  town,  upon  a  little  square  called 
Piazza  Letizia.  It  was  in  those  days  considered  a  fine  edifice. 
The  identical  spot  is  shown,  and  the  circumstances  related  of  his 
birth,  on  the  return  of  his  mother  from  the  solemnities  of  the 
mass  on  Assumption  Day,  15th  August,  1769.  The  property 
has  been  purchased  by  the  present  Emperor  of  France,  who  has 
appointed  a  person  to  guard  it,  and  preparations  are  now  being 
made  for  its  restoration. 

The  family  of  Bonaparte  was  of  the  ancient  nobility,  and 
originated  in  Florence,  Italy.  Charles  Bonaparte,  the  father, 
was  appointed  Deputy  of  the  nobles  of  Corsica,  in  1779,  and 
died  in  Montpelier,  France,  in  1785,  being  only  88  years  of  age. 
His  wife,  Letitia  Burnolino,  born  in  1750,  gave  birth  to  thirteen 
children,  all  born  here;  five  died  young,  and  the  remaining  eight 
comprised  one  emperor,  three  kings,  one  prince,  one  queen,  and 
two  princesses. 

A  monument  has  been  erected  in  the  public  square,  to 
Napoleon,  by  his  nephew.  Napoleon  III,,  since  his  elevation 
in  France. 

The  Hotel  de  Ville  contains  the  portraits  of  the  family,  and 
a  good  life-like  statue  in  marble,  of  Jerome,  while  king  of 
Westphalia. 

In  the  Grotto  Napoleon,  about  a  mile  from  the  town,  after 
winding  through  olive-groves,  the  ambitious  boy  delighted  to 
pursue  his  youthful  studies. 

The  public  promenades,  adorned  with  orange  trees  and 
almonds  in  bloom,  the  gardens  filled  with  olives  and  a  pro- 
fusion of  tropical  fruits,  afford  a  grateful  sight,  after  escaping 
from  the  chilling  winds  of  the  continent. 

All  through  the  south  of  France  I  had  noticed  great  activity 
in  the  movement  of  troops  for  embarkation  for  the  East.  In 
descending  the  Saone,  our  steamer's  deck  was  occupied  by  the 
conscripts,  mostly  young  men,  who  were  leaving  home  and 
quiet  occupations  for  the  first  time  perhaps,  for  the  uncertain 
chances  of  war.     They  are  distributed  to  points  where  actual 


ARMY   DUTY.  859 

duty  is  not  required,  replacing  well-formed  troops  who  are  sent 
to  the  seat  of  war.  Some  thousands  who  had  been  held  in 
reserve  until  needed  are  now  sent  from  Corsica  for  the  marine 
and  land  service. 

Under  the  French  system,  every  able-bodied  male  is  liable  to 
army  duty,  at  twenty -one  years  of  age.  On  a  certain  day,  which 
is  publicly  proclaimed,  the  parties  draw  for  their  chances.  In 
the  absence  of  the  young  man,  his  mother  or  some  other 
authorized  person  draws  for  him.  He  is  then  liable,  and  when 
the  call  is  made  he  must  either  supply  his  place  or  serve ;  even 
after  an  absence  of  years,  on  his  return,  he  is  seized  for  the 
service.  Eighty  thousand  men  are  thus  drawn  annually  ;  the 
term  of  duty  is  seven  years.  The  necessities  of  the  nation  have 
not  required  the  number  drawn ;  but  now  the  balance  or  reserve 
of  four  or  five  years  past  is  called  upon  here,  more  particularly 
to  fortify  the  marine.  The  Corsicans  from  the  mountains  make 
good  soldiers,  and  distinguish  themselves  as  officers,  and  are  a 
brave  and  warlike  people.     The  sea-coast  furnishes  good  sailors. 

It  is  curious  to  observe  the  difference  in  the  habits,  customs, 
and  governments  of  two  islands  which  at  their  extreme  points 
nearly  touch  each  other,  at  least  by  a  chain  of*  small  islands.  In 
Sardinia  the  language  is  a  patois,  and  changes  in  character  from 
one  point  to  another,  partaking  strongly  of  the  Italian  on  one 
side ;  partially  of  the  Arabic  in  the  south  ;■  and  in  the  west 
slightly  of  the  Spanish  ;  while  here  the  French  is  commonly 
understood,  though  the  Italian  patois  is  the  language  of  the 
people.  But  what  can  be  expected  where  every  restriction  is 
placed  upon  communication  ? 

I  had  my  passport  examined  and  vise  five  times  in  Sardinia, 
at  considerable  expense,  notwithstanding  it  bore  the  Ambassador's 
vise  of  the  kingdom  of  Sardinia  at  Paris,  for  which  he  had  exacted 
his  fee.  All  these  checks  upon  intercourse,  and  these  annoy- 
ances, only  tend  to  put  a  little  pocket-money  into  the  hands  of 
officials. 

In  Sardinia,  tobacco  is  cultivated,  but  the  Government  seizes 
the  product,  and  pays  its  price.  The  sale  of  cigars  is  a  monopoly, 
consequently  the  quality  is  very  bad,  and  the  prices  are  double 
those  of  this  place,  where  the  people  are  exempt  from  the  tax 
which  exists  on  the  article  there,  and  also  in  France. 

I  was  strongly  reminded  of  the  Basque  provinces  in  the  north 


860  CORSICAN  VENGEANCE. 

of  Spain,  at  Bilboa  and  St,  Sebastian,  where  the  people  enjoy  a 
similar  privilege  in  the  free  sale  and  manufacture  of  the  weed. 
There,  as  here,  the  poor  employ  themselves  in  making  cigars, 
which  are  superior  to  those  for  which  you  pay  double  at  the 
government  shops  on  the  peninsula.  The  consequence  is  that 
everybody  smokes  by  common  consent. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  features  in  the  Corsican  race  is 
the  spirit  of  vengeance,  which  for  centuries  has  existed  among 
them,  and  which  is  most  difficult  to  eradicate.  Thanks  to  the 
government  of  the  emperor,  the  carrying  of  arms  is  strictly  pro- 
hibited here,  and  eight  thousand  gens  d'armes  are  scattered  over 
an  island  three  hundred  and  sixty  miles  in  circumference, 

A  most  salutary,  but  arbitrary  law,  applicable  to  the  case, 
arrests  and  imprisons  the  parents,  family,  and  friends  of  an  out- 
law or  bandit  who  has  fled  to  the  mountains,  or  is  concealed. 
In  this  way  his  maintenance  is  cut  off;  and  a  reward  is  offered 
for  his  head.  Frequent  instances  have  been  known  where  per- 
sons have  harbored  bandits  through  fear,  and  have  performed 
the  execution  of  the  law,  and  divided  the  reward  with  the  gen- 
d'armerie. 

Instances  were  not  rare,  before  such  rigorous  measures  were 
adopted,  of  sending  anonymous  letters  demanding  sums  of 
money,  or  submission  to  the  consequences.  Families  exter- 
minated each  other.  The  mother  guarded  sacredly  the  linen  of 
a  murdered  husband,  until  her  son  was  capable  of  resenting  the 
act,  when  his  vengeance  was  excited  by  the  blood-stained  gar- 
ment of  the  father,  A  gentleman  acquaintance  informed  me, 
that  when  he  came  on  the  island,  some  years  since,  he  gave  a 
little  soiree,  to  which  were  invited  the  elite  of  the  little  town 
where  he  resided.  His  daughter  had  misplaced  her  handker- 
chief; observing  another  upon  a  hat,  she  took  it  up  and  dis- 
covered pistols,  and  could  not  conceive  the  object.  When  the 
party  retired,  the  report  of  fire-arms  was  heard  in  all  directions. 
The  friends  and  servants  of  the  parties  opposed  had  chosen  the 
opportunity  for  i^evenge. 

This  characteristic  is  said  to  have  existed  since  the  wars  with 
the  Genoese,  and  the  feuds  that  grew  out  of  those  contests. 

The  people  are  hospitable  and  civil,  and  a  stranger  can  now 
travel  over  the  island  in  perfect  safety,  if  he  comports  himself 
properly,  and  avoids  exciting  their  prejudices. 


MANNERS   OF   THE   COESICANS.  361 

Steam  communication  with  the  continent,  and  the  light  of 
civilization,  are  producing  considerable  changes  in  the  condition 
of  this  people. 


XCIII. 

Bastia,  Island  of  Corsica,  March  24,  1854. 

Having  secured  my  place  in  the  coupe,  or  front  seat,  of  a 
small  and  rather  rickety  diligence,  I  started  for  Corte,  a  military 
station  and  town  of  some  five  thousand  inhabitants,  about  the 
centre  of  the  island,  passing  through  a  picturesque  and  moun- 
tainous country,  some  three  thousand  to  four  thousand  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea ;  the  road  was  in  good  condition,  but  at 
times,  in  winter,  it  is  impassable  for  the  snow. 

The  mountain  tops  and  tall  pine  forests,  still  covered  with 
their  white  mantles,  in  striking  contrast  with  the  bloom  and 
verdure  of  the  valleys  below,  spread  out  like  a  map,  presenting 
new  beauties  at  each  turn  of  the  vehicle  in  ascending  the  zigzag 
route,  upon  the  amphitheatred  walled  roads. 

The  Corsicans,  under  their  great  leader  Paolo,  defended  them- 
selves nobly  in  these  mountain  passes  against  their  invaders,  the 
Genoese ;  the  loss  of  the  French  troops,  before  they  were  con- 
quered, was  estimated  at  twelve  thousand  men. 

Aside  from  the  temperature,  I  was  forcibly  reminded  of  the 
kingdom  of  Kandy  in  the  island  of  Ceylon,  which  is  about  an 
equal  distance  from  the  coast,  in  the  mountains,  and  which  could 
not  be  conquered  by  the  English  until  roads  were  constructed 
for  the  transportation  of  their  troops. 

The  hardy  Corsican  mountaineers  subsist  upon  the  chestnuts 
which  abound  here ;  a  species  of  cake,  or  bread,  made  from  the 
flour,  is  their  only  aliment,  aside  from  the  milk  of  their  sheep 
or  goats.  The  skins  and  wool  supply  their  covering  ;  the  cheese 
and  surplus  chestnuts  are  bartered  in  the  towns  for  wine,  and 
what  they  consider  the  luxuries  of  life.  The  varied  tempera- 
ture enables  them  to  produce  wine  of  good  quality,  olive  oil, 
figs,  oranges,  raisins,  lemons,  apples,  pears,  and  nectarines ;  but, 
in  general,  the  Corsicans  are  not  ambitious  in  culture,  contenting 
themselves  with  small  tracts  of  land  ;  the  necessaries  of  life  are 
few  indeed. 


362  BASTIA. 

Tney  are  great  aspirants  for  position  in  military  pursuits,  per- 
severing and  indomitable,  and  frequently  rise  to  rank  in  the 
French  army.  Most  of  the  villages  can  boast  of  one  or  more 
of  their  members  who  have  distinguished  themselves. 

Notwithstanding  all  the  efforts  of  government,  assassinations 
are  still  committed,  and  the  old  family  spirit  of  vengeance  can- 
not be  fully  appeased ;  some  important  cases  among  the  upper 
classes  are  now  pending. 

At  a  village  in  the  mountains,  where  we  halted,  a  case  had 
recently  occurred.  A  party  of  eight  or  ten  were  at  play,  of 
which  they  are  fond,  when  an  altercation  took  place ;  two  of 
the  number  left,  the  landlord  discharging  a  double-barrelled  gun 
as  they  left  the  house  ;  he  deliberately  reloaded,  in  the  presence 
of  the  others,  and,  accusing  a  third  of  taking  part  in  the  affray, 
shot  him  dead  ;  he  then  loaded  again,  embraced  his  family,  and 
escaped  in  the  mountains.  The  magistrate  of  the  district,  ques- 
tioning those  present,  and  calling  them  cowards,  asked  them 
why  they  did  not  prevent  the  crime  ;  they  replied  that  the  per- 
sons assaulted  were  not  friends  or  relatives  of  theirs. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Corte  there  are  some  valuable  quarries  of 
blue  marble.  The  Palais  de  Justice,  now  being  erected  here, 
has  large  and  massive  columns  of  that  material  transported 
thence. 

From  Corte,  the  road  passes  to  the  north-western  part  of  the 
island,  and  to  this  place. 

Bastia,  a  small  and  indifferent  port,  now  in  process  of  improve- 
ment, is  a  city  possessing  a  population  of  some  twenty-five 
thousand,  heterogeneous  races ;  it  is  the  chief  commercial  point 
of  the  island,  and  the  seat  of  government. 

The  old  town,  with  its  lofty  stone  buildings,  narrow  tortuous 
streets,  built  upon  the  hill-side,  and  rising  from  the  water's  edge, 
is  really  curious ;  it  reminded  me  of  the  Grecian  island  of  Scios, 
and  Joppa  in  Palestine,  resembling  at  certain  points  a  town  of 
stairs. 

The  new  part  of  the  town  struck  me  with  astonishment ;  it  had 
broad  streets,  with  mammoth  stone  structures,  five  stories  high, 
cream  yellow,  and  white,  with  modern  green  sashes ;  a  new 
public  square,  and  a  handsome  Italian  marble  statue  of  Napoleon; 
good  hotels,  cafes,  and  baths;  markets,  finely  supplied  witli 
fish,  game,  and  fruits ;  besides  a  delightful  climate,  protected  by 


A   BEAUTIFUL   CAVE.  363 

tlie  mountains  from  the  northern  blasts.  It  struck  me  as  a  sort 
of  paradise,  after  what  I  had  seen  in  the  interior. 

The  secret  of  its  prosperity  is  its  trade  with  Leghorn  and 
Marseilles,  and  it  being  the  residence  of  a  race  possessing  con- 
siderable enterprise.  Many  persons  from  Cape  Corte,  just 
above,  and  here  also,  have  made  fortunes  in  the  West  Indies. 

The  views  from  the  heights,  upon  the  Mediterranean,  with 
the  islands  of  Cabraya,  Elba,  and  Monte  Cristo,  are  very  pretty, 
and  a  drive  along  the  coast,  bordered  by  amphitheatred  walls 
for  the  culture  of  the  grape  and  olive,  is  not  without  interest. 

A  few  leagues  from  town,  upon  the  mountain  side,  somewhat 
elevated,  is  a  curious  cave,  much  resorted  to,  and  particularly 
worthy  of  a  visit,  since  it  is  one  of  the  most  unique  of  its  kind 
that  I  have  ever  seen.  I  taxed  my  memory  to  find  something 
to  compare  with  it;  it  is  not  the  cave  of  Matanzas  in  extent, 
neither  is  it  that  of  the  island  of  Curagoa,  nor  the  Catacombs 
of  Egypt,  nor  the  Salt  Mines  of  Cracow,  which  two  latter  are 
works  of  art ;  but  it  is  a  perfect  gem  of  a  grotto.  At  this 
season  of  the  year  it  is  very  dry.  It  is  private  property,  belong- 
ing to  a  government  officer,  who  has  erected  near  by  a  stone 
cottage  with  stalactite  chimney-pieces  of  beautiful  proportions, 
and  miniature  flower  gardens  among  the  rocks,  and  an  observa- 
tory with  a  delightful  prospect  upon  the  sea  and  fishing  villages ; 
it  is  a  rustic  retreat  for  parties  of  pleasure  in  summer  from 
Bastia.  The  grotto  at  its  entrance  is  walled,  and  the  door  is 
bolted.  Its  guardian,  for  an  established  fee,  will  light  it  up  with 
forty  lamps ;  its  depth  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  Stalac- 
tites form  there  in  summer  from  the  dripping  of  the  water.  The 
great  variety  of  forms  presented  is  really  enchanting.  One 
imagines  himself  for  the  moment  in  the  illuminated  chapel  of  a 
Gothic  cathedral,  with  pillars  supporting  the  proof,  the  half- 
formed  pointed  column  rising  gradually  by  crystallizaiion, 
resembling  with  its  lamp  a  huge  church  candlestick  ;  the  flowing 
white  drapery  falls  upon  the  tomb  of  the  departed,  and  the 
weeping  willow  is  seen  with  its  drooping  branches.  Forms  the 
most  grotesque  are  presented  to  the  imagination.  The  stalactites 
are  as  white  as  alabaster ;  one  could  visit  the  cave  without  soiling 
his  white  kid  gloves. 

In  going  to  the  grotto,  we  leave  the  carriage  road,  which  is 
onl}^  partially  completed,  and  take  the  mule  path  for  nearly  a 


364  OUR   LADY   OF   THE  VASINA. 

league,  passing  through  the  fishing  village  of  Brando,  where 
stands  a  small  church  dedicated  to  their  saint.  Our  Lady  of  the 
Yasina,  to  whom  annual  pilgrimages  are  made  on  the  7th  of  Sep- 
tember. The  sailors  of  the  island,  in  cases  of  peril  or  extreme 
danger,  make  certain  vows ;  and  it  is  curious  to  see  the  results  and 
read  the  names  and  circumstances  as  related  by  each.  The  walls 
are  curiously  carved  with  figures  and  scenes.  Here  may  be 
found  an  exploded  gun,  with  a  description  of  the  miraculous 
escape  of  the  holder  by  the  intervention  of  the  patron  saint ; 
white  robes,  and  satin  shoes,  wreaths  of  flowers,  and  other 
insignia  of  the  funeral  rites  displayed  by  females  saved  from 
the  tomb  at  the  last  moment ;  representations  of  narrow  escapes 
from  shipwreck,  the  angry  waves  lashing  the  frail  bark,  the 
lightning  falling  upon  the  masts,  and  the  Virgin  appearing  and 
conducting  the  vessel  in  safety;  one  person  is  falling  from  a 
citadel ;  others  are  escaping  from  the  monsters  of  the  deep. 

They  have  a  curious  custom  here,  which  would  not  answer  in 
our  country  of  progress.  Their  houses  are  of  stone,  and  loft}^, 
from  four  to  five  stories  high,  and  arched  throughout,  little 
timber  being  used  other  than  for  flooring.  Consequently  fires 
are  unknown.  The  contractor  puts  up  his  building,  and  sells  the 
difierent  stories,  whereby  there  are  as  many  owners  as  stories ; 
the  stairing  is  in  common,  consequently  neglected  and  filthy. 
The  gaping,  dark  entrances,  without  doors,  in  the  night,  seem 
to  invite  the  perpetration  of  crime. 

The  modern  buildings  have  doors,  which  are  closed  at  night, 
as  in  Ajaccio,  where  assassinations  drove  the  mayor  to  the  issue 
of  a  general  order  for  front  doors,  without  exception. 

I  was  strolling  quietly  last  Saturday,  which  was  Beggars' 
Day,  the  only  time  in  the  week  the  police  allow  that  class  to  ask 
alms  publicly,  amusing  myself  in  distributing  among  a  group  of 
urchins  a  quantity  of  chestnut-flour  cakes,  which  they  were 
looking  wistfully  upon,  when  I  found  myself  surrounded  by  a 
crowd  of  beggars,  old,  infirm,  and  lame,  in  tattered  and  torn 
rags,  or  garments  of  many  colors.  Distributing  my  coppers 
among  them,  I  was  glad  to  escape,  and  soon  found  myself  near 
the  entrance  gate  of  the  city. 

Upon  looking  up,  I  saw  the  Eepublican  motto,  effaced  under 
the  Empire,  but  still  peeping  through — "Liberte,  Egalite, 
Fraternite." 


AFTER  THE   HARVEST.  865 

Conviction,  the  most  positive,  strikes  the  mind,  of  the  entire 
incapacity  of  such  masses  of  ignorance;  superstition,  and  poverty 
to  appreciate  the  blessings  of  pure  repubhcanism,  as  it  is  enjoyed 
in  our  favored  land. 

Their  republicanism  means  license  and  anarchy.  The  moral 
and  social  condition  of  the  people  must  first  be  improved,  and 
the  blessings  of  general  education  diffused  ;  their  early  preju- 
dices for  monarchy  must  first  be  eradicated.  In  a  word,  to  be  a 
good  republican,  one  must  be  educated,  or  driven  by  the  tyranny 
of  rulers  to  adopt  a  home  in  a  country  where  the  rights  of  all 
classes  are  respected. 

The  surplus  agricultural  population  of  the  Italian  states  of 
Parma,  Modena,  and  Lucca,  migrate  after  the  harvest  to  this 
island,  where  there  is  a  demand  for  manual  labor.  They  are 
now  returning  in  swarms  with  their  hard-earned  savings  out  of 
thirty  sous  per  day.  It  is  computed  that  some  twenty  thousand 
visit  the  island  annually ;  and  being  exceedingly  frugal,  they 
take  considerable  sums  away  with  them,  which  helps  to  impo- 
verish the  people  here. 

Having  seen  the  birthplace  of  N'apoleon,  as  described  in  my 
last  letter,  from  Ajaccio,  and  being  familiar  with  most  of  the 
localities  of  his  exploits,  I  cannot  resist  visiting  his  place  of 
imprisonment  upon  the  island  of  Elba.  There  are  also  exten- 
sive iron  mines,  which  are  represented  as  very  remarkable. 


XCIV. 

Sienna,  Italy,  April  7,  1854. 
I  REACHED  Leghorn  just  in  time  to  catch  the  little  steamer 
Gilio,  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  tons  burden,  which  composes 
the  entire  Tuscan  government  marine,  with  the  exception  of  a 
few  small  feluccas.  She  makes  regular  trips  to  the  island  of 
Elba,  for  the  conveyance  of  troops  and  their  supplies.  After 
passing  the  usual  strict  examination  at  the  Custom  House  for  the 
contraband  articles  of  cigars  and  firearms,  as  Leghorn  is  a  free 
port,  and  going  through  the  farce  of  signing  passports,  I 
embarked  for  Porto  Ferrayo.  This  strongly  fortified  place  bears 
some  resemblance  to  Malta,  and  appears  almost  impregnable ; 
the  streets  are  well  paved  with  flat  stones ;  the  houses  rise  upon 


366  ELBA. 

tlie  side  hill,  and  are  approached  by  flights  of  stairs  and  pas- 
sages ;  the  crown  of  the  lofty,  craggy  cliffs  is  surmounted  by 
immense  fortifications,  well  mounted  and  manned.  The  town 
has  a  population  of  five  thousand,  and  about  one  thousand 
troops.  By  means  of  a  fosse,  the  tide-water  is  permitted  to  sur- 
round the  city.  From  an  angle  of  the  wall  on  the  summit  of 
the  citadel  is  a  small  observatory,  erected  by  Napoleon,  which 
gave  him  views  from  all  points  of  the  compass.  The  house 
where  he  lived,  a  few  miles  from  the  city,  still  stands,  and  is 
now  the  property  of  Prince  Demidoff,  who  is  erecting  a  palace 
which  will  contain  all  the  relics  which  have  been  preserved  of 
the  Emperor.  The  island  of  Elba  is  only  about  sixty  miles  in 
circumference,  and  about  fourteen  hundred  troops  are  kept 
there  by  the  Tuscan  government.  The  bays  and  shores  are 
picturesque,  and  the  valleys  are  fertile.  There  is  great  suffering 
this  year  in  consequence  of  the  failure  of  the  grape,  wine  being 
their  principal  resource.  I  procured  a  conveyance  to  Longone, 
a  free  port  on  the  south  side  of  the  island,  now  a  fishing  town. 
The  immense  citadel  commanding  the  height  was  built  by  the 
Spaniards  while  in  possession.  It  is  now  dismantled,  and  unoc- 
cupied, except  as  barracks  for  the  land  guard,  and  is  fast  going 
to  decay,  looking  mournful  and  desolate.  Trees  are  growing 
where  once  was  heard  the  busy  tread  of  the  military,  and  goats 
are  feeding  and  cabbages  growing  where  once  was  piled  the 
shot  for  the  enemy.  From  Longone  to  Kio  there  is  no  carriage 
road,  so  I  mounted  a  pony,  with  a  guide  to  run  beside  him,  and 
passed  over  a  path  through  a  hilly  country,  to  the  great  iron 
mines.  I  had  heard  of  the  richness  and  abundance  of  the  ore ; 
I  had  seen  the  extensive  mines  of  Dannemora,  also  mines  in 
England  and  America,  where  the  work  is  mostly  subterranean ; 
but  was  not  prepared  to  find  an  inexhaustible  mountain  of  iron, 
where  three  hundred  men  were  employed  in  cutting  down  and 
blasting  out  the  ore,  which  ranges  in  richness  from  forty-five  to 
eighty  per  cent.;  four  hundred  donkeys  were  wending  their 
way  by  zigzag  paths,  laden  with  this  valuable  product. 

The  village  has  an  active  appearance,  but  is  of  a  dirty  red 
color ;  there  were  vast  inclosures  for  the  ore,  like  huge  coal- 
yards,  where  it  was  piled  preparatory  to  loading  for  different 
ports  for  smelting.  The  brick-dust  colored  earth,  which  remains 
after  the  excavation,  has  a  shining  and  dazzling  appearance, 


FLOEENCE.  367 

from  the  particles  of  minerals  in  it.  The  gardens  of  the  valleys  on 
the  margin  of  a  small  rivulet,  with  their  orange  and  lemon  trees, 
form  a  striking  contrast  in  the  view.  The  Grand  Duke  farms  out 
the  privilege  to  a  company  for  twelve  millions  of  livres,  about  one 
million  eight  hundred  thousand  dollars.  From  Elba  I  returned 
to  Leghorn,  which  city  has  been  materially  improved  and  enlarged 
since  my  last  visit ;  but  being  still  in  a  state  of  siege,  and  pro- 
tected by  Austrian  troops,  the  same  civil  liberties  are  not  enjoyed 
there  as  formerly.  The  little  island  of  Monte  Cristo,  lying 
sixty  miles  north  of  Elba,  is  thirteen  miles  in  circumference. 
It  has  been  purchased  by  a  wealthy  Englishman,  who  has 
retired  thither  with  his  family,  and  is  now  erecting  his  buildings 
upon  it,  emplojnng  many  Italians  from  the  mainland  in  carrying 
out  his  improvements.  lie  is  building  a  yacht  at  Leghorn, 
after  the  model  of  the  America,  and  putting  in  an  engine,  which 
will  be  a  pretty  affair.  From  Leghorn  by  railway  a  half  hour's 
ride  brings  us  to  the  old  city  of  Pisa,  with  its  memorable 
Leaning  Tower,  Duomo  or  Cathedral,  Baptistry,  and  Campo 
Santo ;  the  latter  is  considered  sacred  from  its  containing  a 
portion  of  the  earth  brought  from  Jerusalem,  in  which  repose 
the  dead.  It  was  agreeable  to  me  to  visit  the  spots  I  had 
frequently  trod  during  a  long  sojourn  in  this  old  city,  and  to 
find  numbers  of  those  I  had  formerly  known,  still  pursuing 
quietly  the  same  course  without  change.  A  branch  railroad 
took  me  to  Lucca,  to  call  upon  some  old  acquaintances,  and, 
on  my  return,  I  proceeded  to  Florence,  the  capital,  and  residence 
of  the  Grand  Duke,  and  the  seat  of  the  arts  of  Tuscany.  How- 
ever captivated,  and  even  infatuated,  one  may  be  upon  a  first 
visit  to  the  solid,  massive,  and  majestic  palaces,  with  their 
"  beautiful  frescoes,  their  well-filled  galleries  of  sculpture  and 
paintings,  the  colossal  bronze  statues  of  the  public  fountains, 
the  decorations  of  the  churches,  the  chaste  and  delicate  mosaic 
work  of  the  altars,  it  is  not  to  be  expected  that  I  should  now  go 
into  raptures  upon  a  third  visit  to  Italy.  .  .  .  The  eye  tires  in 
gazing  upon  vast  collections  of  works  of  art,  and  finds  relief  in 
escaping  to  the  beautiful  and  extensive  ducal  gardens  of  the 
palace,  where  one  may  enjoy  the  works  of  nature  amid  long 
avenues  of  shady  trees,  listening  to  the  sound  of  bubbling 
fountains,  with  groups  of  nymphs,  heroes,  gods  and  goddesses, 
in  marble,  as  mute,  silent  auditors.     Returning  from  a  ramble, 


368  SIENNA. 

I  took  my  favorite  seat  in  the  cafe  Doney,  much,  resorted  to  by 
strangers,  and  reflected  upon  the  events  which  occurred  during  the 
revolution  of  1848 — the  granting  of  constitutional  privileges,  the 
liberty  of  the  press,  the  marching  of  troops  against  the  enemy, 
the  illuminations  of  victory  at  night,  the  songs  of  patriotism,  the 
wailing  and  lamentation  at  the  defeat  of  the  Italian  troops  in 
Lombardy,  the  funeral  mausoleums,  and  the  lighted  candles 
over  the  uniforms  and  arms  of  the  victims  in  the  churches,  the 
transparencies  and  anathemas  of  the  clergy,  the  mournful  pro- 
cession of  the  masses  by  torchlight  with  the  crucifix  at  the  head. 
All  had  passed  away,  liberty  was  crushed ;  the  Austrian  troops 
now  occupy  the  ground  and  keep  down  revolution ;  the  police 
are  active  and  vigilant.  One  cannot  drive  to  the  Casino,  a 
favorite  forest  ride,  without  showing  his  passport  at  the  gate. 
Within  three  days  from  one's  arrival,  a  protectional  passport  must 
be  procured,  at  an  expense  of  twelve  pauls,  or  a  dollar  and 
twenty -five  cents.  In  my  reflective  mood,  up  tripped  a  flower- 
girl,  in  her  picturesque  Florentine  costume,  with  flowing  Leghorn 
hat  and  red  ribbon,  basket  in  hand,  and  presented  a  bouquet, 
with  the  salutation  "  Come  sta  signore,  Come  sta  su  Amico  ?" 
It  was  pleasant  to  be  recognised  and  awakened  from  my  reverie; 
but  the  excellent  person  of  whom  she  inquired,  and  who  had 
occupied  so  frequently  the  same  seat  beside  me  at  table,  had 
finished  his  mortal  career. 

The  ancient  city,  Sienna,  from  which  I  write,  is  situated  upon 
an  elevation  of  some  thirteen  hundred  feet,  rising  from  the 
borders  of  a  dry  and  dreary  tract  of  country.  Many  of  the 
streets  are  narrow,  and  impassable  for  carriages.  This  is  one  of 
the  few  points  in  Italy  I  had  not  seen,  and  I  make  the  visit  on 
my  way  to  Rome,  for  the  Holy  Week.  Its  lofty  antique  palaces 
are  the  monuments  of  its  former  grandeur,  while  a  Republic  and 
rival  of  France. '  It  possessed  then  two  hundred  thousand  inha- 
bitants; the  number  is  now  reduced  to  twenty-five  thousand. 
The  Cathedral  is  a  fine  old  structure  of  the  13th  century,  and 
contains  many  beautiful  works  of  art.  The  mosaic-work  of  the 
choir  is  covered  with  planks,  to  shield  it  from  the  tread  of 
visitors,  but  a  fee  to  the  custode  enables  one  to  see  the  flight  of 
the  Israelites  from  Egypt.  The  wood  carving  of  the  stalls  of  the 
choir  of  the  13th  and  14th  centuries  is  exquisite,  but  not  superior 
to  work  of  the  same  style  found  in  the  old  churches  of  Yalladolid. 


AT   EOME   AGAIN.  369 

Some  of  the  frescoes  of  Raphael,  representing  different  events  in 
the  life  of  Pius  II.,  are  remarkable  for  their  color  and  preserva- 
tion. The  choir  books,  of  large  size,  on  parchment,  are  beautifully 
illuminated,  and  resemble  a  collection  at  the  Escorial.  In  the 
chapel  of  one  of  the  churches,  begun  in  1220  and  finished  in 
1465,  is  a  large,  beautiful,  and  celebrated  picture  of  the  Madonna, 
by  Guido  ;  the  Siennese  claim  the  honor  of  being  the  earliest  in 
the  art  of  painting.  I  was  struck  with  the  preference  of  the 
pretty  women  for  this  chapel,  and  was  led  to  inquire  its  history. 
In  fact,  the  ladies  here  are  celebrated  for  their  beauty.  The 
public  palace,  with  its  lofty  tower  in  the  form  of  an  escalop  shell, 
and  its  circuit  of  one  thousand  feet,  sloping  down  like  an  ancient 
theatre,  and  filled  with  the  peasants  of  the  country  on  a  market- 
day,  is  a  gay  and  novel  sight. 

The  people  of  this  district  speak  Italian  with  greater  purity 
than  the  inhabitants  of  any  other  part  of  Italy — they  are  the 
reverse  of  the  Milanese,  Genoese,  and  Neapolitans,  who  have  a 
distinct  patois  of  their  own,  which  tends  to  prevent  that  unanimity 
and  nationality  so  much  required  for  the  future  welfare  of  Italy. 


XCY. 

Rome,  Italy,  Ajyril  20,  1854. 
Once  again  in  this  old  city,  the  mistress  of  the  arts,  and  at 
the  close  of  Passion  "Week  with  its  gorgeous  functions  and 
church  ceremonies  renowned  throughout  the  world.  On  two 
former  visits,  one  under  Pope  Gregory  XVI.,  the  other  under 
the  present  Pope  Pius  IX.,  I  attempted  to  describe  the  magni- 
ficence and  splendor  exhibited  on  these  annual  festivals.  It 
would  require  volumes  to  speak  of  modern,  aside  from  ancient 
Rome,  with  its  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  population, 
now  largely  augmented  by  foreigners  from  every  clime ;  its 
three  hundred  churches,  rich  in  sculpture  paintings,  and  frescoes ; 
its  three  hundred  and  thirty-five  palaces,  and  thirty  villas ;  its 
five  hundred  streets  and  two  hundred  and  seventy-three  lanes ; 
its  one  hundred  and  forty-eight  public  piazzas  or  squares ;  its 
aqueducts,  bridges,  and  twelve  Egyptian  obelisks,  aside  from 
its  fifty  public  fountains,  more  bountifully  supplied  with  water 
than  perhaps  any  city  in  the  world. 

24 


870  BEGGARS. 

As  to  antiquities — they  abound  on  all  sides,  an  evidence  of 
what  Rome  was  in  her  glory,  an  inheritance  of  which  she  cannot 
be  deprived,  and  in  which  now  consists  her  chief  resource. 
Being  destitute  of  commerce,  without  the  annual  concourse  of 
strangers  to  the  seat  of  the  Catholic  church,  the  modern  city 
would  dwindle  down  to  a  village.  I  find  since  my  last  visit 
that  the  hotels  have  increased  in  number  and  size,  and  that  the 
shops  for  the  manuflicture  and  sale  of  mosaics,  cameos,  and  other 
objects  of  art,  have  been  enlarged  and  beautified.  Gas  has  been 
recently  introduced  to  a  limited  extent,  and  telegraph  communi- 
cation extended  to  Florence  north,  and  Naples  south ;  but  here 
public  or  government  enterprise  ceases.  The  railroad  system 
was  vetoed,  the  Pope's  advisers  deciding  against  it.  Beggars  are 
as  abundant  as  ever,  and  in  the  country  pauperism  is  fearful. 
The  short  crops  of  the  past  year,  and  the  over  taxation  of  the 
badly  administered  Italian  governments,  drive  many  to  mendi- 
city from  necessity.  One  requires  leather  pockets  to  carry  copper 
coin  in  to  supply  the  tribe,  for  no  sooner  is  one  hungry  swarm 
satisfied  than  another  as  hungry  arrives.  This  is  the  most  disa- 
greeable feature  of  Italian  travel. 

I  came  down  from  Sienna  by  post,  a  distance  of  some  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles.  And  here,  to  draw  a  comparison  in 
favor  of  our  own  happy  country,  abounding  with  plenty  for 
which  we  cannot  be  sufliciently  thankful,  I  must  cite  the  fact 
that  in  some  of  the  mountain  villages  the  number  of  beggars 
was  so  great  that  the  conducteur,  to  my  horror,  provided  him- 
self with  a  dog-whip  to  resist  their  importunities.  The  paper 
currency  of  the  country  is  at  a  discount  of  seven  per  cent.  Since 
the  Republic  an  issue  of  a  million  of  dollars  has  been  made  in 
copper  coin,  like  large  medals,  of  five  Baiocchi,  equivalent  to 
five  cents  each,  which  in  the  scarcity  of  gold  and  silver  enters 
into  general  circulation.  We  required  a  large  sack  to  pay  postil- 
lions. Everything  is  quiet  here  under  the  protection  of  some 
seven  thousand  troops,  who  may  be  seen  daily  on  parade,  and 
standing  guard  throughout  the  city ;  they  are  very  civil  and 
under  good  discipline.  The  weather  has  been  delightful  during 
Holy  Week ;  the  city  thronged  with  strangers,  every  means  of 
conveyance  in  requisition,  the  almost  daily  visits  to  St.  Peter's 
and  the  Yatican,  with  the  other  sights  of  the  city,  gave  much. 
animation.     The  heavy  carriages  of  the  cardinals,  with  wheels 


PALM   SUNDAY.  .  371 

and  bodies  of  gold  and  silver  gilt,  the  famous  black  borses  with 
massive  gold  plated  harness,  with  two  coachmen  and  three  foot- 
men in  richly  embroidered  livery,  added  greatly  to  the  scene. 
On  Palm  Sunday  took  place  the  presentation  to  the  Pope  of  the 
cardinals  in  full  regalia,  bishops,  priests,  the  noble  guard, 
princes  and  foreign  ministers  in  full  costume,  and  the  kissing  of 
his  Holiness's  slipper;  then  came  the  blessing  singly  of  palm 
leaves  tastefully  wreathed  and  braided,  of  which  some  three 
hundred  were  provided  for  the  ofl&cers  and  soldiers  of  the  army 
who  had  made  special  application  for  them.  The  rush  of  thou- 
sands to  witness  the  ceremonies  of  washing  the  feet  of  twelve 
pilgrims  by  the  Pope  in  person,  in  St.  Peter's ;  their  banqueting 
at  a  well  furnished  table  in  commemoration  of  the  Last  Supper; 
the  services  in  the  Sistine  Chapel,  the  beautiful  music  of  the 
Miserere,  and  the  Lamentations  of  Jeremiah ;  the  exhibition  of 
the  Holy  Relics ;  the  nails  which  it  is  said  fastened  our  Saviour 
to  the  cross,  some  of  the  wood  of  which  is  shown ;  the  handker- 
chief, inclosed  in  crystal,  with  which  Santa  Veronica  wiped  the 
face  of  Christ ;  the  baptism  with  oil  and  water  of  a  converted 
Jew  and  a  negro  girl  at  the  Baptistry  of  Constantine,  and  the 
ceremonies  of  confirmation  at  the  Basilica  of  San  Giovanni  de 
Laterano;  all  were  calculated  to  keep  up  the  excitement  of 
strangers,  and  employ  them  fully  during  the  Holy  Week. 

Having  witnessed  these  ceremonies  for  the  third  time  here, 
as  also  on  a  similar  occasion  at  Jerusalem,  with  all  the  rites 
of  the  Greek  and  Latin  Catholics,  Arminians,  and  Copts,  not 
omitting  the  extravagant  exercises  of  Spain,  Peru,  and  the 
island  of  Cuba,  the  scenes  have  become  so  ftimiliar  that  I  cannot 
describe  to  you  the  gorgeous  display  under  the  same  impressions 
as  formerly.  Still  it  must  be  admitted  that  high  mass  on 
Sunday,  at  the  close  of  the  week,  the  Pope  officiating  in  person 
in  the  vast  edifice  of  St.  Peter's,  in  full  pontifical  robes  and 
jewelled  mitre,  surrounded  by  thirty  or  forty  cardinals,  with 
a  host  of  bishops  and  other  members  of  the  clergy,  in  their  rich 
attire ;  the  temporary  loges  festooned  with  red  damask  drapery 
fringed  with  gold,  and  occupied  by  the  Princes  of  Prussia, 
Saxony,  and  France,  in  uniform  ;  the  Swiss  Guards,  with  helmets 
and  coats  of  mail ;  hundreds  of  the  fliir  sex  in  black  church 
dresses;  hundreds  of  soldiers  with  fixed  bayonets,  and  again 
other  thousands  of  the  masculine  race  in  dress  coats  and  white 


372  .  HOLY  WEEK. 

kid  gloves — the  whole  together  presents  perhaps  the  most  daz- 
zling group  of  court,  religious,  and  the  military  display  in  the 
world.  At  the  close  of  high  mass  the  Pope,  in  his  pontifical 
chair,  supported  upon  the  shoulders  of  twelve  bearers  in  red  silk 
costume,  with  a  brilliant  cortege,  is  carried  to  the  balcon}'  of  St. 
Peter's  in  the  presence  of  the  expectant  multitude  of  some 
fifty  thousand  persons,  composed  in  part  of  cavalry  and 
infantry.  The  vast  square  as  I  saw  it  from  the  top  of  the 
colonnade  was  one  dense  mass  of  humanity ;  heads  were  unco  vered 
during  the  brief  service,  then  the  whole  multitude  at  a  given 
signal  fell  upon  their  knees,  and  the  benediction  was  pronounced. 
The  bells  of  all  Eome  send  forth  their  merry  peals,  the  thun- 
dering cannon  of  St.  Angelo  roar  along  the  Tiber,  and  the 
crowd  disperse.  The  evening  illumination  of  the  cathedral, 
St.  Peter's  with  its  immense  faQade  of  colonnades,  and  three 
domes  brilliantly  lighted  as  if  by  magic,  with  eight  thousand 
lamps,  closed  the  ceremonies  and  sights  of  the  week.  The 
exhibition  of  fireworks  took  place  the  next  evening,  with  fine 
effect,  at  the  Porto  del  Popolo,  one  of  the  gates  of  the  city. 
The  former  Girandolo  from  the  Castle  of  San  Angelo,  represent- 
ing the  eruption  of  Mount  Vesuvius,  when  the  waters  of  the 
Tiber   seemed  in  flames,  was  a  magnificent  spectacle. 

I  have  never  seen  so  many  strangers  in  Eome  as  during  the 
past  Holy  Week.  My  last  visit  was  during  the  European 
revolution  of  1848,  which  prevented  general  travel;  we  have 
visitors  now,  however,  from  all  countries,  though  fewer  Eussians 
than  usual.  The  Coliseum  has  become  a  great  resort  by  moon- 
light ;  groups  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  may  be  seen  climbing  its 
old  and  antiquated  walls,  or  wending  their  way  through  its 
melancholy  corridors  by  torchlight,  which  has  a  happy  effect, 
bringing  out  their  beauties  more  boldly,  and  hiding  the 
deformities  and  decay  visible  by  daylight.  While  standing  upon 
the  heights  of  this  vast  ruin,  whose  broken  walls  have  contributed 
to  the  erection  of  many  of  the  palaces  of  Eome,  and  reflecting 
that  sufficient  material  remains  for  the  construction  of  a  small 
town,  one  cannot  but  be  struck  with  the  grandeur  and  power 
of  the  former  in  comparison  with  the  present  flillen  race. 
While  figuring  to  myself  the  grand  and  imposing  spectacle  of 
the  mammoth  amphitheatre,  under  the  patronage  of  the  Eoman 
emperors,  filled  with  the  elite  of  the  city,  during  the  gladiatorial 


THE   COLISEUM.  373 

contests,  and  the  combats  of  the  wild  beasts,  rushing  out  from 
their  dens  in  the  vast  arena,  I  could  find  no  better  comparison  in 
miniature  for  the  enthusiasm  of  the  multitude  in  the  well  filled 
galleries,  than  that  which  is  shown  at  the  barbarous  bull  fights 
of  Spain  and  Peru ;  the  ancients,  however,  carried  off  the  palm 
for  brutality  by  throwing  the  innocent  Christians  among  the 
wild  beasts.  The  stranger  in  Rome,  however  fastidious,  ma}^ 
have  his  taste  gratified,  and  his  time  constantly  occupied  here, 
after  repeated  visits ;  his  labors  for  the  first  trip  may  be  pleasant 
to  the  mind  and  refreshing  to  the  eye,  but  they  are  arduous. 

The  long  picture  galleries  and  avenues  of  statuary  of  the 
palaces,  the  suburban  drives  to  the  various  villas,  as  well  as  the 
villages  Frascati,  Albano,  and  the  falls  of  Tivoli,  with  the 
picturesque  costume  of  the  peasants,  all  afford  variety. 

The  antiquarian  strolls  among  the  triumphal  arches  of  the 
Roman  emperors,  the  broken  columns  of  the  Forum,  or 
wanders  among  the  ruins  of  the  palaces  of  ISTero  and  Csesar, 
and  the  baths  of  Caracalla,  When  the  eye  tires  with  the  sight 
of  marbles,  bronzes,  or  the  interior  decorpations  of  churches, 
which  are  perfect  museums  of  fine  arts,  by  the  old  masters,  one 
can  mount  the  dome  of  Peter's,  or  the  Campidolio  tower,  and 
grasp-  the  seven  hills  of  ancient  and  modern  Rome,  with  all 
their  beauties  and  all  their  deformities,  not  forgetting  one  pretty 
spot  which  it  is  profitable  to  visit,  and  where,  under  the  shady 
willows  and  rosebuds  of  the  Strangers'  Cemetery,  he  can  read 
the  epitaphs  of  his  friends  or  countrymen  whose  career  is 
ended. 


XCVI. 

Naples,  Italy,  May  12,  1854. 
I  CAME  to  this  city  over  a  route  which  I  once  had 
occasion  to  describe  to  you,  passing  through  Albano,  the 
pleasant  summer  resort  of  the  Romans,  and  crossing  the  once 
much  dreaded  pestilential  Pontine  marshes  which  have  been 
improved  by  drainage.  I  spent  a  night  at  Terracina,  the  frontier 
coast  town  of  the  Pope's  dominions,  passed  Gaeta  the  following 
day,  where  his  Holiness  was  exiled  under  the  protection  of  the 
King  of  Naples,  during  his  political  troubles,  and  found  myself 


874  AT  NAPLES  AGAIN. 

here  within  forty-eight  hours,  from  Eome,  after  three  searchings 
of  my  luggage  and  five  examinations  of  my  passports. 

You  will  naturally  ask,  "  How  have  you  passed  your  time  on 
a  third  visit  to  Naples  ?"  The  question  is  easily  answered.  The 
half  a  million  of  population  of  this  city  and  its  suburbs  is  a 
study  in  itself.  The  race  of  lazzaroni  deserve  special  attention ; 
the  beautiful  garden,  Villa  Reale,  with  its  fountains  and  statuary, 
on  the  borders  of  the  bay,  now  abounding  in  foliage  and 
flowers,  is  an  agreeable  retreat  for  those  who  occupy  the  large 
and  commodious  hotels  which  overloook  these  grounds.  Or 
there  is  a  ride  along  the  coast  to  the  ruins  of  Baiae,  the  Grotto 
Pozzoli,  or  a  quiet  stroll  through  the  grounds  of  Prince  Roca 
Romano,  an  old  gentleman  of  much  taste  who  devotes  his  entire 
time  to  the  embellishment  of  his  villa,  and  is  very  civil  to 
strangers.  Aside  from  its  beautiful  position  on  the  bay,  its 
arbors,  flowers,  and  tropical  fruits,  it  has  a  collection  of  rare 
birds  and  animals,  also  a  miniature  museum,  where  I  found 
preserved  the  Eyeless  Fish  from  the  Mammoth  Cave  of  Ken- 
tucky, the  gift  of  an  American.  The  grottoes  excavated  on  the 
margin  of  the  sea  are  adorned  with  statuary  and  lighted  on 
festival  occasions  ;  they  contain  a  goodly  number  of  flying  fish 
of  a  bluish  color,  which  are  regularly  fed,  and  of  larger  size 
than  those  found  for  sale  in  the  markets  of  Curagoa.  A  steam- 
boat excursion  to  the  island  of  Capri,  to  visit  the  Blue  Grotto, 
occupies  a  day.  The  steamer  lies  off  and  on  the  rock;  the 
passengers  in  small  boats  enter  through  the  narrow  opening  at  a 
favorable  state  of  the  tide.  Sitting  in  the  boat  the  hat  touches 
the  rock,  so  small  is  the  entrance.  One  is  struck  with  the 
beautiful  mercurial-like  color  of  the  vaulted  natural  roof,  and 
the  great  depth  of  the  azure  and  limpid  water.  The  boatmen 
for  a  fee  throw  themselves  in,  and  to  all  appearance  come  out 
dripping  with  shining  quicksilver. 

Mount  Vesuvius  is  now  quiet.  Having  on  a  former  visit 
ascended  the  summit  and  descended  one  thousand  feet  to  the 
verge  of  the  boiling  crater,  and  with  difficulty  (from  a  change 
of  wind)  regained  the  point  of  descent,  suffering  from  the  inha- 
lation of  the  sulphurous  vapor,  with  boots  burnt  off,  I  had  no 
desire  to  renew  my  acquaintance  with  it.  I  joined  a  party 
of  ladies  to  visit  the  Hermitage  about  midway  to  the  top  of  the 
volcanic  mountain,  where  an  excellent  view  of  Naples  and  the 


POMPEII.  375 

valley  is  obtained,  and  a  good  idea  is  formed  of  the  rolling 
action  of  the  lava  in  its  destructive  descent  upon  the  plain,  and 
also  of  the  fertility  of  the  gardens  which  are  formed  from 
decomposed  lava  and  cinders,  and  which  produce  the  Lacrima 
Christi  wine,  which  here  enters  in  as  part  of  a  cold  collation. 
A  melancholy  accident  has  just  occurred.  A  young  German 
gentleman,  who  breakfasted  at  our  hotel  in  full  health  the  morn- 
ing of  his  ascent  to  Vesuvius,  was  brought  down  a  corpse. 
While  on  the  summit  a  small  portion  of  the  earth  gave  way  and 
he  was  precipitated  down  the  chasm ;  his  cries  were  heard  by  his 
companions  for  an  hour,  but  before  cords  could  be  obtained  from 
below  he  had  ceased  to  breathe.  A  few  days  may  be  spent 
profitably  and  delightfully  in  visiting  the  ancient  cities  of 
Paestum  and  Salerno,  and  the  villages  of  Amalfi,  Minori,  and 
Majori,  all  lying  on  the  sea-coast.  Things  have  changed  since  I 
first  trod  the  silent  streets  of  Pompeii ;  then  it  really  appeared 
like  the  city  of  the  dead.  Many  excavations  have  since  been 
made,  the  results  of  which  are  mostly  to  be  found  in  the  Great 
Museum  of  Naples ;  now  the  railroad  passes  by,  and  the  station  of 
Pompeii  is  an  important  one.  If  those  who  still  sleep  under  the 
cinders  and  lava  of  these  entombed  cities  could  awake  to  the 
shrill  whistle  and  hoarse  cough  of  the  locomotive,  they  would 
be  as  much  startled  by  them  as  they  were  by  the  fiery  flames  and 
ashes  of  Vesuvius.  Invalided  sentinels  are  quartered  to  protect 
the  relics  of  antiquity  from  the  ruthless  hand  of  travellers. 
Many  gates  are  to  be  opened,  and  of  course  the  purse  strings 
must  be  frequently  unloosened.  The  ride  along  the  railway  to 
Castelmare  passes  through  a  number  of  sailing  ports.  The  rock 
excavation  gives  a  good  idea  of  the  quality  and  variety  of  lava 
as  it  rolls  down  to  the  bay. 

The  drive  from  Castelmare  to  Sorrento  is  most  picturesque. 
The  views  of  the  Bay  of  Naples,  and  the  islands  of  Capri,  Ischia, 
and  Procida,  from  bold  rocky  cliffs  surrounded  by  orange  groves, 
which  abound  here,  have  been  much  extolled,  and  I  was  almost 
inclined  to  become  as  enthusiastic  as  others,  as  I  listened  to  the 
harp  players,  and  watched  the  graceful  forms  of  the  peasants  in 
the  national  tarantula  dance. 

The  anniversary  or  festival  of  the  patron  saint  of  Massa, 
a  small  village  across  the  mountain,  took  place  while  I  was  here, 
so,    mounting   a   donkey,    I  found  myself,   jDreceded  by  about 


376  CASERTA. 

a  dozen  priests  in  black  robes  and  three-cornered  hats,  mounted 
]\ke  myself,  with  boys  beating  the  sides  of  the  stupid  animals. 
Our  train  was  considerably  augmented  by  peasant  boys  and 
girls  in  holiday  costume  trudging  along,  and  we  finally  found 
ourselves  in  the  square  of  the  parochial  church,  which  presented 
the  appearance  of  a  fair. 

The  temporary  booths  were  supplied  with  all  the  eatables  and 
drinkables  requisite.  The  countrymen  occupied  their  time  in 
the  examination  of  goats,  sheep,  and  pigs,  and  in  making  sundry 
purchases,  while  the  villagers  and  country  lasses,  with  tidy 
white  veils,  were  listening  to  a  full  military  band  playing  church 
music  during  high  mass.  The  priests  of  the  surrounding 
villages  were  in  full  regalia,  and  the  interior  of  the  building 
was  hung  in  red  drapery  fringed  with  gold  leaf  borders.  Small 
cannon  were  mounted  for  a  grand  volley,  which  was  given, 
after  which  these  simple  people  returned  home  as  much  en- 
chanted as  if  they  had  witnessed  the  pompous  ceremonies  of 
Rome,  and  heard  the  thundering  cannon  of  San  Angelo.  My 
boy  had  loaded  the  donkey's  head  with  rosaries  of  stringed 
filberts  and  chestnuts,  which  fruit  were  much  sought  after  by 
those  who  had  not  attended  the  festival. 

The  royal  residence  of  the  king  at  Caserta  is  well  worth  a 
visit,  and  easily  reached  by  railroad.  It  is  fourteen  miles  from 
Naples ;  the  king  spends  most  of  his  time  here.  The  palace  is 
one  of  the  most  extensive  in  Europe ;  the  interior,  aside  from  a 
few  of  the  saloons  and  the  staircase,  is  not  remarkable.  The 
grounds,  gardens,  and  parks  are  eleven  miles  in  circumference ; 
they  are  well  supplied  with  water,  which  is  brought  twenty-seven 
miles  by  aqueduct,  forming  some  beautiful  cascades.  The  soil  is 
rich  and  fertile,  and  the  Botanical  and  Horticultural  Gardens 
very  fine.  In  many  respects  I  was  strongly  reminded  of  the 
royal  grounds  of  the  Court  of  Spain  at  Lagranja,  but  the 
fountains  here,  and  statues  in  marble  and  bronze,  will  not 
compare  with  similar  works  there. 

The  military  force  of  the  kingdom  of  Naples  is  one  hundred 
'thousand  men.  There  are  three  regiments  of  cavalry  and 
infantry  stationed  at  Caserta,  and  soldiery  and  sentinels  may  be 
found  at  all  points  where  one  goes.  The  police  are  very  rigid. 
For  instance  I  retired  to  bed  early  the  night  of  my  arrival ;  at 
eleven  p.m.     I  was  roused  by  a  rap  at  the  door ;  I  asked  what 


WAKED   FOR  A  PASSPORT.  877 

was  wanted ;  a  peremptory  order  was  given  to  open ;  I  struck 
a  ligbt,  and  in  marched  two  officers  in  uniform,  who  inquired  if 
I  had  a  passport.  I  replied  in  the  negative,  ni}^  passport  being  in 
the  hands  of  the  authorities  at  Naples.  "Have  you  a  Carta  di 
SegiornoV  or  permit;  fortunately  I  had  provided  myself  with 
one,  or  I  should  have  been  marched  off  to  the  Carcel.  I  was 
then  questioned  as  to  the  object  of  my  visit,  and  how  long  I 
intended  to  stay,  all  of  which  was  exceedingly  vexatious. 

The  flower  and  fruit  season  is  flxirly  opened,  and  the  sun 
begins  to  make  one  look  for  a  shady  spot.  The  glare  of  light 
is  fatiguing  to  the  eyes,  and  as  I  am  a  sufferer  I  shall  make  my 
way  north  to  Genoa  and  Turin, 

I  shall  take  the  steamer,  notwithstanding  the  recent  frightful 
accident  and  loss  of  the  Ercolano  from  this  place,  caused  by 
collision  with  the  Siciliano,  whereby  forty-nine  passengers  and 
crew,  in  a  few  minutes,  at  midnight,  were  sent  into  eternity.  It 
is  attributed  to  gross  carelessness,  for  it  was  proved  that  not  an 
officer  was  on  the  deck  of  the  Siciliano  when  she  struck  the 
unfortunate  steamer.  The  culprits  are  in  prison  awaiting  their 
trial.  Many  persons  are  now  going  north  by  land,  but  without 
doubt  the  caution  now  exercised  will  for  some  time  at  least 
make  steam  travel  safer. 


XCVIL 

Turin,  Kingdom  of  Sardinia,  June  5,  1854. 

Our  steamer  was  a  French  one,  and  the  commander  having 
reputation  for  skill  and  caution,  the  little  boat  of  two  hundred 
and  twenty  horse  power  was  inundated  with  passengers  from 
Civita  and  Leghorn. 

It  was  ridiculous  but  amusing  to  notice  the  rigor  of  the 
Neapolitan  police.  At  the  quay,  before  embarking,  one  has  to 
have  his  baggage  examined,  or  to  slyly  slip  a  piece  of  coin  into 
the  hands  of  the  sentinel ;  then  he  passes  to  the  office  and  gets  a 
permit  to  embark,  notwithstanding  that  his  passport  has  already 
been  vise  by  his  own  minister,  the  Neapolitan  Minister  of  Foreign 
Affairs,  the  Inspector  of  the  Marine,  and  a  permit  de  sejour  has 
been  granted  previously — all  of  which  costs  several  dollars,  for 
the  benefit  of  the  Neapolitan  officials. 


378  LEGHORN  AND   GENOA. 

Once  on  board,  you  suppose  yourself  clear  of  the  annoyance  ; 
but  it  is  not  so.  Another  scene  of  counting  heads  and  calling 
names,  to  be  sure  tliat  none  are  on  board  without  being  regu- 
larly labelled. 

Our  boat  had  arrived  from  Sicily,  and  what  with  Sicilian 
and  Neapolitan  passengers,  every  berth  was  occupied. 

After  leaving  the  bay  of  Naples,  the  sea  was  sufficient  to 
quiet  many  passengers,  and  to  give  a  seat  at  table,  which  by 
right  could  be  retained.  The  following  day,  at  Civita  Vecchia, 
there  came  a  rush  of  passengers  from  Eome,  on  their  way  to 
Leghorn  and  Florence.  Fortunately  the  weather  was  fine, 
with  a  quiet  sea ;  had  it  been  otherwise,  with  hatches  down, 
those  below  would  have  suffi)catcd.  Tents  were  pitched  for  the 
ladies  on  deck,  and  mattresses  scattered  about  for  the  gentlemen. 
Such  a  democratic  party  of  one  hundred  and  thirty-seven  passen- 
gers I  had  not  met  lately.  It  comprised  a  French  consul  and 
his  family,  and  Greek  servants,  from  Turke}^,  Italian  counts  and 
countesses,  marquises,  Spanish  generals,  English  nobility, 
North  and  South  Americans,  Grerman  and  other  travellers,  with 
all  the  dialects  and  tongues  of  Babel. 

In  such  cases  most  parties  are  willing  to  conform  to  circum- 
stances, although  those  who  embarked  first  with  us  had  great 
reason  to  complain  of  the  abuse  of  the  directors.  The  first 
breakfast  was  at  nine,  and  dinner  at  four,  and  those  who  had  to 
wait  for  the  second  and  third  tables  were  to  be  pitied. 

At  Leghorn  we  remained  ten  hours,  and  received  as  many 
passengers  as  we  had  landed ;  so  our  condition  was  not 
much  improved. 

My  trip  was  j  ust  the  opposite  of  one  which  I  made  last  winter 
from  France  to  the  island  of  Sardinia,  on  board  of  a  steamer  of 
great  size,  when  I  occupied  the  entire  cabin,  the  commander 
being  my  only  table  companion. 

I  rejoiced  to  get  ashore,  in  the  thriving  city  of  Genoa,  with 
civil  custom-house  officers  and  few  police  nuisances,  breathing 
the  air  of  constitutional  liberty,  and  lodging  in  one  of  the 
former  palaces,  now  the  Hotel  Feder — the  inconveniences  of  the 
passage  made  me  appreciate  good  quarters.  I  found  myself 
casually  occupying  the  apartment  where  the  great  Irish  agitator, 
O'Connell,  breathed  his  last. 

Notwithstanding  several  visits  to  the  City  of  Palaces,  I  spent 


TURIN.  879 

a  few  days  profitably.  I  shall  not  again  describe  the  contents  of 
the  churches,  the  style  of  architecture,  the  marble  and  gilded 
decorations  of  the  costly  edifices,  of  the  famed  republic,  but 
simply  state  that  the  intricate  streets  and  numerous  lanes,  with 
their  tall  houses,  not  unlike  those  of  Venice,  have  charms  after 
leaving  the  broad  and  quadrangular  streets  of  many  of  the  cities 
of  Southern  Italy.  Horse  power  is  in  requisition  only  in  the 
broad  streets  and  thoroughfares;  but  it  is  curious  to  watch  the 
multitude  threading  their  way  through  the  winding  passages, 
with  little  shops  on  each  side — the  women  particularly,  with 
white  veils  suspended  from  their  heads,  and  falling  over  their 
shoulders. 

The  cafes  and  refreshment  rooms  are,  as  in  all  parts  of  Italy, 
supplied  with  the  melody  of  harpists  and  violin-players  of  both 
sexes,  who  make  the  circuit,  and  pick  up  the  crumbs  from  a 
musical  people. 

The  gardens  and  promenades  of  the  Aqua  Sole,  on  the  height 
commanding  the  harbor  and  valley,  are  frequented  by  all  the 
beauty  and  wealth  of  the  city  on  Sunday  and  other  festival 
days. 

On  my  last  visit  here  Charles  Albert,  the  liberal  king,  had 
undertaken  the  Italian  cause  against  Austria,  but  had  lost  his 
throne,  and  died  in  exile. 

Then  the  journey  from  Genoa  to  Turin  was  a  fatiguing  one 
of  twenty-four  hours ;  now  the  great  railroad  is  open,  and  the 
trip  is  made  in  five  hours.  The  distance  is  one  hundred  and 
ten  miles ;  the  work  was  done  by  the  government  at  an  immense 
expense.  The  tunnels  (one  of  which,  three  miles  in  length,  is  a 
stupendous  work)  are  all  of  arched  masonry.  Too  much 
money  was  expended  in  the  construction  of  this  road  to  permit 
any  interest  to  be  paid:  it  cost  over  two  hundred  thousand 
dollars  per  mile. 

Turin  of  late  years  has  made  greater  advances  in  improve- 
ments than  any  of  the  cities  of  Italy ;  it  may  be  attributed  to  its 
liberal  government  and  the  concentration  in  it  of  many  thousand 
exiles,  including  many  wealthy  families  from  Lombardy.  The 
full  liberty  of  the  press  is  enjoyed  here,  and  quite  as  much 
liberty  of  speech  as  is  consistent  with  constitutional  government. 

The  great  difiiculty  in  harmonizing  or  bringing  about  a  union 
of  the  Italian  states,  will  be  the  different  dialects.     Here  the 


380  RACE   AND   CIRCUS. 

Piedraontese  patois  is  spoken.  The  journals  are  in  Italian,  also 
tlie  shop  signs,  and  the  theatrical  performances ;  but  strange  to 
say,  the  conversation  of  almost  all  classes  is  in  the  patois,  and  it 
is  only  the  shopkeepers  and  the  educated  classes  who  speak 
Italian  or  French  to  strangers.  In  Genoa,  another  dialect  pre- 
vails. In  Milan,  Venice,  and  Naples,  they  have  their  patois, 
and  cannot  understand  each  other.  All  this  contributes  to  jea- 
lousy instead  of  unanimity,  and  enables  designing  rulers  to  keep 
the  people  in  ignorance.  The  general  introduction  of  railways 
and  common  schools  would  bring  about  a  change. 

The  Constitutional  Anniversary  has  just  passed  off  with  great 
satisfaction.  The  son  and  successor  of  Charles  Albert,  king 
Emanuel,  is  popular  with  the  masses.  He  assisted  in  person,  a 
few  days  since,  at  the  opening  of  the  new  railroad  to  Suza,  at  the 
foot  of  the  Alps. 

A  famous  Amazon  race  came  off  on  a  recent  festival  day. 
The  parade  ground  was  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  circum- 
ference; circles  and  stands  were  erected,  similar  to  those  in  a 
race-course,  to  accommodate  twenty  thousand  persons,  the  cen- 
tre being  occupied  by  the  ladies  of  the  royal  household.  Thirty 
thousand  persons  were  spectators.  The  ladies  rode  well  in  the 
steeple-chase,  their  horses  clearing  the  bars  and  mounds  with 
frightful  leaps ;  but  they  clung  to  their  steeds  beautifully. 

Just  before  sunset  there  was  a  circus  performance  on  a  grand 
scale.  Among  the  riders  was  a  Hercules  in  the  shape  of  a 
mulatto,  who  galloped  two  horses,  standing  erect,  one  foot  on  the 
back  of  each,  and  supporting  one  of  the  Amazons  on  his  shoul- 
ders. The  deer  hunt  was  a  failure.  The  deer  was  but  little 
alarmed,  and  took  it  very  kindly :  the  dogs  sympathized  with 
the  deer,  and  some  of  them  took  to  their  heels  in  another  direc- 
tion, much  to  the  amusement  of  the  crowd  and  the  annoyance  of 
the  manager,  who  made  an  explanation  and  gave  an  entertain- 
ment for  the  benefit  of  the  poor. 

Turin  is,  I  believe,  the  only  city  of  Italy  where  clubs  are  tole- 
rated. The  principal  one  is  composed  of  the  most  respectable 
persons  of  the  city,  and  occupies  a  commodious  palace,  with  all 
the  advantages  of  a  library,  reading-room,  rational  amusements, 
and  an  excellent  table.  Through  the  politeness  of  Marquis 
Palavecini,  who,  with  his  bride,  was  with  us  in  southern  Italy,  I 
found  myself  registered  upon  the  privileged  list  for  a  fortnight. 


PROSPECT  OF  GOOD  CROPS.  881 

Upon  the  tablet  of  sixteen  invited  guests,  composed  of  counts, 
marquises,  and  barons,  two  of  the  number  had  no  title;  one  of 
whom,  however,  was  of  the  sovereign  people  from  America ;  he 
dined  at  the  round  table  d'hote  of  eight  with  the  diplomatic  cir- 
cle of  Spain,  Prussia,  Belgium,  and  Naples.  The  liveried  ser- 
vants, and  the  presence  of  distinguished  personages,  did  not  seem 
in  the  least  to  suspend  his  appetite  or  prevent  his  enjoyment  of 
a  good  dinner. 

Turin,  with  its  population  of  nearly  two  hundred  thousand, 
its  broad  and  well-paved  streets,  its  long  line  of  porticoes  sur- 
rounding the  public  square  and  extending  along  the  principal 
thoroughfare,  protecting  from  sun  and  rain,  has  its  attractions. 
Its  position  upon  the  banks  of  the  Po,  with  long  avenues  of 
shade  trees  throughout  the  suburbs,  affords  fine  views.  The  col- 
lection of  antique  horse  armor  and  coats  of  mail  in  the  palace,  is 
the  finest  in  Europe  after  the  collection  of  Madrid. 

The  scarcity  of  grain  this  year  diminishes  the  size  of  the 
bakers'  loaves,  and  the  outcry  of  high  prices  is  general,  particu- 
larly among  the  poor,  whose  principal  sustenance  is  bread  and 
wune,  both  of  which  are  deficient. 

Turin  is  celebrated  for  its  pipestem  bread,  a  peculiarity  of  the 
city.  ^ 

It  is  laughable,  at  the  table  d'hote,  to  see  each  person  take  a 
handful  of  sticks  nearly  a  yard  long,  and  amuse  himself  in 
cracking  this  crisping  and  delicious  article. 

The  coming  crop  promises  to  be  abundant.  The  wheat 
appears  of  a  strong  and  hard  growth.  The  heads  of  rye  begin 
to  turn  already  a  golden  color ;  and  the  hay  harvest  has  com- 
menced. The  strawberry  and  cherry  season  is  passing,  as  I 
noticed  apricots  are  already  in  market. 


XCYIII. 


Paris,  June  30,  1854. 

I  FIND  myself  once  again  in  the  bustle  and  activity  of  this 
great  city,  after  my  return  from  Italy  and  Switzerland.  My 
last  communication  was  from  Turin.  The  railroad  to  Suza, 
recently  opened,  brought  me  to  the  foot  of  the  Alps,  where  the 
diligence,  with  its  ten  mule^,  was  in  readiness  to  ascend  Mount 


382  MOUNT  CENIS. 

Cenis,  whose  lofty  crest  was  buried  in  snow.  The  rich  and 
luxuriant  growth  of  the  valley  is  gradually  lost  as  the  dwarfish 
and  stunted  trees  appear;  the  cold  winds  from  the  frozen  surface 
and  the  absence  of  vegetation  prove  that  the  sunirait  is  nearly 
reached,  and  the  traveller  rejoices  in  the  descent  to  the  verdant 
and  smiling  valleys  of  Savoy.  The  macadamized,  winding, 
and  zigzag  roads  upon  the  borders  of  frightful  precipices  are, 
however,  well  provided  with  parapet  walls,  and  tall  poles  or 
landmarks  indicate  the  route  when  it  is  blocked  Avith  snow. 
The  Government  has  also  constructed,  at  intervals,  one-story 
cottages,  with  roofs  and  bare  w^alls,  as  a  temporary  refuge  for 
benighted  travellers.  The  passage  at  this  season  of  the  year  is 
comparatively  easy,  and  unlike  what  I  had  to  contend  with  in 
crossing  the  St.  -Bernard,  some  years  since,  during  the  same 
month,  upon  mule-back,  wading  through  snowbanks  in  the 
mountain  gorges  twenty  feet  in  depth.  The  scenery  is  less 
grand  and  majestic  than  that  of  the  Simplon,  or  great  road  of 
Napoleon,  which  I  once  passed  in  the  month  of  October,  upon 
jumpers  made  of  hoop  poles,  and  drawn  by  a  single  horse,  for 
one  person  alone,  under  constant  dread  of  avalanches  and 
mountain  torrents. 

A  seventy-four  hours'  ride  brought  me  to  Chamberry,  and 
thence  three  leagues  further  to  Aix,  celebrated  for  its  baths  from 
the  time  of  the  Eomans,  some  of  whose  monuments  are  still 
found.  It  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  valley,  between  a  double 
chain  of  mountains,  with  most  picturesque  eminences,  bordered 
by  the  Lake  Bourget,  some  twelve  miles  in  length.  This  pleasant 
little  town,  with  a  Savoyard  population  of  three  thousand,  derives 
its  principal  support  from  the  influx  of  strangers  during  the 
bathing  season.  Almost  all  its  inhabitants — loungers,  doctors, 
&c. — draw  a  portion  of  their  revenue  from  the  rent  of  their 
dwellings. 

From  its  position  between  France,  Italy,  and  Switzerland,  it 
is  a  convenient  and  agreeable  place  for  invalids.  The  waters 
are  of  iron  and  sulphur,  and  the  supply  is  more  abundant 
than  any  I  had  ever  seen,  and  of  a  high  temperature.  The 
quantity  discharged  from  the  rock  into  the  Eoyal  Bathing 
Establishment,  which  is  situated  against  the  sidehill,  is  sufficient 
to  turn  an  ordinary  mill-wheel.  The  building,  a  handsome 
structure,  is  composed  of  four  divisions,  comprising  thirty-six 


BATHS.  383 

pieces.  Here  are  found  swimming  and  simple,  as  also  vapor 
baths ;  shower,  vertical,  and  oblique  douches ;  with  the  volume 
and  force  of  the  shock  required,  or  all  the  shades  and  varieties 
possible.  There  are  also  two  dark  underground  rooms,  whose 
high  temperature  of  sulphur  has  given  them  the  name  of 
Division  d'Enfer,  or  Hell  Division  ;  there  is  one  for  females  as 
well  as  males.  Two  streams  of  hot  sulphur  water  break  upon 
the  place,  while  clouds  of  steam  make  the  atmosphere  suffocating. 
While  the  invalid  is  in  this  he  receives  the  shower-bath,  which 
must  produce  an  active  eifect.  All  the  employees  of  the  establish- 
ment are  in  uniform,  and,  when  there  are  many  visitors,  they 
have  full  employment.  The  alum-water  is  most  used  for  drink- 
ing, it  being  less  heavy  for  the  stomach  than  the  sulphur-water, 
and  its  odor  less  disagreeable. 

The  Douchers employed  in  the  baths  are  said  to  be  very  clever 
in  their  mode  of  friction,  rubbing  the  limbs,  and  cracking  the 
joints  of  rheumatic  patients.  I  had  no  occasion  for  them,  how- 
ever. I  have  not  yet  forgotten  the  shampooing  or  vapor-bath 
at  Constantinople,  where  one  is  almost  scalded,  and  every  bone 
of  the  bod3^  seems  to  be  broken ;  then  you  are  laid  out  in  a 
winding  sheet  to  be  revived  with  coffee  and  sherbet,  and  finish 
off  with  a  chibouck,  or  Turkish  pipe.  These  waters  and  shady 
grounds  being  suggested  as  a  relief  for  an  eye-difficulty,  I  was 
induced  to  make  a  sojourn  of  some  ten  days  at  this  pleasant 
spot.  There  are  not  the  same  attentions  here  as  at  Baden  Baden 
and  Wiesbaden.  The  Casino,  however,  is  a  handsome  edifice, 
with  spacious  grounds  and  gardens,  to  which  visitors  subscribe, 
and  have  the  privilege  of  a  reading-room,  a  cafe,  and  restaurant ; 
a  military  band  plays  morning  and  evening,  and  in  the  dancing 
and  concert  halls.  The  most  corrupt  places  are  the  public 
gambling-rooms,  where  are  seen  groups  of  both  sexes  around  the 
roulette  tables,  and  the  bankers  with  their  little  rakes  in  hand 
drawing  in  or  paying  out ;  the  glittering  gold  dazzles  the  eye 
of  the  novices,  and  frequently  induces  them  to  stake  their  last 
Napoleon.  The  government  has  farmed  out  this  establishment, 
with  the  promise  that  no  officer  of  the  crown,  or  citizen  of  the 
place  shall  be  allowed  to  gamble — a  very  excellent  provision ; 
but  the  influx  of  strangers  keeps  up  the  traffic,  and  affords 
occupation  for  those  who  have  a  taste  for  play.  I  arrived  in 
season   for  the   festival   of   the   baths.     The    programme   was 


384  GENEVA. 

attractive,  and  calculated  to  draw  a  large  assemblage  from  the 
neighboring  villages.  The  firing  of  cannon,  ringing  of  bells, 
and  church  service,  the  eating  and  drinking  at  the  baths,  made 
it  a  sort  of  Fourth  of  Jul}'-  affair ;  it  was  succeeded  by  donkey 
races,  closing  with  an  illumination  under  the  tall  elm  and 
sycamore  trees,  with  bands  of  music,  and  the  national  dances  of 
the  peasant  girls  and  boys  in  their  gay  and  picturesque  costume. 
A  display  of  fireworks  added  to  the  enjoyment  of  this  simple 
and  happy  people,  who  seemed  to  disperse  with  reluctance. 
Eides  upon  the  mountain,  fishing,  and  excursions  upon  the 
lake,  make  up  the  pleasurable  employments  of  visitors.  A  lady 
and  gentleman,  who  came  in  company  from  Turin,  joined  me  in 
an  excursion  down  the  lake,  to  visit  a  convent  containing  the 
royal  tombs  of  the  house  of  Savoy,  which,  with  the  chapel,  are 
exquisitely  wrought.  The  intermittent  spring  was  also  visited  ; 
at  intervals  of  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  a  rumbling  noise  is  heard, 
and  the  rush  of  water  (the  volume  being  the  size  of  a  man's 
body)  soon  fills  a  natural  basin,  when  it  gradually  ceases,  to  be 
renewed  after  taking  breath,  as  it  were,  from  exhaustion.  We 
had  embarked  upon  this  placid  lake,  when  a  heavy  squall  came 
up  ;  the  Lilliputian  sea  became  agitated,  and  the  little  sail  of  the 
frail  bark  fluttered  in  the  wind ;  the  lady  went  into  hysterics ! 
The  idea  of  being  shipwrecked  in  that  manner  was  ridiculous  to 
me.  We  made  for  the  mountain  shore,  and,  ensconced  under  the 
rocks,  escaped  the  driving  rain,  until  it  beat  the  little  billows 
into  subjection.  The  fright  was  sufficient  to  draw  forth  a 
promise  from  the  husband  and  wife  not  to  go  sailing  again  this 
summer. 

From  Savoy  I  went  into  Switzerland ;  it  was  my  third  visit. 
I  found  at  Geneva  many  changes  since  I  was  last  there  :  a  por- 
tion of  the  old  rampart  had  been  thrown  down,  and  streets 
opened  and  built  upon.  Beautiful  as  it  then  was,  reposing 
gently  upon  the  margin  of  the  lake  whose  name  it  bears,  it  is 
rendered  more  beautiful  by  the  march  of  improvement ;  new 
hotels  are  being  added  to  those  already  existing.  The  opening 
of  railways  in  France  has  brought  Geneva  within  twenty-eight 
hours  of  Paris,  which  time  will  be  shortened  when  other  projects 
are  carried  out.  In  visiting  the  principal  of  an  institution  at 
Geneva,  I  found  eight  American  boys  from  different  parts  of  the 
Union.     The  little  fellows  seemed  quite  delighted  to  meet  with 


PROSPECTS   OF   THE   VINE.  385 

one  who  was  from  their  native  land,  and  familiar  with  most  of 
the  localities  thej  came  from,  and,  more  than  all,  acquainted 
with  some  of  their  parents.  They  seemed  happy  and  contented, 
and  under  good  discipline. 

The  country  never  looked  better ;  the  prospects  of  the  farmer 
are  encouraging ;  the  disease  of  the  vine,  which  has  made  such 
havoc  and  caused  such  loss  in  southern  Europe  with  those  whose 
only  resource  is  the  production  of  wine,  has  not  yet  appeared, 
and  strong  hopes  are  entertained  that  the  vine  will  escape  it. 
In  sections  of  country  where  for  scores  of  miles  the  cultivation 
of  the  grape  is  as  general  as  Indian  corn  or  wheat  in  our  coun- 
try, the  failure  and  consequent  distress  may  very  well  be  con- 
ceived. 

I  formerly  described  the  chateau  of  Yoltaire,  and  the  few 
relics  remaining  of  that  philosopher.  It  is  situated  at  Ferney,  a 
few  miles  from  Greneva,  and  is  frequently  visited  by  strangers. 
The  present  proprietor  has  beautified  the  grounds  and  remodelled 
the  edifice.  He  w^as  my  travelling  companion  by  the  mail  coach 
to  Dijon,  and  amused  and  interested  me  much  with  many  anec- 
dotes of  this  singular  man,  as  well  as  the  remarks  of  visitors, 
strongly  prejudiced  for  or  against  that  peculiar  philosopher. 

I  am  not  yet  decided  what  course  I  shall  take  from  Paris,  but 
you  will  hear  from  me  in  due  time. 


XCIX. 

Aix-la-Chapelle,  July  25,  1854. 

The  facilities  for  travel  have  so  greatly  increased  since  I  first 
visited  Europe  in  1841,  that  I  can  scarcely  realize  that  I  am  now 
writing  from  Aix,  in  Prussia,  and  that  a  portion  of  my  last 
letter  from  Paris  was  descriptive  of  the  baths  of  Aix  en  Savoie, 
in  the  north  of  Italy,  where  I  was  some  six  weeks  since,  thence 
passing  through  Switzerland  to  the  French  capital,  making  a 
considerable  sojourn,  with  excursions  to  Versailles,  Enghien, 
Fontainebleau,  &c. ;  proceeding  to  Belgium,  visiting  Brussels, 
Liege,  and  the  waters  of  the  Spa.  These  points  were  all  familiar 
to  me,  consequently  only  agreeable  as  souvenirs  of  the  past.  I 
found  Brussels  the  same  miniature  Paris,  but  augmented  in  size, 
and  containing  some  two  hundred  and  forty  thousand  of  popula- 

25 


886  LIEGE. 

tion,  partaking  less  of  the  Flemish  character  than  formerly  ; 
the  houses,  shops,  and  streets  very  cleanly,  with  a  great  amount 
of  industry.  Dogs  are  there  turned  to  account,  and  seen  draw- 
ing carts  as  in  Germany.  The  window  shutters  of  the  first 
floors  of  many  of  the  houses  are  supplied  with  small  projecting 
mirrors,  for  the  convenience  of  the  ladies,  as  in  Holland,  ena- 
bling them  to  see  the  foot  passengers  up  and  down  the  sidewalks, 
without  showing  themselves  obtrusively.  '  The  Park  opposite 
the  royal  residence,  and  near  the  former  palace  of  the  Prince  of 
Orange,  is  a  miniature  Tuileries,  and  affords  an  agreeable 
promenade.  The  manufacturing  town  of  Liege,  upon  the  banks 
of  the  Meuse,  in  a  fertile  valley  with  most  romantic  scenery,  is 
well  worth  a  visit.  It  is  noted  for  its  manufacture  of  cloth  and 
firearms.  Owing  to  a  free  use  of  coal,  the  old  city  is  black  and 
dirty,  not  unlike  the  manufacturing  districts  of  England.  The 
most  delightful  valley  is  that  of  Spa,  celebrated  for  its  ferru- 
ginous waters,  which  are  highly  charged  with  iron.  The  country 
is  fertile ;  the  roads  and  public  walks  are  bordered  by  tall  and 
expansive  shade  trees.  The  winding  alleys,  little  pavilions  and 
look-outs  from  the  heights,  give  great  variety,  and  induce  one  to 
sojourn  here,  as  the  lodging  houses  and  hotels  are  good  and 
clean.  The  cuisine  for  reading,  music,  and  play  are  attractive, 
and  encourage  many  English  to  visit  this  picturesque  spot,  as 
the  route  is  so  practicable  by  way  of  sea  to  Ostend,  and  a  rail- 
road being  within  six  miles,  families  are  enabled  to  get  here 
with  little  difficulty.  The  place  is  famous  for  painted  fancy 
articles  of  every  description,  which  are  its  only  commerce ;  con- 
sequently it  is  a  neat,  genteel,  and  quiet  watering  place. 

I  had  called  upon  our  Minister  at  Brussels,  and  upon  the 
Prussian  Ambassador,  and  found  them  both  absent,  but  had  the 
pleasure  of  a  rencontre  with  them  at  Spa,  The  only  privileged 
bank  or  roulette  in  Belgium,  is  at  the  sjorings ;  the  owners  are 
very  liberal,  and  contribute  largely  to  the  entertainment  of 
guests,  ■  A  handsome  ball  and  illumination  was  given  while  I 
was  there. 

Aix  has  forty-eight  thousand  inhabitants,  and  numerous  hot 
mineral  springs  in  and  about  the  city.  Its  name,  Aquae  Grani, 
and  its  origin  and  prosperity,  date  back  to  the  Roman  era,  when 
the  Proconsul  Granis  and  his  legions  stopped  here  in  their  pas- 
sage from  the  Gauls  to  Germany,     Its  healing  springs  decided 


GAMBLING.  387 

Charlemagne  to  make  it  bis  favorite  sojourn  witli  his  numerous 
court.     It  was  the  place  for  crowning  the  German  emperors, 
from  Louis  le  Debonnaire,  in   873,  to  Ferdinand  I.,   in  1531. 
There  are  eight  huge  sulphur  baths,  to  which  are  attached  good 
and  commodious   quarters,   giving   invalids  the  advantage  of 
bathing  without  exposure.     At  this  season  of  the  year  the  baths 
and  hotels  are  full ;  the  arrivals  thus  far  reaching  several  thou- 
sands ;    the  names  of  strangers  arriving  from  all  sources  are 
published  daily  in  a  small  sheet,  with  their  places  of  residence. 
The  city  lies  in  a  valley,  and  is  defended  by  the  now  verdant 
hills,  which  protect  it  from  high  winds  ;  it  may  be  considered  a 
desirable  place  for  health  during  the  inclement  season.      The 
principal  places  of  resort  for  strangers  and  citizens,  within  the 
city,  are  the  Kurhaus,  containing  library  and  reading  rooms,  the 
concert  halls,  and  a  ball-room  with  a  garden,  enlivened  with  an 
orchestra  in  the  evening.     There  may  be  found  here  a  large 
reunion  of  ladies  and  gentlemen,  wherein  most  of  the  languages 
of  Europe  are  heard.     The  fountain  Elise,  and  the  garden  adjoin- 
ing, are  most  frequented  in  the  morning  by  those  who  imbibe ; 
glass  in  hand  you  see  them  strolling  under  the  pavilion,  recon- 
ciling themselves  to  a  disagreeable  draught,  with  an  air  from  the 
military  band.     The  municipality  has  here  the  benefit  derived 
from  the  gaming  tables,  which  has  enabled  them  to  erect  a  fine 
new  hospital.     It  is  curious  and  instructive  to  notice  the  passion 
for  play — the  anxiety  manifested  upon  the  countenances  of  those 
not  accustomed  to  this  unfortunate  vice.     It  is  not  confined  to 
the  male  sex,  but  numbers  of  beautiful  and  fashionably-dressed 
ladies  are  seen  surrounding  the  tables,   staking  or  drawing  in 
with  tiny  rakes  the  glittering  pieces  of  gold.     From  a  height 
called  Louisberg,  is  presented  a  beautiful  panorama  of  the  city 
and  suburbs.     The  avenues  for  a  drive  and  walks  through  the 
woods  are  really  charming ;  an  excellent  restaurant,  erected  by 
the  city  authorities,  with  occasional  fetes  and  bands  of  music, 
are  among  the  attractions.    As  I  was  strolling  alone  through  the 
forest,  towards  evening,  I  reached  a  culminating  point  on  an 
eminence,  where  1  had  one  of  the  most  magnificent  landscapes 
lying  before  me,  and  my  mind  was  involuntarily  carried  towards 
home.    I  heard  the  shrill  whistle  and  the  tread  of  the  iron  horse 
in  the  distant  valley  beyond  me.     I  could  almost  foncy  myself 
gazing  from  a  certain  knoll,  upon  which  I  have  often  stood,  a 


888  THE  REMAINS  OF  CHARLEMAGNE. 

little  south  of  Poughkeepsie,  with  the  distant  hum  from  the 
railroad  trains.  Although  uatui;e  had  done  much,  art  had  not 
yet  accomplished  what  was  required.  I  looked  in  vain,  however, 
for  the  majestic  Hudson,  whitened  with  sails,  and  the  towering 
summits  of  the  Highlands,  and  awakening  from  my  reverie,  I 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  there  are  but  few  spots  which  nature 
and  the  work  of  man,  combined,  have  rendered  more  attractive 
and  agreeable  than  the  Spring  side  of  our  beautiful  city. 

The  remains  of  Charlemagne,  the  most  powerfal  of  Emperors, 
lie  in  the  old  cathedral  founded  by  him.  It  has  now  withstood 
the  ravages  of  more  than  a  thousand  years,  having  been  conse- 
crated by  Pope  Leo  in  the  year  804.  It  contains  many  relics 
preserved  in  gold  and  silver  cases  set  with  precious  stones. 
The  most  valuable  of  these  relics  were  presented  by  Queen  Isa- 
bella of  Spain,  in  the  sixteenth  century,  and  are  only  opened 
once  in  seven  years,  for  a  fortnight,  which  occasions  the  pilgrim- 
age of  thousands  of  believers  at  that  time.  They  are  taken  from 
their  envelopes  of  silk,  covered  with  cloths  of  gold  and  silver, 
and  beset  with  jewels.  They  consist  of  a  white  cotton  dress, 
supposed  to  have  been  worn  by  the  mother  of  our  Saviour ;  the 
linen  with  which  the  infant  Jesus  was  clad;  the  cloth  upon 
which  the  head  of  John  the  Baptist  was  placed ;  and  the  sack 
with  which  Christ  girded  his  loins. 

A  large  portion  of  the  population  is  employed  in  the  manu- 
facture of  cloths,  silks,  pins,  needles,  and  various  branches  of 
trade.  The  Americans  are  among  the  best  customers  for  cloths. 
"We  had  a  small  fair  here  the  other  day.  The  country  people 
stared  and  gazed  and  made  their  little  purchases ;  mountebanks, 
menageries,  trained  monkeys  and  dogs,  flying  horses,  and  albinoes 
were  plentiful ;  there  were  moving  wax  figures  of  Christ  and  his 
disciples  at  the  table ;  and  a  living  representation  of  his  condem- 
nation and  flagellation,  with  verbal  descriptions  in  German. 
Lager  beer,  cheese,  and  pipes  were  in  general  demand. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  these  people  know  nothing  of 
California.  I  saw  once  a  panorama  of  the  trip  to  the  land  of 
gold,  via  the  Isthmus  of  Panama.  My  curiosity  led  me,  a  few 
evenings  since,  to  look  in  upon  a  much  vaunted  panorama  now 
exhibiting  here,  painted  by  two  artists  who  bad  crossed  the 
plains.  The  gold  diggings,  the  view  of  Sacramento  city,  the 
descent  of  the  river  to  Benicia  and  San  Francisco,  were  tolerably 


GRAEFKATH.  389 

executed.  A  frightful  shipwreck  upon  the  Mexican  coast  made 
the  audience  shudder  ;  the  South  American  pirates  seizing  and 
burning  a  vessel,  made  them  promise  without  doubt,  to  stay 
quietly  at  home.  The  beautiful  tropical  vegetation  of  Nicaragua 
was  enchanting,  but  the  serpents  were  frightful.  Finally,  after 
a  long  voyage,  via  Havana,  we  were  brought  safely  to  the  port 
of  New  York.  The  Battery  and  Castle  Garden,  with  a  multi- 
tude of  shipping,  were  before  us ;  the  spire  of  Trinity  church 
soared  up  high ;  large  and  beautiful  steamers  with  upper  deck 
saloons  were  represented — the  Reindeer  being  just  ready  for 
departure.  The  description  given  as  the  canvass  rolled  by,  was 
interesting,  although  exaggerated ;  but  when,  in  conclusion,  the 
above-named  steamer  exploded,  with  five  hundred  passengers  on 
board,  I  thought  it  was  carrying  the  joke  too  far.  I  told  the 
exhibitor,  at  the  close,  that  we  admitted  the  explosion  and  the 
loss  of  seven  lives,  but  as  the  tide  of  emigration  was  great  from 
Germany  to  America,  we  could  not  afford  such  wholesale 
slaughter. 


C. 

Baths  of  Ems,  Ddciiy  of  Nassau,  Aug.  20,  1854. 
In  the  little  village  of  Graefrath,  a  few  leagues  from  Dussel- 
dorf,  in  the  kingdom  of  Prussia,  lives  an  oculist,  who  is  cele- 
brated throughout  Holland  and  Germany,  and  whose  address 
was  given  me  at  Aix-la-Chapelle.  Requiring  his  services,  I 
went  in  pursuit  of  him,  and  found,  to  my  surprise,  from  two 
hundred  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  patients,  who  make  a  sort  of 
pilgrimage  there  from  all  quarters.  His  success  with  royalty  has 
given  him  several  badges  of  honor,  which  he  wears,  and  has 
made  the  village  a  place  of  sojourn  for  the  afflicted,  who  are  its 
chief  resource.  The  doctor  is  kind  and  liberal  in  his  treatment 
of  the  poor,  and  no  respecter  of  persons.  Each  takes  his  turn, 
and  I  considered  myself  fortunate  on  my  first  interview,  in  meet- 
ing with  the  rank  and  file ;  it  gave  a  fair  opportunity  of  wit- 
nessing the  sufferings  of  the  partially  blind,  young  and  old,  in 
the  different  conditions  of  life,  and  studying  the  hopes  and  fears 
of  this  pitiful  class  of  invalids,  and  of  thanking  Heaven  that  my 
difficulties  were  small  in  comparison  with  those  of  many  others 


390  ON"    THE    RHINE, 

present.     Obtiiining  the  necessary  remedies  for  treatment,  I  was 
advised  to  proceed  to  this  place,  and  make  use  of  the  waters. 

Dusseldorf,  which  I  had  just  left,  is  renowned  for  its  school  of 
modern  paintings,  and  has  three  galleries  now  open,  which  con- 
tain many  gems  of  art.  It  is  also  the  residence  of  some  three 
hundred  artists.  The  gallery  in  New  York,  which  bears  its 
name,  as  we  all  know,  contains  a  good  collection  of  pictures, 

I  shall  say  little  of  the  city  so  fixmous  for  its  Cologne  water, 
its  vast,  unfinished  cathedral,  its  church  with  the  bones  of  the 
eleven  thousand  virgias,  which  I  have  described  on  former  occa- 
sions, but  simply  say  I  took  there  the  steamer  to  ascend  the 
much-vaunted  Ehine,  so  full  of  interest,  with  its  thickly  settled 
villages,  the  rich  vegetation  of  its  banks,  whose  amphitheatred 
walls  are  covered  with  the  vine  which  has  given  such  celebrity 
to  the  Johannisberger,  Rudesheimer,  and  other  choice  wines,  its 
old  castles  upon  the  verge  of  the  mountain  crags,  with  its  many 
legends,  all  of  which  are  calculated  to  call  forth  the  enthusiasm  of 
the  tourist.  The  day  was  fine  ;  the  long  but  narrow  and  tolera- 
bly fleet  iron  steamers  made  rapid  exchanges  of  passengers  at 
the  principal  villages,  adding  to  the  interest  of  the  trip.  The 
awning  was  spread  as  a  protection  from  an  August  sun,  and  din- 
ner served  on  deck  to  a  numerous  party  of  different  races  and 
tongues,  who  seemed  to  enjoy  exceedingly  not  only  the  charm- 
ing panorama  but  the  light  and  delicious  beverage  produced 
from  such  clustering  vines  as  covered  the  mountain  side.  This 
being  the  fourth  time  that  I  had  navigated  this  stream,  I  could 
gaze  upon  its  beauties  with  less  emotion  than  formerly,  and, 
must  add,  for  the  grand  and  majestic,  the  scenery  of  the  noble 
Hudson  surpasses  the  Rhine,  although  the  former  is  deficient  in 
variety  of  detail.  The  frowning  castle  of  Ehrenbreitstein  (the 
Gibraltar  of  the  Rhine),  and  the  smiling  banks  of  the  Moselle, 
which  here  discharges  its  waters,  denote  our  arrival  at  Coblentz  ; 
and  a  two  hours'  ride  brings  us  to  the  village  of  Ems,  deservedly 
noted  for  its  picturesque  and  charming  site,  lying  in  the  valley, 
upon  the  margin  of  the  little  river  called  the  Lahn,  skirted  by 
mountains  on  both  sides.  I  find  myself  somewhat  at  home  here, 
being  lodged  in  the  same  quarters  in  which  I  spent  a  month  in 
the  summer  of  1848. 

The  discovery  of  the  thermal  waters  of  Ems  dates  from  an 
early  period   of  antiquity.     When   the  Roman  legions,  under 


EMS.  391 

Augustus  and  Tiberius,  occupied  these  mountains,  they  erected 
baths  in  honor  of  the  nymphs,  protectresses  of  the  mineral 
waters,  whose  fountains  mysteriously  came  from  the  earth- 
After  the  decline  of  the  Roman  power,  they  were  lost  sight  of 
until  the  twelfth  century,  when  Ems  passed  under  the  domina- 
tion of  the  Counts  of  Nassau.  It  was  not  until  1803  that  the 
house  of  Nassau  erected  the  convenient  and  commodious  build- 
ings now  forming  part  of  this  estabhshment.  Since  my  last  visit 
the  improvements  have  been  considerable  to  accommodate  the 
great  number  of  invalids  who  come  here  in  search  of  health. 
Ems  being  a  village  with  no  other  attractions  than  its  beautiful 
rides  and  walks,  everything  has  been  done  to  render  it  agreeable; 
large  and  fine  hotels  have  been  erected,  where  every  comfort 
may  be  obtained.  The  band  plays  morning  and  evening ;  the 
Kursaiil  is  a  fine  architectural  structure  for  concerts,  plays,  and 
general  reunions.  The  gardens  are  agreeable.  The  walks  and 
romantic  sites  are  covered  with  pavilions,  accessible  for  pedes- 
trians and  donkeys — which  latter  abound,  with  red  side-saddles 
with  cushioned  backs  for  ladies,  and  it  is  amusing  to  see  the 
competition  among  the  drivers  :  groups  of  both  sexes,  young  and 
old,  are  seen  winding  up  the  serpentine  ascents,  presenting  a 
droll  appearance.  The  waters  of  Ems  are  celebrated  for  the 
relief  of  bronchial,  pulmonary,  and  nervous  diseases ;  more  than 
one  half  of  the  visitors  are  ladies.  Here  one  meets  princes, 
dukes,  counts,  senators,  merchants,  etc.,  with  their  wives,  daugh- 
ters, and  friends ;  Russians,  Poles,  Germans,  Hollanders,  Danes, 
and  Frankfort  Jews,  whose  object  is  certainly  the  restoration  of 
health.  The  usual  term  for  employing  the  waters  for  bathing 
and  drinking  is  four  weeks,  and  the  hours  from  six  until  eight 
A.M. ;  you  see  at  the  hot  sparkling  fountains  of  the  Kesselbrun- 
nen  and  Krueuchin  from  six  hundred  to  eight  hundred  persons, 
with  fancy-colored  Bohemian  glasses  in  their  hands,  sipping  the 
not  unpleasant  bi-carbonate  fluid,  and  after  a  promenade  at  inter- 
vals of  from  a  quarter  to  half  an  hour,  returning  to  the  same,  the 
band  playing  all  the  while  inspiring  airs.  At  one  p.m.,  there  is 
a  table  d'hote  in  all  the  hotels,  and  parties  who  occupy  lodgings 
change,  if  desirable,  from  day  to  day,  and  are  more  generally 
thrown  together,  and  seem  to  become  more  acquainted,  than  at 
many  watering  places.  At  six  p.m.  all  congregate  at  the  springs, 
and  after  imbibing;   and  strolling  throuoh  the  rounds,  to  the 


392  NASSAU. 

sound  of  a  march  or  waltz,  disperse ;  at  eight,  all  is  quiet,  and 
the  trees,  plants,  and  flowers  are  left  alone  in  their  glory.  Such 
as  choose  to  sup  at  the  Kursaiil,  and  repair  to  the  concert  and 
gambling  saloons,  do  so. 

The  waters  of  Nassau  are  renowned,  and  are  a  source  of  wealth 
to  the  Duke,  who  is  commander-in-chief  of  this  little  province, 
which  contains  only  three  hundred  and  sixty  thousand  inhabit- 
ants. Large  quantities  of  Seltzer  water  are  exported  over 
Europe. 

In  the  history  of  this  little  duchy  of  Nassau,  the  discovery 
of  one  of  its  springs,  as  told  by  a  traveller,  is  so  full  of 
simplicity  that  I  cannot  refrain  from  repeating  it.  It  seems 
there  was  once  a  heifer  with  which  everything  in  nature  seemed 
to  disagree ;  the  more  she  ate  the  thinner  she  grew ;  the  more 
her  mother  licked  her  hide  the  rougher  it  became ;  the  flies  of 
the  forest  would  not  bite  her ;  she  was  never  known  to  chew  her 
cud ;  but,  hide-bound  and  melancholy,  her  hips  nearly  protruded 
through  her  skin  ;  no  one  knew  what  the  matter  was,  and  no 
one  could  cure  her.  At  last,  deserted  by  her  owner,  she  was 
abandoned  for  lost.  A  few  weeks  after,  she  appeared  among 
the  herd  with  ribs  covered  with  flesh,  eyes  like  a  deer's,  and 
skin  as  sleek  as  a  snail's ;  her  breath  smelling  sweetly  with 
milk;  every  day  seemed  to  re-establish  her  health.  The 
incident  was  so  striking  that  the  herdsman  was  induced  to 
w^atch  her;  he  perceived  that  every  evening  she  wended  her 
way  to  an  unknown  spring  of  water,  from  which  she  refreshed 
herself  and  returned  to  the  valley. 

This  circumstance  was  nearly  forgotten  by  the  peasant  when 
a  young  Nassau  lady  began  to  show  the  same  symptoms  as 
this  heifer.  The  herdsman  heard  of  her  case  and  advised  her  to 
try  the  waters,  which  she  did,  and  became  one  of  the  plumpest 
girls  in  the  duchy. 

Deaths  never  occur  here,  at  least  they  are  not  known,  for  the 
poor  patient  is  quietly  disposed  of  at  an  hour  when  none  but 
the  undertaker  is  on  duty.  The  sympathies  of  the  living  are 
not  thereby  excited,  and  the  bright  side  of  the  picture  is  the 
only  one  gazed  upon. 

This  water-drinking,  bathing  regimen  and  daily  routine 
becomes  monotonous  where  necessity  demands  it,  and  one  is 
rejoiced  at  the  approach  of  the  period  when  he  is  exempted  by 


WIESBADEN".  393 

the  physicians.  The  latter  are  found  invariably  in  the  morning 
promenades,  to  consult  with  their  clients.  But  for  fear  you  will 
be  gorged  and  saturated  with  mineral  waters  let  us  change  the 
subject. 

The  eyes  of  all  Europe  are  directed  to  our  country ;  its 
gigantic  strides,  its  wonderful  progress  excite  the  admiration 
of  those  who  sympathize  with  our  republican  institutions,  and 
the  envy  of  those  who  detest  and  fear  the  march  of  democracy. 
The  loss  of  the  better  classes  of  German  emigrants,  who  leave 
the  country  with  means,  is  a  source  of  anxiety  to  the  crowned 
heads,  and  every  obstacle  is  thrown  in  their  way  to  prevent 
emigration. 


CI. 

Frankfort-on-the-Maine,  Germany,  Sept.  20,  1854. 

I  HAVE,  within  the  last  month,  touched  and  visited  so  many 
points  that  I  scarcely  know  how  to  go  into  detail  in  the  short 
space  of  one  letter. 

I  went  from  Coblentz  up  the  Rhine,  whose  beauties  from  that 
point  to  Mayence  I  shall  not  attempt  to  describe.  I  embarked 
at  Biebrich,  the  residence  of  the  Grand  Duke  of  Nassau,  whose 
grounds  and  parks  must  not  be  neglected,  and  went  by  vehicle 
to  Wiesbaden,  the  great  thoroughfare,  as  a  watering-place.  Its 
hot  chicken  broth  fountain,  with  its  numerous  pipes,  supplies 
scores  of  hotels  and  bath  houses.  Its  Kursaals,  with  play  rooms 
and  dining  halls,  got  up  on  a  grand  scale,  with  the  adjoining 
galleries,  filled  with  fancy  shops  of  infinite  variety,  attract  the 
stranger.  The  lovers  of  secluded  and  sheltered  serpentine 
walks,  bordered  with  flowers,  but  deprived  of  the  autumn 
scenery,  may  find  comfort  and  delight  at  Wiesbaden ;  and  children 
may  gambol  upon  the  grass,  and  feed  the  ducks  in  the  little 
artificial  lakes,  while  the  lordly  white  swan  sails  along  and 
claims  his  authority.  The  weather  was  dry  and  fine.  I  had 
got  away  from  the  rainy  streak,  and  all  was  pleasant ;  but  as  I 
was  not  a  stranger  in  Wiesbaden  I  shortened  my  visit  and 
resumed  my  march.  From  thence,  by  railroad,  I  came  to  this 
free  German  city.  From  Frankfort  we  go  to  Homburg,  within 
two  hours,  by  railroad  and  omnibus.     Among  the  thirty  odd 


394:  HOMBURG. 

divisions  into  whicli  Germany  is  unfortanately  cut  up  and 
divided,  this  small  landgrave  is  perhaps  the  smallest,  and  will 
die  out  with  the  death  of  the  present  incumbent,  who  is  already 
old.  It  will  pass  into  the  Duchy  of  Darmstadt  adjoining.  The 
celebrity  of  the  waters  of  Ilomburg  for  dyspepsia,  its  superior 
position  for  high  and  varied  scenery,  and  the  privilege  granted 
by  Count  Alexander  for  gambling  the  entire  year,  a  privilege 
which  exists  only  here,  have  made  Homburg  a  flourishing 
village.  The  sum  paid  for  the  privilege  of  gambling  is  thirty 
thousand  dollars  annually.  The  bank  is  not  only  able  to  pay 
this  large  sum  and  give  greater  favors  to  players  than  other 
banks,  but  has  expended  an  enormous  amount  upon  the 
buildings;  the  saloons  are  the  most  gorgeous  of  the  kind  in 
Europe,  and  play  is  higher  and  more  general  here  than  at  any 
of  the  watering-places  in  Germany.  Ladies  are  among  the 
heaviest  players.  It  is  a  strange  and  fascinating  passion,  and 
leads  to  great  abuses.  I  will  cite  an  example:  on  Saturday 
evening  I  noticed  a  lady  risking  a  large  number  of  sovereigns, 
with  unusual  nonchalance.  The  next  morning  I  saw  her  at  the 
English  Episcopal  Church.  My  curiosity  induced  me  to  see,  on 
returning,  if  the  same  person  would  enter  the  gaming  rooms 
that  day.  To  my  surprise  I  found  her  at  her  post,  with  her  pile 
of  gold  before  her.  I  had  heard  that  in  this  district,  surrounded 
by  Germans,  there  existed  a  colony  of  French,  and  I  was 
induced  to  pay  a  visit  to  their  village,  which  interested  me 
much.  I  found  a  neat  pretty  settlement  of  one  thousand  souls, 
the  descendants  of  thirteen  Protestant  families  who  escaped  from 
France  after  the  revocation  of  the  edict  of  Nantes,  under  Louis 
XIV.,  and  were  protected  by  Frederick  11.  They  have  a 
church  which  cost  thirty  thousand  florins  (twelve  thousand 
dollars)  and  two  institutions  for  boys  and  girls,  where  children 
from  different  parts  of  Germany  are  educated  in  French.  They 
always  converse  in  French  among  themselves,  and  have  pre- 
served their  language  remarkably.  They  are  all  familiar  with 
German,  and  talk  with  outsiders  in  German,  the  language  of  the 
country.  They  have  several  branches  of  industry  in  cotioji, 
flax,  and  wool.  It  was  curious  and  novel  to  witness  this  happy, 
tidy,  industrious  little  community,  surrounded  by  other  villages 
quite  impoverished,  and  in  a  little  territory  about  equal  to  the 
size  of  one  of  our  counties,  heavily  taxed  to  keep  up  the  dignity 


SPEYER.  395 

of  a  court  with  palace  and  grounds,  with  its  quota  of  military ; 
but  how  hard  is  the  fate  of  a  poor  man  with  a  family  toiling  and 
striving  for  the  pittance  of  eight  groschens,  only  twenty  cents 
per  day,  as  several  have  told  me  when  I  have  stopped  and  asked 
the  price  of  labor,  and  in  this  almost  famine  year.  When  they 
hear  of  America  they  are  eager  to  be  off,  but  the  means  are  not 
provided. 

From  Homburg  I  proceeded  to  Darmstadt  and  Manheim,  in 
order  to  make  a  detour  to  Speyer,  which  is  celebrated  for  its 
Cathedral.  At  Manheim  the  river  to  Ludwigshafen,  on  the 
opposite  shore,  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  formed  by  some  thirty 
iron  flat-bottomed  boats  of  canal-boat  size,  fastened  tosfcther, 
upon  which  the  structure  is  laid,  with  draws  for  the  passage  of 
steamers,  as  is  the  case  all  along  the  Khine.  An  hour's  ride  by 
railroad  carries  one  to  the  old  town  of  Speyer.  It  was  once  popu- 
lous, but  is  now  reduced  to  six  thousand  inhabitants,  and  contains 
only  one  object  of  interest,  a  cathedral,  which  may  be  considered 
the  pride  of  Germany,  as  uniting  the  work  of  the  best  modern 
artists.  This  cathedral,  which  was  commenced  under  the  EmjDeror 
Conrad  II.,  in  the  year  1030,  has  been  burnt  and  rebuilt  three 
several  times,  and  now,  under  the  auspices  of  the  king  of  Bavaria, 
in  whose  dominion  it  lies,  has  been  renovated  in  the  modern  style, 
with  exquisite  taste,  differing  so  widely  from  the  antiquity  which 
we  so  constantly  find  in  these  old  memorable  edifices,  that  the 
contrast  is  the  more  striking  and  more  gratifying  to  the  eye. 

On  my  return  I  went  to  Heidelberg  and  Baden  Baden.  I 
visited  all  the  points  I  had  formerly  seen  and  described  to  you, 
but  none  struck  me  as  new,  or  worthy  of  description.  Heidel- 
berg is  a  lovely  spot  for  scenery,  and  Baden  may  claim  the  pre- 
ference as  being  the  gayest  and  most  charming  watering-place  in 
Germany. 

In  getting  out  of  the  cars  I  was  greeted  by  an  old  travelling 

friend  in  Italy  and  Germany — our  Consul  at  R m,  formerly 

a  bachelor,  but  now  married  and  here  with  his  wife.  We  were 
soon  joined  by  two  former  acquaintances,  the  American  Minister 
from  Belgium,  with  his  sisters  and  cousin.  We  made  a  veiy 
pleasant  excursion  party  in  two  carriages,  and  for  three  days 
castles  tenanj^ed  by  grave  ancestors,  and  patriots,  situated  upon 
high  mountain  tops,  and  in  dark- wooded  forests,  were  hunted  up 
and  examined.     The  party  was  not  disposed  the  less  to  climb 


396  KEHL   AND   STRASBURG. 

the  moss-covered  walls  of  the  schloss  or  chateau  to  points  where 
the  most  extended  views  might  be  obtained.  A  trout  and  game 
dinner  in  the  country,  well  served,  restored  us  from  the  fatigue 
attending  such  exercise,  and  we  drove  to  town  in  time  for  the 
evening  band  and  concert. 

I  left  for  Strasburg,  in  order  to  descend  the  Rhine,  which  I 
had  not  seen  from  that  point  to  Mayence,  and  also  to  change  the 
route.  A  sad  sight  presented  itself  at  my  departure,  another 
evidence  of  the  uncertainty  of  life.  A  new  car,  in  three  com-- 
partments,  with  extended  roof  and  balcony  all  round,  and  doors 
opening  from  the  sides,  was  put  on,  which  car  I  chose  to  take, 
notwithstanding  the  Germans  say  that  none  but  princes  and  fools 
travel  in  first-class  cars ;  the  second-class  is  good,  but  the  third- 
class  is  very  rough.  I  was  standing  on  the  balcony  when  the 
cars  moved  off,  and  saw  a  well-dressed  man,  who  had  escorted 
three  ladies  and  just  taken  leave  of  them,  come  out.  Finding  he 
was  late,  he  attempted  foolishly  to  get  off  while  the  train  was  in 
rapid  motion ;  he  tripped,  fell  under  the  wheels,  and  was  cut  in 
two  under  our  eyes  ;  only  three  of  us  witnessed  the  accident.  I 
gave  an  alarm  hastily,  and  succeeded  in  stopping  the  train.  My 
sympathies  were  strongly  excited  for  the  afflicted  ladies,  and  his 
only  daughter,  who  is  now  an  orphan. 

Lightning  speed  soon  carried  us  to  Kehl,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Rhine,  and  then  we  took  an  omnibus  across  the  bridge  of 
boats  to  the  French  Alsatian  shore,  where,  after  the  usual  delay 
of  visitation  of  passports  and  baggage,  we  passed  a  few  miles 
further,  to  the  well-fortified  city  of  Strasburg.  It  has  ninety 
thousand  population,  and  is  noted  for  its  cathedral  and  tower  of 
a  remarkable  height  (I  believe  the  highest  in  Europe),  also  for 
its  extraordinary  clock,  with  machinery  denoting  the  changes 
of  the  weather,  the  action  of  the  hours,  &c.  At  twelve  at  noon 
an  anxious  group  assembles  in  the  building  to  witness  the  per- 
formance of  the  figures  upon  the  frontispiece  of  the  mammoth 
clock.  When  the  grim  figure  of  Death,  hammer  in  hand,  strikes 
the  hour  of  twelve,  the  figures  of  the  twelve  Apostles  revolve  in 
succession,  and  make  reverential  bows  before  Christ,  who  in 
return  pronounces  the  benediction.  A  huge  cock,  perched 
above,  flaps  his  gilded  wings  strongly,  and  crows  three  times 
with  a  voice  sufficiently  strong  to  make  a  tame  chanticleer  take 
to  his  heels.    The  original  clock,  which  I  was  shown  years  since, 


WILHELMSHOIIE.  397 

has  been  removed,  but  is  still  on  exhibition.  Its  inventor,  who 
was  suspected  of  the  design  of  building  a  second  for  another  city 
of  France,  had  his  eyes  put  out ;  he  then  revenged  himself  by 
breaking  certain  springs  which  baffled  the  ingenuity  of  others  to 
replace. 

During  high  mass  I  noticed  a  group  of  emigrants  paying  their 
last  addresses  to  the  Virgin  before  embarkation.  I  had  seen  the 
healthy,  robust  men  and  women  on  the  road  with  their  heavy 
chattels  marked  for  America.  They  told  me  they  were  going  to 
Wisconsin,  and  had  friends  there. 

Embarking  upon  a  small  steamer,  a  few  miles  of  canal  naviga- 
tion bring  us  to  the  Ehine,  and  down  its  circuitous  current  we 
go  at  a  rapid  rate,  mostly  through  a  flat  country,  without  much 
of  interest  except  the  towns  of  Worms  and  Speyer,  which  I  had 
already  visited  by  railway.  I  debarked  at  Mayence,  and  returned 
again  to  this  busy,  active  city,  with  its  sixty-thousand  population, 
noted  for  its  money  operations,  fairs,  seat  of  the  German  diet ; 
its  numerous  picture  galleries,  public  buildings,  and  its  beautiful 
suburbs,  are  attractive  to  the  tourist. 


OIL 

Hanover,  Germany,   Oct.  20,  1854. 

Since  I  wrote  you  from  Frankfort,  I  have  visited  Hesse 
Cassel. 

The  chateau  of  Wilhelmshohe,  the  summer  residence,  about 
three  miles  from  town,  with  its  hydraulics,  and  the  eifect  pro- 
duced by  the  cascades  and  jets  d'eau,  are  superb.  The  great 
cascade  is  nine  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  and  forty  feet  wide, 
interrupted  by  basins  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  apart,  as  the  water  descends  from  a  high  hill,  the  sum- 
mit of  which  is  covered  by  an  octagon  tower,  surmounted  by  a 
colossal  Hercules  of  bronze,  club  in  hand,  thirteen  feet  high. 
Walking  through  the  grounds  alone,  I  could  scarcely  realize  the 
flict  that  twelve  years  had  elapsed  since  I  climbed  up  the  height 
and  peeped  out  of  a  little  opening  within  the  huge  club  which  the 
gigantic  figure  holds  in  his  hand ;  that  I  had  wandered,  since, 
nearly  twice  around  the  globe ;  had  been  exposed  to  all  the 
accidents  and  casualties  of  life,  in  every  variety  of  climate  ;  and 


898  FEMALE    LABORERS. 

that  I  found  myself,  through  a  protecting  Providence,  on  the 
same  spot  again.  I  should  not  have  made  these  remarks  but 
from  hearing  of  the  frightful  loss  of  life  by  the  steamer  Arctic, 
in  which  I  came  last  to  Europe,  and  have  reason  to  believe  that 
four  of  my  fellow-travellers,  who  were  in  Eome  during  the 
Holy  Week,  and  who  accompanied  me  in  excursions  from 
Naples,  have  perished.  I  was  waiting  the  departure  of  a  steamer 
from  that  city  to  Leghorn,  when  we  heard  of  the  frightful  cata- 
strophe, and  sinking  of  the  Ercolano  by  the  steamer  Siciliano,  an 
affair  similar  to  the  one  just  mentioned.  This  deterred  these 
persons,  among  others,  from  taking  the  sea  route,  and  they  left 
by  land.  My  logic  has  been,  usually,  after  an  accident,  to 
take  the  same  means  of  conveyance,  as  more  care  is  then 
exercised. 

From  Cassel,  I  went  by  post  to  Gottingen,  famed  for  its 
University,  with  some  six  hundred  pupils,  and  its  extensive 
library. 

The  contrast  between  the  railroad  travel  of  the  |)resent  day, 
with  its  rapid  transition  from  one  city  to  another,  and  the  slow 
mail  coach  of  the  past,  was  striking;  and  I  was  reminded  fully 
of  my  first  journey  through  Austria,  Hungary,  Prussia,  and 
Saxony,  by  all  sorts  of  fast  and  slow  conveyances,  when  all  the 
countries  named  had  not  two  hundred  miles  of  railway.  It  was 
certainly  tedious,  and  occupied  much  time ;  but  the  country  was 
seen  to  better  advantage,  and  the  halts  at  small  towns  and  vil- 
•lao"es  were  entertaining  and  instructive,  and  gave  a  better  idea  of 
the  people  and  their  customs  than  the  present  lightning  line  of 
communication. 

Although  great  improvements  have  been  made,  the  people 
seem  to  toil  as  formerly  for  the  necessaries  of  life,  and  the 
weaker  sex  is  made  to  bear  largely  its  share  of  the  burden. 

Not  only  are  fine-looking,  healthy  girls  seen  constantly  in  the 
fields,  performing  men's  labor,  but  in  the  cities  they  perform  the 
most  menial  service  of  wood-sawing,  sweeping  streets,  and  load- 
ing carts  with  oflfal.  How  often  I  think  of  our  blessed  country, 
the  paradise  of  women,  and  the  thousand  advantages  they  enjoy 
there,  in  comparison  with  their  sisters  in  continental  Europe, 
Not  only  is  the  sex  compelled  to  perform  a  full  quota  of  the 
service,  but  tlie  brute  creation  must  also  perform  its  part.  I 
have  often  thought  how  odd  it  would  aj^pear  with  us,  to  see  the 


A   SHAM    FIGHT,  899 

butchers'  and  bakers'  carts,  and  milk  wagons,  drawn  by  collared 
and  harnessed  dogs,  and  the  novel  sight  of  single  cows,  or  spans 
of  cows,  coming  to  town  with  loads  of  grain  or  vegetables. 
The  truth  is,  when  carpenters  and  masons  obtain  but  fourteen 
groschens,  or  forty -two  cents,  per  day,  and  laborers  from  twenty- 
live  to  thirty  cents,  and  the  necessaries  of  life  are  at  the  present 
dear  rates,  every  measure  is  resorted  to  for  earning  an  honest 
living. 

The  lager,  or  encampment,  of  fourteen  thousand  men,  is 
situated  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city.  The  citizen  army  is  com- 
posed of  thirty  thousand  men. 

We  have  just  had  a  sham  fight,  which  was  seen  to  great 
advantage  from  a  hill  in  the  vicinity  of  the  plain  upon  which 
the  manoeuvre  took  place,  and  gave  a  good  idea  of  the  battle- 
field. The  approach  of  the  marching  forces,  to  the  sound  of 
drum  and  fife,  and  shrill  tones  of  the  bugle,  and  the  bayonets 
glittering  in  the  sun's  rays,  were  exciting.  The  cavalrj-  was 
led  by  the  king  in  person.  Then  came  the  conflict,  the  thunder- 
ing noise  of  the  cannon ;  the  continued  volleys  of  musketry 
from  the  infantry ;  the  reconnoitring  movements  of  the  rifle- 
men ;  the  dashing  charges  of  the  horsemen,  half-buried  in 
smoke ;  the  retreats,  the  reforming  of  the  ranks ;  the  advan- 
tages gained  and  lost ;  the  leaps  of  the  horsemen  over  artificial 
stockades  and  sloughs  of  water ;  the  queen  and  royal  family, 
with  liveried  outriders,  drawn  by  and  mounted  upon  magnifi- 
cent steeds,  hovered  around  the  borders  of  the  battle-field. 

The  thousands  of  citizens  on  this  festival  day  crowning  the 
heights,  and  the  enthusiasm  manifested,  gave  interest  to  the 
scene. 


cm. 

Bremen,  Germany,  ITov.  21,  1854. 
My  last  was  from  Hanover.  I  now  write  from  this  free  port 
and  commercial  city,  situated  upon  the  banks  of  the  Weser, 
which  river  divides  the  old  and  new  town.  Its  gardens  are  laid 
out  in  English  style,  giving  the  new  town  a  neat  appearance, 
and  many  improvements  have  been  made  since  my  visit  in  the 
summer  of  1848. 


400  WIXE   CELLARS. 

Small  vessels  come  to  the  city,  but  the  larger  class  of  steamers 
and  ships  remain  at  Bremen  harbor,  a  few  leagues  below. 

The  chief  trade  is  with  America.  The  quantity  of  cigars 
manufactured  from  our  tobacco  is  enormous,  employing  some 
thousands  of  persons,  and  scattering  the  manufactured  article 
throughout  this  land  of  smokers. 

The  number  of  emigrants  forwarded  to  America  is  scarcely 
credible. 

In  most  of  the  German  cities,  under  the  "  Bathhaus,^^  or  town 
hall,  is  a  wholesale  and  retail  wine  cellar,  the  profits  of  which 
accrue  to  the  church,  bishopric,  or  city  authorities,  according  to 
the  circumstances  of  an  early  granted  privilege.  Since  the  Ger- 
man reformation  the  right  here  belongs  to  the  municipality  :  and 
the  cellars  under  the  town-hall  are  shown  to  strangers  as  among 
the  prominent  curiosities  of  the  city.  The  long  succession  of 
basements  contains  the  choice  qualities  of  Rhine  wine,  in  huge 
oak  casks,  varying  in  size,  the  largest  containing  thirty-six  thou- 
sand bottles  of  "  Rudesheinier^^^  of  the  vintage  of  1806.  The 
heads  of  the  mammoth  casks  are  well  braced  by  cross  pieces, 
with  sculptured  allegorical  and  historical  figures  in  wood,  and 
highly  gilded.  In  one  room,  the  god  Bacchus,  and  his  followers, 
of  life  size,  all  gilded  and  crowned  with  wreaths  of  grape  vines 
filled  with  fruit,  are  seated  upon  the  centre  of  one  of  three  large 
vats,  dating  back  as  far  as  1624:.  One  of  the  cellars  most 
renowned  for  quality  is  called  the  Rose,  and  another  the  Twelve 
Apostles,  from  its  containing  only  twelve  casks,  whose  names 
are  painted  upon  metal  plates,  which  are  attached  to  the  heads. 
The  wine  in  these  casks  is  the  delicious,  light  Hockheimer  Rhine 
wine  of  1718.  The  rivalry  lies  between  Peter,  Simon,  and 
Judas.  A  manager  is  appointed  by  the  city  authorities,  subject 
to  the  supervision  of  the  director,  and  monthly  reports  are  made. 
City  funds  are  appropriated,  and  the  supply  is  kept  up  from  the 
last  vintages,  so  that  the  public  may  be  supplied  with  a  pure 
article  at  moderate  prices.  A  large  old  sign,  in  the  Rose  Keller^ 
has  the  following  inscription,  literally  translated  from  the  Ger- 
man :  "  What  to  the  stomach,  to  the  body,  and  to  the  heart, 
health,  vigor  and  spirit  can  give,  can  console  the  afflicted,  can 
revive  half  dead  persons,  yields  this  Rose  wine." 


HANOVEE.  401 


CIV. 

Hanover. 

Hanover  lies  on  the  small  river  Liene,  and  is  the  royal  resi- 
dence. It  contains  the  city  palace,  the  summer  palaces  and 
grounds ;  among  the  number  is  the  Herren  Hansen^  with  fountains, 
orange  and  botanical  gardens.  In  the  latter  is  a  palm  house,  of 
iron  and  glass,  a  crystal  palace  in  miniature — which  is  unique  of 
its  kind.  It  is  kept  at  an  oriental  temperature,  and  almost  all 
the  varieties  of  palm  and  date  trees  familiar  to  me  in  the  East  and 
West  Indies,  are  to  be  found  there.  The  mausoleum,  at  the 
extremity  of  the  ground,  is  a  snug  edifice,  containing  the  royal 
remains  of  the  late  king  and  queen.  The  beautiful,  full  length 
figure  of  the  deceased  queen,  in  white  Carrara  marble,  is  a  fine 
specimen  of  art,  and  is  very  like  the  much-admired  reposing 
statue  of  the  queen  of  Prussia.  The  wilds  and  forests  of  the 
king,  extending  for  miles  in  the  suburbs,  give  the  citizens  a 
variety  of  walks  and  drives  in  different  directions. 

It  is  evident  that  the  Germans,  unlike  the  English,  never  paid 
for  light  and  air  in  the  shape  of  a  window  tax.  The  old  part  of 
the  city  is  literally  a  town  of  windows  ;  many  are  beautified  with 
plants  and  flowers,  fancy  screens  and  porcelain  views,  which 
give  it  an  enlivening  appearance,  in  contrast  with  the  gable- 
ended,  projecting,  over-hanging  houses. 

The  KbnigUche  Ho/theatre  is  a  pretty  monument  to  the  memory 
of  the  late  king,  Ernest  Augustus,  standing  upon  a  beautiful 
site,  two  hundred  and  eighty  feet  front,  and  one  hundred  and 
ninety  deep  ;  the  front  portico  is  surmounted  by  life-size  statues 
of  twelve  celebrated  writers  and  composers,  among  whom  are 
Goethe,  Schiller,  Mozart,  Beethoven,  Shakespeare,  Moli^re,  and 
others.  The  interior  decorations  are  luxurious  for  Germany. 
In  the  middle  of  the  front  range  of  boxes,  is  the  king's  loge,.  the 
inside  of  which  is  white  and  gold,  covered  with  the  royal  arms ; 
outside  are  velvet  curtains. 

The  theatre  is  regarded  as  instructive  and  moral,  and  is  unlike 
what  it  is  in  many  countries.  I  was  accompanied  thither  by  a 
very  worthy  minister  and  his  wife,  and  the  daughter  of  another 
divine,  whom  I  had  traveled  with  up  the  Rhine,  and  who  acci- 
dentally visited  the  city. 

26 


402  FONDNESS   FOR   RANK. 

The  officers  of  the  army,  nearly  a  hundred  in  number,  are 
obliged  to  subscribe  monthly ;  their  uniform  gives  the  theatre  a 
stiff,  military  air,  unlike  that  of  the  Thalia  Club,  which  has  fif- 
teen hundred  members,  or  annual  subscribers,  with  reading 
rooms,  billiard  rooms,  refreshment  saloons,  and  a  theatre  four 
times  per  week,  which  is  fully  attended  by  the  respectable  mid- 
dle classes  of  ladies  and  gentlemen,  and  looks  quite  democratic. 

The  Museum  Club,  of  which  I  am  a  member,  is  composed  of 
three  hundred,  a  large  proportion  of  whom  are  active  or  retired 
civil  and  military  officers. 

Here  all  is  marked  out  by  rule.  So  many  branches  of  trade 
of  each  description  are  allowed  by  royal  authority.  Application 
must  be  made  for  permission  to  engage  in  an  occupation ;  if  it  is 
considered  that  there  are  already  sufficient  of  that  branch,  the 
applicant  is  refused. 

Such  is  the  fondness  for  title  or  rank,  which  pervades  most 
classes,  that  the  smith,  shoemaker,  tinman,  or  tailor,  is  delighted 
when  he  attains  the  privilege  of  putting  up  the  royal  arms  on 
his  sign,  to  signify  that  he  is  employed  by  his  Majesty. 

We  have  had  a  German  Fair,  which  brought  together  a  mul- 
titude from  the  surrounding  country  and  cities.  Aside  from  the 
cattle  show,  I  was  struck  with  the  varieties  of  manufactured  arti- 
cles, the  exhibition  of  toys,  curious  costumes  of  the  peasant 
girls,  the  playing  of  mountebanks,  and  the  general  consumption 
of  honey  cakes. 


CV. 

Braunschweig,  Germany,  Dec.  26,  1854. 
My  last  was  from  Hanover.  Braunschweig,  the  capital  city  of 
the  duchy,  notwithstanding  its  princely  residence  and  forty 
thousand  inhabitants,  has  not  the  life  and  activity  generally 
observed  in  Hanover.  The  palace  and  grounds  of  the  Herzog, 
or  Duke  Wilhelm,  merit  attention.  Having  no  wife,  or  family, 
his  court  is  not  brilliant  in  proportion  to  the  royal  family  of 
Hanover,  although  his  own  private  revenue  and  ducal  appoint- 
ments are  equal  to  two  hundred  thousand  dollars  of  our  cur- 
rency ;  a  very  respectable  sum  for  a  population  of  two  liundred 
and  fifty  thousand.     The   former  Duke,   who  had  his  palace 


CHRISTMAS    EVE.  403 

burned  over  liis  head,  and  was  chased  from  his  country  for  nial- 
conduct,  I  had  occasion  to  speak  of  last  winter,  at  a  court  ball 
given  at  the  Tuileries.  The  present  duke  is  the  last  of  his 
family,  and,  being  without  issue,  the  reversion  goes  to  the  Prus- 
sian crown. 

Christmas  is  an  important  festival  in  Germany ;  the  city  pre- 
sented a  gay  appearance  in  consequence  of  the  many  prepara- 
tions for  this  event.  The  market  places  were  covered  with  Tan- 
nen  Baumer,  or  fir  trees,  with  booths  and  tents  filled  with  every 
variety  of  fancy  articles,  for  presents,  not  forgetting  a  profusion 
of  honey  cakes  in  every  form,  for  which  the  town  has  a  celebrity. 
All  classes  must  have  large  or  small  fir  trees  standing  upon  plat- 
forms, some  of  which  are  decorated  with  inclosed  garden  houses 
in  miniature,  and  other  designs. 

Eeturning  here  in  time  for  the  Christmas-eve  ceremonies, 
which  I  had  a  good  opprotunity  of  seeing  at  a  friend's  house,  you 
will  pardon  my  describing,  at  this  holiday  season,  what  may 
interest  the  young.  In  the  centre  of  the  saloon  stood  a  small 
tree,  nearly  the  height  of  the  ceiling,  its  branches  hung  with 
variegated  colored  glass  balls,  round  cakes,  nuts  in  gold-  and  sil- 
ver-leaf foil,  confectionery  of  various  kinds,  the  infant  Jesus  in  a 
lying  position  suspended  from  the  branches,  the  whole  inter- 
spersed with  wax  tapers.  The  tables  were  spread  with  a  variety 
of  clothing,  and  other  useful  and  ornamental  articles  for  the 
children  of  from  eight  to  fourteen  years  of  age,  who  were 
anxiously  waiting  outside  the  closed  folding  doors  until  the  illu- 
mination took  place ;  then,  each  one  rushed  to  his  or  her  table, 
expressing  childish  astonishment  and  delight.  Once  recovered 
from  their  emotions,  the  parents  were  surprised  in  turn  by  the 
children,  who  had  prepared  a  miniature  tree  and  many  little  arti- 
cles of  embroidery,  wrought  at  intervals  unknown  to  the  elders. 
The  expressions  of  wonder  and  joy  are  general.  Grandmothers, 
aunts,  and  nieces,  had  been  industriously  employed  for  the  past 
three  weeks  in  preparing  gifts.  The  servants  next  received  their 
presents.     The  evening  closed  with  refreshments. 

Speaking  of  Christmas  Eve,  I  am  reminded  of  Polterabend, 
or  Nuptial  Eve :  some  evenings  since,  I  was  startled  by  extraor- 
dinary sounds  upon  the  sidewalk,  opposite  my  house,  and  on 
inquiring,  found  that  it  was  caused  by  the  throwing  of  glass  bot- 
tles and  a  perfect  shower  of  old  crockery  plates,  which  singular 


404  LOVE    OF   ROYALTY. 

custom  was  tlie  greeting  of  the  friends  of  a  young  lady  who  was 
to  be  married  on  the  following  da}^ ;  and,  at  the  appointed  time, 
the  carriages  arrived  to  take  the  lady-bride  to  the  church  over 
which  the  minister-groom  presided.  I  have  passed  houses, 
where  the  front  entrances  appeared  as  if  a  family  quarrel  had 
made  a  perfect  wreck  of  the  j^orcelain. 

The  people  in  Hanover  are  dazzled  with  palaces,  horses,  car- 
riages, and  liveried  court-dresses,  and  servants.  Ladies  look 
with  admiration  upon  the  queen,  and  her  richly-clad  maids  of 
honor ;  children  exclaim,  "  There  goes  the  pretty  little  crown- 
prince  and  the  princesses !"  And  how  often  have  I  observed  in 
theatres  and  concerts  the  patient  people  waiting  a  half  hour  or 
more  the  arrival  of  the  royal  suite  before  the  exercises  com- 
menced, when  the  impatient  Americans,  in  similar  circumstances, 
would  have  brought  down  the  house  over  the  ears  of  the  mana- 
ger. Then  the  cringing  manner  of  the  employees  and  military 
officers,  keeping  an  eye  on  the  king:  when  he  applauds,  the 
applause  becomes  universal,  while,  if  he  is  silent,  a  meritorious 
artist  receives,  perhaps,  not  the  slightest  compliment. 

One  great  source  of  annoyance  in  Germany,  is  the  great 
variety  of  coin  and  weights  in  use  among  the  thirty  and  more 
different  empires,  kingdoms,  duchies,  and  landgraves,  whereby 
we  must  always  lose  in  exchange  in  going  from  one  point  to 
another.  An  effort  has  been  made  in  the  Bund,  or  confederacy, 
at  Frankfort,  to  bring  about  more  uniformity,  but  the  great 
quantity  of  base  metal,  of  little  value,  in  use  in  some  districts, 
causes  the  measure  to  be  opposed. 


POTSDAM.  405 


18  5  5. 
CYI. 

Berlin,  Prussia,  Feb.  2*7,  1855. 

When  I  last  wrote  you  from  Braunschweig  I  was  on  the  eve 
of  departure  for  Berlin  and  Vienna,  and  thought  it  not  improbable 
that  I  might  go  again  to  Italy ;  but  the  severe  winter  weather 
coming  suddenly  on  induced  me  to  quiet  myself  in  comfortable 
quarters  in  this  city,  where  from  the  conveniences  for  heating  with 
the  use  of  wood,  the  cold  is  less  felt  than  in  some  parts  of  Italy, 
Hamburg,  Magdeburg,  and  Potsdam,  en  route  to  Berlin,  I  had  once 
visited  in  summer,  under  more  favorable  circumstances,  conse- 
quently my  stay  in  them  was  short. 

I  was  reminded  in  Magdeburg  that  Martin  Luther,  one  of  the 
great  men  whom  Germany  has  given  to  the  world,  and  to  whose 
former  abode  in  Wittenburg,  where  the  Keformation  commenced, 
I  had  wended  my  steps,  was  a  poor  student  there,  and  often  sang 
in  the  streets  to  assist  in  supporting  himself,  as  many  others  are 
doing  daily.  Potsdam  is  to  Berlin  what  Versailles  is  to  Paris. 
Frederic  the  Great  made  it  a  lovely  retreat  for  the  court.  Here 
are  seen  the  apartments  of  the  great  warrior  nearly  as  he  left 
them,  remarkable  for  simplicity  ;  the  truck-bed  upon  which  he 
slept,  his  writing-table  blotted  with  ink,  silken  covered  chairs 
partly  torn  by  his  dogs,  and  the  plates  upon  which  they  were  fed. 

The  windmill  stands  behind  the  palace  of  Sans  Souci,  an 
emblem  of  justice  in  Prussia.  Though  the  story  is  well  known 
I  cannot  forbear  repeating  it.  The  great  Frederic,  wanting  to 
buy  the  mill  with  the  grounds,  to  augment  his  gardens,  was 
resisted  by  the  miller,  who  gained  the  lawsuit.  The  king 
erected  the  present  large  mill  for  him.  Since  then  the  descend- 
ants of  the  miller,  being  in  embarrassed  circumstances,  offered  to 
sell  it  to  the  late  king,  who  would  not  accept  the  offer,  but  settled 
a  sum  sufficient  to  enable  the  family  to  retain  possession,  saying 
the  mill  belonged  to  history,  and  was  one  of  the  monuments  of 
the  country. 


406  Washington's  biethday. 

It  is  now  some  years  since  I  strolled  over  tlie  grounds  of  the 
Kremlin  in  Moscow,  and  it  was  a  reminiscence  to  find  here  a 
little  chapel  belonging  to  the  Kussian  colony,  surmounted  by 
three  domes,  of  miniature  Kremlin  form,  and  beautifully  fitted 
up  by  the  royal  munificence  for  the  Greek  service. 

While  in  this  capital  on  two  former  occasions  in  summer,  it 
struck  me  as  being  lifeless.  We  have  cold  weather,  with  ice 
and  snow  ;  the  splendid  sleighs  and  horses,  adorned  with  varie- 
gated colored  feathers,  present  a  lively  appearance.  The  city 
appears  full  of  life  and  gaiet}^ ;  the  opera  and  theatres  seem  well 
attended,  dancing  and  music  being  striking  traits  in  the  German 
character ;  balls  adapted  to  all  classes  are  continually  taking 
place.  The  Kroll  establishment  of  the  Brandenburg  Thor 
which  corresponds  to  Niblo's  in  New  York,  but  is  on  a  more 
stupendous  scale,  and  compares  favorably  with  anything  in  Paris 
for  its  elegance,  among  other  entertainments,  has  lately  given 
masquerade  balls.  Curiosity  induced  me  to  attend  one,  in  order 
to  compare  it  with  those  of  other  countries,  and  found,  as  I 
expected,  that  the  people  are  not  adapted  to  this  species  of 
amusement,  as  in  Spain,  and  in  the  colonies,  where,  during  the 
carnival,  all  classes  unite  in  these  diversions  in  every  variety  of 
costume,  assuming  particular  parts,  and  sustaining  them  admi- 
rably. I  had  passed  a  far  more  agreeable  and  rational  evening, 
under  the  folds  of  the  stars  and  stripes,  at  the  house  of  Gov. 
Vroom,  of  New  Jersey,  our  present  worthy  representative  at  the 
court  of  Berlin,  on  the  anniversary  of  the  birthday  of  Washington. 
There  were  some  twenty -five  in  number  present,  representing 
different  States  of  the  Union,  who  responded  to  the  calls,  senti- 
ments, and  toasts  naturally  called  forth  by  the  handsome  enter- 
tainment. The  night  was  cold,  cheerful  American  grate-fires 
were  blazing,  and  the  party  conversed  together  upon  home 
topics.  My  mind  wandered  as  I  saw  the  beautiful  silk  banner 
hanging  against  the  wall,  to  the  last  occasion  I  had  had  of 
commemorating  this  festival.  It  was  at  our  minister's  house  in 
Brazil,  three  years  since,  we  mustered  a  small  party  of  half-a- 
dozen  ;  the  flag  was  flying  from  the  balcony  overlooking  the 
beautiful  bay  of  Rio  Janeiro,  and  the  doors  and  windows  were 
thrown  wide  open  to  get  a  breath  of  air,  the  perspiration  starting 
from  every  pore,  and  this  in  the  height  of  a  South  American 
summer  on  the  22d  of  February. 


GERMAN   STOVES.  407 

Most  of  the  Americans  here  are  students  who  have  the  advan- 
tage of  lectures  in  the  University  on  law,  medicine,  botany, 
Egyptian  antiquities,  and  other  subjects. 

The  royal  library  contains  five  hundred  thousand  volumes, 
and  has  a  public  reading-room  for  students  and  strangers,  who, 
when  recommended,  can  obtain  books  the  day  after  their  appli- 
cation, to  take  to  their  homes.  German  is  badly  spoken  by  the 
common  people  of  Berlin  ;  the  educated  classes  in  society  speak 
the  language  purely. 

You  are  aware  that  for  many  years  I  have  not  passed  a  winter 
in  a  northern  latitude,  and  notwithstanding  that  the  present  is 
considered  a  rigorous  one,  it  is  not  so  cold  as  we  have  it  at 
home ;  still  I  have  felt  it  sensibly,  and  suffered  while  exposed 
out  of  doors.  Having  procured  good  quarters  in  a  central  posi- 
tion, in  the  vicinity  of  churches,  universities,  the  museum,  opera- 
house,  reading-rooms,  with  a  southern  exposure,  I  should  not 
say  that  Berlin  life  is  disagreeable,  notwithstanding  my  occa- 
sional longing  for  the  balmy  temperature  and  ripe  fruits  of  a 
West  Indian  climate.  The  heating  apparatus  is  called  "  Ofen  ;" 
I  have  two  of  them  in  my  apartments.  They  stand  like  monu- 
ments of  white  porcelain  in  the  corner  of  the  room,  eight  feet 
in  height,  four  feet  wide,  and  two  feet  deep  ;  they  are  useful  and 
ornamental;  are  heated  morning  and  evening,  and  throw  out  an 
agreeable  and  uniform  heat,  without  any  of  the  noxious  vapors 
of  coal.  The  windows  are  double  sashed,  as  in  Russia,  and 
plants,  of  which  the  German  people  are  fond,  are  flourishing  in 
my  parlor. 


CYII. 

Prague,  Bohemia,  April  5,  1855. 

Since  my  last  from  Berlin,  I  have  revisited  Dresden,  the 
capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Saxony,  and  am  now  again  in  the 
old  city  of  Prague,  the  former  residence  of  the  Bohemian 
kings. 

While  in  Berlin,  our  minister  addressed  a  note  to  Baron 
Humboldt,  the  world-renowned  traveller,  desiring  an  appoint- 
ment, at  his  convenience,  to  present  an  American  of  some  expe- 
rience,  which    note   was    promptly   responded   to.     We   were 


408  ALEXANDER  VON  HUMBOLDT. 

cordially  received,  and  passed  an  hour  very  delightfully  in  the 
society  of  this  venerable  old  gentleman,  now  eighty-five  years 
of  age,  surrounded  by  books,  charts,  and  a  little  museum  of  his 
own  collection. 

The  noble  old  man  is  still  active,  and  fully  retains  his  memory; 
he  speaks  fluently  the  English,  French,  and  Spanish  languages. 
He  inquired  ardently  about  countries  it  had  fallen  to  my  lot  to 
visit,  which  he  had  not  seen,  and  expressed  regret  at  my  early 
departure,  which  prevented  further  civilities  on  his  part. 

He  is  a  great  favorite  with  the  king,  and  is  of  course  a  royal- 
ist ;  but  he  has  much  sympathy  for  our  country,  and  regrets  the 
late  filibustering  movements  for  the  unlawful  seizure  of  our 
neighbor's  possessions. 

Dresden  is  noted  for  having  the  finest  collection  of  paintings 
north  of  the  Alps,  the  work  of  three  hundred  and  thirty-four 
masters ;  the  masterpiece  is  Raphael's  Madonna.  A  number  of 
years  had  elapsed  since  I  had  strolled  through  these  galleries, 
containing  upwards  of  two  thousand  pictures,  and  I  saw  them 
with  renewed  pleasure. 

Dresden  is  also  noted  in  Germany  for  its  musical  associations. 
Madame  Goldschmidt,  formerly  Jenny  Lind,  has  made  it  her 
residence.  As  I  had  made  her  acquaintance  through  her 
countrywoman.  Miss  Fredrika  Bremer,  in  the  Havana,  polite- 
ness induced  me  to  pay  my  respects ;  she  was  absent  on  a  tour 
to  Holland. 

From  Dresden  to  Bodenback,  the  Austrian  frontier,  is  two 
hours'  ride  by  railway,  with  a  delay  of  an  hour  when  the  pass- 
ports are  demanded,  certificates  given,  examined,  and  then 
exchanged,  and  the  luggage  changed. 

The  railways  in  north  Germany  belong  in  part  to  the  difierent 
governments,  and  in  part  to  incorporated  companies.  Here  the 
cars  are  differently  constructed,  being  larger  and  capable  of  con- 
taining more  persons,  resembling  somewhat  the  American ; 
while  in  most  parts  of  Europe  they  are  like  the  English  ones, 
with  separate  apartments,  of  coach-form,  for  eight  passengers. 

The  Austrian  custom-houses  and  police  are  extremely  rigid, 
and  they  keep,  I  am  informed,  a  sharp  eye  upon  Americans 
since  the  affair  of  Kosta.  Perhaps  the  warm  reception  of  Kos- 
suth in  our  country,  and  the  late  European  Congress  of  American 
Ministers,  has  had  its  influence. 


THE   CUSTOM-HOUSE.  i09 

In  order  to  show  you  the  smallness  of  the  custom-house  here, 
I  will  state  that  I  was  detained  a  full  half  hour  in  the  payment 
of  duty  upon  twenty-one  cigars,  which,  with  the  official  stamp, 
were  taxed  at  thirty  kreutzers,  of  which  the  officers  retain  one- 
third.  I  told  them  the  document  was  worth  the  money,  as  an 
evidence  of  pitiful  meanness,  which  I  had  found  in  no  other 
part  of  Europe.  On  a  former  occasion,  in  entering  Vienna,  my 
travelling  companion  had  two  sealed  and  fifteen  open  letters  of 
recommendation  seized,  which  were  addressed  to  different  parts 
of  Europe.  The  next  day  he  was  cited  to  the  custom-house,  and 
found  two  sheets  of  foolscap  paper  written  over,  and  a  fine  of 
twenty  florins  imposed,  which  he  resisted,  as  he  spoke  German, 
and  threatened  to  apply  to  our  Minister,  when  he  escaped  with 
the  charge  of  five  florins  upon  the  sealed  letters. 

On  entering  my  room  here,  I  was  immediately  furnished  with 
a  printed  sheet,  to  fill  up  for  the  police,  with  my  name,  birth- 
place, occupation,  married  or  single,  age,  where  now  from,  time 
of  stay,  religion,  &c. 

The  language  of  the  Bohemians  is  unintelligible  to  the  Ger- 
mans ;  and  I  am  assured  that  there  are  native  born  persons  here, 
among  the  lower  classes,  who  cannot  make  the  slightest  commu- 
nication in  the  German  tongue.  The  names  of  the  streets,  and 
signs,  are  in  both  languages. 

The  strength  of  Austria,  which  contains  a  population  of  seven 
millions  of  Germans  against  twenty -nine  millions  of  the  different 
races,  consists  in  the  variety  of  languages  and  religions,  as  is  the 
case  with  the  British  East  India  Company,  through  the  jealousy 
and  religious  feuds  of  Hindoo,  Budhist,  Parsee,  and  other  castes. 

I  am  told  that  throughout  the  Austrian  domain  as  many  as 
eighteen  languages  and  dialects  are  spoken. 

The  Jewish  population  is  some  twelve  thousand ;  it  occupies 
a  certain  portion  of  the  city,  formerly  inclosed  and  locked  at 
night,  though  now  all  the  barriers  are  removed.  Their  old  syna- 
gogue and  churchyard  are  curious ;  the  former  is  the  most 
antique  in  Europe,  being  considered  one  thousand  years  old. 
Its  walls  are  dark  and  dusky  as  those  of  a  prison,  and  for  cen- 
turies have  remained  unrenovated.  Here  is  suspended  a  banner, 
presented  by  royalty,  some  five  hundred  years  since.  The  laws 
of  Moses,  written  upon  rolls  of  parchment,  in  the  Hebrew 
tongue,  and  many  other  curious  relics,  are  exhibited. 


410  THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  ST.  STEPHEN. 

The  new  edifice  is  a  pretty  building,  and  wlien  illuminated  at 
night,  in  its  peculiar  style,  has  a  handsome  effect. 

As  I  am  just  departing  for  Vienna,  I  shall  be  there  in  time 
for  the  jDrominent  ceremonies  in  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Stephen. 


CVIII. 

Vienna,  Austria,  April  26,  1855. 

A  RIDE  of  eighteen  hours  by  rail  from  Prague,  the  Bohemian 
capital,  brought  me  to  Vienna,  the  imperial  city  of  Austria, 
passing  through  Brunn,  a  town  of  some  importance,  leaving 
Austerlitz  and  its  battle  ground  on  the  left.  A  former  visit  to 
the  places  named,  taking  Iglau  and  Czaslau  en  route  to  Prague, 
over  much  tedious  and  uninteresting  country,  occupied  five 
days;  but  by  the  aid  of  the  iron  horse  the  journey  is  now 
accomjolished  in  the  time  mentioned.  I  find  the  old  city  quite 
unchanged ;  so  unlike  many  of  our  American  cities,  where,  on 
a  return  visit,  after  a  few  years'  absence,  one  can  scarcely  recog- 
nise the  localities  formerly  familiar  to  the  eye. 

I  arrived  here  in  time  for  the  festivals,  at  the  close  of  the  Holy 
Week,  and  found  the  old  Cathedral  of  St.  Stephen's  filled  with 
the  multitude  as  I  had  last  seen  it  on  the  occasion  of  the  annual 
departure  of  the  devotees  or  pilgrims  to  the  mountain  chapel  of 
Maria  Zell.  It  seemed  that  only  a  brief  interval  had  elapsed ; 
but  hundreds  of  those  whom  I  then  saw  have  probably  made  the 
pilgrimage  from  which  there  is  no  return,  while  I  have  been 
permitted,  during  the  lapse  of  fourteen  years,  to  pass  three 
similar  annual  festivals  under  Popes  Gregory  and  Pius,  in 
Rome ;  another  at  the  tomb  of  our  Saviour,  in  Jerusalem  ;  one 
in  Murcia,  in  Catholic  Spain,  and  two  in  Havana.  The  altars 
here,  bedecked  with  natural  j)lants  and  flowers,  reminded  me  of 
a  much  greater  horticultural  display  on  a  similar  occasion  in 
Lima. 

The  new  chapel  has  been  erected  in  commemoration  of  the 
preservation  of  the  young  Emperor  from  the  hands  of  an  assassin ; 
and,  on  the  anniversary  of  his  marriage,  about  a  year  since,  a 
brilliant  mass  was  performed  in  presence  of  the  imperial  fomily. 
Notwithstanding  the  attempt  upon  his  life,  he  seems  to  have  full 
confidence  in  the  loyalty  of  his  people.     I  met  him  recently 


DIFFERENT   RACES.  411 

with  an  aide-de-camp  only,  walking  in  the  vicinity  of  the  palace, 
and  we  saluted  each  other  politely.  I  met  the  mother  of  the 
emperor  in  the  palace  garden,  in  like  manner,  with  a  lady  of  the 
court  and  a  servant,  and  she  also  responded  politely  to  my 
civilities. 

The  empress,  who  is  of  the  House  of  Bavaria,  appears  youth- 
ful, and  rather  pretty.  She  is  not  yet  nineteen  years  of  age, 
and  is  much  esteemed  by  the  public  for  her  simplicity  of  manner. 

On  the  occasion  of  the  recent  birth  of  a  princess  an  amnesty 
was  granted  to  many  prisoners. 

The  Prater,  with  its  dense  forestry,  is  the  grand  lounge,  where 
thousands  may  be  seen  on  a  fine  day,  and  occasionally  the  cortege 
of  the  Imperial  family. 

The  trees  are  now  in  bloom,  and  the  country  wears  a  pretty 
appearance. 

The  police  are  very  rigid ;  I  found  m}- self  closely  catechised 
at  the  bureau,  when  I  presented  myself  for  an  Aufenthalt's  Karte, 
or  permit  to  remain  longer  than  six  days. 

The  language  of  the  people  is  corrupt  German,  but  the 
educated  classes  speak  the  language  in  its  purity.  The  many 
tongues  here  spoken  make  it  a  sort  of  Babel. 

The  Slavonians,  who  number  sixteen  millions,  extending 
throughout  Bohemia,  Illyria,  and  Dalmatia,  and  whose  language 
is  difficult,  seem  to  have  the  faculty  of  acquiring  other  languages ; 
they  are  of  the  Czeck  race,  one  of  the  three  families  Mech, 
Lech,  and  Czeck,  who  occupy  Poland  and  Eussia ;  and,  although 
they  are  remote  from  the  others,  they  understand  much  that  is 
said  in  conversation.  The  Hungarian  or  Magyar  language  has 
not  the  slightest  resemblance  to  the  Slavonic  or  German,  being 
an  eastern  or  Asiatic  language,  the  Magyars  having  migrated 
from  Asia  to  Hungary  about  nine  hundred  years  ago. 

There  is  a  vast  deal  to  be  seen  in  the  capital  of  Austria.  Its 
amusements  are  abundant.  The  Strauss  Band,  so  justly  cele- 
brated, gives  Sunday  and  holiday  concerts  in  the  Volks  or 
People's  Garden. 

Schiinbrunn,  the  Imperial  summer  palace  and  grounds,  is 
wnthin  a  few  miles  of  the  city. 

The  pretty  neighboring  village  of  Heitzing  is  overrun  in 
summer  by  denizens  of  the  city. 

The  immense  summer  palace  has  one  thousand  and  three 


412  LAXENBURG. 

hundred  rooms.  I  passed  through  fifty-two  of  the  principal 
apartments,  many  newly  furnished  with  elegance  and  taste,  and 
rich  in  historical  and  family  paintings,  reminiscences  of  the 
legions  of  Napoleon,  and  of  his  son,  the  young  Duke  of 
Reichstadt. 

The  park  contains  the  largest  menagerie  or  collection  of  wild 
animals,  and  the  best  exhibition  of  rare  birds  I  have  seen  in 
Europe,  the  present  emperor  having  a  fondness  for  natural 
history.  The  vast  inclosures,  of  some  acres,  are  of  a  circular 
form,  radiating  from  the  centre,  with  walls,  and  barriers,  and 
outbuildings  for  the  winter,  heated  to  an  African  temperature, 
for  the  giraffes  and  other  animals  that  require  it. 

The  glass  summer-houses,  resembling  military  barracks  in  size, 
contain  all  the  varieties  of  tropical  vegetation. 

Upon  the  summit  of  the  hill,  in  the  rear  of  the  Park,  stands 
the  Gloriette,  a  massive  stone  structure,  three  hundred  feet  long, 
and  sixty  feet  high,  with  columns ;  it  is  an  Observatory, 
whence  one  gets  a  good  view  of  Vienna  and  the  Danubian 
banks. 

A  favorite  excursion  is  by  rail  to  Laxenburg,  the  favorite 
summer  residence  of  the  young  Empress ;  she  manifests,  I  think, 
good  taste  in  her  selection,  nature  is  so  beautiful  here ;  and  shade 
and  retirement  must  be  a  great  relief  after  the  blaze  and  excite- 
ment of  court  life,  particularly  for  one  who  is  remarkable  for  her 
quiet  primitive  manner,  and  her  fondness  for  fishing,  so  my 
guide  informed  me;  her  liege  lord's  passion  is  for  the  chase, 
which  brings  him  out  of  his  bed  at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

The  art  of  man  has  produced  upon  the  level  surface  of  the 
Park,  elevated  mounds  and  islands,  from  the  earth  thrown  out  to 
form  ponds  for  fishing  and  sailing,  in  which  ponds  scores  of  neatly 
painted  boats  are  seen ;  grottoes  are  formed  from  heavy  blocks 
of  stone  brought  from  the  mountain  quarries.  Upon  a  small 
island,  called  Franzenburg,  the  miniature  Ritterburg  Castle  is  a 
perfect  gem,  with  its  castellated  walls  and  towers ;  it  has  several 
rooms  adorned  with  horse  and  war  armor,  and  all  the  antique 
weapons  of  war  artistically  arranged ;  coats  of  mail,  and  lances 
used  in  tournaments,  etc. ;  the  sculptured  oak-ceilings,  three 
hundred  or  four  hundred  years  old,  the  paintings,  furniture, 
decorations,  marble  statues  and  portraits  of  the  Hapsburg  family, 
illuminated  glass  windows,  cabinets  of  vases,  relics  of  gold,  silver 


THE    PRATER.  413 

and  precious  stones,  form  quite  a  museum,  and  give  a  correct 
idea  of  the  grandeur  and  magnificence  of  the  original. 

The  Viennese  have  their  Baden,  a  place  of  summer  resort  for 
invalids,  and  noted  for  its  beautiful  mountain  scenery,  and  its 
valley,  called  Helenenthal ;  but  it  cannot  be  compared  favorably 
with  the  celebrated  Baden-Baden  in  any  particular,  aside  from 
its  sulphur  waters,  which  resemble  those  of  Wiesbaden  in  smell 
and  flavor.  It  lies  twenty  miles  from  Vienna  by  rail,  and  is 
well  worth  a  visit. 

The  great  gala-day  of  the  year  is  the  1st  of  May,  when  nobility 
and  plebeians,  great  and  small,  resort  to  the  Prater,  and  is  looked 
forward  to  as  the  chief  event  of  the  season. 

A  sojourn  of  nearly  a  month  will  give  me  an  opportunity  of 
revisiting  much  that  I  had  seen  formerly,  and  acquiring  a  better 
idea  of  the  peculiarities  of  the  different  races  of  mankind. 


CIX. 

Pesth,  Hungary,  May  9,  1855. 

In  my  last,  from  Vienna,  I  remarked  that  I  should  remain 
over  the  1st  of  May  jubilee,  when  all  classes  feel  it  incumbent 
on  them  to  hail  the  return  of  springtime  and  flowers — and  to 
sip  their  coffee,  drink  their  beer,  and  enjoy  themselves  accord- 
ing to  their  means. 

The  long  shady  avenues  of  the  Prater  are  crowded  with 
observers,  regarding  the  double  procession,  up  and  down,  of 
closely  hemmed  carriages,  with  liveried  footmen,  filled  with  the 
beauty  and  wealth  of  the  capital,  following  in  the  wake  of  the 
many  gilded  and  brilliant  court  equipages  containing  the 
imperial  family  and  ladies  of  honor,  foreign  ambassadors,  &c. 
Within  neat  inclosures,  in  summer  houses,  are  seen  the  nobility, 
dining  sumptuously,  as  Royalty  also  dines  here,  on  the  occasion. 
But  what  is  more  novel,  is  the  Wurstel  Prater,  on  another 
avenue,  and  its  novel  surroundings.  Here  are  found  Punch 
and  Judy,  or  Marionettes,  flying  horses,  miniature  railroads, 
with  weighing  machines,  theatres,  boat  and  revolving  swings, 
panoramas,  bands  of  music,  and  scores  of  recreations  for  the 
masses,  mostly  permanent  establishments  for  the  summer,  coffee- 
houses, with  thousands  of  tables  under  the  trees;  and  bread  and 


414  PRESBURG. 

cheese,  sausages,  coffee,  and  light  beer,  disappear  in  marvellous 
quantities,  at  short  notice,  and,  strange  to  say,  in  that  vast 
multitude,  I  only  saw  one  partially  drunken  man,  a  soldier. 
No  fighting,  no  quarrelling,  all  harmony,  all  were  in  pursuit 
of  rational  amusement,  rich  and  poor,  men,  women,  and  children. 

The  Imperial  Steamship  Company  employ  their  steamers  upon 
the  Danube,  the  Save,  the  Drave,  and  Theiss,  and  terminate 
their  line  at  Galatz,  where  the  Lloyd  line  for  Constantinople 
connects.  The  steamers  are  small,  but  much  improved  since 
I  was  last  in  this  country,  being  constructed  after  American 
designs. 

From  Vienna  to  Presbiirg,  the  banks  of  the  river  are  low, 
with  nothing  of  interest,  except  the  battle-ground  of  Wagram. 
Presburg  is  prettily  situated,  with  delightful  environs.  A 
bridge  of  boats  crosses  the  river  here ;  I  counted  twenty -nine 
boats  in  passing  over  to  the  forest  promenade,  which  is  much 
resorted  to,  and  contains  a  summer  theatre  and  refreshment 
houses.  The  town  has  forty-two  thousand  inhabitants.  The 
Cathedral,  built  in  the  year  1090,  was  the  crowning  place  of  the 
Hungarian  kings;  it  has  some  remarkable  statuary  in  metal. 
The  festival  of  the  recently  declared  dogma,  by  the  Pope, 
of  the  immaculate  conception  of  the  Virgin,  took  place  while  I 
was  there — which  brought  out  the  ladies  in  large  numbers,  and 
Hungary  may  boast  of  the  beauty  of  her  daughters.  Upon  the 
summit  of  the  hill  overlooking  the  town,  still  stand  the  royal 
castle  walls,  burnt  in  1812,  and  from  which  a  magnificent  view 
of  the  city  and  Danube  is  obtained. 

Descending  from  Presburg,  the  river  becomes  wider ;  at  this 
place  is  the  celebrated  chain  bridge,  finished  in  1849,  and  one 
of  the  wonders  of  the  age ;  it  is  fifteen  hundred  feet  across. 

Komorn,  en  route  between  the  two  cities  named,  has  seventeen 
thousand  inhabitants,  and  possesses  one  of  the  strongest  forti- 
fications in  Europe.  In  the  revolution  of  1849,  the  Hungarians 
held  out  for  a  long  time,  and  finally  gave  it  up  voluntarily. 

Gran,  lying  below,  has  an  equal  population,  and  is  the 
residence  of  the  Primate  of  Hungary,  Cardinal  Rudnay,  who 
has  erected  a  cathedral,  which  is  not  yet  finished.  From  this 
place  the  steamer  runs  between  porphyry  rocky  shores,  whose 
scenery  resembles  that  of  Saxon  Switzerland.  One  of  the 
striking  features   of  the  river  scenery  is  the  thousands  of  watei 


OFFEN.  415 

mills  built  in  boat-forin,  and  occupied,  after  the  ice  disappears, 
for  the  grinding  of  the  products  of  the  countr}'.  Hungary  is 
rich  in  wine,  wheat,  horses,  horned  cattle,  and  sheep.  The 
quantity  of  wool  produced  is  enormous — Prince  Esterhazy's 
estates  counting  their  thousands  of  shepherds. 

When  I  travelled  through  this  country  before  a  railroad  was 
suggested,  it  was  by  "  Bauer  "  or  Farmer's  Post,  in  a  rude  wagon, 
upon  haj^  seats,  with  four  raw-boned  nags  upon  the  full  gallop. 
I  had  an  opportunity  then  of  judging  of  the  dependent  condi- 
tion of  the  serfs.  Since  that  time  they  have  been  made  free  by 
the  Ex-Emperor,  their  freedom  growing  out  of  the  revolution. 

I  counted  yesterday  a  procession  of  three  hundred  and  thirty- 
five  men  and  women  coming  over  the  bridge,  with  banners 
flying,  and  crucifixes  in  the  hands  of  the  priests,  after  a  four 
days'  pilgrimage  to  Mount  Calvary,  which  I  had  seen  fi'om  the 
steamer  ;  the  chapel  is  on  the  summit  of  a  hill,  with  different  sta- 
tions in  ascending.  They  came  in  singing,  and  looked  pretty 
well  jaded  out.  The  populace  stood  along  the  sidewalk,  in 
masses,  to  witness  the  return ;  they  were  mostly  of  the  lower 
classes,  and  poorly  clad. 

Oflfen,  opposite  this  place,  has  a  population  of  thirty -two  thou- 
sand. It  was  in  possession  of  the  Turks  for  one  hundred  and 
fifty  years,  at  different  times,  and  in  1684  taken  from  them ;  but 
the  traces  of  its  possession  by  the  Musselmans  are  still  left,  parti- 
cularly in  its  baths,  which  remind  one  of  old  Stamboul,  from  the 
heavy  massive  work,  columns  and  domes;  among  the  number 
the  poor  people's  bath  costs  a  kreutzer  (three-quarters  of  a  cent). 
My  guide  led  me  through  the  dense  vapor  produced  by  the 
copious  supply  of  flowing  water  of  a  high  temperature,  and  I 
could  scarcely  discern  an  object ;  but  presently  figures  appear  to 
the  eye,  as  one  passes  through  the  mist:  there  sits  a  woman 
washing  her  clothes ;  another  washes  her  children ;  then  come 
men  and  boys,  old  and  young,  diseased  and  sound,  promiscu- 
ously thrown  together.  There  were  twenty-nine  in  all,  but  the 
bath  is  capable  of  containing  one  hundred  and  fifty. 

The  idea  is  certainly  repugnant,  and  discovers  a  low  state  of 
morals — the  blending  of  the  sexes  together  in  a  state  of  nature. 
With  the  perspiration  rolling  out  of  every  pore,  I  was  glad  to 
make  my  escape. 

An  excursion  to  the  Kaiser  Bad  (Emperor's  Bath),  a  few  miles 


416  AUSTRIAN   MONUMENT. 

by  steamer,  gives  an  opportunity  of  seeing  fashionable  invalids^ 
bathing  in,  and  drinking  the  waters. 

The  fortification  which  commands  the  summit  at  Oifen,  and 
from  which  Pesth  was  bombarded  during  the  Kossuth  war,  and 
which  contains  the  palaces  of  the  Palatine  and  castle  gardens,  is 
now  occupied  by  the  Erzherzog  Albrecht,  and  is  a  town  in 
itself;  and,  from  its  commanding  position,  one  has  a  fine  view 
of  the  country  villages  and  retreats  in  the  rear,  as  also  of  Pesth 
and  the  whole  surrounding  country.  Here  stands  a  new  monu- 
ment, erected  to  the  memory  of  General  Heutzi  and  Oberst 
Alnoch,  and  four  hundred  and  eighteen  other  Austrian  ofiicers 
and  soldiers,  who  lost  their  lives  in  defending  the  place  against 
the  Hungarians,  who  occupied  the  heights  in  the  neighborhood. 
Man}^  buildings  on  both  sides  of  the  river  still  retain  the  marks 
of  the  cannon  and  musket  balls,  and  many  are  entirely  destroyed, 
giving  an  idea  of  the  destruction  caused  by  the  revolution,  and 
of  the  ravages  of  war. 

In  Presburg,  the  Hungarian's  nationality  seems  to  be,  in  a 
measure,  absorbed  by  the  German's.  Here,  he  stands  out  more 
in  his  native  form.  The  shop  signs  are  chiefly  Hungarian,  and 
unintelligible  to  most  foreigners.  The  journals  are  in  both  lan- 
guages, German  and  Magyar.  The  ofiicers  and  troops  are  from 
other  parts  of  the  Austrian  provinces,  while  the  Hungarian  sol- 
diery are  sent  to  Vienna,  Lombardy,  and  other  points.  The 
language  is  unlike  all  the  other  living  languages  of  Europe, 
being  of  Oriental  origin,  and  difiicult  to  acquire. 


ex. 

Saltzbtjrg,  Austria,  May  25,  1855. 
From  Pesth  I  returned  to  Vienna,  and  made  my  way  up  the 
Danube  to  Linz,  a  sail  of  twenty-four  hours,  which  would  be 
lessened  did  they  not  lie  by  at  night  for  the  Strudel,  where  the 
river,  breaking  through  its  rocky  barriers,  divides  into  three 
parts.  The  most  navigable  portion  is  through  the  whirlpool,  on 
approaching  which  a  cannon  is  fired,  as  only  one  vessel  at  a 
time  can  pass  this  narrow  point,  which  is  from  thirty  to  forty 
feet,  where  the  fall  is  three  feet  in  the  distance  of  five  hundred 
feet.     Up  to  the  last  century,  vessels  and  crews  were  frequently 


BENEDICTINE   ABBEY.  417 

lost,  but  by  the  blasting  of  rocks,  it  is  no  longer  hazardous,  and 
bears  no  comparison  to  the  running  of  the  rapids  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence. 

From  Nussdorf,  the  starting-point  on  the  main  branch  of  the 
Danube,  one  hour's  ride  from  Vienna,  as  the  steamer  advances, 
leaving  the  already  beautiful  environs  for  which  the  latter  city 
is  noted,  the  scenery  becomes  bolder,  the  stream  is  divided  by 
islands,  and,  as  the  Germans  estimate,  one  quarter  of  an  hour 
across.  As  we  proceed,  an  old  fort  presents  itself,  with  its  asso- 
ciations in  the  thirty  years'  war ;  the  hill  sides  are  covered  with 
green  leaves  of  the  grape  vines.  Then  we  land  at  Tulm,  one  of 
the  oldest  cities  on  the  Danube.  Here  Eudolph  of  Hapsburg 
figured  in  1278 ;  and  the  plain  in  the  environs  contained  the 
sixty  thousand  men,  in  1683,  who  rescued  Vienna  from  the 
Turks.  Further  on  at  Gottweih,  is  a  Benedictine  Convent, 
founded  in  1072,  standing  seven  hundred  feet  high.  Still 
advancing,  new  objects  of  interest  are  coming  forward,  comparing 
favorably  with  the  Khine  travel.  We  landed  the  prelate  of  the 
Benedictine  Abbey  at  Melk,  a  market  town  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain.  This  immense  edifice,  looking  more  like  a  huge 
palace  than  a  cloister,  built  between  1702  and  1736,  stands  one 
hundred  and  eighty  feet  high,  on  a  precipice  hanging  upon  the 
river  bank.  It  has  been  frequently  besieged,  but  is  defended 
with  bastions  and  arms  which  Napoleon,  after  the  battle  of 
Asperne,  established  in  it  from  its  important  position,  lying  on 
the  highway  of  the  army  to  Vienna.  He  levied  heavy  contri- 
butions upon  the  monks'  wine  cellars  for  the  use  of  the  troops. 

As  we  mount  the  stream,  we  see  scores  of  boats,  containing 
from  fifty  to  eighty  persons,  with  flags  flying,  and  singing  lustily, 
on  their  pilgrimage  tour  to  Maria  Tafel,  which  upwards  of  one 
hundred  thousand  visit  annually. 

At  one  of  those  small  villages  we  landed  a  certain  Baron  B. 
and  his  family.  He  is  a  Minister  in  Vienna  for  one  of  the  Ger- 
man States,  and  was  taking  his  family  for  the  summer  to  his 
chateau,  with  parks  and  grounds  of  four  thousand  acres  attached. 

His  family  consisted  of  the  lady,  two  daughters,  and  three 
sons,  with  a  French  governess  and  male  preceptor,  and  an  equal 
number  of  servants.  I  had  made  their  acquaintance  through  a 
friend,  and  found  them  an  excellent  specimen  of  the  nobility  of 
the  land.     The  young  ladies  were  nearly  as  familiar  with  the 

27 


418  Lixz. 

French  and  English  languages  as  with  their  mother  tongue.  As 
we  were  detained  for  coaling  the  steamer,  I  was  invited  to  visit 
the  chateau,  on  shore.  Cannons  were  fired  at  their  arrival,  and 
the  peasantry  flocked  down  to  salute  the  return  of  the  party.  It 
was  annoying  and  mortifying,  as  the  weak-sighted  old  women 
and  children  kissed  my  hands,  mistaking  a  simple  American  for 
an  Austrian  Baron,  as  I  escorted  the  ladies  to  the  house. 

The  general  tourist,  of  course,  comes  in  contact  with  all  classes 
of  society,  and  necessarily  has  an  opportunity  of  studying  cha- 
racter. It  was  my  fate  tins  trip  to  fall  in  mostly  with  the  upper 
classes.  No  sooner  had  we  left  the  party  named,  than  a  quiet 
young  gentleman,  a  Russian,  approached  me,  and  made  some 
inquiries  about  my  route,  and  I  found  he  was  disposed  to  join 
me  in  my  excursions.  When  cards  were  exchanged,  the  follow- 
ing day,  at  Linz,  I  found  that  another  Baron  was  announced, 
which  did  not  prevent  the  Republican  and  the  Autocrat  going 
along  harmoniously  together,  particularly  as  the  former  had  cir- 
culated more  generally  than  the  latter.  He  is  still  with  me,  and 
disposed  to  continue  to  Munich. 

Linz  is  the  last  town  of  importance  on  the  Danube  belonging 
to  Austria.  It  was  there  that  I  abandoned  the  river  in  order  to 
make  the  most  interesting  tour  through  this  portion  of  the 
Empire.  Linz  has  thirty  thousand  inhabitants ;  the  suburbs  are 
very  pretty;  the  laying  over  of  passengers,  and  exchange  of 
steamers,  with  its  internal  trade,  give  it  some  advantages.  A 
festival  day  was  occupied  here  in  surveying  the  town  and  its 
environs,  and  in  looking  at  the  interesting  groups  of  j)easantry, 
in  peculiar  costume,  in  and  about  the  churches. 

The  second  Eisenbahn  on  the  continent,  with  a  flat  rail,  is  here ; 
it  was  moved  by  horse  power,  until  this  spring.  A  small 
locomotive  was  put  on  and  run  from  Gmunden  Lake,  via  Wells 
and  Lambach,  where  a  tiny  little  steamer  makes  the  trip  in  an 
hour,  through  most  romantic  and  enchanting  scenery. 

It  was  a  reminiscence  of  the  early  days  of  railway  travel ;  the 
venerable  coach  cars  with  small,  low  wheels ;  the  narrow  bed 
and  strap  rails;  the  snail  pace  movement,  avoiding  the  danger 
of  what  we  formerly  called  snake  heads,  from  the  breaking 
of  the  thin  rail,  and  its  flying  through  the  body  of  the  carriage. 

Omnibuses  run  from  the  head  of  the  Lake  to  Ischel,  a 
celebrated  Austrian  watering-place  of  two  thousand  inhabitants^ 


I 

SALTZBURG.  419 

the  battling  resort  of  tlie  Emperor,  who  is  now  erecting  a  new 
summer  residence. 

The  valley  and  mountain  scenery  of  the  Salz-Kammergut, 
and  the  position  of  this  place,  thirteen  thousand  five  hundred 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  can  scarcely  be  described  for 
their  beauty.  The  Government  Salt  Works  here  are  on  a 
stupendous  scale,  and  are  a  source  of  great  revenue. 

The  governments  derive  large  sums  from  the  sale  of  wood, 
which  is  seen  piled  by  thousands  of  cords  upon  the  banks  of  the 
Traum  and  Ischel  streams,  and  the  quantities  dashing  down  the 
mountain  torrents  from  the  melting  of  the  snows,  afford  a 
curious  spectacle.  All  possible  contrivances,  through  barriers, 
to  unite  the  floating  masses  and  aqueducts  to  bring  the  required 
quantities  together,  for  piling  and  drying,  before  they  are  sent 
to  navigable  water  for  sale,  or  for  the  boiling  of  the  salt  flowing 
through  pipes  from  the  bowels  of  the  mountains,  are  seen. 

The  town  from  which  I  write  has  a  population  of  less  than 
twenty  thousand ;  it  is  in  a  most  romantic  position,  and  is  full 
of  interest.  The  birth-place  of  Mozart,  with  a  monument  to 
his  memory,  an  immense  cathedral  of  free-stone  and  marble, 
and  the  fortification  upon  the  summit  of  Monchsberg,  make  a 
lovely  picture  in  the  distance.  The  rock  was  tunnelled  between 
1763  and  '67  by  Archbishop  Sigismund  III.,  four  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  through,  twenty-two  feet  high,  and  twenty-two  feet 
wide ;  it  forms  one  of  the  entrances  to  the  city,  and  resembles 
somewhat  the  grotto  of  Posilippo,  near  Naples. 

An  excursion  for  a  day  to  Konigsee,  an  inclosed  lake,  with  its 
occasional  precipitate  rocky  walls,  and  water  six  hundred  feet 
deep,  with  its  echoes  and  the  rumbling  sound  of  the  avalanches 
from  the  towering  snowy  mountains,  from  seven  to  eight 
thousand  feet  high,  rowed  in  flat  bottomed  skiffs  by  two  lusty 
women  with  men's  black  hats,  is  something  novel,  to  say 
the  least.  The  Hunting  Chateau,  the  Ice  Chapel,  and  the 
Cataract,  come  in  for  a  part  of  the  interest,  and  one  is  rejoiced 
to  get  back  to  the  little  hotel  of  embarkation  with  an  appetite  for 
Lachsforellen,  or  salmon  trout,  and  the  wild  game  of  the  country. 

We  returned  by  Bechtesgaden,  a  small  town,  occupying 
a  high  picturesque  position,  and  celebrated  for  wood,  horn, 
and  ivory  cut  work,  similar  to  the  Swiss  ware.  The  population 
are  in  part  employed  in  this  business;  their  manufactures  find  a 


420  THE   DURENBUEG. 

market  abroad,  and  were  it  not  for  the  continual  annoyance  of 
custom-houses  and  travel,  one  would  be  tempted  to  fill  his  trunk 
and  carpet-bag  with  their  pretty  trifles. 

The  Salt  Works  at  Ilallein,  about  seven  miles  from  here, 
which  I  have  just  visited,  are  of  an  entirely  different  character 
from  those  of  Cracow.  Instead  of  the  rock  salt  being  exca- 
vated from  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  the  mountains  are  filled 
with  the  saline  material,  which  is  extracted  by  means  of  fresh 
water  introduced  into  the  pits,  and  then  conveyed  through 
wooden  logs  to  the  two  salt  establishments  in  the  valley  below. 

The  ascent  to  the  summit  of  the  Durenburg,  from  the  town, 
is  about  two  and  a  half  miles  ;  it  is  rather  tiresome  to  climb,  but 
the  constant  changing  views  relieve  one  from  the  fatigue. 
When  we  arrived  at  the  house  where  the  descent  begins,  we 
rested  ourselves,  before  entering,  in  a  cooler  atmosphere ;  and 
giving  our  hats  and  superfluous  garments  to  our  valet,  with 
orders  to  meet  us  at  the  place  of  egress  half  way  down  the  moun- 
tain side,  we  put  ourselves  in  miner's  costume,  with  a  cap  and 
heavy  buck-skin  gloves,  to  relieve  the  friction  of  the  cables  or 
ropes,  in  sliding  down  the  rollers. 

Preceded  by  our  Steiger,  my  Eussian  companion  and  myself, 
flambeaux  in  hand,  entered  the  gallery  of  Obersteinberg,  and 
passed  two  thousand  two  hundred  and  twenty-eight  feet  to  the 
first  Eollen,  or  inclined  plane  of  forty  degrees.  The  gallery 
road  bed  is  of  plank,  with  wood  rails  on  each  side  for  the  truck 
carts  to  remove  the  sand,  after  the  salt  is  extracted,  and  for  the 
bringing  in  of  materials  to  support  the  sides  and  roofs  of  these 
narrow  passages.  Branch  avenues,  right  and  left,  extend  in 
different  directions  in  the  mountain.  The  Eollen  leads  from 
story  to  story,  as  we  descend  (there  are  five  stories  in  all),  until 
we  find  ourselves  one  thousand  five  hundred  feet  below.  They 
are  formed  of  two  parallel  ranges  of  round  slippery  beams, 
joined  at  the  end,  and  connecting  from  top  to  bottom.  One 
places  himself  behind  the  miner-guide,  who  carries  the  torch,  sit- 
ting astride  with  one  thigh  resting  on  a  cable  rope,  grasping  the 
same  with  the  right  hand,  which  serves  to  moderate  the  speed, 
and  to  establish  his  position,  and  then  with  locomotive  motion 
finds  himself  two  hundred  and  forty  feet  below  in  short  notice. 
As  we  pass  through  the  different  passages,  a  fairy  scene  suddenly 
presented  itself:  a  hundred  lights  are  reflected  in  the  splendid 


MUNICH.  421 

sheet  of  water,  three  hundred  feet  long,  and  one  hundred  and 
eighty  feet  wide,  and  our  ferry  boat,  by  means  of  a  rope  and  pul- 
ley, is  drawn  down  to  the  opposite  side,  when  we  continue  our 
march. 

This  is  one  of  twenty-two  similar  lakes,  where  fresh  water  is 
introduced,  and  the  saline  properties  for  a  month  absorbed,  when 
it  runs  to  the  salt  houses  for  the  process  of  boiling  and  crystalliz- 
ing. The  mines  date  from  the  fifteenth  century.  The  quantity 
annually  extracted  is  four  hundred  thousand  centners,  of  one  hun- 
dred pounds  each  ;  it  may  be  increased  if  needed.  In  1761  the 
mines  fell  in,  and  fossil  salt  was  discovered.  A  museum,  or  col- 
lection of  specimens,  with  monuments  to  the  memories  of  the 
founders  and  Emperors,  are  within  these  deep  recesses. 

The  egress  from  the  mine  below  is  through  a  narrow,  calca- 
reous stone  arch,  two  and  a  half  feet  wide,  six  feet  high,  and  six 
thousand  feet  long,  commenced  in  1541,  and  finished  in  forty- 
two  years.  One  comes  out  seated  astride  a  car  running  upon  a 
slanting  rail  bed,  drawn  by  one  boy,  and  pushed  by  a  second,  at 
full  trot.  When  the  distance  is  half  accomplished,  the  light 
through  the  opening  looks  like  a  brilliant  star  in  the  distance, 
and  one  hails  with  pleasure  the  cheering  blaze  of  day. 


ex.* 

Ratisbon,  Bavaria,  June  8,  1855. 

From  Saltzburg,  near  the  Austrian  frontier,  I  proceeded  by 
mail  coach  eighty-five  miles,  through  an  interesting  coun- 
try, to  Munich,  formerly  described,  the  Bavarian  Capital, 
deservedly  renowned  among  the  lovers  of  the  fine  arts,  as  the 
modern  Athens  of  Europe,  and  celebrated  throughout  the 
Fatherland  for  its  Bayerisch  beer,  being  to  Germany  what  Lon- 
don is  to  England,  for  its  extensive  manufacture  of  that  beve- 
rage. 

The  museum  and  studio  of  Schwanthaler,  the  celebrated  Ger- 
man sculptor,  is  a  source  of  great  interest,  and  reminded  me  of 
Thorwaldsen's  collection  at  Copenhagen. 

Munich  is  celebrated  for  its  Erzgiesserei,  or  Bronze  Foundry, 
and  for  its  glass  paintings ;  the  latter  work  is  finely  executed, 
and  the  new  church  windows  which  display  it  are  strikingly 


422  NYMPHENBURG. 

beautiful.  The  colossal  bronze  statue  of  Bavaria,  a  female  figure 
of  victory,  with  a  huge  lion  reposing  by  its  side,  was  not  com- 
plete when  I  saw  it  in  1848,  but  is  now  upon  an  eminence  com- 
manding the  Theresien  Meadows,  standing  upon  a  pedestal  of 
thirty  feet,  which  gives  it  a  height  of  eighty-four  feet.  It  weighs 
one  hundred  and  fifteen  tons.  A  staircase  of  sixtj^-six  stone 
and  sixty-five  iron  steps  leads  one  into  the  head,  where  two 
benches  of  cast  metal  accommodate  twelve  persons ;  it  is  a  rather 
warm  berth  at  this  season  of  the  year.  I  found  the  great  eques- 
trian statue  of  Washington,  for  the  capitol  at  Richmond,  Virgi- 
nia, in  process  of  construction  at  the  foundry ;  it  will  probably 
require  considerable  time  for  its  execution. 

A  few  miles  from  the  city  one  relieves  the  eyes,  and  escapes 
picture  galleries,  in  the  shady  avenues  of  the  royal  summer  resi- 
dence at  Nymphenburg,  with  its  fountains  ninety  feet  in  height, 
and  its  beautiful  sheets  of  water,  winding  through  this  vast 
inclosure,  which  occupies  two  hours'  walk  in  the  circuit.  The 
Botanical  gardens  are  not  devoid  of  interest.  The  supply  of 
water  is  more  copious  than  in  any  royal  site  I  recollect  having 
seen  in  Europe,  except  the  Neapolitan  Caserta,  and  La  Granja, 
in  Spain.  The  deer  park,  in  the  vicinity,  is  also  a  pleasant  drive 
for  the  ladies  and  children,  who  occupy  themselves  in  embroi- 
dery, drinking  their  beer,  and  feeding  the  young  animals  out  of 
their  hands. 

In  less  than  two  hours,  one  rides  from  Munich  to  Augsburg, 
by  railroad. 

The  old  town  has  considerable  of  interest  in  its  churches, 
architecture,  monuments,  &c.  It  being  my  second  visit,  one  day 
at  Augsburg  sufficed,  as  I  was  eii  route  to  Ratisbon,  and  had  to 
make  the  circuit  by  railroad  to  Donauworth,  in  order  to  descend 
the  Danube.  A  little  iron  steamer,  eighty  feet  in  length,  and 
narrow  in  proportion,  with  a  tiny  cabin,  came  to  the  place  named 
as  the  head  of  steam  navigation,  with  a  small  party  of  first-class 
passengers.  We  darted  down  the  rapid  stream  at  a  lively  rate,  at 
times  walled  in  by  precipitous  limestone  rocks  ;  the  scenery  was 
highly  romantic  and  picturesque,  with  much  to  interest,  but 
compared  unfavorably  with  the  views  described  in  my  last,  from 
Yien^na  to  Linz.  We  landed  passengers  at  Menburg  and  Ingold- 
stadt,  important  towns,  and  in  eight  hours'  sail  found  ourselves 
at  this  place. 


RATISBON.  423 

As  I  have  formerly  remarked,  most  of  the  German  govern- 
ments have  different  weights,  coin,  measure,  and  regulations. 
One  day  one  has  fifty  pounds  luggage  free,  and  paper  money  in 
use ;  cross  the  boundary,  as  is  the  case  here,  no  baggage  is 
allowed ;  it  must  be  paid,  for  even  moderate  distances,  at  one 
cent  per  pound.  If  you  happen  not  to  have  changed  your 
money,  you  submit  to  a  heavy  discount.  My  Eussian  friend 
had  a  large  sum  of  Austrian  paper  florins  over,  and  lost  forty 
guldens  or  sixteen  dollars,  by  not  exchanging  as  I  advised  him, 
and  was  consoled  by  the  money  changer,  saying :  Mann  muss 
lehr  geld  zahkn.     One  must  pay  for  experience. 

Regensburg,  or  Ratisbon,  whence  I  w^'ite,  is  beautifully 
situated  upon  the  south  bank  of  the  Danube.  It  was  formerly 
the  seat  of  the  Imperial  Diet ;  it  has  a  population  of  only  twenty- 
four  thousand,  but  is  an  interesting  old  city,  with  enchanting 
shady  walks  surrounding  the  city,  giving  the  occupants  breath- 
ing room.  Sunday  being  Froknkichnamstag^  or  Corpus  Christi, 
the  service  in  the  old  cathedral  was  fully  attended.  This  vast 
Gothic  edifice,  built  in  the  year  1400,  was  crammed  with 
furniture,  offerings,  pictures,  and  relics,  which  destroyed  its 
beautiful  proportions,  until  King  Ludwig,  with  the  eye  of  an 
artist,  in  1888,  saw  its  deformity,  and  ordered  a  general 
sweeping  out,  and  renovated  its  magnificent  illuminated  glass 
windows,  representing  the  life  of  Christ  and  historical  Bible 
scenes. 

Strolling  from  one  church  to  another,  I  found  the  current 
setting  across  the  river  to  the  Dreifaltigheitsberge,  upon  the 
summit  of  which  is  a  pilgrimage  church  with  fourteen  stations 
and  monuments  on  the  ascent  indicating  the  bearing  of  the 
Cross,  and  sufferings  of  Christ,  up  to  the  Crucifixion.  So  I  fell 
in  with  the  train,  and  passed  over  the  old  stone  bridge,  one 
thousand  and  ninety-one  feet  long  and  twenty-three  feet  wide, 
placed  upon  thirty  arches  of  thirty  feet  in  width,  and  well  worth 
remarking,  for  the  early  period  of  1140.  Once  on  the  top,  I 
found  the  ground  occupied  mostly  by  Bauern,  in  their  novel 
costume.  The  girls  in  short  frocks  of  fancy  colors,  with  balloon 
sleeves,  and  silver  chain  across  the  corsage;  the  men  in  red 
vests  and  short-waisted  coats,  with  two  dozen  silver  and  gilt 
buttons  thereon,  about  the  size  of  a  half  dollar. 

Tents    and    booths   contained   the   eatables   and   drinkables. 


424  PRINCE   VON  TAXIS. 

Service  was  going  on,  and  the  temple  jammed  full.  A  thunder- 
storm came  up,  and  I  took  refuge  in  the  house  of  the  church 
guardian,  in  a  small  room  ten  feet  square,  with  a  bed  in  one 
corner,  thirty  small  prints  of  saints  hanging  around  the  walls,  a 
table  covered  with  mugs,  ham,  and  sausages,  eight  persons,  and 
cigar  smoke  in  clouds. 

The  weather  soon  cleared  up,  and  after  dinner  I  found  the 
town  deserted.  Protestants  and  Catholics  escape  the  city,  and 
the  society  gardens,  as  well  as  the  public  grounds,  are  crowded. 
The  musicians  are  playing,  and  the  adjacent  environs  are 
planted  with  trees,  among  which  stand  large  buildings,  over 
deep  cold  beer  cellars,  for  summer  use. 

The  former  Abbey  of  St.  Emmeran,  now  the  residence  of  the 
Prince  von  Taxis,  one  of  the  wealthiest  nobles  of  the  country, 
is  one  of  the  lions  to  be  seen.  His  picture  gallery  is  not  large 
but  select ;  his  stable  of  sixty  horses  is  a  choice  pattern  of 
neatness  and  convenience;  his  riding  house  is  adorned  with 
many  equestrian  groups  of  ancient  combatants  by  Sch  wan  thaler, 
and  is  a  gem  in  its  way.  The  family  chapel  and  vault  will 
compare  favorably  with  those  of  the  kings  of  Prussia  and 
Hanover  ;  add  to  which,  he  has  a  large  brewery  in  connexion, 
in  active  operation,  which  was  erected  and  worked  by  this  order 
of  monks.  Under  the  roof  of  the  same  previous  ecclesiastical 
establishment,  are  the  refreshment  rooms  for  the  sale  of  the  article 
manufactured.  What  strikes  the  stranger  here  is  the  universal 
use  without  the  abuse,  and  it  redounds  to  the  honor  of  the 
German  chararter,  for  the  rarest  spectacle  is  an  inebriated 
person.  In  the  deep  and  dark  recesses  of  the  Rath  House  here 
are  seen  the  whole  apparatus  of  the  inquisition  ;  parts  of  it  I  had 
seen  in  Italy  and  Spain,  but  here  it  is  completed.  I  saw  the 
latticed  screen  of  the  judge,  with  his  desk,  and  the  bored 
holes  for  candles;  the  penitential  benches  for  culprits,  while 
listening  to  the  groans  of  comrades  inducing  confession ;  the 
chair  of  pointed  spikes,  resembling  a  flax  hetchel,  upon  which 
the  victim  sat,  with  the  stone  weights  suspended  from  his 
ankles  ;  the  platform  upon  which  the  naked  body  lay  during  the 
scraping  of  the  skin  from  the  back  from  head  to  foot ;  bolts  in 
the  floor  to  fasten  the  feet,  and  heavy  fifty  pound  weights, 
attached  to  the  arms,  while  the  shoulders  were  strained  by  the 
windlass;    with    a    variety    of   other  tortures  too  horrible  to 


EEMAINS   OF  THE   INQUISITION,  425 

describe.  The  seat  of  the  doctor  is  also  shown,  whose  business 
was  to  decide  how  much  the  sufferers  could  endure,  without 
expiring  under  the  treatment.  Also  cells  with  small  openings 
through  which  the  prisoners  received  their  food ;  thej  were 
chained  in  such  a  manner  that  they  were  obliged  to  sleep  with 
the  blood  flowing  towards  the  head  and  heart,  inducing,  as  was 
believed,  contrition ;  there  were  dungeons,  too,  in  which  they 
were  let  down,  with  no  opening  except  from  above,  cutting  off 
all  hope  of  escape.  In  witnessing  such  an  exhibition  it  is 
consoling  to  reflect  that  civilization  has  made  much  progress 
since  the  last  century,  when  these  hellish  instruments  were  in 
use. 


CXI. 

"Wiesbaden,  Duchy  of  Nassau,  June  20,  1855. 

From  Ratisbon,  I  went  to  the  famous  Walhalla  Temple, 
occupying  the  summit  of  a  rocky  cliff  upon  the  banks  of  the 
Danube,  about  two  hours'  ride  from  that  city,  composed  entirely 
of  marble,  stone,  and  metal,  and  of  which  I  must  attempt  a 
feeble  description. 

It  seems  that  the  artist  ex-king,  Ludwig,  as  early  as  1807,  when 
crown-prince,  and  while  Germany  was  bowed  down  under 
French  despotism,  conceived  the  design  of  erecting  a  monument 
to  the  memory  of  the  meritorious  sons  of  the  Fatherland.  As 
early  as  1821,  German  sculptors  had  already  prepared  a  portion 
of  the  busts,  when  the  preparatory  ground-work  was  commenced, 
and  on  the  anniversary-day  of  the  battle  of  Leipsic,  18th  of 
October,  1830,  Ludwig,  then  king,  laid  the  foundation-stone,  and 
which  he  opened  complete  in  1842  ;  the  cost  of  which  is  reported, 
but  probably  incorrect,  as  I  notice  an  article  in  a  public  journal, 
saying  that  during  his  reign  forty  millions  of  guilders,  say 
seventeen  millions  of  dollars,  were  expended  in  the  fine  arts, 
and  constructing  and  beautifying  churches,  palaces,  and  temples. 
A  considerable  portion  is  represented  as  out  of  his  private  purse. 

The  majestic  Walhalla  stands  three  hundred  feet  above  the  water 
level,  and  the  ascent  is  effected  by  double  flights  of  broad  marble 
steps,  three  hundred  and  fifty  in  number,  uniting  upon  wide 
platforms,  and   then  recommencing  in  like  manner  until  the 


426  THE   WALHALLA. 

height  is  reached,  giving  a  magnificent  view  of  the  river  and 
surrounding  country,  as  also  a  front  view  of  the  edifice.  The 
terrace  wall  is  built  of  many-cornered  cyclopean  blocks  of  stone, 
and  from  the  second  division  corresponds  with  the  underground 
foundation  of  the  building,  nearly  one  hundred  feet  in  depth. 
The  length  of  the  wall  from  this  platform,  from  north  to  south, 
is  four  hundred  and  eighty-three  feet,  and  width  two  hundred 
and  eighty-eight  feet.  The  temple,  bearing  some  resemblance  to 
the  ancient  Parthenon  at  Athens,  is  two  hundred  and  thirty  feet 
in  length,  one  hundred  and  eighteen  feet  in  width,  and  sixty- 
four  feet  in  height.  It  has  seventeen  marble  columns  on  each 
side,  and  eight  each,  front  and  rear,  thirtj^-one  feet  high,  and  six 
feet  in  diameter. 

The  gable  pediments  contain  the  splendid  marble  sculpture 
work  of  Schwanthaler,  each  group  comprising  fifteen  figures. 
The  one  at  the  north  occupied  that  artist  eight  years.  The 
colossal  form  of  the  national  hero,  Herman,  ten  feet  high,  forms 
the  centre  of  the  group  in  the  final  struggle  with  the  Eomans, 
whose  leader  has  struck  his  sword  in  his  own  breast  to  avoid  the 
sight  of  the  overthrow  of  his  legions.  From  the  time  of  Roman 
and  Greek  antiquity,  perhaps,  so  large  a  gable-group  has  not 
been  seen,  being  seventy-two  feet  in  length.  The  inside  is  one 
hundred  and  sixty-eight  feet  by  forty-eight,  and  fifty -three  feet  to 
the  roof,  and  may  be  considered  a  rare  gem.  The  floor  is  of 
polished  white,  yellow,  and  black  marble  mosaic ;  one  draws  on 
felt  overshoes  to  slip  and  slide  over  the  surface.  The  roof  is  of 
gilded  bronze  plates,  with  three  plate-glass  windows  to  admit  the 
light,  the  crossbeams  of  sky  blue,  and  stars  of  gold,  with  full- 
sized  figures  of  gods  and  heroes.  The  various  polished  marble 
sides  contain  tablets  and  busts  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  of  the 
most  renowned  and  distinguished  Germans.  The  different  divi- 
sions are  protected  by  six  figures  of  Victory,  in  white  Carrara 
marble  ;  these  female  forms,  with  extended  wings,  are  the  work 
of  the  celebrated  Ranch,  at  Berlin.  The  bas-reliefs,  executed  in 
Rome,  of  the  same  material,  extend  entirely  around  the  hall, 
two  hundred  and  ninety-two  feet  in  length,  in  eight  divisions, 
and  mark  the  history  of  the  German  race,  settlement  of  the 
country,  conquests,  arts,  religion,  knowledge,  &c. 

From  Ratisbon,  twelve  hours  by  mail  coach  brings  one  to  the 
old  city  of  Nuremburg,  the  most  antique  in  Germany.     Its  for- 


NUREMBURG.  427 

mer  population,  ninety  thousand,  now  counts  iiftj-two  thousand ; 
it  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  forty  feet  high,  upon  which  are  seventy- 
two  towers  and  bastions  ;  the  four  towers  of  the  principal  gates 
are  built  in  the  form  of  cannons.  Its  cathedral  and  churches 
are  remarkable  for  their  old  illuminated  glass  windows,  wood- 
carving  of  the  altars,  and  life  of  Christ,  by  the  renowned  artists 
Yeit,  Stoss,  and  Adam  Kraft ;  also  paintings  from  the  original 
school  of  Albert  Durer  and  his  master,  as  early  as  1485.  A 
remarkable  old  cemetery  contains  the  tombs  of  the  artists  named. 
The  venerable  chateau,  erected  in  the  tenth  century,  recently 
fitted  up  for  the  royal  family,  who  are  soon  expected,  is  worth  a 
visit,  not  only  for  the  view,  but  its  contents.  In  the  courtyard 
is  a  large  linden  tree,  seven  hundred  years  old.  The  city  hall, 
built  in  the  sixteenth  century,  is  a  fine  structure,  and  contains 
remarkable  stucco-work  of  that  period,  and  paintings  of  Albert 
Durer,  particularly  the  triumphal  procession  of  the  Emperor 
Maximilian  L  The  bridges  over  the  stream  which  runs  through 
the  city,  the  fountains,  monuments,  and  style  of  architecture  of 
the  old  town,  generally  interest  travellers.  Nine  hours  by  rail 
transports  one,  via  Bamburg  and  Wiirzburg,  through  an  interest- 
ing and  varied  country,  to  the  free  city  of  Frankfort-upon-the- 
Main.  Being  on  my  way  to  this  favorite  resort  for  a  rest,  and 
the  use  of  the  waters,  I  tarried  but  little  on  the  Ehine,  and  as 
these  points  are  as  familiar  as  old  acquaintances,  nothing  strikes 
one  as  new.  Wiesbaden  I  find  on  each  repeated  visit  much 
improved  ;  the  usual  concourse  of  guests  is  from  fifteen  thousand 
to  twenty  thousand  annually  ;  its  position  on  the  slope  of  the 
Taunus  hills,  gives  it  the  beautiful  valleys  that  surround  it,  and 
the  advantage  of  healthful  and  recreating  excursions  to  the 
mountains. 

I  shall  remain  here  a  few  days  longer,  then  make  my  way  to 
Paris,  for  the  Exhibition,  after  which  I  may  conclude  to  take 
steamer  to  my  own  Yaterland. 


428  AT  SEA  AGAIN. 


18  5  6. 
CXII. 

Paris,  France,  Jan.  28,  1856. 

You  have  been  kept  advised  from  time  to  time  for  so  many 
years  past  of  my  whereabouts,  that  I  fancy  you  inquiring, 
"  Where  are  you  ?  What  are  you  doing  ?  What  kind  of  pas- 
sage had  you  out?"  and  the  hke.  The  heading  of  this  epistle 
will  show  you  that  I  am  once  again,  and  for  the  tenth  time,  in 
the  great  metropolis  of  the  continent,  which  is  a  sort  of  culmi- 
nating point  for  European  travellers  going  and  returning.  The 
first  day  of  January,  for  the  first  time  in  some  ten  years,  I  was 
permitted  to  remain  late  enough  in  the  north  to  unite  with  the 
denizens  of  our  great  Empire  City  in  keeping  up  the  good  old 
Knickerbocker  custom  of  wishing  a  "  happy  new  year ;"  on  the 
fifth  I  stepped  on  board  the  good  steamship  Pacific  bound  for 
Liverpool. 

We  stood  shivering  upon  the  upper  deck,  gazing  after  those 
left  behind  us,  until  reminded  of  the  comfort  of  a  cabin. 

We  soon  found  ourselves  at  Sandy  Hook,  in  the  commence- 
ment of  a  north-east  snow  storm,  and  with  much  difiiculty  dis- 
posed of  our  pilot.  One  of  the  roughest  and  most  boisterous 
nights  followed.  Those  of  our  passengers  who  were  at  sea  for 
the  first  time,  suffered  all  the  horrors  of  sea-sickness.  Our  gal- 
lant ship  combated  nobly  the  mountain  waves,  the  decks  were 
swept  from  time  to  time,  and  one  life-boat  was  carried  away ;  so 
passed  the  first  twenty-four  hours.  Sunday  morning,  the  sixth, 
I  found  three  passengers  out  of  fifty-eight  at  breakfast,  and  our 
dinner  was  not  served  as  usual,  "  d  la  carte^''  as  the  cook's  galley 
had  been  flooded  and  things  temporarily  deranged. 

We  had  a  succession  of  head  winds  and  snow  flurries  for 
several  days,  with  seldom  a  nautical  observation.  The  first  day 
we  only  made  sixty-five  knots,  as  we  could  not  see  to  run,  but 
our  noble  ship  did  her  duty,  and  made  up  for  lost  time,  doing  the 
passage  in  twelve  days.     I  had  just  taken  up  the  papers  from 


CHESTER — BRISTOL — BATH,  429 

New  York,  and  noticed  that  the  snow  storm  asliore  was  one  of 
the  worst  ever  experienced  by  that  venerable  gentleman,  the 
oldest  inhabitant. 

Passengers  at  sea  are  disposed  to  accommodate  themselves  to 
circumstances,  and  being  more  dependent  upon  each  other  for 
the  means  of  passing  the  time  than  ashore,  generally  make  them- 
selves as  amiable  as  possible.  Our  commander  I  had  formerly 
known  ;  our  steward  had  catered  to  my  wants  from  Panama  to 
San  Francisco;  we  had  several  gentlemen  and  ladies — old 
acquaintances — and  passed  our  time  as  pleasantly  as  our  rolling 
and  pitching  would  permit.  We  had  a  great  variety  of  charac- 
ter for  so  limited  a  number  of  passengers — American,  English, 
French,  German,  Italian,  and  Spanish,  who  finding  your  humble 
servant  was  flimiliar  with  their  several  coantries,  rather  taxed 
his  vocal  organs  in  the  exercises  of  their  different  languages. 

Once  landed  at  Liverpool,  the  great  commercial  mart  of  Eng- 
land, our  party  were  soon  scattered  to  the  four  winds.  I  started 
for  Chester,  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  curious  towns  in  England, 
with  its  porticoes  and  colonnades  which  enable  the  pedestrian  to 
walk  long  distances  without  exposure  to  sun  or  rain,  and  remind 
one  of  Bologna. 

The  Marquis  of  "Westminster,  one  of  the  wealthiest  noblemen 
of  the  kingdom,  has  a  princely  palace  and  parks  in  the  neighbor- 
hood well  worth  a  visit. 

From  Chester  I  proceeded  to  the  great  manufacturing  city  of 
Birmingham,  and  on  to  Bristol,  in  the  west  of  England,  a  large 
seaport  upon  the  Severn,  witli  its  suburban  places  of  resort, 
Clifton  and  Ilotwells,  much  frequented  by  families  and  invalids 
durino;  the  winter,  on  account  of  the  mildness  of  the  climate,  and 
the  picturesque  and  romantic  scenery.  The  first  steamships, 
the  Sirius  and  Great  Western,  were  sent  to  New  York  by  a  Bristol 
Company.  It  is  a  curious  old  city,  but  contains  nothing  very 
striking  for  the  traveller. 

Bath,  renowned  by  the  bards  and  poets,  lies  upon  the  Avon, 
and  has  some  forty  thousand  inhabitants  ;  it  is  prettily  situated 
and  well  built ;  is  celebrated  for  its  hot  springs,  and  is  quite  full 
at  this  season  of  the  year  with  invalids.  The  weather  was  mild 
for  the  winter ;  the  fields  were  still  quite  green,  and  vegetables 
were  exposed  in  the  gardens.  The  Great  Western  Railway  passes 
through  Bath.     The  living  is  good,  after  the  English  style,  roast 


430  THE   CRYSTAL   PALACE. 

beef,  mutton  chops,  plum-pudding,  Cheshire  and  Stilton  cheese, 
ale,  porter,  and  old  port  wine,  being  the  chief  articles  of  con- 
sumption;  there  is  no  table  c?'Aofe  at  the  public  houses ;  parties 
dine  separately  at  hotels  in  a  very  unsocial  manner. 

The  approach  to  Birmingham  via  Wolverhampton,  for  twenty 
miles  along  the  railway  line,  early  in  the  evening,  presented  a 
curious  spectacle,  and  reminded  me  of  a  close  proximity  to  the 
infernal  regions ;  the  hundreds  of  furnaces  for  the  manufacture 
of  coke,  iron,  and  steel,  throwing  out  their  lurid  glare  of  light 
and  smoke,  whose  fires  rarely  die  out,  surpassed  those  of  any 
part  of  England  I  had  seen,  and  filled  me  with  awe  and  admira- 
tion of  this  immense  branch  of  industry. 

Coming  over  the  Great  Western  Railroad  to  London,  there  is 
much  to  admire,  and  many  places  worth  a  detour  or  a  visit; 
among  these  are  the  Universities  at  Oxford,  and  the  residence 
of  the  Queen  at  Windsor  Castle,  all  of  which  I  had  formerly 
seen. 

At  Sydenham,  twenty  miles  from  London,  now  stands  the 
Crystal  Palace.  Its  lofty  towers,  two  hundred  and  forty  feet  in 
height,  are  not  yet  complete ;  its  elevated  position  commands 
the  whole  country  ;  the  parks  are  being  beautifully  ornamented. 
It  so  far  excels  what  it  was  when  I  saw  it  in  Hyde  Park,  at  the 
time  of  the  Exhibition,  that  I  shall  not  attempt  to  describe  it. 
Suffice  it  to  say,  the  Egyptian,  East  Indian,  Moorish,  and  Italian 
departments,  representing  so  faithfully  the  architecture,  painting, 
statuary,  and  inscriptions  of  those  countries  were  to  me  an  invalua- 
ble souvenir.  The  Oriental  department,  kept  up  to  tropical  heat 
in  midwinter,  with  fragrant  plants  and  flowers,  fish  swimming  in 
the  fountains,  birds  chirping  and  singing  in  the  presence  of  huge 
Indian  deities  upon  the  fagades  of  temples,  almost  transports  one 
to  the  banks  of  the  Granges. 

A  return  to  the  city,  with  its  teeming  population  of  two  and 
a  half  millions,  crowded  thoroughfares,  bustle  and  confusion, 
soon  dispels  the  illusion.  The  winter  is  no  time  for  sight-seeing 
m  London,  as  the  smoke  or  fog  oftentimes  prevent  your  seeing 
more  than  a  few  steps  before  you ;  indeed  at  eleven  a.m.  the  gas 
lights  are  sometimes  still  burning.  All  navigation  upon  the 
Thames  is  suspended ;  horses  and  vehicles  and  foot  passengers 
grope  their  way  in  the  dense  obscurity. 

The  communication  from  London  to  Paris,  via   Dover   and 


FLORENCE.  431 

Calais,  or  Folkstone  aud  Boulogne,  is  made  in  twelve  or  fourteen 
hours,  at  an  expense  of  three  pounds  five  shillings,  say  fifteen 
dollars.  The  English  railway  fares  are  more  than  double  those 
of  the  United  States.  The  same  remark  will  apply  to  the  gene- 
ral expenses  of  life. 

The  Parisians  are  preparing  for  the  Carnival,  when  masked 
balls  will  be  all  the  rage,  and  the  '■' Boeuf  Gras,^''  or  fat  ox,  will  be 
paraded  through  the  streets  on  "  Mardi  Gro.s.''^ 


CXIII. 

Florence,  Italy,  May  2,  1856. 

Yesterday,  the  1st  of  May,  a  gala- day  in  many  countries, 
happening  to  be  the  anniversary  of  the  Ascension,  it  united  the 
church  festival  and  the  annual  rejoicings  of  citizens  and  peasants ; 
all  business  being  suspended,  and  the  entire  populace  at  liberty, 
there  was  an  unusual  movement  of  the  masses,  and  from  early- 
dawn  until  night  might  be  seen  the  working-classes  with  their 
baskets  of  provisions,  and  flasks  of  wine,  making  their  way  to 
the  shady  groves  of  the  Cascina,  or  royal  farm.  The  wealthy 
denizens,  in  carriages,  reserved  their  drive  until  towards  evening, 
to  enjoy  the  music  of  the  band,  which  had  already  assisted  at  the 
church  exercises  and  processions  of  the  morning. 

Having  left  the  gay  throng,  I  wandered  along  through  the 
forest  upon  the  banks  of  the  Arno,  listening  to  the  changing 
notes  of  the  nightingale,  until  I  came  to  the  junction  of  another 
stream,  which  arrested  my  progress.  I  was  startled  by  the  tread 
of  the  iron-horse  in  the  distance,  on  his  way  to  Leghorn.  My 
thoughts,  wath  more  than  locomotive  speed,  carried  me  back  to 
the  advantages  enjoyed  through  steam  power.  One  year  before 
I  w\as  strolling  upon  the  shores  of  the  Danube,  through  the  shady 
woods  of  the  Prater,  watching  the  movements  of  the  people,  and 
the  gay  cortege  of  the  Imperial  family  of  Austria,  on  a  like 
occasion.  The  same  power  had  since  conveyed  me  twice  across 
the  Atlantic,  through  our  Western  States,  and  to  the  head  waters 
of  the  Mississippi,  and  how  much  reason  I  bad  to  be  thankful  for 
ray  almost  miraculous  preservation  from  the  perils  attending 
that  power  which  I  had  so  recently  praised,  in  the  superior 
qualities  of  the  steamer  Pacific,  in  my  last  passage  to  Europe. 


432  ANNUAL   RACES. 

If  she  be  now  imfortimatelj  added  to  the  list  of  lost,  it  makes  the 
sixth  of  the  first-class  steamers  gone  to  the  bottom,  from  which  I 
have  escaj)ed  within  the  past  few  years. 

My  reverie  was  broken  by  the  appearance  of  a  group  of  ruddy- 
faced  peasant-girls,  some  with  broad-brimmed  straw-hats  and 
long  ribbons  floating  in  the  breeze,  and  some  with  pearl  neck- 
laces and  crossed  eari'ings.  It  was  a  bridal  party.  Some  of  the 
girls  were  remarkable  for  their  beauty  and  freshness  of  com- 
plexion, notwithstanding  their  exposure  to  hard  labor  in  the 
vineyards.  The  bridal  portion  of  the  peasant  girl  consists  in  the 
dress  and  valuable  ornaments  presented  to  her  by  the  groom  a 
few  days  before  the  marriage. 

As  I  returned  through  the  broad  and  solitary  avenues,  I  met 
at  intervals  the  forest  guards,  of  which  there  were  ten  in  number, 
in  picturesque  hunting  dresses,  with  rifles  in  their  hands,  and 
plumes  in  their  hats.  Then  I  came  to  the  joyful  and  giddy 
throng — music,  dancing,  eating,  and  drinking. 

Winter  is  past,  spring  time  has  come  once  again,  and  all  strive 
to  be  happy.  Little  country  urchins  are  offering  children  minia- 
ture corn-stalk  cages  containing  crickets,  whose  singing  qualities 
they  proclaim  to  inquiring  nurses. 

The  annual  races  were  held  recently  for  three  days  in  the 
same  vicinity,  which  attracted  large  numbers  of  the  upper  classes 
of  the  community.  The  concourse  of  beauty  and  fashion  in 
carriages  was  quite  different  from  what  it  is  with  us,  and  gave 
strangers,  of  whom  large  numbers  are  now  here  on  their  return 
from  Rome  and  Naples,  a  fine  opportunity  of  seeing  the  aristo- 
cracy, and  witnessing  the  sports  of  the  turf  Curiosity  led  me 
to  be  present  on  one  occasion,  and  I  found  things  went  off  better 
than  I  had  expected.  Considerable  interest  was  manifested  by 
many  for  the  success  of  a  horse  mounted  by  a  negro  jockey, 
rather  a  rare  personage  in  this  country,  but  poor  Cuffy  was 
almost  distanced.  It  seemed  to  me,  however,  the  fellow  was  not 
disheartened,  for  I  saw  him  in  the  evening  sipping  his  ice  with  a 
well-dressed  white  woman  in  a  respectable  cafe.  I  cite  this  as 
one  of  many  examples  seen  in  England  and  on  the  continent, 
however  shocking  it  may  be  to  the  American  mind  to  witness, 
of  the  practical  amalgamation  of  the  races  carried  out  among  the 
sympathizers  of  poor  Uncle  Tom. 

Inasmuch  as  all  Europe  have  had  their  demonstrations  of  joy 


STONE-CUTTERS.  433 

upon  the  return  of  peace,  so  also  has  this  government  manif^jsted 
its  satisfoction  in  a  jubilee.  I  suppose  even  the  Duchy  of  Parma 
has  done  the  same,  although  recently  put  in  a  state  of  siege, 
growing  out  of  the  frequent  attempts  at  assassination  of  govern- 
ment officers.  All  firearms  must  be  given  up,  and  strangers  are 
closely  watched. 

The  people  are  looking  anxiously  for  the  publication  of  the 
articles  of  peace,  hoping  that  Italy  may  also  have  real  cause  for 
rejoicing. 

Although  the  carriage  horses  here  are  of  large  size  and  well- 
proportioned,  there  is  quite  a  passion  manifested  for  small  ponies 
of  the  Shetland  stock,  for  little  tiny  wagons,  well  adapted  to  run 
over  the  hills,  and  glide  in  and  around  the  city,  over  the  well- 
paved  streets. 

My  ears  have  been  bored  several  days  past  with  the  continual 
chiselling  of  the  /Scorpellmi,  or  stone-cutters,  who  are  repaving 
the  street  under  my  windows,  and  the  solid  arched  stone  bridge 
over  the  river.  From  seven  in  the  morning  until  seven  in  the 
evening,  with  an  hour's  intermission  for  a  frugal  meal,  they  are 
measuring,  picking,  and  cutting  huge  granite  blocks  into  suitable 
forms,  close  jointed ;  the  street  has  no  sidewalk,  the  descent 
being  gradual  from  the  houses,  and  the  water  carried  off  by  cul- 
verts from  the  centre.  It  is  a  pleasure  to  look  upon  such  beau- 
tiful work ;  a  carriage  rolls  without  impediment,  and  where 
there  is  an  ascent  it  can  be  nitched  or  chiselled,  as  may  be 
needed,  for  the  foothold  of  horses.  These  poor  mechanics  earn 
from  thirty  to  forty  cents  per  day,  our  currency,  and  consider 
themselves  well  paid,  notwithstanding  the  increased  price  of  pro- 
visions, while  large  numbers  in  other  pursuits  have  only  the 
miserable  pittance  of  from  one  to  one  and  a  half  pauls  per  day, 
say  from  twelve  to  eighteen  cents. 

Begging  in  the  capital  is  prohibited  by  law,  but  tolerated  in 
consequence  of  the  distress  of  the  poor.  Public  beggars  are  fre- 
quently unworthy  of  charity,  but  a  Howard  would  have  a  fine 
field  here  for  the  exercise  of  benevolence.  The  other  day, 
emerging  from  the  Palazzo  Pitti,  or  royal  residence,  wearied  in 
gazing  through  long  galleries  at  the  pictures  of  Raphael,  Rubens, 
Titian,  Salvator  Rosa,  Murillo,  Carlo  Dolci,  and  a  host  of  other 
celebrated  painters ;  at  the  statuary  of  renowned  artists,  the  alle- 
gorical frescoed  ceilings,  and  seeking  relief  in  the  shady  walks 

28 


434  THE   DUOMO. 

of  the  Boboli,  or  palace  garden,  my  attention  was  arrested  by 
the  Ducal  family  riding  out  with  a  splendid  equipage.  Happy 
children  of  wealthy  families  fed  the  gold  fish  in  the  basins  sur- 
rounding the  fountains,  decorated  with  the  colossal  figure  of 
Neptune,  with  the  waters  of  the  Ganges,  Nile,  and  Euphrates 
gushing  forth,  while  nurses  and  liveried  servants  were  in  attend- 
ance. 

Continuing  my  walk  quite  into  the  suburbs,  and  reflecting 
upon  the  concentration  of  so  much  treasure  in  the  hands  of  the 
nobility,  and  the  inequality  of  society  in  monarchical  countries,  I 
accidentally  met  a  little  boy  quite  alone,  poorly  clad,  with 
dejected  air,  trying  to  gather  a  few  sticks.  On  inquiry  I  found 
he  had  eaten  nothing  for  twenty-four  hours,  and  had  left  his  poor 
mother  and  four  children  in  a  suffering  state.  His  hunger  was 
soon  appeased  at  the  first  baker's  shop,  and  it  was  pleasant  to  see 
the  little  fellow  going  to  the  relief  of  the  others  with  something 
more  substantial  than  his  errand  called  for. 

After  repeated  visits  to  the  same  city,  one  becomes  so  accus- 
tomed to  the  remarkable  sights  which  first  attract  the  stranger, 
that  if  he  attempts  to  describe  them  he  scarcely  knows  where  to 
begin. 

We  pass  and  repass  the  Palazzo  Vecchio,  an  old  palace  of  Gre- 
cian and  Etruscan  architecture,  with  its  lofty  tower  of  the  thir- 
teenth century,  and  its  gigantic  figures,  at  the  entrance,  of 
David  slaying  Goliah,  and  Hercules  slaying  Cacus,  with  but 
slight  notice,  casting  a  glance  at  the  open  gallery  opposite,  with 
its  pretty  front  of  columns  and  arches,  containing  the  beautiful 
bronze  figure  of  Perseus  and  Medusa,  with  the  bleeding  head 
of  the  latter  severed  from  the  body,  the  marble  group  of  a  young 
Roman  warrior  carrying  off  a  Sabine  female,  whose  father  is 
prostrate  at  his  feet,  the  statues  of  priestesses,  figures  of  huge 
lions,  &c. 

One  strolls  along  through  the  city,  on  some  church  festival,  to 
the  Duomo,  or  cathedral  of  the  thirteenth  century,  the  walls  of 
which  are  of  black  and  white  polished  marble,  four  hundred 
feet  in  length.  The  front  never  was  finished,  but  a  project  is 
now  on  foot  for  its  completion.  The  square  tower,  or  Campa- 
nilla,  of  Arabic  and  Greek  architecture,  of  white,  black,  and  red 
marble,  stands  beside  it,  and  rises  two  hundred  and  eighty  feet 
dn  height.     The  baptistery,  of  octagon  form,  somewhat  resem- 


SIENA.  435 

bling  tlie  Parthenon  at  Eome,  stands  opposite  and  completes  the 
trio. 

The  bronze  doors  are  exceedingly  beautifal,  with  festoons  and 
foliage  prettily  wrought.  The  marble  columns,  the  altars,  ihe 
twelve  statues  representing  the  Apostles  and  the  written  laws, 
the  trophies  of  victory,  won  by  the  Eepublic  against  the  Pisans 
— these,  with  other  adornments  here,  become  so  familiar  to  the 
eye,  that  when  one  drops  in  on  some  festival  occasion,  or  chris- 
tening, his  attention  is  more  directed  to  the  personages  and  cere- 
monies than  the  contents  of  the  edifice. 

Instead  of  wearying  you  with  descriptions  of  works  of  art,  I 
would  rather  revert  to  the  beauties  of  nature,  at  this  season 
of  the  year,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Florence.  The  rides, 
walks,  and  views  from  the  surrounding  hills,  are  now  most 
agreeable  and  rarely  excelled. 


CXIV. 

Bologna,  June  3,  1856. 

Before  leaving  Tuscany,  I  passed  a  couple  of  days  in  revisit- 
ing Siena,  from  which  place  I  wrote  two  years  since  on  my  way 
to  Eome.  It  is  accessible  by  railroad  from  Florence.  Although 
dull  it  possesses  much  of  interest,  and  its  airy  mountain  location 
induces  many  to  spend  a  part  of  the  summer  in  it.  Its  delicious 
water,  from  a  fountain  constructed  in  the  year  1193,  and  famous 
for  its  quantity  and  quality,  is  spoken  of  by  Dante,  in  his 
Inferno.  The  people,  however,  do  not  consider  it  the  best 
substitute  for  their  favorite  wines,  which  they  have  been  in 
some  measure  deprived  of  by  the  partial  failure  of  the  grape 
crop  of  late  years ;  they  look  forward,  however,  to  a  good  return 
season. 

The  cathedral,  the  position  of  which  was  once  occupied  by 
a  temple  dedicated  to  Minerva,  is  a  masterpiece  of  Tuscan 
Gothic  architecture,  incrusted  without  and  within  with  black 
and  white  marble,  of  the  fifteenth  century.  Notwithstanding 
the  eye  may  tire  of  gazing  at  churches  and  their  contents,  still 
this  old  edifice,  constructed  by  the  celebrated  sculptors  of  Siena, 
will  well  bear  re-examination,  and  the  mosaic  pavement,  among 
the  most  celebrated   in  Italy,   is  a  study  in  itself,    consisting 


436  MOSAICS   IN   THE    CATHEDRAL. 

of  sculptured  history,  the  story  of  Moses,  also  that  of  Joshua, 
and  the  emblems  of  cities  once  in  alliance  with  Siena;  the 
elephant  of  Rome,  with  a  castle  on  his  back ;  the  lions  of 
Florence  and  Massa ;  the  dragon  of  Pistoia ;  the  hare  of  Pisa ; 
the  unicorn  of  Viterbo ;  the  horse  of  Avezzo ;  the  she-wolf  of 
Siena,  in  memory  of  Romulus  and  Remus ;  and  many  other 
animals  and  armorial  representations  of  the  different  cities  and 
republics.  Abraham's  intended  sacrifice  of  his  son  is  most 
esteemed.  The  art  of  description  in  mosaic  as  early  as  the 
fourteenth  century,  strikes  many  persons  with  surprise  ;  but  it 
appears  from  the  pavement  which  I  saw  in  one  of  the  disin- 
terred houses  among  the  ruins  of  Pompeii,  and  which  represented 
the  battle  of  Darius  with  the  Persians,  that  the  art  was  known 
before  Christ;  Pompeii  being  buried  by  the  irruption  of  Mount 
Yesuvius  in  the  year  72.  The  painted  glass  of  the  year  1549, 
with  the  busts  of  all  popes  down  to  Alexander  III.,  and  some 
original  frescoes  of  Raphael,  are  all  well  worth  attention. 

Some  years  since,  coming  to  this  city,  I  employed  the 
Yetturino  mode  of  conveyance,  taking  the  mountain  route,  with 
the  privilege  of  stopping  when  and  where  I  pleased,  with  an 
agreeable  party.  For  the  first  trip  it  was  decidedly  pleasant;  we 
had  a  fine  view  from  the  summit  of  the  Apennines,  of  the 
Adriatic  and  Mediterranean  ;  now  halting  for  a  rest,  or  gratifying 
our  curiosity  ;  again  strolling  off  to  visit  some  remnant  of  anti- 
quitv,  and  passing  the  night  in  some  solitary  inn  or  obscure 
village  ;  then  came  a  scramble  to  the  top  of  a  hill  called  Monte 
di  Fo.  High  up  over  the  rocks  there  was  a  small  volcano,  some 
fifteen  feet  in  circumference,  disgorging  its  bright  flames  much 
to  the  satisfaction  of  some  of  our  party,  who  had  not  yet 
climbed  Yesuvius  or  JStna,  or  seen  Stromboli  in  a  state  of 
eruption.  As  we  are  apt  to  judge  by  comparison,  I  naturally 
looked  at  it  as  a  small  specimen  of  a  volcano.  Having  since 
seen  the  burning  mountains  and  craters  of  the  Snndwich 
Islands,  I  was  not  ambitious  to  retrace  my  old  route,  so  I  took 
the  railroad  to  the  old  city  of  Pistoia,  with  its  wide,  straight,  and 
well-paved  streets.  It  contains  some  objects  worthy  of  notice, 
but  appears  dull  for  want  of  population  ;  it  was  famous  among 
the  ancients  for  the  defeat  of  Catiline,  and  in  more  modern 
times  for  the  factions  of  the  Guelphs  and  Ghibelines. 

The  country  around  is  rich  and  fertile  in  the  extreme,  being 


BOLOGNA.  437 

amongst  the  best  caltivated  in  Tuscany.  At  tliis  season  of 
flowers  and  early  fruits,  the  hedges  and  climbing  vines  in 
festoons  upon  the  trees,  forming  continuous  arbors,  present  a 
gay  and  cheerful  appearance. 

From  Pistoia,  taking  the  coupe  or  front  compartment  of  a 
diligence,  in  company  with  a  French  baron  and  his  lady,  and 
nine  passengers  inside  and  on  top,  besides  a  heavy  load  of  baggage, 
with  from  four  to  seven  horses,  and  a  pair  of  oxen  for  the  steepest 
ascent  of  the  Apennines,  we  accomplished  the  distance  of  fifty- 
four  miles  in  thirteen  hours,  along  a  most  picturesque  and 
romantic  route,  winding  around  the  brink  of  precipices  and  upon 
the  margin  of  mountain  torrents,  with  their  deafening  roar,  not 
apprehensive  of  avalanches  of  snow  which  I  have  sometimes 
dreaded  in  Switzerland ;  they  have  an  occasional  land  slide  here. 
We  passed  one  spot,  in  particular,  where  twenty-four  persons 
lost  their  lives. 

Crossing  the  frontier  into  the  Papal  States,  we  had,  at  the  first 
custom-house,  the  usual  scenes,  such  as  I  described  to  you  two 
years  since,  in  going  south ;  also  swarms  of  beggars,  blind,  halt, 
and  lame,  affording  an  opportunity  of  disposing  of  small  coin,  no 
longer  of  use  in  the  adjoining  territory. 

Descending  the  mountain,  following  the  course  of  the  river 
Eeno  through  a  beautiful  valley,  the  road  lined  with  the  tall 
poplars  of  Lombardy,  we  arrive  at  Bologna,  the  second  city  in 
size,  and  first  in  commercial  importance,  of  the  sovereign  Pontiff 
Pius  IX. ;  it  is  pleasantly  situated  upon  the  river  just  named, 
and  famous  for  other  things  besides  its  sausages.  History  reports 
its  existence,  under  the  name  of  Felsina,  as  an  Etruscan  town,  pre- 
vious to  its  capture  by  the  Boii,  who  changed  its  name  to  Boina, 
and  in  time  converted  to  Bologna.  653  B.C.  it  received  a  Eoman 
colony,  but  suffered  by  civil  war ;  it  was  restored  by  Augustus 
after  the  battle  of  Actium,  and  afterwards  became  one  of  the 
most  powerful  cities  of  Italy. 

It  is  now  commercial,  with  a  population  of  seventy  thousand. 
It  is  the  most  remarkable  city  for  porticoes  I  have  ever  seen.  It  is 
rainy  to-day,  but  you  may  walk  for  miles  without  an  umbrella. 
About  three  miles  from  the  city,  on  the  summit  of  a  hill,  is  the 
church  of  the  Madonna,  the  ascent  to  which  is  fatiguing ;  it  has 
a  continuous  arcade,  containing  six  hundred  and  forty  columns, 
constructed  at  the  expense  of  different  ecclesiastical   establish'- 


438  THE   PIAZZA   DEL    DUOMO. 

ments,  and  the  bequests  of  the  rich.  We  went  up  the  carriage 
road  in  our  vehicle,  putting  in  advance  of  the  horses  a  pair  of 
oxen.  From  the  summit  is  a  vast  and  extensive  view  of  the 
neighboring  mountains,  the  extended  valley,  and  the  city,  almost 
at  our  feet. 

A  curious  old  tower  stands  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  city, 
called  Asinelli,  erected  in  1109  ;  it  is  said  to  be  three  hundred 
and  twenty-seven  feet  high,  and  inclines  four  feet.  Another, 
near  by,  built  about  the  same  time,  is  one  hundred  and  forty 
feet  in  height,  and  inclines  eight  feet  from  the  perpendicular. 
They  are  constructed  of  brick,  and  have  been  restored  at  different 
periods.  A  slight  shock  of  an  earthquake  would  tell  a  sad  tale 
for  the  neighbors.  A  canal,  or  race,  runs  through  the  city  with 
an  abundance  of  water,  supplying  the  mills.  The  Piazza  del 
Duomo,  or  principal  public  square,  upon  which  stands  the 
venerable  cathedral,  the  Government  House,  and  other  public 
buildings,  has  a  noble  but  antique  appearance.  Here  is  a  colossal 
statue  of  Neptune,  in  bronze,  by  the  celebrated  Giovanni  of 
Bologna.  This  gigantic  figure  holds  a  trident,  one  foot  rests 
upon  a  dolphin,  and  at  the  base  of  the  four  angles  of  the  pedestal 
are  seated  four  female  figures,  with  their  hands  across  their 
breasts,  from  which  issue  jets  of  water ;  their  nether  limbs, 
terminating  in  the  form  of  fish,  are  seated  upon  huge  dolphins, 
whose  nostrils  spout  the  liquid  stream  in  the  basin  beneath. 
The  Campo  Santo,  or  burial  ground,  ordered  by  Napoleon  in 
1801,  is  interesting  to  visit. 

Bologna  boasts  of  giving  birth  to  Guido,  Domenichino, 
Annibale  Caracci,  and  of  course  has  a  good  gallery  of  paintings. 
Its  anatomical  collections,  with  the  one  in  Florence,  are  the 
most  curious  and  extensive  in  the  world.  Its  university  is 
supposed  to  have  been  founded  by  the  Emperor  Theodosius,  in 
the  year  425  of  the  Christian  era ;  others  say  by  the  Countess 
Matilda,  much  later.  It  is  said  to  have  contained  six  thousand 
students  once,  and  professors  in  proportion  ;  its  celebrity  is  not 
now  so  great.  Some  of  the  palaces  are  well  worth  seeing,  for 
those  who  have  not  seen  Italy  generally. 

Strangers,  I  notice,  make  but  a  short  tarry  here  generally, 
but  push  on  south  for  Florence  and  Rome,  or  further  north  to 
Milan  and  Venice.  I  design  to  reach  the  latter  place  in  a  few 
days,  after  visiting  Modena  and  Mantua. 


MODENA  AND   PARMA.  439 


CXY. 

Venice,  Italy,  Jicly  1,  1856. 

The  Duchies  of  Modena  and  Parma  (the  latter  is  in  a  state 
of  siege  since  the  assassination  of  the  Duke),  were  among  the  few 
points  in  all  Italy  I  had  never  visited ;  so  I  was  induced  to 
diverge  from  my  route  to  this  city  to  look  in  upon  these  little 
courts,  whose  fortified  capitals  contain  some  forty  to  fifty  thou- 
sand inhabitants  each,  and  whose  territories  might  bear  some 
resemblance  in  size  to  the  little  states  of  Rhode  Island  and  Dela- 
ware, surrounded  by  their  more  opulent  neighbors;  but  the 
usual  forms  of  visitation  of  baggage,  examination  of  passport, 
and  other  annoyances  of  the  police,  must  be  submitted  to. 

The  strict  censorship,  and  tax  upon  the  home  press,  and  the 
suppression  of  liberal  foreign  journals — even  those  of  patriotic 
Sardinia,  across  the  frontier,  are  forbidden — and  keep  the  peo- 
ple in  ignorance.  The  country  is  rich  and  fertile,  closely  culti- 
vated from  necessity  by  a  redundant  population.  The  palace  of 
the  Duchess  Regent  of  Parma  is  strongly  guarded  by  Austrian 
soldiery,  whicli  is  also  the  case  in  many  parts  of  the  Pope's 
dominions. 

Strangers  are  looked  upon  with  suspicion  by  the  authorities, 
as  they  well  know  the  masses  are  much  dissatisfied  with  the 
result  of  the  Peace  Congress  at  Paris,  having  hoped  for  reform 
in  Italy ;  they  fear,  therefore,  an  outbreak  of  popular  resentment. 
The  parade  and  pomp  observed  by  the  small  potentates  of  Italy 
and  Germany,  aping  their  superiors  in  all  the  forms  and 
etiquette  of  court  life,  to  the  exhaustion  of  their  subjects,  often 
brings  to  my  mind  the  burlesque  on  royalty  of  the  black  empe- 
ror Soulouque,  before  whose  palace  entrance  I  noticed  more 
ebony  soldiers  than  I  had  ever  seen  Cossacks  before  the  winter 
palace  of  the  late  Czar  Nicholas. 

From  Parma  I  proceeded  north-east  some  forty  miles,  passing 
over  a  perfectly  level  agxicultural  country,  with  waving  fields  of 
wheat,  rye,  hemp,  hedges  of  trees,  and  festoons  of  climbing 
grape  vines.  The  peasantry  were  picking  the  leaves  of  the  mulr- 
berry  for  the  silkworms,  which  are  here  a  great  source  of  reve- 
nue. 

We  crossed  the  rivers  Po  and  Olio  in  scow  boats,  and  came  to 


440  VENICE. 

Mantua,  renowned  for  its  gallant  defence  during  several  sieges. 
This  Lombardian  city  and  fortress,  wliicli  contain  some  thirty -five 
thousand  inhabitants,  have  been  much  strengthened  under  Aus- 
trian possession,  and  look  impregnable.  There  are  some  objects 
of  interest,  but  not  sufficient  to  detain  the  tourist  long. 

Crossing  a  famous  stone  bridge  over  a  river,  seven  hundred 
and  eighty  yards  in  length,  at  a  distance  of  three  miles,  one  is 
rejoiced  again  to  strike  a  railroad,  which  conducts  to  this  extra- 
ordinary city.  Had  it  not  been  for  several  days'  indisposition,  I 
really  think  I  should  have  enjoyed  this  my  third  visit  to  this 
unique  city  as  much  as  the  first.  After  having  escaped  the 
noise,  bustle,  and  dust  of  continental  cities,  it  is  a  great  relief  to 
get  where  you  are  surrounded  with  comparative  quiet  and  soli- 
tude, away  from  the  rattling  of  carriages  and  tread  of  horses, 
with  free  circulation  of  salt  air  from  the  lagoons  of  the  Adriatic, 
and  particularly  during  this  season  of  salt  bathing.  I  am  located 
on  the  Grand  Canal  near  the  Piazza  San  Marco,  and  am  annoyed 
with  the  continual  chattering  of  the  Gondoliers,  whose  songs  are 
inspiriting,  but  whose  noisy  disputes  are  disturbing  to  the  tem- 
porary invalid. 

You  are  aware  that  Venice  is  built  upon  many  small  islands, 
mounted  upon  piles,  and  connected  by  means  of  bridges  and 
canals  in  the  lagoons,  thus  separated  from  the  sea.  I  will  not 
undertake  to  describe  this  wonder  of  the  world,  the  seat  of  the 
Doo;es :  the  vast  commerce  of  its  two  hundred  thousand  inhabit- 
ants  in  the  fifteenth  century,  now  reduced  to  one  hundred  and 
twenty -five  thousand ;  its  gorgeous  palaces,  its  magnificent 
churches,  its  narrow  streets,  its  theatres,  its  valuable  collections 
of  art  by  the  old  masters,  and  its  four  hundred  and  fifty  bridges, 
connecting  one  hundred  and  thirty-six  islands  with  its  water 
communication  by  one  hundred  and  fifty-four  canals.  The  natu- 
ral bubbling  of  a  fountain  is  unknown,  and  horses  are  objects  of 
curiosity ;  thousands  of  gondolas  and  other  craft  supply  the 
places  of  carriages,  both  private  and  public;  you  step  out  of 
your  palace  or  hotel  door  into  your  vehicle  to  be  transported  for 
pleasure  or  business,  as  in  a  cab.  The  Grand  Canal  winds  in 
the  form  of  an  S  through  the  city,  and  is  divided  into  two  parts. 

A  gay  scene  presents  itself  these  bright  moonlight  nights, 
with  the  hundreds  of  boats,  containing  families,  beautifully 
dressed  ladies,  and  a  fair  share  of  strangers,  floating  gracefully 


NIGHT   SCENES.  441 

along,  while  the  balconies  of  the  antique  marble  palaces  of 
Gothic,  Byzantine,  and  other  styles  of  architecture  are  filled  with 
their  residents.  The  grateful  and  refreshing  breeze  disperses 
the  smoke  of  the  lovers  of  good  cigars,  and  new  objects 
of  attraction  are  continually  presented  to  the  eye. 

We  will  here  step  out  for  the  present  and  wind  our  way 
through  the  narrow  streets  lined  with  tiny  stores  and  shops 
filled  with  all  that  art  and  taste  can  conceive  of,  following  the 
multitude  like  a  swarm  of  bees  through  the  intricate  lanes  and 
alleys  from  four  to  twelve  feet  in  width,  in  order  not  to  lose  our 
way ;  we  will  suppose  it  is  eight  or  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening, 
and  they  are  proceeding  to  the  public  square  San  Marco,  which 
has  been  lighted  with  gas  since  mj^  last  visit  here.  Venice  has 
some  four  hundred  cafes,  and  here  under  the  porticos  of  the 
palaces  forming  the  large  piazza,  or  square,  are  twenty-five 
of  them,  with  thousands  of  chairs  and  benches  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  the  immense  throng,  where  fiishion  and  beauty  partake 
of  ices,  and  other  refreshments,  listening  to  the  music  of  the 
Austrian  band,  the  interim  being  filled  with  the  songs  and 
recitations  of  strolling  minstrels.  Baskets  of  confectionery  are 
moving  about  in  the  crowd,  and  groups  of  promenaders  saunter 
along  the  well-paved  and  commodious  piazza,  which  has  scarcely 
a  particle  of  dust  to  soil  their  beautiful  dresses.  There  in  front 
stands  the  Cathedral  San  Marco,  now  nearly  eight  hundred 
years  old,  with  its  symmetrical  cupolas  and  fagade  of  porphyry 
and  other  antique  marbles,  its  scriptural  figures  in  golden 
mosaic,  and  its  four  bronze  horses  brought  from  Corinth,  taken 
to  Paris  by  Napoleon,  but  afterwards  restored. 

There  stands  the  Campanilla,  three  hundred  and  thirty-four 
feet  in  height,  from  which  a  fair  view  may  be  obtained  by 
daylight,  and  near  by  is  the  Doge's  Palace,  in  all  its  grandeur, 
communicating  by  the  Bridge  of  Sighs  with  the  prisons.  The 
columns  of  the  Lion  of  San  Marco  and  Saint  Theodore  stand 
towering  in  bold  relief  as  you  approach  the  water's  edge,  where 
hundreds  of  gondolas  are  waiting  to  receive  their  precious 
freight. 

This  is  the  bright  side  of  the  picture.  My  letter  is  now  too 
extended  to  give  in  detail  the  private  communications  of  those 
who  suffer  in  spirit  and  in  purse  from  the  arbitrary  exactions 
of  the  power  which  now  gores  them. 


442  PAViA. 


CXVI. 

COMO,  Lake  of  Como,  July  29,  1856. 

Eecovering  from  temporary  indisposition  at  Venice,  I  made 
up  for  lost  time  in  revisiting  several  cities  already  seen,  such  as 
Padua,  Verona,  Milan,  Bergamo,  Vicenza,  and  made  several 
detours  to  visit  points  that  I  was  not  familiar  with,  such  as  the 
Lago  di  Garda,  whose  beautiful  waters  will  compare  favorably 
with  Lago  Maggiore  and  Lago  Como, 

The  whole  distance  from  the  fortification  of  Peschiera  to  Eiva, 
at  the  head  of  the  Lake,  is  made  by  a  small  Austrian  steamer  in 
six  hours,  touching  at  the  different  villages  upon  its  well 
cultivated  banks,  abounding  with  millions  of  orange  and  lemon 
trees — a  source  of  a  great  profit  for  exportation.  This  region 
is  protected  by  mountains,  some  as  high  as  six  thousand  feet, 
with  deep  blue  waters,  romantic  waterfalls,  amphitheatred  walls, 
olive  groves  and  climbing  vineyards  all  around.  Although  in 
the  north  of  Italy,  approaching  Switzerland,  the  climate  in 
winter  is  mild,  and  fogs  are  quite  unknown ;  the  Lake  never 
freezes. 

Proceeding  to  Milan,  the  Lombardian  capital,  by  rail  and  land 
conveyance,  I  was  induced  to  strike  off  south-east  to  visit  Pavia, 
noted  for  its  University  containing  nine  hundred  students,  and 
its  collection  of  anatomy  and  natural  history.  Twenty  miles 
distant  is  Lodi,  rendered  memorable  by  Napoleon  in  the  famous 
battle  crossing  the  bridge  over  the  rapid  river  Adda.  I  found 
great  preparations  making  for  the  festival  of  the  patron  saint  of 
the  city,  whose  remains,  dating  from  the  fourth  century,  were 
being  transmitted  from  the  old  vault  in  the  basement  or  crypt  of 
the  cathedral  to  a  new  sculptured  marble  tomb.  The  sarcopha- 
gus was  of  solid  silver,  with  double  crystal  plates  inserted  in  the 
sides  and  cover,  exposing  to  view  the  skeleton ;  the  bones  were 
joined  together  with  silver  wire,  and  reposed  upon  a  couch  of 
silk  and  velvet.  The  rush  of  the  multitude  was  so  great,  I  could 
scarcely  gain  access  to  the  altar ;  men  and  women  were  there  with 
rosaries  and  handkerchiefs  in  their  hands;  and  a  priest  in  attend- 
ance was  busily  engaged  in  passing  these  articles  over  the  relics 
of  the  consecrated  saint ;  after  which,  when  communicated  to  an 
afflicted  part,  they  were  thought  to  give  relief. 


VERONA   AND  VICENZA.  443 

The  beautiful  plains  through  which  I  passed  are  irrigated  at 
will  with  abundance  of  water ;  the  aqueducts  were  lined  with 
willows,  and  other  trees,  affording  shade  the  entire  length  of  the 
road  between  the  two  cities.  The  rice  plantations  are  beautiful 
indeed,  surpassing  in  verdure  anything  1  have  seen  of  the  kind 
in  the  Carolinas  or  East  Indies ;  but  the  miasma  is  productive  of 
fevers,  and  the  peasantry  live  in  villages  remote  from  the  inun- 
dated fields/ 

Each  city  has  its  objects  of  interest.  Padua  boasts  of  the  villa 
of  Petrarch  in  the  vicinit}^ ;  its  stupendous  church  of  the  patron 
saint  Antonio;  its  University  with  fifteen  hundred  students, 
bearing  upon  its  walls  the  antique  armorial  insignia  of  the  many 
noble  youths  educated  there;  its  library,  its  anatomical  collec- 
tion, and  fifty-five  thousand  inhabitants, 

Verona,  rather  more  populous,  has  its  attractions;  its  old 
amphitheatre,  in  the  same  style  as  the  Coliseum  at  Eome,  one 
thousand  four  hundred  and  seventy  feet  in  circumference,  with 
forty-five  rows  of  seats,  and  with  places  for  twenty-five  thousand 
persons,  is  in  remarkable  preservation ;  in  the  arena  is  now 
erected  a  Teatro  Diurno.  These  day-theatres  are  without  roofs ; 
the  performance  commences  at  six  p.m.,  and  is  generally  fre- 
quented. The  tomb  of  Juliet,  in  an  old  convent,  is  only  of  inte- 
rest for  the  romantic  story  of  herself  and  of  her  lover  Eomeo. 
The  house  of  the  Capulets  also  exists.  The  position  of  Verona, 
divided  by  the  river  Etsch,  with  its  high  hills  strongly  fortified 
by  the  Austrians,  is  almost  impregnable  withal,  and  picturesque ; 
it  has  become,  with  its  garrison,  a  second  Mantua. 

Vicenza,  a  smaller  city  of  thirty -five  thousand  population,  has 
its  antique  public  square,  government  house,  palace  of  justice, 
with  arcades  worth  looking  in  upon,  and  a  fine  view  from  the 
summit  of  a  hill  in  the  suburbs.  A  covered  gallery  some  two 
thousand  feet  in  length  leads  the  pilgrim  to  the  convent  of  the 
Madonna  of  the  Mountain.  An  antique  Olympic  theatre  in  the 
city  attracts  strangers.  From  the  benches  of  the  amphitheatre 
I  was  struck  with  a  singular  perspective  receding  from  the  stage 
of  a  miniature  city  of  Greekish  architecture,  representing  streets, 
houses,  and  professions.  While  examining  the  old  structure  of 
wood,  decorated  with  ornamental  figures,  I  made  some  compari- 
sons which  were  responded  to  by  my  conductress,  a  beautiful 
girl  of  light  complexion  and  golden  locks.     Upon  questioning 


444  MILAX. 

tlie  girl,  I  found  tliat  she  spoke  English,  altliougli  of  Italian 
birth ;  every  city  and  province  has  its  peculiar  tongue,  and  only 
the  educated  sj)eak  Italian.  It  is  in  Tuscany  alone  where  the 
language  is  spoken  in  its  purity.  I  have  been  in  dining  rooms 
where  there  were  several  groups  at  the  tables  speaking  Neapoli- 
tan, Genoese,  Milanese,  and  other  dialects,  without  understanding 
each  other,  yet  all  were  Italians.  One  can  well  conceive  the 
difficulty  of  regenerating  a  people  where  such  objections  to  unity 
are  met  with,  and  where  local  j^rejudices  are  so  strong.  One 
fine  morning  in  Milan,  twenty-one  guns  announced  to  us  the 
telegraphic  news  from  Vienna  of  the  birth  of  a  princess  to  the 
House  of  Austria.  Notwithstanding  the  disappointment  (a 
prince  had  been  hoped  for),  great  preparations  having  been 
made  at  the  Duomo  for  the  celebration,  it  came  off  in  this  world- 
wide renowned  edifice  with  the  usual  pomp  and  ceremony  of 
church,  civil,  and  military  parade. 

The  Corso  Francesco  in  Milan  has  many  elegant  cafes,  which 
were  quite  desolate  for  two  or  three  days,  in  consequence  of  the 
seizure  of  foreign  journals  giving  the  debates  in  England  upon 
Italian  affairs.  The  old  papers  were  read  and  re-read,  and  almost 
worn  through;  the  evident  disgust  and  under-toned  denunciation 
of  the  powers  that  be  could  not  pass  unobserved. 


CXVII. 

Zurich,  Aug.  16,  1856. 

Leaving  the  beautiful  lake  of  Como,  with  its  lovely  villas, 
cultivated  gardens,  vineyards,  and  picturesque  views,  I  started 
for  Switzerland,  via  the  lake  of  Lugano. 

The  Austrian  frontier  of  Lombardy  is  soon  reached,  and  one 
finds  himself  in  the  Canton  of  Ticino.  Upon  crossing  the  bridge 
of  Chiaso  into  Swiss  territory,  one  soon  discovers  the  effect  of 
free  government  and  liberal  principles  in  the  public  school- 
houses,  in  the  culture  and  manufacture  of  tobacco,  in  the  relief 
from  annoyances  of  passports  and  examination  of  luggage.  A 
quarter  of  a  mile  from  there,  tobacco  is  a  monopoly,  and  its 
growth  is  prohibited ;  here  it  is  produced  in  considerable  quan. 
titles,  and  manufactured  for  exportation. 

The  town  of  Lugano,  prettily  situated  upon  the  borders  of  the 


THE   ST.    BERXAEDINO.  445 

]ake,  surrounded  by  romantic  scener}^,  is  considerably  frequented, 
and  foreign  journals  may  be  read  there  without  the  intermeddling 
of  the  censor-police. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake  is  the  village  of  Castigleone, 
in  Austrian  territory,  at  the  foot  of  a  steep  mountain;  it  is 
accessible  only  by  land,  over  the  Swiss  high-road.  Here  the 
people  enjoy  comparative  freedom,  and  are  exempt  from  military 
proscription  ;  but  in  these  mountainous  regions  of  Switzerland 
many  women  are  afflicted  with  huge  swellings  of  the  neck, 
which  are  frightful  to  behold,  and  are  attributed  to  the  water  of 
the  country. 

Among  the  twenty-two  Cantons  of  Switzerland,  there  were 
four  which  I  had  never  seen ;  neither  had  I  yet  passed  the 
Splugen  and  St.  Bernardino,  which  are  of  great  interest ;  so  I  was 
induced  to  finish  the  work.  The  St.  Bernardino  must  not  be 
confounded  with  the  great  St.  Bernard,  which  I  passed  some 
years  since  on  mule-back,  with  my  guide,  in  the  early  part  of 
the  month  of  June,  among  the  avalanches  and  snow  banks 
twenty  feet  deep,  and  was  happy  to  find  refuge  among  the 
monks  of  the  convent,  who  greeted  me  as  the  first  traveller  of 
the  season,  and  were  longing  for  the  news  of  Rome  during  the 
Holy  Week.  The  Simplon  I  had  formerly  crossed  in  the  month 
of  October,  upon  a  sled  for  one  person,  made  of  hoop-poles,  with 
my  trunk  lashed  thereto.  Mount  Cenis  I  passed  two  years  since, 
on  my  way  from  Turin  to  Chamberry,  under  favorable  circum- 
stances, without  exposure  or  fatigue,  and  now  with  the  lateness 
of  the  season  I  had  nothing  but  beautiful  scenery  to  expect,  four 
months  of  the  year  being  considered  free  from  danger. 

From  Lugano  I  proceeded  to  Bellinzona,  in  an  open  carriage, 
having  a  fine  view  of  the  valleys  and  lakes  in  the  distance  below ; 
it  was  a  five  hours  ride.  We  departed  at  midnight.  With  the 
early  dawn  we  found  ourselves  climbing  up  the  zigzag  mountain 
sides,  among  its  scattered  villages,  and  houses  of  rude  stone  con- 
struction, whose  slate-roofs  were  secured  from  the  high  winds  by 
huge  stones;  the  shepherds  were  in  simple  costume,  tending  their 
herds  of  goats  and  sheep  ;  the  limited  culture  of  grain  was  still 
green,  while  in  the  valleys  it  was  already  harvested.  We 
breakfasted  at  a  village  of  five  or  six  houses,  mostly  inns,  near 
the  summit  of  the  mountain,  covered  with  snow,  where  the 
stunted  pines  show  that  vegetation  nearly  ceases.     This  place, 


446  CANTON   GRISON. 

called  Bernardino,  had  some  one  hundred  and  fifty  visitors 
making  use  of  the  waters,  which  are  strongly  charged  with  iron ; 
this  and  bracing  mountain  air  and  climbing  walks  are  particularly 
strengthening  for  some  constitutions.  The  mountain  once  passed, 
the  gorges  and  ravines  of  the  Splugen  and  Via  Mala  are  singu- 
larly grand  and  beautiful,  with  every  variety  of  romantic  and 
picturesque  scenery.  At  one  moment  I  could  imagine  myself,  on 
some  accounts,  upon  the  mountains  of  Chili,  from  the  winding 
and  circuitous  road ;  then  again  the  descent  into  one  valley  for 
some  miles,  brought  to  mind  our  own  Alleghanies  from  Frost- 
burgh  to  Cumberland.  But  the  Via  Mala  caps  the  climax  for 
its  excavations,  bridges,  stone-covered  arches  and  tunnels,  deep 
ravines  and  precipices,  where  the  head- waters  of  the  river  Rhine, 
gushing  and  foaming  between  high  ledges  of  rocks,  may  almost 
be  leaped.  The  warm  rays  of  the  sun,  the  cheerful  villages,  the 
grape  fields,  the  farmers  gathering  their  grain,  the  disappearance 
of  the  chestnut-trees,  upon  the  fruit  of  which  the  mountain 
peasantry  subsist,  the  throwing  off  of  overcoats,  the  Italian 
tongue  replaced  by  the  German  and  Swiss,  all  show  conclusively 
that  we  are  in  the  valley,  and  across  the  Alps. 

The  Rhine  receives  another  branch  at  Reichenau,  and  requires 
another  bridge  to  cross  it ;  this  bridge  is  directly  in  front  of  the 
chateau  where  Louis  Philippe  served  two  years  as  a  schoolmaster. 

We  are  in  the  Canton  Grison,  the  largest  of  Switzerland,  and 
at  five  P.M.  we  find  ourselves  at  Chur,  a  post  town  of  five 
thousand  inhabitants,  in  a  lovely  country.  After  eighteen 
hours  ride  from  Bcllinzona  we  were  disposed  to  rest,  and  take 
a  few  baths  at  Pfaffers,  some  miles  beyond. 

The  place  just  named  has  become  somewhat  celebrated  of  late 
years  among  the  Germans,  and  is  much  resorted  to  for  its  healing 
waters,  and  its  elevated  position  in  the  mountain  gorges.  There 
were  some  two  hundred  and  fifty  visitors.  The  Duchess  of 
Orleans,  with  her  family,  passed  the  summer  at  Ragatz,  and 
now  Count  Nesselrode  is  expected. 

From  the  last  point  named,  in  the  Canton  San  Gall,  I 
proceeded  across  the  country  to  the  Wallenstadt  Lake,  upon 
which  steamers  are  employed,  and  by  diligence  to  the  head 
of  Lake  Zurich.  Lake  Zurich,  with  its  well-cultivated  borders, 
numerous  villages,  and  many  steamers,  I  have  seen  before ;  still 
the  whole  trip  was  full  of  interest.     Our  boat  was  crowded  with 


SWISS   TURN-VEREIN.  447 

tourists  of  all  races.  One  heard  all  the  different  languages, 
a  perfect  Babel,  or  confusion  of  tongues,  which  is  not  to  be 
wondered  at,  as  the  present  railroad  and  steamer  facilities  bring 
at  this  season  of  the  year  multitudes  from  all  sources  over  the 
beaten  tracks  and  most  accessible  parts  of  the  Swiss  territory. 
Among  our  passengers  was  a  party  of  young  men  from  one  of 
the  Swiss  Cantons,  with  their  arms,  flags,  and  distinguishing 
badges,  going  to  the  Tnrn-Verein  yearly  festival,  at  Winterthur, 
a  two  hours  ride  by  rail  from  this  city.  I  was  curious  to 
witness  this  celebration,  represented  by  delegations  or  companies 
from  the  twenty-two  Cantons  of  Switzerland.  A  large  building 
was  put  at  the  disposition  of  the  Union,  with  an  inclosure  in 
the  rear,  and  stages  were  erected  for  ladies  and  gentlemen  who 
desired  to  see  the  gj^mnastic  exercises,  leaping,  jumping,  climb- 
ing, etc.  A  tower  was  constructed,  covered  by  the  colors  of  all 
the  Cantons.  The  prizes,  many  wrought  by  the  ladies,  were 
suspended  within ;  judges  were  appointed  to  decide  upon  the 
merits  of  the  performers ;  and  it  must  be  admitted  that  among 
the  number,  which  was  upwards  of  five  hundred,  some  extra- 
ordinary feats  of  agility  were  performed.  The  free  use  of  arms 
and  target  firing,  which  I  have  noticed,  and  in  which  they  are 
expert,  and  which  would  not  be  allowed  in  despotic  countries, 
reminds  one  of  home,  and  the  freedom  of  the  people  there. 

Switzerland  has  also  its  Baden,  which  may  be  reached  by  rail 
in  one  hour  from  this  city.  It  is  a  charming  place  of  resort  for 
those  who  cannot  go  to  the  banks  of  the  Ehine.  The  German 
watering  places  have  more  attractions,  and  the  waters  are  more 
salutary. 

I  am  desirous  of  seeing  the  upper  portion  of  the  Cantons  St. 
G-all  and  Appenzell,  after  which  I  purpose  taking  the  Lake 
of  Constance  via  Schaff  hausen  into  Grermany,  where  I  hope  to  use 
the  waters  of  Wiesbaden,  which  were  of  service  to  me  the  early 
part  of  last  summer. 


448  THE  CANTOX  OF  APPEXZELL. 


CXYIII. 

Wiesbaden,  Germany,  Sept.  15,  1856. 

Zurich  is  not  only  justly  celebrated  for  its  lovely  position 
and  beautiful  lake,  and  its  good  hotels,  but  for  its  increasing  silk 
trade,  wliicli  rivals  to  some  extent  that  of  Lyons  in  France. 
It  now  has  connexion  by  railway  with  the  industrious  canton 
of  St,  Gall  and  the  Lake  of  Constance. 

I  was  struck  with  the  marked  progress  the  Swiss  have  made 
in  the  manufacture  of  cotton,  and  noticed  in  several  places 
many  large  factories,  four  and  five  stories  high,  comparing 
favorably  with  the  mills  in  the  villages  of  New  England.  The 
raw  material  used  in  the  eastern  counties  is  mostly  Egyptian ; 
transportation  is  long  and  tedious,  via  Trieste  or  Venice  over 
the  railway  and  mountain  routes. 

St.  Gall  is  appreciated  by  the  ladies.  Its  ten  thousand  popu- 
lation live  and  thrive,  and  its  merchants  grow  rich,  out  of  its 
fancy  embroidery  trade,  now  greatly  extended  in  our  country. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  Canton  of  Appenzell,  situated  from 
one  thousand  to  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  Lake 
Constance,  are  mostly  engaged  in  this  kind  of  labor.  The 
Canton  is  nearly  equally  divided  between  Protestants  and 
Catholics,  who  live  separately,  scarcely  ever  intermarrying,  and 
pursuing  different  styles  of  work.  The  country  is  a  grazing  one ; 
the  people  subsist  mostly  upon  cheese  and  milk.  The  supply 
of  wheat  and  rye  comes  from  Bavaria,  Wirtemburg,  and 
Austrian  Tyrol,  and  from  Roorschach,  upon  the  Lake. 

It  is  curious  to  see  the  occupants  of  all  the  houses  in  the 
villages  and  in  the  country,  boys  and  girls,  men  and  women, 
when  not  engaged  at  other  work,  busy  with  their  forms  and 
patterns  before  them,  plying  the  needle.  In  the  villages  the 
children  commence  at  eight  years  old,  but  in  the  country  they 
put  them  at  it  at  the  age  of  six.  As  persons  advance  in  years, 
and  their  sight  becomes  weak,  they  perform  coarse  work.  The 
houses  are  all  constructed  with  a  line  of  front  windows,  close 
together,  for  the  admission  of  light.  The  gain  derived  from  this 
kind  of  labor  is  about  ten  cents  per  da}^,  upon  the  average.  The 
Catholic  portion  of  the  Canton  still  adhere  to  all  descriptions  of 
light  work ;    the  others  turn  their  attention  more  to  A^orhang 


ST.    GEBHARD.  449 

Stuckerei,  or  curtain  embroidery,  dresses,  and  under-garraents, 
and  succeed  better.  One  of  tlie  worst  features  in  this  early 
application  is  the  entire  deprivation  of  education,  and  the  conse- 
quent ignorance  of  the  masses. 

Weisbad  is  an  agreeable,  quiet  resort  in  that  mountainous 
country,  with  good  hotels,  shady  walks,  pleasant  company,  but 
with  little  virtue  in  its  waters.  A  number  of  the  party  who  had 
not  climbed  mountains,  and  seen  the  sun  rise,  started  off"  at  three 
A.M.  for  a  peak  some  thousands  of  feet  high.  My  souvenirs  of 
Norwegian,  Chilian,  Teneriffe,  Spanish,  and  Sicilian  sunrises 
and  sunsets  were  still  vivid,  and  I  declined  the  invitation. 

A  very  excellent  view  is  had  from  a  mountain  called  Peter 
and  Paul,  a  few  miles  from  St.  Galls ;  this  view  extends  over 
the  Lake  of  Constance,  Bregenz  in  Tyrol,  Lindau  in  Bavaria,. 
Friedrichshafen  in  Wiirtemberg,  and  Rorschach,  which  is  a  part 
of  St.  Gall,  six  miles  distant.  At  Bregenz,  the  St.  Gebhardsberg, 
or  mountain,  a  place  of  pilgrimage,  is  the  most  frequented.  The 
great  festival  is  on  the  birthday  of  St.  Gebhard  (August  27), 
who,  in  the  12th  century,  was  Bishop  of  Constance,  and  whose 
history  is  rather  interesting.  The  church,  built  upon  the  site 
of  the  old  family  castle,  was  commenced  by  a  hermit  in  the  year 
1670.  The  ascent  is  rather  fatiguing  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour,  but  one  is  well  repaid  for  the  labor.  A  magnificent  view 
is  obtained  from  its  summit  over  the  lake  and  surrounding 
country.     Here  the  Rhine  flows  into  the  lake. 

At  Lindau,  where  I  once  had  debarked  en  route  for  Augsburg 
and  Munich,  a  tedious  mail-coach  ride,  I  now  found  the  railroad 
complete,  and  at  Friedrichshafen  another  to  conduct  one  to  Ulm 
and  Stuttgart,  over  a  road  which  I  had  travelled  formerly  at 
snail's  peace.  When  I  was  first  in  Europe,  in  1840 — 42,  and 
travelled  pretty  generally  over  the  continent,  I  found  only  six 
pieces  of  railway,  and  now  we  have  a  perfect  network  in  all 
directions ;  except  in  Spain,  Southern  Italy,  Greece,  Turkey,  and 
the  extreme  northern  regions,  facilities  are  constantly  multi- 
plying. The  transport  from  one  point  to  another  is  without  loss 
of  time,  as  formerly ;  consequently,  the  tourist  has  more  oppor- 
tunities to  see  the  cities. 

The  length  of  the  lake  from  Bregenz  to  Constanz  is  about 
thirty-eight  miles ;  then,  by  steamer,  you  take  the  meandering 
Rhine,  as  it  flows  out  through  the  valleys,  with  its  hills,  chateaux, 

29 


450  NIGHT   ON   THE   KHINE. 

and  vineyards,  to  the  town  of  Schafifbausen,  near  the  falls. 
Coming  down  the  lake,  before  landing  at  Friedrichshafen,  we  met 
the  Queen  of  Wiirtemberg  and  suite,  on  a  pleasure  excursion. 
The  steamer  was  decorated  with  flags,  and  salutes  of  cannons 
were  exchanged.  The  presence  of  the  royal  family  in  the  palace 
and  pretty  grounds  forbids  the  entrance  of  strangers,  but  the 
gate-keeper,  in  the  absence  of  his  royal  mistress,  could  not  resist 
the  silver-key,  and  conducted  me  throughout.  Here  royalty  is 
inclosed  in  high  stone  walls,  with  an  ample  park,  trees,  shrubbery, 
and  flowers,  bubbling  fountains,  and  elevated  shady  look-outs 
upon  the  margin  of  the  beautiful  sheet  of  water;  surrounded 
with  luxuries  and  liveried  servants,  it  is  unconscious  probably 
of  the  want  and  privation  of  many  within  a  stone's  throw.  But 
if  Germany  is  satisfied  to  support  thirty-two  princes  and  poten- 
tates in  pomp  and  extravagance,  we  have  no  right  to  complain. 

The  city  of  Constanz  has  nothing  of  great  interest,  aside  from 
its  antique  cathedral,  built  in  1052,  and  now  in  process  of  resto- 
ration, and  the  old  building  and  saloon  of  the  famous  Council  of 
1414-1418,  with  their  contents. 

We  left  there  at  twelve  a.m.  and  arrived  at  Schaffhausen  at 
five  P.M.  Passengers  dine  on  deck  a  la  carte^  and  enjoy  the 
varied  views  in  passing. 

I  found  great  changes  since  my  last  visit  to  the  falls  of  the 
Rhine.  The  huge  rock  upon  which  stands  the  castle,  containing 
picture  galleries,  sale  rooms  and  Camera  Obscura,  has  been  tun- 
nelled, and  the  stone  arches  for  the  railroad  bridge  are  being 
constructed  across  the  river.  We  visited  all  the  attractive  points 
of  view,  and  shortly  after  ferrying  across  with  our  light  skiff,  in 
the  misty  clouds  of  spray  and  the  deafening  roar,  and  getting  in 
the  large  Hotel  "Webber,  on  the  summit  of  the  hill  directly  in 
front  of  the  waterfall,  there  came  up  a  severe  thunderstorm,  and 
in  the  dulness  of  the  night,  the  repeated  flashes  of  lightning 
lent  additional  interest  to  the  scene.  The  weather  cleared  up, 
however,  and  the  full  moon's  rays  gave  us  all  the  advantages  of 
a  night  view.  An  hour's  ride  brings  one  by  diligence  to  the 
frontier  of  the  Duchy  of  Baden,  and  seven  hours  more,  to  Frie- 
burg,  which  is  one  of  the  cleanest  towns  I  have  met  with. 
Streams  of  water  course  through  all  the  streets.  The  Cathedral, 
built  by  the  celebrated  Erwin  von  Steinbach,  the  architect  of 
the  Strasburo;  edifice,  with  a  tower  almost  as  high  as  that  of  the 


MUNSTER.  451 

Cathedral ;  the  illuminated  glass  windows ;  things  there  attract 
even  when  one  is  fatigued  with  works  of  art. 

Here  we  strike  a  lightning  line,  or  '■'■  Schnell  Zug^''  which  car- 
ries one  to  Baden-Baden. 

This  being  my  third  visit,  I  was  not  induced  to  make  a  long 
sejour^  but  came  by  rail  to  Frankfort  on  the  Main.  I  spent  a 
day  or  two  at  Homburg,  in  the  vicinity.  My  object  was  to  get 
to  this  place  to  avail  myself  of  the  benefit  of  these  waters  for 
bathing  and  drinking ;  and  here  I  am,  up  at  six  in  the  morning, 
and  at  the  hot,  boiling  spring,  guzzling  my  three  or  four  glasses, 
at  intervals  of  a  short  walk,  with  no  lack  of  company.  Then 
comes  a  bath,  repose  for  a  while,  warmly  covered,  and  afterwards 
a  light  breakfast.  There  are  two  table  d''h6t€s^  at  one  and  four 
P.M.,  and  music  in  the  morning  at  the  Healing  Fountain,  and  in 
the  afternoon  at  the  Kursaal,  with  its  beautiful  shady  walks 
through  the  extended  grounds. 


CXIX. 

Hanover,  Nov.  15,  1856. 

I  CAME  down  the  Rhine  to  Cologne  and  Dusseldorf,  and  took 
the  road  to  Elberfeld,  a  large  German  manufacturing  place, 
w^orth  looking  at.  Its  trade  in  woollen,  cotton,  and  silk  goods 
amounts  annually  to  some  twelve  millions  of  our  currency,  and 
is  well  known  to  our  importers. 

The  cross  road  took  me  to  Dortmund,  another  manufticturing 
town,  on  the  main  road  leading  to  this  capital.  Stopping  at 
Ham,  a  branch  road  to  the  north  conducted  me  to  the  old  catho- 
lic city  of  Munster,  which  I  had  never  seen,  and  gave  me  an 
opportunity  of  visiting  some  acquaintances  with  whom  I  had 
crossed  the  Atlantic.  The  gothic  antiquated  town  hall  of  Mun- 
ster, with  its  saloon,  memorable  for  the  Westphalian  treatj-  in 
1648,  is  of  unusual  interest,  as  well  as  its  cathedral,  three  hun- 
dred and  sixty  feet  long,  and  one  hundred  and  twentj^-five  feet 
wide,  with  two  towers.  Upon  the  tower  of  the  St.  Lamberti 
church,  two  hundred  feet  high,  were  placed  in  three  cages  the 
corpses  of  the  leaders  of  the  rebellious  Anabaptists.  The  arches 
and  colonnades  of  the  houses  of  the  principal  street  are  not  unlike 
those  of  Bologna;  they  afford  protection  from  sun  and  rain,  and 


452  BLIND   KIXG   OF   HANOVER, 

give  the  city  a  peculiar  aspect.  Munster  has  a  population  of 
twentj^-five  thousand.  Many  public  and  private  literary  and 
charitable  institutions,  and  agreeable  suburban  walks,  make  it  a 
pleasant  residence. 

A  few  hours  ride  brought  me  to  the  royal  Prussian  Salt  Baths 
of  Rehme,  whose  Director  and  wife  I  had  promised  on  an  ocean 
passage  to  call  upon,  should  I  ever  find  myself  again  in  this  part 
of  Germany.  The  grounds  are  well  laid  out,  and  large  improve- 
ments are  in  progress.  The  mineral  salt  works  in  the  neighbor- 
hood are  supplied  with  water  from  a  depth  of  two  thousand  two 
hundred  and  fifty  feet,  sufficiently  warm  for  the  supply  of  the 
Baths.  The  season  was  about  over,  and  most  of  the  guests  had 
departed. 

An  excursion  to  Minden,  ujjon  the  river  Weser,  five  hours 
from  Bremen,  with  a  population  of  twelve  thousand ;  charming 
walks  and  drives  in  the  vicinity,  with  old  friends,  with  reminis- 
cences of  mutual  dangers  escaped  at  sea,  and  the  occurrences  and 
events  of  the  interim  ;  so  a  couple  of  days  slipped  by  agreeably, 
and  I  found  myself  again  on  the  road  for  this  city,  the  residence 
of  the  King  of  Hanover,  where  I  made  a  halt  some  two  years 
since,  of  which  I  gave  you  some  details  at  the  time. 

The  deceased  King  Ernest,  who  had  a  great  passion  for 
horses,  had  one  of  the  finest  stables  in  Europe.  The  present 
king  is  blind,  but  he  rides  a  horse  handsomely.  In  company 
with  one  of  his  councillors,  I  met  him  a  few  days  since  in  a  deep 
wood,  his  steed  on  a  gallop,  and  his  adjutant  beside  him.  The 
adjutant  held  a  check-rein  attached,  and  gave  the  signal  for  a 
salute,  when  the  king  made  a  graceful  bow ;  his  infirmity 
would  scarcely  be  noticed  b}^  a  stranger. 

When  last  in  Austria  I  noticed  the  use  of  horse  flesh  as  food, 
and  now  I  find  its  introduction  here  also.  I  have  before  me  a 
newspaper  advertisement,  with  the  figure  of  a  capering  horse, 
and  three  hands,  with  index  figures  pointing  to  a  plate  of 
prepared  food,  with  the  announcement  that  at  the  slaughter- 
house stall  may  be  had  daily  tender  horse-flesh,  liver,  and  stewed 
meats,  with  warm  strengthening  sauces,  at  all  hours.  Of  course 
the  poor  avail  themselves  of  this  supply  at  low  prices. 


GEOWTH   OF   THE    UNITED   STATES.  453 


18  5  7. 

cxx. 

Berlin,  Prussia,  Jan.  7,  1857. 

After  an  absence  of  nearly  two  years  I  find  myself  once 
again  in  the  Prussian  capital,  and  when  I  recognise  my  former 
friends  and  acquaintances  who  have  remained  stationary,  and 
answer  their  interrogatories,  I  can  scarcely  believe  that  most  parts 
of  Europe  have  been  revisited  by  me  within  this  short  period ;  the 
Atlantic  crossed  and  re-crossed;  the  head  waters  of  our  great 
Mississippi  gazed  upon ;  and  I  return  here  without  finding  any 
noticeable  changes.  I  tell  them  from  my  own  experience,  that 
in  1844  the  prairies  were  crossed  from  the  head  of  Illinois  river 
navigation  to  Chicago,  and  from  Galena  to  Milwaukie,  in  ordi- 
nary coaches,  with  indifferent  accommodations  for  man  and 
beast;  that  wild  waving  grass  and  flowers  bounded  the  horizon, 
and  scarcely  a  sound  was  heard  except  the  cries  of  the  wolf  and 
prairie  hen,  when  the  places  named  were  villages.  Then  I  tell 
them  what  great  cities,  with  teeming  population,  I  found  in  their 
stead  during  the  past  year,  with  lines  of  railway,  expanding  like 
arteries  from  the  human  heart,  spreading  life  and  activity  in  all 
directions.  If  they  are  inclined  to  doubt  statements  which 
appear  fabulous,  the  fortunate  presence  of  a  famous  bill  of  fare, 
of  the  Chicago  Hotel,  gives  demonstrative  evidence  of  the  pro- 
gress of  civilization. 

The  Americans  are  becoming  notorious  on  the  continent  as 
extensive  travellers,  which  is  not  surprising,  as  our  country  is 
so  extended,  and  the  opportunities  for  locomotion  are  so  great. 
Daring  my  first  visit  to  Egypt  it  was  rare  to  meet  one  of  my 
countrymen  ;  but  five  years  since  I  was  informed  at  Grand  Cairo 
that  more  of  them,  than  of  English,  had  gone  uj?  the  Nile  that 
winter. 

Our  political  system  is  to  Europeans  an  enigma.  A  well- 
dressed  person,  at  a  public  table,  asked  me  how  large  a  court 
Buchanan  would  have,  and  the  emolument  he  would  receive ; 


454  CHRISTMAS. 

and  seemed  greatly  surprised  that  we  had  no  court,  and  that  the 
salary  of  twenty -five  thousand  dollars  per  annum  would  not  equal 
the  livery  expenses  of  some  crowned  heads ;  and  that  the  emolu- 
ments of  four  years  would  not  equal  the  christening  expenses 
of  the  imperial  infant  of  France ;  that  we  travel  without  pass- 
ports ;  that  the  press  is  as  free  as  the  air  we  breathe ;  and  that 
our  national  army  is  scarcely  seen  or  known. 

Christmas-day  I  found  myself  the  only  stranger  at  the  table, 
in  a  family  gathering  of  twenty-five  persons.  The  Germans 
dine  much  earlier  than  the  French.  At  half  past  two  p.m.,  an 
abundant  repast,  with  various  kinds  of  Ehine  wine,  was  served, 
enlivened  with  the  usual  touching  of  glasses,  and  toasts.  At 
the  close  of  the  dinner,  the  host  struck  up  a  hochlied,  or  hymn, 
accompanied  by  one  of  the  ladies  on  the  piano,  which  hymn 
was  followed  by  shaking  of  hands  and  congratulations.  The 
gentlemen  retired  to  smoke,  and  the  ladies  amused  themselves 
with  dancing  and  waltzing.  An  hour  later,  we  were  seated 
again  at  the  table,  with  coffee,  conversation,  and  recitations  from 
the  younger  members  of'  the  family.  There  was  a  constant 
change  of  diversions:  juvenile  violin  players,  exquisite  per- 
formers upon  the  piano,  vocal  music,  dancing,  tableaux  vivants, 
&c.,  kept  the  company  incessantly  occupied  until  about  half- 
past  ten,  when  abendhrod  was  announced.  This  meal  (literally 
evening  bread)  consisted  of  a  copious  hot  supper,  not  unlike  the 
dinner,  and  required  a  stronger  stomach  than  mine  to  digest,  at 
that  late  hour.  At  midnight,  with  cordial  salutations,  after 
having  enjoyed  every  moment  of  time,  the  company  separated. 

When  the  bulletins  announced  that  the  Eisbahn  was  in  condi- 
tion, hundreds  of  persons  of  both  sexes  might  be  seen  upon  the  ice 
of  the  Thiergarien^  or  Royal  Park.  A  small  fee  admits  you  on 
the  ice,  where  seats  are  prepared,  and  gardrobe  for  clothing ; 
supplies  of  skates  are  on  hire,  with  servants  to  strap  them  ; 
there  are  chair-sleds  for  those  who  do  not  skate,  or  for  lady  inva- 
lids, drawn  by  gentlemen  skaters ;  and  hosts  of  fashionable  and 
beautiful  city  ladies,  gracefully  waltzing  and  performing  various 
evolutions,  or  gliding  rapidly  in  groups  over  the  frozen  surface ; 
it  is  a  pretty  and  characteristic  scene  of  winter  life  in  this  region. 

With  the  present  railroad  and  steam  advantages,  travellers  are 
brought  together  singularly.  At  the  hotel,  a  heavy -whiskered 
gentleman  at  my  right  opened  a  conversation  in  German — the 


GERMAN"  LANGUAGE.  455 

language  spoken  at  the  table — which  was  for  a  time  continued, 
when  it  struck  me  suddenly  who  he  was,  and  I  asked  if  he 
recognised  me  ?  I  received  a  negative  reply.  I  asked  if  he 
had  travelled  in  Egypt  ?  He  answered,  "  Yes,  but  many  years 
since."  "  True,"  I  responded  ;  "  you  called  upon  me  in  Jaffa, 
in  the  Holy  Land.  You  made  the  passage  to  Alexandria  with 
us ;  you  are  an  American,"  and  I  called  him  by  name.  We 
were  both  mutually  surprised  and  delighted. 

I  notice  across  the  street,  outside  of  the  double  window  sashes, 
heavy  coarse  curtains  drawn  up,  which  are  lowered  at  night  to 
protect  from  cold  and  storms.  What  are  the  white  and  colored 
objects  hanging  against  the  glass,  and  what  do  the  flower-vases 
contain  ?  They  are  a  counterpart  of  the  porcelain  variegated 
transparencies  suspended  from  mine,  with  similar  tulips  ;  but  it 
strikes  me  that  my  two  India  rubber  trees,  with  their  long  green 
leaves,  are  more  attractive.  The  people  are  very  fond  of  these 
window  decorations. 

The  droschki  drivers,  thickly  clad,  are  dozing  upon  their 
seats.  Here  comes  a  customer.  The  driver  gives  him  a  ticket, 
as  he  enters,  with  the  number  of  his  vehicle,  in  case  of  reclama- 
tion, in  default  of  which  he  is  amenable  to  the  police.  He 
receives  so  many  checks  from  his  employer  daily,  and  is  respon- 
sible for  them. 

Our  American  ladies  are  shocked  at  seeing  women  sawing 
wood,  carrying  coal,  making  mortar,  working  upon  the  land, 
and  performing  all  sorts  of  manual  labor.  A  pair  of  harnessed 
cows  before  a  wagon  containing  five  or  six  ruddy-faced,  thick- 
waisted,  bare-headed,  or  cap-covered,  country  costumed  hauerin- 
nen,  or  peasant  women,  is  quite  a  ludicrous  sight. 

This  last  sentence,  I  notice,  partakes  a  little  of  the  German 
form  of  writing.  It  must  be  atmospheric.  In  the  works  of 
some  German  writers,  one  sometimes  reads  a  third  of  a  page 
before  finding  the  meaning  of  the  sentence,  the  construction  of 
the  language  having  the  advantage  of  keeping  up  and  increasing 
attention  to  the  end.  The  word  which  least  defines  the  subject 
is  placed  at  the  beginning  of  the  sentence.  Then  come  those 
words  which  define  it  in  a  higher  degree,  so  that  the  word  which 
most  determines  the  meaning  of  the  phrase,  is  at  the  end.  It  is 
one  of  the  richest  and  most  beautiful  of  living  languages  for  its 
literature,  but  exceedingly  difficult  to  acquire,  and  few  Germans 


456  BRESLAU. 

speak  their  language  grammaticallj.  Dialects  are  found  all  over 
Europe  ;  and  in  many  parts,  the  distance  of  a  few  miles  changes 
the  jiatois.  In  no  single  country,  for  its  extent,  is  a  language 
(notwithstanding  the  slang,  or  provincialisms)  so  generally 
well  spoken,  as  in  the  United  States,  With  a  knowledge  of 
English,  the  traveller  may  visit  all  parts  of  our  country,  with 
slight  exceptions,  and  hold  intercourse  with  all  classes,  which 
cannot  be  done  even  in  some  parts  of  Great  Britain. 

Unconsciously  this  letter  has  been  drawn  out  to  an  unusual 
length,  and  I  fancy  I  hear  you  cry  out,  "  Halten  sie  an !" 


CXXI. 

Breslau,  Silesia,  Feb.  10,  1857. 

On  my  way  south  to  the  Austrian  capital,  instead  of  taking 
my  former  route,  via  Dresden  and  Prague,  from  which  cities  you 
heard  from  me  two  years  since,  I  have  made  the  detour  to  this 
place  ostensibly  to  visit  a  travelling  acquaintance,  who  had 
passed  several  months  with  me  in  Turkey,  Greece,  Egypt,  and 
the  Holy  Land. 

Breslau,  with  its  suburbs,  has  a  population  of  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  thousand,  and  has  its  attractions  for  the  students, 
nine  hundred  of  whom  attend  the  University,  which  has  a 
public  library  of  three  hundred  thousand  volumes.  There  is  an 
interesting  Zoological  Museum,  some  antique  churches,  and  other 
objects  worth  seeing.  The  public  walks  upon  the  former  bastions, 
now  planted  with  trees,  with  views  upon  the  river  Oder,  whose 
branches  traverse  the  city,  are  quite  pretty,  but  fevers  are  the 
natural  result  there  in  summer.  It  is  a  bustling,  active,  trading 
city.  The  carnival  season  is  now  at  hand.  At  a  citizens'  masked 
and  unmasked  ball,  given  at  the  theatre,  I  noticed  more  variety 
of  costume,  more  characters  assumed  and  carried  out  with  more 
life  and  animation  than  is  generally  manifested  in  Germany  on 
similar  occasions.  I  was  struck  with  the  contrast,  having  in 
Berlin  recently  attended  the  first  of  a  series  of  three  balls,  given 
at  the  grand  opera-house,  and  attended  by  the  king  and  royal 
family.  The  attendance  consisted  only  of  those  whose  names 
guaranteed  the  privilege  of  a  ticket,  and  ladies  could  not  appear 
without  the  expenditure  of  large  sums  in  dress;  foreign  ministers. 


students'  duels.  457 

civil  and  military  officers,  were  covered  with  orders.  The  gal- 
leries, passages,  and  stairs,  as  well  as  the  rear  of  the  stage  and 
parterre,  which  were  planked  over,  were  converted  into  a  tropical 
garden  of  plants,  flowers,  and  festoons  of  laurel.  There  was  an 
excellent  orchestra,  and  the  supper  halls  were  well  garnished 
with  dainties  and  substantials.  The  quantities  of  diamonds, 
emeralds,  and  rubies,  with  the  scores  of  gas-lights,  dazzled  the 
eyes ;  the  value  of  these  baubles,  properly  applied,  would 
prevent  any  further  increase  of  taxation,  a  subject  which  is  now 
agitating  the  country.  The  ball  was  numerously  attended  by 
the  leading  nobility  and  the  whole  retinue  of  the  court ;  beauty 
and  ugliness  were  there  in  the  richest  and  most  extravagant  appa- 
rel. The  variety  of  characters  and  uniforms  in  the  waltz  and 
dance,  was  undoubtedly  calculated  to  strike  one  at  first  glance 
with  wonder  and  admiration,  but  with  a  certain  amount  of  re- 
straint ;  the  guests  did  not  seem  to  enjoy  themselves  very  much. 

I  adverted  in  my  last,  or  meant  to  if  I  did  not,  to  the  practice 
of  duelling  still  kept  up  by  the  German  students,  and  winked  at 
by  the  authorities,  and  even  the  professors  themselves,  who  not 
unfrequently  wear  the  marks  of  old  duels  upon  their  faces. 
Many  clubs  exist  among  these  youths,  whose  different  colored 
caps  denote  their  members.  They  have  their  different  places  of 
rendezvous  for  pastime,  drinking,  and  smoking. 

An  opportunity  presented  itself  recently  at  Berlin  to  witness 
this  foolish  and  shameful  spectacle,  which  some  consider  a  source 
of  amusement.  They  fight  for  fifteen  minutes,  unless  one  or  the 
other  cries  enough.  The  weapon  is  a  straight  sword,  somewhat 
over  three  feet  long,  with  a  sharp  blade ;  the  end  is  about  three 
fourths  of  an  inch  wide.  The  duellists  are  clad  in  a  leather 
suit,  the  whole  body  protected  except  the  head;  the  neck  is 
bound  with  a  scarf,  and  the  right  arm  heavily  bandaged  with 
cloths  ;  it  is  supported  by  a  second  during  a  halt,  while  a  third 
stands  with  a  sword  to  parry  side-blows.  Judges  give  the  word 
of  command,  keep  the  time,  and  decide  the  contest.  The 
students  of  both  corps  sit  and  stand  around,  smoking  their  pipes, 
without  manifesting  any  particular  concern,  further  than  regards 
the  manner  in  which  the  work  is  executed.  It  is  incumbent 
upon  each  member  to  pass  the  ordeal,  and  the  others  have  no 
hesitation  in  taking  a  hand  for  amusement.  A  cut  upon  the 
face  or  head,  sometimes  the  loss  of  an  eye,  or  a  broken  nose,  is 


458  VIENNA. 

not  unfrequently  the  result  of  this  barbarous  relic  of  the  daj^s  of 
chivalry.  I  am  happy  to  say  that  our  Americans,  with  twc 
exceptions,  avoid  this  foolish  exposure ;  one  of  whom  has  a  mark 
upon  his  face,  which  he  will  always  carry.  Disgusted  with  the 
whole  system,  I  was  glad  to  escape. 

The  German  railroad  companies  are  yet  far  behind  in  the  com- 
fort of  their  cars.  In  France,  the  coaches  are  heated  with 
vessels  of  hot  water  under  the  carpet ;  going  last  winter  from 
Paris  to  Marseilles,  I  found  it  as  comfortable  as  in  a  parlor. 
From  Berlin  to  this  place  I  noticed  that  only  the  ladies'  carriages 
were  warmed  with  bags  of  hot  sand ;  fortunately,  I  obtained  a 
seat  in  one  of  them.  I  learn  that  from  hence  to  Cracow,  and 
also  to  Vienna,  in  Austrian  territory,  they  are  not  warmed,  and 
shall  make  my  arrangements  accordingly.  The  people  in  these 
latitudes  in  winter  accustom  themselves  so  much  to  the  use  of 
furs  that  they  don't  seem  to  require  this  precaution. 

The  houses,  cafes,  and  places  of  amusement,  are  well  warmed, 
and  one  suffers  less  from  cold  than  in  northern  Italy. 

Since  the  release  of  the  royalists  from  the  Swiss  prisons  at 
Neufchatel,  and  the  anticipated  call  of  the  Prussian  Landwehr 
to  the  battle-field,  the  war  excitement  has  cooled  off,  and  the 
community  have  been  excited  with  the  judgment  and  execution 
of  Verger,  for  the  murder  of  the  Archbishop  of  Paris. 


CXXII. 

Vienna,  March  15,  185T. 
The  movements  and  doings  of  this  gay  and  mixed  population 
during  the  Fasching,  or  Carnival  season,  may  be  of  interest  to 
you.  I  notice  in  the  papers  that  in  the  city  proper  and  suburban 
cities,  there  have  been  given  in  all  over  one  thousand  public 
and  private  balls  during  the  festival  season.  The  corners 
of  many  of  the  streets  were  provided  with  transparent  lights, 
announcing  the  different  balls,  from  the  Citizens',  Jurists', 
Lawyers',  Professors'  and  Students',  to  the  Cab  Drivers'  and 
Servant-girls'.  It  seemed  as  if  the  chief  occupation  was  danc- 
ing, and  all  were  disposed  to  employ  the  time  until  the  begin- 
ning of  Lent,  when  the  famous  musical  Strauss  and  Sperl  Bands 
could  lay  down  their  instruments,  and  a  tired  population  repose 


ARRIVAL   OF   ROYALTY.  459 

their  wearied  limbs.  It  is  computed  tliat  an  inveterate  dancer 
here,  in  the  waltz  gallop  and  dance,  will  travel  over  several 
English  miles  of  surface  in  the  course  of  the  night.  The 
Burger  Ball,  given  in  the  Palace,  was  a  brilliant  affair ;  some 
two  thousand  five  hundred  persons  present.  In  the  absence 
of  the  Emperor  in  Italy,  his  father,  the  Archduke  Charles, 
represented  him.  Fanny  Ellsler,  the  danseuse  of  so  much 
notoriety,  who  is  now  a  resident  of  this  city,  was  among  the 
number  of  guests.  She  was  bedecked  with  diamonds,  and  was 
in  conversation  with  the  Archduke.  Prince  Metternicb,  the 
renowned  Austrian  statesman,  even  at  his  advanced  age,  was 
present.  Vienna  is  noted  for  its  beautiful  ladies;  they  belong 
to  a  variety  of  races,  the  city  being  a  concentrating  point, 
during  the  gay  season,  for  the  fair  daughters  of  Hungary,  and 
of  the  Bohemian,  Polish,  and  Italian  provinces. 

The  education  of  young  ladies  is  more  superficial  here  than 
with  us.  Music,  dancing,  and  the  languages,  seem  to  be  the 
most  important  branches  of  an  education  ;  not  that  all  other 
acquirements  are  neglected,  but  that  the  practical  is  not 
considered  so  essential  as  in  our  institutions  at  home. 

The  Emperor,  Empress,  and  suite  arrived  day  before  yester- 
day from  Italy,  and  were  received  at  the  railroad  depot  by  a 
large  body  of  Italian  residents,  who  addressed  thanks  for  the 
Emperor's  acts  of  clemency  in  Lombardy.  He  was  received 
by  the  citizens  in  large  numbers,  who  formed  a  line  of  protection 
for  the  imperial  cortege  to  the  gates  of  the  city,  where 
the  Burgermeister  and  authorities  of  the  metropolis  attended 
him. 

The  Italians  have  gained  through  his  visit  a  Yiceroy,  in  the 
person  of  his  brother,  who  is  to  reside  at  Milan  and  Venice 
alternately,  dispensing  with  the  military  government  of  Ra- 
detzky.  Political  refugees  have  been  pardoned,  and  granted  the 
privilege  of  returning.  Confiscated  property  has  been  restored ; 
the  revolutionary  events  of  1848  buried  in  oblivion  ;  the  prisons 
for  felons  have  been  in  many  cases  opened,  and  a  sort  of 
jubilee  produced  among  all,  except  those  whose  national  preju- 
dices cannot  submit  to  Austrian  rule.  Culprits  and  cut-throats 
in  despotic  and  monarchical  countries  never  divest  themselves 
of  the  sheet  anchor  Hope,  for  the  marriage  of  a  Prince,  the 
birth    of   a    Princess,    or   an   accession   to   the   throne,    bring 


460  RAILROAD   ACCIDENTS. 

amnesties  frequently.  These  are  paraded  and  published  as  acts 
of  magnanimity  ;  and  with  their  consummation,  not  unfrequently 
come  many  breakers  of  the  peace  and  pests  upon  society. 

On  Washington's  birthday,  the  Secretary  of  our  Legation  and 
his  Austrian  wife,  our  Consul  and  family,  and  some  eight  or  ten 
American  students  and  travellers,  accepted  a  sumptuous  dinner 
at  the  house  of  our  patriotic  Minister,  Judge  Jackson  of  Georgia. 
The  stars  and  stripes  of  our  beloved  country  were  attached  to 
the  wall,  encircling  the  portrait  of  the  illustrious  father  of  his 
country,  whose  memory  we  are  proud  to  honor. 

A  twelve  hours  ride  by  rail  brought  me  from  Silesia  to 
Vienna.  At  the  Austrian  frontiers  our  luggage  was  visited  as 
usual,  and  our  passports  examined.  I  designed  revisiting  Polish 
Cracow,  by  taking  a  branch  line  to  the  left,  but  as  the  cars  were 
not  heated,  declined  doing  so.  I  made  some  remarks  relative 
to  the  discomfort  and  slowness  of  the  train,  which  were 
responded  to  by  one  of  the  officers  of  the  company,  who  was 
passing  over  the  road  in  consequence  of  a  collision  which  had 
occurred  the  day  before,  attended  with  loss  of  life  and  property. 
We  Americans  are  so  frequently  called  upon  to  reply  to  the 
gross  calumnies  upon  our  steamboat  and  railroad  disasters,  that 
I  was  curious  to  see  if  an  account  of  this  accident  would  appear 
in  print,  but  I  never  saw  it.  The  officer  remarked  that  it  was 
very  important  to  keep  it  secret,  as  the  apprehension  of  the 
travelling  public  would  affect  the  interests  of  the  road.  The 
press  being  under  censorhip,  and  the  government  being  a  party 
in  the  construction  of  the  road,  we  can  understand  the  silence. 


CXXIII. 

Trieste,  April  15,  1857. 

The  distance  from  Vienna  to  this  free  Austrian  port  is  about 
three  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  which,  upon  the  completion  of  the 
railway,  in  the  month  of  August,  will  probably  be  accomplished 
in  eighteen  or  twenty  hours ;  I  was  once  four  days  in  accom- 
plishing the  same  route. 

The  Semering  Pass  is  about  fifty  miles  this  side  of  Vienna.  It 
is  a  gigantic  work,  and  excites  the  admiration  and  wonder  of  all 
travellers.     The  immense  arches  of  the  granite  aqueducts  span 


THE   SEMERING  PASS.  461 

ning  the  mountain  torrents,  and  the  road  winding  in  a  serpentine 
manner,  with  extraordinary  curves,  through  the  valleys,  pene- 
trating the  huge  long  tunnels  in  and  out,  afford  a  fine  rear 
view.  The  iron  horse  climbs  continually  up  the  ascent,  to  a 
height  of  two  thousand  seven  hundred  and  ninety  feet ;  then  a 
tunnel  four  thousiind  feet  long  is  passed,  and  the  rail  continues 
to  Murzuschlag,  in  connexion  with  the  southern  or  Trieste  road, 
to  Gratz,  in  Steyermark,  or  Styria,  a  city  with  a  population  of 
some  sixty  thousand  inhabitants,  the  residence  of  the  Archduke 
John,  uncle  to  the  Emperor,  whom  I  saw  at  the  German  Con- 
gress of  nine  hundred,  in  Frankfort,  in  1848,  when  the  city  was 
illuminated,  and  he  was  proposed  for  the  Emperor  of  United 
Germany.  I  saw  him  here  under  other  circumstances,  sitting 
quietly  in  a  provincial  theatre.  The  town  is  beautifully  situated 
in  a  healthy  position,  and  in  it  are  some  objects  of  interest. 

March  is  a  bad  month  in  Vienna  for  coughs  and  colds,  and 
suffering  from  the  same,  I  made  my  escape  to  Gratz,  where  I 
spent  several  days  to  recruit,  and  then  took  the  railway  to  Lai- 
bach,  distant  some  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles,  noted  for 
the  Congress  of  sovereigns  in  1820. 

At  Marburg,  some  fifty  miles  south,  the  German  language, 
badly  spoken  as  it  is  in  Styria,  begins  to  be  lost ;  and  at  Cilley, 
in  Carinthia,  a  language,  entirely  unintelligible  to  the  Germans, 
is  found.  It  is  the  Sclavisch  tongue,  which  is  used  by  many 
millions  of  Austrian  subjects. 

At  that  period  I  was  travelling  by  post,  which  prevented  a 
visit  to  the  great  quicksilver  works  of  Idria,  which  demanded  a 
ride  of  twenty-five  miles  over  a  bad  road,  some  one  thousand 
five  hundred  feet  high,  over  the  mountains.  I  had  always 
regretted  having  lost  the  opportunity  of  seeing  those  immense 
government  mines,  and  I  now  resolved  to  make  up  for  it,  not- 
withstanding that  the  season  was  early  for  the  trip.  Having  in 
the  interval  of  time  visited  the  Almedan  quicksilver  works,  in 
the  Valley  of  San  Jose,  California,  the  silver  mines  of  Peru,  the 
lead  mines  of  Galena,  the  iron  mines  of  Sweden  and  of  the 
Island  of  Elba,  my  curiosity  was  the  more  quickened  to  inspect 
this  mountain  of  quicksilver  ore,  particularly  as  I  had  recently 
heard  a  series  of  lectures  on  these  subjects,  at  the  University  in 
Vienna.  Procuring  a  close  carriage  and  a  pair  of  strong  horses 
with  a  driver,  for  a  three  days'  excursion,  I  was  enabled  to 


462  QUICKSILVER  MINES   OF   IDRIA. 

accomplish  this  tour,  and  also  to  visit  the  renowned  Grotto  of 
Adelsberg,  on  mj  way  to  Trieste. 

The  village  of  Idria,  of  four  thousand  population,  lies  in  a 
valley  of  a  round  bowl  form,  with  an  abundance  of  water  power. 
The  ascent  of  the  mountain  is  by  zigzag  roads,  with  at  intervals 
a  peasant's  cottage,  bleak  and  dreary ;  the  summit  once  reached, 
we  can  scarcely  realize  that  a  smiling  village,  with  gardens  and 
fruit  trees,  exists  in  the  low  grounds.  There  are  seven  hundred 
men  employed  in  these  works.  A  ticket  of  admission  is 
granted,  a  miner's  suit  is  provided,  and  a  guide,  with  lights,  pro- 
cured, all  to  be  paid  for  in  turn.  The  descent  commences 
through  narrow  arches  and  long  galleries,  of  a  man's  height,  of 
stone  work ;  then  by  flights  of  steps  cut  in  the  rock,  from 
seventy  to  one  hundred  and  forty  in  number,  leading  from  one 
gallery  to  another.  They  are  more  fatiguing  than  the  salt  mines 
at  Hallein.  Some  two  thousand  steps  are  here  made  to  the 
fourth  gallery,  whose  perpendicular  depth  is  seven  hundred  and 
fifty  feet.  At  a  depth  of  three  hundred  feet  I  noticed  that  the 
timbers  employed  in  the  passages  were  charred,  and  learned  that 
only  a  few  years  since  fire  had  occurred  by  accident,  which  cost 
the  lives  of  many  miners,  whose  bodies  were  drawn  out  after 
suffocation.  A  portion  of  the  pits  have  also  been  flooded  with 
water;  the  steam  and  water  pumps  were  exhausting  it.  The 
heat  at  this  great  depth  is  apparent,  and  the  miners  who  are  on 
duty  with  picks  and  axes,  and  blasting  the  rocks,  have  a  warm 
berth  of  it.  The  poor  fellows,  in  shirt  and  trowsers,  with  the 
dull  light  of  the  lamps  in  the  close  murky  atmosphere,  sweating 
at  their  toil,  look  certainly  haggard,  and  excite  one's  sympathy 
when  he  learns  that  the  recompense  is  only  sixteen  kreuzers  (or 
fourteen  cents)  per  day.  The  government  furnishes  flour  and 
fuel  at  fixed  rates,  which  are  less  than  current  prices.  The  ore 
in  some  cases  will  average  sixty  parts,  and  the  liquid  quicksilver 
is  seen  in  the  pores  of  the  stone  formation.  They  turn  out 
annually  from  two  and  a  half  to  three  million  centners,  of  one 
hundred  pounds  each.  The  price  is  now  low,  being  about  fifty 
cents  per  pound. 

The  ascent  is  by  steam  or  water  power.  From  the  bottom, 
seven  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  a  perpendicular  square  shaft  com- 
municates with  all  the  galleries,  for  hoisting  the  ore.  One  puts 
himself  in  a  square  box,  of  solid  wood  construction,  with  a  board 


THE   CAVE   OF   ADELSBERG-.  463 

seat,  supported  bj  four  chains  from  the  corners,  attached  to  a 
rope  cable,  and  trusts  to  its  strength  and  the  movement  of  the 
water  wheel  to  see  dayhght  once  again.  The  reflection  is  any- 
thing but  agreeable  ;  for  should  an  accident  occur,  not  a  vestige 
of  frail  humanity  would  remain.  The  ascent  on  foot  is  too 
fatiguing,  although  many  persons  prefer  it. 

The  smelting  furnaces  here  are  on  a  large  scale,  as  also  the 
manufacture  of  red  vermilion  from  quicksilver  and  sulphur 
combined,  under  the  action  of  great  heat.  It  is  a  singular  fact 
that  those  employed  in  these  works  not  only  lose  their  teeth 
early  in  life,  through  the  salivation  of  the  mercury,  but  the 
atmosphere  being  impregnated,  young  people  of  twenty-five 
years  of  age  show  the  same  signs  of  decay.  They  had  recently 
four  shocks  of  earthquakes,  and  a  house  near  the  pits  was  con- 
siderably cracked,  but  the  miners  said  the  vibrations  were  only 
slightly  felt  below. 

A  singular  idea  prevails,  not  only  in  this  country,  but  in  other 
parts  of  Europe,  among  certain  classes,  which  reminds  me  of  the 
days  of  Miller.  It  is  the  prophecy  of  the  destruction  of  the 
world  on  the  thirteenth  of  June,  by  a  comet,  I  have  seen  seve- 
ral newspaper  articles  confirming  the  probability.  I  tell  the 
people  they  must  emigrate  to  America,  where  the  vicinity  of 
icebergs  will  keep  them  thawed  out. 

A  seven  hours'  ride  brought  me  to  the  cave  of  Adelsberg, 
recently  visited  by  the  Emperor,  Empress,  and  suite,  on  their 
return  from  Italy.  Some  three  hundred  laborers  were  employed 
for  several  months,  carrying  in  sand  for  the  purpose  of  making 
dry  walks,  repairing  the  bridge  over  the  rushing  waterfall,  which 
loses  itself  here  and  appears  again  some  miles  distant,  and  in 
the  preparation  of  the  twenty  thousand  lights,  along  all  the  pas- 
sages, and  the  grand  illumination  of  the  Dome  of  Neptune  chapel, 
whose  death-bell  music  is  produced  by  beating  sticks  upon  the 
suspended  stalactites,  and  the  riding  school,  organ,  altars,  and 
the  ascent  to  Mount  Calvary,  with  its  twelve  stations.  The  I'oof 
from  the  base  of  this  enormous  cave  at  this  point  is  scarcely 
visible,  but  from  the  summit  of  Calvary,  it  is  strikingly  grand. 
The  immense  dancing  hall  is  used  once  a  year,  for  the  people's 
festivals.  The  distance  walked  over  is  probably  four  miles.  I 
cannot  describe  the  beauties  of  this  nature's  wonder.  Thousands 
of  columns  are  formed  and  are  forming,  from  the  dripping,  and 


46-i  TRIESTE. 

one  can  see  tlie  most  exquisite  imitation  of  curtains,  and  drapery 
like  lace  of  various  colors,  and  the  imagination  conjures  up  a 
thousand  forms  of  animals,  antiquities,  Hindoo  and  Egyptian 
deities.  The  amount  expended  for  the  Imperial  reception  was 
twenty  thousand  guldens,  or  ten  thousand  dollars.  I  happened 
along  at  a  favorable  time,  as  the  decorations  and  evergreens 
were  not  removed,  and  the  cave  was  perfectly  dry ;  and  I  fortu- 
nately found  two  Austrian  officers  who  were  willing  to  join  in 
employing  twelve  guides  and  torch -bearers,  for  lighting  up,  with 
one  hundred  and  forty  wax  candles,  in  order  to  examine  the  old, 
as  well  as  the  newl}''  discovered  grotto,  and  see  all  to  advantage. 
Another  six  hours  by  mail  coach,  and  we  were  on  the  summit 
of  the  mountain,  descending  to  Trieste,  with  the  beautiful  placid 
waters  of  the  Adriatic  before  us,  the  blue  sky  and  an  Italian 
sunset  above  us,  the  almond  trees  in  bloom,  and  the  city  lying 
at  our  feet,  with  its  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  and  the  flags 
from  the  ships,  of  all  nations,  waving  in  the  mild  and  gentle 
breeze.  The  sight  of  the  sea  is  refreshing  after  so  long  an 
absence,  and  on  this  occasion  the  elements  conspired  to  make  it 
particularly  striking.  The  growth  of  the  city  has  been  rapid, 
and  great  changes  have  been  made  since  I  was  last  here ;  the 
new  part  is  most  substantially  built;  the  streets  are  wide,  and 
paved  with  flat  slabs.  The  costumes  are  various,  from  all  parts 
of  the  Levant  and  Archipelago.  It  is  a  perfect  Babel  for 
languages. 


CXXIV. 

Yenicb,  Italy,  Mmj  15,  1857. 
A  SEVEN  hours'  passage  by  steamer  brings  me  across  the 
head-waters  of  the  Adriatic  from  Trieste  to  this  city.  The  con- 
trast between  the  rumbling  noises  of  rolling  wagons  and  car- 
riages over  the  broad,  well-paved  streets  of  the  trading  city,  in 
addition  to  the  heat  and  oppression  from  clouds  of  dust  from  the 
calcareous  mountain  roads,  to  the  clean,  quiet  quays  and  landing- 
place  of  the  steamer  at  Venice,  strikes  the  stranger  upon  his  first 
visit,  away  from  noise  and  dust,  and  breathing  a  pure  salt  atmo- 
sphere. We  left  Trieste  with  the  beginning  of  a  howling  J5om, 
or  north  wind,  which,  being  after  us,  had  no  other  effect  than  to 


AGAIN   IN   VENICE.  465 

quiet  most  of  our  passengers,  giving  them  a  taste  of  the  horrors 
of  sea-sickness.  Both  cities  are  free  ports,  and  notwithstanding 
they  are  under  Austrian  rule,  the  dissimilarity  is  very  remark- 
able in  every  particular.  The  dialect  is  different;  the  currency 
is  metallic,  the  _  Lombardian  states  never  having  accepted  the 
paper  medium  of  the  Empire,  being  the  only  exception  in  all  the 
Austrian  provinces ;  their  weights  and  measures  are  not  the 
same ;  the  habits  and  customs  of  the  people  are  quite  unlike. 
In  Trieste  commerce  predominates,  and  early  hours  are  observed ; 
here  it  is  the  reverse,  the  habits  of  the  people  are  late,  the  dining 
hour  being  five  p.m.  ;  the  theatres  commence  at  nine  and  are  out 
at  twelve  or  half-past  twelve ;  many  places  of  refreshment  are 
open  at  midnight,  and  others  never  close ;  during  the  heat  of 
summer,  the  bright  moonlight  nights  are  almost  wholly  passed 
in  the  open  air,  or  in  excursions  in  gondolas,  and  the  quietude 
and  tranquillity  of  the  city  induces  repose  by  daylight. 

It  is  now  nearly  a  year  since  I  wrote  you  from  Venice,  and  this 
being  my  fourth  visit,  I  will  not  reiterate  the  remarkable  sights 
of  this  remarkable  city.  Sunday  evening  I  was  standing  upon 
the  Rialto  Bridge,  which  crosses  the  grand  canal,  admiring  by 
moonlight  the  marble  palaces  with  their  quaint  architecture  of 
Byzantine,  Gothic,  and  other  styles,  when  I  noticed  the  steeple 
of  St.  Apostoli,  illuminated  in  the  distance ;  and  on  inquiry,  I 
learned  that  it  was  a  festival  in  honor  of  the  admission  of  a  priest 
to  full  privileges.  How  many  lanes  or  passages,  called  calle, 
from  four  to  twelve  feet  in  width,  in  this  labyrinth  of  a  city,  I 
travelled,  I  know  not ;  but  prosecuting  my  tortuous  way  through 
the  multitude,  I  came  at  last  to  the  Campiello,  or  little  square  of 
the  church,  whose  neighboring  houses  were  gleaming  with  lighted 
torches.  Bengal  lights  and  rockets  were  exploding  in  the  air ; 
the  cafes  were  filled ;  the  masses,  mostly  the  working  classes,  were 
out.  the  brunettes  without  bonnets ;  the  booths  of  the  Fritolero, 
with  their  bright  copper  kettles  of  boiling  oil,  preparing  pastry, 
were  quite  surrounded ;  dark-eyed  damsels  were  overhanging 
the  balconies,  listening  to  the  sound  of  a  guitar,  or  the  merry 
song  of  a  gondolier,  whose  tiny  bark  lay  in  the  canal  underneath. 
I  had  so  often  witnessed  similar  spectacles,  that  I  should  have  been 
almost  unconscious  of  the  novelt}^,  but  for  the  presence  of  an 
American  friend  on  his  first  visit,  whom  I  was  desirous  of  grati- 
fying ;  his  expressions  of  surprise  awoke  me  to  a  sense  of  the 

30 


466  MARKETS. 

peculiarities  of  the  scene.  As  gondolas  are  used  by  strangers 
generally,  who  are  unacquainted  with  the  intricate  passages 
which  require  long  experience,  much  of  interest  is  lost.  One 
steps  in  his  bark  from  the  hotel  door,  and  is  rowed  from  church 
to  church,  from  palace  to  palace,  as  well  as  to  the  theatre,  by 
means  of  these  intersecting  canals,  without  the  necessity  of  dodg- 
ing in  and  out,  and  around  corners,  and  over  bridges;  when  time 
and  experience  permit,  however,  the  land-route  is  of  great  interest, 
for  one  learns  thereby  the  characteristics  of  the  people ;  one 
may  walk  for  miles,  and  find  always  something  new  and  inte- 
resting. 

Isolated  as  is  Venice,  every  comfort  and  luxury  can  be  pro- 
cured here,  and  one  naturally  seeks  out  the  sources  of  supply. 
The  flower  girls  trip  along  in  the  morning  under  the  porticos  of 
San  Marco,  presenting  strangers  with  early -plucked  roses.  Fresh 
butter  and  milk  are  found  at  the  cafes.  The  water  carriers, 
mostly  country  village  girls,  in  funny  costume,  wearing  boys' 
fur  hats  of  peculiar  form,  with  feathers,  are  trotting  barefooted 
along  with  a  pair  of  small  copper  kettles  suspended  from  flat 
elastic  rods  over  their  shoulders  ;  the  markets  are  well  supplied 
with  shell  and  other  fish ;  the  landing-place  for  vegetables  is 
filled  with  boats  delivering  their  cargoes ;  the  water  barges  are 
moving  up  the  lateral  canals ;  the  wood  market  furnishes  its 
quota  ;  foreign  vessels  contribute  the  colonial  supplies ;  oranges, 
cherries,  strawberries,  green  peas,  asparagus,  are  seen  in  all 
parts  exposed  for  sale,  and  the  stranger  looks  in  vain  for  any 
signs  of  vegetation,  or  the  bubbling  of  a  fountain.  The  gardino 
publico^  the  work  of  Napoleon,  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  city, 
where,  within  a  given  circuit,  horse  exercise  may  be  taken,  is 
resorted  to  more  by  foreigners  than  by  natives.  Eight  of  these 
strange  quadrupeds  are  kept  in  hire  for  the  purpose.  They  are 
now  regarded  less  as  a  curiosity  than  formerly. 

Italy  is  the  school  for  music,  and  the  nursery  of  the  arts ;  but 
dramatic  artists  must  not  expect  to  acquire  fortunes  in  it.  The 
operas  and  theatres  are  frequented  for  the  purposes  of  coquetry, 
and  the  exchange  of  salutations  replaces  visiting  to  a  certain 
extent.  Shakspearc's  Othello,  or  the  Moor  of  Venice,  translated 
in  Italian,  has  had  several  repetitions  lately  here  ;  it  loses  in  the 
translation,  but  the  scene  being  laid  here,  the  costume  of  the 
Doges,  the  canals  and  bridges  in  the  decorations,  give  it  addi- 


ARONA.  467 

tional  attractions.  It  is  curious  to  see  the  cushioned  and  richly 
furnished  gondolas  by  the  light  of  a  full  moon,  driving  up  like 
cabs  to  the  front  door  steps  of  the  theatre,  taking  in  the  well- 
clad  aristocracy,  or  such  as  live  remote,  and  do  not  wish  to 
thread  the  narrow  streets  on  their  way  home. 


cxxv. 

Luzerne,   Switzerland,  June  12,  1857. 

In  order  to  vary  my  plan  in  proceeding  north  into  Switzer- 
land, I  was  obliged  to  again  take  Yerona,  Yicenza,  Brescia, 
and  Milan,  en  route.  It  is  not  a  year  since  I  described  to  you 
my  visit  to  these  cities,  and  my  excursions  upon  the  La  go  di 
Como,  Guarda,  and  Lugano.  I  now  wished  to  accomplish  the 
last  of  the  five  great  passes  of  the  Alps,  the  St.  Gothard,  and 
include  Lago  Maggiore  once  again  in  the  circuit,  having  last 
year  crossed  the  Splugen,  and  on  former  occasions  Mount  Cenis, 
the  Simplon,  and  the  great  St.  Bernard. 

From  Milan,  I  took  the  poste  to  Sesto  Calende,  on  the  Lake 
Maggiore,  where  our  passports  were  vise,  as  we  were  leaving 
Austrian  territory.  The  next  landing  place  on  the  opposite 
side,  in  Sardinia,  is  Arona,  near  which  stands  the  bronze  monu- 
ment of  San  Carlo  Boromeo,  sixty-six  feet  high,  upon  a  pedestal 
forty-four  feet  in  height,  to  the  head  of  which  I  had  once 
ascended  by  an  inner  staircase.  The  remains  of  the  saint  are  in 
a  crystal  and  gold  coffin,  in  the  crypt  of  the  Domo  of  Milan. 
We  soon  reached  the  islands  called  Isola  Madre,  Isola  Bella, 
Isola  Pescatore,  belonging  to  the  same  family,  and  noted  for 
their  beauty.  The  two  first  are  perfect  gems.  Isola  Bella,  with 
its  palace,  picture  galleries,  terraced  gardens,  fountains,  tropical 
vegetation,  gold  fish,  guinea  fowls,  &c.,  gives  it  the  air  of  a  little 
paradise.  The  length  of  the  lake  may  be  made  in  five  hours, 
to  Mogidorro,  where  an  omnibus  conveys  you  to  Bellinzona, 
from  which  point  the  road  strikes  off  over  the  Splugen  Pass  to 
the  right,  which  I  took  last  year  from  Como.  I  now  passed  in  to 
the  left,  by  diligence  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  to  Airolo,  where 
I  passed  the  night.  Leaving  in  the  morning,  our  horses  climbed 
steadily  up  the  zigzag  walled  roads,  until  at  midday  we  reached 
the  Hospice,  a  height  of  six  thousand  eight  hundred  and  sixty- 


468  CROSSING   THE   MOUNTAIN. 

eight  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  where  we  partook  of 
refreshments,  and  commenced  the  descent.  The  height  is,  you 
will  perceive,  seven  hundred  and  sixty-two  feet  less  than  that  of 
the  location  of  the  convent  on  the  great  St.  Bernard,  the  highest 
habitable  point  in  Europe,  once  described  to  you,  and  which  is 
one  thousand  feet  above  the  growth  of  timber.  The  mountains 
were  snow-capped,  the  weather  was  fine,  and  we  suffered  but 
little  from  cold.  The  snow  banks  did  not  affect  the  passage. 
During  eiglit  months  in  the  year  sleighs  are  used.  Some  of  the 
passes,  which  are  subject  to  avalanches,  are  protected  by  long 
galleries,  over  which  the  huge  masses  slide  into  the  gorges  and 
ravines  below.  One  of  these  galleries  is  one  hundred  and  eighty 
feet  long,  and  twelve  feet  wide.  The  melting  snow  produced 
beautiful  cataracts,  and  the  foaming  and  rumbling  of  the  waters 
were  at  times  deafening,  particularly  near  the  Teufel's  Briicke,  or 
Devil's  Bridge,  over  the  torrent  Reuss,  ninety -five  feet  in  height, 
about  four  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  dan- 
gerous passes,  on  the  verge  of  precipices  hundreds  of  feet  per- 
pendicular, are  protected  by  parapet  walls.  In  two  instances, 
from  the  encroachment  of  the  snow  upon  the  border  of  the  deep 
chasms,  our  wheels  were  blocked  with  loaded  wagons  going  in 
contrary  directions,  which  obliged  us  to  dismount,  and  caused 
some  delay.  The  scattered  stone  houses  of  the  peasantry  in  the 
valley,  from  the  lofty  eminences,  looked  like  bird-cages,  and  the 
cultivated  patches  in  the  green  fields  I  could  only  compare  to 
brown  rugs  which  had  been  washed  and  were  lying  out  to 
bleach  upon  the  grass.  The  descent  in  the  valley,  the  wild, 
romantic  scenery  of  the  mountains,  the  deep  greeuN  foliage  of 
the  pines  and  cedars,  the  neat  and  airj^  Swiss  villages,  the  herds- 
men, with  flocks  of  goats,  the  peculiar  costumes  of  the  peasants, 
the  roaring  of  the  torrents,  and  the  splashing  of  cascades,  were 
well  calculated  to  keep  up  a  lively  interest,  even  in  one  who  had 
traversed  most  of  the  mountains  of  Europe.  The  village  where 
William  Tell  was  born,  and  the  spot  where  he  is  represented  as 
having  shot  the  apple  from  his  son's  head,  lent  an  historical 
interest  to  the  route. 

At  Fuelen,  the  head  of  the  lake,  a  small  steamer  was  in 
readiness  to  conduct  us,  in  two  hours  and  a  half,  to  Luzerne,  one 
of  .the  prettiest  positions  for  a  town  in  Switzerland.  I  had  made 
the  tour  of  the  lake  some  years  since,  and  was  then,  as  now, 


THE   ASCENT   OF   THE   RIGA.  469 

struck  with  its  majestic  and  magnificent   scenery.     The  hotels 
here  are  excellent. 

At  the  period  alluded  to,  my  health  did  not  permit  the  ascent 
of  Mount  Riga ;  I  have  now  accomplished  it.  An  hour's  sail, 
by  steamer,  takes  one  to  Waggis,  where  horses  and  guides  are 
procured,  and  where  the  ascent  to  Riga  begins.  The  mountain 
lies  free  on  all  sides,  and  stands  on  one  of  the  most  interesting 
points,  in  reference  to  its  beautiful  views,  also  its  near  approach 
to  the  great  chain  of  the  Alps,  and  the  neighborhood  of  so 
many  lakes  and  valleys ;  I  counted  eleven  of  the  former.  Its 
height  is  five  thousand  five  hundred  feet.  Its  extensive  view, 
not  only  over  north,  east,  and  west  Switzerland,  but  also  over  a 
part  of  Germany,  well  repays  the  tourist,  if  he  be  fortunate 
enough  to  have  clear  weather,  in  which  one  is  often  disappointed. 
The  road  or  path  is  good,  but  it  is  laborious  on  foot,  and  places 
for  rest  and  refreshment  are  found.  The  better  way  is,  for  ladies 
and  gentlemen  not  accustomed  to  climbing,  to  take  horses ;  in 
three  hours  the  ascent  is  made.  A  cold  water  cure  establish- 
ment is  found  half  way  up.  The  Stafelwirthshaus  is  about  a 
mile  from  the  summit,  and  on  the  extreme  top  is  the  hotel  called 
Riga  Kulm,  where  we  passed  the  night.  We  were  favored  with 
a  fine  sunset,  after  which  the  horn  sounded  for  dinner,  which  our 
party  enjoyed  under  the  bracing  atmosphere.  The  sky  was 
serene,  and  the  moon  in  the  full.  We  retired  early,  and  the 
echo  of  the  morning  horn  saluted  us  a  half  hour  before  the  sun 
rose  on  this  grand  and  imposing  spectacle,  whose  beauties  cannot 
be  described  with  the  pen.  Cloaks  and  overcoats  were  in  requi- 
sition, a  warm  breakfast  enjoyable,  and  we  descended  by  another 
route  to  the  village  of  Kussnacht,  where  a  vehicle  was  chartered 
to  convey  us  to  Luzerne.  My  next  may  be  from  north  Switzer- 
land, or  from  the  banks  of  the  Rhine. 


CXXVI. 

Baths  of  Ems,  Duchy  of  Nassau,  July  14,  1857. 
About  the  time  I  left  Luzerne,  in  Switzerland,  the  sympa- 
thies and  anxieties  of  the  public  were  highly  excited  by  the 
report  of  fire  and  explosion  in  the  railroad  tunnel,  which  is  to 
intersect  that  city  with  Basle.     Twelve  persons,  who  had  volun- 


470  EAILROAD   ACCIDENT. 

teered  in  the  rescue  of  upwards  of  forty  workmen  who  were 
thus  suddenly  cut  off,  had  perished  in  the  attempt.  When  our 
passengers  took  the  diligence  to  cross  the  mountain,  in  the 
depths  of  which  the  accident  occurred,  three  of  our  number 
took  a  short  cut  across,  hoping  to  obtain  some  information  of 
the  sufferers.  It  was  melancholy  to  reflect  that  so  many  human 
beings  were  probably  suffering  the  agonies  of  death  under  our 
very  feet,  without  our  being  able  to  relieve  them.  I  learned 
subsequently  that  thirty-three  corpses  had  been  taken  out  and 
interred,     A  horse  was  found  slaughtered,  but  not  eaten. 

The  Swiss  cars  are  constructed  after  our  American  model ; 
passengers  see  the  scenery  of  the  country  better  from  them 
than  from  the  coach  cars  generally  in  use  in  Europe. 

A  railway  ride  of  three  and  a  half  hours,  by  express  train 
from  Basle,  brings  one  to  Baden-Baden,  uj^on  the  west  slope 
of  the  Black  Forest,  in  one  of  the  most  beautiful  valleys 
of  Germany. 

A  few  days'  sojourn,  and  I  proceeded  to  Homburg,  which  is 
much  frequented;  but  neither  that  place  nor  Baden-Baden  was 
as  full  as  I  found  them  last  year. 

At  Wiesbaden,  however,  I  found  larger  multitudes  than  I  had 
ever  met  there  on  my  former  visits.  This  I  attribute  in  part  to 
the  facilities  for  play,  newly  granted  by  the  Bank. 

Having  detailed  to  you,  on  former  occasions,  the  baths, 
qualities  and  uses  of  the  waters,  amusements  and  excursions, 
it  will  be  needless  to  go  into  repetition. 

In  addition  to  the  plebeian  movement,  it  would  seem  that 
royalty  has  turned  out  in  every  direction.  The  King  of 
Bavaria  and  ex-Empress  of  Eussia  were  at  Baden-Baden  ;  the 
Emperor  and  Empress  of  Eussia  are  at  Kissengen  ;  the  Grand 
Duchess  Constantine  and  her  suite  live  opposite  to  me,  occupy- 
ing the  entire  building  called  the  Panorama,  belonging  to  the 
Ducal  Kurhaus,  where  I  am  lodging.  Having  seen  all  these 
imperial  and  royal  personages  in  their  own  territories,  my 
curiosity  is  not  excited;  but  it  is  a  curious  spectacle  for  an 
American  to  witness  the  sycophancy  and  idolatry  of  the  masses 
for  crowned  heads  ;  and  one  naturally  asks  himself,  "  Are  such 
people  capable  of  enjoying  any  other  institutions  than  those 
they  have  been  educated  to  adore  ?" 

Those  who  remain  at  Ems,  do  so  ostensibly  for  healtli ;  and 


GRAND   DUCHESS   OF   CONSTAXTINE.  471 

no  waters  in  Europe  are  so  valuable  for  bronchial  diseases, 
incipient  pulmonary  disease,  nervous  complaints,  and  many  other 
difficulties  ;  the  fair  sex  predominate. 

The  Russians  have  the  privilege  of  travelling  since  the 
treaty  of  peace ;  the  presence  of  the  wife  of  the  Grand  Admiral 
Constantine  has  brought  large  numbers  here.  The  other 
evening,  on  the  occasion  of  her  birthday,  the  Duke  of  Nassau 
gave  a  grand  celebration.  In  the  middle  of  the  little  river 
Lahn,  which  flows  through  the  valley,  opposite  the  quarters  of 
the  Grand  Duchess  of  Constantine  was  an  illuminated  barge, 
with  thirty  musicians.  The  Swiss  Cottage  Restaurant,  upon  the 
hill-side,  was  brilliantly  lighted ;  and  on  the  opposite  mountain- 
ridge  was  a  display  of  Bengal  lights,  and  other  fireworks,  which 
produced  a  pretty  effect,  much  to  the  edification  of  visitors  and 
the  peasantry,  who  seemed  to  enjoy  it  highly.  Last  night  a  ball 
was  given  by  this  lady  in  the  honor  of  the  Russians. 

One  is  elbowed  on  all  sides  by  Dukes,  Duchesses,  Counts, 
Countesses,  Barons,  and  Baronesses,  and  the  whole  aristocratic 
race. 

The  German  aristocracy  are  easy  and  approachable.  You 
find  that  you  have  made  the  acquaintance  of  your  neighbor  ; 
cards  are  exchanged ;  you  see,  perhaps,  the  arms  and  title  of  a 
Count,  Baron,  or  some  high  functionary  or  dignitary,  in  return 
for  which  you  give  him  a  plain  American  address,  without 
a  handle  to  the  name. 

The  demoralizing  and  destructive  practice  of  open  gambling 
is  only  tolerated  in  the  German  duchies,  and  is  a  source  of  great 
revenue  to  their  rulers.  In  France  it  is  prohibited:  Prussia  has 
withheld  the  grant  at  her  watering  places :  in  Belgium  it  only 
exists  at  Spa :  Sardinia  has  stopped  it  at  Aix  les  Bains.  But 
all  the  efforts  of  the  great  princes  have  not  yet  succeeded  in 
destrojnng  the  sj'stem  established  at  Baden-Baden,  Homburg, 
Wiesbaden,  and  Bms. 

Next  month  I  go  to  Paris,  and  expect  to  be  in  the  United 
States  in  September. 


472  PARIS. 


18  5  8. 
CXXVII. 

Marseilles,  France,  Jan.  15,  1858. 

I  MUST  apologize  to  many  of  my  friends  and  acquaintances 
wliom  I  could  not  have  the  pleasure  of  seeing  during  my  last 
short  sojourn  at  home,  and  also  for  my  sudden  departure,  which 
was  the  result  of  cold  and  indisposition. 

From  the  time  I  left  New  York,  on  the  25th  of  last  month, 
I  experienced  no  cold  weather  until  recently  in  Paris,  where 
the  prevalence  of  the  grippe^  or  influenza,  induced  me  to  take 
flight  for  a  more  congenial  climate.  Our  passage  by  the  steamer 
Fulton  was  one  of  the  shortest  and  most  comfortable  winter 
passages  I  ever  made.  Christmas  and  New  Year's  festivals 
were  passed  in  Paris.  The  great  city,  as  usual  at  this  joyous 
season,  was  extremely  gay. 

The  Boulevards,  from  the  Madeleine  to  the  Bastile,  a  distance 
of  three  miles,  were  lined  on  both  sides  with  booths,  offering 
every  variety  of  fancy  and  useful  articles  for  presents  and  use, 
as  at  this  period  all  classes  expect  gifts  and  souvenirs,  which  tax 
the  ingenuity  in  the  selection,  and  the  purse  in  the  acquisition. 
In  this  manner  several  millions  of  francs  change  hands.  The 
number  of  Americans  is  much  less  than  usual  this  season,  but  at 
a  ball  given  by  our  Consul  in  Paris,  I  should  judge  that  three 
hundred  of  both  sexes  were  present. 

The  crisis  is  less  visible  in  France  than  in  most  of  the 
countries  of  Europe.  One  would  scarcely  infer  from  the  manner 
in  which  the  theatres,  operas  and  masked  balls  are  frequented 
at  the  opening  of  the  carnival  season,  that  a  money  panic  existed 
in  the  capital  of  France ;  in  fact  very  little  publicity  was  given 
through  the  press,  as  the  Emperor  had  declared  the  thing  a 
humbug,  and  not  intended  for  his  Empire.  At  the  grand  Hotel 
du  Louvre,  near  the  Tuileries,  where  I  lived,  I  noticed  that  the 


MAESEILLES.  473 

number  of  arrivals  kept  up  pretty  well  for  the  season.  It  is  the 
St.  Nicholas  of  Paris,  and  a  stupendous  structure,  far  exceeding 
anything  of  the  kind  in  Europe  as  a  hotel,  for  its  style  of 
architecture,  decoration,  magnificent  marble  staircases,  luxuriant 
dining  and  reading  rooms ;  the  former  has  splendid  crystal 
candelabra  and  six  hundred  gas  lights  at  the  six  o'clock 
table  d'hote.  It  is  better  adapted  for  travellers  who  have 
been  accustomed  to  warmer  heated  apartments  in  winter  than 
most  French  hotels,  as  the  halls  and  passages  are  heated  by  regis- 
ters throughout.  Russians,  Americans,  English  and  Hollanders 
are  the  best  paying  guests.  The  French,  with  more  strict 
notions  of  economy,  are  unwilling  to  pay  for  the  extravagant 
outlay  and  parade.  The  transition  from  the  recent  cold  in  Paris 
to  the  mild  temperature  of  this  region,  which  one  reaches  in  the 
short  space  of  twenty  hours  by  rail,  a  distance  of  five  hundred 
miles,  is  most  striking.  Here  the  almond  trees  are  in  blossom, 
and  the  silvery  leaf  of  the  olive  has  a  more  cheerful  aspect. 
The  contrast  is  more  marked  now  than  before  the  construction 
of  the  railroad ;  I  once  experienced  a  similar  change,  but  after  a 
tedious  journey  of  four  days  and  nights ;  the  lightning  line 
now  accomplishes  it  in  less  than  one  day. 

The  community  is  now  excited,  as  well  as  all  France,  at  the 
recent  attempt  on  the  life  of  the  Emperor,  which,  had  it  been 
successful,  would  have  put  all  Europe  in  a  blaze  of  revolution, 
Marseilles  is  particularly  interested  as  a  commercial  port  in  the 
preservation  of  the  existing  dynasty,  since  its  growing  commerce 
with  Algeria,  as  well  as  its  other  interests,  would  suffer  by  a 
change  of  government. 

It  has  been  suggested  that  the  Emperor  designed  visiting 
Africa,  and  the  project  of  railroads  has  been  proposed.  The 
Kabyle  districts  and  warrior  tribes  having  been  subdued  bj^  the 
French  troops,  a  good  opportunity  is  offered  of  visiting  the 
northern  part  of  Africa;  and,  as  I  wish  to  escape  the  cold 
changes  which  occur  even  in  Italy  in  winter,  I  have  decided  to 
embark  for  Algiers,  where  I  shall  find  a  race  of  Moors  and 
Arabs  differing  perhaps  from  the  Bedouins  of  Syria  and  Egypt, 
and  find  many  monuments  of  Moorish  architecture  more  antique 
than  those  of  the  Alhambra  of  Granada,  and  the  Alcazar  and 
Giralda  of  Seville,  continued  after  the  Arab  conquest  of  Spain, 
I  shall  be  able  to  judge  of  the  effects  and  progress  of  French 


474  ALGIERS. 

civilization  over  barbarism,  and  shall  in  addition  have  somethins; 
to  communicate. 

I  notice  many  changes  and  improvements,  each  time  I  return 
to  this  point  of  departure  for  Italy,  Spain,  Egypt,  and  other 
lands  on  the  Mediterranean. 


CXXVIII. 


Algiers,  Africa,  Fth.  1,  1858. 

Notwithstanding  we  had  some  boisterous  weather  in  the 
Gulf  of  Lyons,  our  voyage  across  the  Mediterranean  brought 
us  in  less  than  forty-eight  hours  in  sight  of  the  African  coast. 
The  city  seen  from  the  sea  with  its  triangular  form  upon  a  steep 
slope,  appears  like  a  white  mass  of  chalk  surrounded  with 
verdure.  The  Arabs  compare  it  poetically  to  a  diamond  set  in 
emerald  and  sapphire.  Its  primitive  appearance,  as  occupied  by 
the  Dey  before  the  conquest  by  the  French,  in  1830,  is  greatly 
changed  by  the  opening  of  wide  streets  near  the  base,  and  the 
erection  of  buildings  of  modern  style,  and  public  squares  and 
gardens.  The  new  port  and  quays  give  portions  of  the  city  an 
European  air. 

The  blending  of  Moorish  and  French  architecture,  and  the 
great  variety  of  costume  worn  by  Arabs,  Moors,  Jews,  Spaniards, 
and  government  troops  and  officials,  strike  the  stranger  with 
astonishment ;  and  had  I  not  been  familiar  with  Egyptian, 
Turkish,  Greek,  and  Continental  races,  I  should  have  been  as 
much  astonished  as  some  of  our  fellow  passengers  seemed  to  be. 

The  day  of  our  arrival  was  fine,  and  the  sun's  rays  warm,  as 
the  thermometer  in  winter  always  keeps  considerably  above  the 
freezing  point,  although  the  Atlas  Mountains  in  the  distance  are 
at  times  tipped  with  snow.  The  venders  of  fresh  dates,  oranges, 
bananas,  and  other  fruits,  advised  us  of  a  much  warmer  climate 
than  we  had  left. 

The  summit  of  the  triangle  is  crowned  with  the  chateau 
La  Casbah.  A  half  league  to  the  left  of  this  ancient  fortress, 
ihe  last  residence  of  the  Dey,  stands  the  famous  Fort  of  the 
Emperor,  the  explosion  of  which,  by  the  French,  in  1830,  decided 
the  fate  of  this  well-fortified  city. 

Algiers  was  founded  by  the  Berbers  Mosgan  tribe  of  the  Beni. 


BOTANICAL   GARDENS.  475 

Mezarliama,  and  the  companions  of  Hercules  the  Ljbian,  who 
left  the  army  of  the  hero  and  fixed  themselves  here.  It  then 
became  part  of  the  Mauritanic  Ciesariene. 

On  the  fall  of  the  Koman  empire,  it  became  the  prey  of  the 
chief  of  the  Yandals,  and  was  destroyed.  It  was  reconquered  by 
the  Arabs,  who  armed  piratical  vessels,  which  became  so  formi- 
dable that  the  Spanish  king,  Ferdinand,  fitted  out  an  expedition, 
and  occupied  a  small  island  in  front  of  the  city,  where  the  light- 
house now  stands.  The  Algerines  called  to  their  aid  the  cele- 
brated pirate,  Barbarossa,  who  was  checked  by  the  Spaniards. 
Furious  with  his  defeat,  he  seized  and  killed  the  sovereign,  and 
took  possession  of  the  city. 

All  the  efforts  of  the  Spaniards  were  defeated,  and  the  fleet 
destroyed  by  tempests  or  otherwise. 

The  brother  of  Barbarossa,  Kair-ed-din,  with  the  aid  of  thirty- 
six  thousand  Christian  slaves,  for  three  years  united  the  island 
with  the  main  land,  and  formed  a  port  for  his  vessels.  After  his 
death  it  became  the  property  of  the  Turks. 

The  city  suffered  various  changes  of  masters,  and  was  deso- 
lated by  plagues  and  earthquakes,  and  other  scourges,  too 
numerous  to  mention,  until  the  French  Consul-General  was 
insulted  in  1827,  which  led  to  a  strict  blockade,  maintained  in 
1829,  and  finished  with  thirty-five  thousand  troops  in  1830,  by 
blowing  up  the  fort  mentioned,  which  commands  the  city ;  the 
Dey  was  shortly  after  transported  to  Italy. 

I  notice  the  results  of  the  earthquake  of  last  year  in  many 
of  the  mosques,  as  well  as  private  buildings.  The  govern- 
ment botanical  gardens,  on  the  sea-shore,  beyond  the  pretty 
residences  of  the  Europeans,  in  the  village  of  Mustapha,  are 
worth  visiting. 

Here  are  found  date  trees  filled  with  fruit,  sugar-canes,  bananas, 
oranges,  lemons,  indeed  all  sorts  of  tropical  fruits  and  produc- 
tions, calculated  to  encourage  the  Arab  races  in  agriculture ;  and 
as  the  caravans  of  mules,  donkeys,  and  camels,  pass  along  loaded 
with  articles  for  market,  their  owners  and  drivers  can  see  what 
the  labor  of  man  is  capable  of  producing.  The  principal  agri- 
cultural colonists  are  Spaniards  and  Maltese.  The  French,  it 
would  seem,  are  nnwilling  to  leave  La  Belle  France,  excepting 
those  engaged  in  commerce  and  mechanical  operations ;  their 
ideas  are  still  confounded  with  apprehensions  of  fever,  the  attacks 


476  GOVERNMENT   BALL. 

of  Arabs,  the  ravages  of  lions,  jackals,  hyenas,  and  other  beasts 
of  prey,  the  legitimate  result  of  the  thousand  and  one  narratives 
of  returned  soldiers.  The  government  makes  every  effort  to 
induce  colonists  to  accept  concessions  of  land,  but  the  work 
moves  tardily,  and  they  learn  with  surprise  that  thousands  and 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  Germans  and  other  Europeans  emigrate 
to  America,  while  Algeria  affords  a  home  for  all  who  choose  to 
accept  it.  The  truth  is,  these  people  are  tired  of  monarchy  and 
military  rule,  and  breathe  freer  in  the  United  States,  with  a 
brighter  prospect  for  the  future. 

The  theatre  is  a  structure  of  some  pretensions ;  a  ball  was 
recently  given  there,  under  the  patronage  of  Madame  Eandon, 
the  wife  of  the  Governor-Greneral  of  Algeria,  for  the  benefit  of 
the  poor,  and  was  well  attended  by  the  elite  of  the  city.  The 
balcony  of  the  first  tier  was  occupied  by  about  fifty  Jewesses,  in 
full  Algeria  costume,  and  produced  a  pretty  effect.  They  wear 
vests  or  bodices  of  colored  silks,  embroidered  with  gold  ;  sashes 
and  flowing  robes  of  rich  stuffs  ;  head-dresses  of  silks,  or  conical 
caps  made  of  gold  coins ;  head-bands  of  diamonds,  as  well  as 
necklaces  of  emeralds,  pearls,  and  rubies ;  armlets  of  gold,  with 
jewels  piled  on  in  profusion,  producing  a  blaze  of  light  eclipsing 
the  gas  of  the  establishment.  The  second  tier  was  occupied 
with  quiet,  grave  Musselmans,  with  the  red  fez,  and  white 
turbans.  These  two  classes,  of  course,  do  not  dance,  but  watch 
intently  the  fashionable  crinoline- dressed  European  ladies,  join- 
ing in  the  giddy  waltz  or  polka  upon  the  stage  or  platform 
below.  The  foyer,  or  saloon,  was  fitted  up  for  refreshments  and 
gaming,  and  I  noticed  that  both  Jews  and  Musselmans  of  the 
wealthy  class  like  the  excitement  of  play. 

The  whole  of  Kabyle  is  subject  to  French  rule,  since  the  con- 
quest of  last  autumn,  and  all  is  tranquil  in  that  direction.  Hav- 
ing lost  all  hope  of  recovering  his  liberty,  the  Arab,  formerly 
accustomed  to  a  wandering  life  in  the  interior,  must  now  see  the 
necessity  of  fixing  himself  on  the  soil  in  the  neighborhood  of 
towns  and  villages,  and  supplying  the  markets  with  his  produc- 
tions. Their  habits  of  economy  and  frugality  enable  them  to 
accumulate  and  hoard  money  ;  their  consumption  of  French  arti- 
cles is  small,  however;  consequent! _v,  the  money  concealed  or 
kept  out  of  circulation  is  a  loss  to  the  empire.  The  possession 
of  this  large  teri'itory  by  Franco,  say  two  hundred  and  fifty 


MEDEAH.  477 

leagues  of  coast  from  east  to  west,  and  fifty  leagues  from  north 
to  south,  may  prove  in  time  a  source  of  revenue,  but  at  present 
it  is  attended  with  great  expense.  The  outlay  is  some  twelve 
millions  of  dollars,  the  receipts  about  two  millions.  It  is  a  fine 
military  school  for  the  fifty  thousand  troops  employed  in  keeping 
possession.  If  once  properly  colonized,  it  would  give  France  a 
full  supply  of  grain.  As  to  the  product  of  cotton,  I  doubt  if  it 
can  ever  be  cultivated  here  in  competition  with  our  Southern 
States,  notwithstanding  the  projDOsition  of  introducing  the 
apprentice  system  for  negroes  from  Soudan.  The  African 
wheat  and  barley  are  of  excellent  quality ;  corn  is  tolerable ; 
tobacco  can  be  raised  in  great  quantities,  but  the  quality  does 
not  compare  with  ours.  At  the  Museum  or  Exposition  of  Indus- 
try, I  have  examined  all  the  products  of  the  provinces.  In  the 
event  of  a  general  war  in  Europe,  and  a  rising  of  the  Arabs, 
France  might  be  obliged  to  abandon  the  interior  and  occupy  the 
sea-ports  only. 

We  have  had  some  rain,  and  the  roads  are  bad.  As  soon  as 
they  improve  I  shall  go  in  the  interior,  and  reconnoitre  the 
ground,  visit  the  towns  and  villages,  and  attend  the  fairs  of  cat- 
tle, sheep  and  horses. 


CXXIX. 

Medeah,  Provixce  of  Algiers,  Africa.  Feb.  15,  1858. 

Medeah  is  built  in  amphitheatre  form,  upon  an  inclined  plane 
beyond  the  first  chain  of  the  Atlas  Mountains,  some  twenty- 
three  leagues  south  of  Algiers ;  it  is  some  three  thousand  six 
hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  is  rather  difiicult  of 
ascent.     It  is  the  site  of  the  ancient  kingdom  of  Tittery. 

Medeah  has  been  occupied  four  times  by  the  French  troops, 
since  1830,  and  indefinitely  in  1840.  The  hostilities  of  1830 
demonstrated  that  so  long  as  the  Arabs  were  free  to  organize 
forces  in  the  mountains  and  make  sudden  attacks,  there  was  no 
safety.  The  occupation  of  this  point  with  troops  makes  it  per- 
fectly tranquil.  Abdel  Kader,  whose  prison  I  visited  at  Amboise 
in  France  a  few  years  since,  and  whose  exploits  are  often  brought 
up  in  this  country,  gave  the  French  much  trouble. 

One  of  the  greatest  achievements  was  in  the  zisrzao;  road  con- 


478  BOUFERECK. 

structed  by  the  French  arni}^  through  the  gorges  of  the  river 
Chiffa,  some  four  leagues  m  length,  which  enabled  them  to  con- 
quer the  country  of  the  warrior  Arabs  of  the  mountains.  The 
points  of  view  through  these  rocky  passes,  with  their  precipices, 
towering  masses  of  rock  above,  and  deep  chasms  below,  in  many 
places  without  parapets,  look  frightful  in  making  the  ascent.  I 
was  reminded  by  it  of  a  road  constructed  by  the  English  in  the 
Island  of  Ceylon,  which  I  once  described  to  you,  and  which  was 
the  only  means  of  conquering  the  mountain  King  of  Kandy.  In 
one  of  these  mountains  there  are  large  numbers  of  monkeys, 
which  may  be  seen  clambering  up  the  rocks  and  branches  of 
trees,  and  basking  in  the  sun's  rays.  Gibraltar  is  the  only  point 
in  Europe  where  they  exist,  and  they  are  supposed  to  have  been 
introduced  there  from  Africa.  One  passes  through  several  large 
towns  on  his  way  to  this  place.  Douera,  which  was  a  camp  in 
1830,  is  now  quite  a  town,  with  a  wall  around  it,  and  gates  for 
protection,  and  the  imposition  of  octroi  duties.  The  country 
produces  cotton,  tobacco,  cereal  grains,  and  pasturage  for  ani- 
mals. When  water  is  not  abundant,  as  they  are  subject  to 
drought  on  the  plains,  wells  are  dug  for  irrigation. 

Boufereck  was  the  first  post  established  on  the  plain  of 
Misidza,  in  1830,  when  the  army  advanced  to  Blidah  for  the 
first  time.  It  was  then  humid,  surrounded  with  marshes  and 
bad  exhalations.  It  was  known  for  a  long  time  as  the  cemetery 
for  soldiers  and  colonists ;  but  it  is  now  quite  healthy.  The 
weekly  market  of  the  Arabs,  bringing  in  all  the  tribes  from  the 
surrounding  country,  with  horses,  cattle,  goats,  &c.,  is  a  striking 
feature  in  that  settlement.  The  inclosure  of  the  grounds  is 
ample,  with  a  mosque  adjacent  for  the  Mussulman  to  say  his 
prayers  in.  One  often  sees  them  by  the  roadside  prostrating 
themselves  towards  Mecca  in  the  east.  Often  in  towns  and  cities 
you  pass  from  the  bazaars  and  densely-crowded  streets  directly 
into  the  mosques,  with  fountains  of  water  in  the  court,  as  in  Con- 
stantinople, where  they  wash  their  feet  and  trip  in  upon  the  mat- 
ting and  carpet  rugs  to  pay  their  devotion,  while  you  hear  the 
cry  of  the  muezzin  from  the  lofty  minaret  adjoining,  calling  the 
faithful  to  prayers.  The  mosques  are  generally  plain,  with 
whitewashed  walls,  and  lamps  suspended,  as  well  as  ostrich 
eggs  strung  upon  cords.  Some,  however,  are  of  beautiful  Moor- 
ish architecture,  with  an  infinity  of  columns,  and  a  great  variety 


TOMB   OF   THE   MARABOUT.  479 

of  arabesque  work.  The  mausoleum  or  tomb  of  tbe  Marabout 
is  much  venerated,  being  a  sort  of  pilgrimage  for  the  devout 
believer. 

An  anecdote  was  related  to  me  in  visiting  the  edifice  erected 
to  the  memory  of  the  Marabout ;  it  is  upon  a  hill,  a  beautiful 
position,  outside  the  walls  of  Algiers. 

The  Koran  forbids  the  use  of  wine  and  all  alcoholic  drinks, 
still  the  holy  man  indulged  freely,  being  supplied  by  the  perse- 
cuted Jews,  who  took  this  way  to  obtain  the  favor  of  the  chief 
of  the  sect.  There  being  a  sort  of  veneration  for  idiots,  this 
besotted  individual  was  once  aroused  by  the  cries  of  the  people, 
that  the  enemy's  vessels  were  off  the  port  and  approaching  the 
city.  With  difficulty  awakened  from  his  stupor  he  cried  out, 
"  Where  are  the  infidel  dogs  ?  Give  me  a  whip  and  I  will  lash 
them  off  the  surface  of  the  great  deep."  Reeling  on  the  seaside 
he  slashed  away  upon  the  calm  surface  of  the  water,  venting  his 
anathemas  and  imprecations.  As  fortune  willed  it,  one  of  those 
sudden  tempests  arose,  not  unfrequent  in  this  latitude,  and  the 
vessels  were  driven  off  or  dashed  to  pieces.  He  was  shrewd 
enough  when  he  witnessed  this  singular  phenomenon  to  take 
advantage  of  it,  and  exhorted  the  people  to  exhibit  greater  faith 
for  the  future.  A  temple  was  erected  over  his  tomb,  and  his 
memory  perpetuated  to  posterity. 

I  passed  a  couple  of  days  at  Blidah,  some  twelve  leagues  fx"om 
Algiers.  It  is  the  chief  place  of  the  first  military  division,  at  the 
foot  of  the  Little  Atlas  mountain.  It  has  a  population  of  fifteen 
thousand  Arabs  and  foreigners ;  it  is  surrounded  with  a  belt  of 
foliage,  forests  of  orange,  lemon,  fig,  olive,  and  palm  trees,  which 
give  it  the  air  of  a  delicious  garden.  The  Arabs  call  it  The 
Voluptuous.  In  1825  it  was  visited  by  an  earthquake,  which 
entirely  destroyed  it,  with  one  half  of  its  eighteen  thousand  inha- 
bitants. On  the  23d  of  July,  1830,  after  the  occupation  of 
Algiers  by  the  French,  the  Greneral  advanced  to  this  place,  and 
was  well  received,  but  in  returning  was  attacked  by  the  Kabyles. 

The  European  part  of  the  town  is  well  built,  with  regular 
streets,  public  squares,  cafes,  and  a  theatre ;  the  Arab  part  has 
narrow  streets,  low,  one-story,  whitewashed  houses,  with  a  single 
door  or  hole  in  the  wall  for  entrance,  and  little  portholes  or  lat- 
ticed windows  for  the  women  to  peep  out.  The  women  are 
rarely   seen   in   the   streets,    and  never  in  the  mosques ;  when 


480  BLIDAH. 

they  come  out  they  are  closely  veiled  in  white  shawls,  which 
show  the  eyes  only. 

The  Arab  market  at  Bliclah  exhibited  horses,  cattle,  grain, 
dried  fruits,  hog  skins,  or  rather  wild  boar  skins,  filled  with 
olive  oil,  wool,  charcoal,  &c. ;  the  Arabs  buy  iron,  hardware, 
coffee,  sugar,  thread,  and  such  things  as  are  actually  necessary. 

I  visited  the  haras,  or  government  stables  of  the  Arabian, 
Persian,  and  Syrian  stallions,  some  eighty  in  number,  one  of 
which,  El  Haz,  presented  by  the  emperor,  cost  forty -four  hun- 
dred dollars. 

The  environs  of  Blidah  are  enchanting ;  the  supply  of  water 
for  irrigation,  from  the  mountains,  is  abundant,  and  the  climate 
lovely  even  at  this  season  of  the  year.  The  Arab  poet,  Hamed 
Youssef,  said,  "  They  call  thee  a  little  city,  I  call  thee  a  charming 
little  rose."  I  was  reminded  of  a  lovely  little  spot,  called 
Soler,  in  the  island  of  Majorca,  where  one  rides  for  miles 
through  orange  groves,  which,  like  those  of  Blidah,  are  exported 
to  France.  I  noticed,  m  passing  through  the  village  of  Ben 
Mered,  an  obelisk  erected  to  the  memory  of  twenty-two  soldiers 
who  were  attacked  by  three  hundred  horsemen  of  Ben  Salem, 
in  the  year  1842,  and  all  killed  after  the  most  heroic  resistance. 
Only  one,  a  sergeant,  who  was  wounded  and  left  for  dead,  could 
give  the  details.  The  young  sergeant,  in  the  midst  of  the  con- 
flict, fell,  mortally  wounded,  with  the  words  upon  his  lips, 
"  Friends,  remember  that  the  French  never  surrender,  but 
defend  themselves  to  the  death." 

The  Arabs  in  this  part  of  the  country  are  now  turning  their 
attention  to  agriculture ;  the  plough  merel}^  scratches  the  sur- 
face, and  without  doubt,  is  the  same  used  in  the  primitive  days 
of  Abraham.  Herds  of  sheep  and  goats  are  seen  in  the  moun- 
tains with  Arab  boys  and  dogs. 


cxxx. 

CONSTANTINE,   AFRICA,   Feb.   27,    1858. 

Returning  from  Medeah  to  Algiers,  I  embarked  on  board 
of  a  French  government  steamer  for  Stora.  We  landed  troops  at 
Delys,  Bougie,  and  Dzidzelle,  and  after  a  two  days'  run,  arrived 
at  Stora,  and  proceeded  to  Philippeville  to  procure  a  conveyance 


CONSTANTINE.  481 

for   this   city,    wliicli  is   situated   some    seventy   miles   in   the 
interior. 

Constantine  is  the  Cirta  of  the  ancients,  the  Cossentina  of  the 
Arabs.  It  is  situated  upon  the  river  Khumel,  at  the  point  where 
the  torrent  crosses  the  elevated  mountains  to  penetrate  the  upper 
basin  of  the  plains  of  Milah,  The  ancient  capital  of  Jugurtha 
is  now  the  chief  city  of  the  eastern  province  of  Algeria.  It 
lies  some  eighteen  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Mediterra- 
nean, upon  a  triangular  plateau.  This  plateau  is  surrounded  by 
the  two  branches  of  the  river,  and  crowned  by  the  heights  of 
Mausourah  and  of  Sidi-Merid,  from  which  it  is  separated  by 
deep  chasms  and  precipices,  at  the  bottom  of  which  courses  the 
Rhumel,  with  its  wild  and  magnificent  cataracts.  It  has  the 
aspect  of  a  lofty  island,  with  its  high  rocks,  almost  perpendicular, 
rendering  the  city  almost,  or  quite,  invulnerable,  with  its  strong 
gates  and  fortifications.  Constantine  has  been  the  scene  of  great 
events  in  the  grand  history  of  Africa.  The  founder  of  the  city 
was  said  to  have  been  a  Greek  adventurer,  250  years  B.C.  Marva 
reigned  over  the  Mumides.  It  was  in  turn  occupied  by  Masi- 
nissa  and  his  sons.  Juba  sided  with  Pompey,  and  was  chased 
by  Bogad,  king  of  Sittius,  who  founded  a  Roman  colony. 

Cgesar  undertook  great  works,  and  one  finds  many  of  the  old 
walls,  ramparts,  and  inscriptions  remaining.  The  ancient  aque- 
ducts, the  ruins  of  which  still  stand,  some  forty  feet  high,  about 
a  mile  from  the  city,  are  said  to  be  the  work  of  the  emperor 
Justinian.  The  invasion  of  the  Arabs  destroyed  the  opulent 
city,  and  it  passed  from  one  to  another  among  all  the  African 
conquerors ;  it  was  in  the  hands  of  the  Turks  in  the  sixteenth 
century,  and  afterwards  in  the  hands-  of  the  Deys  of  Algiers, 
many  of  whom  were  assassinated. 

The  last,  Iladz- Ahmed  Dey,  kept  rt  the  longest,  but  it  was  by 
oppressing  his  subjects.  From  1826  to  1830  he  cut  off  the 
heads  of  some  three  thousand  of  his  people,  and  committed  the 
most  revolting  deeds.  At  that  time  the  French  government 
denounced  his  acts,  and  named  the  brother  of  the  Bey  of  Tunis 
his  successor ;  but  he  managed  to  keep  possession  until  1836, 
when  Marshal  Clausel  attacked  them,  at  the  head  of  an  insuffi- 
cient army,  but  was  driven  back  from  this  stronghold,  and 
obliged  to  retreat. 

The  next  year,  however,  a  body  of  ten  thousand  men,  with  the 

31 


482  LION  HUNTING. 

second  son  of  Louis  Philippe  in  the  avant  garde,  took  the  city 
by  assault,  General  Damremont  losing  his  life  in  the  attack.  I 
find  his  monument  in  an  inclosure  of  the  ancient  casbah  or  fort, 
near  the  caserne  and  hospital  grounds,  which  are  now  crowned 
by  large  structures.  I  have  just  visited  them  in  company  with 
my  present  travelling  companion,  a  captain  in  the  Russian  army, 
sent  out  for  general  observation.  The  French  officers  have 
shown  us  much  civility  and  attention,  making  our  stay  here 
agreeable. 

The  reservoirs  constructed  by  the  Eomans  upon  the  summit 
are  repaired  thoroughly,  and  contain  a  full  supply  of  water  for 
a  long  siege.  The  view  from  these  points  is  of  the  boldest 
character.  The  city  is  now  divided  in  two  quarters,  Arab  and 
French,  and  offers  the  most  striking  contrast. 

The  Arabs  said  that  Constantine  was  a  rock  in  the  middle 
of  a  river,  and  that  it  would  require  as  many  French  to  take  it 
as  ants  to  take  an  egg  from  the  bottom  of  a  pot  of  milk ;  but 
in  this  they  found  their  error,  and  concluded  it  was  the  will  of 
the  Prophet.  The  trade  of  the  city  with  Biskarah  is  large  in 
dried  dates,  and  with  Setif  and  other  ports  in  wool ;  ostrich 
feathers,  elephants'  tusks,  and  gold  dust  arc  seen  in  small 
quantities.  At  Philippeville,  on  the  coast,  I  found  some 
English  officers  who  came  out  to  join  the  famous  Jules  Gerard, 
the  lion  slayer.  They  were  going  to  form  a  camp  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Bona,  further  ujo  the  coast.  I  shall  probably 
meet  them  again  when  I  get  up  there,  and  learn  what  success 
they  meet  with.  The  conductor  of  our  stage  has  assured  us 
that  at  one  point  near  El  Cantour,  a  dreary  mountainous  country, 
lions  are  known  to  follow  the  vehicle  when  driven  to  extremity 
for  want  of  food.  Not  a  very  pleasant  prospect  for  a  traveller. 
I  saw  the  skin  of  a  famous  fellow,  some  sixteen  feet  in  length, 
recently  killed.  The  jackals,  hyenas,  and  wild  boars  are 
abundant ;  the  latter  may  be  seen  in  quantities  in  the  market 
places,  filled  with  olive  oil,  which  is  brought  on  the  backs 
of  camels.  We  passed  through  sections  of  the  country  entirely 
uninhabited,  where  the  wild  olive  and  cork  wood  grow  in 
abundance.  In  the  settlements  they  engraft  the  domestic  olive, 
which  does  well. 

The  Arab  cultivation  here  is  meagre  and  primitive  ;  the  plough 
is   drawn   by   a   camel   and  donkey  yoked  together — rather  a 


MOHAMMEDAN   FANATICISM.  483 

ludicrous  siglit.  If  the  Arab  Las  a  surplus  of  grain,  or  the 
price  does  not  suit  him,  having  no  barns,  he  buries  it  in  pits  pre- 
pared for  the  purpose.  His  tent  can  be  transported  easily  with  his 
small  household  effects,  consisting  of  a  few  earthen  or  copper 
cooking  utensils,  or  he  can  throw  up  a  mud  hovel  and  thatch  it 
with  the  leaves  of  the  date  or  other  trees. 

He  mounts  his  horses  or  camels,  with  his  wives  and  children 
upon  their  backs,  and  emigrates  to  another  place  where  the  land 
suits  him  better.  The  women,  whose  faces  we  occasionally  get 
a  peep  at,  wear  a  profusion  of  bracelets,  anklets,  and  huge  rings 
from  the  top  and  bottom  of  the  ears.  One  would  suppose  them 
too  weighty  for  this  tender  part  to  sustain.  In  the  city  the 
wives  of  the  wealthy  Moors  are  beautifully  clad  with  ornaments; 
they  are  fond  of  monotonous  music  and  the  lascivious  dancing 
of  the  professed  dancing  girls,  not  unlike  that  of  the  dancing 
girls  of  Egypt.  The  fair  daughters  of  Judea,  whose  faces  are 
always  uncovered,  have  preserved  their  type  of  beauty  here. 
I  have  seen  the  howling  and  whirling  Dervishes  of  Constanti- 
nople, the  adoration  of  brazen  bulls  in  India,  the  prostration 
of  the  Chinese  before  their  heathen  gods,  the  Parsee  worship 
of  the  rising  sun,  the  dancing  of  Shakers,  as  well  as  most 
varieties  of  worship,  but  I  have  never  yet  witnessed  such  a 
horrible  exhibition  of  fanaticism  as  in  a  little  temple  here.  The 
building  was  a  plain  one,  not  unlike  a  whitewashed  Moham- 
medan mosque,  with  arches  and  columns,  ostrich  eggs  strung 
upon  cords,  and  suspended  lamps.  Upon  the  matting  and  rugs 
squatted  a  centre  group  of  musicians,  with  tambourines  and 
tamtams,  a  sort  of  kettle-drum.  Around  the  walls  were  seated 
rows  of  men  and  boys.  My  companion  and  mj'self  crossed  our 
legs,  tailor-like,  in  line  with  the  devotees,  and  awaited  the 
working  of  the  spirit. 

Then  commenced  monotonous,  plaintive  singing,  accompanied 
by  the  musicians  moving  their  heads  backwards  and  forwards 
until  the  sounds  became  wild  and  discordant,  when  a  huge, 
dark,  Bedouin-faced  figure  unrolled  his  turban,  threw  down  his 
red  fez,  while  a  heavy  tufi  of  long  hair  floated  over  his 
shoulders  like  the  mane  of  a  lion,  then  his  eyes  rolling 
furiously,  and  his  head  swaying  as  if  it  was  on  a  pivot,  he  threw 
himself  among  the  crowd,  raving  and  snarling  like  a  dog,  and 
attempting  to  bite  all  who  came  in  his  way.     At  length  he  was 


484  PHILIPPEVILLE. 

appeased,  with  horse  nails,  scorpions,  &c. ;  he  licked  red  hot 
iron,  much  to  the  enjoj^ment  of  the  audience,  who  indulged  in 
the  wildest  strains  of  music  and  songs  of  delight.  After  which 
performance,  dancing,  the  most  extravagant  and  arduous,  was 
continued  until  several  fell  frothing  at  the  mouth,  and  were 
carried  out  of  the  circle.  This  curious  spectacle  continued 
about  two  hours  on  the  Musselman  sabbath,  which  is  Friday. 
It  was  curious  to  see  the  boys  imitate  the  shaking  of  the  head 
and  body  of  the  leaders  of  the  sect.  The  turmoil  ceases  at 
intervals,  prayers  are  muttered,  incense  burned,  and  the  parties 
take  breath  only  to  renew  the  frenzy  and  excitment.  On  the 
public  square  you  see  snake  charmers  and  jugglers,  who  rival 
those  of  Madras. 


CXXXI. 

Tunis,  Africa,  March  13, 1858. 

From  Canstantine,  the  capital  of  the  eastern  province  of 
Algeria,  seventy  miles  in  the  interior,  I  proceeded  to  the  sea- 
coast  at  Philippeville  and  Stora,  to  embark  for  Bona  and  Tunis. 

Philippeville  is  a  modern  French  town  on  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Kussicada,  with  an  open  roadstead ;  Stora,  a  league 
distant,,  serves  as  a  seaport,  and  is  protected  from  almost  all  the 
winds.  Philippeville  has  a  future,  being  the  commercial  and 
military  centre  for  Constantine  and  eastern  Algeria.  The 
environs  are  picturesque  and  productive  of  tropical  fruits.  The 
remains  of  a  Eoman  amphitheatre  are  found  there,  also  statues, 
Corinthian  columns,  and  the  cisterns  or  reservoirs  which  formerly 
supplied  the  ancient  city.  Nine  of  them  have  been  repaired, 
and  now  furnish  the  town  with  water. 

From  Stora  I  came  by  steamer  to  Bona,  the  seat  of  the  second 
military  division.  This  city  was  constructed  in  the  year  497  by 
the  Arabs  with  the  remains  of  the  ancient  and  beautiful  city  of 
Hippona,  about  two  miles  distant.  It  was  founded  by  the 
Carthaginians  and  called  Ubbo.  It  lay  at  the  foot  of  two  hills, 
with  the  river  Seybouse  passing  by,  and  vessels  came  up  at  that 
time  to  the  city.  In  the  year  709  of  Rome,  Scipio,  a  fugitive, 
beaten  by  the  tempest,  took  refuge  here  with  his  little  fleet, 
which  was  destroyed  by  Sittius,  the  lieutenant  of  CaBsar. 


TUNIS.  485 

In  tae  year  429  a.d.  the  Vandals  besieged  Ilippona  and 
destroyed  it  in  part.  It  was  retaken  by  Belisare,  but  the  Arabs 
took  it  again  in  697,  and  transported  to  Arabia  the  present 
French  town  of  Bona.  The  kings  of  Tunis  built  the  Casbah 
or  citadel  in  the  year  1304.  It  has  changed  hands  many  times, 
and  has  been  burnt  and  destroyed ;  in  1832  the  French  took 
complete  possession.  Many  improvements  have  taken  place ; 
the  country  is  tolerably  cultivated  in  the  environs,  and  some 
fine  works  have  been  established. 

We  had  cleverly  got  to  sea  from  Bona  when  a  sudden 
norther  came  down  upon  us  and  obliged  our  steamer  to  take 
refuge  under  the  lee  of  a  fort  and  projecting  cape ;  after  it 
subsided  we  pushed  on  the  next  day  to  the  Bay  of  Tunis,  and 
landed  at  the  village  and  port  of  Goletta,  some  twelve  miles 
from  the  city ;  it  can  be  reached  by  land  or  water,  the  latter 
way  by  a  salt  lake. 

Here,  in  this  city  of  one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  the 
largest  proportion  of  whom  are  Arabs,  one  finds  himself  out  of 
the  pale  of  French  civilization.  In  Algeria  life  may  be 
considered  tolerably  safe,  but  here,  such  is  the  fanaticism  of  the 
Musselman,  and  so  little  the  respect  paid  to  Christians,  that  one 
is  naturally  cautions  in  his  movements.  The  mosques  cannot 
be  entered  as  in  Constantinople,  Algiers,  and  other  places ;  the 
cemeteries  cannot  be  defiled  by  infidels.  The  five  gates  of  the 
city  are  closed  at  six  in  the  afternoon.  All  persons  found  out 
by  the  armed  sentinels  after  seven  in  the  afternoon,  without 
lanterns,  are  taken  to  the  guard-house  and  released  upon  the 
consul's  application  in  the  morning.  An  instance  of  intolerance 
occurred  last  June,  which  created  a  sensation  far  and  wide.  I 
passed  the  gate  recently  where  the  Jew  (you  will  recollect  the 
circumstance),  meeting  with  some  obstacle,  anathematized 
Mahomet ;  he  was  maltreated,  thrown  into  prison  and  condemned 
to  be  executed,  and  notwithstanding  the  protestations  of  various 
consuls,  was  decapitated  and  literally  cut  into  pieces  by  the 
exasperated  populace.  The  French  sent  down  a  squadron,  and 
at  last  obtained  redress  from  the  Bey,  in  promises  for  the  future 
privileges  of  Jews  and  Christians.  Here  one  finds  African  life 
in  its  natural  condition,  beyond  the  reach  of  French  officers  and 
soldiery. 

The  miserable,  sallow-looking  troops  are  dressed  in  round 


486  AEAB   HORSEMANSHIP. 

jackets  and  pantaloons,  with  tlae  fez,  or  cap  of  red  cloth,  ill 
adapted  to  a  hot  climate.  The  streets  are  narrow  and  wretchedly 
filthy  ;  all  the  offal  is  thrown  into  them,  and  where  hogs  do  not 
exist  as  scavengers,  the  dogs,  who  are  always  numerous,  supply 
in  some  measure  the  defect.  When  it  rains,  the  black  mud  is 
difficult  to  wade  through,  as  there  is  no  pavement,  and  pattens 
are  brought  in  requisition.    The  stench  from  filth  is  abominable. 

The  bazaars  are  interesting  to  visit,  on  account  of  their  dis- 
play of  rich  silks,  costumes,  smoking  pipes  with  amber  mouth- 
pieces, otto  of  roses,  embroideries  of  all  kinds,  and  rich  trap- 
pings for  saddles  and  bridles. 

The  Arab  cafes,  with  their  thirty  to  forty  inmates,  sitting 
cross-legged,  sipping  coffee  in  little  cups,  and  listening  to  guitars 
and  national  airs,  are  curious  to  look  into.  The  little  barber 
shops  are  found  everywhere,  and  busy  enough  are  their  masters, 
shaving  the  skulls  of  the  faithful.  A  pile  of  shoes  is  always  at 
the  door,  as  the  Arabs  step  upon  the  mats  and  rugs,  and  then 
draw  their  shoes  off,  and  draw  their  feet  up  under  them.  You 
are  elbowed  in  the  streets  by  negroes  and  Arabs  of  the  different 
races,  dark-eyed  boys,  camels  and  mules  laden  with  olives,  olive 
oil,  fruits,  and  vegetables,  and  surrounded  by  the  cries  of  ven- 
dors, and  the  confusion  of  tongues.  The  exterior  Moorish 
architecture  of  some  of  the  mosques,  and  the  light  and  airy 
minarets,  are  attractive  to  the  eye  as  you  look  up  and  espy  the 
Muezzin  crying  out  the  hour  of  prayer.  The  supreme  power  is 
vested  in  the  Bey,  who  has  several  palaces  in  the  city  and 
country.  He  is  now  residing  some  nine  miles  hence,  along  the 
shore,  whither  I  have  been  to  witness  an  Arab  fantasie,  or  dis- 
play of  horsemanship. 

An  artillery  regiment  lay  encamped  directly  opposite  the 
immense  palace,  with  its  latticed  windows,  domes,  terraces,  and 
four  hundred  and  fifty  inmates,  including  the  harem,  eunuchs, 
servants,  officials,  and  relatives  of  the  Bey's  wives.  Two  huge, 
uncouth,  painted  lions  were  seen  over  the  inner  porch  ;  sentinels, 
stacks  of  muskets,  and  officers,  civil  and  military,  were  in  the 
front  of  the  doors,  together  with  the  sons  of  the  sovereign,  and 
when  the  Bey  presented  himself  at  the  window,  the  equestrian 
exercise  commenced.  There  were  forty  horsemen,  accompanied 
by  two  Kadis  and  three  Scheiks  of  tribes  in  the  ititerior,  who 
were   dressed   in   the   most  luxurious   costumes   of   silks   and 


ANCIENT   CARTHAGE.  487 

embroidered  cloth  flowing  robes,  their  arms,  saddles,  and  bridles 
glittering  with  gold  and  silver  filigree  work.  Starting  at  some 
distance,  they  came  down  singly,  and  in  groups  of  three  or  five, 
upon  full  gallop,  drawing  and  discharging  their  carabines  as  they 
passed  by,  and  suddenly  reining  up  and  whirling  their  guns  in 
the  air — a  most  exciting  and  wild  scene,  beautifully  executed. 
Others  were  dancing  their  horses  to  the  sounds  of  drums  and 
flutes,  and  making  all  sorts  of  evolutions  around  the  sentinels, 
describing  a  figure  eight,  and  embracing  the  sentinels  without 
treading  on  their  toes.  The  homage  paid  was  recompensed  by 
rich  and  costly  presents  sent  out  to  the  victors. 

While  the  authorities  are  revelling  in  luxuries,  the  poor  suffer 
the  penalty.  Three  thousand  troops  have  just  been  sent  out,  to 
be  absent  some  months,  for  the  purpose  of  collecting  taxes  and 
imposts,  which  are  enforced  by  the  baj^onet. 

The  country  is  beautifully  fertile  and  productive.  We  rode 
through  miles  of  olive  groves.  The  Bey  has  a  famous  oil  mill, 
driven  by  steam  power,  under  the  direction  of  Europeans.  The 
olives,  when  fully  ripened,  are  sent  in  panniers  upon  camels' 
backs,  and  crushed  by  machinery ;  the  oil  is  then  pressed  out. 
Our  Consul  and  some  others  made  up  a  party  for  Gomart,  twelve 
miles  distant,  where  we  found  some  catacombs ;  but  to  one  wlio 
had  seen  those  of  Thebes  they  afforded  but  little  interest. 

The  friends  we  visited  occupied  a  palace  which  had  been  built 
by  Christian  slave  labor  during  the  piratical  days  of  this  people. 
The  amount  of  labor  performed  in  the  construction,  with  its 
fountains,  basins,  orange,  lemon,  and  date  groves,  must  have 
exhausted  the  patience  of  these  poor  prisoners. 

The  ancient  city  of  Carthage  lies  along  the  sea  shore,  some 
twelve  miles  from  Tunis,  and  is  quite  accessible  by  carriage 
drive.  We  visited  Mr.  Davis,  the  gentleman  emploj^ed  by  the 
British  government  in  excavating  the  antiquities,  and  accompa- 
nied him  in  these  explorations.  The  site  of  the  great  temple  of 
Esculapius  is  plainly  visible,  and  a  portion  of  the  foundation 
walls  and  staircases.  He  has  forty  men  employed,  and  we  dis- 
covered the  basements  of  several  houses  where  the  mosaic  floors 
were  quite  perfect  and  very  beautiful.  Many  large  boxes  have 
been  sent  to  the  British  Museum.  The  ancient  port  of  the  city 
is  still  distinguishable. 

The  traces  of  the  aqueducts  are  well  defined,  and  large  masses 


488  TRIPOLI. 

of  stone  still  stand.  The  reservoirs  for  water,  seventeen  in 
number,  are  in  the  best  state  of  preservation  ;  they  are  evidently 
of  Eoman  construction. 

The  circuit  of  twenty  miles,  where  stood  the  great  city,  is 
now  under  cultivation,  scarcely  leaving  any  vestige  of  existence 
above  the  surface. 


CXXXII. 


Tripoli,  Coast  of  Barbart,  Africa,  April  1,  1858. 

The  land  route  from  Tunis  is  attended  with  so  much  fatigue 
and  risk,  that  I  took  the  steamer  for  Malta,  and  embarked  for 
this  port,  where  we  arrived  in  the  midst  of  a  violent  norther, 
the  waves  dashing  violently  among  the  breakers,  and  landed, 
much  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  concerned ;  particularly,  two 
Turkish  Beys,  with  their  harems,  from  Constantinople,  who 
were  my  fellow  passengers.  The  women  were  under  lock  and 
key,  but  notwithstanding  the  sea-sickness  of  their  liege  lords,  as 
well  as  the  eunuchs,  I  noticed  the  jealous  glances  cast  outside  of 
their  berths  from  time  to  time. 

There  are  two  small  hotels  at  Tunis,  but  here,  none  ;  and  as  I 
had  letters  for  our  Consul,  Mr.  Gaines,  I  accepted  his  Virginian 
hospitality.  This  territory,  which  extends  to  the  Egyptian 
frontier,  is  under  Turkish  rule,  and  the  now  presiding  Pacha  is 
Osmand  Bey,  a  worthy  old  gentleman,  to  whom  I  was  presented, 
and  with  whom  I  had  a  long  chat  through  his  interpreter.  Coffee, 
sherbet,  and  confectionery  were  served,  and  long  pipes,  or  chi- 
bouks, of  jessamine  wood,  with  amber  mouth-pieces  encircled  in 
diamonds,  gave  the  Latakia  tobacco  a  good  relish.  As  strangers 
are  seldom  seen  here,  the  communication  being  rare,  it  is  rather 
gratifying  to  resident  consuls  and  others,  to  extend  facilities.  I 
am  the  first  native  American  visitor,  the  consul  tells  me,  since 
his  residence  here  of  nine  years.  An  English  government 
steamer  brought  down  a  gentleman  whose  friends  reside  here 
and  who  has  done  service  in  the  Crimea,  and  is  now  appointed 
consul  in  Kussia.  His  friends,  being  mine,  have  given  me  an 
opportunity  of  joining  in  the  festivities  and  recreations  offered 
to  the  officers.  Horses  have  been  put  at  our  disposition  for 
social  and  shooting  parties  in  the  country.     Dinners  and  evening 


WEEKLY   FAIRS,  489 

parties  have  been  constant,  and  the  time  passed  pleasantly. 
Consuls  hero,  as  well  as  at  Tunis,  wear  the  uniform  and  cap 
with  gold  band,  which  is  much  respected  by  the  natives. 

As  our  dragoman  goes  round  the  city  with  his  silver-headed 
massive  stick,  it  is  quite  amusing  to  hear  the  sergeant  present 
arms  in  Turkish  as  the  sentinels  are  passed.  There  are  some 
four  thousand  Turkish  troops  here  from  Constantinople.  The 
population  is  chiefly  Arab,  with  a  sprinkling  of  Jews  and  Mal- 
tese. The  city  contains  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants  ;  it  is  much 
cleaner  than  Tunis,  and  is  in  a  healthier  position,  and  warmer, 
being  further  south  and  nearer  the  desert.  The  country  between 
the  sea  and  the  sandy  waste  is  very  picturesque ;  it  is  mostly 
cultivated  by  means  of  irrigation,  as  the  Persian  wheels,  driven 
by  cattle,  are  seen  in  all  directions,  attached  to  the  wells. 

The  date  groves  in  all  quarters,  interspersed  with  olive,  fig, 
and  almond,  give  it  an  oriental  appearance.  The  scenery,  as 
well  as  the  costume  and  habits  of  the  people,  is  African.  Every 
variety  of  color  may  be  seen,  the  ground  being  contiguous  to 
the  races  of  the  Sahara  and  the  starting  point  for  Timbuctoo. 
The  weekly  fairs  ujDon  the  beach  are  most  primitive.  Sheep, 
goats,  and  camels  are  driven  in  and  butchered  upon  the  sand. 
You  see  the  Arabs  squatted,  barefooted,  or  in  red  and  yellow 
sandals,  around  piles  of  skins,  fruits,  vegetables,  or  grain ; 
tinkers,  in  little  date-leaved  tents,  repairing  copper  cooking 
utensils ;  itinerant  barbers  plying  their  avocations ;  donkeys 
loaded  with  wood  and  charcoal ;  squalid  figures,  black,  brown 
and  yellow,  cooking  a  scanty  meal  of  pumpkin,  red  pepper,  and 
oil ;  others  indulging  in  the  national  and  savoury  repast  of 
kouskous ; — and  a  thousand  other  sights  and  eccentricities  that 
we,  as  civilized  beings,  can  scarcely  dream  of. 

The  previous  war  steamer  that  was  down  here  brought  the 
English  Vice  Consul,  and  among  the  guests  two  English  ladies. 
The  Pasha  gave  a  review  of  the  troops  and  a  picnic  in  the 
country.  He  drove  one  of  the  ladies  in  his  own  carriage, 
followed  by  a  cavalcade — so  unusual  a  thing  for  a  Musselman, 
that  the  Arab  women  thought  he  had  taken  a  new  wife,  and 
commenced  chanting  a  merry  song,  much  to  the  lady's 
annoyance. 

A  splendid  dinner  was  given  to  the  officers,  with  abundance 
of  wine,  contrary  to  the  usage  of  Musselmans,  but  in  accordance 


490  BIRTHDAY   OF   MAHOMET. 

with  the  Pasha's  notions  of  propriety  ;  and  when  the  lady  left 
he  presented  her  a  beautiful  pony.  He  is  more  European  in 
his  conduct  than  Turkish,  and  has  set  an  example  for  others  in 
having  only  one  wife. 

Visiting  a  country-seat  a  few  days  since,  I  noticed  upon  an 
observatory  overlooking  the  seat  the  wooden  figure  of  a  hand 
nailed  up,  a  custom,  I  presume,  in  accordance  with  that  of  more 
civilized  countries,  where  horseshoes  are  fastened  over  the  doors, 
to  keep  off  the  witches.  I  asked  if  it  was  to  keep  off  the  evil 
eye,  and  the  reply  was  that  the  carpenter  would  not  continue  his 
work  until  it  was  fastened  there.  We  frequently  see  the  impres- 
sions of  hands,  in  red  and  black  marks,  upon  the  buildings ; 
such  is  the  superstition  of  the  natives. 

The  birthday  of  Mahomet  will  soon  take  place,  when  it  will  be 
unsafe  for  Jew  or  Gentile  to  appear  in  the  streets.  For  several 
days  before  the  festival  the  Marabouts  or  holy  men  commence 
eating  Indian  hemp  seed,  which  produces  delirium ;  they  then 
rush  out,  shaking  their  heads  and  bodies  violently,  followed  by 
men  and  women  chanting  and  shrieking.  They  then  perform 
miracles  by  swallowing  knives,  nails,  glass,  and  putting  red  hot 
shovels  to  their  tongues,  and  sometimes  their  fanaticism  induces 
them  to  maltreat  or  tear  to  pieces  Jews  and  Gentiles ;  and  the 
Pacha  warns  Consuls  to  keep  their  proteges  or  servants  at  home, 
as  he  cannot  be  responsible  for  them. 

We  have  had  some  excellent  gun  practice  from  the  English 
gun  boat  Vigilant,  now  in  port,  in  honor  of  the  Pacha.  The 
distance  fired  was  nearly  half  a  mile,  with  two  sixty-eight 
pounders  ;  she  carries  also  two  thirty-two  pounders.  The  target 
was  a  rock  in  the  roadstead,  painted  white.  Eounds  of  shot, 
shell,  and  grape,  were  fired  with  much  precision.  After  the 
conclusion,  and  the  partaking  of  a  collation,  the  captain  carried 
us  in  his  gig  to  examine  the  effect,  and  we  found  chain  shot  and 
broken  shell. 

I  am  invited  by  the  commander  of  this  beautiful  screw 
steamer,  of  six  hundred  and  forty  tons,  to  occupy  a  part  of  his 
cabin.  Although  I  had  paid  my  passage  on  board  the  steamer 
which  has  already  departed,  my  friends  induced  me  to  stay  a  few 
days  longer  and  accept  the  invitation.  The  old  Pacha  was  to 
have  been  on  board,  but  a  plea  of  indisposition  excused  him. 
Several  consuls  and  vice-consuls  were  among  our  number.     On 


GRAND   CAIRO.  491 

another  occasion  we  liad  a  trial  of  firing  at  a  floating  target, 
which  in  this  case  was  a  barrel  sent  adrift,  with  a  couple  of 
sixtj-eight  pound  shot  suspended  to  keep  it  steady,  and  an  old 
flag  stafl"  stuck  in  the  bung.  We  then  described  a  circle  of  a 
half  mile,  and  fired  while  in  motion  ;  the  shot  told  remarkably  as 
line  shots,  and  the  surface  of  the  water  sometimes  looked  like 
the  spouting  of  whales.  The  English  have  now  one  hundred 
and  thirty,  large  and  small,  of  this  class  of  steamers  or  gunboats. 
The  Vigilant  carries  ninety  men,  and  has  an  engine  of  two 
hundred  horse  power,  with  a  screw  twelve  feet  diameter ;  the 
boilers  and  machinery  are  below  water  mark  ;  she  draws  twelve 
feet  of  water,  and  is  admirably  calculated  for  destruction. 

Within  the  harbor  of  Malta,  and  encircled  by  the  strong  walls 
of  these  immense  and  world-wide  renowned  fortifications,  lay 
the  flag  ship  and  part  of  the  squadron  of  Admiral  Lyons. 
Having  once  made  a  quarantine  of  twenty-one  days  there, 
coming  from  Egypt,  which  quarantine  is  fortunately  abandoned 
now,  besides  spending  ten  days  in  sight  seeing,  nothing  stuck 
me  as  new. 


CXXXIII. 


Grand  Cairo,  Egypt,  April  10,  1858. 

I  REACHED  Malta  on  board  of  an  English  war  steamer,  in  time 
to  connect  with  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Company's  packet, 
with  the  India  overland  passengers.  An  agreeable  passage  of 
three  and  a  half  days  brought  us  to  Alexandria,  and  instead  of 
taking  canal  and  river  boats  as  in  former  times,  occupying  four 
days,  I  proceeded  by  rail  to  this  city  in  eight  hours.  The 
distance  is  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles,  and  the  road  is  to 
continue  to  Suez,  across  the  little  desert,  some  ninety  miles  more. 
There  only  remain  some  twenty  miles  to  complete  it,  when 
Alexandria  and  its  port  will  be  in  communication  with  the  Eed 
Sea.  The  Pasha  has  constructed  this  great  work  at  his  own 
expense,  and  must  ultimately  derive  a  large  revenue  from  it,  as 
the  tax  upon  each  passenger  crossing  is  ten  pounds  or  fifty 
dollars. 

This  being  my  third  visit  to  Egypt,  I  am  able  to  judge  of  the 
changes  that  have  taken  place,  particularly  since  the  introduction 


492  MOHAMMED   ALL 

of  the  railway.  In  18-12,  when  I  first  made  the  ascent  of  the 
Nile  to  Upper  Egypt,  we  met  only  four  passenger  boats ;  the 
past  winter  the  number  has  been  forty,  which  is  much  less  than 
usual,  owing  to  disturbed  monetary  relations  throughout  the 
world.  Then,  Alexandria  was  a  village,  surrounded  with  the 
ruins  of  the  former  city.  Now,  it  is  a  place  of  large  commerce, 
with  a  population  of  seventy  or  eighty  thousand,  and  instead  of 
camels  to  carry  one's  luggage,  and  donkeys  to  ride  up  a  misera- 
ble hotel,  one  finds  carriages  and  four-horse  omnibuses  around 
the  railway  station.  The  whistle  of  the  locomotive,  and  the  cry 
of  "  clear  the  track,"  is  calculated  to  wake  up  the  most  lethargic 
races.  When  I  passed  through  Egypt  in  1855,  en  route  from 
the  East  Indies,  I  was  struck  with  the  changes.  "We  descended 
the  Nile  in  a  steamer  from  Cairo,  which  was  a  great  improve- 
ment. 

Pompey's  Pillar  and  Cleopatra's  Needle  still  stand,  towering 
high,  as  solitary  spectators  of  the  progress  of  the  age. 

I  find  here  some  familiar  faces ;  the  Dragoman  who  accom- 
panied me  to  Upper  Egypt  and  crossed  the  desert  to  Palestine, 
meets  me  with  a  smile ;  Paul,  who  is  spoken  of  in  Stephens's 
work  on  Egypt,  I  find  again.  I  have  just  visited  the  Mausoleum 
of  ,the  great  man  Mohammed  Ali,  the  regenerator  of  Egypt, 
with  whom  I  once  passed  an  evening  with  accompaniment  of  the 
chilbouk  or  pipe,  sherbet  and  cofiee,  talking  over  the  affairs  of 
this  country.  He  was  of  humble  origin,  but  through  his 
military  prowess  and  energy  of  character  rose  to  the  throne, 
conquered  the  Bedouins  of  the  desert,  massacred  the  Mamelukes, 
dug  canals,  regulated  the  embankments  of  the  Nile  for  irrigation, 
forced  the  natives  into  the  army  and  into  useful  employments, 
introduced  the  growth  of  cotton,  built  a  fleet,  which  was 
destroyed  by  the  allied  forces,  erected  manufactories  and  palaces ; 
in  a  word,  he  was  a  tyrant,  but  a  benefactor  in  advancing 
civilization. 

He  succeeded  in  creating  a  Dynasty  for  his  family,  and  his 
remains  now  are  inclosed  within  the  walls  of  the  new  and 
gigantic  alabaster  mosque,  with  its  pointed  minarets,  standing 
upon  the  citadel  inclosure,  within  the  walls  of  which  the 
unfortunate  Mamelukes  were  shot,  one  of  whom  only  escaped 
by  jumping  his  horse  over  a  steep  precipice. 

I  find  here  some  of  my  couuti'ymen,  and  a  few  English,  who 


STREET  SIGHTS.  498 

are  returning  from  the  Nile  trip,  as  the  season  is  about  over  and 
the  water  low.  In  Jane  the  rise  commences.  Some  are  making 
excursions  to  Heliopolis  and  to  the  Pyramids,  others  visiting  the 
bazaars  and  Schrubra,  the  garden  of  the  Pasha,  which,  wnth  its 
brooks,  fountains,  fruit,  and  flowers,  is  well  worth  a  visit. 

The  great  vehicle  of  locomotion  for  the  multitude  is  the 
donkey,  which  threads  the  crowded  and  narrow  streets  at  a 
rapid  rate,  flogged  by  the  boy  running  at  his  heels  and  keeping 
up  the  cry  of  "  right,  left,  legs,  arms,"  in  Arabic  words.  The 
veiled  women  ride  crosswise  like  men.  Officers  in  gay  costumes 
go  b}^  on  richly  caparisoned  horses  ;  droves  of  camels  laden  with 
merchandise,  and  Arabs  with  hog  skins  on  their  backs,  filled 
with  water  for  sprinkling  to  keep  down  the  dust  in  this  warm 
climate.  The  smell  of  otto  of  roses  and  other  perfumery  keeps 
under  other  disagreeable  odors  as  you  ride  through  tlie  bazaars. 
Then  comes  the  cry  of  avant  couriers,  who  run  before  and 
behind  carriages,  staff  in  hand,  to  make  way.  The  Court  passes 
in  European  carriages  with  gilded  trappings,  and  outriders  in 
fancy-colored  Oriental  costumes,  the  women  of  the  Harem 
scrupulously  veiled,  only  their  black  round  the  eyes  being  seen. 
Then  comes  a  drove  of  goats  for  the  supplj-  of  milk.  Altogether 
it  is  a  mixture,  such  as  cannot  be  described,  of  all  races,  colors, 
variety  of  dress,  but  must  be  found  in  this  city  of  three  hundred 
and  fifty  thousand  inhabitants,  where,  particularly  as  the  kems- 
ing  winds  have  just  set  in,  custom  demands  that  every  person 
should  appear  and  snuff  tlie  air.  The  festival  continues  three 
days,  and  the  people  are  out  in  their  best  attire. 

Two  of  our  guests  have  just  started  for  Jerusalem,  via  the 
desert.  Their  caravan  consisted  of  twelve  camels,  a  dragoman 
and  servants,  with  camel  drivers,  &c.,  an  English  lord  and  his 
companion.  The  Arab  Scheik  taxed  him  five  pounds  or 
twenty  dollars  per  head  for  the  use  of  the  animals  alone.  I 
was  thankful  I  had  not  the  same  journey  to  repeat ;  for  to  be 
perched  up  sixteen  or  twenty  days  upon  the  back  of  a  drome- 
dary is  no  small  task.  Another  party  have  left  for  Memphis, 
also  to  visit  the  monster  Sphinx,  the  Pyramid  of  Cheops  and 
others,  the  establishment  for  hatching  chickens  by  heat,  &c.,  I 
enjoy  these  things  as  souvenirs,  having  on  a  former  occasion 
seen  and  mounted  the  great  Pyramid  at  Gizeh,  crept  into  the 
interior   chambers  and  breathed  its  dust  of  ag^es  and  its  close 


494  PAST  AND   PRESENT  TKAVEL. 

atmosphere.  Its  dimensions  are  seven  hundred  and  thirty-twc 
feet  square,  and  four  hundred  and  sixty  feet  high,  and  it  covers 
some  twelve  acres  of  ground.  There  are  many  smaller  ones, 
which  are  almost  equal  in  size.  Herodotus  says  that  one  hundred 
years  were  employed  in  constructing  the  two  largest.  Pliny  says 
seventy-eight  years,  and  the  number  of  men  three  hundred  and 
sixty  thousand.  The  facilities  for  travel  in  Upper  Egypt  are 
greatly  increased  since  my  first  visit ;  then  we  had  to  procure  a 
boat  and  dragoman  by  the  month  ;  every  article  of  supply,  with 
cooking  utensils,  had  to  be  purchased,  and  a  suitable  cook 
selected.  The  Reis  or  captain  and  his  crew  of  twelve  men  were 
paid  by  the  month  ;  every  delay  was  to  them  a  profit.  Now  a 
dragoman  takes  upon  himself  the  entire  outfit  and  supplies, 
relieving  the  party  from  all  responsibility  for  a  stipulated  sum, 
averaging  from  five  to  eight  dollars  a  day  per  head,  according 
to  the  numbers.  The  charges  on  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental 
steamers  are  about  sixteen  dollars  per  day.  The  passengers  are 
abundantly  supplied,  as  you  will  see ;  coffee  and  tea  early  in  the 
morning,  soda  water  if  wanted,  breakfast  at  nine,  lunch  at 
twelve,  with  ale  or  porter,  dinner  at  four,  with  four  kinds  of 
wine,  tea  at  seven,  grog  or  hot  drinks  at"  nine  P.M.  The  servants 
form  themselves  into  a  band  and  play  from  eleven  to  twelve  M., 
and  from  eight  to  nine  in  the  evening,  for  which  passengers 
contribute.  The  consumption  of  provisions  on  board  this  line 
is  excessive.  The  French  and  Austrian  steamers  have  two 
substantial  meals  only,  and  charge  considerably  less. 

There  is  a  general  complaint  throughoiit  the  East  of  the 
increased  hotel  charges  and  the  expenses  of  life  since  the 
Crimean  war.  I  intend  returning  to  Alexandria,  and  embark 
via  Jaffa  for  Beyrout.  I  shall  probably  visit  Damascus,  the 
Cedars  of  Lebanon,  and  the  ruins  of  Balbeck  from  the  latter  place. 
When  I  was  in  Palestine  before,  the  Maronites  and  Druses 
were  at  war,  which  prevented  travelling  in  the  mountains.  I 
now  hope  to  avail  myself  of  the  present  opportunitj^ 


EN   ROUTE.  495 


CXXXIV. 


Constantinople,  May  1,  1858. 

I  FIND  myself  at  a  remote  point  from  Grand  Cairo,  having 
extended  my  route  in  order  to  visit  the  Crimea  and  other  parts 
of  the  Black  sea. 

On  our  arrival  at  Jaffa  we  found  some  thousands  of  pilgrims 
waiting  opportunities  to  embark  for  their  homes.  Immense 
numbers  had  been  at  Jerusalem,  but  as  I  had  passed  the  Passion 
Week  once  in  the  Holy  City,  had  climbed  the  Mount  of  Olives, 
wandered  through  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  bathed  my  eyes 
in  the  Pool  of  Siloam,  refreshed  myself  at  the  Brook  of  Kedron, 
swum  in  the  Jordan  and  reposed  at  Bethlehem,  I  was  unwilling 
to  lose  first  impressions  by  a  revisit.  At  that  period,  after  a 
voyage  across  the  desert  of  sixteen  days  upon  camelback,  the 
Land  of  the  Philistines  and  the  Gardens  of  Sharon  were  quite 
refreshing,  but  now  steam  has  revolutionized  travel,  and  distance 
is  quite  annihilated.  There  were  several  steamers  in  the  dan- 
gerous roadstead  taking  away  the  pilgrims.  One  of  the  number 
had  been  wrecked  and  stranded  in  a  late  gale,  and  twenty-nine 
of  her  passengers  and  crew  lost.  We  took  away  some  three 
hundred,  mostly  deck  passengers,  consisting  of  Greeks,  Copts, 
Armenians,  and  Latins,  from  all  the  countries  of  the  Levant.  Such 
a  beggarly  looking  party  of  all  races  and  costumes  it  would  be 
difficult  to  scrape  together.  They  were  penned  up  like  cattle 
on  the  deck,  men,  women,  and  even  children  ;  and  you  may 
imagine  what  effect  a  heavy  sea  produced  upon  the  party. 

We  coasted  along  the  shore  of  ancient  Tyre  arid  Sidon  with 
Mount  Carmel  in  full  view,  and  debarked  at  Beyroot,  a  pretty 
town  with  picturesque  environs,  backed  by  the  mountains  of 
Lebanon,  and  occupied  by  the  Druses  and  Maronites. 

After  a  sojourn  of  a  few  days  I  took  passage  for  the  island  of 
Cyprus,  interesting  for  its  historical  reminiscences  and  famous  for 
its  sweet  wine ;  then  proceeded  to  the  island  of  Rhodes.  The 
old  city  is  in  a  dilapidated  condition.  Earthquakes  have  made 
sad  havoc  from  time  to  time,  one  of  which  is  said  to  have 
destroyed  the  great  Colossus.  The  old  streets  of  the  Knights 
of  St.  John,  with  their  armorial  insignia  upon  the  fronts  of  the 
houses,  are  well  preserved. 


496  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Smyrna  I  found  improved.  The  rebuilding  of  good,  sub- 
stantial stone  bouses  upon  the  sites  of  the  burnt  districts,  where 
miserable,  rickety  wooden  buildings  stood,  has  greatly  changed 
the  appearance  of  this  large  commercial  city.  The  fruit  trade 
brings  vessels  of  all  nations  into  its  capacious  bay.  A  view  from 
Mount  Pagos,  where  are  the  remains  of  an  old  Genoese  fort, 
embraces  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  panoramas. 

Having  had  three  passages  by  the  Lloyd  Austrian  steamers,  I 
there  took  the  French  Messagerie,  imperial  packet,  via  the 
Dardanelles  and  Sea  of  Marmora,  touching  at  Gallipoli  and  other 
points,  for  Constantinople. 

My  souvenirs  of  this  renowned  capital  of  the  Sultan  are  now 
revived.  The  visit  to  the  Seraglio  and  palaces,  the  church  of  St. 
Sophia,  the  mosques  of  Sultan  Mahmoud  and  others,  and  the 
tombs  of  the  distinguished  monarchs,  is  made  by  means  of  a 
firman.  The  visits  to  the  bazaars,  excursions  on  the  Bos- 
phorus,  and  to  Scutari  on  the  Asiatic  shore,  and  the  sweet  waters 
of  Europe  and  Asia,  are  delightful  beyond  description.  And 
as  I  gazed  from  my  windows  from  the  lofty  Frank  quarters  of 
Pera  down  upon  the  Golden  Horn,  separating  old  Stamboul 
from  Galata;  the  Bosphorus,  dividing  the  two  continents;  the 
lofty  minarets  of  the  white  mosques ;  the  deep  evergreen 
cypress  of  the  cemeteries,  in  contrast  with  the  blooming  trees 
of  the  Seraglio  Point  gardens  ;  the  forest  of  masts  of  all  nations  ; 
the  numerous  war  and  commercial  steamers,  I  am  led  to  exclaim, 
"  This  is  certainly  the  most  magnificent  view  of  the  kind  which 
the  eye  can  behold." 

Rio  Janeiro  for  its  majestic  scenery  can  only  surpass  it.  The 
Bay  of  Naples  has  its  peculiar  beauties.  The  harbor  of  New 
York  we  all  admit  is  lovely.  Stockholm,  situated  upon  its 
seven  islands,  is  entitled  to  consideration.  San  Francisco  can 
boast  of  a  noble  sheet  of  water,  as  well  as  many  other  countries, 
but  the  palm  must  be  awarded  to  the  position  of  the  Turk. 

The  allied  armies  have  fought,  bled,  and  expended  great 
treasure,  but  one  discovers  few  changes  for  the  better.  The 
improvements  are  in  the  European  quarter  chiefly.  The  sick 
man  may  linger  along  for  an  indefinite  period,  but  it  is  doubtful 
if  he  can  be  resuscitated. 

We  are  in  the  midst  of  the  Ramadan,  or  fast  of  the  Mussulmans. 
The  faithful  partake  of  neither  meat  nor  drink  from  sunrise  to 


FEELING   OF   THE   TURKS.  497 

sunset,  during  forty  days,  and  consequently  cannot  be  very  good- 
humored.  Joyous  voices  may  be  heard  at  the  evening  meal  if 
one  dares  thread  the  narrow,  ill  paved  streets,  lantern  in  hand, 
and  prepared  to  resist  the  multitudes  of  half  starved  dogs 
without  masters,  who  are  the  public  scavengers,  and  breed,  live, 
and  die  in  the  streets. 

The  minarets  are  now  illuminated,  and  present  a  pretty 
appearance  on  a  dark  night.  During  the  war  the  mosques  were 
easily  entered,  now  greater  rigor  is  exercised,  and  the  devout 
follower  of  Mahomet  who  makes  his  five  ablutions  daily,  wash- 
ing his  hands,  face,  and  feet,  at  the  fountains  in  front  of  the 
mosques,  and  fasts  from  morn  till  night,  cannot  look  with  favor 
upon  the  Christians  eating  and  drinking,  and  treading  the  sacred 
precincts  of  his  Holy  Temple,  and  defiling  it  with  their 
unwashed  feet. 

They  look  with  surprise  and  astonishment  at  the  wars  of  the 
sects  in  Jerusalem,  at  the  threshold  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre,  and  the  Turkish  soldiery  preserving  order  at  the 
point  of  the  bayonet.  Fortunately  for  the  reputation  of  Chris- 
tianity the  late  ceremonies  of  the  Holy  Week  passed  off  without 
scandal  in  the  sacred  city. 

The  Greeks,,  notwithstanding  the  efforts  of  consuls  to  suppress 
rejoicings  after  Lent  is  over,  have  had  their  fireworks, 
discharges  of  cannon,  &c.,  with  loss  of  limbs,  much  to  the 
annoyance  of  the  Turks.  The  Latins  have  their  rejoicings,  and 
illuminate  as  in  Rome,  and  the  faithful  will  have  feastings  and  a 
jubilee  when  the  season  of  Ramadan  comes  around,  and  the 
penalties  of  the  Koran  are  complied  with. 

We  have  here  three  Sabbaths  :  on  Friday  the  Turkish  bazaars 
are  closed  ;  on  Saturday  the  Jews  keep  their  Sabbath ;  and  Sunday 
all  the  Christian  races  keep  theirs,  at  least  a  part  of  the  day. 
Those  who  wish  to  make  purchases  should  select  the  early  part 
of  the  week. 

Steam  has  here  made  its  innovation.  We  formerly  had  only 
the  small  egg-shell  caique  for  the  waters  about  the  metropolis  ; 
now  steamers  for  ferries  and  excursions  are  employed,  and 
packed  full.  A  bridge  of  boats  connects  old  Stamboul  with 
Galata,  across  the  Golden  Horn.  Many  more  carriages  are 
employed,  richly  gilded  with  gold.  The  ladies  of  the  harem 
are  seen  more  frequently  riding  out ;  and  the  white  gauze  veils, 

32 


498  ODESSA. 

disclosing  only  the  eyes  and  nose,  seem  to  be  lighter  in  texture 
than  formerly,  showing  more  of  the  beautiful  features  of  the 
Georgian  and  Circassian  beauties. 

The  currency  of  the  country  is  unsettled ;  little  but  paper  and 
copper  is  seen ;  consequently  speculation  has  increased,  and  the 
people  complain  of  increased  charges  making  Constantinople 
one  of  the  most  expensive  cities  in  Europe. 


cxxxv. 


Sebastopol,  May  12,  1858. 

The  voyage  from  Constantinople  up  the  Bosphorus  and  to 
the  head  of  the  Black  Sea,  was  made  in  forty  hours,  on  board 
of  the  new  steamer  Grand  Duke  Constantine.  This  was  her 
first  trip,  and  with  fair  weather,  a  comfortable  one.  The 
Russian  Company,  through  a  guarantee  of  five  per  cent,  interest 
for  a  term  of  years,  from  the  government,  have  ordered  in  all 
fifty  steamers,  to  compete  with  the  Austrians  and  French  in  the 
navigation  of  the  Mediterranean  and  Black  Seas ;  and  it  is 
thought  by  the  travelling  public  that  competition  will  reduce 
the  extravagant  charges  on  these  lines,  which  is  detrimental  to 
commerce. 

The  great  grain  city  of  Odessa  suffered  but  little  during  the 
war  from  the  allies.  It  lies  somewhat  elevated  from  the  harbor, 
with  private  houses,  rather  scattered,  covering  great  distances,  and 
large  public  and  private  buildings  of  cut  sandstone ;  its  unpaved 
streets,  and  the  immense  number  of  droskeys,  grain  carts,  and 
other  vehicles,  with  a  light  clay  soil,  make  it  one  of  the  dustiest 
cities  I  ever  was  in.  The  birthday  of  the  Empress  was  cele- 
brated in  the  cathedral,  and  as  a  holiday,  and  in  the  evening 
there  was  an  illumination  upon  the  Boulevard,  an  elevated 
drive  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  harbor ;  and  the  turn-out 
of  fine  horses,  and  carriages  filled  with  ladies  in  rich  robes, 
presented  a  scene  seldom  equalled, 

A  Russian  passport  had  to  be  procured  for  the  Crimea.  For 
the  information  of  all  those  who  design  visiting  Russia,  I  would 
say,  bring  nothing  printed,  as  all  books,  maps,  &c.,  are  seized  at 
the  custom-house  and  sent  to  the  censor  office.  On  leaving,  one 
must  advertise  three  times  in  the  paper  his  intention  of  quitting 


SYMPHEROPOL.  499 

the  empire,  in  order  to  show  that  he  has  contracted  no  debts,  or 
committed  no  offences ;  then  a  passport  will  be  granted  by  the 
police.  When  I  travelled  through  Finland  and  the  north  of 
Eussia,  I  was  provided  with  documents  as  bearer  of  despatches, 
thereby  avoiding  all  annoyance  of  examination  of  luggage,  and 
met  with  much  civility. 

I  embarked  for  Eupatoria  at  twelve  A.M.,  and  was  landed  the 
following  day  ;  it  is  the  first  point  of  debarkation  of  the  united 
squadron.  The  town  is  partially  destroyed,  and  is  a  small 
miserable  place.  The  batteries  of  the  allies  are  still  recognizable 
near  Wind  Mill  Point ;  these  and  the  Jewish  synagogue,  of 
much  beauty  for  this  country,  are  all  of  interest  to  be  seen.  I 
posted  to  Sympheropol,  the  capital  town  of  the  Crimea,  a 
distance  of  seventy-two  wersts,  or  fifty-four  miles,  passing  salt 
lakes,  which  are  productive,  and  worked  largely  for  expor- 
tation ;  a  long  distance  of  rolling  prairie  country,  with  little 
timber ;  occasional  small  streams,  with  valleys  and  shade  or  fruit 
trees,  thinly  settled,  bearing  some  analogy  to  parts  of  our 
western  country.  The  city  has  fourteen  thousand  population, 
and  is  rather  pleasantly  situated.  The  hotels  are  bad  through- 
out the  land,  and  war  prices  are  still  maintained.  The  Greek 
churches  are  the  prominent  monuments,  with  a  great  profusion 
of  ornaments,  outstripping  the  Latin  Catholics  in  decoration. 
From  Sympheropol  I  took  a  two  horse  fourgen.  a  sort  of  covered 
baggage  wagon,  there  being  no  post  route  to  Bourlouk,  or  the 
battle  field  of  Alma,  in  company  with  a  young  Russian  officer 
to  whom  I  was  recommended,  and  who  kindly  offered  to  accom- 
pany me.  He  had  received  two  orders  for  his  zeal  and  bravery 
in  the  battles  and  eleven  months'  occupation  of  Sebastopol, 
during  the  siege,  and  was  a  valuable  guide  and  companion. 
His  sister  owned  the  land  and  village  which  stands  near  the  scene 
of  combat.  The  Russians  burnt  the  huts  of  the  Tartar  peasants, 
the  mansion  house,  and  stacks  of  grain,  to  prevent  their  falling 
into  the  hands  of  the  enemy.  We  made  the  thirty  wersts,  and 
arrived  at  nightfall.  After  the  national  dish  of  the  Tabaif,  a 
sort  of  vermicelli  paste,  baked,  with  honey  and  tea,  which  can  be 
procured  all  over  Russia,  beds  were  made  upon  the  divan  in  the 
new  stone  cottage,  and  to  my  surprise  and  delight  I  slept  upon 
the  folds  of  the  stars  and  stripes  of  an  American  flag,  preserved 
from  the  wreck  of  a  vessel  on  the  coast. 


500  FIELD   OF  THE  ALMA. 

In  the  morning,  our  accomplished  hostess,  who  spoke  French 
like  a  native,  mounted  her  horse,  and  we  rode  over  most  parts 
of  her  possessions,  some  seven  wersts  square,  comprising  the 
battle  grounds,  and  the  different  heights  and  valleys  occupied  by 
the  Russian,  French,  and  English  troops,  crossing  the  Alma  at 
different  points,  visiting  the  cemeteries  of  thirteen  thousand  slain 
of  both  armies,  and  reading  the  epitaphs  on  such  few  tombs  as 
had  been  erected. 

The  route  of  the  invading  forces  can  yet  well  be  traced,  by 
the  quantities  of  woollen  and  cotton  cloth  fragments,  leathern 
straps,  cannon  balls,  and  debris  of  all  kinds.  It  was  a  melan- 
choly sight,  and  made  my  companion  sad  when  he  recollected 
many  of  his  companions  who  fell  upon  the  field. 

The  name  of  Alma  is  taken  from  the  Tartar  for  apple,  of 
which  large  orchards  existed  in  the  valley,  and  along  the  water 
course.  The  country  was  desolated  by  the  war,  and  the  fruit- 
trees  and  crops  were  destroyed  ;  but  the  people  are  now  return- 
ing and  building  up  their  little  cabins,  and  commencing  the  cul- 
tivation of  grain  and  the  vine,  of  which  they  give  one-tenth  to 
the  land  proprietor.  The  predominant  race  are  Tartars,  and 
they  speak  corrupt  Turkish ;  they  are  Mussulmans,  or  of  the 
Mohammedan  religion,  and  are  an  indolent  people,  and  without 
enterprise. 

I  here  left  my  companion,  and  had  a  lonely  ride  of  some 
twenty  wersts  over  a  high  rolling  prairie,  some  mountainous 
country,  and  deep  valleys,  which  brought  me  to  Batschi  Seray, 
the  former  residence  of  Tartar  royalty,  and  could  scarcely  help 
believing  I  was  passing  the  long  streets  of  a  Turkish  town  ;  their 
costumes,  habits,  bazaars,  carts,  and  market  stands,  all  indicating 
the  same.  I  visited  the  old  palace,  with  its  inclosures,  mosques, 
minarets,  cemetery,  and  tombs  of  the  Tartar  kings,  some  twenty- 
four  in  number,  before  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  Russia.  The 
style  of  architecture,  the  fountains,  gardens,  and  chambers  of  the 
harem,  are  strictly  Turkish. 

Some  four  wersts  hence,  on  the  top  of  a  mountain,  is  a  most 
curious  old  Jewish  walled  and  fortified  town,  called  Tschufout 
Kale,  which  formerly  contained  one  thousand  or  more  families, 
but  is  now  reduced  to  thirty.  It  reminds  one  of  Pompeii,  or 
the  city  of  the  dead,  and  is  fast  tumbling  into  ruins.  They  date 
back  their  emigration  from  Jerusalem  in  the  early  centuries,  and 


SEBASTOPOL.  501 

while  persecution  reigned  were  in  their  fortresses,  but  are  now 
scattered  to  the  four  winds.  The  Eabbi  and  his  companions 
have  still  the  old  synagogue,  and  are  well  supported  by  the 
absentees.  Not  far  distant  is  a  fraternity  of  monks,  who  have 
the  steep  mountain  side  walled  amphitheatre-like,  and  a  monas- 
tery and  chapel  built  in  the  grottoes  of  the  rock,  with  the  altars 
and  interior  decorated  with  images  in  gold  and  silver.  On  the 
outside  fagade,  where  the  precipice  projects,  are  seen  the  colossal 
figures  of  Christ,  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  Apostles,  in  figures  of 
gold,  which  are  visible  for  a  mile,  and  are  attractive  as  a  pilgrimage. 
The  lamps  and  candles  are  kept  constantly  burning,  as  at  Beth- 
lehem. 

After  making  these  excursions,  I  proceeded  to  Sebastopol. 
Through  unavoidable  delay,  I  arrived  at  nine  P.M.  of  a  dark 
night,  upon  the  shores  of  the  north  bay ;  there  were  no  accom- 
modations for  travellers,  an  unusual  heavy  sea  was  on,  and  the 
boatmen  were  unwilling  to  cross  without  extortion  ;  I  succeeded, 
however,  in  getting  across  safely  with  my  Tartar  guide,  and 
found  among  the  ruins  of  the  town  one  of  the  two  little  inns 
erected  since  the  destruction  of  the  city.  Such  a  scene  of  devas- 
tation as  I  found,  when  awakening  next  morning,  I  had  not  pic- 
tured to  myself  Out  of  one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants, 
comprising  soldiers  and  marines,  only  eleven  thousand  remain, 
and  one  can  only  judge  by  the  light  of  lamps  and  fires,  where 
they  live  at  night;  some  in  barracks,  cellars,  and  corners  of 
buildings  where  the  walls  are  standing,  rudely  covered  over. 
The  temporary  frail  huts  thrown  up,  remind  one  of  Texas  in  its 
infancy,  or  the  early  frame  houses  of  California  and  Oregon. 
The  government  has  erected  a  Greek  Church,  buildings  for  ser- 
vants of  the  crown  to  reside  in,  and  individuals  have  put  up 
some  good  stores  for  places  of  business  ;  but  dwellings  are  scarce, 
and  rents  dear. 

It  is  painful  to  gaze  upon  the  beautiful  but  ruined  walls  of 
palaces,  libraries,  club  rooms,  churches,  hotels,  and  private  resi- 
dences, either  destroyed  by  the  shot  and  bombs  of  the  enemy,  or 
exploded  by  the  Russians.  You  are  so  familiar  with  the  locali- 
ties, as  shown  by  charts  during  the  progress  of  the  war,  that  I 
shall  not  attempt  a  description,  but  merely  state  that  my  time 
has  been  occupied  in  strolling  over  the  devastated  city,  visiting 
the  ruined  docks,  aqueducts,  and  hospital  sites,  mounting  the 


502  INKERMAN. 

famous  Malakoff  and  Redan  batteries,  riding  out  to  tlie  different 
camp  grounds  of  the  English,  French,  Sardinian,  Russian,  and 
Turkish  troops,  visiting  portions  of  the  cemeteries,  of  which 
there  are  said  to  be  three  hundred  and  fifty  in  number,  and  a 
half  million  of  men  mouldering  in  the  dust.  Cannon  balls, 
bombs,  and  bullets  are  still  strewn  in  all  directions.  Teamsters 
are  employed  in  gathering  and  drawing  them  to  the  magazines. 
Some  curious  persons  have  lost  their  lives  by  picking  up  and 
throwing  down  infernal  projectiles,  which  exploded. 

The  camps  look  like  decayed  villages  of  rough  stone  huts ; 
some  of  the  walls  of  the  English  are  whitewashed,  and  the  door- 
ways paved  with  coarse  stone,  carrying  out  ideas  of  comfort. 
A  little  frame  building  is  still  standing  and  preserved  in  a  valley, 
near  a  spring  of  water,  on  our  way  to  Inkerman,  some  twelve 
wersts  from  town,  where  we  dismounted  and  refreshed  ourselves. 
It  was  the  pavilion  of  Lord  Raglan.  On  the  sumrnit  near  at 
hand  is  a  monument  to  the  united  forces  engaged  in  the  battle  ; 
it  was  raised  by  the  British  army.  One  of  the  English  burial 
grounds  is  well  inclosed,  and  has  many  tombstones.  The 
descent  to  the  plain,  and  scene  of  strife  at  Inkerman,  through 
which  the  Russians  advanced,  is  a  deep  gorge,  with  high  pali- 
sades of  white  sandstone,  quarried  out  of  the  building  material 
of  Sebastopol. 

Our  countrymen  are  succeeding  well  in  destroying  and  fishing 
up  the  fragments  of  the  Russian  wrecked  vessels  which  obstructed 
the  harbor.  I  have  just  had  the  satisfaction  of  being  on  board 
one  of  the  four  flats,  or  caissons,  of  twenty-five  horse  power  engine 
each,  and  assisting  at  the  first  success  in  raising  a  twenty  gun 
schooner.  There  are  twenty-four  sunk,  large  and  small.  It  is 
curious  to  see  the  divers  go  down,  with  their  india-rubber  suits 
and  helmets,  glass  eyes,  and  a  keg  of  powder  under  the  arm  for 
explosion ;  also  the  fishing  up  of  copper,  iron  bolts,  portions  of 
the  wreck,  &c. 


CXXXVI. 


Yalta,  CRisrEA,  May  20,  1858. 
A  FEW  miles  down  the  coast  from  Sebastopol,  are  to  be  seen 
the  remains  of  the  ancient  city  of  Chersones,  and  the  little  bay 


BALAKLAVA.  503 

and  port  upon  which  it  was  situated.  It  is  most  interesting  to 
the  Russians,  as  being  the  spot  where  the  first  Bishop  Vladimir 
was  converted  to  Christianity  from  Paganism,  which  was  the 
means  of  establishing  the  Greek  Church,  the  prevailing  religion 
in  Russia. 

A  chapel  is  now  found  upon  the  spot,  where  resides  a  venera- 
ble priest,  with  his  colleagues.  A  new  and  large  church  is  to  be 
erected  upon  the  site  of  the  ancient  temple.  During  the  war,  the 
French,  in  cutting  entrenchments,  made  discoveries  of  some  valu- 
able relics  of  marble  and  sculpture,  which  are  now  visible. 
Under  the  Tartar  dynasty  the  old  city  was  deserted,  and  went 
to  decay. 

On  my  way  to  Balaklava  I  made  a  detour  to  look  at  the 
Kamisch  camp  grounds,  and  to  visit  one  of  the  wildest  and  most 
romantically  situated  monasteries  to  be  found.  It  is  called  St. 
George,  and  with  its  church,  convent,  out-buildings,  and  hang- 
ing fruit  gardens,  on  the  south  side  of  the  craggy  cliffs,  is  well 
calculated  to  attract  attention,  and  was  known  and  respected  by 
the  army  of  invasion. 

Balaklava  is  now  a  miserable  village,  but  when  its  little  basin 
was  occupied  by  the  English  and  French  vessels  it  must  have 
produced  a  lively  effect.  The  streets  and  roads  approaching  it 
are  well  paved  as  left  by  the  troops.  The  track  of  the  railroad 
is  still  discernible.  The  black  coal  depositories  show  where  the 
iron  horse  was  stalled.  The  heaps  of  broken  bottles  show  the 
consumption  of  the  troops,  and  reminded  me  of  the  Ranches  on 
the  Isthmus  of  Panama  after  the  passage  of  an  arm}'-  of  gold 
diggers.  The  high  rocks  at  the  narrow  entrance  bear  the  white 
letters  painted  by  the  English — "  Powell  Point,"  "  Castle  Bay," 
"Cossack  Point,"  &c. 

We  have  had  blustering  winds  and  an  unusually  boisterous 
sea,  so  say  the  residents,  giving  an  opportunity  of  judging  of  the 
fierce  waves  of  the  Black  Sea  along  the  iron  bound  coast,  which 
shipwrecked  so  many  of  the  vessels  of  the  combined  squadron. 

I  here  left  my  horses  and  droski,  and  took  the  post,  the  usual 
mode  of  quick  travel  in  Russia.  I  had  taken  out  a  Padorozna 
from  the  authorities  for  horses  from  Balaklava  to  Alushta  and 
then  to  this  place,  in  order  to  take  the  steamer  for  Theodosie 
and  Kertch,  upon  the  straits  of  Azof  In  this  manner  I  can 
visit  the  whole  length  of  the  south  coast  of  the  Crimea  of  any 


604:  KUSSIAN   POST  HOUSES. 

interest.  The  distance  to  the  place  named  is  one  hundred  and 
fifty-two  wersts,  of  three-fourths  of  a  mile  each,  for  which  one 
pays  six  kopecks  per  werst ;  the  greasing  of  the  wheels  at  each 
post  station  is  twelve  kopecks,  and  a  gratuity  to  the  driver  in 
addition.  Your  vehicle  is  changed  at  every  station.  It  is  a  rude 
wagon,  without  springs,  built  in  the  form  of  a  scow  boat  cut  off 
at  both  ends,  and  about  eight  feet  long,  with  low  wheels.  The 
seat  is  a  net  of  ropes  from  the  hind  stakes,  with  quantities  of  hay 
or  straw.  The  same  for  the  driver  in  front.  Two  bony  nags 
are  attached,  and  you  are  now  at  his  mercy.  The  horses  are 
kept  on  the  run,  the  extreme  distances  in  Russia  making  it  neces- 
sary, but  woe  to  the  traveller  who  is  not  accustomed  to  it.  It  is 
wild  and  furious  travelling. 

The  post  houses  are  furnished  by  the  crown,  and  are  known 
by  the  high,  square,  box-like  posts  of  white  and  black  colors, 
with  distances  marked  thereon ;  for  instance,  on  the  main  line,  to 
St.  Petersburgh  two  thousand  two  hundred  wersts,  and  in  like 
manner  on  the  side  roads.  A  sitting  room  is  furnished  with  a 
sofa,  chair,  and  table,  and  in  case  of  bad  weather,  or  no  inn,  one 
is  under  shelter,  and  sometimes  something  may  be  found  to  eat. 

The  Russian  nobility  travel  in  their  own  carriages,  and  carry 
their  tea  machines  for  preparing  tea,  heavy  fur  cloaks  for  sleeping, 
&c.  The  best  and  largest  hotel  in  Odessa,  for  example,  gives 
you  a  plainly  furnished  room,  with  an  ofen  for  heating  purposes, 
if  required,  and  a  bed  without  linen,  for  from  six  to  ten  francs, 
say  from  one  dollar  and  twenty  cents  to  two  dollars,  per  day. 
Bed  covering,  towels,  and  lights  are  charged  extra.  You  take 
your  meals  in  your  own  room,  or  at  the  restaurant,  for  which 
you  pay  d  la  carte,  at  the  time,  or  it  is  put  in  your  bill.  You 
will  thus  perceive  a  wide  difference  from  our  American  plan. 

At  my  first  station  from  Balaklava,  I  found  the  Tartar  village 
of  Bidar,  quite  deserted  during  the  war.  The  occupants  of  this 
beautiful  valley,  filled  with  pear,  apricot,  and  other  trees,  had 
left  for  Constantinople,  and  their  return  is  not  permitted.  In 
the  hands  of  an  industrious  people,  it  would  be  very  valuable. 

My  next  relay  crossed  the  mountain  pass,  where  the  sea, 
valleys,  deep  precipices,  and  vineyards  presented  themselves 
instantly  on  the  passage  of  a  tunnel,  very  like  a  mountain  road 
from  Genoa  to  Spezzia,  celebrated  for  its  beauty. 

The  zigzag  road,  with  short  curves,  was  driven  over  more 


ALUPKA.  505 

rapidly  than  within  my  experience,  the  horses  on  full  trot,  or 
galloping  down  the  mountain.  I  could  hold  my  seat  with  diffi- 
culty, but  said  nothing.  I  timed  my  watch  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  and  found  we  had  made  fifteen  wersts  in  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour.  The  Russian  youth  turned  towards  me  for  a 
look  of  approbation,  pocketed  his  Navodki,  and  was  soon  off 
for  Alupka,  the  palace  of  prince  Woranzow,  the  most  magnifi- 
cent private  affair,-  perhaps,  in  Europe.  The  grounds,  gardens, 
and  vineyards  occupy  miles,  beautifully  situated  on  the  Black 
Sea,  sheltered  from  the  cold  by  a  southern  exposure.  The 
palace,  or  castle,  is  of  Grothic  architecture,  and  was  finished  in 
1852  by  an  English  architect.  It  has  been  building  many  years, 
and  is  of  Crimean  granite.  Six  noble  lions,  of  Carrara  marble, 
in  Canova  style,  standing,  crouching,  and  sleeping,  guard  the 
staircase  on  the  water  side.  Pavilions,  a  Greek  church,  a 
mosque,  flowers,  fruit  trees,  and  miles  of  drives,  comprise  the 
beauties.  Such  an  outlay  as  three  millions  of  roubles  in  this 
remote  country,  can  only  be  expected  of  a  Russian  noble  with 
two  hundred  thousand  serfs,  or  more,  besides  immense  wealth 
differently  invested.  He  lived  to  accomplish  this  work,  and 
died,  leaving  an  only  son,  who  resides  in  Paris. 

My  next  point  was  Orianda,  the  new  palace  and  grounds  of 
the  ex-empress  of  Russia,  who  has  never  seen  it,  but  is  expected 
this  summer.  The  palace  cost  only  half  a  million  of  roubles,  or 
four  hundred  thousand  dollars.  It  is  neat,  substantial,  well 
arranged,  and  is  furnished  richly,  but  in  good  taste.  Several  of 
the  rooms  and  fountains  are  after  the  Pompeian  style. 

This  is  the  resort  of  Russian  nobility  for  the  autumn  months, 
during  the  grape  season.  Many  have  estates  and  splendid  resi- 
dences, but  are  seldom  here.  I  have  chosen  the  best  season  for 
visiting  this  region. 

The  little  village  from  which  I  write  is  in  the  midst  of  lovely 
gardens,  the  trees  now  in  full  bloom.  The  grape  vines  are 
putting  forth  their  leaves.  The  mountain  side  is  dotted  with 
occasional  Tartar  villages  of  rude  cottages,  the  peaks  in  the  dis- 
tance contrasting  with  the  green  sea,  whose  waves  are  breaking 
upon  the  gravelly  beach,  with  no  sign  of  shells.  The  water  is 
saltish,  without  smell  from  sea  weed. 

The  only  decent  hotel  I  have  yet  found  in  the  Crimea,  is  the 
little  one  here  upon  the  seaside,  kept  by  a  Frenchman  and  his 


506  A  FUNERAL. 

English  wife,  both  of  whom  were  servants  in  a  Eussian  noble 
family.  It  is  a  luxury,  indeed,  with  its  neatness  and  comfort; 
and  meals  are  served  up  in  one's  one  room,  according  to  Euro- 
pean taste.  I  am  the  only  guest  at  present.  The  lulling  sound 
of  the  waves  induces  repose,  which  I  much  needed,  and  I  am 
quite  unwilling  to  leave  the  spot. 

The  only  person  in  the  town  who  speaks  English,  except  the 
landlady,  is  her  little  boy,  who  converses  also  in  French  with 
his  father,  and  Russian  besides.  I  find  the  German  more  useful 
than  the  French  for  the  traveller  in  this  region  who  does  not 
know  Turkish  or  Eussian,  as  there  are  several  colonies  of  Ger- 
mans. 

This  country  being  new  and  sparsely  settled,  money  has  less 
value,  and  the  luxuries  of  life  are  difficult  to  obtain  without 
great  expenditure,  which  will  prevent  visitors  or  permanent 
residents  from  coming  here. 

The  valleys  abound  with  pasturage,  and  cattle  may  be  raised 
in  quantities ;  but  the  Tartar  race  is  lethargic,  and  works  only 
when  necessity  compels.  They  tell  me  fresh  butter  cannot  be 
had  at  even  a  rouble,  or  eighty  cents,  per  pound.  Their  wants 
are  few,  and  the  pipe  is  their  only  solace. 

This  being  the  fast  of  forty  days  my  Fourgon  driver,  to  whom 
I  offered  refreshments,  refused,  but  watched  the  waning  sun, 
procured  a  bottle  of  boza,  a  sort  of  acid  drink  made  from  flour, 
and  bought  a  wheaten  cake,  and  the  moment  the  last  rays  disap- 
peared the  poor  fellow  swallowed  his  morsel,  and  drained  his 
draught  with  a  good  relish.  If  the  land  could  be  relieved  from 
this  race  by  sending  them  to  Turkey,  and  their  places  occupied 
by  German  colonists,  it  might  be  made  a  flourishing  country. 

I  attended  yesterday  a  village  interment.  The  corpse  of  the 
defunct  was  in  an  uncovered  coflin,  draped  with  crimson  plush, 
and  supported  by  bearers  by  means  of  cords  two  or  three  feet 
from  the  ground.  After  the  ceremonies  in  the  pretty  little 
Eussian  chapel  on  the  top  of  a  hill,  with  its  stained  glass 
windows,  tiny  turrets  and  spire,  surrounded  by  flowers  and 
plants,  the  body  of  the  man,  preceded  by  the  noble-looking  Greek 
priests  in  full  robes,  with  long  flowing  hair  and  beard,  crucifix  in 
hand,  chanting  a  funeral  hymn,  and  friends  carrying  burning 
candles,  was  borne  to  the  neat  cemetery,  where  further  cere- 
monies were  performed.     When  the  crimson  lid,  with  the  white 


TUMULI.  507 

figures  of  the  cross  upon  it,  was  nailed  on  and  lowered  in  the 
grave,  the  despair  of  the  women,  as  -they  were  called  upon  to 
throw  stones  and  earth  upon  it,  was  frightful,  and  brought  to 
mind  that  command  of  scripture,  "  Weep  with  those  that  weep." 
Home,  with  near,  and  dear,  and  departed  friends,  came  suddenly 
in  the  memory. 

The  service  over,  a  large  dish  of  rice,  covered  with  raisins  and 
sugar,  is  passed  to  the  priest,  who  applies  the  spoon,  and  it  then 
goes  the  rounds,  the  boys  and  idlers  coming  in  for  the  balance. 


CXXXVII. 

TiFLis,  Capital  of  Georgia,  June  6,  1858. 

From  Yalta,  I  embarked  for  Theodosie  and  Kertch,  upon  the 
Straits  of  Azoff.  The  former  place  is  designated  as  the  ter- 
minus of  the  railroad  from  Moscow,  as  its  harbor  never  freezes. 

Kertch  was  partly  burned  by  the  allies  during  the  war.  Its 
population  is  some  fifteen  thousand.  It  has  a  good  harbor  for 
vessels  bound  either  for  ports  in  the  Black  Sea,  or  going  up  the 
Sea  of  Azoff  for  cargoes  of  grain.  There  were  some  fifty  sail  of 
all  kinds  at  anchor. 

In  company  with  the  French  and  English  consuls  I  rode  some 
fifteen  miles  to  the  Sea  of  Azoff,  visiting  also  some  extensive 
Tumuli,  or  mounds  for  cemeteries,  in  which  have  been  found 
very  interesting  relics,  supposed  to  be  from  the  reign  of  king 
Mithridates,  132  years  before  Christ.  They  are  quite  similar  to 
those  I  once  found  in  Upsal,  in  Sweden.  The  masonry  is  in  a 
perfect  state  of  preservation.  The  prairie  country  extends  for 
miles  about  the  city,  and  hares  are  found  in  great  abundance. 
Our  horses  and  dogs  gave  them  a  fine  chase. 

I  took  a  steamer  at  Kertch  for  the  Asiatic  side  of  the  Black 
Sea,  passing  along  the  Circassian  coast  with  its  towering  snow- 
capped mountains.  The  small  ports  or  roadsteads  are  occupied 
by  the  Eussian  military,  which  cannot  get  a  foothold  in  the 
interior. 

Heavy  weather  prevented  our  arrival  at  Soukum  Kale  until 
the  second  day.  It  is  a  bad  roadstead,  but  beautifully  situated 
amid  the  greenest  and  most  luxuriant  vegetation,  reminding  me 
of  the  West  Indies  or  the  coast  of  Venezuela,  by  its  prolific  growth. 


508  REDOUT    KALE. 

The  little  colony  being  among  roses  and  acacias  in  full  bloom, 
the  air  is  odoriferous  with  perfume.  The  inhabitants  are, 
however,  virtually  imprisoned,  the  heights  being  occupied  by 
barracks,  and  troops  who  cannot  go  beyond  a  certain  limit. 

The  villages  of  the  Abasiens  are  seen  in  the  distance,  and  we 
would  fain  have  taken  horses  for  a  ride  thither,  but  were  warned 
not  to  walk  even,  beyond  a  certain  point,  under  the  penalty  of  a 
ball  from  the  enemy.  Notwithstanding  the  chief  of  the  tribe  is 
friendly  and  under  pay  from  the  Russian  government,  and  we 
saw  him  and  his  harem  on  board  of  a  steamer  put  at  his  disposal, 
still  his  people  are  not  reliable,  and  the  Russians  cannot  penetrate 
the  country,  but  are  obliged  to  make  a  detour  by  Redout  Kale, 
where  we  landed  the  following  day. 

It  is  bad,  like  all  the  other  roadsteads  along  the  coast,  and  fre- 
quently the  semi-monthly  steamers  cannot  land,  and  passengers 
are  obliged  to  wait  a  month  to  embark.  The  breakers  were 
rolling  strongly,  but  we  landed  at  the  mouth  of  the  little  river 
Orion,  at  the  miserable  town,  among  such  a  rough,  bandit-look- 
ing race  as  one  seldom  sees.  The  captain  of  the  post  was  very 
civil,  and  invited  my  companion  and  myself  to  dine  and  occupy 
part  of  his  miserable  quarters,  until  we  could  lay  in  a  stock  of 
provisions  and  supplies  for  voyage  in  the  interior. 

I  had  imagined  and  was  prepared  for  a  rough  time  in  visiting 
these  regions,  but  the  reality  far  exceeded  my  expectations.  A 
Russian  officer,  attached  to  the  General's  staff  of  the  Circassian 
army,  accompanied  me,  and  was  provided  with  a  Poderozna,  or 
authority  for  horses  and  escort.  He  came  directly  from  St. 
Petersburg,  and  found  himself  equally  disappointed. 

We  were  provided  with  saddle  horses  for  ourselves  and  others 
for  our  luggage,  and  supplied  with  Cossack  guides  well  armed. 
We  made  seventy-two  wersts  in  this  manner,  passing  through  a 
lovely  country,  among  trees  of  great  growth  and  freshness,  and 
woods  in  places  filled  with  wild  grape-vines.  There  are  no  gene- 
ral roads,  and  we  travelled  mostly  by  paths. 

Our  first  night  was  passed  under  the  roof  of  an  old  peasant, 
with  his  wife,  and  a  little  boy  and  girl  in  ragged  clothes,  as  our 
companions.  The  one-roomed  hut  was  thatched  with  straw,  and 
had  an  opening  in  the  side  for  the  escape  of  the  smoke  from  a 
fire  built  on  the  earth  floor  in  the  centre.  A  few  eggs  roasted 
in  the  cinders  were  all  that  could  be  procured,  with  the  excep- 


GEORGIAN  VILLAGES.  509 

tion  of  a  small  kettle  to  boil  our  tea  water  in,  and  a  few  bundles 
of  straw  upon  which  to  spread  our  blankets.  We  had  forgotten 
candles  in  our  list  of  supplies,  and  I  was  quite  amused  at  the 
manner  in  which  the  deficiency  was  supplied.  The  woman  had 
some  yellow  wax,  and  tore  off  a  strip  of  her  shawl  to  make  the 
wick,  upon  which  it  was  twisted. 

When  we  arrived  at  the  village  of  Marvan  we  procured  post 
horses  over  natural  roads,  in  the  rudest  vehicle  in  the  world, 
upon  seats  made  of  hay,  with  ropes  stretched  across. 

The  country  is  diversified,  consisting  of  valleys,  prairies,  and 
mountains.  The  mountain  roads  have  been  made  by  the  Eus- 
sian  troops,  who  are  found  throughout  the  country,  but  are 
miserably  made  and  dangerous.  Many  small  and  rapid  streams 
are  crossed.  Nature  in  her  primeval  state  presents  many  beau- 
tiful views.  The  distant  Circassian  mountains  covered  with 
snow,  and  the  plains,  remind  me  of  California  and  Oregon. 

Agriculture  is  of  the  most  primitive  kind.  Wooden  ploughs 
drawn  by  eight  yoke  of  oxen  are  used.  Cattle  and  horses  are  seen 
in  abundance,  but  the  people  have  no  idea  of  comfort  or  luxury. 
Their  caps  are  of  sheepskin,  the  curled  woolly  side  out.  They 
carry  from  twelve  to  sixteen  bone  or  reed  cartouche  boxes  sewed 
on,  or  attached  to  the  breast  of  the  dress,  and  with  their  long  cara- 
bines on  the  back,  and  cutlasses  at  the  side,  are  always  pre- 
pared for  an  attack  of  the  enemy.  This  has  from  long  use 
become  the  national  costume. 

The  villages  more  remote  from  the  coast  are  almost  entirely 
under  ground.  The  huts  have  the  front  part  raised  to  the  height 
of  half  a  story,  and  the  roofs  run  back  to  a  level  with  the  ground, 
covered  with  sod  and  earth ;  and  there  they  burrow,  surrounded 
by  a  beautiful  and  fertile  country,  capable  of  producing  every- 
thing, but  still  in  a  state  of  semi-barbarism. 

We  were  five  days  making  the  distance.  The  stations  where 
horses  are  changed  are  mostly  miserable  affairs — infinitely  worse 
than  in  the  north  of  Kussia,  and  exceedingly  filthy.  There  are 
some  exceptions,  where  supplies  can  be  procured.  One  who 
makes  this  journey  is  called  upon  to  suffer  privations  and 
fatigues  of  all  kinds,  and  any  one  but  a  Eussian  or  an  old  traveller 
would  be  disheartened  at  the  outset.  This  season  of  the  year  is 
the  most  favorable,  and  the  voyage  to  this  place  is  now  accom- 
plished. 


510  TIFLIS. 

This  citj  is  curious  to  visit  in  many  particulars.  It  has  a 
population  of  sixty  thousand,  composed  of  a  great  variety  of 
races,  Armenians,  Persians,  Georgians,  Turks,  Jews,  Russian 
military,  and  some  twelve  hundred  officers,  who  are  not  per- 
mitted to  go  out  without  their  swords,  as  the  whole  country  is 
in  a  state  of  war  with  the  Circassians. 

Prince  Bariatanski  is  the  Viceroy,  and  has  supreme  power. 
There  are  some  three  hundred  thousand  troops  scattered  over 
this  whole  territory,  to  defend  the  mountain  passes  from  the 
attacks  of  Schamyl  and  the  Circassians,  and  to  keep  open  the 
communication  with  the  North  and  the  Caspian  Sea. 

The  city  is  upon  the  banks  of  a  rapid  river  or  torrent,  and  is 
surrounded  by  high  hills,  which  renders  it  now  very  hot. 
There  is  a  strange  compound  of  civilization  and  barbarism  here. 
There  is  a  handsome  theatre,  bazaars,  the  palace  and  garden  of  the 
Viceroy  and  of  the  former  King,  now  occupied  by  his  son,  a 
fine  botanical  garden  newly  laid  out,  well  built  bridges  and 
houses  for  officials,  and  a  colony  of  Germans  living  neatly  and 
comfortably,  while  beside  them  are  the  early  inhabitants  of  the 
country,  whose  huts  are  scarcely  above  the  surface,  and  who  live 
among  fleas  and  filth. 

Droskies  and  other  fine  carriages  and  horses,  extravagance 
in  the  dress  of  the  females,  and  beautiful  Georgian  ladies  of  the 
upper  classes,  with  their  picturesque  head-dresses,  abound. 

Russian  gold  and  silver  flows  like  water ;  a  hundred  millions 
of  rubles  are  expended  yearly  to  keep  up  the  war,  which  has  lasted 
now  thirty  years,  and  is  still  without  much  prospect  of  a  close. 

This  former  capital  of  the  Georgian  kings,  which  is  some 
three  hundred  and  fifty  wersts  in  the  interior,  was  abandoned  to 
the  Russians  about  the  beginning  of  the  present  century ;  the 
people  finding  themselves  no  longer  able  to  resist  the  attacks  of 
the  Persians,  Turks,  and  Armenians,  who  ravaged  the  country 
and  carried  off  the  women  and  children  as  slaves. 

The  commandant  of  the  city,  who  speaks  Russian,  German, 
and  French,  has  shown  me  many  civilities.  The  only  consuls 
here  are  the  French  and  Persian ;  to  the  former  I  am  also 
indebted.  The  hotels  are  execrable.  The  French  adventurers 
have  succeeded  well  in  the  introduction  of  Paris  fineries,  as 
money  has  but  little  value ;  comparing  favorably  with  California 
in  its  infancy. 


IN  THE   WAGON.  511 

All  advise  me  to  pass  up  through  the  Circassian  mountains  to 
the  north,  as  the  weather  is  now  hot,  and  there  is  less  danger 
and  delay  from  avalanches,  and  the  passes  are  less  infested  by 
bandits.  I  shall  probably  go  in  company  with  a  Eussian  officer, 
and  have  an  escort  when  necessary. 


CXXXVIII. 

PiATiGORSK,  CiRCASSiA,  June  12,  1858. 

I  MUST  give  you  some  details  of  the  trip  to  this  place,  across 
the  Circassian  mountains,  and  over  the  fortified  road  dividing 
the  territory  of  Schamyl ;  to  the  right  coming  up  towards  the 
Caspian  Sea  and  the  Circassians,  and  on  the  left  bordering  on 
the  Black  Sea. 

We  left  the  scorching  city  at  five  p.m.,  and  were  glad  to  escape 
the  intense  heat.  We  made  two  stations,  thirty-four  wersts, 
when  horses  were  not  forthcoming  until  early  the  next  morning. 
The  station  was  one  of  the  most  miserable  on  the  route,  and 
between  filth  and  vermin  we  were  glad  to  leave  at  four  A.M. 

My  companion,  a  Georgian  captain  in  the  Russian  service,  and 
myself  occupied  a  Tarantas,  a  wagon  of  the  country,  with  a 
carriage  body  mounted  on  long  poles,  the  servant  in  front. 

At  seven  o'clock  we  discovered  that  the  baggage  had  been  cut 
away  from  the  rear  of  the  vehicle,  entailing  considerable  loss  to 
my  companion.  My  own  baggage  was  fortunately  in  front. 
Information  was  given  to  the  officer  in  command  at  the  next 
village  to  send  Cossacks  in  pursuit  of  the  offenders.  The 
wheels  of  our  vehicle  showed  signs  of  weakness,  and  the  smith's 
services  were  called  to  cut  and  renew  the  tires,  much  to  his 
advantage,  as  those  who  travel  in  carriages  are  expected  to  pay. 

Towards  sunset  of  the  second  day  we  commenced  the  ascent 
of  the  mountains  over  a  miserably  rocky  road,  at  a  snail's  pace, 
with  eight  yoke  of  oxen,  and  arrived  at  a  station  where  the 
night  was  passed.  It  was  a  lovely  evening,  pleasantly  cool,  and 
the  snow-capped  peaks  of  the  mountains  of  El  Brus  and  Casbeck, 
from  fourteen  thousand  to  sixteen  thousand  feet  high,  by  the 
light  of  a  full  moon,  were  magnificent  to  gaze  upon. 

An  early  start,  with  relays  of  horses  at  each  station,  carried 
us  over  the  zigzag  winding  roads,  which  are  without  parapet 


512  SCHAMYL  AND  THE   CIRCASSIANS. 

walls.  The  drivers  are  exceedingly  expert  in  the  management 
of  their  three  horses  abreast,  coursing  along  the  margin  of  yawn- 
ing precipices,  hundreds  of  feet  in  depth.  The  mountain  tor- 
rents and  the  remains  of  avalanches  did  not  retard  our  progress. 
The  season,  however,  favored  us,  as  travellers  are  sometimes 
detained  for  weeks. 

The  wild  and  savage  appearance  of  the  country,  the  rudely 
constructed  roads,  the  primitive  costume  of  the  people,  who  are 
partly  dressed  in  skins,  and  nearly  all  armed,  the  fortified  passes, 
the  galleries  in  the  rock,  the  narrow  defiles  occupied  by  the 
Eussian  soldiery,  to  prevent  the  attacks  of  the  Circassians,  and 
the  feeling  that  you  are  liable  to  be  arrested  and  carried  into 
captivity,  or  shot  by  them,  kept  up  a  different  state  of  feeling 
than  that  caused  by  ordinary  travel. 

We  passed  several  fortresses  well  provided  with  soldiers,  arms, 
and  ammunition,  to  protect  the  road.  The  men  are  employed  in 
constructing  or  repairing  the  route,  as  the  Russian  soldier  per- 
forms the  most  menial  service,  and  is  not  exempt  until  after 
twenty-five  years.  The  term  is,  however,  reduced  under  the 
present  emperor.  His  pay  and  supplies  are  a  mere  bagatelle, 
and  he  is  a  machine,  obeying  the  will  of  his  ofiicer. 

The  road  is  now  considered  tolerably  safe,  with  the  exception 
of  the  stations  where  a  ball  may  be  sent  through  the  unsuspect- 
ing traveller. 

The  Russian  troops  are  gradually  hemming  in  Schamyl  on 
one  side,  and  the  Circassians  on  the  other.  Both  are  Mussulman 
races,  but  have  little  intercourse,  as  Schamyl  is  the  leader  of  a 
fanatical  people  who  repose  all  confidence  in  their  chief.  The 
pasturage  and  tillage  grounds  have  been  taken  from  them,  and 
they  are  now  more  closely  lodged  in  the  fastnesses  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  with  less  means  of  life.  The  Circassians  on  the  Black 
Sea  can  obtain  contraband  supplies  from  Turkey,  via  Trebizond, 
and  can  dispose  of  their  children  to  advantage,  the  girls  looking 
forward  with  pleasure  to  the  sale  and  prospect  of  occupying  an 
important  position  in  the  harems. 

During  the  war  of  the  allies,  Schamyl  made  a  descent  when 
least  expected,  and  carried  off  two  Georgian  princesses  and  their 
children.  They  suffered  mucb  from  cold  in  the  mountains, 
although  well  treated.  The  ransom  demanded  by  the  robber 
chief  was  his  son,  who  was  taken  by  the  Russians  when  eight 


VLADA   KAUKAS.  513 

years  old,  and  sent  to  St.  Petersburg  for  his  education,  besides 
eight  millions  of  roubles.  They  not  knowing  the  value  of 
money,  ten  ox-carts  loaded  with  small  coins  were  forwarded, 
with  his  unwilling  son,  now  grown  to  manhood  in  civilized 
society,  and  the  exchange  was  made,  much  to  the  satisfaction  of 
distressed  families  and  friends. 

The  Circassians  are  most  dexterous  horsemen,  and  fond  of 
adventure  among  themselves.  A  man  who  has  not  shown  acts 
of  daring  is  little  considered ;  while  if  he  can  bring  down  the 
enemy,  or  take  him  captive  in  order  to  obtain  a  ransom,  he  has 
done  acts  worthy  of  the  consideration  of  the  people.  One  year 
since,  in  the  place  from  which  I  write,  the  little  son  of  a  physi- 
cian was  picked  up  by  a  mounted  Circassian,  and  carried  out  of 
sight  before  the  alarm  was  fully  given.  A  ransom  of  a  thou- 
sand roubles  was  demanded,  but  the  government  is  opposed  to 
the  payment  of  tribute,  and  he  is  still  among  them. 

We  arrived  the  third  night  at  Vlada  Kaukas,  prettily  situated 
upon  a  rapid  river,  or  mountain  torrent,  a  pleasant  town  of  Rus- 
sian creation,  the  residence  of  the  officials  of  the  district,  civil 
and  military,  containing  the  barracks,  hospitals,  &c.  The  houses 
are  built  of  stone,  wood,  and  unburnt  bricks,  many  covered 
with  iron  roofs,  painted  green,  as  indeed  are  almost  all  the  Rus- 
sian churches,  which  produces  a  cheering  effect  after  seeing 
nothing  but  straw  roofs  in  the  interior. 

We  could  here  renew  our  supplies,  as  it  must  be  remembered 
nothing  can  be  obtained  to  eat  or  drink  on  the  road  in  these  wild 
countries.  The  stations  are  furnished  with  a  few  chairs,  or 
wooden  sofas,  to  pass  the  night  upon,  and  a  Semivar,  or  tea 
machine  for  hot  water,  with  which  to  prepare  your  own  tea,  can 
always  be  obtained.  All  other  appliances  for  sleeping,  and  to 
support  life,  you  must  carry  with  you,  or  starve. 

At  the  place  named  we  were  detained  one  day  waiting  for 
horses,  as  the  commanding  officer  had  ordered  all  the  post  horses 
for  the  use  of  Cossacks,  who  were  in  hot  pursuit  of  the  enemy, 
who  had  committed  some  depredations. 

We  were  glad  to  have  passed  the  seat  of  difficulty  in  good 
time.  We  were  not  allowed  to  travel  at  night,  and  the  whole 
line  upon  the  steppes,  some  two  hundred  wersts,  was  occupied, 
up  to  our  arrival  at  this  place,  by  Cossack  sentinels  at  intervals 
of  a  few  wersts,  generally  three  together,  mounted  upon  a  plat- 

33 


514  PIATIGORSK. 

form  erected  upon  four  poles  adjoining  tbeir  cabins.  EacTi  is 
furnished  with  a  ladder  to  ascend  by,  and  a  straw  cover  to  pro- 
tect the  men  from  wind  and  rain.  Mounds  of  earth  are  also 
often  thrown  up  as  observatories,  and  their  horses  are  always 
saddled  and  bridled  ready  to  pursue  the  enemy. 

Huge  stone  crucifixes  point  out  the  spots  where  the  unfortu- 
nate Cossack  peasants,  sent  down  for  colonization  and  cultivation 
of  the  soil,  have  been  killed. 

Some  of  the  Circassians  have  submitted  to  Kussian  rule,  and 
occupy  their  villages  unmolested.  A  few  reside  in  the  Russian 
towns,  consequently  they  know  all  that  is  occurring,  and  act  as 
spies  when  necessary.  They  are  a  fine-looking  race  of  people, 
and  their  costume  is  picturesque.  I  have  heard  Russian  officers 
who  have  known  them  personally  say,  that  if  they  had  their  way 
they  would  not  wage  war  against  them,  while  others  go  for  exter- 
mination. 

Circassia  is  to  Russia,  what  Algeria  is  to  France — a  military 
school,  a  means  of  patronage  for  officials,  and  a  source  for  deco- 
rations and  honors,  at  the  expense  of  the  empire  in  general. 

On  the  main  road  towards  Staverpool,  at  the  little  town  of 
Gorgiesk,  fairs  are  held  twice  a  year  for  general  supplies. 

A  detour  of  thirty-four  wersts  brought  me  to  this  place. 
Within  a  circuit  of  forty  wersts  are  found  hot  and  cold,  sulphur, 
iron,  salt  and  soda  springs.  I  design  visiting  all  of  them,  and 
will  speak  of  their  qualities  in  my  next.  This  place  derives  its 
name,  Piatigorsk,  from  five  small  picturesque  mountains  within 
sight.  It  is  romantically  situated,  and  may  be  made  a  lovely 
spot. 

There  are  six  sources  of  hot  and  cold  sulphur  water,  and  the 
government  has  expended  large  sums  in  erecting  baths  and  lay- 
ing out  the  grounds  in  imitation  of  the  Germans ;  but  the  dis- 
tances are  so  immense,  the  bad  roads  and  want  of  accommoda- 
tions so  great,  that  the  Russians  prefer  going  to  Germany,  now 
they  can  have  passports.  There  are  some  four  hundred  here, 
where  two  thousand  might  be  accommodated  with  private  lodg- 
ings. I  am  the  only  foreigner  here.  The  military  band  plays 
morning  and  evening,  and  the  little  Russian  boys  and  girls,  profit 
in  waltzing  and  dancing  upon  the  gravelled  walks  under  the 
shade  trees,  to  the  delight  of  mothers  and  governesses. 


GELESNOVODSKI.  515 


CXXXIX. 

Staverpool,  Northern  Circassia,  June  22,  1858. 

In  my  last  from  Piatigorsk  I  stated  my  intention  of  visiting 
the  other  mineral  sources.  Of  these  Gelesnovodski  furnishes  hot 
iron  water,  and  is  one  of  the  few  in  the  world  of  the  hot  ferrugi- 
nous kind.  It  is  romantically  situated  some  twenty  wersts  from 
the  place  above  named.  It  is  a  village  of  Cossack  peasants,  who 
were  whitewashing  and  brushing  up  their  rude  cabins,  built  of 
branches  of  trees  trellised  or  woven  together,  with  a  mud  coat- 
ing on  both  sides,  and  a  coat  of  white  for  appearance.  The  roofs 
are  entirely  of  straw,  and  of  the  most  primitive  style.  A  few 
decent  houses  have  been  erected,  and  the  government  has  built 
some  ordinary  baths,  and  the  woods  and  grounds  have  some 
walks  and  drives  cut  through.  I  went  out  in  company  with  the 
Director  of  the  Baths  at  Piatigorsk,  which  was  fortunate,  as  the 
season  had  fairly  commenced  and  no  hotels  were  open,  but  being 
introduced  to  a  certain  baroness  just  established  in  her  own 
house,  we  had  a  very  respectable  dinner. 

Some  thirty  wersts  in  another  direction  is  the  most  remarkable 
soda  fountain  I  have  ever  seen  in  any  country,  called  Kissno- 
vodski.  Here  the  crown  has  expended  considerable  suras  in  the 
erection  of  bathing  buildings  of  massive  masonry.  The  pro- 
menades through  the  woods  are  in  good  order  for  visitors.  The 
source  is  about  ten  feet  in  diameter  and  throws  out  four  hundred 
gallons  per  minute,  bubbling  up  like  soda  water  or  sparkling 
champagne,  being  highly  charged  with  carbonic  acid  gas.  It  is 
slightly  charged  with  iron,  and  is  delicious  either  with  or 
without  wine.  It  is  used  at  the  close  of  the  season  for  batliing 
and  drinking,  giving  extraordinary  strength  to  the  muscles  of 
the  body.  Such  a  spring  in  a  civilized  and  settled  country, 
where  there  were  facilities  to  get  to  it,  would  be  a  mine  of  wealth. 
Salt  springs  are  also  found  about  midway  in  going  out. 

A  Tartar  village  lies  to  the  right  on  the  way  to  the  springs 
first  named,  and  also  a  village  of  German  colonists  about 
midway,  which  I  visited  a  few  days  since  in  company  with  a 
party  of  Russian  officers  and  their  wives.  I  learned  from  an 
old  German  that  the  government  gave  them  the  use  of  lands  in 
common,  with  certain  immunities.     I  also  found  here  an  old 


516  COSSACK   VILLAGES. 

Scotchman  wlio  had  nearly  forgotten  English,  having  come  out 
with  the  first  missionaries,  of  whom  none  now  exist.  Both 
these  old  people  had  friends  in  the  United  States,  and  you  can 
well  imagine  their  joy  and  surprise  at  seeing  an  American  for 
the  first  time. 

I  have  had  occasion  to  pass  nights  in  Cossack  houses,  when 
horses  were  wanting  at  the  stations,  or  it  was  unsafe  travelling 
after  dark,  and  when  the  only  room  in  the  post  station  was 
occupied,  and  I  found  the  contrast  between  the  tidy,  comfortable 
cottages  of  the  German  settlers,  and  the  filthy  dwellings  and 
habits  of  the  Cossacks,  Tartars,  and  Kalmucks,  most  striking. 

Their  villages  are  generally  from  twenty  to  twenty-six  wersts 
apart,  and  are  about  a  mile  square,  with  a  mud  wall  or  brush 
fence  and  embankment  all  round,  and  sentinels  at  the  gates. 
The  houses,  barns,  and  sheds  are  thatched  with  straw,  and  suffi- 
ciently remote  from  each  other  to  guard  against  fire.  The  streets 
or  roads  are  one  hundred  feet  in  width,  and  many  are  planted 
with  trees. 

The  plains  are  used  for  pasture  and  tillage,  and  at  nightfall 
the  oxen,  sheep,  goats,  and  hogs  are  driven  in  by  the  shepherds, 
when  all  the  boys  and  girls  of  the  village  turn  out  to  drive 
their  respective  animals  into  the  fold.  They  cultivate  the 
ground,  and  harvest  their  crops  at  great  distances  from  the 
villages,  and  always  go  armed. 

They  are  the  pioneers  of  Kussian  civilization,  accustomed  to 
border  warfare  like  our  squatters  with  the  Indians.  The  govern- 
ment sends  down  villages  of  them  from  the  river  Don,  granting 
them  certain  privileges,  for  which  they  are  obliged  to  keep  the 
Circassians  at  bay  and  furnish  certain  numbers  of  guards  or 
sentinels,  who  change  about,  and  are  ever  ready  to  pursue  the 
enemy.  As  fast  as  portions  of  Circassian  territory  are  acquired, 
fortresses  and  troops  advance,  and  the  Cossacks  follow  up  and 
settle  upon  the  lands.     It  is  a  sort  of  semi-barbarous  civilization. 

For  a  distance  of  some  two  hundred  wersts  we  have  seen  no 
wood  of  any  consequence,  the  whole  country  consisting  of 
immense  steppes  or  plains.  The  small  water  courses  furnish 
brush  for  making  wicker  fences  and  frames  of  houses.  Artificial 
turf  is  made  from  the  straw,  hay,  and  deposit  of  the  barnyards, 
dried  in  the  sun,  and  cut  in  brick  form  in  summer  for  winter 
fuel.     The  ox-carts  and  wagons  are  entirely  of  wood,  not  a  nail 


A   RUSSIAN   NOBLEMAN.  517 

being  used  in  their  construction.  I  have  counted  from  fifty  to 
eighty  loaded  carts  at  a  time,  and  not  a  particle  of  iron  could  I 
discover.  The  wood  must  be  brought  long  distances  from  the 
mountains.  The  timber  for  building  at  this  place  is  brought 
some  six  hundred  wersts,  or  four  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  by 
land.  This  is  one  of  the  best  countries  in  the  world  for  rail- 
roads, and  if  occupied  by  Americans  the  enemy  would  be 
conquered  by  the  locomotive. 

I  passed  a  couple  of  days  with  a  Russian  nobleman  at  his 
village,  making  a  detour  of  some  thirty  wersts,  on  a  side  route 
upon  the  banks  of  a  little  river  where  was  quite  a  forest.  As 
the  question  of  the  emancipation  of  the  serfs  in  Russia  is  now 
the  absorbing  topic,  I  availed  myself  of  the  invitation.  In 
many  particulars  it  reminded  me  of  the  plantations  in  our 
southern  country.  Two  years  ago  the  village  of  cottages  was 
burned  down,  when  the  proprietor  immediately  built  brick  kilns, 
having  materials  and  wood  on  the  spot,  and  reconstructed  the 
houses  better  than  before.  He  is  one  of  the  few  Russian  nobles 
who  attends  personally  to  his  estate,  and  has  much  of  the  American 
in  his  composition  for  contrivance.  He  has  three  hundred 
and  eighty-four  serfs.  They  work  three  days  in  the  week  for 
their  lord,  and  three  for  themselves.  He  had  erected  a  flouring 
mill  of  very  rude  construction,  with  several  run  of  stones. 
Little  iron  was  made  use  of,  as  such  supplies  come  from  Moscow, 
and  are  very  expensive.  He  also  had  an  undershot  wheel  in 
the  little  creek  or  river  for  supplying  his  large  garden  and  fruit 
trees  with  water  by  irrigation,  as  the  steppes  or  plains  suffer 
much  at  times  from  drought.  The  little  girls  of  the  village 
were  busying  themselves  with  gathering  mulberry  leaves  for 
feeding  silkworms,  as  he  had  erected  a  building  for  the  purpose. 
The  women  and  men  were  employed  in  all  kinds  of  agricultural 
work.  He  has  his  overseers,  but  is  quite  practical  himself. 
His  family  was  absent,  but  his  home  was  comfortable,  and  I  was 
treated  most  hospitably. 

He  was  willing  to  join  in  the  manumission  of  the  serfs,  now 
the  commands  of  the  government  fall  upon  him.  If  the  serfs 
are  liberated,  he  can  rent  his  land  to  them,  also  sell  or  rent 
horses,  oxen,  &c.,  and  if  he  employs  them,  pay  wages.  His 
domain  is  about  ten  miles  square. 

Staverpool  is  the  seat  of  government  for  northern  Circassia, 


518  STAVEEPOOL. 

It  is  a  town  of  fourteen  thousand  inhabitants,  built  upon  a  pretty 
site  in  the  midst  of  a  picturesque  country,  and  surrounded  by 
hills,  and  valleys,  and  groups  of  forest  trees.  It  is  pretty  well 
built,  and  contains  a  cathedral,  and  churches,  with  domes,  spires, 
and  roofs  painted  green,  as  usual,  presenting  a  fine  appearance. 
In  all  Kussian  towns  the  churches  are  the  most  striking  orna- 
ments. 

I  was  presented  to  the  governor,  dined  with  generals  and  colo- 
nels in  the  service,  and  passed  an  evening  at  a  re-union  of  the 
citizens  in  a  beautiful  woody  grove,  with  a  building  for  dancing 
and  sapper,  at  which  figured  the  glittering  uniforms  of  officers 
in  all  the  different  branches  of  government  employ,  and  some 
pretty  ladies,  handsomely  dressed.  Paris  modes  and  fineries  find 
their  way  to  the  most  remote  parts.  Two  Circassian  princes,  in 
full  costume,  were  among  the  number  for  their  first  time  in  civi- 
lized society  ;  but  like  our  Indians,  did  not  express  surprise  at 
the  giddy  waltz,  or  the  music  of  the  military  band. 


CXL. 

Taganrog,  Russia,  June  28,  1858. 

From  Staverpool  I  had  five  hundred  wersts  to  travel  in  order 
to  strike  the  waters  of  the  river  Don,  at  Rastoff,  a  town  which 
thrives  through  the  increasing  grain  trade.  From  thence  I  came 
in  a  tug  steamer  to  this  city,  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Sea  of 
Azoflf. 

The  scenery  on  the  route  is  little  varied,  consisting  of  vast 
steppes,  or  plains,  with  seldom  any  timber  to  be  seen,  and  Cos- 
sack villages  every  twenty  wersts  and  upwards.  Immense 
droves  of  cattle,  sheep,  goats,  and  horses  are  frequently  observed 
grazing,  and  cultivation  is  somewhat  better  and  more  general 
than  in  the  country  I  had  passed  through  before. 

The  natural  roads  over  the  prairies  are  easy  for  horses  and  for 
travellers,  but  quite  monotonous.  Posting  is  less  difficult,  and 
less  dangerous,  from  the  attacks  of  freebooters,  being  out  of  the 
district  of  the  Circassians,  but  it  is  almost  as  difficult  to  obtain 
supplies  on  the  road. 

When  horses  were  obtainable,  we  kept  on  until  late  at  night, 
as  my  companion  assured  me  there  was  no  danger.     He  was 


TAGANROG,  519 

familiar  with  the  roads,  and,  notwithstanding  others  laj  by 
through  apprehension,  and  postmasters  would  not  furnish  horses 
after  dark,  he  said  at  the  point  where  we  were,  the  Circassians 
could  not  seize  us,  and  get  across  the  line  of  sentinels  by  day- 
light ;  besides  which,  at  this  season  they  had  their  engagements, 
and  can  also  be  traced  through  the  grass.  As  I  was  anxious  to 
get  on  to  catch  the  weekly  steamer,  I  allowed  myself  to  be  con- 
vinced, and  can  now  rejoice  at  being  out  of  the  reach  of  the 
Abassiens,  Mingraliens,  Georgians,  Circassians,  and  Cossacks. 

A  few  evenings  since,  at  one  of  the  rude  stations  where  we 
passed  the  night,  a  pleasing  rencontre  for  my  friend  was  the 
meeting  of  a  general  en  route  for  his  post  on  the  shores  of  the 
Caspian.  They  had  not  met  since  they  were  cadets  together, 
some  fifteen  years  before.  He  was  provided  with  some  choice 
sherry  and  some  old  Ilavanas,  which  gave  additional  zest  to  an 
evening  in  a  barbarous  country. 

This  pretty,  well-built  town,  occupied  in  part  by  Greeks,  who 
have  made  fortunes  in  the  grain  trade,  was  sadly  mutilated  by 
the  fleets  of  the  allies.  Many  of  the  ruined  houses  and  maga- 
zines have  been  restored.  I  counted  thirteen  cannon  shot  in  the 
front  of  the  house  of  an  eccentric  individual,  who  had  made  his 
repairs,  and  stuccoed  the  balls,  mosaic  like,  in  the  front.  The 
lower  part  of  the  city,  under  the  bluff,  was  entirely  destroyed^ 
and  the  upper  part,  on  the  hill,  badly  damaged. 

There  are  some  two  hundred  vessels,  of  different  nations,  in 
the  roadstead,  waiting  for  cargoes  of  flint  wheat,  or  the  lighters 
loaded  with  the  ordinary  kinds,  brought  from  Rastoff,  or  higher 
up  in  the  Don.  Large  quantities  are  transported  from  the  river 
Wolga  to  the  Don,  and  floated  down.  The  fisheries  of  the 
river  are  also  important,  and  quantities  of  caviar  are  made  from 
the  eggs  of  the  sturgeon,  for  exportation.  The  hide,  wool,  and 
tallow  traffic  is  also  considerable. 

A  monument  to  the  Emperor  Alexander,  who  died  here  after 
his  visit  to  the  Crimea,  is  erected  upon  the  public  square.  The 
so-called  palace,  a  large  mansion  house,  where  he  died,  is  visited 
generally  by  Russian  travellers.  The  room  he  died  in  has  an 
altar  in  it,  and  the  priest  who  was  with  him  in  his  last  hours 
still  lives,  and  presides  on  festive  occasions.  I  noticed  here,  also, 
that  a  few  stray  shots  of  the  enemy  had  done  their  work. 

I  found  one  village  near  Rastoff  almost  exclusively  occupied 


520  THE    KALMUCKS. 

by  Armenians.  Their  churches  are  handsome  edifices,  and  will 
compare  favorably  with  the  Eussian  churches  for  beauty  of 
architecture,  and  the  towers  and  cupolas  painted  white,  with 
green  roofs,  have  a  pretty  effect.  The  interior  decorations  are 
not  unlike  the  Russian  Greek  churches,  which,  in  paintings, 
images,  crucifixes,  lamps,  and  candles,  are  more  overloaded  than 
the  Latin  Catholics. 

The  Armenians  are  generally  a  money -getting  race,  and  sur- 
pass the  Jews  in  financiering. 

Among  the  different  races  which  I  have  found  in  this  country, 
the  Kalmucks  must  not  be  forgotten.  They  remind  me  of  the 
Chinese  as  far  as  traits  of  feature  are  concerned.  They  are 
mostly  employed  as  shepherds.  Their  huts  are  made  of  a  sort 
of  felt,  under  which  husband,  wife,  and  children  are  grouped 
together.  They  use  for  covering  the  skins  of  sheep,  and  live 
upon  black  bread  and  loppered  milk.  They  kill  no  animal  for 
food,  it  being  contrary  to  religious  prejudice ;  but  when  one 
dies,  I  notice  the  great  iron  pot  is  partly  filled  with  water,  and 
placed  over  the  fire  in  the  middle  of  the  tent.  The  intestines 
of  the  beast  are  boiled  with  slices  of  pressed  common  tea,  which 
comes  overland  in  the  shape  of  cakes,  and  a  soup  is  prepared 
for  the  whole  family. 

Russia  comprises  such  an  infinity  of  races,  some  half-civilized, 
and  some  barbarian,  that  it  is  not  surprising,  notwithstanding 
the  upper  classes  are  educated,  and  have  the  surface,  or  gloss,  of 
high  civilization,  that  one  often  discovers  the  traces  of  barbar- 
ism when  least  expected.  They  are  hospitable  in  general,  and 
I  have  received  many  civilities  at  their  hands  ;  but  nevertheless 
the  proverb,  "  Scratch  the  Russian  a  little,  and  under  the  surface 
you  find  the  Tartar,"  in  many  instances  is  not  incorrect.  They 
are  trying  to  improve  their  condition,  but  what  can  be  done  by 
a  people  who  rely  upon  the  will  of  one  man,  whose  word  is 
law? 

The  routine  of  Bureaucracy  is  fearful.  The  laws  are  a  mass 
of  ukases  issued  by  the  different  emperors,  and  many  remain 
dead  letters.  For  instance  the  Emperor  Nicholas,  hearing  of  a 
great  conflagration  from  the  use  of  lucifer  matches,  issued  an  edict 
prohibiting  their  introduction,  which  does  not  prevent  the  general 
use  of  them  ;  still  the  ukase  is  not  countermanded.  The  abuses 
of  officials  are  also  startling.     The  government  was  robbed  to  a 


MONEY   MATTERS.  521 

great  extent  during  the  war  by  persons  who  are  now  living  in 
splendor.  Many  were  detected  who  had  sent  their  ill-gotten  gains 
to  the  bank  on  interest ;  these  sums  were  confiscated. 

The  crown  has  now  reduced  the  rate  of  interest  from  four  to 
three  per  cent,  on  bank  deposits,  hoping  to  induce  the  people  to 
invest  in  railroads,  but  they  say  they  would  rather  have  three 
per  cent,  certain  than  risk  their  money  in  new  undertakings. 
There  is  no  spirit  of  public  enterprise  among  the  people,  and  if 
there  was,  every  possible  obstacle  would  be  thrown  in  the  way 
by  the  officers  and  employees  of  the  government. 

The  circulation  is  mostly  the  Government  Bank  paper,  which 
is  prohibited  from  coming  in  if  once  taken  out,  and  when  one 
leaves  the  country,  to  buy  gold  and  silver  he  must  pay  a  handsome 
advance,  as  both  of  the  precious  metals  bear  a  premium,  and  the 
bank  can  only  be  called  upon  for  small  sums.  The  natural  con- 
sequence of  such  a  state  of  things  in  any  country  is  advanced 
prices  for  all  articles  of  consumption. 

If  the  last  emperor  had  employed  one  half  the  vast  sums 
expended  in  keeping  up  a  gigantic  military  force,  in  improve- 
ments to  the  roads  and  rivers,  and  in  railways,  he  would  have 
been  a  great  benefactor  to  his  people. 

Much  is  hoped  and  expected  from  the  present  emperor,  who 
is  willing  to  be  guided  and  advised,  while  Nicholas  was  obsti- 
nate, and  his  will  was  law.  I  find  more  liberty  of  speech  and 
action  among  the  people  now  than  when  I  first  visited  Russia, 
ten  years  ago,  when  every  one  felt  as  if  his  neighbor  was  a  spy. 


CXLI. 

Odessa,  July  6,  1858. 
At  this  season  of  the  year  Odessa  is  only  livable  and  visible 
after  a  rain  storm,  such  as  we  have  just  had.  It  then  appears  to 
advantage,  as  the  houses  are  of  stone,  well  built,  with  metal  roofs 
painted  green.  The  soil  is  clayey,  and  the  streets  broad  and 
unpaved,  so  that  the  hundreds  of  ox  carts  loaded  with  grain  and 
the  immense  numbers  of  droskies  produce  a  perfect  cloud  of 
dust,  exceeding  anything  of  the  kind  in  the  world.  In  winter  it 
is  very  muddy,  but  at  this  period  of  heat  without  rain,  it  is  a  sort 
of  purgatory.     In  twenty-four  hours  it  will  be  dusty  again,  not- 


622  PASSPORTS. 

withstanding  the  heavy  fall  of  rain  we  have  just  had,  rendering 
the  streets  extremely  difiicult  to  cross.  There  are  magazines  or 
stores  in  the  city  for  fifteen  million  bushels  of  grain. 

A  great  annoyance  to  travellers  leaving  Russia  is  the  procur- 
ing of  passports.  All  the  necessary  measures  must  be  taken  at 
the  police  in  person,  and  the  intention  of  departure  must  be 
advertised  three  times  in  the  Russian  Journal,  which  appears 
only  every  other  day,  making  a  delay  of  a  week,  if  fortunately 
no  holiday  or  festival  intervenes.  At  every  point  you  are  taxed 
for  stamp  paper,  advertising  fees,  and  other  items,  to  sustain  the 
hordes  of  officers.  Your  pass  for  interior  travel  is  taken  from 
you,  and  a  new  one  has  to  be  made  out.  Your  original  pass 
must  be  vise  by  the  minister  or  consul  of  the  country  you  design 
visiting,  and  another  is  not  forthcoming  until  the  chief  of  the 
police  certifies  there  are  no  civil  or  criminal  charges  alleged,  and 
then,  perhaps,  it  is  too  late  for  the  weekly  steamer,  thereby 
detaining  the  stranger  against  his  will  for  perhaps  a  fortnight. 
I  am  now  only  in  possession  of  my  books  and  maps,  which  were 
seized  by  the  Censor  when  I  entered  Russia.  The  obstacles 
thrown  in  the  way  of  travellers  should  be  noticed  by  enlightened 
Governments.  Through  the  assistance  of  the  Governor,  to  whom 
I  went  in  person,  I  shall  get  through  with  less  difficulty.  The 
last  act  signed  is  by  the  Quarantine  Officer,  without  whose  vise 
one  cannot  get  on  board  of  the  steamer.  Is  it  any  wonder  that 
the  progress  of  this  great  nation  should  be  retarded  ?  Where 
would  the  United  States  be  if  our  system  was  as  contracted  as 
the  European  ? 

I  came  from  Taganrog  to  Kertch,  stopping  at  Esck,  a  new 
town  just  growing  up,  at  Mariopol,  and  at  Berdiansk,  the  latter 
a  little  city  of  commercial  importance,  but  whose  trade  may  now 
fall  off,  its  privileges  having  expired. 

In  order  to  build  up  a  new  city,  as  is  the  case  with  Esck, 
which  reminds  me  of  one  of  our  new  towns  in  the  West,  the 
commercial  tax  upon  a  merchant  is  taken  off  for  ten  years,  if  he 
will  erect  a  store  at  a  certain  cost  in  the  new  city.  Large  deal- 
ers in  Moscow,  or  other  cities,  find  it  to  their  advantage  to  make 
the  outlay,  without  ever  seeing  the  property.  The  system 
strikes  me  as  a  forced  one,  and  after  the  term  expires  the  town 
may  decline. 

The  ex-governor  of  Kertch  and  myself  were  the  only  persons 


RAISING  SHIPS   AT   SEBASTOPOL.  523 

landed  at  Esck,  and  tlie  governor  drove  us  around  in  his  drosky, 
and  to  his  house  for  refreshments. 

I  passed  a  day  at  Kertch,  where  I  met  the  newly  appointed 
consul  for  Soukum  Kale,  whose  family  I  knew  at  Tripoli.  We 
visited  the  governor  actual  of  the  city,  and  dined  with  the 
English  consul,  where  were  present  Spanish,  Neapolitan,  Sar- 
dinian, French,  English,  and  Tuscan  ministers  and  consuls,  and 
I  found  myself  the  only  non-official  at  the  table,  which,  how- 
ever, did  not  prevent  our  great  nation  from  having  a  represen- 
tative. 

I  next  embarked  for  Odessa,  touching  at  Theodosie,  Yalta, 
Sebastopol,  and  Eupatoria,  all  of  which  places  I  had  visited 
before.  A  telegraphic  dispatch  had  been  received  announcing 
the  plague  on  the  Barbary  coast,  where  I  was  last  winter,  and  to 
which  I  gave  little  credence.  The  alarm,  however,  was  great, 
and  it  looked  as  if  we  should  have  to  make  a  quarantine  of  fif- 
teen days,  as  the  steamer  had  come  from  Trebisond,  in  Turkey. 
The  whole  thing  was  ridiculous  ;  but  the  passengers  at  Theodo- 
sie were  not  allowed  to  land  at  first,  and  the  excitement  anion 2; 
the  ladies  was  quite  intense.  Having  made  two  quarantines 
formerly,  after  crossing  the  desert  to  Jerusalem,  and  from  Egypt 
to  Malta,  I  was  also  glad  to  escape. 

At  Sebastopol  I  found  our  countrymen  had  recently  raised  a 
Turkish  steamer  taken  by  the  Russians  during  the  war.  I 
examined  her  hull,  and  found  it  sound.  The  engines  and 
boilers  were  in  good  order.  The  upper  wood-work  of  pine  was 
much  eaten  by  the  worms,  but  the  painted  work  was  not  touched. 
They  have  heretofore  had  every  difficulty  to  contend  with,  and 
have  divided  the  property  raised,  or  exploded  and  fished  up, 
equally  with  the  government ;  but  the  crown  is  now  disposed'  to 
be  more  liberal,  and  the  company  are  to  have  all  they  save,  giv- 
ing half  the  chains  and  anchors  to  the  government,  and  are  to 
raise  the  frigate  Vladimir  gratis.  The  wharves  are  covered  with 
old  copper,  iron  bolts,  fragments  of  wood,  water  tanks,  &c.,  &c. ; 
altogether,  it  is  a  curious  collection.  It  is  to  be  hoped  they  will 
succeed,  particularly  as  the  English  Times  has  indulged  in  a  side 
thrust  at  both  Americans  and  Russians,  by  announcing  the 
failure  of  the  Americans,  and  that  the  harbor  must  remain 
blocked  up  until  the  worms  destroy  the  wrecks. 

Our  anniversary  was  not  forgotten  by  our  consul,  Mr.  Ralli,  a 


524  THEODOSIE. 

wealthy  Greek  merchant,  who  has  had  the  honor  and  little  pay 
for  the  last  twenty-four  years.  He  drove  me  to  his  country- 
seat,  where  a  sumptuous  dinner  and  fine  old  wines  were  pro- 
vided, and  toasts  heartily  drank  to  the  memory  of  the  father  of 
our  great  country.  As  the  writer  was  the  only  native  born  pre- 
sent, of  course  a  few  words  were  expected  from  him. 

Whether  it  was  by  accident  or  design  I  know  not,  but  a  later 
invitation  was  offered  from  Mr.  Matthew,  the  late  English  con- 
sul at  Philadelphia,  now  consul  general  here,  to  dine  the  same 
day,  but  deferred  for  a  subsequent  one. 

He  protests  his  innocence  in  the  affair  of  the  recruits,  which 
caused  his  removal,  and  looks  back  with  pleasure  upon  his 
sojourn  in  the  States,  where  he  left  many  warm  friends. 

The  terminus  of  a  railway  in  all  countries  awakes  a  spirit  of 
speculation,  which  I  was  struck  with  at  Theodosie,  the  projected 
terminus  of  a  railroad  from  Moscow,  which  may  be  a  long  time 
yet  in  construction.  The  people  were  brushing  up  and  making 
repairs  in  the  dull-looking  town,  and  property  was  already  out 
of  the  reach  of  buyers. 

In  the  suburbs  is  a  Tartar  village  of  mud  huts  and  thatched 
roofs.  While  strolling  through  the  Musselman  district  with  my 
map  in  my  hand,  and  tourist  glass  directed  to  the  chain  of  hills, 
with  their  line  of  wind-mills,  I  was  surrounded  by  men,  women, 
and  children,  whose  curiosity  was  excited  to  know,  either  from 
motives  of  interest,  or  dread  of  having  their  houses  torn  down, 
where  the  iron  horse  was  to  come  in,  they  having  of  course  an 
indefinite  idea  of  a  railroad. 

The  Russian  steamers  on  the  Azof  and  Black  Seas  are  of 
English  or  French  construction,  and  are  now  manned  by  Eussian 
officers.  Three  of  the  steamers  among  the  number  I  have  sailed 
in  had  none  but  Russian  servants,  speaking  their  language  only, 
which  is  awkward  for  such  strangers  as  have  no  knowledge  of 
the  same,  particularly  as  the  passage  tickets  include  dinner  only, 
and  all  other  meals  and  refreshments  are  extra,  so  that  at  the 
end  of  the  voyage  the  items  for  the  traveller  increase  the  expense 
from  a  third  to  a  half.  The  English  and  American  system  is 
the  best  for  sea  steamers,  where  all  is  included  and  payable  in 
advance.  For  the  information  of  those  who  desire,  it  may  be 
remarked  that  Russia  is  one  of  the  most  expensive  countries  in 
Europe  to  obtain  the  comforts  and  luxuries  of  life  in. 


A  GEORGIAN   PRINCESS.  525 

CXLII. 

Baden,  Austria,  July  28,  1858. 

Our  steamer  left  Odessa  at  six  p.  m.,  and  the  next  morning  at 
sunrise  we  found  ourselves  at  the  entrance  of  one  of  the  mouths 
of  the  Danube,  with  Sulina,  the  Turkish  port,  at  our  left,  a  small 
ill-built  wooden  town,  its  position  reminding  me  of  the  Balize 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi,  with  low  banks  and  marshy 
soil,  covered  with  reeds  and  rank  vegetation.  Large  numbers 
of  vessels  lie  straggling  along  the  wooden  wharves,  waiting  for 
a  favorable  wind,  and  tug  boats  to  tow  them  up  to  their  destined 
ports  for  cargoes  of  grain. 

We  had  but  few  passengers ;  among  the  number  was  a 
Georgian  Princess,  the  grand-daughter  of  the  last  King,  whom  I 
had  met  with  her  husband,  a  Russian  colonel,  in  their  own 
country.  This  lady  is  the  sister  of  the  Princesses  taken  captive 
by  Schamyl,  who  were  ransomed  by  the  Russian  government, 
as  mentioned  in  a  former  letter.  The  meeting  was  the  more 
agreeable,  because  quite  unexpected.  The  society  of  a  young 
and  beautiful  Georgian  woman,  with  all  the  simplicity  and 
amiability  of  the  lady,  speaking  the  English  and  French  lan- 
guage fluently,  as  well  as  her  husband,  a  man  of  Mrge  experi- 
ence in  Circassia,  was  calculated  to  make  a  long  trip  less  irksome 
than  it  would  otherwise  have  been. 

At  four  p.  M.  we  arrived  at  Galatz,  in  Moldavia,  a  city  of  some 
forty  thousand  inhabitants,  where  we  changed  steamers,  remain- 
ing there  thirty-six  hours,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  passengers 
from  Constantinople. 

A  larger  boat  was  now  furnished,  constructed  after  the  man- 
ner of  our  American  river  boats,  with  a  saloon  on  the  ipain 
deck,  abaft  the  wheels,  an  upper  promenade  deck,  and  a  number 
of  cabins  upon  the  forward  deck.  Our  numbers  being  consi- 
derably augmented,  the  heat  was  oppressive,  and  mosquitoes 
brought  back  reminiscences  of  the  Alabama  and  Apalachicola 
in  the  spring  time. 

"We  landed  at  Giurgevo,  in  Wallachia,  a  small  town,  the  port 
of  Bucharest.  Both  Galatz  and  the  place  named  lie  upon  the 
river  bank,  but  the  principal  parts  are  upon  bluffs  above, 
Galatz  has  a  mixed  population  of  all  races.     As  the  Principali 


526  ISMET   PACHA. 

ties  are  subject  to  Turkey,  the  coin  of  that  country  is  in  use,  as 
well  as  that  of  all  the  neighboring  states,  and  the  numbers  of 
money-changers  installed  at  short  intervals  upon  the  sidewalks, 
present  a  curious  spectacle. 

The  language  has  much  of  the  old  Roman  in  its  composition, 
and  one  is  struck  with  the  names  of  streets  and  persons  upon 
signboards  bearing  analogy  to  the  Italian.  The  dresses  of  the 
peasants  also  struck  me  as  resembling  those  worn  in  Italy.  The 
original  inhabitants  were  evidently  Romans.  Their  sympathies 
are,  however,  more  Russian,  as  they  profess  most  generally  the 
Greek  faith. 

The  river  is  quite  serpentine  in  its  course,  and  the  scenery  as 
we  advanced  became  more  varied,  groups  of  forest  trees  and  bet- 
ter cultivation  being  seen.  Turkish  villages  lie  along  the  left 
banks  with  their  mosques  and  minarets,  and  Wallachian  and 
Moldavian  villages  on  the  right. 

We  passed  Silistria,  celebrated  for  its  defence  by  the  Turks 
and  defeat  of  the  Russians  with  a  loss  of  twelve  thousand  men  ; 
landed  and  received  passengers  at  Mikopol,  and  at  the  strongly 
fortified  town  of  Widdin,  and  arrived  at  the  Eisernen  Thor,  or 
Iron  Gate,  where  the  low  stage  of  water  obliged  the  landing  of 
passengers,  and  we  took  wagons  for  the  distance  of  a  few  miles  and 
found  a  smaH  steamer  of  light  draught  of  water,  which  conveyed  us 
through  the  pass  between  high  mountains  of  the  boldest  and  most 
romantic  scenery,  a  miniature  Switzerland,  to  the  town  of  Orsova, 
the  frontier  line  of  Hungary.  Here  all  the  luggage  was  dis- 
charged and  carried  to  the  Austrian  Custom  House  for  examina- 
tion. Tobacco,  sealed  letters,  and  playing  cards  were  handled 
without  mercy,  and  some  of  the  passengers  had  to  pay  heavily. 

We  made  a  halt  at  Belgrade,  the  last  point  in  Turkey,  and  at 
Semlen  near  the  mouth  of  the  Save.  The  Hungarian  shores 
were  alive  with  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep  grazing. 

At  Widdin  we  took  on  board  its  Governor,  Ismet  Pacha,  and 
suite.  I  found  him  an  intelligent  and  liberal-minded  man.  Our 
sleeping  apartments  being  contiguous  we  had  frequent  interviews, 
and  I  found  he  entertained  a  high  opinion  of  American  charac- 
ter and  enterprise.  He  has  occupied  many  important  positions, 
and  tells  me  he  has  always  protected  the  Christians. 

An  unpleasant  affair  has  just  occurred  at  Belgrade  in  the 
attack  on  the  English  consul  by  a  Turkish  soldier ;  he  escaped 


THE   CROWN   OF  HUNGARY.  527 

without  serious  injury.  This,  however,  with  the  recent  mas- 
sacre at  Jiddah,  and  the  murder  of  the  Greeks  and  attack  of  the 
Christians  in  Candia,  have  produced  a  painful  impression 
throughout  Europe. 

The  voyage  up  the  Danube,  although  offering  much  of  inte- 
rest, is  rather  monotonous,  occupying  seven  days  from  Odessa 
to  Pesth,  in  Hungary,  where  the  railroad  can  be  taken  for 
Vienna.  The  distance  probably  does  not  equal  that  from 
New  Orleans  to  Louisville,  which  occupies  less  time,  and  our 
steamers  afford  better  accommodations  to  passengers  at  one-third 
the  cost. 

The  Danube  Steamship  Company  have  one  hundred  and  five 
steamers  in  all,  besides  barges  for  towing.  The  capital  employed 
is  very  large.  Last  year,  with  the  outlays  for  wharves,  new 
boats,  etc.,  they  were  deficient  over  a  million  of  guilders.  "With 
the  further  extension  of  the  railways,  and  the  probable  free 
navigation  for  all  flags,  the  success  formerly  obtained  is  ques- 
tionable, 

I  spent  a  couple  of  days  in  the  capital  city  of  Hungary,  which 
I  formerly  described  to  you.  It  is  a  fine,  well-built,  and  well- 
paved  city,  offering  many  objects  of  attraction.  Near  Orsova 
the  spot  was  pointed  out  to  us  where  the  crown  of  Hungary, 
secreted  as  it  is  said  by  Kossuth,  was  discovered.  A  small  chapel 
is  erected  on  the  spot. 

From  Pesth  I  took  the  railroad  to  this  celebrated  Austrian 
watering-place.  It  is  abundantly  supplied  with  hot  and  cold 
sulphur  baths,  and  swimming  schools  for  ladies  and  gentlemen. 
A  most  charming,  romantic,  and  picturesque  country  lies  about  it. 
The  town  has  a  population  of  four  thousand,  and  there  is  about 
an  equal  number  of  guests.  It  is  only  an  hour's  ride  by  rail 
from  Vienna,  and  consequently  much  frequented.  The  bath 
houses  are  well  built  structures,  with  comfortable  quarters  for 
families  or  private  individuals ;  the  ladies  and  gentlemen  have 
separate  entrances  and  dressing  rooms,  but  generally  bathe 
together  in  deep  square  baths,  surrounded  by  a  gallery  for  the 
nse  of  friends  or  spectators.  They  use  bathing  dresses,  which 
are  numbered.  It  is  rather  startling  at  first  when  one  enters,  to 
find  a  party  of  gentlemen  and  ladies  walking  about,  their  heads 
only  above  water,  and  engaged  in  cheerful  conversation.  Private 
baths  may  be  obtained,  but  the  masses  prefer  passing  the  hour 


528  VIENNA. 

in   society,    talking   over   the   affairs   of  the   day  and  making 
arrangements  for  excursions  and  dinner  parties. 


CXLIII. 

Baths  of  Toplitz,  Bohemia,  Aug.  21,  1858. 

From  the  baths  of  Baden,  in  Austria,  I  came  to  the  old 
capital,  Vienna,  which  I  found  dull  as  usual  at  this  season  of 
the  year,  as  all  who  can  get  into  the  country  make  their  escape. 
A  grand  work  of  improvement  is  in  progress  here.  The  old 
Bastei,  or  walls  which  fortified  and  surrounded  the  city,  are 
being  torn  away  and  levelled.  The  concentration  of  business 
and  residences  in  the  city  had  increased  the  average  occupancy 
of  houses  to  seventy  persons  each,"  or  double  the  number  of  any 
city  in  Europe,  and  the  want  of  room  for  extension  had  caused 
the  building  up  of  some  twenty-five  suburbs,  towns  and  villages. 
The  admission  of  light  and  air  will  lessen  the  mortality,  which 
was  in  greater  proportion  to  the  population  than  in  other  well- 
regulated  cities. 

We  came  from  Vienna  to  Prague  in  one  day,  by  rail.  Having 
visited  this  city  repeatedly,  and,  I  think,  described  the  same,  I 
will  not  hazard  a  repetition. 

Four  hours  by  rail  brought  me  to  this  celebrated  watering- 
place,  which  has  been  used  for  the  last  thousand  years.  The 
distance  now  traversed  by  the  locomotive  within  a  day,  cost  me 
more  than  five  days'  travel,  by  the  posts  of  the  country,  before 
these  conveyances  were  introduced. 

I  found  Toplitz  much  changed  since  my  last  visit,  years  ago. 
The  railroad  now  connects  it  with  Dresden,  the  Saxon  capital, 
within  a  few  hours.  The  town  has  about  six  thousand  inhabit- 
ants, and  the  number  of  guests  throughout  the  season  equals 
that  amount.  Besides  numerous  hotels,  almost  every  private 
house  famishes  lodgings,  and  has  a  particular  name,  which  one 
would  suppose  would  exhaust  the  whole  vocabulary  of  words. 
There  are  some  eighty  bathing  establishments  of  all  kinds, 
capable  of  accommodating  four  thousand  four  hundred  persons 
daily  with  warm  baths. 

The  many  romantic  walks  and  drives,  the  park  grounds  of 
the  chateau  of  Prince  Clary,  to  whom  the  buildings,  bath,  and 


TOPLITZ.  529 

spacious  garden  where  I  have  taken  up  my  abode  belong,  all 
afford  an  infinite  variety  for  the  stranger.  The  majority  of  the 
visitors,  however,  being  here  ostensibly  for  health,  there  is  less 
life  and  animation  than  at  the  watering-places  on  the  Rhine. 
The  character  of  the  guests  is  less  varied.  Russians,  Germans, 
and  Poles  predominate.  Only  a  few  French,  Italians,  English, 
or  Americans  are  here  this  season.  Indeed  the  baths  generally 
are  less  frequented  since  the  late  crisis,  and  the  complaint  is 
general  in  cities  as  well  as  places  of  summer  resort,  of  the  filling 
off  of  travel. 

In  the  Austrian  dominions  gaming  is  not  allowed,,  which  pay» 
all  the  expenses  of  the  great  bathing  establishments  in  the  little 
German  Duchies,  and  attracts  a  different  class  of  society..  Here 
a  tax  is  levied  upon  every  visitor,  called  Kur-  und  Musik  Taxe, 
which  I  hold  the  receipt  for  in»  Baden  and  here,  and  as  I  design 
visiting  Karlsbad  and  Marienbad,  I  shall  not  be  forgotten  by  the 
collector  or  by  the  Barmherzige  Briider,  who  presents  himself  as 
soon  as  one  gets  comfortably  quartered  in  his  hotel,  for  a 
subscription  for  the  infirm  poor  of  all  nations,,  who-  are  received' 
and  treated  gratis. 

We  rise  at  six  a.m.  ;  drink  of  the  mineral  waters  agreeably  to 
medical  advice  ;  walk  until  eight ;  partake  of  coffee,  milk,  and 
plain  bread,  without  the  accompaniment  of  fresh  butter ;  bathe 
at  ten ;  repose,  without  sleeping,  in  warm  clothing,  and  avoid 
stimulants,  fruits,  acids,  and  fat  or  greasy  food,  as  long  as  under 
treatment. 

This  place  is  indebted  to  Frederick  William  III.,,  king  of 
Prussia,  who  visited  it  annually  for  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  cen- 
tury, thereby  prolonging  his  life,  and  expended  yearly  about  the 
same  sum  our  President  receives  for  his  full  term.  Consequently 
the  citizens,  as  well  they  could,  have  erected  a  monument  upon 
what  is  called  King's  Hill,  to  the  memory  of  their  lamented 
guest. 

There  is,  as  usual,  a  theatre,  concert  rooms,  a  shooting  house 
for  target  exercise,  coffee  saloons,  and  music  in  the  open  air,  all 
calculated  to  sustain  the  drooping  spirits  of  sufferers.  I  find 
more  persons  in  little  wagons,  and  chairs  upon  wheels,  drawn  or 
pushed  about  by  servants,  than  at  other  baths.  I  have  met 
with  many  paralytic  cases,  but  the  waters  are  used  for  such  a 
variety  of  diseases,  that  it  would  be  difficult  to  enumerate  them, 

34 


630  COURT  NEWS. 

Many  finish  the  cure  here,  after  making  use  of  other  springs  in 
the  early  part  of  the  season.  It  is  interesting  to  hear  the  count- 
ing up  of  so  many  more  baths,  and  so  much  more  water  to  be 
drunk,  before  they  can  escape  the  exactions  of  the  physicians, 
and  can  set  their  faces  towards  home,  or  upon  intended  travels. 

For  now  nearly  a  month  the  friends  of  monarchy  have  been 
expecting  the  birth  of  a  prince  or  princess  to  the  crown  of 
Austria.  If  the  former,  one  hundred  and  one  guns  would 
announce  the  happy  event ;  but  if  the  latter,  the  news  will  fall 
upon  them  like  a  cold  shower  bath,  as  I  observed  two  years 
since  in  Milan,  where  the  authorities  had  the  great  cathedral 
decorations  prepared  for  the  occasion  ;  when  the  tidings  came  of 
another  female  heir,  twenty-one  guns  only  hailed  the  news,  and 
the  celebration  was  a  failure.  Amid  the  expectations  of  the 
interested,  I  notice  in  the  public  journal  that  the  empress's  health 
continues  good.  I  also  translate  literally  an  article  of  court 
news  from  the  same  journal,  as  follows : 

"  The  Little  Wagon  of  Princess  Oisella. — In  Laxenburg  the 
little  Princess  rides  often  in  a  little  wagon,  to  which  is  attached 
a  little  donkey.  The  governess  rides  upon  a  similar  animal  by 
her  side.  The  sight  is  extremely  delightful,  and  excites  the 
most  intense  interest  among  the  park  visitors,"  Comment  is 
unnecessary. 

The  birthday  of  the  emperor  has  just  been  celebrated  by  the 
firing  of  cannon,  ringing  of  bells,  high  mass  in  the  church,  and 
music  by  the  band,  all  of  which  it  is  incumbent  upon  the  offi- 
cials and  employees  to  perform.  In  order  to  be  conversant  with 
the  affair,  I  attended  the  dinner  given  in  commemoration,  but  it 
struck  me  that  it  went  off  with  little  enthusiasm,  and  without 
that  spontaneous  effusion  of  patriotism  so  marked  on  public 
occasions  in  our  country. 

Since  my  last  visit,  two  years  since,  I  find  the  currency  some- 
what better.  The  shinplasters  for  ten  kreutzers,  or  eight  cents, 
are  supplanted  by  an  alloy,  and  the  national  bank,  on  the  13th 
of  October,  will  make  an  effort  to  resume  specie  payments.  It 
has  three  hundred  and  eighty  millions  of  paper  guilders  afloat, 
equal  to  one  hundred  and  ninety  millions  of  dollars.  The  govern- 
ment of  Austria  has  a  debt  of  two  billions  of  guilders,  or  one 
billion  dollars,  and  it  is  every  year  increasing  the  debt.  The 
interest  is  equal  to  fifty  millions  of  dollars  yearly.     What  would 


KARLSBAD.  531 

we  tliink  in  our  country  of  such  a  load  upon  its  shoulders? 
The  resources  of  the  country,  it  is  true,  are  great ;  but  the  whole 
territory  does  not  equal  in  superficial  area  the  state  of  Texas. 
Every  source  of  income  is  squeezed  and  pressed  out,  while  the 
farm  laborer  obtains  only  twenty-four  kreutzers,  or  twenty  cents 
per  day,  not  enough  to  keep  body  and  soul  together. 


CXLIV. 

Marienbad,  Bohemia,  August  29,  1858. 

Karlsbad  lies  thirteen  hundred  and  seventy  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  in  a  deep  narrow  valley  between  steep  projecting 
granite  rocks  and  hills,  upon  the  margin  of  a  little  serpentine 
stream,  and  from  the  many  points  of  look-out  reached  by  circui- 
tous paths,  gives  enchanting  views  and  panoramas.  Upon  one 
of  the  ragged  jutting  points  stands  a  bronze  deer,  indicating  the 
Hirschsprung.  As  the  story  goes,  the  discoverer  of  the  Sprudel, 
or  hot  bubbling  spring,  which  throws  out  forty-five  buckets  of 
water  per  minute,  was  the  Emperor  Karl  the  Fourth,  in  the  year 
1379,  while  in  pursuit  of  a  deer,  which  leaped  over  the  precipice, 
pursued  by  the  dogs,  and  when  found  was  in  a  cooked  condition 
in  the  boiling  element. 

The  town  has  about  three  thousand  inhabitants,  and  the 
Kurliste  calls  for  about  four  thousand  visitors  during  the  season. 
What  is  called  the  wiese,  or  meadow,  is  formed  of  two  long  rows 
of  houses  built  against  the  rocks  fronting  on  the  little  stream 
Tepel,  spanned  by  bridges,  promenades  bordered  with  shade 
trees,  a  quantity  of  little  shops  filled  with  wares  and  ornaments 
of  every  variety,  offering  a  lounge  for  the  ladies.  Both  sexes  sit 
in  the  open  air  and  take  coffee  and  refreshments,  and  the  parties 
are  more  thrown  together,  making  it  more  like  a  family  circle 
than  in  many  other  bathing  places. 

The  different  springs  are  so  arranged  with  galleries  as  to  pro- 
tect from  the  sun  and  rainy  weather.  The  walks  and  ascents  are 
of  the  most  wild  and  romantic  character.  Savage  scenery  and 
deep  woods  of  thick  forest  trees,  affording  exercise  and  protect- 
ing from  heat,  abound.  Altogether  the  natural  attractions  are 
almost  unsurpassed  on  the  continent.  Baden-Baden  and  Karls- 
bad are  two  of  the  watering-places  of  Europe,  where  within  a 


632  MAEIENBAD. 

few  minutes'  time  one  may  escape  the  noise  and  excitement  of  the 
multitude,  and  find  himself  solitary  and  alone,  admiring  the 
works  of  nature. 

The  heat  of  the  spring  is  165°  Fahrenheit.  Objects  encrusted 
with  the  deposit  of  this  water  are  polished  and  prepared  in 
diflfei'ent  forms,  the  colors  resembling  the  lava  of  Vesuvius,  and 
are  quite  an  article  of  commerce.  Here  is  seen  the  crucifix  upon 
Kreuz  Berg.  Now  one  stumbles  upon  a  monument  to  the 
memory  of  a  benefactor  who  has  built  a  new  walk,  or  extended 
balconies  or  iron  railings ;  then  07ie  imagines,  in  a  narrow  defile 
in  the  rocks,  he  is  entering  a  graveyard,  with  slabs  to  the 
memory  of  the  deceased,  but  on  reading  the  engravings  in 
different  languages,  he  finds  they  are  tributes  and  songs  of  praise 
from  invalids  to  the  waters  for  restored  health. 

After  a  halt  of  a  few  days  at  this  agreeable  place,  I  proceeded 
to  Marienbad.  It  is  also  a  lovely  spot,  with  newer  arrangements 
than  Karlsbad,  better  bath  houses,  and  larger  and  better  hotels. 
It  lies  one  thousand  nine  hundred  and  thirty-two  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  North  Sea,  and  contains  only  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty  private  houses.  Nearly  six  hundred  thousand  jugs  of  this 
water  are  sent  out,  and  it  finds  its  way  to  all  parts  of  Europe. 
The  entire  spring  grounds  form  an  English  park,  with  trout 
brooks  running  through,  and  are  particularly  adapted  for  those 
who  wish  to  escape  the  bustle  of  the  world  to  take  care  of  their 
health  while  here  in  this  quiet  valley  surrounded  by  hills  and 
pleasant  walks.  Nature  and  art  together  offer  everything  for 
the  recovery  of  the  lost  blessing. 

The  sources  here,  as  well  as  at  Karlsbad,  are  various,  and  the 
springs  are  built  over.  The  Krews  Brunnen  has  a  colonnade  of 
seventy-two  Ionic  columns,  with  a  long  hall  connecting  for  bad 
weather.  Before  the  same  is  the  promenade,  under  the  shade  of 
lofty  trees,  with  music  morning  and  evening.  Every  guest  has 
his  vari-colored  Bohemian  glass,  and  takes  his  turn  at  the  foun- 
tain of  health,  at  intervals  of  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  with  a  walk  in 
the  meantime. 

A  bright  Sunday  morning  at  Karlsbad  announced  the  long 
expected  birth  of  an  heiF  to  the  Hapsburg  dynasty.  The 
bulletins  gave  the  information  that  it  was  a  crown  prince,  and 
accordingly  a  hundred  and  one  guns  were  fired,  all  the  church 
bells  were  rung,  a  Te  Deum  was  performed,  and  the  ofiicers. 


IMPORTANCE   OF   AMERICA.  533 

military  and  civil,  with  their  trappings  and  orders,  paraded 
through  the  streets  much  to  the  edification  of  the  peasants,  in  their 
picturesque  costumes,  who  were  attracted  to  the  town  by  the 
holiday.  At  night  the  hills  were  illuminated  with  the  lights 
representing  the  double-headed  eagle,  with  the  letters  F.  J.,  a 
twinkling  star,  and  E.,  signifying  Francis  Joseph  and  Elizabeth, 

The  great  achievement  of  the  submarine  telegraph  strikes  all 
with  amazement,  and  the  masses  begin  to  comprehend  that 
America  is  considerable  of  a  country.  The  peasants  have  heard 
that  grain  in  our  country  is  sowed,  harvested,  threshed,  and 
cleaned  by  machines,  instead  of  manual  labor,  and  the  inquiry 
is,  how  is  it  possible  ? 

Our  failure  in  commercial  affairs,  through  extended  enterprise, 
improvements,  and  fast  living,  made  Europe  feel  our  importance, 
and  from  which  it  still  suffers.  We  retrenched,  stopped  buying 
goods,  and  economized  in  public  and  private  outlays,  which  can- 
not be  done  here  with  their  standing  armies  and  expensive  court 
charges ;  and  now  I  remark  our  banks  are  loaded  down  with 
specie,  new  gold  discoveries  are  added  to  the  stock,  and  only 
the  movement  of  commerce  is  needed  to  put  the  wheels  again  in 
motion. 

What  would  our  farmers  say  if  every  head  of  cattle  sold,  paid 
a  tax  of  two  dollars  for  slaughtering  privilege,  and  smaller  ani- 
mals in  proportion ;  and  every  sale  of  houses  and  land  from  five 
to  ten  per  cent,  to  the  crown. 

Hotelkeepers  and  owners  of  private  houses,  for  neglect  in 
announcing  to  the  police  the  harboring  a  friend  or  stranger  over 
night,  have  to  pay  from  five  to  ten  guilders. 


CXLV. 

Copenhagen,  Denmark,  Sept.  12,  1858. 
I  HAD  not  the  remotest  idea  of  revisiting  this  northern  region 
when  I  wrote  you  last ;  but  such  are  the  extraordinary  facilities 
of  locomotion  in  this  age,  that  one  finds  himself  within  a  few 
days  transported  hundreds  and  thousands  of  miles.  I  was  on 
my  way  to  Swinemunde,  on  the  Baltic,  for  sea  bathing,  when  I 
heard  that  my  old  friend  Captain  Irminger,  with  whom  I  visited 
Caraccas,  La  Guayra,  and  Porto  Cabello  in  Venezuela,  and  the 


53-i  TUEF   BATHS. 

Island  of  Curagoa,  and  who  landed  me  on  tlie  small  island  of 
Beat],  south  of  Hajti,  many  years  since,  from  the  brig-of-wai 
Ornen,  was  now  residing  in  this  city  as  admiral  of  the  Danish 
fleet,  and  I  felt  that  I  could  not  resist  the  desire  of  seeing  him 
again. 

I  can  scarcely  realize  the  fact  that  at  this  time  last  year  I  had 
just  returned  home  for  a  visit,  and  have  since  passed  over  so 
much  ground  in  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa.  It  seems  but  yester- 
day that  I  was  climbing  the  mountains  of  Circassia,  or  travelling 
rapidly  over  the  steppes  of  Southern  Eussia,  or  wandering 
through  the  ruins  of  Sebastopol,  passing  in  review  within  the 
year  Arabs,  Egyptians,  Turks,  Circassians,  Greorgians,  Greeks, 
Hungarians,  Moldavians,  and  a  host  of  other  races ;  but  when  I 
reflect  that  space  is  now  almost  annihilated,  I  must  be  reconciled 
to  the  fact,  and  turn  my  attention  to  the  quiet  and  peaceful 
Pane,  and  mark  the  changes,  if  any,  since  I  saw  him  for  the  first 
time. 

From  Marienbad  I  came  twenty  miles  to  Franzensbad,  not 
remarkable  for  its  position,  but  somewhat  for  the  healing  quali- 
ties of  its  waters,  of  which  about  two  hundred  thousand  jugs  are 
sent  away,  and  about  two  hundred  invalids  visit  it  annually. 

What  struck  me  as  most  singular  are  the  Schlambader,  or 
Turf  Baths,  charged  with  alkali,  salt,  and  iron.  One  large  bath 
house  is  adapted  to  this  use.  A  number  of  men  are  employed 
digging  and  wheeling  in  turf,  which  is  broken  and  ground  in  a 
mill,  not  unlike  the  breaking  of  clay  for  brickmaking.  A  steam 
engine  of  sixteen  horse  power  is  employed  for  this  use,  as  also 
for  pumping  and  for  the  heating  of  the  water  reservoirs.  The 
bath  tubs  are  mounted  on  wheels,  filled  with  the  black  mixture, 
like  thick  mud,  and  rolled  through  the  inner  court-yard  and  in 
the  outer  door  of  the  bath  rooms.  The  patient  takes  his  bath 
and  then  jumps  into  another  of  equally  hot  water,  for  washing 
and  cleansing  himself.  The  cost  of  such  a  bath  is  only  half  a 
dollar.  They  are  said  to  be  extremely  strengthening  after  the 
use  of  other  baths  and  water  drinking,  and  particularly  useful  in 
rheumatic  and  paralytic  affections.  A  couple  of  days  was  quite 
sufficient  to  familiarize  one's  self  with  the  springs,  grounds, 
advantages,  and  disadvantages  of  the  locality. 

A  ride  of  thirty-five  miles  by  post,  and  one  bids  adieu  to 
Bohemia,  in  Austria,  and  strikes  the  frontier  of  Saxony  on  the 


LEiPZia.  535 

railroad  to  Leipzig,  a  city  celebrated  for  its  fairs.  It  has  seventy 
thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  surrounded  with  pretty  garden 
suburbs.  Among  the  number  is  Gerhard's,  where  is  the  monu- 
ment to  Prince  Poniatowski,  who  lost  his  life  in  jumping  his 
horse  across  the  little  stream  Elster,  which  runs  through  the  city. 
This  was  at  the  famous  battle  of  Leipzig,  of  1813. 

I  arrived  on  a  Saturday  evening.  The  next  morning  service 
commenced  in  the  Protestant  churches  at  half-past  eight,  and 
continued  till  half-past  ten.  Numerous  congregations  attended, 
and  listened  to  earnest,  faithful  preaching.  During  the  exercises 
all  places  of  entertainment  are  closed,  but  opened  afterwards  for 
necessary  purposes. 

The  beautiful  walks  of  Rosenthal,  and  oak  woods,  that 
extended  to  the  village  of  Gohlis  where  Schiller  wrote  his  Don 
Carlos,  were  fully  occupied  with  promenaders  after  dinner,  and 
the  many  public  gardens  filled  witli  the  multitudes  partaking  of 
their  coffee  and  lager  beer,  the  men  smoking  their  pipes  and 
cigars,  women  embroidering  and  listening  to  the  bands  of  music, 
and  children  with  their  nurses  amusing  themselves  upon  the 
grass.  All  seemed  happy  and  quiet,  and  as  the  evening 
approached  some  wended  their  way  to  the  summer  theatre,  in 
an  open  garden,  others  to  their  homes.  Such  are  the  customs, 
and  such  the  force  of  education  even  in  the  land  of  Luther's 
reformation. 

I  made  a  halt  of  two  days  at  Leipzig  by  way  of  reviving  my 
recollections,  and  spent  a  day  at  Halle,  on  the  river  Saale,  noted 
for  its  university — a  very  old  city,  of  thirty  thousand  inhabitants, 
offering  nothing  of  particular  interest.  The  railroad  passes 
through  Gotha,  Dessau,  and  Wittenburg,  all  of  which  places  I  had 
formerly  seen  in  detail  before  this  mode  of  conveyance  existed 
here.  As  I  partook  of  some  refreshment  at  Wittenburg,  which 
I  once  described  to  you,  I  inquired  if  the  old  town  was  as  much 
a  place  of  pilgrimage  as  formerly.  The  reply  was  to  the  con- 
trary, since  the  railroad  passed  through  the  people  had  no  time 
to  stop.  It  had  once  cost  me  a  long  journey  to  visit  the  houses 
where  Luther  and  Melancthon  lived  and  wrote,  and  where  they 
lie  buried. 

I  also  looked  in  upon  friends  at  Berlin,  whom  I  had  left 
eighteen  months  before,  a  picnic  party  in  the  country  being  the 
result,  and  made  a  visit  to  the  grounds  of  Baron  Humboldt 


636  THE    CASTLE   OF   KRONBURG. 

wliere  the  remains    of    the   illustrious   traveller's  parents   are 
entombed. 

Governor  Wright  drove  us  to  Charlottenburg,  the  royal  resi 
dence.  At  the  opera  in  the  evening  the  young  crown  prince  of 
Prussia  was  present  with  his  new  bride,  young  Victoria.  A 
sojourn  of  three  days  in  a  city  which  I  had  visited  so  repeatedly, 
and  in  which  I  had  almost  gained  a  residence,  was  brief,  but  I 
was  en  route  for  the  salt  breezes  of  the  sea,  and  two  days  later 
found  myself  walking  ashore  from  the  good  steamer  Geiser  in 
the  well  known  port  of  Copenhagen. 

The  admiral  accompanied  me  up  the  coast  by  steamer  some 
thirty  miles  to  Ilelsingsen,  and  visited  the  famous  old  castle  of 
Kronburg  and  its  fortifications,  whose  thirty-six  pounders  reach 
the  Swedish  coast  opposite,  but  as  the  Sound  dues  are  now  com- 
promised with  all  foreign  powers,  the  neat  and  formerly 
flourishing  town  looks  cheerless.  The  neighboring  bathing 
place,  Marienburg,  if  once  brought  into  notice,  would  help  to 
revive  it. 

Omitting  the  Dardanelles,  few  straits  are  so  much  used  by  ves- 
sels as  this  passage.  A  strong  north  wind  was  bringing  in  many 
ships,  while  almost  an  entire  fleet  were  at  anchor  waiting  to  get 
out. 

The  settlement  of  this  knotty  Sound  question  is  a  source  of 
gratification  to  all  ship  navigators,  and  the  result,  I  trust,  will  be 
quite  as  advantageous  for  Denmark. 

A  ride  of  twenty-two  miles  from  the  city  to  the  castle  of  Frc- 
dericksborg,  with  the  visit  to  the  beautiful  grounds  and  the  inte- 
rior of  the  immense  edifice,  with  its  richly  decorated  saloons, 
halls,  church,  and  picture  galleries,  and  return,  occupied  a  full 
day,  even  with  fast  horses  and  equi^Dages  from  the  royal 
stables. 

My  friend  ranks  as  chamberlain  to  the  king,  and  presented  me 
to  his  majesty,  whom  we  found  with  his  master  of  ceremonies  on 
a  fishing  excursion.  He  is  passionately  fond  of  angling,  and  had 
already  caught  sufficient  for  a  good  dinner,  which  he  had  served  in 
a  little  summer-house,  upon  a  small  island  in  the  lake.  He  received 
me  cordially,  and  we  had  a  long  chat  in  French  together,  and  he 
assured  me  I  should  always  be  welcome  in  Denmark.  I  enjoyed 
a  lunch  in  the  palace,  a  stroll  in  the  flower  and  fruit  gardens,  and 
through  the  extended  park,  and  immense  and  majestic  Black 


COPENHAGEN".  537 

Forest,  a  glance  over  the  beautiful  lakes  and  picturesque  sheets 
of  water,  and  the  return  drive  to  town,  and  the  setting  sun  found 
me  at  a  family  dinner  with  one  with  whom  I  had  passed  through 
many  interesting  scenes  nine  years  before. 


CXLYI. 

SwiNEMUXDE,  Prussia,  Sept.  20,  1858. 

In  my  last  communication  from  Denmark,  space  did  not  per- 
mit a  description  of  many  objects  of  attraction  in  and  about 
Copenhagen,  which  might  afford  pleasure  and  information  to  the 
tourists,  most  of  whom,  however,  wend  their  way  to  the  south 
of  Europe. 

The  celebrated  Danish  sculptor,  Thorwaldsen,  left  his  fortune 
for  the  founding  of  a  museum,  in  the  court  of  which  repose  his 
remains,  surrounded  by  the  models  and  many  of  the  originals  of 
all  his  great  works  of  art.  The  government  collections  of  anti- 
quity, from  the  earliest  occupation  of  the  country,  when  hatchets 
and  weapons  of  stone  were  only  known,  marking  the  various 
periods  of  civilization,  and  improvements  from  wood  and  stone 
to  iron  and  steel,  are  of  great  interest. 

The  visitor  can  form  a  pretty  accurate  idea  of  Iceland,  Lap- 
land, and  Greenland  life  from  the  many  objects  of  costume,  boats, 
sledges  drawn  by  dogs,  &c.,  in  use  in  those  countries.  The 
suburbs  of  the  city  abound  with  beautiful  gardens,  and  places  of 
public  resort  for  concerts,  summer  theatres,  and  amusements  for 
the  masses,  who  flock  thither  on  festival  occasions.  The  now  gay 
appearance  of  the  cit}^,  and  the  air  of  comfort  among  the  people, 
struck  me  favorably,  having  seen  them  first  during  the  Schleswig- 
Holstein  war,  under  disadvantageous  circumstances. 

By  steamer  I  came  to  this  place,  from  which  I  write,  lying 
upon  the  island  of  Usedom,  about  fifty  miles  from  Stettin,  upon 
the  river  Oder.  It  is  a  harbor,  bath,  and  garrison  city  of  five 
thousand  inhabitants. 

The  abolition  of  the  Sound  duties  has  proved  of  great  advan- 
tage to  Stettin,  to  this  place,  and  indeed  to  all  the  Prussian  ports 
of  the  Baltic.  They  should  thank  our  government  for  the  initia- 
tive measures  in  the  matter.  Denmark  felt  aggrieved,  without 
doubt,  at  our  obstinacy,  but  eventually  it  will  probably  be  for  hei 


538  SWIXEMUND. 

interest,  as  the  revenue  fund,  the  respective  sums  contributed  hy 
different  powers,  will  perhaps  quite  equal  the  former  receipts; 
particularly  after  passing  through  the  hands  of  many  office- 
holders. 

The  communication  daily  between  this  place  and  Stettin,  up 
the  river,  the  departure  and  arrival  of  sailing  vessels,  steamers 
for  Sweden,  Denmark,  and  Russia,  gives  an  additional  interest 
to  bath  guests,  whose  numbers  amount  to  perhaps  a  thousand  at 
some  periods  of  the  season.  The  bath-houses  for  both  sexes  lie 
about  a  mile  from  the  town,  upon  a  beautiful  sandy  beach,  and 
are  reached  by  shady  walks  for  those  on  foot,  or  by  good 
carriage  roads.  The  excursions  are  by  steamer  to  the  island  of 
Rugen ;  by  carriage  to  another  bath  called  Herrings  Dorf, 
prettily  situated  among  leafy  groves,  with  a  delightful  and  invi- 
gorating salt  atmosphere.  A  village  of  fishermen  is  found  in 
the  vicinity,  who  furnish  a  good  supply  of  the  eatables  of  the 
briny  sea.  The  weather  is  still  mild,  the  water  sufficiently 
"warm,  and  the  baths  are  considered  serviceable  until  the  first 
of  next  month.  It  being  however  late,  the  majority  of  the 
guests  have  departed,  leaving  the  theatre  players  with  a  light 
audience,  and  the  weekly  balls  thinly  attended.  The  house 
owners  can  repose  for  the  winter  upon  the  summer  harvest, 
until  spring,  when  the  whitewashing,  painting,  and  little  flower 
gardens  must  be  looked  after,  and  made  as  attractive  as  possible, 
to  the  eye  of  the  tenant. 

The  new  fortifications  here  are  of  remarkable  strength  and 
beauty,  effectually  protecting  the  narrow  entrance  to  the  harbor. 
The  brick  lighthouse,  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  ascended  by 
a  spiral  staircase  of  three  hundred  steps,  is  provided  with  the 
French  Reflectors,  and  can  be  seen  for  many  miles.  A  view 
from  the  top  over  the  sea,  the  river,  and  the  surrounding 
country,  well  repays  the  clim.ber.  Our  worthy  German  vice- 
consul,  Herr  Krouse,  and  his  excellent  family,  have  offered 
civilities  tending  to  make  my  sojourn  very  agTeeable.  The  soil 
is  sandy,  the  streets  unpaved,  and  in  some  respects  I  am  reminded 
of  Cape  May ;  but  an  excursion  a  few  miles  brings  one  to  dense 
pine  forests,  then  to  fertile  pasture  fields,  where  fine  crops  of  hay 
have  been  gathered ;  then  come  turf  meadows,  with  inex- 
haustible quantities  of  fuel,  which,  strange  to  say,  after  being 
dug  over  a  few  years  is  found  to  be  renewed.     These  belong  to 


FEMALE   LABOR.  539 

the  Crown,  that  leases  them  out  for  a  term,  for  extracting  or 
cutting,  and  derives  a  large  revenue  therefrom.  Then  we  ascend 
a  high  hill  covered  with  beech  trees,  affording  an  extensive  and 
enchanting  view  of  the  neighboring  country.  At  one  point 
some  four  thousand  acres  of  land  are  covered  with  water,  or 
shallow  lake,  which  is  in  process  of  being  reclaimed,  or  pumped  out, 
after  the  system  of  Holland.  Altogether,  the  country  has  attrac- 
tions for  one  accustomed  to  sights  where  nature  is  more  lavish 
of  her  gifts ;  but  those  from  the  flat  lands  of  the  north  of 
the  kingdom,  who  smell  salt  water  for  the  first  time,  are  quite  in 
raptures,  and  chant  the  praises  of  the  baths  of  Prussia's  most 
prominent  watering-place. 

On  inquiry  I  find  the  laboring  classes  are  better  paid  here,  as 
is  the  case  in  most  seaports,  than  they  are  in  the  interior.  In 
Denmark  the  condition  of  that  class  seems  easier,  and  there  are 
less  dispositions  to  emigrate.  The  female  portion  of  some  parts 
of  Germany  are  the  most  entitled  to  sympathy.  They  are  made 
slaves  and  beasts  of  burden,  and  ill  paid  for  their  services. 
Even  in  hotels  where  the  wirt,  or  master,  taxes  in  his  bill  eight 
silben  groschen  (or  twenty  cents  per  day)  for  service,  not  includ- 
ing the  porter  or  hoois^  the  poor  domestics  get  in  many  cases 
only  twenty-four  thalers  (or  eighteen  dollars)  per  year,  and 
where  the  good  will  of  the  traveller  makes  a  donation  in  many 
cases  it  is  extorted  from  them  under  penalty  of  dismissal. 
More  would  emigrate  if  they  had  the  means  to  get  away,  and 
would  be  industrious  and  valuable  citizens  in  any  country. 
The  tender  feelings  of  Europe,  through  incendiary  works  and 
pamphlets,  have  been  so  excited  that,  as  Americans,  we  are 
called  upon  to  rebut  the  charges  of  inconsistency  of  slave-hold- 
ing under  our  republican  system,  as  if  we  at  the  north  were 
responsible  for  the  south,  and  can  only  reply  that  millions  on 
the  continent  might  well  envy  the  well-fed  negroes  upon  south- 
ern plantations. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  our  laws  are  so  lax  in  the  punish- 
ment of  crime,  and  that  so  many  high-handed  examples  of 
public  outrage  occur,  all  of  which  are  portrayed  in  glowing 
colors  in  the  European  journals. 


540  POSEN. 


CXLVII. 

Frankfort-on-the-Oder,  Prussia,  Oct.  15,  1858. 

Having  formerly  seen  Austrian  and  Eussian  Poland,  whose 
capitals  are  Cracow  and  Warsaw,  I  was  induced  to  make  the 
detour  on  my  route  from  Dantzic  to  look  in  upon  Posen,  the 
chief  city  of  Prussian  Poland,  which  by  rail  was  soon  accom- 
plished. 

Among  the  forty-five  thousand  inhabitants  ten  thousand  are 
Jews.  I  came  in  on  Saturday,  their  Sabbath  da}^,  and  on  a 
festival  occasion,  and  thus  had  a  good  opportunity  of  seeing  the 
multitude,  as  also  the  wealthier  classes,  upon  the  promenade,  and 
the  many  pretty  faces  of  the  Hebrew  women.  They  have  recently 
erected  a  splendid  synagogue,  as  is  the  case  in  Frankfort-on- 
the  Maine,  Pesth,  in  Hungary,  and  other  places.  The  Jews,  as  a 
people,  are  acquiring  wealth  and  importance,  and  making 
advances  in  science.  Had  they  the  same  privileges  enjoyed 
in  our  country,  the  distinction  between  the  races  would  not 
be  so  marked. 

Among  the  twenty-three  churches  of  the  city,  a  number  of 
which  I  visited  on  the  Sunday,  the  newly  rebuilt  Dome  of  the 
thirteenth  century  contains  the  Golden  Chapel,  in  which  are  placed 
the  bronze  gilt  statues  of  two  Polish  kings  there  interred.  High 
mass  was  being  celebrated  in  the  Latin  and  Polish  tongues  when 
I  visited  it.  The  original  Bauer,  or  peasant  costume  of  th^e 
country  was  well  represented.  It  is  picturesque  but  somewhat 
ridiculous,  fashion's  innovations  not  having  yet  reached  it. 

In  the  Stanislaus  Church,  which  is  of  strict  Italian  architecture, 
with  its  marble  statues  of  saints,  illuminated  glass  windows,  altars, 
pulpit  decorations  and  paintings,  I  could  fancy  myself  in  the 
Pope's  dominions. 

The  Poles  are  decided  Romanists,  and  cannot  be  converted 
readily  by.  the  Russians  to  the  Greek  faith,  or  by  the  Prussians  to 
the  Evangelical.  The  Prussian  or  German  population  is  about 
one -third  professing  the  Protestant  and  reformed  religion.  The 
balance  are  Israelites  and  Catholic  Poles. 

The  city  is  fortified  in  the  strongest  manner,  with  walls,  bat- 
teries, gates,  and  trenches,  throughout  the  entire  circumference, 
and  contains   immense   barracks  for  the  soldiery,  stables   and 


DIRSCHAU.  541 

magazines  of  supplies  for  quite  an  army,  if  required.     Several 
thousand  troops  are  here  stationed. 

One  sees  no  prospect  for  the  regeneration  of  Poland.  To 
occupy  a  position  under  the  government  the  young  must  acquire 
the  German  language,  notwithstanding  their  prejudice  and  hate 
of  their  subduers.  They  are  divided  up  between  three  powers, 
and  get  little  sympathy  from  the  great  nations  they  looked 
towards  for  relief.  Little  by  little  their  identity  will  be  lost,  and 
they  will  become  part  and  ^^arcel  of  the  governments  which 
deprived  them  of  their  liberties. 

When  I  look  upon  and  examine  the  bulwarks  of  defence  newly 
erected,  and  in  progress  of  erection,  at  Swinemunde,  Stettin, 
Konigsberg,  here,  and  at  Custrin,  I  am  not  surprised  that  from 
one-third  to  one-half  of  the  whole  revenue  of  Prussia  is  employed 
in  the  army  department.  These  are  besides  only  a  small  portion. 
Look  at  the  immense  establishment  of  Ehrenbreitstein,  the  Gib- 
raltar of  the  Rhine  ;  at  the  fortress  of  Mayence,  and  the  many 
others  on  the  frontiers.  How  thankful  should  we  be  as  a  people 
that  we  are  not  obliged  to  tax  every  article  of  food  put  into  our 
mouths,  every  garment  we  wear,  and  abridge  all  pursuits  and 
pleasures  to  sustain  masses  of  soldiers  and  hordes  of  officers  for 
defence  against  our  sister  states,  thereby  employing  the  youngest 
and  most  active  of  our  youth,  incapacitating  them  for  other  pur- 
suits, and  demoralizing  the  society  of  wives  and  daughters. 

Dirschau,  where  the  road  branches  off  for  Dantzic,  has  one  of 
the  finest  Gothic  station  houses  which  I  have  seen  in  the  north 
of  Europe.  The  line  belongs  to  the  government,  and  the  iron 
bridges  over  the  river  Weichsel  or  Vistula'at  that  place,  and  over 
the  Nogat  at  Marienberg,  in  connexion  with  the  old  castle,  for- 
merly the  seat  of  the  grand  masters  of  the  German  Order  of 
Knights,  altogether  attract  many  visitors.  The  old  town  in 
itself,  for  its  antiquitj',  is  worth  a  visit,  but  the  castle  is  of  much 
interest  to  Germans.  It  was  built  in  the  thirteenth  and  fourteenth 
century,  during  the  conquest  of  the  country,  and  rebuilt  by  the 
government  from  1819  to  1820.  The  saloons  are  beautifully 
arched,  and  one  of  them  is  sustained  by  a  single  column  gracefully 
supporting  its  burden  not  unlike  the  branches  of  the  palm  tree. 
A  cannon  ball  still  sticks  in  the  wall,  thrown  by  the  besieging 
Poles,  from  which  the  centre  pillar  barely  escaped. 

The  portraits  of  the  Knights,  with  their  names  and  coats  of 


542  FRANKFORT-ON-THE-ODER. 

arms,  were,  for  me,  in  some  respects  souvenirs  of  the  original 
Knights  of  St.  John,  from  which  the  order  sprang,  and  of  whose 
monuments  I  found  so  many  in  the  islands  of  Khodes  and  Malta. 
The  antique  figures,  weapons,  and  coats  of  mail  are  to  the  people 
very  curious. 

Frankfort-on-the-Oder  is  in  steam  communication  with  Stettin. 
It  is  a  dull  city  for  a  population  of  thirty  thousand  persons, 
although  active  during  its  four  annual  fairs,  when  it  overflows 
with  purchasers  and  sellers  from  all  parts  of  German3^  Many 
of  its  warehouses  are  afterwards  closed  until  the  season  returns, 
which  gives  it  a  melancholy  appearance.  Its  suburbs  and  gar- 
dens, however,  are  pretty,  as  indeed  they  generally  are  in  Grer- 
many,  and  the  people  have  great  taste  for  flowers  and  plants,  as 
is  noticed  in  the  windows  of  the  humblest  village  cottage. 

I  had  passed  through  here  twice  before,  but  now  I  hold  up  for 
a  rest,  for  which  this  city  is  well  adapted,  where  nothing  remark- 
able demands  attention.  It  is  a  mistaken  notion  that  the  tourist 
lives  a  life  of  pleasure  and  indolence ;  on  the  contrar}^,  untiring 
labor,  application,  and  energy  are  required  to  enable  him  to  profit 
by  his  travels.  One  is  rejoiced  at  times  to  get  to  some  quiet 
spot  where  no  obligation  is  felt  to  take  advantage  of  the  sojourn, 
and  have  time  for  repose  and  to  review  the  ground  passed  over. 

The  government  is  building  new  salt  stores  here  upon  the  river 
bank,  that  article  being  a  monopoly.  Strolling  along  I  observed 
some  sixty  men  employed  driving  piles  for  the  foundation,  with 
only  two  drivers.  I  counted  thirty  men,  each  with  cord  in  hand, 
a  wooden  handle  thereto  attached,  and  all  fastened  to  the  main 
rope.  At  a  given  signal  up  went  the  hammer,  and  down  it  fell 
upon  the  head  of  the  pile.  I  was  so  astonished  at  the  loss  of 
power  I  asked  the  overseer  why  he  did  not  use  a  machine,  and 
that  with  six  men  I  could  accomplish  more  work  than  with  his 
sixty.  He  answered  they  had  none.  I  observed  he  would  save 
the  cost  in  a  few  days.  Then  an  officer  remarked  that  machines 
were  a  great  curse,  as  they  deprived  the  laborer  of  emploj'-ment. 
The  other  dissented  thereto,  and  added  that  they  could  not  get 
men  enough  even  at  ten  silben  groschen  (or  twenty-five  cents)  per 
day.  Think  of  that,  where  coffee  is  from  thirty  to  forty  cents  per 
pound,  sugar  fifteen  cents,  and  meats  and  rents  in  proportion,  and 
tell  me  how  the  poor  man  lives ! 

A  few  days  ago  I  met  at  a  station  an  under  forester  in  crown 


SCHWERIN".  543 

employ,  with  bis  wife  and  four  children.  He  was  being  trans- 
ferred from  one  domain  to  another.  I  asked  him  how  much 
salary  he  bad.  He  replied,  ten  thalers  per  month,  or  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  per  year,  equal  to  ninety  dollars  of  our  money. 
I  inquired,  "  How  can  you  get  through  the  year  ?"  The  reply 
was,  "  I  must ;  rye  bread  is  now  cheaper,  and  water  costs 
nothing."  A  young  girl  was  also  waiting  with  a  free  passage 
ticket  from  her  brother  in  America,  via  Hamburg  to  New  York. 
Her  position  was  evidently  envied. 


CXLVIII. 


Hamburg,  Germany,  Nov.  5,  1858, 
In  the  extreme  north  of  Germany  lies  the  grand  duchy  of 
Mecklenberg,  a  counti-y  less  visited  by  travellers  than  most 
other  parts  of  the  Vaterland,  whose  institutions  are  peculiar  to 
itself,  and  which  is  not  included  in  the  Zollverein,  or  Tariff 
Union.  As  it  was  the  last  of  the  German  States  I  had  not  seen, 
I  was  desirous  of  visiting  it.  The  lines  of  railroad  from  Frank- 
fort-on-the-Oder,  where  I  last  wrote  you,  conveyed  me  to 
Schwerin,  the  capital  of  the  Duchy. 

It  has  a  population  of  twenty  thousand,  and  can  boast  of  one 
of  the  finest  schloss,  or  palaces  in  Deutschland.  Wonders  never 
cease.  I  was  astonished  to  find  this  new  Gothic  edifice,  which 
stands  upon  a  small  island,  and  upon  which  some  millions  have 
been  expended,  and  could  only  wonder  how  in  the  nineteenth 
century  the  potentate  of  a  small  territory  could  gather  together 
and  expend  such  sums  in  extravagant  construction.  The  saloons, 
halls,  and  dining-rooms,  as  well  as  bed-chambers,  are  luxuriously 
finished  and  furnished  in  modern  style.  A  spiral  staircase  from 
the  first  floor  to  the  upper  apartments  is  of  black  marble,  and 
the  railing  of  bronze  gold  gilt.  The  church,  or  chapel,  is  richly 
decorated,  and  the  windows  are  of  stained  glass.  Several  senti- 
nels were  under  arms ;  permission  was  granted,  for  a  fee,  to 
inspect  the  whole  premises,  with  the  hot-houses,  and  obtain  a 
fine  view  over  the  beautiful  lake,  reminding  one  of  the  sheets 
of  water  in  the  western  part  of  our  state. 

The  peasants  are  still  attached  to  the  soil,  without  the  privi- 
lege of  obtaining  title  for  lands.     The  landholders  own  large 


544  MECKLENBERG. 

estates,  and  are  wealthy.  The  duties  upon  importations  are 
light.  This  class  of  citizens  can  obtain  at  small  cost  all  articles 
they  require.  The  crown  is  possessed  of  an  immense  domain, 
which  brings  in  large  revenues,  enabling  the  grand-ducal  family 
to  expend  large  sums  without  extorting  from  the  land  proprie- 
tors ;  but  inquiry  may  be  made,  "  who  pays  ?  "  the  answer 
naturally  is,  "  the  labor  of  the  peasant."  Time  will  make  a 
change.  The  downtrod  workman,  if  he  can  raise  the  means, 
will  find  his  way  to  America,  and  they  will  have  to  introduce 
hired  cultivators  from  the  neighboring  countries,  or  abandon  the 
system. 

Rostock  and  Weimar  are  their  seaports  on  the  Baltic ;  the 
former  has  a  population  of  twenty  thousand,  and  is  quite  noted 
for  its  shipbuilding.  I  found  many  vessels  lying  in  ordinary 
for  want  of  employment,  growing  out  of  the  commercial  crisis, 
and  but  few  on  the  stocks. 

Mecklenberg  not  being  a  manufacturing  state,  and  the  wealthy 
land  proprietors  not  being  able  to  loan  on  home  securities, 
turned  their  attention  to  interest  in  shipbuilding,  and  are  groan- 
ing over  their  losses. 

A  horticultural,  agricultural,  and  mechanical  exhibition  was 
being  held,  which  was  of  interest.  The  farm  implements  were 
of  a  heavy  character,  and  capable  of  much  improvement.  As 
in  most  German  towns,  the  walks  and  promenades  have  received 
much  attention.  The  old  fortifications  and  ramparts  have  been 
planted'  with  shade  trees  and  flowers,  and  afford  a  delightful 
stroll  for  the  inhabitants. 

The  Blucher  square,  or  place,  contains  the  bronze  monument 
erected  to  the  memory  of  the  marshal,  celebrated  at  Waterloo, 
who  was  born  in  Rostock,  in  1743.  The  parks,  grounds,  and 
lakes  in  and  about  Schwerin  are  as  lovely  as  could  be  desired  ; 
but  the  residence  city,  notwithstanding  its  arsenal,  port,  and 
other  public  buildings,  has  the  air  of  a  forced  growth. 

An  hour's  ride  by  railroad  brought  me  to  this  great  commer- 
cial, free  trade  city,  with  its  population  of  one  hundred  and 
sixty-five  thousand. 

The  great  fire  of  1842,  which  burnt  over  seventy-one  streets 
and  squares,  and  destroyed  nearly  two  thousand  houses,  was  the 
cause  of  making  the  new  city  as  beautiful  as  it  now  is,  and  one 
sees  no  traces  of  the  great  conflagration  ;  but,  on  the  contrary 


ALTONA.  545 

magnificent  rows  of  tall,  solidly  constructed  houses,  public  build- 
ings, churches,  exchange,  immense  hotels,  of  American  internal 
arrangements,  a  number  of  which  are  situated  upon  the  Alster 
Basin — a  fine  sheet  of  water,  with  broad  avenues  and  sidewalks 
surrounding  it.  The  streets  of  the  old  cit}^  are  narrow,  and 
paved  with  round  cobble  stones,  dirty  and  dreary,  making  the 
contrast  more  striking.  Almost  continuous  walks  upon  the  site 
of  the  old  walls  surround  the  city,  and  are  planted  with  shade 
trees  and  shrubbery.  The  view  of  the  harbor  and  the  Elbe, 
with  its  shipping,  and  the  forests  of  masts,  obtained  from  a 
height,  is  truly  grand. 

Hamburg  being  strictly  a  commercial  city,  and  divested  of 
the  military  parade,  titles,  orders,  and  the  pomp  of  a  court  of 
monarchical  cities,  strikes  an  American  coming  from  other  parts 
of  the  continent,  as  being  more  like  a  Republican  metropolis. 
The  peculiar  costume  of  the  women  water-carriers  would  be 
exceptional.  Altona,  in  Holstein,  belonging  to  Denmark,  has 
almost  grown  into  the  city. 

The  gates  are  closed  at  night,  and  toll  must  be  paid  by  every 
person  passing,  according  to  the  lateness  of  the  hour.  The  cur- 
rency of  the  city  is  its  peculiar  kind — sliilling^  and  mark  Banco  ; 
the  former  worth  two  cents,  and  sixteen  for  mark.  The  traveller 
in  Grermany,  in  passing  from  one  frontier  to  another,  must  dis- 
pose of  the  small  coin  of  the  country,  which  may  be  of  nO'  value 
after  a  few  hours'  ride  by  the  railway.  A  gentleman  bound  for 
Russia,  whom  I  lately  met  in  the  cars,  wished  to  purchase  some 
fruit  for  his  wife.  He  was  on  his  way  from  Paris,  did  not  speak 
German,  and  pulled  out  a  handful  of  coin  which  he  had  received 
in  change  along  the  road,  none  of  which  would  pass.  The  train 
was  almost  moving,  and  he  was  giving  up  in  despair,  when  I 
came  to  the  rescue.  Mecklenberg,  Denmark,  and  even  Bremen 
change,  is  of  little  value  here,  although  only  separated  by  the 
frontier.  A  story  is  told  of  a  Frenchman,  who,  starting  on  a 
tour  through  Germany  and  Italy,  as  an  experiment  put  a  twenty- 
franc  gold  piece  in  his  vest  pocket,  changing  the  same  into  the 
currency  of  each  country  as  he  passed,  and  on  his  return  found 
the  entire  sum  had  gone  into  the  hands  of  the  money-changers. 


35 


546  KIEL. 


CXLIX. 


Hanover,  Germany,  Nov.  29,  1858. 

I  THOUGHT  I  had  quite  finished  up  mj^  peregrinations  in  the 
north  of  German}'-,  but  I  found  I  had  left  unvisited  parts  of 
Schleswig  Ilolstein,  -which,  since  the  war  of  1848,  has  occupied 
so  much  of  the  attention  of  German  and  Danish  diplomats. 

This  country  is  populated  mostly  by  Germans,  and  that  lan- 
guage is  generally  spoken,  but  it  is  governed  by  Danish  officers 
and  the  military,  in  as  mild  a  form  as  possible ;  the  ill--will  and 
hatred  of  the  inhabitants,  ho-vvever,  is  so  great,  that  little  social 
intercourse  is  kept  up  between  them.  The  currency  is  Danish, 
but  German  coin  passes  for  nearly  its  value,  as  the  trade  with 
Hamburg,  and  the  direct  communication  by  railroad  with  Kiel 
and  Schleswig,  keeps  up  the  German  influence,  to  the  detriment 
of  Copenhagen.  After  long  delay,  and  bitter  recriminations 
and  threats,  the  Danish  king  has  granted  many  concessions,  and 
a  constitution  for  self-representation.  The  people  hope,  and, 
with  Germany,  desire  its  union  with  the  Vaterland  ;  but  the 
balance  of  power  is  such  a  delicate  question  in  Europe,  and  the 
jealousy  of  governments  towards  each  other  so  great,  that  the 
matter  may  be  put  off  until,  perhaps,  a  revolution  brings  a 
change.  The  quickest  and  easiest  communication  with  Copen- 
hagen is,  via  Kiel,  by  rail,  a  distance  of  seventy  miles  from 
Hamburg,  where  steamers  are  found  in  readiness  for  embarka- 
tion. 

Every  stranger  that  visits  Hamburg,  if  time  permits,  should 
make  an  excursion  in  Holstein,  if  only  to  get  a  passing  view  of 
nature's  beauties,  of  picturesque  lakes,  meadows,  and  fields,  with 
their  hedges. 

AVere  it  not  for  the  three  gates,  one  would  scarcely  know  he 
had  left  Hamburg  in  driving  through  the  city  of  Altona,  in 
Danish  territory,  to  take  the  railroad  for  Kiel,  as  the  two  cities 
are  nearly  grown  together, 

Kiel  has  some  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants.  Its  environs  may 
be  called  beautiful.  The  forests  of  beech  and  other  trees  along 
the  water's  edge,  with  bathing  places,  and  some  elevated  points 
of  view,  make  it  a  desirable  summer  residence.  It  evidently 
has  much  improved  of  late.     The  country  mansions  and  gar- 


HARBURG.  547 

dens  bear  testimony  of  the  flict.  The  fisli  market  is  abundantly 
supplied,  and  what  is  better,  there  is  no  duty,  as  is  the  case  the 
moment  the  German  frontier  is  crossed  in  the  interior.  Among 
the  delicacies,  in  smoked  articles,  are  the  "  Schnebel,"  and  large 
sized  eels,  which  are  exported  in  great  quantities  to  the  interior. 
The  oysters  used  in  Germany  are  mostlj''  from  the  North  Sea. 
They  are  much  smaller  than  ours,  and  have  not  unfrequently  a 
coppery  flavor.  Salmon  and  lobsters  come  mostly  from  Norway. 
Hamburg  is  celebrated  for  its  basement  rooms,  or  Kellers, 
where  are  found  all  the  dainties  that  land  and  water  furnish. 

Kiel  has  its  monuments,  public  buildings,  and  attractions,  but 
nothing  very  striking  to  the  general  traveller.  Its  harbor  is 
fine  and  deep,  and  here  lay  at  anchor,  near  the  shore,  the  entire 
fleet,  at  one  period  during  the  war  with  Russia. 

The  terminus  of  the  railroad  which  leads  to  this  city  is  at 
Harburg,  the  new  rival  of  Hambuj^g,  upon  the  Elbe,  and  only 
eight  miles  from  the  last-named  place.  When  I  was  last  there, 
in  1855,  the  inundation  of  the  river  had  flooded  the  island  of 
Wilhelmsburg,  carrying  away  houses,  cattle,  and  crops,  and 
destroying  millions  of  property  in  the  lower  part  of  the  metro- 
polis. Hundreds  of  persons  were  shelterless.  We  were  aroused 
at  midnight  in  the  midst  of  a  terrific  rain  storm,  by  the  alarm 
guns  warning  the  occupants  of  basements  and  one  story 
dwellings,  to  save  themselves  from  drowning.  When  we  took 
the  steamer  for  Harburg,  in  passing  the  island  we  saw  only  the 
tops  of  trees  where  now  I  pass  in  an  omnibus,  over  a  well  culti- 
vated country,  with  dusty  roads,  and  the  people  complaining  for 
want  of  rain. 

A  few  miles  below  lies  Stade,  a  small  town  of  six  thousand 
inhabitants,  which  gives  the  name  to  the  Stade  Zol,  or  imposi- 
tion of  the  River  Elbe  dues,  which  our  government  is  trying 
to  induce  the  Hanoverian  authorities  to  renounce. 

Harburg  has  made  much  progress,  and  grown  to  be  quite  a 
city  under  the  protection  of  the  Hanoverian  government,  and 
favors  in  the  way  of  duties  and  manufactures. 

The  route  to  this  place  is  an  uninteresting  one,  lying  in  part 
over  the  Luneburger  Haide  or  Heath,  which  is  without  cultiva- 
tion. I  perceive,  however,  that  advances  are  made  in  the  way 
of  irrigation,  and  it  is  pleasant  to  see  entire  waste  lands,  by  the 
use  of  water,  made  to  produce  bountifully.     It  called  to  mind  an 


548  THE   BLIND   KING. 

experiment  of  a  rice  garden,  and  olive  and  almond  trees,  which 
Mehemet  Ali  produced  upon  the  white  sand  of  the  Egyptian 
desert,  by  the  use  of  the  Persian  wheel,  driven  by  oxen  ;  and  it 
struck  me  that  the  Arabs  regarded  him  little  less  than  Deity. 

Having  formerly  described  what  was  of  most  interest  in  this 
city  when  I  made  it  a  temporary  residence,  I  can  only  add  that 
the  population  has  increased,  the  city  limits  extended,  and  many 
new  improvements  have  been  made.  The  large  cotton  and  car- 
pet factories  flourish  in  consequence  of  the  great  protection  in  the 
tariff.  Eents  and  living  expenses,  as  well  as  taxation,  are 
increasing,  but  workmen  are  better  paid  than  formerly,  as  the 
country  was  chiefly  agricultural  and  there  is  now  more  demand 
for  labor,  growing  out  of  the  manufacturing. 

The  King,  although  blind,  is  building  a  new  palace,  and  has 
just  called  upon  the  Stande  or  Chambers,  for  an  appropriation  of 
six  hundred  tJiousand  dialers  for  the  wodc,  as  far  as  completed. 

A  fair  has  been  recently  held  here,  which  for  a  stranger  is  well 
worth  seeing.  One  day  only  is  allowed  for  the  furniture  sale, 
and  it  is  held  in  a  different  part  of  the  city.  Every  variety  of 
household  article  is  exposed  for  sale,  brought  in  from  small 
neighboring  villages,  which  gives  the  poor  a  chance  to  buy 
cheap.  It  is  curious  to  see  the  stream  of  wagons  and  carts,  drawn 
not  only  by  horses,  oxen,  and  donkeys,  but  single  cows  and 
spaniel  dogs  in  harness,  the  drivers  cracking  their  whips.  Now 
comes  a  load  of  countrywomen,  in  fancy  colored  short  corsets 
and  jupes,  then  the  Bauer,  or  peasant,  with  his  high-topped 
boots,  long-tailed  coat,  and  big  bright  buttons.  The  market- 
places were  filled  with  booths  and  venders  from  other  cities, 
with  every  variety  of  articles,  attractive  and  for  use ;  jewelry, 
wearing  apparel,  and  pumpernickel,  or  honey  cake,  in  great 
quantities,,  an  indispensable  article  for  the  multitude.  The  good- 
natured  country  people,  with  their  Piatt  Deutsch,  or  land  dia- 
lect, seemed  to  have  a  good  time  of  it,  and  the  national  dishes  of 
sausage  and  saur  kraut,  with  light  beer  and  pipes,  were  in  great 
demand. 

Here  in  Hanover,  and  also  in  Celle,  a  town  of  ten  thousand 
population,  which  I  lately  visited,  the  language  spoken  by  the 
upper  classes  is  the  most  pure  in  all  Germany. 


BIRTH   OF   A   PRINCE.  549 


18  5  9. 
CL. 

Berlin,  February  23,  1859. 

The  great  event  of  the  season  was  the  birth  of  a  prince  to  the 
crown  of  Prussia,  and  the  first  grandcliild  of  Queen  Victoria. 
Demonstrations,  congratulations,  and  addresses  have  been  made 
to  the  royal  parents  by  the  Lord  Mayor,  and  other  dignitaries  of 
London.  The  street  upon  which  I  live,  leading  to  the  Palace, 
was  crowded  with  vehicles,  containing  the  nobility,  civil,  and 
military  officers  in  full  uniform,  advancing  to  the  royal  residence 
to  inscribe  and  present  themselves  in  honor  of  the  happy  event. 
Crowds  of  persons  were  standing  upon  the  sidewalks  for  many 
days  afterwards,  gazing  up  at  the  windows  and  walls  which 
inclose  this  precious  jewel  of  a  monarchical  people.  The 
students  have  since  had  their  torchlight  celebration  for  the 
occasion. 

In  these  reverences  and  a  thousand  other  ways,  through  titles 
and  orders  given  to  all  persons  of  any  distinction,  wealth,  or 
merit,  is  the  aristocratic  band  so  linked  together,  that  the  very 
children  imbibe  that  love  and  respect  and  awe  for  the  royal 
family  till  it  seems  engrafted  in  their  very  natures. 

In  political  matters  you.  are  kept  fully  advised  through  the 
European  journals.  As  I  suggested  in  my  last,  things  look  omi- 
nous for  the  future.  The  money  and  commercial  marts  are  still 
agitated,  and  uncertainty  prevails.  France  continues  steadily 
her  military  preparations  ;  Sardinia  the  same.  Austria  is  stub- 
born, and  sends  further  supplies  of  troops  into  Italy.  Diplomacy 
is  hard  at  work  to  prevent  a  general  European  war,  and,  if  the 
issue  must  come,  to  confine  it  to  the  Peninsula.  A  slight  out- 
break at  the  present  moment  would  put  all  Europe  in  a  blaze. 
The  demand  for  saltpetre  in  the  London  markets,  even  from  the 
smaller  powers,  and  the  prohibition  of  the  sale  of  horses  shows 
that  they  fear  the  result,  and  must  be  prepared,  if  not  against  the 


550  WAR   IN   PROSPECT. 

enem}',  against  their  own  people.  Cannon  foundries  and  manu- 
factories of  arms  are  in  full  blast  in  different  countries. 

The  horrors  of  a  European  war,  the  destruction  of  life  and 
projDcrtj,  the  anguish  of  widows  and  orphans,  the  demoralization 
of  invading  armies,  the  cost  of  maintaining  the  same,  and  the 
entailment  of  debt,  are  not  to  be  portrayed.  Already  Austria 
and  Sardinia  are  in  the  market  for  loans,  consequently  there  is 
a  depreciation  of  the  whole  outstanding  debt  in  the  hands  of  the 
public. 

Since  I  visited  the  Crimea  I  feel  myself  better  able  to  judge 
of  consequences.  The  ruined  and  battered  fortresses  and  public 
and  private  edifices  of  Sebastopol,  Kertch,  and  other  points,  the 
graveyards  of  the  half  million  of  souls  of  Inkerman,  Alma,  and 
the  Malakoff,  all  testify  to  the  melancholy  results.  However, 
the  question  of  the  whole  Italian  race,  suffering  under  the  bonds 
and  chains  of  tyrants,  cannot  be  longer  delayed,  and  we  shall 
probably  soon  know  the  decision.  Either  the  evacuation  by 
Austria  of  the  Papal  States,  and  the  duchies  of  Modena  and 
Parma,  and  abandonment  of  her  tutelage,  with  a  system  of  reform, 
or  war,  must  be  the  result. 

Some  persons  contend  that  war,  like  cholera,  or  other  epi- 
demics, in  over-populated  countries,  is  as  necessary  as  a  thunder- 
storm to  clear  a  sultry  and  vitiated  atmosphere,  to  sweep  off  a 
part  of  the  redundant  population,  lessen  competition,  and  give 
the  survivors  a  chance  to  earn  their  bread.  More  humane  means 
can  be  substituted  in  the  favoring  of  emigration  to  the  vast 
regions  of  unoccupied  territory,  not  only  in  Europe,  but  in  both 
Americas. 

While  all  Europe  is  in  uncertainty,  America  stands  without 
anxiety,  as  a  looker-on.  In  the  event  of  a  European  war  her 
breadstuffs  would  find  a  ready  market.  Capitalists,  looking  at 
the  uncertain  tenure  of  things  here,  would  turn  their  attention  to 
investments  on  the  other  side.  Emigrants,  to  escape  army  duty 
and  save  what  little  they  have  from  destruction,  would  take 
refuge  in  this  land  of  liberty.  Her  Mexican  and  Cuban  question 
could  be  settled  without  the  interference  of  foreign  powers,  who 
would  have  occupation  at  home. 

Our  Treasury  it  seems  is  exhausted,  and  loans  are  made  in 
time  of  peace.  We  pay  our  President  twenty -five  thousand  dol- 
lars a  year.     I  notice  the  French  Senate  have  granted  Prince 


Washington's  birthday.  551 

Napoleon  eight  hundred  thousand  francs,  or  one  hundred  and 
sixty  thousand  dollars,  as  expenses  for  his  marriage  to  the 
daughter  of  Sardinia's  king,  and  two  million  francs,  or  four  hun- 
dred thousand  dollars  yearly.  In  the  event  of  widowhood  she  is 
to  have  forty  thousand  dollars,  our  currency,  and  a  palace  to  her 
use.  All  that  for  a  cousin  of  the  Emperor.  What  would  our 
honest  yeomanrj^  think  of  such  outgoes  with  us,  which  are  mostly 
made  up  by  indirect  taxation  upon  each  and  every  article  con- 
sumed by  rich  and  poor  ? 

Yesterday  we  celebrated  the  birthday  of  "Washington  at  a 
splendid  dinner  given  by  our  minister,  at  which  assisted  some 
sixty  persons  of  both  sexes — Americans  residing  in  or  passing 
through  Berlin,  naturalized  Germans,  Consuls  and  Senators  from 
Bremen,  Stettin,  &c.  Baron  Humboldt  sat  vis-a-vis  with  Gov. 
Wright  under  the  folds  of  the  American  flag.  Toasts  and 
speeches,  as  customary  on  such  occasions,  were  made,  and  all 
passed  off'  to  the  satisfaction  of  guests.  Some  fifteen  or  more  of 
our  states  were  represented,  and  were  called  upon  for  a  sentiment 
or  a  toast,  which,  under  the  exhilarating  influence  of  champagne, 
was  generally  well  responded  to,  and  brought  forth  some  amusing 
and  historical  reminiscences  of  the  American  revolution.  Por- 
traits of  the  Father  of  his  country,  of  Humboldt,  Webster, 
and  others,  and  the  beautiful  engraving  of  Washington  crossing 
the  Delaware,  were  suspended  from  the  wall.  An  artist  gave  a 
toast  which  was  rather  a  strong  one  in  a  monarchical  government, 
and  in  a  less  enlightened  age  perhaps  we  would  not  have  had  the 
privilege  of  meeting  together  to  commemorate  the  birthday  of  a 
republican  victor ;  it  was  to  "Humboldt,  the  King  of  Science, 
whose  shoes  most  kings  are  not  worthy  to  unloose."  The  vene- 
rable old  man  is  now  in  his  ninetieth  year ;  he  is  fond  of  ladies' 
society,  who  adore  him  as  a  traveller  and  writer.  He  has 
remained  a  bachelor.  His  memory  is  fresh  and  vigorous;  I 
asked  him  if  he  recollected  my  presentation  by  Gov.  Yroome, 
some  four  years  since,  and  the  conversation  about  the  island  of 
Ceylon.  "  Yes,"  replied  he  briefly,  "  and  Singapore  also,"  and 
then  recounted  information  derived  from  other  sources  since. 


552  WEIMAR. 


CLI. 

Frankfort-on-the-Maine,  Germany,  March  22,  1859. 

I  left  the  agreeable  city  of  Berlin  with  mingled  feelings  of 
regret  and  pleasure.  To  get  rid  of  an  obstinate  attack  of  bron- 
chitis when  all  other  remedies  fail,  my  usual  course  is  change  of 
climate,  and  I  put  myself  on  the  road  for  Dresden,  the  Saxon 
capital,  as  well  as  the  business  city  of  Leipzig,  which  I  next 
touched,  I  had  visited  it  before  on  different  occasions  and 
described  it  to  you,  and  it  offered  but  little  new. 

I  thought  I  had  seen  the  thirty-two  empires,  kingdoms,  duchies, 
landgraves,  and  otlier  imperial,  royal,  and  ducal  residences  of 
Germany,  but  recollected  an  unexplored  tract  through  the 
Erzhogthum  of  Weimar,  and  of  Gotha  and  Coburg,  the  latter 
duchies  celebrated  as  furnishing  husbands  for  most  of  the  Prin- 
cesses of  Europe,  Prince  Albert  of  England  being  one  of  the 
number.  As  I  was  at  a  loss  to  know  what  route  to  take  for  a 
change  in  such  an  emergency  the  smallest  favors  are  thankfully 
received. 

It  is  really  curious  and  interesting  to  look  into  these  little 
Dutch  settlements,  and  scrutinize  the  efforts  made  by  these  pigmy 
potentates  to  imitate  the  regal  residences  of  great  sovereigns,  as  I 
once  described  to  you,  from  Port  au  Prince,  Island  of  Hayti,  that 
the  guards  and  cannon  at  the  entrance  of  the  Imperial  gates  of 
the  black  despot  looked  as  formidable  as  those  of  the  Emperor 
of  Russia.  But  the  people  have  there  wrought  a  change,  and 
Soulouque  is  a  w^anderer.  In  time  similar  changes  will  take 
place  in  Germany. 

The  towns  of  Jena  and  Nuremburg,  and  the  battlefields  of 
1806,  with  the  bivouac  of  Napoleon  upon  the  height  called  Land- 
graf  berge,  are  all  of  much  historical  interest.  The  town  of 
"Weimar  has  thirteen  thousand  inhabitants,  and  lies  upon  the  slope 
of  a  beautiful  valley,  through  which  runs  a  limpid  stream.  On 
the  opposite  side  are  elevated  commanding  grounds,  upon  which 
stands  a  new  caserne  containing  an  entire  regiment  of  one 
thousand  men.  The  town  appears  neat,  is  well  paved,  and  has  the 
air  of  a  regal  seat,  without  much  trade  or  commerce,  where  the 
residents  are  in  part  dependent  on  the  government,  or  persons 
whose  means  allow  them  to  enjoy  the  advantages  of  such  facili- 


GOTHA.  553 

ties  as  cannot  be  obtained  in  the  small  villages  or  upon  the 
land. 

The  large  and  beautiful  palace  contains  rooms  with  fresco 
paintings  consecrated  to  the  poets  Goethe,  Schiller,  Herder,  and 
Wieland,  who  were  patronized  by  the  then  existing  duke.  The 
summer  cottage  of  Goethe,  vis-d-vis  to  a  rustic  resort  of  the  duke, 
in  the  wood,  is  still  in  the  possesssion  of  the  poet's  family.  At 
twelve  A.M.,  the  band  played  before  the  palace.  A  Greek  chapel 
is  found  here,  as  well  as  in  several  German  courts,  in  consequence 
of  Russian  marriages.  The  mother  of  the  present  duke  is  sister 
of  the  ex-emperor  Nicholas.  So  you  perceive  how  the  family 
alliances  are  calculated  to  divide  political  influences  in  the 
Fatherland.  The  library  has  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
volumes,  also  a  good  collection  of  medallions  and  objects  of  art. 
A  fine  large  theatre  is  supported.  The  park  is  prettily  laid  out 
with  rich  and  rare  plants,  hothouses,  and  a  summer  palace  for  the 
duke.  All  these  and  much  more  might  be  added  from  a  little 
domain  of  three  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  about  one-third 
that  of  New  York  and  Brooklyn,  with  a  salary  of  two  hundred 
and  eighty  thousand  thalers,  say  two  hundred  and  twenty 
thousand  dollars  our  currency.  Horses,  carriages,  liveried  ser- 
vants must  be  kept  up,  three  thousand  troops  entertained,  and — 
who  pays  ?  These  princes  have  generally  large  land  incomes  in 
addition  to  salary,  and  in  this  case  Russia  contributes  a  portion. 
The  territory  of  Gotha  and  Coburg  is  smaller.  The  population 
of  Gotha  is  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand,  Coburg  forty 
thousand,  making  one  hundred  and  sixty  thousand  in  all. 
The  town  of  Gotha  has  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  beau- 
tifull}^  situated  upon  a  side  hill,  with  water  running  through  all 
the  streets.  The  new  part  looks  well,  but  the  old  dull,  and  not 
so  fine  as  Weimar.  The  Schloss  or  palace  stands  upon  a  high 
hill  called  Hochberg,  and  is  of  quadrangular  form,  some  four 
hundred  feet  or  more  in  extent,  with  a  high  tower.  The  grounds 
are  extensive,  and  the  terrace  is  compared  by  some  to  that  of 
Windsor  in  England.  The  view  is  very  extensive.  The  alleys 
and  public  walks  around  the  little  city  are  strikingly  beautiful. 
There  are  several  other  palaces  and  summer  residences  belonging 
to  the  Duchy,  a  library  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  thousand 
volumes,  a  collection  of  coins  consisting  of  some  forty  thousand 
pieces,  a  Chinese  cabinet,  galleries  of  pictures,  copperplates,  etc. 


554  MARIA   GLORIOSA. 

One  naturally  wonders  where  and  how  such  collections  and 
public  buildings  have  been  put  together  and  paid  for,  and  by 
whom.  The  theatre  is  a  fine  building,  and  a  regular  company  is 
kept  up. 

The  Duke  receives  one  hundred  and  forty  thousand  thalers 
from  the  land  yearly,  say  one  hundred  and  five  thousand  dollars 
our  currency.  He  was  absent  with  his  wife  in  Berlin  at  the 
christening  of  the  infant  Prince  of  Victoria,  whose  mother  is  his 
niece,  the  daughter  of  Prince  Albert.  He  has  no  family,  and  at 
his  death  Gotha  and  Coburg  fall  to  Prince  Alfred,  the  second  son 
of  England's  sovereign,  who  is  now  in  the  navy.  The  present 
Duke  is  a  soldier,  and  lives  in  a  small  palace,  like  a  sensible  man, 
and  is  esteemed  by  his  people.  The  army  contingent  is  sixteen 
hundred  troops.  All  these  things  are  very  pretty  to  gaze  upon,  and 
quite  attractive  to  travellers  who  look  only  upon  the  surface,  but 
talk  with  the  people  a  little  and  get  their  views. 

The  manufacturing  of  lucifer  matches  has  become  a  heavy 
business  for  exportation.  You  can  scarcely  believe  it  that  in  this 
unhealthy  occupation  girls  are  employed  at  three  and  a  half 
silver-groschen,  or  nine  cents,  per  day,  whose  food  consists  of 
potatoes  and  rye  meal  cooked  together,  who  scarcely  know  what 
it  is  to  get  a  piece  of  meat.  In  Erfurt,  an  old  city  of  thirty 
thousand  inhabitants,  where  nothing  of  interest  offered  except 
the  cathedral,  dome,  and  the  fortifications,  I  mounted  the  steeple 
for-  a  view  and  to  look  at  a  bell  of  great  weight,  here  considered 
a  wonder,  and  called  the  Maria  Gloriosa.  I  asked  the  girl  who 
conducted  us  if  she  had  ever  heard  of  the  Moscow  bell,  which  is 
really  of  monstrous  size.  She  did  not  even  know  the  name.  I 
inquired  if  many  visitors  came,  and  what  she  earned.  She  replied 
the  sexton  paid  her  twelve  thalers  the  quarter  year,  or  thirty- 
six  dollars  our  currency,  yearly.  The  gifts  of  visitors  she  must 
hand  over,  or  they  would  be  taken  from  her.  One  cannot  but 
pity  such  objects.  I  then  said  I  will  pay  the  sexton  and  what 
we  give  is  extra  for  your  use.  People  complain  of  untrusty 
servants,  of  peculations  and  unjust  reckonings  in  short  weights, 
etc.  I  tell  them  it  is  their  own  foult ;  they  have  driven  them  to 
dishonesty  by  low  wages,  which  makes  slavery  on  the  plantation 
a  preferable  position. 

My  next  halting-place  was  Hesse  Cassel,  from  whence  the 
English  imported  troops  to  fight  against  us  in  the  revolution.     I 


HESSE   CASSEL.  OOO 

saw  a  review  of  the  Gross  Furst,  or  Elector.  lie  lias  a  passion 
for  military.  The  country  has  nine  thousand  soldiers,  but  in  case 
of  war  the  number  demanded  by  the  German  confederation  is 
twelve  thousand.  The  people  are  not  satisfied  with  their  elector. 
His  salary  is  eight  hundred  thousand  thalers.  He  has  a  large 
family,  and  his  wife  was  the  daughter  of  a  hotel-keeper,  conse- 
quently his  children  cannot  occupy  his  place,  and  it  is  said 
instead  of  spending  his  money  at  home  for  the  good  of  the 
people,  it  is  sent  to  England,  or  used  in  the  purchase  of  estates 
in  Bohemia,  for  the  future  provision  of  his  heirs. 

I  have  twice  before  visited  Cassel,  and  described  to  you  its 
position,  its  suburbs  of  Wilhelmshohe,  the  great  artificial  cas- 
cades and  fountains,  and  other  gigantic  works  executed  with 
English  gold  received  for  the  sale  of  Hessian  soldiers. 

I  have  said  nothing  about  politics.  The  excitement  in  Ger- 
many has  been  great,  but  no  unity  of  action.  The  Austrian 
papers  lash  Prussia  for  her  neutral  policy.  The  attacked  jour- 
nals reply  that  they  are  ready  to  defend  the  interests  of  the 
Fatherland,  but  unwilling  to  assist  in  the  perpetuation  of  tyranny 
in  Italy,  and  in  the  total  want  of  religious  toleration  in  Austria. 
The  brochures^  or  pamphlets,  in  Paris,  advising  the  conquest  of 
the  Rhine  provinces,  have  done  more  to  wake  up  the  German 
population  than  anything  else. 


CLII. 

Frankfort-on-the-Maine,  Germany,  April  22,  1859. 
The  free  city  of  Frankfort  is  historically  known  since  the 
eighth  century.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  Deutsche  Bund,  or  German 
Confederation.  In  the  old  Roman  Hall  in  the  Rathhouse,  or 
City  Hall,  where  the  German  emperors  and  kings  were  chosen, 
the  full  length  portraits,  in  costume,  of  the  entire  line  are  exhi- 
bited. In  the  Dom  Kirche,  or  cathedral,  is  found  the  monument 
to  the  memory  of  Kaiser  (or  Emperor)  Gunther,  of  Schwarzberg, 
dated  in  the  year  1352  ;  also  the  tombstone,  under  date  of  1371, 
of  the  Hitter,  or  knight  Rudolph,  of  Sachsenhausen,  which  little 
town  lies  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  Maine,  connected  by  a 
stone  bridge  twelve  hundred  and  sixty  feet  long  and  thirty-three 
feet  wide,  resting  upon  fourteen  arches. 


556  FKANKFORT-ON-THE-MAINE. 

Strolling  through  the  settlement  the  other  day  I  found  the 
streets  narrow,  the  town  surrounded  by  a  wall,  the  egress  by  the 
same  gates  through  which  one  goes  in,  and  the  language  of  the 
people  almost  unintelligible  and  quite  different  from  those  who 
come  in  contact  with  the  world  where  pure  German  is  spoken. 

Last  Sunday  I  found  myself  in  the  Protestant,  St.  Paul's, 
Church,  consecrated  in  1833,  on  the  site  of  the  old  Eoman  Bar- 
fusse  Kirche.  It  is  in  an  elliptical  form,  built  of  square  free- 
stone blocks.  While  listening  to  the  tones  of  the  immense 
organ,  my  mind  was  carried  back  involuntarily  to  the  events  of 
1848,  when  I  had  seen  this  edifice  used  for  the  General  Assembly 
of  nine  hundred  delegates,  presided  over  by  the  Grand  Duke 
Johan  of  Austria,  whom  it  was  proposed  to  elect  emperor  of  all 
Germany.  The  torchlight  and  window  illuminations  of  the  city 
upon  his  arrival  was  a  striking  feature,  but  it  was  all  a  flash  in 
the  pan — an  entire  failure.  The  revolution  was  soon  over. 
Austria  had  gained  the  battle  of  Novara  over  Sardinia,  and 
reinstated  her  power.  France  was  again  quiet.  The  kings  of 
Europe,  who  had  in  the  presence  of  the  enraged  masses  promised 
constitutions  and  all  else  required,  soon  found  the  people  them- 
selves disunited,  and  began  to  contract  their  strength  and  forces, 
and  finally  refused  to  perform  any  of  the  acts  named. 

The  central  position  of  this  city  gives  it  a  decided  advantage 
for  trade  and  commerce.  The  activity  of  the  eighty  thousand 
inhabitants  is  striking  in  comparison  with  the  ducal  residence 
of  Darmstadt,  an  hour's  ride  by  railway,  with  its  long  broad 
streets  and  population  of  thirty  thousand,  but  looking  dull  and 
dreary  as  a  village.  The  railroad  in  an  hour  conveys  one  to 
Wiesbaden,  in  a  half  hour  to  Mayence,  and  in  an  hour's  ride  by 
omnibus  and  rail  one  arrives  at  Homburg. 

The  baths  of  the  first  and  last-named  places  are  now  open  for 
the  season,  but  it  is  too  early  for  many  guests.  On  festival  days 
they  are  full,  and  the  sums  of  gold  lost  and  won  upon  roulette 
and  trente  et  quarante  are  scarcely  credible.  A  Eussian  noble- 
man attracted  the  attention  of  the  numerous  bystanders  recently, 
as  he  used  only  gold  and  one  thousand  franc  bank  notes,  a  pile 
of  which  he  had  before  him,  and  won  and  lost  equal  to  one 
thousand  dollars,  our  currency,  upon  the  turn  of  the  wheel — 
now  reducing  his  capital,  and  then  increasing.  The  bank  of 
Wiesbaden  paid  its  shareholders  thirty-one  per  cent,  dividend  the 


GAMBLING.  557 

last  year,  after  expending  fabulous  sums  in  the  embellishment 
of  the  gardens,  fountains,  magnificent  Kursaal,  and  read- 
ing rooms ;  and  after  giving  semi-weekly  balls,  hunting  parties 
at  the  close  of  the  season,  &c.,  &c.,  besides  paying  to  the  Duke 
of  Nassau  a  large  annual  sum  for  the  privilege  of  fleecing  the 
public.  It  is  an  interesting  study  to  see  how  these  tilings  are 
managed  at  Homburg  and  Wiesbaden.  In  addition  to  the 
immense  expenses  for  laying  out  and  beautifying  the  grounds 
with  trees  and  flowering  plants,  the  best  restaurateur  from  Paris 
is  employed  to  furnish  a  table  d'hote  in  the  superb  ornamental 
gilded  and  frescoed  dining  hall  at  a  moderate  price,  thereby 
attracting  strangers.  The  omnibus  line  receives  a  portion  of  the 
fare  from  the  bank,  making  it  easier  accessible.  The  entrance  to 
the  reunions  is  gratis.  Musicians,  and  even  the  police  taxes,  and 
other  charges  upon  passports  are  paid  at  the  expiration  of  the 
season  by  the  company.  Many  families  spend  the  winter  at 
Homburg,  where  the  bank  is  kept  open  the  entire  year,  and  they 
enjoy  without  charge  the  use  of  reading-rooms,  with  papers  and 
periodicals  in  all  modern  languages.  The  managers,  however, 
calculate  adroitly  upon  the  general  average.  If  the  father  or 
mother  do  not  play,  the  son  or  daughter,  or  friends  perhaps  will, 
and  they  can  extricate  so  much  gain  per  head  on  the  average. 
Ladies  are  not  free  from  the  vice,  large  and  small  sums  being 
risked  by  the  fair  sex.  The  bank  even  employs  them  for  that 
purpose  as  a  decoy.  The  Landgrave,  or  petty  prince  of  this 
piece  of  land,  about  the  size  of  one  of  our  small  counties, 
receives  a  handsome  annuity. 

The  system  is  immoral  and  wicked,  and  ruins  many  families ; 
but  as  long  as  Germany  remains  disunited,  cannot  be  suppressed. 
At  the  close  of  the  last  business  season  at  Wiesbaden,  there  were, 
I  learn,  as  usual,  many  who  had  lost  all,  and  could  not  get  away. 
The  bank  in  such  cases  advances  the  means,  takes  a  note  or  draft 
for  the  same,  and  if  not  paid,  the  party  does  not  return,  conse- 
quently it  is  clear  of  them,  and  don't  incur  the  odium  of  suicides 
through  despair. 

The  old  town  of  Frankfort,  with  its  narrow,  tortuous  streets, 
gabled-end  projecting  houses  full  of  windows,  is  curious.  Out- 
side the  walls  surrounding  the  city  are  magnificent  shady  walks, 
highly  ornamented  with  shrubbery  and  plants.  The  season  is 
forward,  and  the  trees  in  full  bloom  add  to  the  beauty  of  the 


558  GERMAN   FAIES, 

promenades.  The  suburbs  are  well  laid  out  with  broad  streets 
and  superb  houses,  occupied  by  the  wealthy.  It  has  become  a 
favorite  residence  for  strangers,  being  so  central,  and  in  connex- 
ion with  so  many  attractive  watei'ing-places  and  cities. 

The  Jews  are  here  very  numerous.  Many  of  them  are 
bankers,  at  the  head  of  which  is  the  original  house  of  Eoths- 
childs.  In  the  same  neighborhood  has  recently  been  erected  an 
immense  freestone  synagogue. 

In  the  Burger  Verein,  or  Citizens'  Club,  an  institution  esta- 
blished on  an  extensive  scale,  I  find  among  other  correspondence 
some  of  our  New  York  papers. 

Frankfort  and  Leipzic  are  celebrated  in  Europe  for  their  fairs. 
Two  are  held  here  yearly.  The  Oester  Messe,  or  Easter  Fair, 
now  exists,  and  lasts  three  weeks.  The  quay  along  the  Eiver 
Maine  and  the  public  squares  are  occupied  with  booths  filled  with 
wares  from  all  parts  of  the  country.  The  concourse  of  mer- 
chants and  buyers  from  neighboring  towns  gives  activity  to  the 
place.  Of  course  amusements  are  provided  for  guests,  and 
America  comes  in  for  a  part.  There  is  an  immense  circus  from 
Berlin,  in  which  Jas.  Eobinson,  the  most  celebrated  bareback 
rider  in  the  world,  is  employed,  making  his  summersets  over  star- 
spangled  flags  and  ribbons,  backwards  and  forwards,  with  the 
agility  of  a  cat.  Bands  of  volunteer  musicians  from  other  cities, 
and  Tyrolese  minstrels,  find  themselves  here,  who  make  the 
rounds,  and  whose  notes  are  heard  from  morn  until  late  in  the 
night,  and  who  adopt  this  method  of  picking  up  the  crumbs. 
The  theatre  is  crowded ;  the  flying  horse  machines  and  puppet 
shows  please  the  children  ;  gaping  crowds  are  listening  to  the 
marvellous  tales  of  outcriers  at  the  entrance  of  travelling  mena- 
geries, museums,  camera  obscuras,  and  of  the  fat  girl  nineteen 
years  old,  weighing  six  hundred  pounds  ;  the  railroads  profit  by 
freight  and  traffic,  and  lager  beer,  sausages,  and  cheese  are  in  the 
ascendant. 

The  political  situation  of  Europe  exerts  a  baneful  influence 
upon  all  general  trade.  The  complaint  on  all  hands  is  prostra- 
tion of  business.  The  game  of  chess  now  playing  between 
France  and  Austria  is  discouraging  to  all  classes.  They  would 
prefer  open  hostilities  to  indecision.  The  belligerent  parties 
have  gone  so  far  that  we  must  soon  see  the  bloody  sword  of  war, 
or  the  olive  branch  of  peace. 


MONEY   MATTERS,  559 


CLIII. 

Pakis,  May  24,  ISoO. 

I  FIND  mj^self  once  again  in  the  great  European  capital.  It 
is  now  a  month  since  yon  heard  from  me  hist  at  Frankfort, 
German}'.  I  then  left  for  Baden-Baden  soon  after  the  opening 
of  the  season.  I  never  saw  the  country  look  more  smiling  and 
lovely.  Nature  had  put  on  her  most  beautiful  spring  attire,  and 
indeed  nothing  in  Europe  can  surpass  the  natural  scenery  of  the 
suburbs  of  this  renowned  watering-place. 

The  little  city  was  brushed  up  as  usual,  and  every  hotel  and 
lodging-house  awaiting  anxiously  the  arrival  of  guests,  but  in 
this  I  fear  they  will  be  wofully  disappointed  this  year.  The 
anxieties  and  financial  difficulties  growing  out  of  the  war,  and 
the  bitter  feeling  manifested  by  Germany  towards  the  French^ 
will  prevent  the  usual  rush  of  visitors.  Few  persons  were  there, 
and  the  magnificent  gas-lighted  saloons,  with  their  bands  of 
music,  had  few  occupants.  The  employees  of  the  gambling 
tables  looked  wistfully  at  every  stranger,  hoping  their  business 
will  soon  commence. 

The  past  month  has  been  full  of  exciting  events,  Austria 
has  renounced  negotiation.  The  war  decree  has  gone  forth. 
Sardinia  has  been  invaded.  The  French  Emperor  with  his 
troops  has  been  called  upon  for  relief.  Austria  is  intriguing  and 
stimulating  the  German  powers  to  unite  with  her  in  fortifying 
the  Rhine.  The  German  press  was  most  violent  against  the 
French  Emperor,  giving  him  the  most  opprobrious  names  and 
calling  it  a  war  of  conquest.  Austrian  securities  have  fallen 
from  eighty-five  to  thirty-eight.  Frankfort  held  some  fifty 
million  florins  of  that  national  paper.  The  war  loan  w;is 
rejected  and  Austria  made  an  arrangement  with  the  National 
Bank,  which  only  last  year  resumed  specie  payments,  to  grant 
a  loan  of  a  hundred  millions  in  small  circulating  notes,  making 
the  same  a  legal  tender.  Up  went  the  price  of  specie.  The 
bankers  and  commercial  classes  suffered,  and  large  failures 
occurred.  Commerce  and  trade  were  paralysed.  I  met  two 
Hungarians,  who  were  leaving  for  the  United  States,  who  were 
fortunate  enough  to  obtain  specie  at  a  loss  of  thirty-five  per 
cent,  against  paper.     This  stubborn  act  of  Austria  lost  her  the 


560  WAE  NEWS. 

sympathies  of  Europe,  excepting  the  small  German  states, 
Bavaria,  Wirtemburg,  Hesse  Cassel,  Baden  &c.,  some  of  whom 
are  connected  by  family  ties.  Prussia  has  stood  and  still  stands 
firm  in  resisting  the  warlike  disposition  of  the  small  states  of 
the  confederation,  observing  an  armed  neutrality  until  the  real 
interests  of  Germany  proper  are  attacked. 

The  French  people  who  opposed  the  war  are  now  almost 
universally  in  its  favor.  The  triumphal  departure  of  the 
Emperor,  his  reception  in  Piedmont,  the  subscription  to  the 
French  loan  of  more  than  four  times  the  amount,  justifies  this 
belief.  The  report  of  a  secret  alliance  between  Kussia  and  France, 
and  the  advancement  of  a  corps  of  observation  upon  the 
Austrian  and  Prussian  frontier,  caused  great  consternation  on 
the  continent.  The  English  funds  fell  five  or  six  per  cent.,  and 
many  dealers  and  brokers  were  ruined  by  the  panic  which 
ensued.  The  Tory  cabinet  was  denounced  by  the  English.  The 
report  proved  untrue.  Then  came  the  declaration  of  neutrality 
by  England. 

War  declared,  the  French  army  were  transported  south  by 
rail,  and  then  crossed  the  Alps,  while  other  regiments  went  by 
steamers  on  the  Mediterranean  to  Genoa.  The  departure  of  the 
troops,  the  enthusiasm  of  the  populace,  the  martial  display  and 
equipage  of  war  has  kept  up  a  lively  interest.  The  reports  of 
the  first  battle  and  victory  of  Montebello  are  received,  and  we 
are  anxiously  waiting  the  news  of  further  engagements.  The 
national  guard  are  the  protectors  of  the  city,  and  few  regular 
troops  are  seen,  which  is  another  evidence  of  the  popularity  of 
the  war  of  Italian  independence. 

France  is  engaged  in  a  righteous  cause  in  effecting  the  libera- 
tion of  Italy  from  the  yoke  of  tyranny  and  bondage  of  Austria. 
Having  passed  so  much  time  in  Italy,  I  may  be  permitted  to 
judge  of  the  hatred  of  foreign  domination. 

Sardinia  was  worthy  of  assistance,  being  the  only  reall}'-  libe- 
ral and  free  government  in  the  south  of  Europe.  The  Emperor, 
sagacious  as  he  is,  wanted  the  Italian  question  settled ;  and 
through  the  proposal  of  Kussia  for  a  congress,  in  which  Austria 
dared  not  show  her  hand,  he  brought  the  matter  to  a  focus.  The 
occupation  of  the  army,  the  glory  of  France  at  the  head  of  Euro- 
pean civilization,  and  the  confirmation  of  the  dynasty  were 
needed.     All  these  things  had  their  influence.     Austria  was  put 


DEATH   OF   BOMBA.  561 

in  a  false  position.  The  result  is  war,  and  if  confined  to  Italy- 
good  may  grow  out  of  it.  If  Germany  attacks  France  on  the 
Ehine,  then  the  war  becomes  general;  but  the  French  govern- 
ment and  press  are  doing  everything  possible  to  suppress  such  a 
move.  The  public  journals  are  now  unanimous  in  favor  of 
Italian  liberty,  and  the  war  cry  is,  down  with  the  Austrians,  and 
their  expulsion  from  the  shores  of  the  Adriatic. 

Last  year  this  time  I  was  riding  and  walking  over  the  battle- 
grounds and  fields  of  Alma,  Inkerman,  Kamiesch,  Eupatoria,  and 
Kertsch,  where  half  a  million  lie  buried,  and  probably  some 
curious  tourists  among  the  number. 

The  death  of  the  king  of  Naples  has  delivered  that  beautiful 
land  of  a  tyrant.  Probably  the  neutrality  of  the  young  king 
may  be  accepted.  He  is  a  cousin  of  Victor  Emanuel,  king  of 
Sardinia,  but  the  queen  mother  is  the  second  wife  of  the  deceased 
king,  and  of  the  house  of  Austria.  She  has  been  intriguing  for 
the  accession  to  the  throne  of  her  eldest  son,  and  troubles  are 
expected. 

Strangers  are  getting  away  by  small  steamers  in  crowds,  with- 
out comfort  or  accommodation.  The  war  will  make  it  very 
inconvenient  for  travellers.  The  Lloyd  steamers  in  the  Levant 
are  withdrawn  to  the  neutral  harbor  of  Malta.  The  French 
have  already  blockaded  the  ports  of  the  Adriatic  and  taken  many 
Austrian  prizes.  I  am  thankful  I  have  nothing  undone  in  that 
direction,  and  can  remain  a  neutral  spectator. 

36 


562  WAR  BETWEEN  SPAIN  AND   MOROCCO. 


18  6  0. 
CLIY. 

Tetuan,  Coast  of  Morocco,  Africa,  February  15,  1860. 

After  a  short  sojourn  in  tlie  French  capital,  I  took  the  rail 
for  Marseilles.  The  distance  of  five  hundred  miles  we  made  in 
twenty  hours,  in  comfortable  cars,  warmed  by  shallow  metallic 
vessels  filled  with  hot  water,  and  placed  under  the  feet.  This 
was  even  shorter  time  than  two  years  since,  when  I  passed  over 
the  same  road  to  embark  for  Algeria. 

It  is  now  nearly  four  months  since  the  declaration  of  war  on 
the  part  of  the  Spaniards,  who  at  vast  expense  have  landed  an 
army  of  thirty-five  thousand  men  upon  the  coast  of  Morocco. 
Tangiers  being  well  fortified,  although  blockaded,  they  could 
only  land  at  Ceuta,  a  point  occupied  by  them  for  convicts.  A 
distance  of  six  leagues  then  had  to  be  made  by  land  along  the 
coast  to  the  small  river  Tetuan,  where  they  encamped  in  presence 
of  the  Moors,  who  occupied  the  heights  and  the  city  of  Tetuan, 
which  is  upon  an  eminence  six  miles  from  the  coast.  A  great 
battle  was  fought,  and  finally  the  city  was  besieged.  The  Moors 
in  great  numbers  occupied  the  heights,  and  coming  down  in 
masses  from  the  mountains  headed  by  the  brothers  of  the  empe- 
ror of  Moracco,  harassed  and  attacked  the  Spaniards.  They 
were,  however,  dislodged  and  cut  up  by  the  latter,  who  report 
in  killed  and  wounded  two  thousand  of  the  enemy  and  two  hun- 
dred of  their  own ;  but  verbal  reports  here  say  they  lost  one 
thousand  in  killed  and  wounded.  The  latter  were  sent  away 
immediately  to  the  hospitals  of  Malaga  and  Cadiz.  Finding 
resistance  useless,  orders  were  given  to  evacuate  the  city,  and 
the  Moors  fled  in  every  direction  in  the  mountains,  but  the 
Jews,  a  much  oppressed  race,  remain,  as  also  do  the  old  and 
disabled  Moors. 

The  city,  which  contained  a  population  of  some  thirty  thou- 
sand, now  presents  a  strange  aspect,  the  narrow  streets  being 
filled  with  soldiery,  mules,  and  donkeys.    The  Jews  have  suffered 


TETUAN.  563 

much  from  pillage  at  the  hands  of  the  Moors  and  Kabyles  of  the 
Eiff,  who  are  not  unlike  their  pirate  associates,  and  the  doors  of 
a  great  number  of  houses  are  still  seen  broken  open  by  these 
marauders,  who  regarded  neither  friend  nor  foe.  The  Israelites 
are  rejoiced  at  the  result,  as  such  was  the  intolerance  of  the 
Mussulmans  that  they  were  obliged  to  take  off  their  shoes  in 
approaching  a  mosque. 

Subscriptions  have  been  made  in  different  countries  for  the 
Jews  who  are  at  Gibraltar,  who  have  been  obliged  to  abandon 
the  ports  of  Morocco.  An  agent  has  just  arrived  herewith  sup- 
plies for  the  sufferers  in  Tetuan,  who  stand  much  in  need. 

I  scarcely  know  how  to  describe  the  singular  scene  that  pre- 
sents itself  On  entering  the  roadstead  I  counted  some  forty-five 
steamers  of  different  nations,  including  several  Spanish  war  ves- 
sels, besides  a  large  number  of  small  sailing  vessels,  also  several 
tugs  for  the  purpose  of  discharging  and  towing,  while  feluccas, . 
scows,  and  small  boats  loaded  with  merchandise  and  munitions 
of  war  were  scattered  about  in  the  mouth  of  the  river  to  the 
landing  place  near  the  square  tower  or  citadel.  The  beach  and 
quays  are  covered  with  cannon,  bombs,  balls,  wheels  for  mount- 
ing, scores  of  pipes  of  red  wine,  boxes,  bales  and  packages  of  all 
kinds  for  the  supply  of  the  army,  and  for  venders  and  specula- 
tors in  and  around  the  different  camps. 

The  first  camp  presented  itself  near  the  shore,  quite  in  repose. 
Horses,  mules,  and  donkeys  were  feeding.  The  soldiers  were 
preparing  their  dinner  over  little  fires  of  sticks,  and  from  the 
little  tents  of  the  Spanish  venders  were  heard  the  cries  of  oranges, 
cigars,  liquors,  and  every  conceivable  article  which  can  be  dis- 
posed of  to  the  troops.  A  temporary  fort  had  been  thrown  up 
of  earthwork  and  the  branches  of  the  cactus,  which  attains  the 
height  of  a  small  tree  in  this  climate,  and  cannon  were  planted 
at  the  angles  and  other  openings  to  prevent  surprise.  Little 
tents  for  the  soldiery,  for  six  each,  were  spread  upon  the  ground ; 
those  of  the  ofl&cers  are  of  larger  dimensions,  and  more  com- 
fortable. 

As  we  proceeded  further,  martial  music  was  heard  in  the  dis- 
tance, and  an  array  of  horsemen  with  lances  came  up  followed 
by  infantry  and  cavalry.  Four  thousand  fresh  troops  had  just 
arrived,  and  the  road  was  lined  with  mules  and  horses,  already 
jaded  out  with  hard  service,  carrying  provisions  to  the  camj^s. 


564  THE  queen's  gate. 

Here  and  there  was  lying  a  poor  animal  who  had  drawn  his  last 
breath,  while  disabled  Moorish  cannon  and  balls  were  scattered 
about. 

To  the  right  and  left  the  encampments  were  seen,  and  the  music 
of  bands  was  heard,  mingling  with  the  national  airs  of  the 
Spanish  soldiers,  who  appear  happy,  notwithstanding  the  fatigue 
of  the  campaign  in  an  enemy's  country  during  a  rainy  season, 
with  the  accompaniment  of  cholera,  which  has  cost  the  lives  of 
many  thousands.  The  weather  is  now,  however,  dry,  and  favor- 
able to  the  health  of  the  troops. 

The  orange  gardens,  with  the  olive  and  other  trees,  look  fresh 
in  the  valleys,  which  extend  for  miles  around,  and  the  well  white- 
washed walls  of  the  city  glisten  in  the  sun's  rays,  so  that  one 
who  was  not  familiar  with  Mussulman  cities  and  structures 
would  imagine  its  contents  beautiful.  The  camp  of  Gen.  O'Don- 
nell  is  placed  upon  a  plateau  near  the  entrance,  and  over  the 
fortified  archway  is  already  inscribed  "  Puerta  de  la  Heyna,^^  or 
Queen's  Gate. 

As  soon  as  the  entrance  is  effected,  one  finds  the  streets  narrow 
and  dirty.  The  houses  are  one  and  two  stories  high,  with  small 
courts  in  the  centre  and  lodging  rooms  above.  Fountains 
abound,  as  in  all  Moorish  cities,  for  the  washing  of  the  feet  of 
the  faithful  before  entering  the  mosques.  The  principal  mosque 
upon  the  great  square  is  already  occupied  by  the  cross,  and  the 
burning  wax  candles  beside  the  Virgin,  in  singular  contrast  with 
the  suspended  ostrich  eggs  usual  in  Mussulman  temples. 

Scarcely  any  accommodations  can  be  found  for  strangers  at 
any  price,  and  such  as  can  be  found  at  enormous  prices,  remind 
me  of  California  in  its  early  days.  Fortunately  our  steamer  is 
supplied  with  all  the  comforts  and  conveniences,  and  we  may  go 
and  come  when  we  please. 

The  presumption  is  that  the  Moors  will  now  sue  for  peace, 
which  Spain  will  probably  be  glad  to  accept,  as  it  will  be  diffi- 
cult to  penetrate  a  country  where  several  millions  of  barbarians 
are  found.  If  report  tells  the  truth,  the  resources  of  the  Emperor 
of  Morocco  in  treasure  are  enormous,  the  result  of  hoarding 
from  his  ancestry  down,  and  if  the  Spaniards  can  extract  a  few 
millions  towards  the  expenses  of  the  war,  they  will  relieve  them- 
selves of  a  heavy  burden,  and  put  an  amount  of  gold  and  silver 
in  circulation  now  lying  idle. 


GIBRALTAE.  665 

The  Spaniards  have  landed  already  rails  and  ties  for  a  short 
railroad  for  the  transport  of  heavy  war  material  to  the  city. 
They  have  also  commenced  a  telegraph,  j^robably  for  communi- 
cation with  Madrid,  or  to  give  the  Moors  an  idea  of  European 
civilization.  It  struck  me  as  curious  that  they  should  do  in 
Africa  what  they  have  been  so  backward  in  accomplishing  in 
their  own  country. 


CLV. 

MoGADORE,  Coast  of  Morocco,  February  29,  1860. 

My  last  from  Tetuan,  informed  you  of  its  occupation  by  the 
Spaniards  and  the  flight  of  the  Moors,  which  has  created  the 
greatest  burst  of  enthusiasm  and  national  feeling  throughout 
Spain  ;  and  if  we  can  judge  from  the  Spanish  journals,  which 
are  filled  with  the  events  and  incidents  of  the  war,  the  praises 
of  the  army  are  being  sung  in  all  parts  of  Spain. 

Gen.  O'Donnell  has  been  created  Duke  of  Tetuan.  Eeport 
says  the  Emperor  of  Morocco  has  sued  for  peace,  and  the  Queen's 
counsellors  have  demanded  the  permanent  possessioruof  Tetuan 
and  twenty  millions  of  dollars  in  part  payment  of  the  expenses 
of  the  war.  It  now  remains  to  be  seen  if  the  Emperor  will 
accede  to  the  proposition. 

Our  steamer  received  orders  to  discharge  her  cargo  at  Gibraltar, 
where  I  took  up  my  quarters  at  the  hotel  for  a  few  days.  Hav- 
ing visited  this  strongly  fortified  key  of  the  straits  twice  before, 
and  once  described  it  to  you,  I  will  only  add  that  no  practical 
changes  have  taken  place.  The  garrison  of  six  thousand  well- 
equipped  and  well-disciplined  troops  is  kept  up.  Only  a  portion 
of  the  English  and  French  fleet,  which  were  sent  here  when  the 
war  broke  out,  now  remain  in  the  bay.  The  gates  of  the  city, 
which  inclose  twenty  thousand  souls,  including  troops,  are  closed 
at  sundown  and  opened  at  sunrise.  A  permit  is  granted  for 
visitors  who  are  not  lodged  in  the  city,  which  is  good  till  the 
evening  ;  but  a  longer  sojourn  requires  application  at  the  police. 
There  the  steamers  coal  which  are  bound  up  the  Mediterranean, 
and  to  England  and  Portugal.  The  supplies  are  drawn  from 
Spain  or  the  coast  of  Morocco,  and  vessels  from  different  sources. 
The  natives,  by  derision,   are  called  Rock  Scorpions,  and  are 


566  MONKEYS. 

mostly  Jews  and  Spaniards.  The  Spanish  is  commonly  spoken, 
although  the  schools  are  in  part  English.  The  streets  are  kept 
neat  and  clean.  The  houses  rise  one  above  another,  like  the 
sides  of  an  amphitheatre,  to  a  great  height,  and  the  ascent  requires 
considerable  climbing. 

On  the  summit  of  the  rock,  with  its  frowning  batteries  and 
tunnelled  galleries,  with  cannon  pointing  in  all  directions,  is 
seen  the  telegraph ;  and  by  it,  in  the  brush  and  scrubby  trees, 
are  monkeys  grinning  and  climbing,  the  only  representatives  of 
the  race  in  Europe,  and  who  would  have  been  extinct  long  since 
did  not  heavy  penalties  prevent  it.  On  the  African  side,  the 
mountains  are  infested  with  them. 

The  carnival  season  was  being  enjoyed  by  the  masqueraders, 
but  the  balls  and  costumes  were  rather  sorry  affairs  in  compari- 
son with  those  of  Madrid,  and  other  large  cities  of  Spain. 

Gibraltar  is  a  free  i3ort,  and  gives  employment  to  merchants 
and  traders,  who  are  celebrated  for  their  sharp  and  acute  transac- 
tions. The  captains  of  vessels  whom  I  met,  who  had  put  in  for 
repairs  or  in  distress,  say  they  are  worse  than  Key  West  wreck- 
ers. Smuggling  and  contraband  trade  with  Spain  has  fallen  off, 
however,  with  lower  duties  and  the  close  of  civil  wars. 

The  weather  was  cool  for  the  season.  Snow  was  seen  upon 
the  African  mountains,  and  bad  reports  of  cholera  came  in  from 
Tetuan  ;  large  numbers  were  dying  among  troops  and  residents. 
I  had  seen  sufiicient  evidence  o:^its  existence,  and  concluded  it 
was  safest  to  be  out  of  the  district. 

The  American  gunboat  Iroquois  came  into  Gibraltar  and  took 
our  consul,  Mr.  Brown,  to  Tangiers,  being  the  first  consular 
return  to  Morocco  since  the  war  began,  when  those  of  all  nations, 
with  their  families,  decamped,  and  all  the  subjects  of  foreign 
governments  who  could,  did  likewise.  The  only  consul  in  the 
whole  of  Morocco  who  remained,  was  the  English,  Mr.  Hay,  at 
Tangiers,  who  received  express  orders,  and  was  protected  by 
war  vessels  from  Gibraltar,  that  port  being  considered  blockaded. 

Finding  our  steamer  was  going  all  along  the  Moorish  coast, 
and  thence  to  the  Canary  Islands,  I  concluded  to  embark.  Our 
first  stopping  place  was  in  thirty -six  hours,  at  Casa  Blanca, 
where  we  landed  the  French  and  Portuguese  consuls,  who  were 
old  residents,  but,  like  all  others,  had  abandoned  their  posts, 
fearing  the  fanaticism  of  the  Moors,  and  the  loss  of  their  heads, 


MAZAGAN.  567 

as  the  wild  Arabs  don't  distinguish,  among  Christians  as  to  what 
race  they  belong.  We  remained  a  day.  The  Moors  had  heard 
of  the  taking  of  Tetuan,  and  were  uneasy,  and  less  sanguine. 
These  two  gentlemen  we  left,  but  the  thought  was  painful,  that 
they  were  running  the  risk  of  losing  their  lives  in  their  own  houses. 

We  next  proceeded  to  Mazagan,  an  old  fortified  city  of  six 
thousand  inhabitants.  It  is  of  square  form,  with  strong  walls 
and  ramparts,  situated  upon  an  iron-bound  coast.  It  was  |)uilt 
some  centuries  since  by  the  Portuguese,  who  protected  it  by 
cannon  on  the  land  side  as  well  as  the  sea,  and  occupied  it  for  a 
long  time  during  the  height  of  the  commercial  prosperity  of 
Portugal.  At  length,  from  the  encroachments  of  the  Moors, 
however,  they  were  obliged  to  abandon  it.  Before  leaving, 
they  mined  it  in  every  direction,  and  then  by  stipulation  removed 
their  population  and  supplies.  The  keys  of  the  city  having 
been  given  up,  the  wild  Arabs  rushed  in,  and  filled  up  the 
deserted  streets  and  houses.  While  looking  for  booty,  a  doub- 
loon was  discovered,  and  eagerly  seized,  which  was  attached  by 
a  thread  to  a  concealed  pistol,  which  exploded  the  mine,  and 
blew  up  the  greater  part  of  the  city,  causing  great  destruction 
of  life,  and  satisfying  the  vengeance  of  the  Portuguese. 

The  old  subterranean  cisterns,  or  reservoirs,  still  exist,  and 
are  worthy  of  their  authors,  reminding  one  of  the  old  Roman 
and  Carthaginian  masonry.  The  city  is  now  mostly  of  one 
story  buildings,  with  flat  roofs,  except  consular  and  a  few  other 
private  houses  and  magazines.  Europeans  make  themselves  as 
comfortable  as  possible  amidst  the  filth  which  prevails  ankle- 
deep  in  the  narrow  streets,  and  smells,  badly  suited  to  the  olfac- 
tories, from  dead  dogs  and  cats.  The  English  consul  being 
absent,  I  noticed  a  dead  donkey  lying  near  his  house.  Himself 
and  his  colleagues  had  all  fled  the  country,  and  cleanliness  was 
out  of  the  question. 

The  Jews  from  all  these  points  along  the  coast  had  been 
removed,  or  made  their  escape  as  far  as  possible.  Outside  the 
walls  of  Gibraltar,  I  saw  some  five  hundred  tents,  furnished  by 
the  English  government,  where  about  thirty-five  hundred  had 
congregated,  and  some  eighteen  hundred  still  remained.  The 
government  had  given  rations  daily,  and  the  French  government 
made  liberal  allowances  for  such  subjects  as  were  under  the  pro- 
tection of  its  consuls.     It  was  a  curious  sight,  reminding  one  of 


568  MOGADORE. 

the  descriptions  of  the  camp  of  Israel.  Men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren, in  the  African  Jewish  costume,  were  performing  the 
culinary  operations  of  the  separate  households.  The  canvas 
streets  had  their  names.  The  ground  floors  were  whitewashed, 
or  limed  against  infection.  English  sentries  were  on  patrol,  and 
all  well  regulated. 

The  country  about  Casa  Blanca  and  Mazagan  is  fertile,  but 
badly  cultivated,  and  produces  wheat  and  barley  of  excellent 
quality.  Cattle,  sheep,  horses,  and  donkeys  are  kept,  but  the 
camel  is  the  principal  beast  of  burden.  The  export  of  horses  is 
prohibited ;  other  animals  pay  a  considerable  head  tax.  Poultry 
and  eggs  are  abundant  and  cheap ;  gum,  wool,  and  grain  were 
the  chief  articles  of  export  before  the  war. 

We  left  two  European  merchants  who  had  their  houses  there, 
and  proceeded  to  this  place,  Mogadore,  the  farthest  point  on  the 
Morocco  coast,  at  which  a  steamer  lands,  and  which  is  the  chief 
city  for  the  trade  of  the  capital,  Morocco,  that  lies  one  hundred 
and  ten  miles  in  the  interior. 

This  is,  for  a  Moorish  city,  strongly  built,  and  is  surrounded 
with  walls.  The  houses  are  one  or  two  stories  high,  and  well 
whitewashed.  The  bastions  and  fortifications  are  upon  a  rocky 
shore.  The  small  island  of  Mogadore  forms  a  breakwater 
against  the  northerly  storms  ;  but  like  all  African  harbors,  this  is 
only  a  roadstead.  The  vicinity  consists  of  desert  for  some  miles, 
and  then  agricultural  and  grazing  country.  The  town  is  dry  and 
clean,  reminding  me  of  Tripoli,  on  the  Barbary  coast,  for  clean- 
liness, as  Mazagan  and  Casa  Blanca  compare  with  Tunis  for  filth. 

The  sight  of  a  steamer,  being  the  first  for  six  weeks,  bi'ought 
the  whole  population  out.  The  walls  and  battlements  were 
crowded  with  Arabs  from  the  country,  there  being  twelve  hun- 
dred who  had  come  in  to  protect  the  city  from  an  expected 
attack  of  the  Spaniards.  The  long  white  woollen  mantles,  or 
cloaks,  and  red  caps,  covering  their  swarthy  bodies,  the  natural 
growth  of  black  beard,  and  the  long  carabines,  presented  a 
strange  aspect,  as  they  looked  grim  and  surly  upon  the  Chris- 
tians, and  wondered  what  business  we  had  there. 

The  women,  with  their  heads  covered  with  white  veils,  and 
feet  with  yellow  boots,  looked  slyly  at  us  out  of  one  or  both  eyes, 
or  were  peeping  through  the  blinds  as  the  strangers  passed. 

Here  we  have  a  Jewish  quarter,  also,  which  is  locked  at  night 


THE   HEALTH    OFFICER.  569 

The  daughters  of  Israel  are  very  fair,  and  some  of  them  beauti- 
ful ;  they  don't  hide  their  faces  like  the  Moorish  women.  Some 
disorders  had  occurred,  and  some  of  their  houses  been  broken 
open  and  pillaged,  for  which  they  had  no  redress,  as  all  foreign 
consuls  were  absent. 

The  climate  here  is  delightful,  being  from  seventy  to  seventy- 
five  degrees  Fahrenheit,  and  never  varying  more  than  ten  degrees 
throughout  the  year. 

One  of  our  passengers,  an  English  merchant  long  in  this 
country,  had  left  his  house  in  possession  of  a  trusty  Moor,  and 
found  all  satisfactory.  Indeed,  the  residents  among  the  Moors 
have  more  to  apprehend  from  pillage  on  the  part  of  the  wild 
hordes  of  the  country,  than  from  those  of  the  city.  My  friend, 
at  whose  house  I  am,  will  not  remain,  although  he  speaks  Arabic, 
but  will  go  on  to  the  Canary  Islands  with  us,  with  the  intention 
of  returning  when  the  war  is  over.  Another  of  our  passengers, 
a  merchant,  who  was  born  in  a  Mohammedan  city,  will  remain 
and  take  his  chance. 

No  sooner  had  we  landed  than  we  were  surrounded  and  fol- 
lowed by  groups  of  friends  and  listeners,  who  followed  close  on 
our  heels  to  the  house,  which  was  closed  by  main  force  to  pre- 
vent intrusion.  Soon  after,  the  familiar  and  monotonous  songs 
of  the  Arabs,  accompanied  by  primitive  violins,  reached  my 
ears  from  the  gallery.  There  sat  five  musicians,  whose  music 
and  song  was  spiced  from  time  to  time  with  a  peculiar  howl  or 
whistle  from  two  blind  women,  which  I  at  first  took  for  the 
escape  of  steam  from  the  steamer. 

To  my  surprise  the  health  officer,  when  he  came  off,  spoke 
English  and  French.  He  looks  the  Moor  in  costume,  with  his 
patriarchal  white  beard,  and  is  now  seventy-six  years  of  age.  I 
have  been  to  his  house  to-day,  and  found  him  squatted,  legs 
crossed,  upon  a  divan,  taking  his  repast  of  tea,  instead  of  coffee, 
with  oranges,  dates,  raisins,  pomegranates,  and  a  liquor  which 
he  offered  us,  made  from  figs,  from  his  little  table  about  two  feet 
high.  His  father  was  an  Englishman  and  his  mother  a  Spanish 
woman.  He  has  been  forty-six  years  in  Morocco,  having  come 
as  interpreter  to  an  English  gentleman  who  wanted  to  travel  in 
the  interior,  and  was  there  murdered.  His  speaking  Arabic 
saved  him  from  the  same  fate.  When  the  war  broke  out  he 
sent  his  family  to  Gibraltar,  and  is  now  quite  alone. 


670  SANTA  CRUZ. 

CLYI. 

Bathuest,  River  Gambia,  West  Coast  of  Africa,  March  10, 1860. 

From  Mogadore  we  proceeded  to  the  island  of  Lance  rota,  one 
of  the  group  of  Canary  Islands,  landing  and  spending  part  of  a 
day  at  the  principal  town,  Arecife,  whence  the  island  of  Forte- 
ventura  is  in  plain  view. 

The  product  of  these  islands,  since  the  failure  of  the  grape 
crop,  consists  mostly  of  cochineal,  as  the  salubrity  and  uni- 
formity of  the  climate  are  admirably  adapted  to  the  raising  of  the 
cactus  plant  upon  which  the  insect  feeds.  The  principal  islands, 
Lancerota,  Teneriffe,  Gomera,  and  Falma,  contain  some  one  hun- 
dred and  eighty  thousand  population. 

My  immediate  destination  was  Santa  Cruz,  in  Teneriffe,  the 
capital  of  the  Canary  Islands,  and  the  seat  of  the  Spanish 
Governor.  The  approach  to  the  well  whitewashed  town,  with 
its  large  roadstead,  backed  by  high  mountains  of  hard  basalt 
and  soft  pumice  stone,  of  which  it  is  built,  is  very  picturesque. 
In  the  distance  looms  up  the  Peak  of  Teneriffe,  said  to  be  fifteen 
thousand  feet  high.  The  atmosphere  was  clear  and  soft,  and 
overcoats  and  cloaks  were  no  longer  needed.  They  have  had 
an  unusually  wet  season,  and  apprehend  a  loss  from  excess  of 
humidity  in  a  climate  where  it  rains  usually  so  little. 

Here  I  found  several  Germans,  who  had  spent  most  of  the 
winter  in  Madeira,  four  degrees  further  north,  and  give  the  pre- 
ference to  this  climate.  The  accommodations,  apartments,  and 
society  I  have  found  better  there  than  here. 

The  town  is  clean  and  well  paved,  with  good  roads,  and  a  fair 
hotel.  The  island  is  evidentl}'-  volcanic,  as  the  wild  and  irregular 
masses  of  rock  around  the  town  testify. 

Camels  are  here  used  as  beasts  of  burden,  showing  conclu- 
sively they  can  be  employed  over  similar  roads  on  the  overland 
routes  in  the  United  States,  as  well  as  on  the  sands  of  the 
desert. 

My  intention  was,  if  I  arrived  in  time  at  Santa  Cruz,  which  I 
had  before  visited  some  years  since,  to  take  the  West  African 
Coast  steamer  for  the  Gambia  river,  and  from  thence  down  to 
Sierra  Leone.  In  this  I  was  not  disappointed  ;  after  a  few  days' 
delay   I  embarked.     The    steamer  from  Fernando  Po,  on  her 


BATHURST.  571 

return  touched  at  all  tlie  ports  along  tlie  Grain,  Ivory,  and  Gold 
Coasts  of  Guinea,  and  several  passengers  were  landed  and  lodged 
at  our  hotel.  They  reported  the  season  as  being  most  favorable 
for  a  visit ;  the  fevers,  which  had  desolated  the  settlements, 
existed  no  longer :  but  their  yellow  and  jaundiced  appearance 
was  not  encouraging  for  the  traveller.  Having  been  so  much  in 
tropical  climates,  and  having  had  much  experience  in  fevers,  I 
hope  to  pass  unscathed. 

On  board  of  the  good  screw  steamer  Athenian,  with  favorable 
breezes  and  increasing  heat,  in  four  days  we  made  Bathurst,  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Gambia  River,  one  thousand  miles  from  Tene- 
riffe.  The  approach  to  this  English  colony  up  the  broad  serpen- 
tine river  is  directed  by  a  negro  pilot. 

The  public  and  private  buildings  are  well  and  substantially 
built.  The  beach  on  one  side  is  sandy,  and  the  tide  leaves  a  road 
bed  for  equestrians  at  the  ebb.  The  date,  mango,  and  other  tro- 
pical trees  give  the  place  a  picturesque  appearance.  The  garri- 
son is  composed  of  English  officers,  and  native  black  soldiery. 
The  epidemic  has  made  sad  work  among  the  whites;  out  of 
seventy-one,  twenty-one  died. 

The  negro  population  is  upwards  of  five  thousand,  who  live 
in  reed  huts,  upon  streets  laid  out  at  right  angles,  the  different 
tribes  in  their  respective  quarters.  They  present  a  curious  sight 
for  the  European,  a  fair  proportion  requiring  only  the  garments 
of  our  first  parents,  Adam  and  Eve.  Mothers  carry  their  young, 
not  unlike  the  squaws  of  our  Indian  tribes,  upon  their  backs,  but 
with  this  difference,  that  the  little  black  urchin  is  nestled  in  the 
folds  of  a  cotton  shawl  or  girdle  around  the  waist,  the  child  being 
in  the  hollow  of  the  back.  The  little  boys  and  girls  instead  of 
clothing  are  supplied  with  strings  of  beads  and  amulets,  as  orna- 
ments, and  to  keep  away  the  evil  spirit. 

The  river  is  navigable  beyond  Macarthy  island  to  the  cataracts, 
which  are  some  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  from  its  mouth, 
and  trading  stations  are  found  as  high  up.  There  are  some  thir- 
teen tribes  under  different  chiefs,  and  several  different  languages 
and  dialects  are  spoken.  The  country  is  unsafe  to  travel  in  with- 
out a  sufficient  force  for  protection.  It  was  here  that  Mungo 
Park,  the  renowned  traveller,  commenced  his  explorations,  and 
it  is  supposed  that  he  was  killed  on  the  Niger,  after  losing  his 
soldiers  and  marines  by  fever  and  exhaustion.     One  of  our  fellow 


572  DOWN-EASTERS. 

passengers,  a  colonel  in  the  service,  owned  a  farm  ten  miles  from 
the  town ;  his  house  was  attacked,  several  killed,  and  he  had  a 
narrow  escape. 

I  find  much  hospitality  on  the  part  of  the  inhabitants,  which 
is  quite  natural  when  they  have  a  steamer  from  Europe  at  long 
intervals.  The  Governor  of  Gambia,  Col.  D'Arcy,  and  his  inte- 
resting wife,  to  whom  I  was  recommended,  offered  me  their  house. 
I  dined  with  them  and  passed  an  evening ;  breakfasted  with  our 
consul,  a  Brazilian  by  birth  ;  visited  several  other  of  the  promi- 
nent residents;  and  rode  some  miles  along  the  coast,  passing  by 
the  English  burying  ground,  which  seemed  fast  filling  up.  The 
government  house  belongs  to  the  crown.  It  is  a  fine  mansion, 
pleasantly  situated  among  tropical  trees  and  flowering  plants. 
Negro  soldiers  as  sentinels  at  the  gate  reminded  me  in  this  parti- 
cular of  the  entrance  to  Soulouque's  palace  in  the  island  of 
Hayti. 

A  number  of  French  vessels  are  in  port  loading  with  ground 
nuts  for  making  oil ;  many  dry  hides  are  also  shipped.  The  trade 
of  Senegal,  the  French  colony,  lying  farther  north,  is  of  consi- 
derable importance.  I  find  here  a  small  vessel  loading  with  pea- 
nuts, or  ground  nuts,  for  Boston ;  she  hails  from  Salem.  The 
down-easters  are  the  most  enterprising  mariners  in  the  world. 
They  are  met  with  in  the  most  remote  quarters  of  the  globe.  I 
have  found  them  where  I  thought  no  trade  could  be  furnished — 
up  the  Eed  Sea,  the  Island  of  Sumatra,  Zanzibar,  and  other 
places,  picking  up  coffee,  spices,  gums,  and  all  sorts  of  products, 
in  exchange  for  hard  biscuits,  coarse  cotton  cloth,  lumber,  wooden 
clocks,  and  an  infinity  of  Yankee  notions.  The  captain  of  this 
small  vessel  is  quite  a  youth  ;  he  had  his  head  cut  and  his  nose 
broken  by  a  mutinous  sailor,  but  he  came  off  victorious. 

While  at  Tenerifife,  the  war  steamer  San  Jacinto,  belonging  to 
the  American  squadron,  watching  the  African  slave  coast,  came 
in  port.  She  was  proceeding  to  Cadiz  for  repairs,  as  her  machi- 
nery was  out  of  order,  and  the  nearest  point  was  Spain.  Capt. 
Armstrong  was  in  command.  Several  of  the  ofl&cers  were  from 
our  state.  They  had  been  cruising  eight  months,  and,  as  you  can 
imagine,  were  pleased  to  meet  with  one  who  could  give  direct 
news  from  Europe  and  the  United  States. 


SIEKRA  LEONE.  673 


CLVII. 

Sierra  Leone,  West  Coast  of  Africa,  March  14,  1860. 
Two  days'  steaming  brought  us  from  Bathurst,  Gambia  river, 
to  this,  the  oldest  English  settlement  on  the  west  coast  of  Africa. 
It  is  situated  upon  a  broad  bay  at  the  entrance  of  the  Sierra 
Leone  river,  with  high  hills  and  peaks  in  the  distance.  The  soil 
looks  reddish,  like  that  of  New  Jersey,  but  is  thoroughly  charged 
with  iron.  The  vegetation  is  decidedly  tropical,  producing 
palm  oil,  ginger,  spices,  gum,  bread-fruit,  oranges,  bananas,  pine- 
apples, etc.     The  heat  is  oppressive. 

The  fever  epidemic  has  destroyed  fifty-eight  out  of  ninety- 
eight  white  residents  within  thirty  days.  The  Catholic  mission  is 
closed,  the  bishop  and  the  priests  under  his  charge  having  died. 
The  other  missions  also  suffered,  but  not  to  the  same  extent. 
One  of  the  prominent  colored  missionaries  of  the  English 
Episcopal  church  I  found  to  be  a  native  of  Charleston,  South 
Carolina.     He  had  lost  his  white  German  wife  by  fever. 

I  visited  the  schools  for  the  education  of  the  young  males  and 
females,  and  found  them  getting  on  very  well  in  their  studies. 
The  sons  of  negroes  who  have  been  slaves  in  other  countries,  and 
who  are  traders  and  general,  dealers,  appreciate  the  importance 
of  education  ;  but  those  of  the  villages  and  in  the  suburbs  live 
in  that  listless  manner  characteristic  of  the  negro.  They  perform 
but  little  labor,  sufficient  only  to  procure  rum  and  tobacco  as 
luxuries,  for  nature  furnishes  yams  and  other  necessaries  of  life 
without  much  effort,  preferring  to  bask  and  sleep  in  the  raj^s  of 
the  broiling  sun,  which  are  death  to  the  white  man. 

The  French  consul,  to  whom  I  had  a  letter  and  with  whom  I 
dined,  drove  me  to  his  villa  on  the  shore,  some  miles  from  town, 
a  beautiful  spot,  where  nature  appeared  in  all  her  loveliness; 
but  the  insidious  fever  had  closed  the  mission  edifice  in  the 
neighborhood.  We  drove  through  villages  at  different  times  and 
in  different  directions  up  and  down  the  coast,  among  hedges  of 
lime  trees  twenty  feet  high,  filled  with  fruit,  resembling  the  wild 
vegetation  of  Venezuela.  The  umbrella-topped  palm  grows  in 
])rofusion.  The  oleander  and  other  hot-house  plants  with  us, 
standing  fifteen  feet  high,  in  bloom,  as  in  the  West  Indies; 
pine-apple  bushes  laden  with  fruit  are  growing  in  a  wild  state ; 


574  AFKICAN   FEVER. 

and  the  wide-spreading  branches  of  the  mango  offer  opportunity 
for  repose,  but  the  threatened  fever  for  the  white  man  breaks  the 
charm. 

The  African  fever  this  year  has  carried  off  thousands  of  the 
negroes  also.  The  present  population,  mostly  black,  is  computed 
to  be  forty  thousand.  The  garrison  is  English,  but  the  ofiicers  only 
are  white,  the  soldiery  consisting  of  natives  and  captured  slaves, 
who  are  apprenticed.  The  vessels  in  the  harbor  during  the  epi- 
demic, a  few  months  since,  lost  in  some  cases  captains,  officers, 
crews,  and  even  the  cats  on  board,  leaving  the  vessel  riding  alone 
at  anchor.     We  don't  sleep  ashore  as  yet  on  any  occasion. 

The  few  white  residents  left  are  most  hospitable,  and  my 
letters  were  such  as  to  furnish  all  the  civilities  the  settlement  can 
afford.  A  wealthy  German  merchant,  who  has  a  native  wife,  as 
most  persons  have  on  the  African  coast,  did  all  the  honors  for  the 
Vaterland,  a  German  missionary,  whom  I  knew  at  Teneriffe,  and 
who  had  left  for  his  health,  having  given  me  letters. 

The  thermometer  stands  at  from  eighty-eight  to  ninety-seven 
in  the  shade,  so  that  a  piece  of  ice  from  the  steamer,  sent  as  a 
present  by  the  officers  of  our  ship  to  their  friends  and  acquaint- 
ances, is  esteemed  a  great  luxury.  "White  umbrellas  are  in 
vogue. 

The  next  steamer  will  bring  out  the  new  Governor  and  Eng- 
lish Bishop,  his  predecessor  being  dead.  The  Spanish  consul 
and  vice-consul  both  died,  and  the  acting  French  consul  has  just 
been  decorated  by  the  Spanish  Queen  for  services  rendered 
during  the  crisis. 

The  English  steamer  Pluto  is  in  port,  having  just  returned 
from  St.  Helena  after  the  capture  of  the  American  bark  Orion 
with  eight  hundred  and  fifty  slaves.  These  are  apprenticed  for 
a  number  of  years,  and  a  bounty  of  five  pounds  or  twenty-five 
dollars  her  head  is  paid  to  the  officers  of  the  ship  by  the  English 
government  in  addition  to  the  thirty-five  shillings  per  ton  upon 
the  hull.  The  vessels  are  then  condemned  and  sawn  in  two. 
Several  such  half  hulks  lie  on  the  beach  here.  I  noticed  two 
American  schooners  in  port,  fine  rakish  looking  vessels,  appear- 
ing as  if  they  were  for  what  they  call  here  the  "  black-bird 
trade."  Our  American  officers,  whom  I  met  in  the  Canary 
islands,  complain  that  they  cannot  get  prizes,  as  the  English 
have  spies  all  along  the  coast  and  get  information,  which  thej 


SLAVERS.  575 

can  afford  to  pay  for,  as  John  Bull  pays  such  large  prize  money, 
while  our  people  pay  only  in  sympathy. 

An  amusing  incident  has  just  occurred.  A  negro  soldier  came 
on  deck  and  handed  me  a  note.  I  found  he  spoke  but  little 
English  jargon,  which  the  negroes  use,  and  I  asked  him  where  he 
came  from.  He  said  he  was  a  captured  slave,  and  now  received 
half-pay  for  military  service.  At  that  moment  he  recognised  a 
Portuguese  passenger  as  the  man  who  had  sold  him  on  the  coast. 
His  eye  glistened  with  anger  as  he  spoke  to  the  person,  and  said, 
"  You  sold  me."  The  Portuguese  could  not  recollect  him,  as  he 
was  one  out  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  which  he  admitted  he 
bought,  and  sold  at  a  profit  of  twenty-eight  dollars  per  head. 
On  further  conversation,  the  negro  admitted  that  he  was  now 
very  glad  of  the  change. 

The  brig  Harris,  an  American,  has  lately  been  taken.  The 
English  had  watched  the  vessel  for  a  long  time  as  suspicious, 
and,  in  fact,  knew  what  it  was  up  to,  but  it  is  policy  for  them  to 
wait  until  the  negroes  are  on  board  ;  thus  they  get  apprentices 
and  the  bounty  money.  In  the  evening  the  Englishman  visited 
the  ship,  the  cargo  was  already  on  board,  the  hatches  closed,  and 
some  negroes  lying  on  deck,  who  were  reported  as  native  sailors 
of  the  coast.  The  crew  were  pulling  the  tails  of  pigs  to  make 
them  squeal,  to  prevent  the  hearing  of  noise  from  the  hold, 
where  officers  stood  with  revolvers,  threatening  the  negroes  if 
they  did  not  keep  quiet.  The  hatches  were  down  twenty 
minutes.  The  commander  left,  satisfied  that  the  game  was  not 
yet  bagged,  and  went  away,  when  an  English  captain  informed 
him  that  he  had  seen  the  negroes  going  on  board.  Had  it  not 
been  for  this  information  the  American  would  have  been  off.  He 
was  watched,  boarded,  and  commanded  to  haul  down  his  flag 
and  give  up  his  papers.  The  American  denied  the  right  to  board 
him,  according  to  treaty.  Then,  said  the  commander,  I  will 
detain  you  until  I  find  an  American  cruizer,  and  you  will  be 
delivered  up  and  tried  as  a  pirate.  The  effect  was  produced,  and 
a  compromise  took  place.  The  Englishman  turned  his  back,  the 
flag  was  hauled  down,  and  the  papers  were  thrown  overboard, 
officers  and  men  permitted  to  leave  with  their  effects,  and  the 
vessel  seized  as  a  prize,  without  nationality  of  papers,  or  flag. 


576  HAEPER. 


CLYIII. 

Cape  Coast  Castle,  "West  Coast  of  Africa,  March  18,  1860, 
On  our  departure  fi-om  Sierra  Leone,  we  proceeded  down  the 
coast  of  Liberia,  and  landed  at  Harper,  Cape  Palmas,  I  found 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Ramba  in  charge  of  the  Missionary  Establishment. 
There  were  two  young  ladies  who  had  recently  arrived  from  the 
United  States.  One  of  them  had  not  recovered  from  the  African 
fever.  I  found  there,  in  the  little  town,  many  manumitted  slaves 
from  Kentucky,  Virginia,  and  Maryland,  with  whom  I  conversed ; 
also,  some  of  the  recaptured  slaves  from  the  brig  Echo,  w^hich 
were  sent  out  by  the  frigate  Niagara.  The  United  States 
Government  pay  one  year's  schooling,  and  those  unable  to  take 
care  of  themselves  are  apprenticed.  I  was  invited  to  dine  by 
the  family  who  occupy  the  Asylum  building's,  erected  by  the 
Protestant  Episcopal  Society  of  the  United  States.  The  position 
is  most  commanding  and  elevated,  on  a  promontory  bathed  by 
the  rolling  surf,  with  tropical  fruits  and  flowers  in  the  background. 
But  notwithstanding  its  advantageous  location,  the  malignant 
fever  of  Africa  finds  its  way.  Being  in  a  country  where  no  dis- 
tinction is  made  in  color,  I  find  myself  at  table  with  white  and 
black  missionaries  and  their  wives,  reminding  me  of  my  pere- 
grinations in  the  island  of  Hayti,  where  my  table  companions  in 
some  outside  villages  were  only  of  the  sable  hue.  You  are 
aware  that  the  English  and  French  are  unlike  the  Americans  in 

O 

their  prejudices  in  this  particular.  On  board  our  steamer,  we 
have  had  in  the  first  cabin,  and  at  table,  practical  amalgamation. 
Foreigners  have  native  wives,  and  you  find  children  running 
about  of  every  dye.  It  goes  even  further,  in  the  marriage  of 
white  women  with  black  men. 

Liberia,  you  are  aware,  is  a  republic,  having  its  President, 
Senators,  and  Representatives,  The  towns  are  mostly  occupied 
by  the  native  population,  whose  wants  are  quite  limited,  as  is  the 
case  with  the  black  race  generally  in  this  country,  whose  dress 
consists  at  most  of  a  small  handkerchief  or  a  string  of  pearls 
about  the  loins.  The  incentive  to  labor  is  slight,  and  the  efforts 
of  the  missionaries  meet  with  little  success ;  and  unless  through 
some  special  providence,  this  benighted  coast  can  make  but  little 
progress.     An  intelligent  mulatto  woman  came  down  with  us  to 


A   SMART   CAPTAIN.  577 

Cape  Coast  Castle,  in  the  cabin.  She  was  from  Savannah, 
Georgia.  She  had  come  over  with  her  husband,  to  visit  her 
father  and  mother,  who  had  emigrated  to  Liberia,  and  died  with 
fever.  She  had  lost  her  husband  by  the  same  disease,  and 
wished  herself  back  again.  She  remarked,  that  at  times  she  had 
hopes  for  the  Colony,  and  then  again  felt  discouraged,  as  many 
of  the  manumitted  slaves,  instead  of  showing  an  example  to  the 
heathen,  fell  into  their  vices.  The  trade  of  Liberia  is  very 
limited ;  and,  were  it  not  for  the  Colonization  Society,  their  case 
now  might  be  hopeless.  They  have  a  small  war  schooner,  pre- 
sented by  the  British  Government ;  one  schooner,  called  the  Mon- 
rovia, was  in  port,  which  trades  with  the  United  States.  I  must 
here  mention  a  circumstance  which  occurred  in  sending  over  a 
parcel  of  manumitted  negroes  from  New  Orleans.  A  philan- 
thropic captain  offered  to  bring  over  the  party  for  a  nominal 
sum ;  he  supplied  himself  with  water  casks  well  filled,  and 
abundant  provisions  for  a  long  voyage,  and  returning  with  ample 
berth  accommodations.  Of  course  he  obtained  his  clearance 
for  such  a  benevolent  object  without  difficulty,  landed  the 
released  blacks,  ran  down  the  coast,  filled  up  with  slaves,  and 
landed  his  cargo  of  human  flesh  on  the  island  of  Cuba ! 

We  proceed  along,  down  to  the  Dutch  town  and  fort  of  Elmina, 
and  the  English  fort  and  town  of  Cape  Coast  Castle,  on  the  Gold 
Coast.  The  surf  and  breakers  along  this  coast  at  times  are 
frightful ;  but  the  naked  natives,  in  boats  dug  out  of  the  trunks 
of  trees,  containing  from  ten  to  fifteen  persons,  with  side  oars  or 
paddles,  not  unlike  huge  wooden  shovels,  swarm  around  the 
ship,  and  carry  you  ashore  through  the  foaming  billows.  Once 
the  beach  struck,  they  jump  in  the  water  to  draw  the  boat  up, 
and  then  carry  you  on  their  backs  to  dry  land.  The  Dutch 
Governor,  six  miles  above  here,  has  just  visited  the  English 
Governor,  and  held  what  is  termed  a  Palaver  with  the  Queen  of 
Assin,  who  was  escorted  by  bands  of  nearly  naked  negro  troops 
or  subjects,  with  the  most  wild  and  discordant  music  from  tom- 
toms or  kettle-drums,  reed  flutes,  frightful  sounding  gongs,  ring- 
ing of  small  bells,  etc.,  amid  the  yells  and  shouts  of  this  mad- 
dened crew.  Another  body  of  Bushmen,  who  were  going  to  war 
with  a  neighboring  tribe,  were  congregating  with  their  muskets, 
which  they  are  all  provided  with  ;  they  had  been  parading  with 
a  white  umbrella  over  the  captain's  head,  under  a  vertical  sun, 

37 


578  EUM   AND   TOBACCO. 

■with  as  much  veneration  as  the  carrying  of  the  Host  over  the 
head  of  the  Pope,  in  the  church  ceremonies  of  Rome.  At 
length  they  bivouacked  under  the  shade  of  a  wide-spread  mango 
tree,  where  rum,  the  usual  beverage  of  the  natives,  was  passed 
around,  amid  the  shouts,  laughter,  and  war  songs  of  these  half 
savages,  much  to  the  edification  of  a  half  dozen  slave  girls,  who 
were  peeping  over  a  wall  adjoining. 

Ships  come  down  to  the  coast  of  Guinea  from  Boston  and  New 
York,  loaded  with  the  two  staples  of  negro  luxury,  rum  and 
tobacco ;  but  I  am  sorry  to  learn  that  some  of  those  people  who 
cry  out  so  strongly  against  our  domestic  institution  of  the  South, 
and  would  willingly  sacrifice  our  beloved  Union,  lend  them- 
selves to  the  slave  trade,  in  furnishing  empty  rum  casks  to 
slavers,  which  are  filled  with  water,  and  get  a  clearance  from 
the  Custom  House,  as  if  engaged  in  legitimate  traffic ;  thereby 
enabling  them  to  run  along  the  coast  for  the  sale  of  articles  with- 
out suspicion,  when  they  fill  up  with  slaves  and  start  for  Cuba. 

The  soil  here  abounds  with  particles  of  gold,  which  the 
natives  wash  when  their  daily  wants  require  small  means,  but 
they  are  destitute  of  the  merit  of  perseverance  unless  forced  to 
it.  The  white  population  consists  here  of  only  a  few  officers  in 
the  fort,  supported  by  native  or  apprenticed  soldiers.  The 
native  houses  or  huts  are  of  wicker  or  reed  work,  plastered  with 
mud  and  covered  with  palm  leaves  or  branches.  The  Wesleyan 
missionaries  have  a  fine,  eligible  establishment.  I  found  three 
of  their  number  here  present,  as  also  some  native  preachers  and 
teachers.  One  of  the  number  is  the  nephew  to  the  king  of  the 
Ashantees.  He  had  been  sent  to  England  for  an  education. 
They  were  well  provided  with  the  good  things  of  this  life  in 
eating  and  drinking,  which  they  are  entitled  to  in  this  barbarous 
country. 

I  saw  sheep  and  goats  on  the  grounds — some  monkeys  chat- 
tering about ;  large  numbers  are  found  in  the  woods ;  the  natives 
are  fond  of  them,  and  their  skins  are  an  article  of  exportation, 
for  ladies'  muffi?. 

We  have  had  a  melancholy  duty  to  perform :  one  of  our  fellow 
passengers,  who  occupied  a  state  room  opposite  to  me,  died  night 
before  last.  He  was  a  physician,  who  could  not  heal  himself 
according  to  the  -command  in  Scripture.  Our  number  of  passen- 
gers was  now  reduced  to  four.     He  had  supped  with  us,  and 


A   FUNERAL.  679 

two  hours  after  was  a  corpse.  I  felt  it  a  duty  to  assist  in  per- 
forming the  last  rites  of  a  Christian  burial,  not  knowing  but 
others  might  be  called  upon  to  perform  a  similar  service  for  one 
seven  thousand  miles  from  home.  The  ship  carpenter  made  a 
rude  pine  coffin,  which  was  covered  with  the  English  union  jack. 
We  solicited  the  offices  of  a  missionary,  but  whether  from  the 
sudden  shock,  or  fear  of  fever,  I  know  not,  but  I  found  myself 
the  only  passenger  among  the  group  following  his  mortal  remains 
to  the  white  man's  little  graveyard,  carried  upon  the  shoulders 
of  negroes.  The  captain,  purser,  first  engineer,  and  myself, 
stood  with  white  umbrellas  under  a  broiling  sun,  the  parched 
earth  almost  blistering  our  feet,  until  the  burial  service  was  read 
by  the  officiating  Episcopal  clergyman  in  his  white  robes.  It 
was  the  mournful  sight  of  a  Christian  burial  in  strong  contrast 
■with  the  listless,  idle,  and  gazing  groups  of  dark,  naked  figures, 
which  curiosity  had  attracted  to  the  spot.  A  civil  engineer  in 
the  Government  employ,  was  the  only  resident  who  joined  us  in 
the  funeral,  and  to  whose  house  we  adjourned  after  the  ceremo- 
nies were  over ;  we  were  provided  with  refreshments,  which  we 
stood  in  need  of. 

Many  forts  along  the  coast,  which  once  amounted  to  thirty, 
have  fallen  into  decay ;  they  were  used  for  slave  factories,  and 
were  in  the  possession  of  the  Portuguese,  the  Dutch,  the  Danes, 
and  the  English,  to  provide  the  Colonies  with  slaves. 

We  proceed  to  Acra,  further  along  the  coast,  in  possession  of 
the  Dutch  and  English,  and  thence  to  the  territory  of  the  king 
of  Dahomy,  who  is  now  waging  war  to  procure  slaves  for  the 
annual  sacrifice,  and  I  may  be  able  to  give  you  some  of  these 
barbarous  statistics. 


CLIX. 

Steamer  Athenien,  off  Lagos,  West  Coast  op  Africa, 
March  23,  1860. 

After  visiting  the  Grain,  Ivory,  and  Gold  Coasts,  and  the 
territory  of  the  king  of  Dahomy,  we  now  find  ourselves  off  the 
formidable  breakers  of  Lagos.  The  mail  bags  we  headed  up  in 
a  puncheon,  in  the  event  of  capsizing  the  native  boat.  The  land- 
ing is  so  unsafe,  and  being  probably  the  worst  on  the  coast  of 
Africa,  none  of  us  are  allowed  to  make  the  attempt.     Two  pas- 


580  ACRA. 

sengers  from  Acra  go  on  board  of  vessels  lying  outside,  at  anclior, 
until  a  more  favorable  opportunity  oifers.  Sometimes  no  landing 
is  effected  for  weeks.  The  sharks  are  so  abundant  that  they 
upset  crews  of  natives,  and  strangers  are  often  lost. 

Acra,  our  next  landing-place  after  Cape  Coast  Castle,  is  one- 
half  occupied  by  the  English  fort  and  native  town,  and  the 
other  half  by  a  Dutch  fort  and  settlement.  The  resident 
traders  complain  of  the  want  of  commerce,  as  the  king  of  the 
country,  whom  the  English  had  punished  and  laid  under  tribute 
of  ten  thousand  pounds,  payable  in  palm  oil,  at  fixed  prices, 
would  not  execute  the  payment.  I  there  found  two  merchants 
from  Cape  Coast,  who  had  bought  the  contract,  &c.,  which  the 
king  now  rejects.  It  remains  to  be  seen  if  the  British  will 
enforce  it. 

The  Danes  were  in  possession  of  a  large  fort  at  Christianborg, 
a  few  miles  from  Acra,  whicb  they  have  sold  to  the  English  for 
the  nominal  sum  of  five  thousand  pounds.  The  Commandant 
of  the  English  fort  politely  offered  me  his  horse,  and  a  recom- 
mendation to  the  officer  in  command,  which  I  accepted,  and 
found,  in  the  absence  of  the  Governor,  only  one  officer  and  the 
doctor  of  the  station.  Five  officers  had  died  of  the  African 
fever,  and  the  soldiery  consisted  of  one  hundred  and  thirteen 
negroes.  The  town  looked  abandoned,  and  in  part  battered 
down,  as  the  native  tribes  had  attacked  the  fort,  which  is  well 
mounted  with  small  brass  guns.  They  were  soon  put  to  flight, 
and  the  broken  walls  of  the  village  indicated  the  result. 

The  fort  is  eligibly  situated ;  the  sand  was  scorching  hot,  but 
the  Seabreeze  in  the  shade  was  cool  and  refreshing;  the  surf 
was  rolling  in  strongly,  and  hundreds  of  negroes  were  in  it 
bathing.  The  little  cemetery,  as  I  passed,  showed  the  new- 
made  graves  ;  the  African  ants  had  thrown  up,  hastily,  pyramids 
of  a  conical  form,  ten  feet  in  height. 

Notwithstanding  the  curious  scenes  to  occupy  the  mind,  and 
the  white  umbrellas  as  a  protection  from  heat,  I  felt  the  blood 
boiling  in  my  veins,  and  if  I  had  given  way  to  my  emotions, 
would  have  fancied  the  fever  was  upon  me. 

In  Acra,  I  met  with  a  Yankee  trader,  whose  house  was  situated 
among  and  surrounded  by  the  huts  of  the  natives.  The  walls  of 
the  court  inclosed  his  cooperage  and  his  buildings  for  palm-oil 
casks,  and  supplies  of  rum,,  tobacco,,  and  notions. 


THE    KING   OF   DAHOMEY.  581 

A  groap  of  nearly  naked  boys  and  girls  were  counting  cowrie 
shells  from  Zanzibar,  which  furnishes  small  currency,  and  which 
are  separated  in  little  parcels  with  great  alacrity.  They  are 
there  worth  forty  to  the  cent,  or  four  thousand  to  the  dollar. 
They  are  also  strung  as  beads,  and  worn  about  the  neck  and  loins 
by  both  sexes. 

The  Yankee  looked  sallow,  as  if  the  African  climate  was 
doing  its  work;  but  the  desire  of  gain  is  an  incentive  suffi- 
cient for  the  white  man  to  try  to  live  in  a  climate  which  nature 
designed  only  for  the  black  race. 

The  king  of  Dahomy,  whose  capital  is  about  ninety  miles  from 
the  coast,  permits  no  forts  in  his  dominions.  Whydah  and  Bada- 
gry  have  been  famous  for  the  slave  trade.  When  the  late  king 
died  some  six  hundred  slaves  were  buried  alive  with  him.  They 
were  made  drunk  and  then  driven  into  an  excavated  grotto  or 
prison  house,  which  was  then  walled  up.  I  here  give  you  a  list 
of  the  articles  and  objects  deposited  on  the  occasion  of  the  fune- 
ral from  an  eye-witness : 

Ten  pieces  of  silk,  five  dozen  country  cloths,  twenty  guns, 
eight  bags  of  cowrie  shells,  two  boxes  soap,  male  and  female 
slave,  as  present  from  the  Yavogah  of  Whydah,  scarfs,  table 
cloths,  satin,  silk  handkerchiefs,  velvets,  carpets,  packages  of 
unbleached  shirting,  a  present  from  the  great  slaver  Domingo,  a 
cocked  hat  and  plume,  gold  chains,  slippers,  ten  puncheons  of 
rum,  forty  kegs  of  powder,  another  male  and  femal-e  slave,  with 
letter  to  the  deceased  king,  in  addition  to  the  six  or  eight  hundred 
already  mentioned. 

The  king  of  Dahomy  is  now  at  war  with  his  neighbors  to  pro- 
cure prisoners  and  slaves  for  the  anniversary  custom  of  sacrifices 
and  consecration  to  the  memory  of  the  late  king.  All  the  whites 
within  his  territory  on  the  coast  are  invited  and  commanded  to 
be  present  at  the  sacrifices.  All  resident  traders  and  vessels  are 
compelled  to  pay  tonnage  dues  for  the  privilege  of  trade,  or  make 
presents  to  the  king.  A  Portuguese  whom  we  landed  from  the 
steamer,  and  who  had  delivered  a  cargo  of  negroes  in  Havana, 
for  which  he  obtained  one  thousand  dollars  per  head,  and  which 
had  cost  from  twenty-five  to  forty  dollars,  had  four  trunks  of 
valuable  goods,  comprising  rich  crimson  velvets,  and  other  arti- 
cles, as  presents  for  the  king. 

He  is  said  to  have  some  twenty-five  thousand  warriors,  and  a 


582  CAPTAIN  FITZROY. 

body-guard  of  eight  thousand  Amazons,  with  a  vast  number  of 
wives  in  addition.  He  also  possesses  extensive  buildings  and 
palaces,  all  of  which  have  been  contributed  without  doubt  by  the 
whites  in  the  way  of  trade,  or  for  the  purchase  of  slaves. 

If  a  vessel  is  wrecked,  or  goes  ashore,  the  whole  property 
belongs  to  the  king,  and  the  officers  and  crew  are  sent  up  to  his 
capital.  A  Hamburg  brig  just  wrecked  lost  everything,  and  the 
captain  and  crew  would  have  been  sent  up,  had  not  the  king  been 
absent  making  war  for  slaves.  We  found  three  of  the  crew  on 
board  of  an  American  brig  now  in  the  offing. 

The  captain  of  the  brig  Jehosse  has  just  come  on  board  of  us 
from  the  American  trading  barque  Baron  de  Castine,  whose 
supercargo  we  brought  down  from  Acra.  The  former  captain 
had  died  and  been  replaced ;  the  present  captain  was  also  sick, 
but  under  the  care  of  the  doctor  of  the  British  steamer  Viper. 
He  represents  that  he  came  out  with  lumber  and  provisions  from 
Charleston,  S.  C,  and  was  on  a  legitimate  trading  voyage,  when 
he  was  boarded  by  Captain  Fitzroy,  of  the  British  steamer 
Falcon,  who  demanded  his  register  and  list  of  crew,  which  were 
given  up,  who  declared  him  to  be  a  slaver,  and  ordered  him  to 
haul  down  his  flag,  which  he  refused ;  he  was  then  ordered  to 
open  his  box  of  private  papers,  which  he  also  refused.  A  prize 
crew  was  ordered  on  board,  and  himself  and  crew  sent  as 
prisoners  on  board  the  steamer.  The  men  were  stripped  and 
examined,  the  captain's  box  broken  open  and  papers  examined. 
The  clearances,  &c.,  were  all  found  legal,  and  the  captain  and 
crew  released.  He  protested  against  a  release,  but  was  put  on 
his  vessel,  where  he  found  his  liquors  all  drunk,  cigars  smoked, 
prize  crew  drunk,  and  the  vessel  in  danger  of  beaching  in  the 
kingdom  of  Dahomy.  The  officer  in  command  of  the  prize 
crew  begged  of  him  to  come  to  his  relief,  and  gave  a  certificate 
to  that  effect.  The  brig  has  waited  fifty  or  sixty  days  for  an 
American  cruiser,  but  not  finding  one  to  take  up  the  case,  the 
captain  sends  his  vessel  to  the  United  States  as  abandoned,  and 
takes  our  steamer  to  catch  an  American  man-of-war  before 
which  to  bring  his  case. 

It  will  be  a  serious  matter  for  Captain  Fitzroy,  who  is  repre- 
sented as  a  dissipated  commander,  of  aristocratic  family,  but 
will  now  probably  lose  his  commission,  and  the  British  govern- 
ment will  pay  heavy  damages. 


BONNY  KIVER.  583 

A  singular  custom  prevails  among  the  natives  of  the  coast. 
I  asked  particularly  the  details  of  a  black  missionary.  Every 
man  has  a  lien  upon  his  nephews  and  nieces,  and  can  pawn  them 
for  debt,  or  sell  them  into  slavery,  but  this  right  he  cannot  exer- 
cise over  his  own  children.  In  the  event  of  the  death  of  a 
person,  his  property  goes  to  his  sister,  as  next  of  kin.  She  or 
her  husband  takes  care  of  the  children,  and  if  occasion  demand, 
they  are  made  slaves,  or  pawned. 


CLX. 

Bonny  River,  Gulf  of  Guinea,  March  27,  1860. 

From  Lagos,  our  steamer  proceeded  to  the  river  Benin,  landed 
some  cargo,  and  received  forty-two  puncheons  of  palm  oil.  We 
there  found  a  Hamburg  ship,  just  in  from  Zanzibar,  on  the  coast 
of  Africa,  with  a  full  cargo  of  cowrie  shells,  used  for  currency 
and  ornaments.  The  shores  are  here  monotonous ;  the  vegeta- 
tion is  rank,  as  well  as  at  the  mouth  of  the  Niger,  which  we 
passed  on  our  way  to  this  place. 

A  project  is  on  foot  for  a  new  expedition  up  the  Niger,  the 
former  expedition  on  the  part  of  the  British  government  having 
met  with  disaster.  "We  have  a  disabled  steward  now  on  board, 
who  accompanied  these  adventurers  ;  he  is  as  yellow  as  a  mari- 
gold, and  the  seeds  of  fever  in  him  will  probably  never  be 
eradicated. 

The  entrance  to  Bonny  river  is  difficult,  and  requires  watchful 
navigation.  We  brought  on  deck  a  huge  iron  riveted  air-tight 
boiler,  to  be  used  as  a  buoy  or  guide  to  mariners  passing  the  bar, 
and  came  near  losing  it,  as  well  as  our  vessel. 

Sunday  morning.  May  25th,  according  to  usual  custom  on 
board  of  British  vessels,  the  Church  of  England  service  was 
read  in  the  presence  of  crew  and  passengers ;  and  I  was  quite 
interested  in  noticing  some  blacks  from  Monrovia,  who  were 
present,  and  seemed  to  take  some  interest  in  the  ceremonies. 
At  five  P.  M.,  just  at  the  close  of  dinner,  the  ship  some  seven 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  under  full  sail  and  heavy 
head  of  steam,  the  captain  on  the  bridge,  struck  a  sand-bar, 
jumped  twice,  and  we  rushed  on  deck  and  found  her  in  a  perilous 
condition.      We   got  out   hawsers  astern,  furled  all  sail,   and 


584  SHIPWRECK. 

worked  the  macliine  and  windlass  back,  to  haul  off,  but  without 
success.  Night  was  approaching,  and  the  breakers  increasing, 
the  ship  at  times  keeling  over,  and  then  jumping  as  if  the  masts 
would  come  out  of  her.  The  ports  and  skylights  of  cabin  closed, 
with  the  sea  bi'eaking  over  the  stern,  made  it  look  dreary  enough. 
Being  on  a  barbarous  coast,  where  no  white  man  lives,  the  pros- 
pects were  not  very  flattering.  The  boats  were  all  got  in  con- 
dition, with  buckets  for  bailing.  Rockets  were  sent  up  for  relief, 
hoping  they  might  be  seen  some  five  miles  up  from  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  where  lay  a  small  steamer,  used  as  a  tender,  and 
for  the  continuation  of  the  voyage  to  Fernando  Po.  Our  own 
steamer  being  at  the  end  of  her  line  in  the  Gulf  of  Guinea, 
usually  takes  in  her  coal  from  a  hulk  moored  in  the  stream, 
brushes  up,  and  waits  the  return  of  the  tender,  with  freight 
picked  up  in  the  Old  Calabar  and  Camaroon  rivers.  A  little 
time  after  the  accident  occurred,  one  of  our  passengers,  an  old 
sea  captain,  came  to  me,  and  said  softly,  "  K  you  have  anything 
valuable  which  you  wish  to  save,  you  had  better  get  it  out,  as  I 
would  not  give  fifty  pounds  for  the  vessel."  I  was  hurriedly 
packing  up  a  few  articles,  when  the  purser  came  to  me  and  said, 
"I  have  been  securing  the  ship's  papers  and  valuables,  and  I  would 
advise  your  taking  a  few  articles  in  your  valise,  as  we  may  have 
to  take  the  ship's  boats  outside  the  breakers,  and  wait  for  the 
tide."  You  can  imagine  we  passed  a  wretched  and  sleepless 
night.  The  engines  were  soon  choked  up  with  sand,  and 
all  began  to  think  the  ship  must  be  lost,  although  strongly 
built.  Morning  brought  us  more  quiet  weather.  We  sent 
the  second  mate  with  a  boat's  crew  up  the  river  for  relief. 
He  had  twelve  miles  to  make,  with  sails  and  oars.  At  midday 
the  little  steamer  came.  We  threw  overboard  coal,  and  palm 
oil  in  puncheons,  to  lighten  the  ship,  took  advantage  of  the 
wind,  steam,  &c.,  and  succeeded  in  forcing  her  over  the  sand- 
bars by  nightfall.  We  had  taken  refuge  on  board  of  the 
small  steamer,  in  the  distance,  as  she  could  not  approach  us 
for  the  shoals ;  and  I  got  off  with  a  portion  of  my  effects,  in 
wet  condition. 

The  Bonny  is  a  broad  and  navigable  river.  The  New  Calibar 
Eiver  comes  in  a  short  distance  from  this  place.  The  trade  of 
the  two  rivers  is  in  palm  oil.  Vessels  of  large  size  come  out 
from  England  with  a  variety  of  goods,  that  can  be  used  by  the 


CANNIBALISM.  585 

natives  in  the  interior,  such  as  waistcloths,  beads,  rum,  tobacco, 
guns,  powder,  &c. 

The  vessels  are  anchored,  sails  put  away,  the  ship  is  housed 
in,  with  peaked  roof,  covered  with  palm  leaf,  making  it  cool ; 
and  here  they  remain  for  two  years,  or  until  they  get  full.  They 
have  their  cooperage  on  board,  the  casks  being  brought  in 
shocks  [bundles  of  staves].  The  natives  come  alongside  in 
canoes,  with  the  oil  made  from  the  berry  of  the  palm  tree,  boiled 
and  skimmed,  and  enter  the  ship,  fitted  up  like  a  country  store 
for  barter  and  trade.  Some  want  brass  stair  rods  as  currency, 
which  treasure  can,  in  emergencies,  be  buried,  and  not  injured  by 
rust.  Some  want  a  portion  of  most  articles  named.  The  native 
chiefs  and  traders  buy  largely,  and  some  on  credit,  which  is  paid 
for  in  oil  in  quantities. 

The  small  currency  here  is  not  the  cowrie-shell,  but  small 
horseshoe-formed  brass  articles  called  manillas. 

At  this  enlightened  age  of  the  world  we  hear  so  little  of  can- 
nibalism, that  were  I  not  an  eye-witness,  I  also  should  be  doubt- 
ful. I  lauded  with  a  party  here  on  the  shore,  proceeded  through 
the  bush,  was  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  our  Kroomen  sailors, 
through  the  pools  of  water,  and  came  to  the  village  of  Bonny, 
composed  of  huts  of  reed,  plastered  with  mud,  covered  with 
palm  leaves,  without  any  attempt  at  ornament  or  architecture  in 
construction  on  lines  of  alleys  or  streets.  A  party  of  girls  and 
boys,  of  some  ten  3'ears  of  age,  whose  dress  consisted  of  a  string 
of  beads  about  the  loins,  and  with  long  poles  in  hand,  were  try- 
ing to  drive  out  a  "  guana"  [a  species  of  lizard]  into  the  marsh, 
and  he  persisted  in  not  going  voluntarily.  This  brute  was 
five  feet  in  length,  harmless,  and  one  of  their  fetisches  [idols]. 
They  would  punch  him  along,  and  turn  him  with  their  poles,  at 
which  he  would  bite,  but  they  dared  not  lay  hands  on  the  holy 
animal.  Woe  to  the  man  who  inadvertently  or  wilfully  kills 
one !  We  were  then  told  that  the  heads  of  the  two  prisoners 
who  were  killed,  and  whose  bodies  were  eaten  the  day  pre- 
vious, were  in  front  of  the  Joujou  House,  or  heathen  temple,  to 
which  we  repaired.  We  found  the  head  of  a  female,  some 
eighteen  years  of  age,  having  good  teeth  and  features,  but  little 
distorted,  notwithstanding  the  beheading  with  a  dull  axe.  The 
man  appeared  to  have  been  forty  years  of  age.  A  party  of  men 
were  dancing  like  wild  Indians  around  the  heads,  and  in  front 


586  FERNANDO   PO, 

of  the  mud  temple,  to  the  sounds  of  tom-toms,  or  kettle-drums, 
reed  flutes,  &c. ;  the  Joujou  men,  or  priests,  were  singing  mono- 
tonous and  discordant  songs.  The  heads  of  the  victims  began  to 
smell,  rendering  the  feast,  perhaps,  more  acceptable  to  the  priests' 
wives,  whose  privilege  it  is  to  have  soup  made  from  the  heads, 
after  which  the  wliitened  skulls  will  be  placed  upon  a  rude  plat- 
form, standing  in  front  of  the  temple,  which  now  contains  the 
craniums  and  bones  of  the  last  victims ;  and  these  ghastly  relics 
will  add  further  trophies  to  the  paved  floor  of  the  building,  whose 
walls  are  also  provided  with  scores  of  others.  I  have  often  gazed 
upon  the  beautiful  and  variegated  mosaic  floors  of  marble  in  the 
churches  of  Italy,  but  it  had  never  occurred  to  me  that  I  should 
ever  see  a  heathen  temple  with  a  mosaic  floor  of  the  skulls  and 
bones  of  prisoners  who  had  been  killed  and  eaten.  When 
I  reflected  upon  the  narrow  escape  we  liad  just  made  upon  this 
barbarous  coast,  within  a  few  miles  of  such  wretches,  who  might 
now  be  feasting  upon  our  remains,  if  thrown  helpless  in  their 
hands,  I  could  only  express  my  gratitude  to  heaven  for  my  pro- 
tection. 


CLXI. 

Mayumba,  South  Africa,  Ap7-il3,  1860. 
I  ABANDONED  the  good  stauuch  ship,  which  barely  escaped 
leaving  her  wreck  upon  the  bar.  I  there  found  a  little  steamer 
called  the  Rainbow,  which  formed  a  part  of  the  Niger  Expedi- 
tion, but  she  was  not  in  running  order  at  present.  I  came  down 
witli  the  Retriever,  a  small  steamer  acting  as  tender  for  the  old 
one  I  had  left,  and  we  proceeded  to  the  island  of  Fernando  Po, 
about  forty  miles  from  the  main  land,  after  getting  out  of  the 
Gulf  of  Gruinea.  The  island  is  fertile,  with  high  mountainous 
country,  and  is  very  gratifying  to  the  eye  after  the  monoto- 
nous scenery  already  passed  through.  It  is  occupied  by  a  dif- 
ferent race  of  negroes  from  those  of  the  African  coast,  called 
Boobies,  and  whose  habits  and  manner  are  milder  and  more 
harmless.  They  daub  their  bodies,  faces,  and  wool  with  red 
clay,  and  one  of  their  belles  squatted  on  the  ground  before  a 
small  mirror,  adorning  herself,  her  only  garment  being  a  strip 


A  TORNADO.  587 

of  a  handkerchief,  would  certainly  be  considered  a  droll  sight  in 
a  civilized  country.  They  differ  from  all  the  negro  races  of  the 
African  coast,  whose  reputation  for  chastity  is  not  remarkable. 
The  crime  of  adultery  is  punished  there  with  the  loss  of  the  right 
arm,  and  in  some  cases  is  enforced. 

Tornadoes  are  not  infrequent  in  the  Gulf  of  Guinea.  We 
experienced  one  on  our  way  down  from  Bonny.  I  was  awak- 
ened past  midnight  by  terrific  peals  of  thunder  and  forked 
lightning,  the  howling  of  the  winds,  and  the  cry  of  officers  upon 
deck.  Looking  out,  I  perceived  amid  the  vivid  flashes  of  light- 
ning, the  naked  stalwart  figures  of  the  Kroomen,  or  African 
sailors.  I  could  only  compare  the  reality  of  what  occurred  with 
the  faint  efforts  of  some  dark  and  wild  demoniacal  scene  upon 
the  stage.     Our  ship  did  her  duty,  and  we  came  out  safe. 

On  the  African  coast  one  sees  many  strange  phenomena.  One 
evening  the  whole  sea  seemed  a  sheet  of  phosphorescent  bright- 
ness, lighting  up  the  night,  so  that  one  could  almost  read.  The 
crest  of  the  waves  was  tinged  with  silvery  light,  and  the  vessel 
seemed  ploughing  through  quicksilver.  On  another  occasion, 
one  hundred  miles  from  land,  the  fine  dust  and  reddish  sand 
covered  the  deck,  the  wind  bringing  these  particles  from  the 
parched  and  burning  south. 

The  Spaniards  are  in  possession  of  the  island  of  Fernando  Po, 
for  the  second  time,  having  once  abandoned  it.  They  are  now 
attempting  the  re-occupation  of  the  country.  The  insidious 
fever  is  making  sad  work,  and  a  large  part  of  the  colonists  have 
already  died.  The  Governor's  family  is  on  board  of  a  war  ves- 
sel, and  will  go  back  to  Spain.  It  is  a  singular  fact  tliat  white 
females  cannot  live  there.  The  only  lady  is  the  wife  of  the 
English  Consul,,  who  suffers  much  from  ill  health.  Quinine  is 
the  most  valuable  article  here  as  an  antidote  and  cure  for  fever. 
One  of  our  commanders  paid  ninety  dollars  for  twenty-nine 
ounces.  When  I  arrived  at  Fernando  Po,  I  had  reached  the 
terminus  of  communication  by  English  steamers,  and  unless  I 
could  fall  in  with  some  man-of-war,  I  must  retrace  my  steps.  I 
fortunately  found  the  United  States  war  steamer  Mystic,  Capt. 
Leroy,  whose  brother  I  had  made  voyages  with  in  California  and 
Oregon,  and  his  first  Lieutenant,  Haxton,  whom  I  had  known 
intimately  years  since.  When  we  met  at  the  English  Consul's 
house,  they  expressed  their  great  surprise  at  meeting  one  whom 


688  PRINCESS   ISLAND. 

they  had  spoken  of  recently,  in  this  barbarous  part  of  the  world. 
My  desire  being  to  continue  down  to  St.  Paul  de  Loando,  and 
all  along  the  cruising  ground  of  the  American  squadron,  Capt. 
Leroy  kindly  offered  me  the  half  of  his  cabin. 

We  proceeded  to  Princess  Island,  one  of  the  group  of  several, 
including  Fernando  Po,  which  are  of  volcanic  origin.  There 
we  made  a  connexion  with  the  sloop-of-war  Portsmouth,  to  put 
on  board  three  officers  recently  from  the  United  States  by  the 
war  steamer  Mohican. 

We  paid  Capt.  Calhoun  and  his  ship  and  officers  a  visit.  They 
are  bound  to  Madeira,  to  communicate  with  the  flag  officer,  Com- 
modore Inman  of  the  Constellation.  A  day  spent  in  taking  in 
wood  and  water,  and  getting  supplies  of  chickens,  oranges, 
limes,  bananas,  alligator  pears,  and  other  fruits,  and  looking  at 
and  admiring  the  freaks  of  nature  in  the  formation  of  peaks, 
pyramids,  domes,  cones,  and  every  conceivable  feature  in 
scenery,  with  the  richest  and  most  exuberant  growth  of  tropical 
forests  and  fruits,  we  then  left  for  this  point,  to  meet  the  United 
States  steamer  Sumpter,  and  transfer  the  correspondence  for  the 
vessels  on  the  station  below.  The  discipline  and  order  on 
board  of  the  Mystic  are  of  a  high  character,  perfect  unity  and 
good  feeling  existing  between  officers  and  men,  which  is  so 
desirable,  especially  on  stations  so  much  exposed  and  so  remote. 
The  Sabbath  is  strictly  observed,  with  religious  exercises.  The 
health  of  those  on  board  of  the  ship  was  remarkably  good, 
which  is  much  to  say  on  this  fiery  coast,  with  upwards  of  one 
hundred  and  fifty  men. 

We  have  just  spoken  the  British  war  vessel  Archer.  This 
is  the  fourth  English  ship  cruising  for  slavers  that  we  have  met 
on  the  coast  thus  far.  We  expect  soon  to  see  the  Sumpter, 
when  I  shall  be  transferred  to  her,  to  proceed  down  to  the 
Congo  Kiver — a  great  point  for  the  shipping  of  slaves,  and 
from  thence  by  a  schooner  to  the  Portuguese  city  of  St.  Paul  de 
Loanda,  in  latitude  eight  deg.  south.  It  is  the  most  important 
settlement  of  the  coast  south  of  Sierra  Leone. 

We  have  now  crossed  the  equator,  and  proceed  south.  You 
can  imagine  the  heat,  as  this  is  the  height  of  summer.  Awnings, 
umbrellas,  fruits,  and  refreshing  drinks,  would  at  times  be 
abandoned  willingly  for  a  pound  of  ice.  The  African  station  is 
the  hardest  and  most  wearing  upon  the  constitution  of  our  naval 


PLUTO   AND   ORION.  589 

officers.  It  is  withering  and  weakening,  and  were  it  not  that 
they  are  almost  constantly  on  shipboard  it  would  make  sad 
work  with  them.  Those  of  the  men  who  are  imprudent  enough 
to  sleep  ashore  and  expose  themselves,  suffer  the  penalty  of 
fever.  The  crew  never  have  the  privilege  granted  in  these 
latitudes,  but  occasionally  a  sailor  on  shore  duty  gets  astray,  and 
has  to  suffer  the  consequences.  During  a  two  years'  cruise,  if 
a  vessel  goes  to  Saint  Helena  or  Madeira,  then  the  captain  avails 
himself  of  these  healthy  points  to  give  his  men,  in  rotation,  such 
hours  of  liberty  as  may  be  deemed  prudent. 

The  British  steamer  Pluto  captured,  not  long  since,  the 
American  bark  Orion,  with  seven  hundred  and  fifteen  slaves  on 
board,  composed  of  men,  women,  and  children ;  one  hundred 
and  fifty-two  had  died  on  the  passage,  as  she  started  with  eight 
hundred  and  seventy-one.  She  was  taken  to  St.  Helena,  and 
condemned — the  .  negroes  apprenticed  as  usual.  The  ofiicers 
having  hauled  down  their  colors  and  thrown  their  papers  over- 
board, would  have  escaped,  but  this  steamer  went  in  pursuit 
and  secured  the  officers,  and  sent  them  to  the  United  States ; 
whether  they  will  be  convicted  or  not,  remains  to  be  seen. 


CLXII. 

On  board  U.  S.  "War  Steamer  Sumpter,  St.  Paul  de  Loando, 
April  14,  1860. 

I  WAS  transferred  from  the  war  steamer  Mystic,  and  presented 
to  the  officers  of  the  Sumpter,  from  whom  I  have  received  the 
kindest  evidences  of  hospitality.  Captain  McDonough  offered 
me  his  table  and  cabin,  and  Lieutenant  Stewart,  and  his  brother 
officers,  of  the  wardroom  mess,  always  make  me  a  welcome 
guest.  A  tourist  is  scarcely- ever  found  on  this  benighted  coast, 
and  for  that  reason  I  am  well  treated.  It  is  only  when  I  find 
myself  out  of  the  way  of  all  civilized  lines  of  communication, 
that  I  am  willing  to  trouble  either  our  own  officers,  or  those  of 
foreign  governments ;  but  necessity  has  obliged  me  to  sail  under 
the  flags  of  several. 

We  met  the  British  war  steamer  Falmouth,  which  took  the 
American  brig  Jehosse,  and  afterwards  released  her,  the  captain 
abandoned   her,  as  I   wrote  you,  and   came  in   pursuit   of  an 


590  THE  GABOON. 

American  man-of-war.  Lieutenant  Stewart  came  on  board  to 
verify  the  certificates  which  Captain  Fitzroy  gave  Captain 
Vincent,  who  is  now  with  us.  He  and  his  officers  admitted 
their  signatures.  The  documents  will  be  sent  to  the  United 
States,  copies  having  already  been  forwarded  for  diplomatic 
action. 

We  met  the  sloop-of-war  Marion,  Captain  Brent,  and  passed  a 
few  hours  on  board  of  her,  as  pleasantly  as  circumstances  would 
permit,  after  the  disappointment  the  officers  had  experienced  in 
not  receiving  instructions  to  return  home  after  a  two  years 
cruise.  They  expected  confidently  such  orders  by  the  mail  we 
brought  down.  Fortunately  for  me,  instead  of  being  transferred 
to  a  small  schooner  at  the  Congo  Eiver  for  this  port,  the  Sumpter 
was  ordered  here  for  supplies  at  the  naval  station. 

At  the  Gaboon,  a  French  settlement,  they  have  their  bar- 
racoons  for  free  labor,  which  is  slavery  under  another  form,  and 
which  the  English  and  Americans  dare  not  interfere  with.  The 
negroes  are  enlisted  for  a  term  of  years,  under  the  payment  of  a 
certain  sum  for  service,  in  the  islands  of  Martinique  and  Guada- 
loupe.  They  are  shipped  legitimately,  and  not  packed  as  with 
slavers,  who  are  forced  to  watch  their  opportunity,  and  escape 
with  as  many  as  possible,  without  regard  to  breathing  space  or 
supplies  of  water.  The  negroes  shipped  are  either  slaves  already, 
or  pawned  for  debt,  and  made  to  say  they  are  willing — and  pro- 
bably escape  much  w^orse  bondage  than  they  would  in  their 
native  country.  They  certainly  do,  if  they  are  treated  as  our 
nearroes  in  the  southern  states. 

Our  ship  overhauled  recently  an  American  brig,  with  slave 
deck  laid ;  but  her  papers  were  in  order.  The  captain  at  first  sent 
a  lieutenant  and  men  on  board  of  her,  and  was  going  to  send  her 
to  the  United  States  as  a  prize,  no  doubt  being  entertained  of  the 
intention  of  running  off  a  cargo  ;  but  upon  reflection  and  advice, 
he  abandoned  the  project.  If  she  was  not  condemned  at  home, 
the  owners  would  come  upon  the  captain  for  all  the  damages,  and 
his  private  funds  would  be  taken  to  pay  for  it.  The  government 
does  not  assume  the  responsibility.  If  commanders  do  their  duty, 
they  must  put  their  property  out  of  their  hands,  and  have  nothing  to 
lose.  They  can  then  take  suspicious  vessels  and  send  them  to  the 
United  States — but  they  may  have  judgments  hanging  over  them 
all  their  lives.     It  is  an  undisputed  fact,  that  the  slave  trade  is 


THE   SLAVE   TRADE.  591 

carried  on  by  American  vessels  mostly,  and  to  the  shame  of  our 
northern  and  New  England  states,  whence  come  the  constant 
cries  against  the  South.  A  ship  which  I  once  made  a  passage  in  to 
Havre,  has  been  fitted  ont  as  a  whaler,  with  all  the  appliances, 
for  the  purpose,  without  doubt,  as  a  decoy,  and  instead  of  catch- 
ing the  black  whales,  they  intend  to  capture  another  kind  of 
animal  of  the  same  color.  Her  papers  are  all  in  order.  Captain 
Goudon,  of  the  new  war  steamer  Mohican,  whom  I  visited  on 
this  station,  boarded  her.  She  is  just  out  from  the  United 
States,  and  is  in  suspicious  waters,  where  there  are  no  whales- 
His  excuse  is,  they  wanted  some  fresh  water.  She  can  take  a 
thousand  negroes,  and  is  here  under  the  garb  of  a  whaler ;  but 
no  American  officer  dare  take  her  without  the  negroes  on  board, 
unless  he  is  made  liable  for  personal  damages.  The  whole 
thing  is  a  farce.  If  our  government  was  honest  in  the  suppres- 
sion of  the  slave  trade,  and  would  take  the  responsibility  of 
loss  in  case  of  failure  of  confiscation,  the  trade  would  soon  be 
lessened. 

"We  have  a  squadron  of  four  vessels  now  on  the  African  coast, 
and  three  are  ofl:'  active  duty.  The  flag  ship  is  at  Madeira,  the 
Portsmouth  has  just  started  for  that  place,  and  I  met  the  San 
Jacinto  at  Teneriflfe,  going  to  Cadiz  for  repairs. 

"We  are  expending  large  sums  to  keep  up  a  squadron  of  eighty 
guns,  according  to  the  Ashburton  Treaty,  and  are  hunting  up  the 
game  for  the  English  to  bag.  They  watch  and  wait,  and  have 
their  spies  ;  and  when  the  vessels  are  filled  they  seize  them.  The 
captain,  under  threat  of  being  handed  over  to  an  American  man- 
of-war,  and  tried  for  piracy,  makes  a  bargain  for  his  life  and  the 
lives  of  his  crew,  probably  saving  some  property,  hauls  down  his 
flag  and  throws  his  papers  overboard.  The  Englishman  gets  his 
bounty  money,  and  turns  over  the  negroes  for  colonists  for  seven 
years,  which  probably  often  means  life. 

The  bay  of  Loando  is  deep  and  tolerably  broad ;  the  water 
close  to  town  is  shallow  from  the  washing  of  the  high  clay  banks, 
which  extend  along  the  coast,  and  form  the  upper  town.  This 
is  the  oldest  settlement  (Portuguese)  along  the  coast,  and  I  notice 
some  old  dates,  of  the  year  1600.  The  slave  trade  built  it  up. 
The  Brazil  markets  were  supplied  from  here.  Some  fifty  thou- 
sand were  supplied  annually.  That  has  ceased,  and  the  town  and 
country  become  commercial.     The  soil  in  the  interior  is  fertile, 


592  LOANDO. 

and  produces  excellent  coffee,  wbicli  rivals  tlie  Mocha  in  quality. 
There  is  a  Governor-General,  a  custom-house,  police  and  military 
force.  The  lower  town  is  very  sandy  and  hot.  The  negro 
population  is  large.  Slavery  continues,  but  will  expire  by  limi- 
tation in  ten  years.  Fever  prevails  to  a  considerable  extent ;  the 
only  safeguard  is,  to  sleep  on  shipboard.  No  hotels  or  restau- 
rants are  to  be  found.  The  merchants  who  have  vessels  trading 
with  the  United  States,  Portugal,  and  other  countries,  have  as 
large  and  comfortable  houses  as  possible,  and  frequently  invite 
friends  to  their  table.  The  English  have  a  consul  and  adjudicator 
for  condemned  vessels. 

The  American  Consul  is  connected  with  a  business  firm  in 
Salem,  who  have  trading  vessels  and  factories  on  the  coast.  At 
Quecimbo,  a  bartering  point  along  shore,  we  found  four  fac- 
tories, or  bungalows,  English,  Dutch,  and  American.  They  are 
constructed  of  reed  and  palm,  large,  light,  and  airy,  inclosing 
courts  or  yards  by  picket- worked  fences,  and  there  they  are  with- 
out protection  from  the  natives,  other  than  a  few  firearms.  An 
important  event  occurred  there  a  few  days  before  our  visit.  A 
Congo  prince,  who  had  been  educated  in  Portugal,  wishing  to 
make  some  reform  in  the  negro  administration  of  matters,  was 
pursued,  and  took  refuge  in  the  English  factory.  He  was 
demanded  by  the  natives,  who  surrounded  the  establishment  in 
thousands.  Finding  that  the  building  would  be  sacrificed  and 
given  up  to  pillage,  he  gave  himself  up,  and  was  killed  within 
thirty  feet,  his  body  cut  in  pieces,  and  scattered  about.  We 
were  surrounded  by  a  group  of  these  black,  dirty,  and  naked 
subjects — two  were  called  princes,  but  the  only  distinction  was 
they  wore  a  sort  of  cap,  while  others  disdain  every  covering  but 
the  wool. 


CLXIII. 

On  board  Portuguese  Steamer  Estaphania, 
Province  of  Angola,  April  24,  1860. 

Being  so  far  down  on  the  southwest  coast  of  Africa,  my  full 

intention  had  been  to  proceed  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  if  b}^ 

any  possible  conveyance  I  could  get  there  ;  but  it  appears  I  have 

run  out  the  end  of  the  chain,  and  no  opportunity  offering,  I 


EXCESSIVE    HEAT.      '  593- 

must  get  back  by  the  best  possible  means.  This  steamer  is  ray- 
only  chance,  direct  to  Portugal,  and,  if  nothing  presents  itself,  I 
must  turn  my  face  again  towards  Europe,  with  the  prospect  of  a 
thirty-five  days'  passage,  touching  along  the  African  coast  at 
Ambriz  and  the  Island  of  San  Tome,  and  thence  up  to  the- 
Cape  de  Verdes. 

The  captain  of  the  English  gunboat  Lynx,  now  bound  to  the 
island  of  Ascension,  has  kindly  offered  to  take  me,  through  the- 
recommendation  of  the  English  consul,  but  the  chance  being  less. 
of  getting  away  from  there  I  declined. 

This  is  the  province  where  the  African  traveller,  Livingstone, 
came  out  when  he  returned  to  England.  The  captain  of  the 
Lynx  met  him  recently,  on  the  east  coast  of  Africa, 

The  colonial  government  here  is  in  trouble,  I  noticed  Portu- 
guese and  black  soldiers  going  on  board  of  a  brig  moored  near 
us.  The  negroes  rose  near  Ambriz  in  large  numbers,  attacked 
the  troops,  and  succeeded  in  killing  and  driving  into  the  river 
some  one  hundred  and  forty  men.  One  of  the  officers,  who 
dined  with  a  government  employe  where  I  was  invited  the  other 
day,  narrowly  escaped  with  his  life. 

The  heat  is  now  most  oppressive  and  overpowering.  We 
have  frequent  thunderstorms  with  vivid  lightning,  which  tends 
to  purify  the  atmosphere.  It  is  far  the  safest  to  sleep  on  ship- 
board, as  the  fever  is  prevailing  ashore, 

Maxillas  are  used  for  moving  about  the  town  of  Loanda,  as 
the  least  exertion  produces  violent  perspiration,  and  exposure 
to  the  sun  brings  disastrous  results.  The  mode  of  conveyance 
is  somewhat  like  the  palanquin  in  the  East  Indies,  but  not  so 
spacious  or  convenient.  You  are  carried  by  two  negroes,  instead 
of  four  or  six,  as  are  used  there.  Here  a  sort  of  sofa  bottom  of 
cane  work  is  suspended  by  cords  from  a  light  roof,  attached  to  a 
strong  pole,  resting  upon  the  shoulders  of  the  bearers,  A  cushion 
supports  the  back,  and  curtains  are  floating  on  each  side,  which 
keep  off  the  sun,  and  the  motion  produces  a  gentle  breeze.  In 
this  manner  you  make  your  visits  and  excursions  in  the  town 
and  suburbs. 

There  are  no  American  or  English  men-of-war  in  port.  We 
have  three  persons  on  board  waiting  for  a  passage ;  one  a  purser 
of  an  American  man-of-war  going  home  invalided ;  a  Portuguese 
from  Benguela  who  has  exposed  himself  and  got  the  fever ;  and 

38 


594  AFRICAN   COTTOlSr, 

myself,  afflicted  with  "Job's  comforters,"  wliich  keep  off  the 
same  disease.  Our  numbers  will  be  augmented  in  a  day 
or  two. 

The  English  are  making  great  efforts  to  introduce  the  culture 
of  cotton  in  Africa,  so  as  to  render  them  less  dependent  upon 
the  United  States.  I  heard  at  Acra,  on  the  Gold  Coast,  that  a 
few  bales  had  been  shipped  to  Liverpool.  In  Liberia  I  learned 
that  the  Manchester  Cotton  Association  had  sent  medals  and  fifty 
pounds  sterling  as  premiums,  for  the  encouragement  of  the 
growth  of  the  plant  in  that  district,  I  learned  also  at  Bonny 
that  two  bales,  purchased  at  Eabba  on  the  Niger,  had  been  brought 
down  by  the  Eainbow,  attached  to  the  Niger  expedition,  which 
is  the  first  from  that  country.  The  captain  reports  he  could  have 
filled  his  ship  with  uncleaned  cotton.  The  price  of  the  cleaned 
was  from  three  to  four  cents  per  pound,  our  currency,  uncleaned 
about  one  cent.  Another  report  said  one  hundred  and  fifteen 
pounds  of  cotton  in  the  seed  were  bought  for  five  and-a-half  yards 
of  cotton  velvet  and  eight  pounds  of  salt.  There  is  plenty  of 
raw  cotton,  and  gins  and  presses  are  all  that  is  required  to  pro- 
duce a  merchantable  article.  If  the  English  persevere  and  the 
natives  turn  their  attention  to  cotton,  there  is  no  calculating  what 
the  production  might  in  time  amount  to ;  but  there  is  this  satis- 
faction for  the  American  planter,  the  consumption  is  rapidly 
increasing,  and  there  is  not  much  fear  of  a  surplus  for  j^ears  to 
come.  The  culture  of  the  plant,  as  I  have  seen  it  in  Algeria  and 
the  East  Indies,  cannot  come  in  competition  with  the  negro  labor 
at  the  South ;  but  we  may  rest  assured  that  the  British  are  using 
every  means  possible  to  have  it  produced,  and  make  themselves 
less  subject  to  our  Southern  King  Cotton. 

I  must  say  something  of  a  peculiar  race  of  negroes  on  the 
African  coast,  who  seem  far  superior  to  their  fellows.  They  are 
the  Kroomen,  who  make  invaluable  sailors  for  men  of-war-and 
merchant  vessels,  and  indeed  are  indispensable  for  all  labor  on 
shipboard,  saving  the  white  mariners  from  service  and  consequent 
fever.  They  are  generally  large,  stalwart,  well-formed  men, 
obedient  and  industrious.  They  are  shipped  in  Monrovia 
by  vessels  of  war  for  the  cruise,  and  receive  from  five  to  eight 
dollars  per  month,  the  chief  as  mucb  as  twelve  dollars.  In 
Sierra  Leone,  merchant  vessels  procure  them  for  five  dollars  per 
month.     Many  of  them  understand  a  little  English,  and  they 


NEGRO   sailors'   NAMES.  595 

could  not  be  made  slaves  of  ^Yitllout  great  difficulty.  They 
rather  look  down  with  contempt  upon  common  negroes.  On 
shipboard  they  answer  to  the  call  of  the  roll.  Some  names 
given  them  are  so  ludicrous  one  can  scarcely  refrain  from  laugh- 
ing when  he  hears  them.  Some  bear  the  names  of  ships  upon 
which  they  have  sailed,  and  feel  highly  flattered  in  consequence, 
such  as  Constitution,  Congress,  Vincennes,  Dale,  &c.,  but  the 
others,  Up  Side  Down,  Tom  Bottle,  Sunbeam,  Main  Mast,  Main 
Hatch,  Joe  Propeller,  Inside  Oat,  Tar  Bucket,  Ash  Bucket,  Last 
One,  Nothing  New,  and  so  on,  display  the  extraordinary  nomen- 
clature conceived  by  the  Jack  Tars.  When  on  duty  ashore  from 
men-of-war  they  wear  blue  woollen  shirts  and  pants,  but  always 
on  shipboard  they  have  the  privilege  of  the  native  waistcloth. 
They  choose  their  chief,  who  is  at  the  head  of  the  gang,  and 
whom  they  obey  most  rigidly.  The  Marion  will  land  sixty  or 
more  at  Monrovia  before  she  leaves  the  coast  for  the  United 
States,  being  the  complement  of  two  vessels.  They  save  their 
money  to  increase  the  number  of  their  wives. 

The  process  of  coaling  here  is  of  the  slowest  kind,  and  that  of 
ballasting  ships  the  same.  The  distance  from  the  shore  is  con- 
siderable, and  the  manner  of  doing  things  is,  as  the  Portuguese 
language  describes  it,  poco-a-poco,  little  by  little.  The  coal  or 
ballast  is  put  in  at  the  rate  of  thirty-six  tons  per  day,  with 
baskets  like  good-sized  soup  dishes,  passed  from  hand  to  hand, 
not  unlike  the  old-fashioned  system  of  handing  buckets  at  a  fire. 

No  freight  of  consequence  is  offering,  as  the  disturbance  in  the 
country  has  checked  the  movement.  Ordinarily  elejohants' 
tusks,  palm  oil,  gum,  coffee,  etc.,  are  coming  forward. 

We  are  now  in  the  height  of  midsummer,  with  the  thermome- 
ter over  a  hundred.  There  is  no  such  thing  as  restraining  per- 
spiration, except  by  the  fever.  What  would  one  give  for  a  cool- 
ing draught  of  ice  water,  and  the  other  luxuries  and  comforts  of 
a  northern  clime,  which  are  not  obtainable  even  at  an  advance 
of  two  hundred  or  three  hundred  per  cent.  We  are  looking  for- 
ward to  our  deliverance  from  this  heated  atmosphere  in  a  few 
days  at  least,  and  to  be  under  motion,  when  some  circulation 
will  be  produced. 

The  slow,  backward  Portuguese  colony  even  requires  strangers, 
as  well  as  its  own  citizens,  on  leaving  it  to  procure  a  passport, 
with  all  the  formalities  attending  the  same,  at  an  expense  of  five 


596  SAN  TOME, 

dollars,  witbout  recognising  tbe  passport  of  one's  own  country. 
This  may  be  in  part  caused  from  apprehension  of  the  escape  of 
felons  and  soldiers,  who  are  sent  to  this  convict  colony  to  expiate 
their  crimes.  I  should  think  no  worse  punishment  could  be 
inflicted  than  a  residence  in  such  a  climate. 


CLXIV. 


Island  op  San  Miguel,  Azores,  June  8,  1860. 

In  my  last  I  informed  you  that  I  was  on  the  eve  of  leaving 
the  Portuguese  province  of  Angola,  on  the  southwest  of  Africa. 
I  expected  to  reach  the  Cape  de  Verde  Island  in  time  to  catch  the 
English  steamer  for  Lisbon,  but  arrived  two  days  too  late. 

We  stopped  at  the  town  of  Ambriz,  in  the  Congo  territory, 
now  the  seat  of  war  between  the  Portuguese  and  the  blacks,  and 
found  the  residents  in  great  consternation  from  the  recent  suc- 
cesses of  the  negroes.  A  war  vessel  had  just  arrived  with  fresh 
troops. 

AVe  then  proceeded  to  the  island  of  San  Tome,  one  of  the 
volcanic  group  consisting  of  that,  Prince's  and  Fernando  Po, 
which  for  fertility,  magnificent  mountain  scenery,  and  beautiful 
tropical  forests  can  scarcely  be  surpassed,  producing  the  choicest 
coffee  and  fruits  in  abundance,  but  occupied  mostly  by  the  dark 
race,  with  small  numbers  of  Portuguese  colonists,  the  former 
indolent  as  usual  unless  force  is  exercised,  and  the  latter  lethargic 
from  the  oppressive  heat  and  afflicted  with  fevers — otherwise, 
these  islands  might  be  considered  perfect  gems  of  the  ocean. 

On  the  ninth  day  we  left  San  Tome  for  Porto  Praya,  Cape  de 
Yerdes.  Our  complement  of  passengers  had  now  reached  fifteen, 
including  one  white  lady.  Our  ship  reminded  me  of  Noah's  ark, 
as  we  had  such  a  variety  of  animals  and  birds  on  board,  either  as 
supplies,  or  belonging  to  passengers  bound  to  Portugal  and  carry- 
ing specimens  of  the  brute  creation  occupying  the  countries  they 
came  from,  not  forgetting  a  few  negro  boys  and  girls,  from  six 
to  seven  years  old,  as  presents  to  friends,  which  seem  to  be  classed 
in  the  same  category,  as  they  cost  from  ten  dollars  to  fifteen 
dollars  each.  For  a  voyage  of  twenty  to  thirty  days  in  a  large 
screw  steamer  of  only  fifty  horse  power,  relying  upon  wind  as 
well  as  steam,  the  auxiliary  force  being  only  four  or  five  miles 


A  FLOATING   MENAGERIE.  597 

per  hour,  it  was  necessary  to  provide  abundantly,  and  we  had 
oxen,  sheep,  goats,  chickens,  turkeys  and  guinea  fowls.  The 
rigging  and  chain  about  the  boats  suspended  on  the  sides  were 
hung  with  green  bananas  to  ripen,  and  vegeta,bles  of  different 
kinds.  A  full  supply  of  limes,  oranges,  and  other  tropical  fruit 
was  also  laid  in.  A  part  of  our  upper  deck  or  promenade  was 
monopolized  with  bird  cages  containing  hundreds  of  every  color 
and  variety.  The  main  deck  had  its  share  of  baboons,  gazelles, 
monkeys,  and  parrots.  It  was  a  menagerie  in  itself,  and  it 
required  at  first  strong  nerves  to  accustom  one's  self  to  the  chat- 
tering, chirping,  singing,  and  other  vocal  sounds  of  such  a  mixed 
tribe.  Little  by  little  they,  like  passengers  at  the  outset  of  a 
voyage,  got  quieted  down,  and  were  rather  a  source  of  amuse- 
ment than  an  annoyance. 

I  was  fortunate  in  obtaining  a  large  and  airy  cabin,  or  state- 
room, to  myself,  which  made  the  long  passage  more  supportable, 
as  most  of  our  passengers  were  suffering  from  debility  on  account 
of  the  climate,  or  from  the  effects  of  fever.  I  was  still  a  martyr 
to  the  African  boils,  but  recovered  from  them  as  soon  as  we 
reached  cooler  latitudes.  One  of  our  passengers,  whom  we  took 
in  at  San  Tome,  died  before  reaching  here,  and  his  remains 
were  thrown  overboard.  It  was  the  result  of  prostration  caused 
by  long  residence  in  an  enervating  climate. 

Our  supplies  of  all  kinds  were  abundant,  but  a  bad  Portu- 
guese cook  was  a  source  of  vexation  to  all ;  for  in  no  position  is ' 
the  exercise  of  the  culinary  art  more  desirable  than  on  ship- 
board, where  travellers  are  deprived  of  their  usual  exercise,  and 
the  stomach  and  digestive  organs  are  most  sensitive. 

Our  passage  to  Porto  Praya,  one  of  the  Cape  de  Verdes,  was 
a  fair  one,  say  nineteen  days,  but  a  delay  of  five  days,  taking  in 
coffee  and  sugar,  caused  me  the  loss  of  the  Enghsh  steamer, 
which  would  have  taken  me  direct  to  Portugal  in  seven  days. 
The  disappointment  was  great,  as  the  strong  trade  winds  from 
the  north-east  were  blowing,  making  a  prospect  of  another 
twenty  days'  sailing ;  it  must  be  submitted  to,  however,  as  in 
these  parts  of  the  world  we  cannot  choose  our  conveyance  and 
embark  when  we  please,  as  in  the  United  States. 

Porto  Praya  has  hitherto  been  the  naval  station  for  the  Ameri- 
can cruisers ;  and  although  a  small  town,  situated  upon  a  high, 
arid  bluff,  with  bleak  and  dreary  mountains  in  the  background, 


598  THE  AZORES. 

it  has  its  redeeming  qualities  in  fruitful  palm,  banana,  and  coffee 
groves  in  the  valleys,  which  induced  the  American  officers,  after 
a  long  cruise  in  the  scorching  climate  of  the  coast,  to  call  it  the 
paradise  of  the   African   station. 

Porto  Grande,  or  St.  Yincent,  our  next  island,  possesses  an 
excellent  harbor,  of  great  size.  Here  we  found  a  steamer  coal- 
ing for  China,  and  another  for  Java.  The  English  have  large 
coal  yards  here,  and  the  iron  launches  and  little  tug  steamers 
give  every  dispatch,  quite  like  England.  The  contrast  between 
the  energy  of  the  races  could  be  seen  at  a  glance. 

As  I  apprehended,  the  strong  head  winds,  which  we  could  not 
resist,  have  carried  us  to  the  west,  and  we  found  ourselves  short 
of  coal,  and  our  supplie?  o  much  reduced  that  we  made  for  the 
Azores.  It  is,  however,  worth  the  delay  of  a  few  days  to  visit 
this  beautiful  and  highly  cultivated  island.  Its  population  is 
dense,  and  exceedingly  industrious.  The  town  of  Punta  Del- 
gada  contains  twelve  thousand  inhabitants,  is  well  built  of  stone, 
its  streets  well  paved,  is  favorably  situated  in  a  rainy  latitude, 
and  produces  most  exuberantly.  The  exportation  of  oranges  to 
England  keeps  a  large  number  of  vessels  employed  during  the 
fruit  season.  The  Quintas,  or  estates  of  the  nobility  which  I 
have  visited,  are  magnificent,  and  would  not  disgrace  the  parks 
and  gardens  of  some  of  the  small  princes  of  Europe.  The 
immense  variety  of  flowers  in  bloom,  the  fountains  of  water, 
•the  close  cultivation  to  the  very  summit  of  the  hills  upon  this 
isolated  spot,  and  the  general  amount  of  production  rather  took 
us  b}^  surprise,  jDarticularly  as  our  last  port,  St.  Vincent,  was 
entirely  barren,  with  scarcely  a  sign  of  vegetation ;  and  the 
time  before,  when  we  touched  there  on  our  way  to  Brazil,  some 
years  since,  we  landed  famine  supplies,  as  half  the  population 
had  died  from  starvation. 

Our  prospects  now  are  for  an  early  arrival  in  Lisbon,  and  I 
hope  in  the  course  of  five  or  six  days  to  be  in  direct  correspond- 
ence with  Europe  and  America,  and  shall  rejoice  in  having 
accomplished  a  long  and  perilous  African  trip,  without  any 
desire  to  repeat  the  same. 


THE  END. 


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Connecticut 

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